How to Make New Orgone Devices
A Brief History of Orgone Research
In the 1930's and 1940's, Dr. Wilhelm Reich was able to detect
and measure the existence of etheric energy (life energy, chi,
etc.), which he called orgone, using a modified geiger counter.
Dr. Reich determined that stacking alternating layers of
fiberglass (an organic substance) and steel wool (an inorganic
substance) would actually attract and collect orgone/etheric energy
of both the life-beneficial positive form (which Reich called "OR"
or "POR") and harmful negative etheric energy ("deadly orgone" or
"DOR").
He constructed large boxes called orgone accumulators or "oracs"
using this simple layering principle and was able to successfully
heal his patients of various ailments, including various forms of
cancer, by having them sit inside the box for periods of time.
In 1986, scientists at the University of Marburg, Germany
published the results of a blind study1 which showed that 30-minute
orgone accumulator treatments caused consistent, positive
psycho-physiological effects not seen with the all-fiberglass box
used for a control, stating "the results received in our
investigation furnish evidence for the assumption that the physical
properties of the orgone accumulator and its psychophysiological
efficacy on human organisms, postulated by Reich and his
associates, factually exist."
Reich's work was continued in earnest in the 1960's by more
open-minded Russian scientists such as Dr. Nikolai Kozyrev
(1908-1983), who also scientifically proved that such unseen
energies indeed exist all around us, and who's Reich-inspired work
led to the unfortunate development of practical Soviet military
defense applications which utilized principles of so-called
"torsion fields" (e.g., etheric energy). Kozyrev's work, which
indeed confirms both Reich's research and our empirical experiences
with orgonite, was classified until the fall of the Soviet Union in
1991.
Following in their footsteps, thousands of Ph.D.-level
researchers from both sides of the Iron Curtain spanning multiple
generations have continued Kozyrev and Reich's pioneering work,
slowly forcing mainstream Western science to finally, "officially
recognize" the concept of a universal, unseen energy medium they
call "dark matter," "vacuum flux" or "zero-point energy," depending
on who you ask. It is commonly understood among orgonite
enthusiasts that these are all essentially describing the same
thing, which Reich called "orgone".
The Advancements of OrgoniteReich built his research lab, dubbed
Orgonon, in rural Maine, USA, as this location was at the time very
isolated from sources of "deadly orgone," which his accumulators
would collect indiscriminantly. Operating an orgone accumulator
near sources of DOR (such as nuclear power plants, radio towers,
etc.) has the potential of harming anyone receiving treatment
inside it, so geographical location was and is an important factor
for orgone accumulator operation.
In 2000, a couple named Don and Carol Croft discovered through
some Internet research and empirical observation that mixing
catalyzed organic fiberglass resin with inorganic metal shavings,
poured into small molds such as paper cups and muffin pans, would
produce a substance which would attract etheric energy similarly to
Reich's accumulators.
Carol Croft, gifted with a keen sense of discrete energies,
realized the significance of this finding and took it a step
further by adding small quartz crystals to the mixture for their
ability to efficiently collect, transmute and emit etheric energy.
This addition to the resin/metal matrix creates a substance which
functions as a self-driven, continuously-operating, highly
efficient DORPOR (negative to positive) energy transmutation
factory.
When orgonite is within range of a source of DOR/negative
energy, it will efficiently and continuously transform it into
POR/positive energy as it is being transmitted, which essentially
creates positive energy transmitters out of any and all emitters of
harmful negative energy, which are totally defenseless against the
effect.
The resin in orgonite shrinks during the curing process,
permanently squeezing the quartz crystal inside which creates a
well-known piezoelectric effect inside the crystal, meaning its
end-points become polarized electrically. It is believed this is
also what causes the orgonite to function so effectively as a
positive energy generator.
Thus orgonite represents a very significant improvement over
Reich's early work with orgone accumulators, since Reich's "oracs"
attract deadly orgone energy as well as positive and do nothing to
transmute it into a purely beneficial form, which orgonite does
inherently and continuously.
Within a year of this development, Don began publishing reports
of his and his wife's experiences in, among other things, the
tactical deployment of small pieces of orgonite near any and all
sources of DOR, or life-negative energy, such as cellphone towers,
nuclear power plants, underground bases and natural Earth energy
gridlines and vorticies. Don included in his reports the specific
life-positive, cleansing, healing, confirming effects they would
notice following such "gifting" activities, causing Don to strongly
encourage his readers to replicate his efforts in their own
communities.
Cloudbusting: Then and NowIn addition to his effective health
treatments, Dr. Wilhelm Reich also utilized his advanced knowledge
of discrete energies to build and successfully test a weather
modification device called a "cloudbuster", which operated on the
principle that clouds are held together by orgone energy, and
removing this energy causes clouds to rapidly disintegrate. Reich
developed a superior weather prediction model which took into
account the otherwise-ignored etheric component of our weather and
produced more accurate weather predictions than the popular and
incomplete "pressure system" model.
