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This instructable explains how to build your own 100 HP (peak)
motor controllerfor use in an electric car or motorcycle
conversion. It can take any voltage up to144v, and the peak current
is 500 amps. The cost of the components is a fewhundred dollars,
which means you can save over $1000 by putting one
togetheryourself. At 144v, you can expect a top speed of around 75
MPH in a car. Check out
http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motor-controller.html
(http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-
Flex Circuits &RigidFlexlenthor.com
Flex Circuits Design toAssembly Thinking Flex ThinkLenthor
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGF/1GX5/GJ2830DB/FGF1GX5GJ2830DB.LARGE.jpg)
About This Instructable
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10/3/14, 9:47 PMHomemade 100 HP Motor Controller for an Electric
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cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404.html)if you want to read
about the whole story!
Experience in soldering is important. If you want to really keep
costs down, amill is helpful, but that work can be outsourced to a
local metal shop.
PCB & PrintedElectronicsgoinsulectro.com
Insulectro is the leading distributor ofPCB & PE
materials.
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Step 1: Get/Make a power board and control board.
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F63/M1R9/GJ285ZEH/F63M1R9GJ285ZEH.LARGE.jpg)
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You are going to need a control board and etched power board.
The powerboard needs to be at least 3 ounce copper. Ebay is a good
place to look for
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCU/N96C/GJ28A1O9/FCUN96CGJ28A1O9.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FON/81X1/GJ2838C5/FON81X1GJ2838C5.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FP9/PDBR/GJ27ZJG2/FP9PDBRGJ27ZJG2.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCA/MUO6/GJ2838C6/FCAMUO6GJ2838C6.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3D/ZFME/GJ28A1O8/F3DZFMEGJ28A1O8.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F42/QXFE/GJ2838CB/F42QXFEGJ2838CB.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3T/GDL1/GJ285ZFM/F3TGDL1GJ285ZFM.LARGE.jpg)
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heavy cheap copper clad PCB. For
example:http://cgi.ebay.com/25-shts-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR-4-060-9-x-12-3oz-/310244821519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483c084a0f(http://cgi.ebay.com/25-shts-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR-4-060-9-x-12-3oz-/310244821519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483c084a0f)
You could print the picture from this link and somehow transfer
it onto a piece ofheavy blank PCB, and etch it with a dremel if you
have a ver y steady hand. The dimensions are 8"x6". This link also
has the G-code that you can useto etch with a CNC mill or you could
give the G-code to a machine
shop.http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Fab_Files(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Fab_Files)
Picture 2 and 3 below is an example of an early power board I
made with aDremel.
You can get a control board from me or you can make the control
board in yourfavorite PCB layout software using the schematic
here::http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf)And
here are some pictures of the PCB
layers:http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf)http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf)http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf(http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf)
A predone control board is Picture 1.
Pictures 7 and 8 are the power board top and bottom. The 8
solder spots arejust where vias were added.
Once you have the 2 boards, you can go to step 2.
Step 2: Drill your metals and isolation strips
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Materials:1/4" x 3/4" x 12" C110 copper bar.Two 3/16" x 3/4" x
10" C110 copper bars.3/4" x 1.5" x 8" aluminum bar.3/8" x 8" x 11"
aluminum plate.3/16" x 3/4" x 8" steel bar.Two 1/16" x 3/4" x 8"
unclad FR4 used in making PCB.1/16" x 6" x 8" unclad FR4 board.
5/16" drill bit (or 3/8" drill bit if you need slop)1/8" drill
bit.3/16" drill bit. (Must allow a #6 screw to fit through)Drill.
Drill Press.
Do all the drilling! It may help to take the big aluminum bar to
a machine shop,since it's not easy drilling through 1.5" of
aluminum accurately. See all thepictures below for notes on hole
locations and drill bit sizes.
