“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Piera Chen Chung Wah Chow Hong Kong ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Piera Chen Chung Wah Chow
Hong Kong
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
Welcome to Hong Kong ... 4
Hong Kong’s Top 16 ....... 6
What’s New ....................17
Need to Know ............... 18
Top Itineraries ..............20
If You Like .....................22
Month by Month ...........25
With Kids .......................28
Like a Local ................... 31
For Free .........................33
Eating .......................... 34Drinking & Nightlife.. 43Entertainment ........... 48Shopping ...................... 51Sports & Activities ....57
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Hong Kong 281
Survival Guide 315
Hong Kong Maps 360
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Hong Kong 62
Hong Kong Transport ....................316
Macau Transport ....... 325
Hong Kong Directory A–Z ............ 328
Macau Directory A–Z ............ 336
Language ................... 339
Index ...........................350
Hong Kong Today .......282
History ........................ 284
Arts ..............................295
Cinema ....................... 303
Architecture ............... 306
Macau’s History & Culture ......................... 310
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ...........................64
Hong Kong Island: Central ...........................66
Hong Kong Island: the Peak & the Northwest .....................82
Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai & the Northeast ....................104
Hong Kong Island: Aberdeen & the South ........................... 127
Kowloon....................... 135
New Territories ........... 164
Outlying Islands .......... 192
Day Trips from Hong Kong .................216Macau ..........................232
Sleeping .................... 263
THE PEAK
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -850 -0
9 781741 798500
99125
These symbols help you to quickly identify listings in the text and on the maps:
1 SIGHTS
5 EATING
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
3 ENTERTAINMENT
7 SHOPPING
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIESReviews are ordered by author preference to help you get the most out of the city.
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:
S Sustainable Option
% Telephone Number
h Opening Hours
p Parking
n Nonsmoking
a Air-Conditioning
i Internet Access
W Wi-Fi Access
v Vegetarian Selection
s Swimming Pool
E English- Language Menu
c Family-Friendly
# Pet-Friendly
g Bus
f Ferry
m Metro
b Subway
j Tram
d Train
Top Sights features provide in-depth coverage of the city’s very best sights.
How to Use This Book
Plan Your Trip
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and suggestions to help you put together your
perfect trip.
Survival Guide
Your at-a-glance reference – Vital practical information to help you have a
smooth trip.
Get more from your trip – Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of
the city.
Understand
Your complete city guide – Top Sights features, in-depth reviews and
local tips.
Explore
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Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Hong Kong Island: Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .80
Hong Kong Island: The Peak & the Northwest . . . . . . . . . . 82Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .96Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .99Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 103
Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai & the Northeast . . . . . . . . . 104Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 121Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 126
Hong Kong Island: Aberdeen & the South . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 133Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 134
Kowloon . . . . . . . . . . . 135Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 157Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 158Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 163
New Territories . . . . . 164Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Tsuen Wan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Tuen Mun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Yuen Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Fanling & Sheung Shui . . . 173Tai Po . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Plover Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Sha Tin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Sai Kung Peninsula . . . . . . 184Clearwater Bay Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Outlying Islands . . . . 192Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Lamma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Lantau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Cheung Chau . . . . . . . . . . .210
Day Trips from Hong Kong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Shēnzhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Guǎngzhōu . . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Macau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Macau Peninsula . . . . . . . .234The Islands: Taipa & Coloane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .263
ExploreHong Kong
GEO
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HSBC Building.................. 68
Star Ferry ...........................69
Victoria Peak ..................... 84
Man Mo Temple .................85
Hong Kong Park ..............106
Hong Kong Museum of History .............................. 137
Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade ......................138
Temple Street Night Market ....................139
Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple..................140
Chi Lin Nunnery ...............141
Mai Po Marshes ...............165
Ping Shan Heritage Trail .166
Ngong Ping Plateau ........193
Ruins of the Church of St Paul ............................. 233
TOP SIGHTS HONG KONG ’S
63
360
U-Bahn
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
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CyclingFerry
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Walking TourDetour
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Path
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Tertiary
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PedestrianOverpass
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Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
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Marine Park
Cliff
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State/Province
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River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
Hong Kong Maps
MAP INDEX
361361
1 Central (p 362 )
2 Lan Kwai Fong & Soho (p 366 )
3 Sheung Wan (p 368 )
4 Admiralty (p 370 )
5 Wan Chai (p 372 )
6 Causeway Bay (p 374 )
7 Aberdeen (p 376 )
8 Stanley (p 377 )
9 Tsim Sha Tsui (p 378 )
10 Hung Hom (p 380 )
11 Yau Ma Tei (p 382 )
12 Mong Kok (p 383 )
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CENTRAL HONG KONG Map on p362
æ Top Sights (p68) ú Eating (p72) þ Shopping (p78)HSBC Building................E5 Amber................... (see 48) Ben Brown ........... (see 40)Star Ferry ........................F2 Caprice ................. (see 47) Blanc de Chine .....(see 41)
City Hall Maxim's 33 City Chain.......................D4æ Sights (p70) Palace ..................(see 11) Dymocks .............. (see 36)
1 Bank of China Tower .....F6 Citysuper.............. (see 37) Fook Ming Tong Tea2 Cenotaph ........................F5 Greyhound Cafe .. (see 37) Shop................... (see 36)3 Central Market ..............C3 22 Heichinrou ..................... D3 Gagosian .............. (see 40)4 Cheung Kong Garden....F6 Inagiku .................. (see 47) Galerie Perrotin ... (see 44)5 Court of Final Appeal.... E6 23 Island Tang .................... E5 34 Giordano Ladies ............D46 Exchange Square.......... E4 L'Atelier de Joel Harvey Nichols .... (see 39)
Former French Robuchon.......... (see 39) 35 Hong Kong BookMission Building..(see 5) Le Jardin............... (see 39) Centre.......................... E4
7 Former Legislative Lei Garden............ (see 37) 36 IFC Mall........................... E3Council Building ..........F5 24 Linguini Fini....................C3 37 IFC Mall........................... E3
8 Government House ...... D6 Lung King Heen... (see 47) 38 Joyce .............................. D59 Hanart TZ Gallery ......... D5 25 Lupa ................................D4 39 Landmark....................... D5
10 Hong Kong City Hall Petite Amanda..... (see 37) Lane Crawford..... (see 37)(High Block).................F4 Pierre .................... (see 49) Oliver's, The
11 Hong Kong City Hall Tasty Congee and Delicatessen ......(see 41)(Low Block)..................F4 Noodle Wonton 40 Pearl Lam Galleries....... D5
12 Hong Kong Club Shop................... (see 37) Picture This...........(see 41)Building ........................F5 Three Sixty........... (see 39) 41 Prince's Building ........... E5
Hong Kong Monetary Vero Chocolates.. (see 39) 42 Saamlung ....................... D3Authority 26 Watermark......................F2 43 Shanghai Tang .............. D5Information Zuma..................... (see 39) Simon Lee ............ (see 40)Centre................ (see 20) Three Sixty........... (see 39)
13 Hong Kong Planning û Drinking & Nightlife (p75) 44 White Cube ....................C3& Infrastructure Amo Eno............... (see 36) 45 Wing On DepartmentGallery .........................G4 Captain's Bar ....... (see 49) Store ............................ B2
14 Hong Kong 27 DMYK..............................C6Zoological & Le Salon de Thé... (see 39) Ø Sports & Activities (p80)Botanical Liberty Exchange ...(see 6) 46 Impakt Martial ArtsGardens....................... D7 MO Bar ................. (see 39) & Fitness
15 Jardine House ............... E4 28 Pier 7 Cafe & Bar............F2 Centre..........................C416 Old Bank of China 29 Propaganda ...................C4 Pure Fitness......... (see 37)
Building ........................F6 Red Bar................. (see 37) Spa at the Four17 One International Sevva .....................(see 41) Seasons............. (see 47)
Finance Centre 30 T:me................................ B4 Ten Feet Tall ........ (see 24)(One IFC)..................... D3 31 Volume ........................... B4
18 St John's Cathedral ...... E6 32 Works .............................C6 ÿ Sleeping (p267)19 Statue Square ................F5 47 Four Seasons................. D220 Two International ý Entertainment (p78) 48 Landmark Mandarin
Finance Centre Grappa's Cellar..... (see 15) Oriental........................ D5(Two IFC) .....................F2 Palace IFC Cinema(see 37) 49 Mandarin Oriental ......... E5
21 World Wide House ........ E4
CENT
RAL
HON
G KO
NG
365
LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO Map on p366
