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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
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31 October 2005
The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
I only know "Robert40" (his username) virtually, but I owe him a
debt of gratitude. It was on Tuesday that he posted at a food forum
we frequent, asking "Who is Peter Jacobsen?" He'd done some
research, and in Googling,
had produced a list of dishes at French Laundry, which you
may
or may not know is generally regarded at one of the best
restaurants in the world. You may or may not know that Thomas
Keller, the chef, is the subject of one of my favorite food-themed
books ever, The Soul of a Chef, written by Michael
Ruhlman, who is (not surprisingly) one of my favorite
writers.
(Certain foodies will know Ruhlman to be a buddy of another
favorite writer, Anthony Bourdain, whose Dr. Jekyll and Mister Foul
Mouth make me certain he's got a heavy Gemini influence in his
birth chart.) Ruhlman's work with Keller resulted in their
collaboration on The French Laundry Cookbook, famed for its
labor-intensive devotion to producing dishes with incredible
flavors.
Like Manresa in Los Gatos, when you go to French Laundry, you
are advised to do the chef's tasting. Thomas Keller is devoted to
bringing forth the essence of his ingredients, and to bold and
flavor combinations, and he is famed for his resourcefulness in
finding the best purveyors of the ingredients he seeks.
If you know of the reputation of French
I Heart Farms
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
Laundry, you might also know how expensive it is to eat there—I
don't assume that my readers do or don't know. A prix fixe menu
before tax, tip, and wine, is $175. And every single
person I know who's eaten there says it's worth it. I have not
been yet.
Armed with a smattering of information about Peter Jacobsen, I
found a connection and an e-mail address. I sent forth a query,
with links to this blog, saying:
"I wonder if you might allow me to visit and photograph your
property.
"I can assure you of several things: 1) I only take pictures
that show the beauty of what you are doing and growing; I don't
take or post ugly photographs; 2) I am not on any kind of mission
to obtain state secrets from you; I have a black thumb and all
arcane knowledge and practices are completely lost on me; 3) My
mission in life is to turn people on to small farms. I want anyone
who sees my work to say, "Where's my pretty farm? Where's my pretty
farmer?"
"Please check out my blog and see what I do.
"Also, I often travel with our little grandson, Logan. I try to
bring him to farms with me, because it's a good influence on him. I
can further assure you that he's just a delightful and happy little
toddler, and he generally charms the pants off anyone who meets
him. If WE might be allowed to visit you, that would be
wonderful."
And lo and behold, Dr. Jacobsen (he's a dentist) invited me to
the farm for the upcoming weekend. I got so giddy when I got his
e-mail the following morning that my stomach felt squeaky. The
stars lined up yesterday, and so I headed up to Napa Valley with
Cynthia Geske, tomato grower extraordinaire, and little Logan in
her back seat. Several playings of a Raffi CD later, and we
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
pulled into the driveway of Jacobsen Orchards, as it is
designated for CCOF. Peter had "warned" me: "the farm isn't very
beautiful this time of year with the leaves falling and such," but
he was mistaken.
Napa Valley enjoys the kind of autumn foliage that we on the
central coast do not. The trees were turning gold and orange:
fallen peach leaves formed perfect circles under the boughs. Ripe
persimmons and quince added more
gold and orange, and the perfect blue sky, dotted with a few
puffy clouds, made the colors brilliant. Peter came out under the
arbor to greet us: a tall and handsome man with salt-and-pepper
hair and beautiful, twinkling eyes. We were made welcome instantly,
and Logan led the way, so excited to be out of his carseat was he.
He made a beeline for one of the tractors, and danced around the
work shed near our car.
Robert40 had produced a list of items found on various food
blogs and elsewhere, all things grown by Peter and Gwen Jacobsen:
Green Gage Plums Pole Beans Blackberries Spring Garlic Figs Red
Haven Peaches Swiss Chard Flowering Quince Mint Clear Almonds
Pecans Pumpkins Wonderberries Summer Squash Cardoons Ratte
Potatoes
We saw many of these things, though the season for some had
passed. The predominant visual was the persimmon trees, which were
laden with brilliant fruits and leaves.