Here's a video on how the power section pieces all get bolted
together, withoutthe electronics attached, just so you can see how
it all fits:Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
Step 3: Order the electronic components
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG2/R03J/GJ27ZL4F/FG2R03JGJ27ZL4F.LARGE.jpg)
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Order these components for the control
board:http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board)
And order these components for the power section. If you have
already boughtand drilled the metals on step 2, then don't reorder
them. They are listed hereas
well.http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board)
Step 4: Solder the control board
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F75/ZW5A/GJ286020/F75ZW5AGJ286020.LARGE.jpg)
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Materials:45 or 60 watt soldering iron.0.032" diameter (or so)
rosin core solder
This step takes about 3 or 4 hours. It's very unforgiving. If
you have neversoldered before, you should get help with this. The
ground plane doesn't have"thermals", so it takes some heat to melt
the solder to it. Check out this help filefor soldering the control
board. See pages 2 through
19:http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf(http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf)
Watch for solder bridges (when big globs of solder bridge
isolation gaps). Also,you may want to socket the ATMega168. You can
program the ATMega168 in-system. So, you can solder it in, and then
program it if you want to. Or you canget one preprogrammed.
This video walks you through soldering the control board from
start to finish:
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F35/N8TP/GJ2860GU/F35N8TPGJ2860GU.LARGE.jpg)
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Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
Step 5: Program the ATMega168 Microcontroller
Once the ATMega168 arrives with all the other stuff, you need to
program it withthe motor controller code. Either make your own
code, or use/modify the codebelow.
You can make a very cheap ATMega168 programmer, or buy an AVRISP
MK2:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2621880&k=avrisp
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FK6/5B5B/GJ28603Y/FK65B5BGJ28603Y.LARGE.jpg)
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(http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2621880&k=avrisp)
And download the free AVR Studio development
environment:http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725(http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725)
The hex file of the code is available here. Use
"coug-unified-16k.hex":http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/cougar-v1.11b/hexfiles-m168/(http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/cougar-v1.11b/hexfiles-m168/)
Here's the
code:http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Software(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Software)
The fuse bits are Extended High Low = F8 DC F7. But if you are
usingPonyprog, the fuse bits are 08 DC F7.
If you don't want to bother to program it yourself, then you can
buy apreprogrammed one.
Step 6: Assemble the Power Section
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FL1/F7SS/GJ285OI9/FL1F7SSGJ285OI9.LARGE.jpg)
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There are quite a few parts to this process. The short version
is, you need tobolt together all of metal parts, and solder the 10
MOSFETs, 10 freewheeldiodes, 16 large electrolytic capacitors, and
3 snubber capacitors to the powerboard. Please see pictures below
and the assembly help file, pages 20 through43 for all the gory
details. You will need a 200 or 250w soldering
gun:http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf(http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf)
Step 7: Mount the control section to the power section
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1C/HA14/GJ2831A8/F1CHA14GJ2831A8.LARGE.jpg)
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See this video for directions on how to mount the control board
to the powersection. It also shows how to solder the gate resistors
and the ground wires,and how to mount an enclosure:
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGF/1GX5/GJ2830DB/FGF1GX5GJ2830DB.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FUD/KRCM/GJ285O1A/FUDKRCMGJ285O1A.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCB/SY2U/GJ27Z2XN/FCBSY2UGJ27Z2XN.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRA/LK0A/GJ289THO/FRALK0AGJ289THO.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FP8/NRTF/GJ289THQ/FP8NRTFGJ289THQ.LARGE.jpg)
Homemade 100 HP Motor Controller for an Electric Car by
MPaulHolmes(/member/MPaulHolmes/)
Collection I Made it!
Download
(/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?download=pdf)
8 Steps
Favorite Share
(/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/)
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Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
You can also check out pages 44-46 of the help file
here:http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf(http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/EVstuff%20info/Kit%20Assembly%20Directions%20Updated%20March%204,%202010.pdf)
Get Ready!!! There's only one more step!
Step 8: Drive Away!!!
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FXD/MHC7/GJ65ZHLR/FXDMHC7GJ65ZHLR.LARGE.jpg)
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This is me driving with my car at 72v. Notice that this one had
all 3 copper busbars coming out the same way. That doesn't affect
the functionality of thecontroller.
Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
And here's a video of Joe in Phoenix using that same controller
at 144v:Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
And here's Ben Nelson, the guy on here that made the plug-in
hybrid, doing agravel burnout with his. He's always had a flair for
the dramatic:
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We have a be nice comment policy. Please be positive and
constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment
(/member/afbcom/)
3 years ago Reply (CEMJ3DSGJ65MLTI)
Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
Now go out and build one! Doing it yourself can save you over
$1000.
1-40of 58
Next
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-100-HP-Motor-Controller-for-an-Electric-C/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)
afbcom (/member/afbcom/)
Hey,
Just a thought, you could eliminate a lot of voltage spike
issues by mounting thecontroller as close to the motor as possible.