æ Sights (p86) 43 Peak Cafe Bar .............................................C41 10 Chancery Lane Gallery..........................D5 44 Portrait Winemakers & Distillers.............. B32 Blindspot Gallery ........................................B2 45 Staunton's Wine Bar & Cafe .....................C43 Central Police Station ................................D4 46 The Central Wine Club...............................G54 Graham St Market ......................................D2 47 The Flying Winemaker ............................... F65 Grotto Fine Art ............................................F6 48 The Globe ....................................................C36 Schoeni Art Gallery.....................................C5 49 Tivo............................................................... E5
50 Whiskey Priest .............................................F5ú Eating (p90) 51 Yun Fu .......................................................... E6
7 Assaf.............................................................D2Beyrouth Cafe Central ....................... (see 7) ý Entertainment (p99)
8 Butao Ramen...............................................F4 52 Culture Club ................................................ B29 Club Qing .....................................................F5 53 Fringe Club ..................................................G6
10 Flying Pan.....................................................D4 Fringe Studio Theatre...................... (see 53)11 Good Spring Co...........................................E2 54 Hard Rock Café........................................... F612 Jashan ..........................................................D3 55 Joyce is Not Here .......................................C213 Kung Lee ......................................................B2 56 Makumba Africa Lounge ........................... B314 Lan Fong Yuen.............................................D3 57 Peel Fresco..................................................C215 Life Cafe .......................................................C4 58 TakeOut Comedy Club .............................. B416 Luk Yu Tea House .......................................F317 Mak's Noodle...............................................E2 þ Shopping (p101)18 Olé Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar ....... G6 59 Arch Angel Antiques ..................................C219 Pastis Bistro Francais ................................E4 60 Book Attic....................................................C220 Posto Pubblico ............................................B4 61 Carpet Centre ............................................. D321 Robata Zawazawa ......................................E6 62 Chinese Arts & Crafts .................................F222 Ser Wong Fun..............................................E2 63 Chocolate Rain ........................................... B323 Sing Kee ........................................................E1 64 City Chain .....................................................F224 Tai Cheong Bakery .....................................D3 65 Fang Fong Projects .................................... B325 Vbest Tea House.........................................B2 Flow .................................................... (see 66)26 Wagyu...........................................................E5 66 Honeychurch Antiques.............................. D327 Wang Fu .......................................................E2 67 L Plus H........................................................G328 Yellow Door Kitchen ...................................D2 68 Linva Tailor.................................................. D229 Yung Kee Restaurant .................................F4 69 Lu Lu Cheung .............................................. F4
70 Mountain Folkcraft......................................F5û Drinking & Nightlife (p96) Nude is Rude ..................................... (see 73)
30 Alhambra .....................................................F5 71 Olympia Graeco-Egyptian Coffee ............C531 Angel's Share Whisky Bar..........................D3 72 Photo Scientific ..........................................G432 Bar 1911 ........................................................C3 73 Pursue by Joel ............................................ F633 Bar 42 ...........................................................B2 74 Tai Sing Fine Antiques ...............................G534 Beijing Club..................................................G5 75 The 9th Muse .............................................. E335 Bit Point........................................................F5 76 Wattis Fine Art ............................................ D336 Club 71 ..........................................................C237 Club 97 .........................................................G5 Ø Sports & Activities (p103)38 Dragon-I .......................................................E6 77 Happy Foot Reflexology Centre ............... E239 Gecko Lounge .............................................E340 Insomnia ......................................................F5 ÿ Sleeping (p267)41 La Dolce Vita................................................G5 78 Hanlun Habitats (Main Office).................. F442 Likuid ............................................................F6 79 Hotel LKF ..................................................... F6
LAN KW
AI FON
G & SOHO
366
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Queen's RdCentral
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Chung Kong Rd
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PeelSt
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Shun TakCentre
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Eæ Top Sights (p85) 29 Oolaa ......................................C4