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
(Pictured at right, the biggest persimmon I've ever seen...and
remember that Peter is a tall man with big hands.)
Yet because of the mild weather, Logan managed to locate a
handful of blackberries on bushes that were dotted with shriveled,
dry berry skeletons. These he smeared into his little mouth: he got
dirtier yesterday than I've ever seen him. This is a happy
thing.
We started at the driveway, which is located at six o'clock on
the property, and worked our way clockwise around. Though the farm
is a mere 1.3 acres, it feels bigger because it's so diverse. The
orchard is ringed with vegetable and
herb beds; at this time of year, Peter anticipates putting in
cover crops over a number of beds. Meanwhile, chard, Savoy cabbage,
Napa cabbage, cardoons, green garlic, a few tomatoes (he grows only
five kinds, including Early Girls and Sun Golds), and other
vegetables are thriving.
For the last six years, the Jacobsens have sold exclusively to
French Laundry, essentially only for the French Laundry chefs. They
arrive daily, pick what they want for the day's menu, look to see
what is perfectly ripe so they can plan for the next day, and then
head back to the restaurant nearby. We did not see them during our
two-hour visit, but I do plan to return and meet them.
Because the only visitors to the farm are chefs and food
writers, this farm tour was far and away the most educational for
me. Peter has a well-educated palate, and he is able to speak about
the distinct flavors of each thing he picked. We tasted crosnes
(pronounced "crones"), also known as "knotroot," which I never knew
about. Cynthia and I were both willing to taste them straight out
of the ground: what's a little dirt? They were delicous, not unlike
kohlrabi, and even more delicious when washed off. (Pity the poor
commis at French Laundry, whose job it is to peel these intricate
shapes before they're cooked.)
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
We slowly worked our way around the perimeter of the farm:
stopping to taste everything Peter picked...red peppers and golden
ones, arugula and sunchokes. Being something akin to a
'supertaster" is no picnic for me sometimes: the arugula
burned
a little. Peter, too, had his own preferences, citing "texture
issues" when peeling a Hachiya persimmon.
He didn't think I would enjoy eating the raw stalk of a cardoon,
fearing it would be too bitter, but I enjoyed it, as did Logan, who
gnawed on a stalk until he found the berries. The flavor was
somewhere between an artichoke and celery; I'd love to grow some in
our garden next year. The cardoon is a stunning plant visually,
much like an artichoke with its spiny, grey-green leaves. (See
picture above at left.)
Then we came to the figs, and I can only say that I was stunned.
Cynthia, too. Figs in general are a little too sweet for me, but
I'd never had a Panache, a Celestial, or a Violette de Bordeaux fig
before. The Violette de
Bordeaux, pictured here, is ripe when its stem looks like its
neck is broken, and the fruit is plump and dark. Some bites hinted
at the possibility of being fermented, but I am certain they were
not past their prime. They just tasted incredibly ripe.
(I regret not having taken more notes, but having a camera in
one hand and a toddler in the other often preclude whipping out my
Moleskine notebook.)
When she tasted these figs, Cynthia said, "I almost, almost,
uttered the phrase, 'This is better than chocolate,' but I stopped
myself." In Cynthia's world, that would be blasphemy.
Likewise, the contrast in flavor with the Panache figs was
marked. They are lighter, sweeter, and fruitier,
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
somehow. The Violette de Bordeaux were like Sophia Loren, the
Panaches more like Meryl Streep.
And so it happened that two new fig devotees were born: wander
into a fig orchard in October and see what happens to you.
Next we came to the prunes, of which I only got a smidgen. Peter
advised being open to the flavor: I'm sure prune prejudice abounds
in the culinary world. Having experienced the miracles of what a
great chef can do paying
homage to classic flavors, I brought all my awareness to the
flavors filling my mouth as I bit into the gooey fleshed fruit. I
could taste all its sweetness, and at the same time, the earthy and
smoky residual flavor from the skin, which left almost a chocolate
feeling in my throat. I could imagine all kinds of wonderful things
to do with this flavor and texture. It made me feel dreamy, like a
sip of wine.