Any time the length of the wirebetween the motor controller exceeds
the diameter of the wire, the collapsecurrent becomes significant.
Since Vpeak = di/dt, and you have a peak current of~500 amps, if
your switching time is
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(/member/MPaulHolmes/)
3 years ago Reply (C92P10RGJ6EV9AU)
(/member/Tom+Hargrave/)
16 days ago Reply (CSU3C3RI06J8CAD)
(/member/afbcom/)
3 years ago Reply (C8TZVTDGJ6E8QQX)
(/member/MPaulHolmes/)
3 years ago Reply (C7GRT4YGJ6F694V)
I've done some voltage spike tests, and at 500amp, the spikes
areabout 20 or 25v, so it's not too bad. I'm using 200v components,
so at144v, I'm still a fair distance away from danger. The nice
thing is,under heavy current, the battery pack voltage sags, so the
net result isthat the voltage spikes are about 20 or 25v above like
135v in theworst case.
Tom Hargrave (/member/Tom+Hargrave/) MPaulHolmes
To clarify - 500KV spikes are realbut only open loop, where
theinput impedance is very high.You are are clamping the spikesto
25V with your protectioncircuit.
afbcom (/member/afbcom/) MPaulHolmes
Cool!
Not that I doubt you, but where areyou measuring the spikes. The
onesthat I am referring to is the reverseagainst the driving fets
from themotor and supply cables to it. Ifyou're getting results
around 25 voltsthen you have done a damm goodengineering job and
kudos to you sir.
--alex
ps awesome response time
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) afbcom
Hi afbcom! I measured thevoltage spikes from drain tosource of
the mosfets. Everytime the mosfet turns off, thevoltage from drain
to sourcegoes from nearly zero to full packvoltage, and it wants to
keepgoing past pack voltage. I alsouse some polypropylene metalfilm
capacitors to help snub thespikes. My friend in Phoenix hasa video
of the spikes on hisoscilloscope. I'll find it. When Itested it in
my car, I just used apeak voltage detector (like a crabtrap. but
instead of crabs, it trapselectrons. haha):
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3 years ago Reply (CHRKT1QGJHVGRCB)
Safari Power SaverClick to Start Flash Plug-in
jerkey (/member/jerkey/) MPaulHolmes
I can't see exactly where you'reconnecting your
measurementprobe, but it is necessary toconnect both the probe and
theground as closely as possibleto the place you're
actuallymeasuring, becauseinductance is playing a hugepart in what
you're dealing with,and even an inch of wire canhave an effect. The
voltagespikes are a danger inside theMOSFETs so thats where
theprobe should be.
Another issue is that thevoltage spikes are a result offiring
into a reactive load, whichis more like a motor preventedfrom
spinning. A freewheelingmotor (which I heard) will notcause
inductive kickback asmuch as if you lock the parkingbrake and do
it, you should trythat.
A wise teacher of mine whomakes giant stepper-motorcontrollers
(and Aerco pre-amps) says that the key toprotecting your fets is
acombination of small and largediodes (they have
differentproperties) and resistor-capacitor snubbers and
mostimportantly, MOV (Metal OxideVaristors) which are your
first
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(/member/acelondon/)
3 years ago Reply (CQNNJ5GGMX1Q0IO)
(/member/MPaulHolmes/)
3 years ago Reply (C9IEWTOGJHVL8JE)
(/member/afbcom/)
3 years ago Reply (C0SHO2DGJ6E8SF8)
line of defense.
But i definitely know that thespikes are worst when themotor is
stalled.
acelondon (/member/acelondon/) jerkey
In the EV community, we usefreewheeling diodes to take care
ofall the inductive kickback from themotor. Ususally rated at LEAST
thesame as the switching device. MyIGBT controller(inspired by
Paul'sMOSFET controller) will be built for1200 amps, with 1200 amps
offreewheeling diodes, AND be run at750 amps. Should last a while
XD
It's my senior project for college.Great excuse to rip around
campuswith a less than legal electric car!