Man Mo Temple ................... C4 30 Teakha ...................................B4
æ Sights (p86) ý Entertainment (p99)1 Amelia Johnson 31 Java Java ...............................B3
Contemporary................... D4 32 Sheung Wan Civic2 Asia Art Archive ....................B3 Centre .................................C33 Cat Street Galleries ............. C4 33 XXX.........................................B24 Dr Sun Yat Sen Museum......D55 Hong Kong Museum of þ Shopping (p102)
Medical Sciences ...............C5 34 Haji Gallery ............................B46 Input/Output Gallery........... B4 35 Homeless ...............................D47 Jamia Mosque ...................... D6 36 Indosiam ................................D48 Kwun Yam Temple............... B4 37 Karin Weber Gallery .............D59 Ohel Leah Synagogue ..........B5 38 La Cabane a Vin ....................D4
10 Pak Sing Ancestral Hall ........B3 39 Lam Kie Yen Tea Co .............D311 Para/Site Artspace ..............B3 40 Lomography ..........................B312 Queen's Rd West 41 Ranee K..................................E4
Incense Shops ................... C3 42 Select 18 ................................C413 Roman Catholic 43 The Pottery Workshop.........B4
Cathedral of the 44 Wing On..................................E3ImmaculateConception .........................E7 Ø Sports & Activities (p103)
14 Sin Sin Fine Art ..................... B4 45 Wan Kei Ho15 Western Market ................... C2 International
Martial Artsú Eating (p92) Association.........................D3
16 Chan Chun Kee .....................B217 Chan Kan Kee ........................B3 ÿ Sleeping (p267)18 Gaia Ristorante .....................E3 46 Bishop Lei International19 Kau Kee Restaurant ............ D4 House ..................................E720 Lin Heung Kui ........................B2 47 Butterfly on Hollywood ........B321 Ngau Kee Food Café.............E4 48 Butterfly on Wellington........E422 The Chairman....................... D4 49 Hotel LBP...............................B3
The Grand Stage ......... (see 15) 50 Ibis ..........................................B223 Tim's Kitchen........................ C3 51 Lan Kwai Fong Hotel ............E424 Yardbird ................................ C4 52 Lily Court ...............................D7
53 Orchid.....................................D6û Drinking & Nightlife (p98) 54 Peach Blossom .....................D6
25 Barista Jam........................... C3 55 Putman ..................................D426 Cafe Loisl .............................. B4 56 The Bauhinia .........................D327 Cage....................................... D4 57 YWCA Building ......................A428 Capo's Espresso ...................E4
Knockbox CoffeeCompany...................(see 30)
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Connaught Rd Central
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10
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TheLandmark
Bankof ChinaTower
CitibankPlaza
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USConsulate
SARGovernmentHeadquarters
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æ Top Sights (p106) ú Eating (p113) Hong Kong Park ..........................................C4 AMMO ................................................... (see 1)
Cēpage................................................ (see 15) æ Sights (p107) 11 DALAT ..........................................................H4 1 Asia Society Hong Kong Centre ...............F5 Great Food Hall.................................. (see 17) 2 Edward Youde Aviary .................................C4 Lock Cha Tea Shop .............................(see 6) 3 Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware.....D3 12 Pure Veggie House..................................... A4 4 Forsgate Conservatory ..............................D4 San Xi Lou........................................... (see 12) 5 Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre ..................B4 13 Vero Chocolates .........................................H2 6 KS Lo Gallery ...............................................D3 Yè Shanghai ....................................... (see 17) 7 Lippo Centre................................................E3 8 New Central Government Offices.............F2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p121) 9 Tamar Park ...................................................F1 14 1/5 ................................................................G4 10 The Helena May ..........................................B4 15 Classified Mozzarella Bar..........................G4
ADM
IRAL
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VictoriaHarbour
HarcourtGarden
PacificPlace
Gloucester Rd
Connaught Rd Central
Queen's Rd East
Queensway
Perfor
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Supreme C
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Bowen Rd
Tim Mei Ave
Justi
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Harcourt Rd
Borrett Rd
Lung Wui Rd
Li Chit
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Anton S
tLa
ndale St
Drake St
Arse
nal S
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Sun St
Mon
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Star St
Lockhart Rd
Tim
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Tamar St
St Francis St
Fenw
ic
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Lung King St
Win
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Admiralty
BritishConsulate
FrenchConsulate
GermanConsulate
Bus Station(Admiralty)7
9
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13
11
17
18
16