Reich's cloudbuster consisted of a set of turret-mounted metal
pipes connected by rubber tubing to a body of water for energetic
grounding which would dissipate clouds by draining the orgone
energy holding them together and, with careful and time-consuming
effort, significantly alter overall weather patterns, in some cases
intentionally causing the complete reversal of drought conditions
in the desert in a matter of months.
Reich's design was proven very effective as intended, but could
also be very dangerous if mis-handled. Large amounts of DOR
accumulate in the pipes during operation, and even momentary
contact with bare skin has caused some operators everything from
intense pain to long-term paralysis, simply from brushing past the
pipes with a bare leg.
Don Croft has invented a more advanced, effective and safer
version of Reich's cloudbuster called a chembuster which combines
the original cloudbuster's basic operating principles with the
advantages of orgonite.
A typical chembuster consists of 6 six-foot copper pipes
embedded in a base of orgonite (typically poured in a paint bucket)
with double-terminated quartz crystals in the base of each pipe to
create an etheric energy vacuum effect which literally sucks the
negative energy from the sky within a several mile radius into the
orgonite base where it is then transmuted into harmless, beneficial
positive energy. Unlike Reich's cloudbusters, chembusters can be
safely left in continuous operation where they will quickly restore
and maintain atmospheric energy balance within an area. In
drought-stricken regions of the globe, this always occurs in the
form of rain sufficient to end the drought conditions. This has
been successfully demonstrated in variuos parts of Africa,
California and in many other locations around the world by various
dedicated individuals.
The infallibly-beneficial nature of orgonite eliminates the need
for special training, safety precautions, or rigorous effort to
operate a chembuster, since it simply transmutes any negative
energy it attracts from the atmosphere while the rest of the device
functions as an etheric vortex generator, actively balancing the
energy between sky and ground, eliminating smog/air pollution and
negatively-charged artificial cloud formations called "chemtrails",
replacing their spreading blanket of poisonous DOR clouds with the
deep blue skies and puffy white natural clouds we all remember from
childhood.
Detailed instructions for building your own chembuster (which
costs about $150 USD using all new materials) can be found in our
section on How to Make Orgonite.
The Orgonite Gifting MovementIt has been the experience of many
chembuster enthusiasts that the widespread deployment of digital
cellular communications towers across the populated areas of the
world in the last several years has created a thick blanket of
DOR/negative energy which saturates our homes and communities,
promotes drought, negativity, fear, etc., and significantly hinders
chembuster operation (among many other detrimental effects).
However, it has been widely experienced that these negative
effects can be disabled and chembusters can be made to start
working properly again simply by tossing or burying small
muffin-sized chunks of orgonite called TowerBusters (TB's) near all
the cellphone towers in their area, an increasingly-popular
activity which has become known as "gifting", and is conducted
literally all over the world now by thousands of selfless and
highly-dedicated individuals and Internet-organized groups.
This site is intended to provide a basic, accurate, efficient
introduction to orgonite for those interested in learning more
about it. If you wish to perform further research, we have a
comprehensive list of informational resources in our Further
Reading section.
The positive, self-empowering effects of working with orgonite
quickly become obvious to those who choose to make and use it. If
you are interested in seeking your own confirmations of it's
effectiveness, please visit our section on How to Make Orgonite to
find out how you can begin to improve the energy and create real
beneficial changes in your home and community.
How to Make Orgonite
OverviewBasic orgonite is simply fiberglass resin, metal
shavings and a quartz crystal, cured in any mold you like. There's
no one "right" shape or size for orgonite, and its range of effect
seems to scale linearly with volume, but there are specific,
time-tested, widely-used and repeatedly-confirmed effective designs
for both personal and field devices which have grown and continue
to grow out of the steadfast work of talented and dedicated gifters
from around the world. These designs comprise the basic tools of
the orgonite gifter as discussed on numerous orgonite Web boards
and offered pre-made by many reputable orgonite vendors.
What You'll NeedMetal Shavings: You don't want fine metal
filings, nor do you want large pieces of metal. Quarter-inch-wide
aluminum curls are very common and very effective for use in
orgonite, but any kind of copper, iron, brass (including brassed
aluminum), bronze, nickel or even steel shavings will work fine.
Just bring a bucket and some work gloves to a local machine shop
and ask them if you can fill your bucket with metal shavings.
Before giving them to you for free, they will probably ask you what
it's for (typically more out of curiosity than anything), so why
not tell them? If you don't feel comfortable explaining orgonite to
them, simply tell them about this site, or give them the simplest
honest answer you can, such as a "public service," "art project,"
or even "science experiement". However, you may be surprised what
people will understand if you take the time to explain it
meaningfully and from the heart.
Quartz Crystals: Any funky, ugly, smokey pieces of quartz will
work perfectly for orgonite field devices. You can usually find
this grade of quartz crystal very inexpensively at most decent gem
and mineral shops, or you can buy quartz online from orgonite-aware
vendors at appropriate sizes and grades.