We came to the persimmons then, back where we started. I have
never been a fan, having "texture issues," myself: I find the
grainy texture repellent. But we had both a Fuyu (the crisper
variety) and a Hachiya, pictured here, and both were just fabulous.
Who knew? (For persimmon fans: try Bob's technique. He freezes
them, then grates them, so they're a bit like a sorbet.)
We tasted fennel and smelled Kaffir Lime. We saw pumpkins being
saved for seed selection. And then we meandered to the next yard
over.
Adjoining the Jacobsens' property is land belonging to Darci and
Doug H., neighbors who let Peter "sharecrop" their land. There we
encountered three different kinds of apples: the Black Arkansas (I
didn't get a
picture, as now I was holding a baby and an apple) may have just
shot to the top of the charts. I do not like mealy apples. I like
an
apple to bite back. The Black Arkansas had both firm flesh
and
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
intense flavor, and now I need to know where I can get more.
Our next discovery was the wonderberry, a member of the deadly
nightshade whose relatives include tomatoes, eggplants, tomatillos,
hot peppers, and Brugmansia (angel's trumpet, a.k.a. datura). The
berries have a very unusual flavor. It was neither currant nor
blueberry, but somewhere in between, to me.
Logan, of course, is all about the berry, and Peter had to lead
him away, being that nightshades and toddlers are something with
which we exercise caution.
We also saw the new delivery of grape pomace, gleaned from the
crush earlier this season. The smell was indescribable: somewhere
between incense and grappa and fruit and wood. Cynthia persuaded me
to photograph
it. I thought it was beautiful, too.
Though we feared we were intruding on his valuable time, Peter
insisted on taking to visit his neighbor, Amy G., whose tomatoes
and stone fruits went to Dean and Deluca. She and Cynthia went off
together in a pink cloud of girly tomato sparkles while I was
singing Logan to sleep. Dr. Jacobsen then carried Logan for about a
half an hour while I took a few more photos. (I am reluctant to
publish Amy's last name, as she might be listed in the public
directory.)
As the beautiful October light set over Amy's gardens, we headed
back to Cynthia's car with Logan still asleep. It was just an
amazing afternoon, in every regard, and I felt so honored and happy
and touched by the whole experience.
We'll be returning--Cynthia forgot to bring tomatoes!
. . . . . . . . . . .
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
We had two more stops in Napa Valley: Dean and Deluca for lunch,
and then an hour in the gardens at Copia, where their tomatoes are
like the Playmates at the Playboy Mansion. (I'm convinced they
mulch with twenty-dollar bills, personally.) But all that can wait
for another blog entry.
This one is solely for Peter Jacobsen, with gratitude for the
education, the joy, and for the kindness to us, especially to
Logan.
A note: the location of the property is not public, as the
Jacobsens do not need or seek publicity. I call him a "secret
farmer" to respect the privacy that he prefers to maintain. Casual
visits are not available.
You can read a little more about French Laundry and its
purveyors in this article in The Wine News, from the summer of
2000.
You can see more photographs, with minimal captions, of Jacobsen
Orchard here.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY: "The whole secret of life is to be
interested in one thing profoundly and in a thousand things well."
—Horace Walpole
Thanks for visiting. (And thanks, Peter, for letting us
visit.)
31 October 2005 in Farm Visits, Farms & Farmers, Favorite
Posts, Food and Drink, My work, Travel | Permalink
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
Sounds like you had a lovely day at Jacobsen Farm. Brilliant
photos, as always. I can't believe he said the farm isn't looking
"very beautiful" now - what must it look like when he thinks it's
looking good? Those crosnes sure look interesting, and I'd love to
have tasted the figs! Ahhh, it must be good to be Thomas
Keller!