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8
FarEast Finance
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QueenswayPlaza
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Hong KongAcademy for
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ý Entertainment (p123) ÿ Sleeping (p269) 16 AMC Pacific Place.......................................F4 20 Garden View................................................A4
21 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong ...................E4 þ Shopping (p123) The Helena May .................................(see 10) Anteprima ...........................................(see 17) 22 The Upper House........................................ F4 Chinese Arts & Crafts........................(see 17) Joyce....................................................(see 17) Kelly & Walsh......................................(see 17) Lane Crawford....................................(see 17) 17 Pacific Place ................................................F4 18 Sonjia ........................................................... G4
Ø Sports & Activities (p126) 19 Hong Kong Squash Centre ....................... C4
ADMIRALTY
372
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Victoria Harbour
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Wan ChaiSportsGround
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Gloucester Rd
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Hennessy Rd
Expo Dr Central
Expo Dr
Johnston Rd
Hung Hing Rd
KennedyRd
Jaffe Rd
Convention Ave
Harbour Rd
Lockhart Rd
Wan
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LiChit St
Lung On St
Lun Fa
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WoodRd
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Fung Wong Terr
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ShipSt
Wan Chai
Wan Chai FerryPier Bus Terminus
Wan ChaiFerry Pier
Nam KooTerrace
LockhartRd Market
Visa Office of thePeople's Republicof China
Buses toChina China
TravelService
Hong KongImmigrationDepartment
NewZealandConsulate
AustralianConsulate
2
4 1
9
2425
28
26
30 29
12
17
22
1820
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14
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‚
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‚
To Old BazaarKitchen (50m)
‚
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Books (100m)
‚
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WAN
CHA
I
373
WAN CHAIæ Sights (p107) 26 Amoy ............................................................ B6
1 Central Plaza ...............................................C4 27 Carnegie's.................................................... A42 Golden Bauhinia..........................................C1 Champagne Bar................................ (see 40)3 Hong Kong Academy for Performing 28 Coyote's Bar and Grill ................................ B5
Arts ............................................................A3 29 Delaney's ..................................................... B44 Hong Kong Arts Centre..............................A4 Habitat ............................................... (see 22)5 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition 30 Mes Amis ..................................................... B4
Centre........................................................B3 31 Pawn............................................................. B56 Hong Kong House of Stories .....................C77 Hung Shing Temple ....................................A6 ý Entertainment (p123)8 Khalsa Diwan (Hong Kong) Sikh Hong Kong Arts Centre ......................(see 4)
Temple ......................................................D6 32 Punchline Comedy Club ............................ D39 Old Wan Chai Post Office...........................B6 33 Wanch .......................................................... A4
Pao Sui Loong & Pao Yue KongGalleries ............................................ (see 4) þ Shopping (p123)
10 Wan Chai Market ........................................C6 34 Bunn's Divers ..............................................C535 Chinese Arts & Crafts ................................C3
ú Eating (p114) 36 Cosmos Books............................................ A511 BO Innovation..............................................A5 Daydream Nation ................................(see 4)12 Capital Cafe .................................................D5 Kung Fu Supplies.............................. (see 34)13 Che's Cantonese Restaurant ....................A4 MCCM Bookshop ................................(see 4)14 Fook Lam Moon ..........................................A5 37 Toys shops .................................................. B6
Grissini ...............................................(see 40) 38 Wan Chai Computer Centre...................... B515 Hang Zhou Restaurant...............................C5 39 Wet market..................................................C616 Joi Hing Food Shop.....................................D517 Joon Ko Restaurant ....................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p269)18 La Creperie ..................................................A5 40 Grand Hyatt Hotel ...................................... B319 Liu Yuan Pavilion.........................................A5 41 Harbour View .............................................. A320 Madame Sixety Ate ....................................A5 42 JJ Hotel ........................................................ D521 Mang Ambo's Filipino Restaurant ............B4 43 Luk Kwok Hotel........................................... B422 Nino's Cozinha ............................................B6 44 Metropark Hotel ......................................... A523 Yin Yang .......................................................A6 45 Mingle Place by the Park ........................... D5