Fiberglass/Epoxy Resin: The most expensive component of
orgonite, typically retailing for US$18-$25/gallon at marine supply
stores and hardware stores. Any kind of organic resin will work
fine, but liquid resin (as opposed to "body fill" paste) has been
found to be easiest to work with for creating orgonite. Resin
requires a chemical additive called a hardener, typically included
if purchased by the gallon, in order to catalyze the curing
(hardening) process, which may take from mere hours in hot, arid
weather to multiple days in wet, cold weather.
Molds: This depends on the specific type of orgonite device you
wish to create, but any mold which can withstand boiling
temperatures should work fine. Avoid plastics unless they are
oven-safe, as the chemical reaction which occurs during the
catalyzation process heats the resin to temperatures which can
easily melt normal plastics. Generally, metal molds seem to work
best for most purposes, but cheap field devices can also be made
from large paper bathroom cups or paper sno-cone cups. Use your
imagination!
Other Stuff: You will want a mixing container such as a bucket
(preferably with a pouring lip), a wooden stirring stick, some old
rags or paper towels for splashes and spills, and a large, flat
surface for leaving the orgonite to cure.
Safety: Organic resins emit toxic fumes before and during the
curing process, so working in a well-ventilated area such as a
backyard or porch/deck is ideal. You may also want to use
protective gloves and wear clothing you don't mind getting
catalyzed resin splashed on, as it will go everywhere, especially
your first few times pouring. Putting down a tarp first can help
tremendously with cleanup, as the hardened resin should pop right
off the tarp.
Common Orgonite Designs TowerBusters (TB's)
Holy Handgrenades (HHg's)
EarthPipes (EP's)
ChemBusters (CB's)
How to Make "Chembusters" (CB's)
From Don Croft & Ken Adachi's "Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello
Blue Skies!" on Educate-Yourself.org.
What Is a Chembuster?History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to
create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that
the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the
operator if it was not correctly "drained off". This "draining off"
of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the
Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting
the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the
orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly
orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator.
So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant
for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a
cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that consistently destroys
Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The Chembuster is the answer
to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB
changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT
become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one
for about $150.
Join The Battle - Now!
It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one
person cannot change the things that are happening to our country.
You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few
hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce
the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90
mile diameter) from the unit. If used with Slim Spurlings
environmental tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be
increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT
DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The Chembuster
cannot do any damage. It can only help and heal. Its up to you to
join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Chembuster Materials
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
CHEMBUSTER DIRECTIONS
BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic
buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food
buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets
from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the
handles make it easier to move the finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long,
open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so
of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and
shipping, you can use 12 sections of pipe in the base, adding
five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12 and five-foot
pieces. You wont need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz
crystal, about 2" long, into a .75 section of garden hose, (or use
electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper
end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after
the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the
cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the
cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine
gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the
CBs energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However,
citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at
eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop,
recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign
shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I
use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very
fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) arent
quite as good as ones that will easily go through a screen are
okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4 exterior plywood is used to make the
base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly
around a 2 1/2 radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2 apart on
centers. A flat, 1 1/4 auger bit drills a suitable hole for each
end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the
bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers
under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of
the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right
during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8 flat bit so
that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the
pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends
of the pipes, 4 radius with 1 1/8 holes on the same 2 1/2 radius
circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each
other and fairly rigid.
Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats),
but epoxy also works, as does Envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com
(this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it).
If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase
your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a
surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home Depot gets $24
per gallon for resin.
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into
the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the
surface is uniform and flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable;
use in a warm, but well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one
part metal particles (equal volume of resin to metal particles).
Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it
just touches the surface and doesn't sink in much. Pour a half
gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are
set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in
handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that
the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the
bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it
is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto
the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel.
After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it
aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two
stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the
bucket. Now its finished (wait until it hardens before you move it.
You will actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 gal.
of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them
for the base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come
into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows
you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10'
long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one
piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of
mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal
particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim
plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of
the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto
the 12" base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the
5 copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top
plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do
that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this
expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn't
harden before you're done.
We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the
range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper
atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently
shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force
Base by leaving the extended Chembuster pointing at the dead orgone
field above it for a week.
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular
direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the
longer it's left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance
from the Chembuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom,
pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog, which
was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so
direction can be a factor.
Chembusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few
days for your Chembuster to activate the environment enough to do
this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds
of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within
range of the Chembuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The
ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but weve
found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing
episodes.
Dr. Reichs Cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in
operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad
orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain ones life force
away when its concentrated in one spot. It's similar to a strong
positively charges static electrical field. When cloud cover is
unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or
too much rain) the Chembuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the
weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the
atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought
heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued
for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the Chembuster and
reported the occurrence (
http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html ),
told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert
before to the best of anyone's knowledge. It's arguably the driest
region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when theyre drawing in strong
unbalanced or dead orgone and dont put your hand on the base after
that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a
friend of ours did recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be
seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than
the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top
of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole
apparatus daily. In freezing climates, cover the top of the six
pipes with mini umbrellas so water cant freeze and shatter the
crystals. The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally well whether
its placed indoors or out. Up to seven crystals can be placed in
each pipe to improve performance.