Posted by: Brett | 31 October 2005 at 09:36 AM
Tana, I never doubted for a moment you were the only one who
could do this extraordinary farm the justice it deserves with your
beautiful photos and wonderful written description.
Dr Peter Jacobsen, Your attention to detail and passion for your
craft is without a doubt comparable to Chef Keller's himself. Thank
you for allowing Tana a glimpse of your amazing farm and letting
her share it with us all. Inspiring story is a understatement.
Robert Rymarz AKA Robert40
Posted by: Robert R. | 31 October 2005 at 10:45 AM
What an exquisite way to spend a day. I think I'd rather visit
the farm than the restaurant. Thanks for letting us see the place
through your lens. G.
Posted by: Greg | 31 October 2005 at 05:18 PM
The visit was delightful, Peter was wonderful, the persimmons
were fabulous. My favorite photo you didn't post, Tana, the
persimmons hanging from the arbor! Everyone needs to go take a look
at the rest of the photos. Really special. And now that I've had my
chocolate, I would REALLY like to have that fig, since I can get
chocolate any old place, but a fig like THAT one....priceless!
Posted by: cynthia | 31 October 2005 at 09:37 PM
Thank you, Brett and Greg, for seeing what I see.
Cynthia, I will add some photos to the "Beautiful Farms"
gallery,
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
okay? And will include the hanging persimmons one.
Thanks for stopping in, all of you.
Posted by: Tana | 01 November 2005 at 10:37 AM
What a wonderful set of re-experiences.
I'd like to re-try figs and persimmons, having has
sweetness/texture issues with both previously. I really like the
grated frozen fruit trick.
Posted by: McAuliflower | 01 November 2005 at 01:06 PM
I'm still trying to scrape my jaw up off the carpet. I'm agape.
Stunning! ("Texture issues." Hah!)
Posted by: cookiecrumb | 01 November 2005 at 03:47 PM
Beautiful photo of a ripe Hachiya, it's rare to see them so.
And the frozen trick is an interesting one because "freezing" is
a way of "cooking" and so this helps with speeding up the ripening
process as well as creating a gorgeous delicious texture.
Thank you for being on this mission to visit farms, it's a
passion of mine and I feel priviledged to have so many amazing
farmers in my life.
Posted by: shuna fish | 07 November 2005 at 02:22 PM
An inspiring post...I'm so hungry now!
Posted by: stephen | 08 November 2005 at 03:49 PM
If you want more fig experience, I have about 250 varieties in
San Diego.
Posted by: Jon Verdick | 04 December 2006 at 07:31 PM
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
Small farms on the web
● Two Small Farms
● Happy Boy Farms
● Live Earth Farm
● New Natives
● Mariquita Farm
● Olio del Le Colline di Santa Cruz
● Claravale Farm
● Harley Farms Goat Dairy
● Frog Hollow Farm
● PL Bar Ranch
● Swanton Berry Farm
● Bobolink Dairy
● Love Apple Farm
● Ranch 101: Hens, ducks, geese and sheep. Nice folks.
● Old Shaw Farm: South Peacham, Vermont
● Dirty Girl Produce Flog
● Star Route Farms
● Fertile Crescent Farms: Columbia, Missouri, CSA farmer
has a blog, too.
● Anjali Farms: Londonderry, Vermont
● Apifera Farm
● Honest Farm: Kentucky
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
My links
● Local Harvest: #1 most recommended link
● Dr. John Ikerd: please read some of his wonderful
papers about small farms
● Agriculture Resources: a vast blog
● CASFS - UCSC Farm & Garden Program
● CASFS Apprentice Blog & Forum
● Community Alliance with Family Farmers
● Community Alliance with Family Farmers (CAFF)
● CUESA : Center for Urban Education about Sustainable
Agriculture
● EdibleCommunities.com: it doesn't get better than this.
● FoodRoutes - Where Does Your Food Come From?
● GastroGear: Because cooking naked hurts.