46 Regal iClub Hotel ........................................ D5û Drinking & Nightlife (p121) 47 The Burlington II ......................................... A5
24 Agave............................................................B4 48 The Fleming.................................................C425 Amici.............................................................A4 49 Ying King Apartment..................................C5
WAN
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Hing
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æ Sights (p109) 24 Virus .......................................A41 Lin Fa Temple ........................E52 Noonday Gun.........................B3 ý Entertainment (p123)3 Royal Hong Kong Yacht 25 Windsor Cinema ...................C4
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5 Bella Vita ................................B5 27 G.O.D. .....................................A5Citysuper......................(see 30) In Square ..................... (see 25)
6 Farm House ...........................B5 28 Island Beverley......................B47 Fiat Caffe................................A5 Lane Crawford ............(see 30)8 Forum .....................................A4 29 Peoples' Recreation9 Ho Hung Kee..........................A5 Community......................... A5
10 Hong Kee Congee Shop .......E5 30 Times Square ........................ A511 IR 1968 ...................................A5 31 Yiu Fung Store ......................B512 Iroha........................................B5
Irori ...............................(see 22) Ø Sports & Activities (p126)13 Kin's Kitchen..........................E2 32 South China Athletic14 Manor Seafood Association.........................C6
Restaurant ..........................A4 33 Towngas Cooking Centre ....A515 Pumpernickel ........................B316 Sushi Fuku-suke .................. B4 ÿ Sleeping (p269)17 Tai Ping Koon ........................B5 34 Alisan Guest House ..............B418 West Villa ...............................B5 35 Causeway Corner .................A419 Yu ............................................A5 36 Chung Kiu Inn........................B4
37 Holiday Inn Express..............A5û Drinking & Nightlife (p122) 38 J Plus ......................................C5
20 Dickens Bar ...........................B3 39 Lanson Place .........................C521 East End Brewery & Inn 40 Metropark Hotel ...................E4
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Explode......................... (see 12) 43 Regal Hongkong Hotel .........C523 Oriental Sake Bar Yu-Zen ....A4 44 Shama ....................................A5
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1 Hong K
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Victoria Harbour
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Hankow
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Kowloon Mosque& Islamic Centre
Kowloon ParkSwimmingComplex
38
4
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Granville Rd
Hanoi Rd
Tak Shing St
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Mody Rd
ObservatoryRd
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Hillwood Rd
Cameron Rd
Kimberley Rd
Knutsford Tce
Hau Fook St
Carnarvon Rd
Cornwall Ave
TravellerServices
7
28
NewWorldCentre
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5
4
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æ Sights (p142) The One Broadway1 Fook Tak Ancient Cinema...................... (see 35)
Temple ............................... C4 UA iSquare .................. (see 29)2 Former KCR Clock
Tower.................................. C6 þ Shopping (p159)3 Former Kowloon British 26 Chinese Arts & Crafts ..........C6
School................................. D2 27 Curio Alley .............................D44 Former Marine Police 28 David Chan Photo Shop.......E3
Headquarters .................... C6 I.T. ..................................(see 14)Hong Kong Antiquities & 29 iSquare...................................D4
Monuments Office ..... (see 3) 30 Lane Crawford ......................B65 Hong Kong Cultural 31 Page One ...............................C5
Centre................................. C6 32 Premier Jewellery .................D56 Hong Kong Museum of Star Computer City .... (see 26)
Art ....................................... D6 33 Star House.............................C67 Hong Kong Observatory ......E2 34 Swindon Books .....................D48 Hong Kong Space 35 The One..................................D3
Museum & Theatre ........... D6 Venilla Suite................. (see 35)9 Kung Fu Corner .................... D3 36 Yue Hwa Chinese
10 Peninsula Hong Kong ...........D5 Products11 St Andrew's Anglican Emporium...........................D2
Church................................ D2Ø Sports & Activities (p163)
ú Eating (p149) 37 Ocean Sky Divers .................D412 Al Molo....................................B5 38 Wing Chun Yip Man13 Branto.....................................D5 Martial Arts14 Din Tai Fung.......................... C4 Athletic
Gaddi's ......................... (see 10) Association.........................D5Golden Bull...................(see 30)
15 Paramita Vegetarian ÿ Sleeping (p273)House ................................. D4 39 BP International Hotel ......... C1