How to Make Orgonite "Holy Handgrenades" (HHg's)
From Don Croft's Gifting Compendium:
1. Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a
cone shape. Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help
it hold its shape.
2. After you've shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone
upside down in a paper cup.
3. We cut a 26" length of 18 gauge copper wire and form it into
a clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so
that it fits loosely inside the paper cone. You can make it pretty
rough or get one of Christy Murphy's nifty conespiral bending forms
from Quebec Orgone. Orgone simply loves to run along and thru
curved, orderly pathways. 26 works well for us but there's no
specific reason for the length except [Don's psychic wife] Carol
likes it. We haven't seen any evidence that 'lost cubits' or other
specific measures are relevant to this work, by the way.
4. Put a big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the
cone, right on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like
to use BBs (small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that
American kids shoot from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but
they're very heavy and expensive if you're making a lot of HHgs and
TBs. The spherical form and also the plated zinc and copper over
steel provide some pretty dynamic energy qualities but any meta
waste from a machine shop is more than sufficient.
5. Shove a fat xtal (my abbreviation for 'crystal'), point down,
into the metal so that it's standing up, then put a little more
metal in to hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking
crystals for this which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz
works fine, by the way, for any of the items mentioned in this
document - amethyst, rose quartz, citrine, etc. Save the nice ones
for personal devices, though, if you feel inclined to experiment
with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg I'll use anything that's
at least an inch long and a half inch thick with one distinct
point. Gladys puts plenty of these in her 'per pound' orders, along
with the towerbuster crystals.
6. Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If
your metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before
it hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted cone -
don't learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;-)! The
level of resin and the level of metal after it's saturated needs to
be about the same, otherwise you're wasting some resin. It's better
to have metal sticking out of the bottom of the finished product
than to have less metal than resin. It's the metal that does the
work, apparently; the resin is the matrix.
7. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the
orgonite, sometimes; it's an optional process for this device but
this is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and
grounding the effects of the material. If you've got a talent for
this process, add whatever you like. If you don't have a feel for
it, be aware that the improper combination of elements will reduce
the effectiveness of your devices. There are books that can teach
you the properties of gemstones and minerals and these properties
are greatly enhanced by orgonite. My favorite, because it's based
on a combination of intuitition and empirical testing, is Michael
Gienger's CRYSTAL POWER, CRYSTAL HEALING. I don't personally care
much for channeled literature because there's no science behind it.
Science and spirituality are inseparable, in my opinion. Leaving
one or the other out of our personal life leaves us either
materialistic or superstitious but when they're in harmony, we're
empowered and intelligent.
8. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and
when it's hard, it's finished. You can leave the paper on or peel
it off. I leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and
brown with spraypaint if I won't be burying it and you'd be
surprised how hard it is to see a camouflaged HHg once it's been
put in a bush or other hiding place.
Notice that I'm not putting any additional crystals in the mix
as we'd advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that using
one bulky xtal in the point makes the other ones extraneous. I
think the coil is important in this case. Save the fancy efforts
for your personal devices.
How to Make New Orgone Devices
Part 1, 9-28-2005
By: Ryan McGinty
This is an essay explaining basic techniques I have used for
creating new Orgone Generating devices. It will cover; brief
introduction to Orgone, sensing the stones with noticing which
chakra the stone activates, getting to know the stones, how to find
positive and negative charges, using a pendulum to find energy
balances or imbalances, using your hands to find the direction or
energy.
Disclaimer: This essay is for educational purposes only. By
creating your own Orgone devices you are responsible for own
devices. You must test your device to see whether it works the way
you want it to. Not doing so my cause you or others harm. If you do
not know how your body reacts to energies then I suggest building
devices that are tried and true, such as: Towerbuster, Holy Hand
Grenade, Earth Pipe or Cloudbuster. Once you start to notice the
subtle energies at play and how your body reacts then begin
experimenting building your own devices.
Part 1: Brief Introduction to Orgone.
Orgone is a name given by Wilhelm Reich for vital health or life
energy. Orgone also is the same energy know as Chi or Prana from
Eastern cultures. To read more about orgone click here:
http://www.orgone.org/articles/ax9kelley1a.htm
D.B. explains, Orgone or etheric energy is a type of solar fire,
one of three primary force energies in existence, the other two
being fire by friction and electrical fire, known as electricity.
Prana is solar fire. It comes directly from the sun, and is
softened for humans by the so-called, Van Allen Belt. Orgone often,
and esp as emitted by orgone devices, will appear as heat waves:
ripples of clear, fiery energy that burns brightly, but does not
consume matter. Understand? Orgone devices are based upon Solar
Fire, and affect only those things and such (humans are based upon
this form of fire). The combination of electricity with orgone
devices might allow the energy to effect electrical systems.
AccumulatorGeneratorInteractive
There are three different types of Orgone devices, Accumulators,
Generators and Interactive. Don Croft states, Orgone Accumulators
draw in and concentrate orgone and send it back out again. When
they draw in unbalanced orgone, they send it back out as unbalanced
orgone, so one needs to use them in a place where there is more
good orgone than the bad stuff. Orgone Generator is a term Im using
advisedly, of course, since all things are generated from orgone.