● George Monbiot: A brilliant thinker, an amazing life
http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2005/10/the_chefs_farme.html
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http://www.localharvest.org/http://www.ssu.missouri.edu/faculty/jikerd/papers/default.htm#Newhttp://www.ssu.missouri.edu/faculty/jikerd/papers/default.htm#Newhttp://agricultureresources.blogspot.com/http://casfs.ucsc.edu/http://casfs.blogspot.com/http://caff.org/http://www.caff.org/http://www.cuesa.org/http://www.cuesa.org/http://www.ediblecommunities.com/http://www.foodroutes.org/http://www.gastrogear.com/http://www.monbiot.com/archives/2000/06/09/about-george-monbiot/
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
● George Monbiot: Small is Vulnerable (start here)
● GetShirty.net : My irreverent designs to wear and use.
● Harold McGee's blog
● Honest Meat: Ruminate on This
● Leite's Culinaria: Food Writing, Recipe Collections, and
Cooking Resources
● Michael Ruhlman's blog
● Photoblogs.org: I support better photography on blog
sites.
● Readerville. The social life of the mind.
● The Association for Living History, Farm and
Agricultural Museums
● The NEW FARM: "Farmer to farmer know-how from the
Rodale Institute"
● The Web Geisha: Tana's online portfolio
● U.S. Food Policy: a blog
Chefs & Farms: A Map of Sustainable Eating
● Chefs & Farms Map
Categories
Awards Blended family stuff Books Chefs and Restaurants
Current Affairs Eat Local Challenge Farm Visits Farmers markets
Farms & Farmers Favorite Posts Film Food and Drink Guest
Authors Humor Logan Music My work Out on the Internet Politics of
Hope Rants Recipes
Recommendations Reflections Religion Science Television
Transformation Travel Ways to Give to the Farming
Community Weblogs
Recent Posts
● "Grow a Farmer" Summer Soirée: Downtown Santa Cruz,
June 24
● Where I've Been Since April 8 (Part 1)
● "Grow a Farmer" Campaign? Food Bloggers, C'mon
Down!
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http://www.monbiot.com/archives/2000/11/01/small-is-vulnerable/http://www.getshirty.net/http://curiouscook.blogspot.com/http://www.honestmeat.com/http://www.leitesculinaria.com/http://www.leitesculinaria.com/http://blog.ruhlman.com/http://www.photoblogs.org/http://www.photoblogs.org/http://www.readerville.com/http://www.alhfam.org/http://www.alhfam.org/http://www.newfarm.org/http://www.newfarm.org/http://www.tanabutler.com/http://usfoodpolicy.blogspot.com/http://www.platial.com/tanabutler/map/1868#Chefs_&_farmshttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/archives.htmlhttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/awards/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/blended_family_stuff/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/books/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/chefs_and_restaurants/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/current_affairs/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/eat_local_challenge/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/farm_visits/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/farmers_markets/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/farms_farmers/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/favorite_posts/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/film/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/food_and_drink/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/guest_authors/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/guest_authors/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/humor/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/logan/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/music/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/my_work/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/out_on_the_internet/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/out_on_the_internet/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/politics_of_hope/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/rants/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/recipes/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/recommendations/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/reflections/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/religion/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/science/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/television/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/transformation/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/travel/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/ways_to_give_to_the_farming_community/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/ways_to_give_to_the_farming_community/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/weblogs/http://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2009/06/grow-a-farmer-summer-soir%C3%A9e-downtown-santa-cruz-june-24.htmlhttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2009/06/grow-a-farmer-summer-soir%C3%A9e-downtown-santa-cruz-june-24.htmlhttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2009/06/where-ive-been-since-april-8-part-1.htmlhttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2009/04/grow-a-farmer-campaign-food-bloggers-cmon-down.htmlhttp://www.iheartfarms.com/small_farms/2009/04/grow-a-farmer-campaign-food-bloggers-cmon-down.html
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
● Typepad = NOT GOOD RIGHT NOW
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● Hi, Dan Barber!
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I Heart Farms: The Chef's Farmer: Peter Jacobsen
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