Stables Grill ................... (see 4) 40 Chungking Mansions ...........D516 Sweet Dynasty ..................... C3 Cosmic Guest House . (see 43)17 Tak Fat Beef Ball .................. C4 Dragon Inn ...................(see 40)
T'ang Court ..................(see 47) Holiday Guesthouse ...(see 40)18 Typhoon Shelter Hing 41 Hop Inn...................................D5
Kee Restaurant ................. D1 42 Kowloon Hotel Hong19 Yé Shanghai...........................C5 Kong ....................................D520 Ziafat ..................................... D4 Mei Lam Guesthouse . (see 43)
43 Mirador Mansion ..................D4û Drinking & Nightlife (p157) New Yan Yan
21 Aqua Spirit .............................C5 Guesthouse ..............(see 40)22 Ned Kelly's Last Stand ........ C4 Park Guesthouse ........(see 40)23 Pacific Coffee Peninsula Hong Kong. (see 10)
Company............................ D2 44 Royal Pacific Hotel &24 Utopia ..................................... D1 Towers ................................B3
Vibes .............................(see 48) 45 Salisbury ................................D546 Sealand House ......................D4
ý Entertainment (p168) 47 The Langham ........................C525 Grand Ocean Cinema ...........C5 48 The Mira .................................D3
Hong Kong Cultural Yan Yan Guest House (see 40)Centre.......................... (see 5)
TSIM SHA TSUI
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Hong KongPolytechnicUniversity
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1
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Hong KongInternationalMail Centre
Hung Hom Bypass
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23 31
5
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6
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E
Eæ Top Sights (p137) 20 Butler......................................A5
Hong Kong Museum of InterContinental LobbyHistory.................................B2 Lounge ...................... (see 36)
Tsim Sha Tsui East 21 King Ludwig Beer Hall ..........A6Promenade ........................ B6 Tapas Bar .................... (see 38)
æ Sights (p142) ý Entertainment (p158)1 Avenue of the Stars ..............A6 22 Dada .......................................A22 Blackhead Point Tower ........A5 23 Hong Kong Coliseum ...........E23 Hong Kong Science
Museum ............................. C3 þ Shopping (p159)4 Middle Road Children's 24 Granville Rd ...........................A3
Playground .........................A6 25 Initial.......................................A35 Rosary Church ......................B2 26 K11...........................................A46 Tsim Sha Tsui East 27 Rise Shopping Arcade .........A3
Waterfront PodiumGarden.................................B5 Ø Sports & Activities (p163)
Gauranga Nityananda .(see 18)ú Eating (p149)
7 Chicken HOF & Soju ÿ Sleeping (p273)Korean.................................B2 28 Butterfly on Prat ...................A4
8 Ching Yan Lee Chiu Chow 29 Chelsea Hotel ........................A4Restaurant .........................A3 30 Empire Kowloon....................A3
Dong Lai Shun .............(see 43) 31 Harbour Plaza Metropolis ...E29 Fook Lam Moon ....................A2 32 Hop Inn on Carnarvon .........A4
10 Good Satay ........................... B4 33 Hotel Icon ..............................D311 Kimberley Chinese 34 Hotel Panorama....................A4
Restaurant ..........................A3 35 Hyatt Regency Tsim Sha12 Lei Garden............................. B4 Tsui ......................................A413 Mandarin Chicken Rice ........A2 36 InterContinental Hong
Sabatini ........................(see 43) Kong .................................... A714 Spring Deer............................A5 37 Knutsford Hotel ....................A2
Steak House ................(see 36) 38 Kowloon Shangri-La.............B515 Tai Ping Koon ........................A3 39 Lee Garden Guest House ....A416 Tandoori Nights ...................A4 40 Mariner's Club....................... A517 Woodlands .............................B5 41 Minden ...................................A518 Yoga Interactive 42 Pinnacle Apartment .............A5
Vegetarian ..........................A2 43 Royal Garden.........................C444 Stanford Hillview Hotel ........A2
û Drinking & Nightlife (p158) 45 Star Guest House .................A319 Bahama Mama's ...................A2
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4 Sino Centre.....................C1 Store ............................C4 26 Madera Hong Kong ......D45 Tin Hau Temple .............C3 14 Elements ........................ A3 27 Nathan Hotel ................. D36 Wholesale Fruit Market C2 15 Protrek ...........................C2 28 New Lucky House .........D47 Yau Ma Tei Theatre.......C2 16 Tak Hing Dried SeafoodC3 29 Novotel ........................... D3
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Piera Chen Coordinating Author, Central, Wan Chai & the Northeast, Kowloon, Macau Born to a Shanghainese father and a Pekingese mother in Hong Kong, Piera is a writer, editor and translator who divides her time between Hong Kong, Běijīng, Vancouver and various exotic holiday destinations, real and imagined. She is an avid traveller, a devoted mother and a passionate collector of life experiences. Piera coauthored the previous edition of this book, as well as Lonely Planet’s
Hong Kong Encounter and China guidebooks. While researching for this edition, one of her greatest joys was constantly challenging herself to see familiar landscapes with borrowed eyes. Besides the chapters listed above, she also wrote Macau’s History & Culture and the Survival Guide, and cowrote the Plan Your Trip section.