In fact, these devices primarily draw in unbalanced orgone,
revitalize it, and send it back out again. Interactive orgone
devices are devices which a person or operator must be in contact
with in order for the device to operate. Interactive orgone device
uses a persons thought form then amplifies it with orgone.
Radionics is a good example of an Interactive Orgone device.
Wilhelm Reich created Accumulators; Karl Welz created the first
basic Orgone Generator and Interactive devices; Don and Carol Croft
created a better Orgone Generator by adding crystals, gems and
stones. When adding stones to an Orgone generating device it begins
to operate by itself without the addition of electricity or
operator. This is helpful because you can create a generator and it
will keep working on its own.
Orgone generating devises are composed of half metal and half
organic (epoxy or resin) material mixed with stones, gems or
crystals used to direct the energy and add their energetic
characteristics. On some occasion oils, herbs and dye colors have
been used to add their properties. Orgone devices take the
properties of orgone and added material magnifying them into the
environment. Don and Carol Croft were the first to place a crystal
in metal and organic matrix then provide proof how effective Orgone
Generators can really be. To read more about is experiences click
here:
http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcorgonegenfaq26feb02.shtml
Part 2: Sensing the energy of the stones.
Knowing a stones basic properties is a necessity when creating a
new device. Two good books on their properties are; Love Is In The
Earth, by: Melody and Crystal Power, Crystal Healing, by: Michael
Gienger. Melody uses a more spiritual tone while Gienger used a
scientific method, both giving you a good balance on either side.
Once you become familiar with stones you will be able to pick up a
new stone and; tell if its emitting or absorbing, what part of your
body is being activated, is it lower or higher vibration just by
listening to your bodys reactions.
The properties of stones are based on historical evidence,
personal experiences, mythological and metaphysical. The
metaphysical properties cover an area called the chakras. When
Prana enters the body it is broken into seven parts. Each part of
broken down Prana has its own unique color and characteristic.
Prana has seven points of entry into the physical body called
chakras. The seven chakras transmit the broken down Prana to where
the energy is needed to maintain health. The seven locations are:
base of spine, just bellow the belly button, Solar Plexus, heart,
throat, brow and 18 inches or so above the top of the head. Certain
colors represent each chakra and broken down Prana. Red: base of
spine, Orange: near the belly button, Yellow: Solar Plexus, Green
and Pink: heart, Blue: throat, Indigo: brow, Violet and White:
above the head. Get to know these centers well because they will
come in handy when noticing a stones reaction to your body and
quickly figuring out a stones characteristics. To read more about
the chakras click here:
http://laluni.helloyou.ws/netnews/bk/soul/soul1031.html or read
Cyndi Dales: New Chakra Healing, for a great intro and overall
chakra info; A.E. Powells: Etheric Double, for specific chakra and
Prana workings.
Seven Chakra General Information
ColorLocationCharacteristics
Seventh ChakraViolet, WhiteAbove the head.Higher self, divine
awareness, spiritual, understanding path and purpose,
Sixth ChakraIndigoBrowVision, visualization and insight. Linked
to clairvoyance.
Fifth ChakraBlueThroatTruth, Wisdom, Responsibility, verbal
expression, receiving info from hearing or reading. Linked to
clairaudience.
Fourth ChakraGreen, Pink, Blue, GoldHeartLove, healing,
compassion, relationships. Energy type: Etheric, love.
Third ChakraYellowSolar PlexusPower, judgments, discernment,
understanding thoughts and ideas, Energy type: mental, thought and
intellectual.
Second ChakraOrangeNavalFeelings, creativity and expressing them
through the appropriate physical outlet: laughing, crying, etc
Empathy for self and others. Female reproduction.
First ChakraRedBase of spine.Source of: passion, primal
feelings, aggression, terror, survival, will to live and material
energy for achieving life purpose. Male reproduction.
Info from: Cyndi Dale. New Chakra Healing, MN: Llewellyn
Publications, 1996
Colors and their meanings are a must know when building a
device. Stones and objects the same color as a chakra activate that
chakra because of similar color vibration. For great info on color,
meanings and usages read: Charles Klotsche. Color Medicine, AZ:
Light Technology Publishing
Here is a basic on color meanings:
General PsychologicalLight Properties
RedSexual, vitality, aggression, passionPower, energy, hot,
danger, stop, fastStimulant, increases endurance and muscle,
physical strength, improves circulation.
OrangeEmotion, Health, Sympathetic, sociability, opennessWarm,
energyProduces life energy that radiates through the body. Releases
trapped or blocked energy.
YellowIntellect, learning, attracting attensionOptimism, hope,
philosophy, caution, cowardStimulates digestion and lymphatic
system, raises lower energy thoughts.
GreenHealing, balance, caring, growthNature, healthy, renewal,
go, safe, mildTension reliever, balances, builds cell and tissue,
healing, quieting.