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) jerkey
I didn't make that video. It wasactually my beta tester. I've
donetesting with a locked rotor, andthe spikes were around 25v,
atleast with my peak detector,which was a diode and
capacitor.electrons could get in and notback out. That was the crab
trapI was referring to above. Alocked rotor has almost
noresistance, so the current ishuge, and the voltage spike
isdi/dt*L_stray, so a larger changein current definitely gives a
largervoltage spike. The nice thing is,there may be optimal ways
ofdoing things, but his controllerhas run for over a year and a
halfin sometimes 110 degreeweather and it's still goingstrong, and
that was notwithstanding my crappyassembly process, since it wasthe
first or 2nd one I put together.
afbcom (/member/afbcom/) MPaulHolmes
This just goes to that what you readin a textbook doesn't
necessarilyapply to the real world! Nice scope.There are commercial
products thataren't as well designed as yours...friggin cool!
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3 years ago Reply (CVKOEP5GJ7MGZC5)
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3 years ago Reply (CPA7O71GJ7MLWU4)
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3 years ago Reply (CQ1OPA1GJ7MM2RO)
(/member/megapix/)
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(/member/afbcom/)
3 years ago Reply (CWS13PLGJ7MH2IV)
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killersquirel11 (/member/killersquirel11/) MPaulHolmes
You could also include a TVSdiode to protect against thespikes
if they are too large
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) killersquirel11
Hi Killersquirel11! Great mindsthink alike! haha. I'm using
theP6KE20A-T transient voltagesuppressor. Nothing goes over20v from
gate to source, andgate to source is rated for up to30v, so it's
kept safe.
Ziggythewiz (/member/Ziggythewiz/) afbcom
"Any time the length of the wirebetween the motor
controllerexceeds the diameter of the wire"
I'm pretty sure every wire I've everused was longer than it's
diameter.
megapix (/member/megapix/) afbcom
Just a little correction on the math for the voltage spike. The
voltage is V =L * di/dt where L is the inductance of the wire. For
a couple of feet of wirethis could be around 1uH (microHenry =
10e-6). So for a 1mSec switchingtime you would have 0.5V, and for a
1uSec switching time you would havea 500V spike. So it is worth
being careful about, but not as severe as yourcalculation.
afbcom (/member/afbcom/) megapix
thankyou for the correction. Now that I think about it, 500kvolt
is a bit largesounding eh?
mihnea1970 (/member/mihnea1970/)
Hi, I can not download the schematics for the control board.
Please help.
nelsonwong90s (/member/nelsonwong90s/) mihnea1970
Hi,
The schematics are availablehere:
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/PCB_Schematics#Open_ReVolt_-_Cougar_500_Amp_DC_motor_controller_.28Rev2C.29(http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/PCB_Schematics#Open_ReVolt_-_Cougar_500_Amp_DC_motor_controller_.28Rev2C.29)
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(/member/kairala/)
1 year ago Reply (CBRUL88HJZ868PZ)
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1 year ago Reply (CEFX9S7HK6XAFK9)
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1 year ago Reply (CDQWILYHD2RYKN3)
(/member/jimmerforpoy/)
2 years ago Reply (CJ0QM4TGXL5XMWE)
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(/member/jongscx/)
2 years ago Reply (CFP0QRDGZACJH7F)
(/member/Nav/)
2 years ago Reply (COB70YYGXL61V2J)
Hope this helps you. :)
kairala (/member/kairala/)
hi, i am from india, want to build electric car as well as a
bike. for electric bike - requires a 36v controller circuit diagram
with componentsspecified. for electric car- i was not able to
download circuit diagram of 144v-500ampscontroller version. so i
hereby request to help me for the above project. email id-
[email protected]
kairala (/member/kairala/)
hi, i am from india. want to build electric car as well as a
bike. for electric bike i require 36v controller circuit diagram
with componentsspecification. for electric car i was not able to
download the circuit diagram of 144v-500ampversion. so i request to
help me for the above. thanking you.
anriocarver (/member/anriocarver/)
What is the price for one 144Volt 500Amp already built. Ready to
use. My email address is [email protected] I leave in
Mauritius.
jimmerforpoy (/member/jimmerforpoy/)
Does this work for all ev conversions under 144 volts?
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) jimmerforpoy
Yes.
jongscx (/member/jongscx/) MPaulHolmes
As a follow-up, Is it possible to"scale down" the design if
I'mnever getting near the144V/500A powerrequirements? Do I just
usefewer mosfets and caps?
Nav (/member/Nav/)
Okay so I am a novice in all things electric car, but I'm
wondering if throwing 4 ofthese controllers into a car with 4
forklift motors somehow connected to the axlewould result in a
400HP car? I'm sure it doesn't work like that but could
someoneplease explain the pros/cons of this to me? Thanks and
awesome instructable!