Chung Wah Chow The Peak & the Northwest, Aberdeen & the South, New Territories, Out-lying Islands, Day Trips Chung Wah enjoys exploring every nook and cranny both in her hometown of Hong Kong and elsewhere. With an advanced degree in translation studies, an insatiable travel lust and an affinity with obscure words and sounds, Chung Wah merged her talents by becoming a travel writer. She contributed to the previous two editions of this book and coauthored Lonely
Planet’s China. For this edition of Hong Kong, she also wrote the Understand chapters and cowrote the Plan Your Trip section.
Read more about Piera Chen at:lonelyplanet.com/members/PieraChen
Read more about Chung Wah Chow at:lonelyplanet.com/members/cwchow
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98315th edition – Jan 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 850 0© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
= Day Two Wan Chai & the Northeast (p 104 )
M Embrace (man-made) nature at the lovely Hong Kong Park, then head
over to Queen’s Rd East to explore the sights and streets of old Wan Chai. Tram it to Causeway Bay for homewares gift shopping at G.O.D.
Kowloon (p 135 )
R Browse for souvenirs at Chinese Arts & Crafts. Then relax and
people-watch at Middle Road Children’s Playground, before taking afternoon tea in style at the Peninsula. Bus it north to Yau Ma Tei, where you can check out the Tin Hau Temple, Jade Market and traditional shops along Shanghai Street.
Kowloon (p 135 )
N Have your fortune told and catch some Cantonese opera at Temple
Street Night Market.
Lunch Irori (p 116 ) is fabulously Japanese.
Dinner Temple Street Night Market (p 142 ) for cheap food under the stars.
Day One The Peak & the Northwest (p 82 )
M Catch the legendary Peak Tram up to Victoria Peak for stunning views of
the city. Then descend and walk to Sheung Wan, checking out the shopping options along the way. Stop at Man Mo Temple for a taste of history and explore the burgeoning community on Tai Ping Shan Street.
Kowloon (p 135 )
R Take the Star Ferry to Kowloon. Enjoy the views along Tsim Sha Tsui
East Promenade and savour your stroll to the Museum of History for some context to your day’s impressions.
The Peak & the Northwest (p 82 )
N After dinner in Tsim Sha Tsui, take the metro to Soho for drinks and
dancing.
Lunch Hollywood Rd (p 90 ) is bursting at the seams with restaurants.
Dinner Yè Shanghai (p 154 ) serves mod-ern, delicious Shanghainese cuisine.
Top Itineraries
20
Day Four Kowloon (p 135 )
M Start your fourth day with a taichi class by the Tsim Sha Tsui water-
front. Boats to Macau are just around the corner at the China Ferry Terminal – why not hop aboard?
Macau (p 232 )
R Explore the sights around the Largo do Senado. Walk along Rua
Central through much of the Unesco-listed Historic Centre of Macau, including the ruins of the Church of St Paul. Shop for souvenirs at Macau Creations at the foot of the steps. Then cab it to Northern Macau Peninsula to stroll among the designer shops and historic sites in the atmospheric St Lazarus District.
Macau (p 232 )
N Make your way back to the Macau Peninsula to play the tables or sip
cocktails at MGM Grand Macau before catching the ferry back to Hong Kong.
Lunch Clube Militar de Macau (p 246 ) for great Portuguese wining and dining.
Dinner António (p 258 ) dishes up sumptuous Portuguese classics.
Day Three Aberdeen & the South (p 127 )
M Bus it to Aberdeen for a cruise on the charming Aberdeen Harbour,
then head over to Ap Lei Chau to check out the indoor wet market in the old town. Follow with shopping (for bargain designer furniture and clothing) at Hori-zon Plaza and a late lunch inside a spa-cious and attractive furniture shop.
Kowloon (p 135 )
R Spend the rest of the afternoon and early evening admiring temples in
New Kowloon: the Taoist Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple and the Buddhist Chi Lin Nunnery.
Kowloon (p 135 )
N Still in New Kowloon, head to the Ritz Carlton for stellar drinks at
Ozone, the world’s highest bar, then, beset with the munchies, indulge in late-night dim sum at One Dim Sum.
Lunch Tree Cafe (p 132 ) for salads, sandwiches and coff ee.
Dinner Chi Lin Vegetarian (p 156 ) for tasty Chinese vegetarian.
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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