BlueWisdom, perceptive, loyalty, truth, trust,Trust,
conservative, order, cool, maleStimulates, calms and clears thought
processes and intuitiveness, strengthen aspiration and
devotion.
IndigoResponsibility, Spiritual awareness, self-reliantCalms
respiratory system, reduces swelling, improves emotional states.
Strengthens purpose, ambition and determination. Will power.
VioletSpirituality, intuitive, teacherSpirituality, royalty
Healing energy neutralize infection and promote recovery then
followed by white to remove excess violet. Relaxes muscles, calms
nerves and metabolic processes.
WhitePurity, perfectionCleanliness, precision, death
PinkLove, compassion, affectionateFemaleHealing
miss-understandings and cleavages, harmony, love and goodwill.
GoldWisdom, intellectWealthPowerful protection, lifts raises and
eliminates that which hinders .
SilverIdealism, honestNourishing, sustaining energy, promotes
growth
BlackMalice, Strong-willed, opinionated, hatred, diseased,
pessimism, depression.Power, mystery, fear, death, sophistication,
unhappy, aborbing.
GrayConventionality, lack of imagination, reservedIntellect,
modesty, sadness
BrownMaterialism, ambition, down to earthEarth, reliability,
comfort
Info from: Charles Klotsche. Color Medicine, AZ: Light
Technology Publishing. Two Disciples, The Rainbow Bridge, CA: The
Triune Foundation, Rainbow Bridge Productions. Color Wheel meaning
link.
Increasing Sensitivity
One way of getting your body more sensitive is by holding a
crystal in one hand, pointing at your other hand's palm moving it
clockwise over the palm. After a minute begin to move the crystal
back and forth from the palm. You should notice a pulling or
tugging sensation.
INCLUDEPICTURE "http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/holding1.jpg"
\* MERGEFORMATINET
This second exercise will help you determine how large the
energy field is, if its emitting or absorbing energy. First lay the
stone on the table out in front of you. Second hold your open palm
over the stone about two feet above. Third begin to lower you palm
closer toward the stone. Youll want to be taking notice either the
resistance/pressure or absorption/becomes easier when lowering your
palm. This will take several tries to notice. It feels like a
slight pressure being applied to your skin. Its very subtle at
first until you being to recognize it. The distance you first begin
to notice it is usual the edge of the energy field. People who
first begin to notice the energy notice when the energy field
becomes stronger and a denser feeling. With practice youll notice
the subtle beginning energy field edge. A known absorbing stone is
Selenite. When you move your palm closer youll notice it becomes
easier. Quartz has emitting properties.
Now that you notice the emitting and absorbing energy from a
crystal its time to try the third exercise. Clasp a stone in your
palm; relax your body then notice which parts of your body are
being excited, stimulated, notice the mood and feelings. The point
for this exercise is to listen to what your body is telling you.
One of the best guides is listening to what your own body tells
you. Feelings, emotions, reactions, sensations, etc This exercise
can take the longest to develop this skill. If you are busy minded
or dont know your bodys reaction then this may take some time. The
trick to sensing energies is to listen how your body reacts to
nouns: persons, places, things, events, substances or qualities. To
help build trust in yourself create blind tests. An example, have
someone place the stone in a bag you cannot see into. Make sure the
person does not tell you which stone it is. Then hold the bag and
take note of the sensations. Remove the item and see if the
sensations you noticed matched when you could see the stone. By
practicing blind tests like this youll pick up on how different
stones feel and begin to trust in what you feel.
If you find that using your hands to sense energy causes them to
ache or feel uncomfortable I suggest moving your consciousness
around the stone to sense the energy. To explain how this work for
me I look at an area on the stone then move my mind to that area.
So where I look is where my mind is concentrating. When I look away
to the side of the stone Im listening to feelings I get if I were
holding the stone. When I dont notice the energy feeling I know
that is where the energy field ends. With practice you will be able
to tell if the energy is spinning a certain direction, if theres
breaks in the energy field and which way the energy is moving
toward or away.
Once you notice how a crystal or gems feel its now time to see
how other items feel. What I find interesting is when you place
your palm over a flower. The flower emits a loving pleasant
feeling, kind of a hidden reason we give flowers for love.
Practice, practice, practice to build up your sensitivity. It
builds knowledge with experience using stones, gems, crystals and
different objects. It will also allow you to notice the orgone
flame coming off different objects. Developing sensitivity to
stones takes time. Be patient, make it like a game to keep from
becoming frustrated if you do not notice anything immediately.
Part 3: Finding Positive and Negative Charges.
When I notice positive or negative charged energy from a device
or stone the placement of the feeling on my body and emotion lets
me know what type it is. (See Chakra Diagram) When I come into
contact with positive charged energy my upper body from the heart
to above the head feels activated or excited. The stronger the
positive the higher on my body feels excited. The strongest
positive activates above my head feeling vibrant, tingly with a
pleasant happiness or loving feeling. When I come into contact with
negative charged energy my lower body from Solar Plexus to hips
feels activated. The more negative the lower on my body. The
strongest negative will make my body feel like its being pulled
down; pain will begin in my head then a feeling of the need to get
away as quick as possible. Lower emotions and thoughts will also
appear.