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MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) Nav
Yes you could.
DieCastoms (/member/DieCastoms/)
Ok, so.. I have what used to be a small-sized 3-wheeled 24-volt
"MobilityScooter". I am building a large RC vehicle out of it.
I need a motor controller for 24 volts that will run the thing
either from a wiredthrottle or eventually a servo output from an RC
receiver OR an actual servomechanically coupled to a pot that is
wired to the controller (This should giveperfectly isolated power
from the vehicle's 24 volt system and the RC's 6 voltsystem,
yes?)
I WANT to have the option to run it via RC or to be able to plug
in a wiredcontroller because the vehicle will be large enough to
sit on when complete.
Can someone please suggest a source for such a controller? I DO
NOT havethe original controller from the Mobility Scooter, or I
would gladly just use it. Iknow I could buy another controller for
the chair or a similar model, but Iwould like to see what else gets
suggested, first.
Thank You!
DieCastoms.
abdellah309 (/member/abdellah309/)
good job Paul, can you post the schemetic of Mosfet stage.I'm
working on electic car project in Algeria.Many thanks,
epuneet (/member/epuneet/)
Is this circuit work for lower power ratings i.e. for 20 Hp
motor
bertzie (/member/bertzie/)
What kind of modifications would need to be done to make it take
170v 2000amp?
IT BITz (/member/IT+BITz/)
COOL
Donotmatthews (/member/Donotmatthews/)
I have a 36v forklift motor, I was wondering if this would
suffice for a electric car?
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) Donotmatthews
Probably! If it weighs at least60 pounds, and has a 1 hourrating
on the name plate of atleast 100 amps it should work
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3 years ago Reply (CP84JQNGKS0W2PQ)
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3 years ago Reply (C3FEYCRGKS0W3Z3)
fine. The voltage rating isalmost meaningless.
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/)
How many quadrants is this thing ?
Steve
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) steveastrouk
I don't know what that means. AllI know is that it's for a DC
motor.There's a single PWM. Reversehappens by putting the car
inreverse, and you go forward byputting the car in 1st, 2nd,
...
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/) MPaulHolmes
Hi, A quadrant is the measure ofmotoring and generating,
inforward and reverse.
1st quadrant. is motoringforward, 2nd quadrant ismotoring
backwards, 3rd isgenerating backwards, and 4this generating
forwards.
You can implement 1st and 2ndquadrant with a relay, you can'tdo
3 and 4th without a fullbridge.
So essentially, can you doregenerative braking ?
Steve
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) steveastrouk
It's intended to just run serieswound DC, which I think
usuallyhas problems with regenerativebraking, since the brushes
areusually advanced, so I didn'tmake it to do
regenerativebraking.
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/) MPaulHolmes
By "advanced", do you meanthe brushes are angled onto thecomm.
?
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3 years ago Reply (CRUUD1AGJC3WNK4)
Steve
MPaulHolmes (/member/MPaulHolmes/) (author) steveastrouk
No, there are different sorts ofbrush timing. neutral
meanforward and reverse can be donebasically the same, and I
thinkregen is easier then. When youphysically move the brushesmore
one way or the otheraround the rotor, it helps toreduce arcing and
lets you run ata higher voltage, but then youcan't run the motor
very well inboth directions, and you can't doregen.
steveastrouk (/member/steveastrouk/) MPaulHolmes
Thanks for that briefing. Tractionmotors are not my usual area
ofexpertise - I usually work withprecision servo motors, with
verylow inertias, gold commutatorsetc !
bumsugger (/member/bumsugger/)
What an absolutely stunning project.............I'm blow away by
the ingenuity ofit all despite not being into all the "save the
planet c*ap" thats floating aroundat the moment.My one reservation
is that,with these electric vehicles all beingso bloody silent,just
what wattage of horn do you need,'specially if'n youve
amotorcycle,lighter and faster than a car,and how do you know that
you're notgoing to "flatten" the battery with all the horn
tooting?
ivanbakas (/member/ivanbakas/) bumsugger
There are off the shelf very lowpower consumption "noisemakers"
that can make anelectric vehicle sound likeanything you want. Tesla
uses iton their cars.Lets not let small things likethat derail a
movement to theright direction
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