Both positive and negative charged energy can have pleasant to
unpleasant feeling. An example is when positive energy feels too
strong for the body to handle and then becomes painful. Another
example is when the negative energy is subtle and feels relaxing or
grounding.
In Richard Gordons, Your Healing Hands, The Polarity Experience
he explains that the human body has certain charges. The top of the
head has a positive charge, the bottom of the feet has a negative
charge, the right side has a positive charge and the left has a
negative charge. These charges can be confirmed from using
sensitive voltage meters. Gordon mentions Dr. Randolph Stone was
one of the originators of modern polarity system in western
culture.
Here is an exercise to help identify positive and negative
charges using a single terminated crystal. The reason for using a
single terminated for this exercise because you know which end is
positive and negative charged. First get yourself a good size
single terminated crystal thats at least three inches long. Second
hold the crystal between your thumb and fingers making sure the
ends are not pointing toward the palm you are holding it with.
Third move your other hands palm over the pointed crystal tip and
take note of where you feel the energy reacting on your body.
Fourth flip the crystal around so the broken end is facing your
other hands palm. Take note of where you feel the energy reacting
on your body. There should be a difference when you flip the
crystal around. Do this several times to get a sense of what is
going on. To eliminate the possibility of the holding hand
affecting what you sense place the crystal on a table in front of
you. Now move your palm in front of either end pausing to take note
where the energy is reacting on your body. Double-check the feeling
by using a different single terminated crystal to test yourself. If
youre not noticing a reaction like a tingling sensation, pressure
on the body or a sensation either emotional or physical dont worry.
Developing sensitivity to stones takes time. Be patient, make it
like a game to keep from becoming frustrated if you do not notice
anything immediately.
The safest way to check if a device is emitting positive or
negative charged energy is by putting your mind or consciousness on
the object. This will keep your body out of harms way and is also
helpful in allowing you to check out people, places and objects
from a distance. The same chakra activation and feelings occur for
me.
You can also use a pendulum to find positive and negative
charged energy ends. First you must know how Yes and No answers are
conveyed with your pendulum. Ask the question then move the
pendulum over the device. The pendulum will help you learn the
subtle energies once you recognize how your body reacts with the
answers the pendulum provides. The pendulum can only give a Yes or
No and counting answers. It is a basic tool. Once you have
developed your sensing abilities you will find the energy will be a
lot more complex than a Yes or No answer. Pendulum.
Here are two websites to learn more about dowsing:
www.dowsers.org and
A Mini-Course in Pendulum Dowsing. Remember to keep your elbows
tucked in tight to your side so no external or arm movement effect
the sway.
Part 4: Finding and figuring out stones to use.
When creating a new device you must first figure out what
resources are available. Some of the stones mentioned in the books
are rare and hard to find. Choose stones that are accessible to
you. You may need to make more than one device to get it right.
Check the local phone book for rock shops, metaphysical stores or
even science stores. Online venders are a great resource too.
If you find a stone and your not sure what it is remember to
test if its: emitting or absorbing, take into account the color,
the chakra activation, if its positive or negative charged energy
emitting and the emotions you feel while handling it.
Now you know what is available, figure out what type of device
you will be making. Take also into consideration what part of the
body the stone activates. If a stone jumps out at you when handling
it take note it just might be a stone youll need for your creation.
Remember black, gray, brown, red, yellow and orange stones activate
the three lower chakras. Green and pink stones activate the heart.
Blue to violet activate the higher chakras. Clear or white stones
can work on all chakras. Gold amplifies the affect of orgone
devices.
Clearing stones.
Once you have your stones youll need to clear them from any
built up negative charge they might of come into contact with. Here
are four techniques that you can use to clear them.
First: Incenses or Smudging.
Either hold or place the stone on a mesh to let the smoke
drifter over.
As the smoke drifts over visualize the stone becoming clearer
and negativity floating away with the smoke. Continue as long as
you feel is needed. Usually a couple minutes clears the stone.
Second: Sea Salt Water.
Do not use this on stones that dissolve when placed in water or
contain Iron. Mix in a couple tablespoons of Sea Salt into a bowl
of water. Place the stones into water and let them set for a few
days. When done dry.
Third: The Sun.
Place the stones in a bowl or plate preferably white or clear so
color charging does not affect the stones. Next set them out in the
morning sun light thru to evening. Bring them in at night and
repeat the process if needed.
Fourth: Blessing with love.
Place the stones in your left palm facing up. Next place your
right palm over the top clasping the lower left palm. Now begin to
activate the heart by thinking of loved ones, family, friends etc
You want to feel that love vibe inside. Once you have it visualize
it coming from your heart to your palms. Make sure you keep the
vibe going while visualizing going to the palms. This will only
take a minute or two for clearing. If you feel it needs more time
then repeat the process.
Use your hands sensitivity to see if they need more clearing
time.
Laying out the stones.
Because there are so many possible combinations to laying out
stones I prefer to spread the stones out on the table before me
allowing me to see how the stones react before pouring.
LineTwo-DimensionalThree-Dimensional
WandImplantkillerHHG
When making the new device youll have to decide on the shape of
the device. Will the alignment be in a line, a two-dimensional flat
layout or a three-dimensional shape? An example of a line would be
a wand. A plate, disk or cross would be a two-dimensional. Finally
a three-dimensional would be a cone, sphere or any polygon form.
You can also mix a multiple of the various dimensions but this adds
more complicity and you must really sense the energy workings in
order to know if your device is emitting safe positive charged
energy. It is advised you create simpler alignments then once
familiar with the stones and orgone progress from there.
Using a pendulum.
Lay the stones out before you on the ground in the alignment you
think will work best. Make sure the stone are spaced the same
distance they will be placed into the device. Next take a pendulum
and slowly move it about 3 to 6 inches above the length of the
configuration. The pendulum will show you where the energy
blockages are and where the energy flows properly. For me this done
by getting a YES (clockwise motion swing) and NO (back and forth
motion) this may be different for you. The NO motion of the
pendulum lets you know the energy has stopped or blocked. When you
move the pendulum over again you want to get a good YES answer over
the whole thing. Every time you move a stone around it changes the
balance in the alignment.
By watching how strong the pendulum moves in a YES motion,
either faster or bigger you can tell which area is stronger. You
may notice one end will be stronger with energy flowing out.
Using your hands.
Using your hands is similar to the pendulum only you move your
open palm over the stone alignment. You will want to notice the
subtle sensation of the energy either pushing or pulling your palm.
Youll be looking for an even pushing feeling against your hand. The
reason is energy blocks have a break in energy so youll feel a dead
spot or feel no resistance. When moving your hand over again listen
to your body if it has any uncomfortable feelings. Take note of any
uncomfortable places then rearrange the alignment so its a nice
pleasant pushing feeling.
End Part One, Continued with Part Two to be completed in a few
weeks.[back] Orgone generator tutorialsHOLY HANDGRENADE
(approximately 12 fl oz) by Don Croft18 gauge HYPERLINK
"http://www.whale.to/b/hhg.html"
1. Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a
cone shape. Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help
it hold its shape.
2. After you've shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone
upside down in a paper cup.
3. We cut a 26" length of copper wire and form it into a
clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so that
it fits loosely inside the paper cone. You can make it pretty rough
or get one of Christy Murphy's nifty cone spiral bending forms from
www.quebecorgone.com. Orgone simply loves to run along and thru
curved, orderly pathways. 26" works well for us but there's no
specific reason for the length except Carol likes it. We haven't
seen any evidence that 'lost cubits' or other specific measures are
relevant to this work, by the way.
Christy coil forms available from www.quebecorgone.com 4. Put a
big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the cone, right
on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like to use BBs
(small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that American kids
shoot from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but they're very
heavy and expensive if you're making a lot of HHgs and TBs. The
spherical form and also the plated zinc and copper over steel
provide some pretty dynamic energy qualities but any meta waste
from a machine shop is more than sufficient.
5. Shove a fat xtal (my abbreviation for 'crystal'), point down,
into the metal so that it's standing up, then put a little more
metal in to hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking
crystals for this which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz
works fine, by the way, for any of the items mentioned in this
document-amethyst, rose quartz, citrine, etc. Save the nice ones
for personal devices, though, if you feel inclined to experiment
with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg I'll use anything that's
at least an inch long and a half inch thick with one distinct
point. Gladys puts plenty of these in her 'per pound' orders, along
with the towerbuster crystals.
6. Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If
your metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before
it hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted
cone-don't learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;-)! The
level of resin and the level of metal after it's saturated needs to
be about the same, otherwise you're wasting some resin. It's better
to have metal sticking out of the bottom of the finished product
than to have less metal than resin. It's the metal that does the
work, apparently; the resin is the matrix.
7. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the
orgonite, sometimes; it's an optional process for this device but
this is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and
grounding the effects of the material. If you've got a talent for
this process, add whatever you like. If you don't have a feel for
it, be aware that the improper combination of elements will reduce
the effectiveness of your devices. There are books that can teach
you the properties of gemstones and minerals and these properties
are greatly enhanced by orgonite. My favorite, because it's based
on a combination of intuitition and empirical testing, is Michael
Gienger's CRYSTAL POWER, CRYSTAL HEALING. I don't personally care
much for channeled literature because there's no science behind it.
Science and spirituality are inseparable, in my opinion. Leaving
one or the other out of our personal life leaves us either
materialistic or superstitious but when they're in harmony,
we'reempowered and intelligent.
8. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and
when it's hard, it's finished. You can leave the paper on or peel
it off. I leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and
brown with spraypaint if I won't be burying it and you'd be
surprised how hard it is to see a camouflaged HHg once it's been
put in a bush or other hiding place.
9. Notice that I'm not putting any additional crystals in the
mix as we'd advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that
using one bulky xtal in the point makes the other ones extraneous.
I think the coil is important in this case. Save the fancy efforts
for your personal devices
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