Holden Owners Manual - 50s, 60s

8/14/2019 Holden Owners Manual - 50s, 60s

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/holden-owners-manual-50s-60s 1/48

'ould



INDEX

Page

SPECIFICATION ANDREGISTRATION DATA _ 2

GENERAL INFORMATI ON _ 3

DRIVING CAR W H E N NEW _ 5

CONTROLS AND INSTRUMENTS 6

Keys ... _ _ ... . _ 6

Door Locks 6

Choke Control _ _ 7

Starting the Engine _ _ 7

Indicator Lights _ _ _ 8

Oil Pressure _. _ .- _ 8

Water Temperature Indicator _ 8

Clutch Pedal _ _ _ 8

Brake Pedal _ ... _ _ 9

Safety-Shift Gear Lever _ _ 9

Hand Brake Lever _ _ _ 10

Engine Hood Control _ _ 10

Lighting Control _ _ _ 11

Fuel Gauge _ _ _ 12

Speedometer _ _. _ _ 12

Windscreen Wiper Control _ 12

Cowl Ventilator -. _ - 12

Front Seat Adjuster _ _ 12

Body Ventilation - 13

GENERAL LUBRICATION ' _ 14

Engine Lubrication _ _ _ 14

When to Change Crankcase Oil 15

Lubrication First 300 Miles _ 15

Lubrication After 300 Miles ... 1

S.A.E. Viscosity Numbers _ 16

Maintaining Oil Level - 16

Water Pump - 16

Generator

Distributor _ - I"?

Air Cleaner _ - 1^

Gear Shift -• 1"

Universal Joints _ - - 1 7

3 M - I 1 / 5 8

Rear Axle - -Gear Box . ..

Lubricant Additions

Front Wheel Bearings _

Rear Wheel Bearings

Spring Shackles

Shock Absorbers _

Steering Gear

Chassis LubricationBody Lubrication _

Lubrication Chart _

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Ways to Save Petrol and Oil

Safety Built into Your Car

Highway Safety

Care of the Finish _

Tyres and their Care

Use of Jack _ ._ _

Changing Front Wheels

Changing Rear Wheels

Cooling System

Radiator Filler Cap _

Fan Belt ...

Cleaning Fuel Pump Bowl

Clutch . .- _ -

Brakes

Electrical System _

Battery %

Sârk piii^';*t^

^-oi Lamp Bulbs

Circuit Breaker

:H Partsil Numbers

MA'

Page

. 18

. 18

. 18

- 19

- 19

_ 19

_ 19

_ 19

_ 19

_ 20

- 22

_ 24

_ 2i -

_ 26

_ 26

_ 28

_ 30

- 32

- 32

- 32

- 33

- 33

- 33

- 34_ 34

- 35

_ 36

- 36

- 37

- 37

_ 41

_41

... 42

10 Mile Inspection

tment _ 43

ER'S WARRANTY 44



IMPORTANT

ike

Qivner

THE final test of any product is its performance in the hands

of the owner, and this can be said in particular of things

mechanical, among which the modern motor vehicle holds a very

prominent place.

t

Over the comparatively few years since its inception, the

Holden has more than justified our claim that here was a car

ideally suited to Australians and Australian conditions. Manythousands of Holden owners bear witness to this fact, and in wel

coming you to their ranks, we do so with complete cOnfidenc

that the product you have chosen will fulfil your every expectation.-

In your new Holden are crystallized the latest developments

in automotive engineering, research and styling; in fact, our en

gineers feel that they have built just about everything into the car-

except the skill and expertness of the driver, and on this poW_we ask you to take just a little time to review the various featufle^

and equipment that are so important from your view point as a

driver. C\ \

In producing this Owner Manual, it has been our aim to give

in a simple and readable manner the information necessary for

operation, care and general maintenance. We suggest that you get*'

acquainted with your car by reading this book carefully and then

make arrangements with your Holden Dealer to ensure that themaintenance programmF is r r ied out regularly.

It is only logical that the best service for this fine car is pro

vided at tbfe Sdrvice Stations of our Authorised Holden Dealers

througho^Mie countrv.

Here^HB the attention of an organisation devoted

to your i ™ ^ tory trained mechanics, specialised equip

ment, an(B|onsttt..L ô..ract with the men who designed and builtyour car. M a ^ use of their facilities to ensure that you obtain the

enjoyment ycM should experience from your new car.

We vîsh you many miles of carefree motoring.



ecificationS an 2bata

ENGINE NUMBER—On Machined Pad, right hand side of

Engine, forward of Distributor.BODY NUMBER—Plate attached to front of Dash, left side.

VEHICLE SERIAL NUMBER—On Upper Flange of right hand

side Frame Member, between Front Cross Member Mounting

Bolts.

LOAD CAPACITY (Utility and Panel Van)—On Plate attachedto Front of Dash on left side.

WHEELBASE ...

TYRE PRESSURES-Standard & Business Sedan

Special Sedan

Utility and Panel Van:

5.50—15 X 4 ply (Std.)

5.90—15 X 6 ply (Opt.)

5.50-

5.90-

103 in.

-15 X 4 ply

-15 x 4 ply

Light Load

Full Load

Light Load

Full Load

F R O N T

24 lbs.

22 lbs.

24 lbs.

24 lbs.

22 lbs.

22 lbs.ENGINE—

Number of Cylinders

Bore ...

Stroke

Horsepower (R.A.C. Rating)

Piston Displacement

Compression Ratio

Firing OrderCAPACITIES—

Petrol Tank

Engine (Oil)

Cooling System

Gear Box

Rear Axle

Six

3 in.

3 - i n .

2 1 . 6

132 .5 cu. in.6.5 to 1

1.5.3.6-2-4

I Galloi|s3 Quarts8 Quarts1-i Pints2i Pints

ADJUSTMENTS—

Valve Clearance (Hot)—InletExhaust

Distributor Point Opening

Spark Plug Gap

lutch Pedal—Free Movement ...

Part l i p . 7408268

.008 in.

.012 in.

.016 in.-.020 in.

.030 in.

I in.

R i ' A R

24 lbs22 lbs

26 lbs

32 lbs

24 lbs

30 lbs



ER'S M A N U A L

ormation

1. Pre-Delivery Conditioning —Before delivery the Dealer makes a final

inspection of the vehicle in accorcknce with forms supplied by General

Motors-Holden's Ltd. He will see that the vehicle is properly adjusted

and lubricated, that the standard tools and equipment are with the vehicle

and that the vehicle as delivered to the Owner is prepared to give satis

factory performance from the start.

2 Preventive Service-^Contingent upon the Owner making his vehicle

available to the Dealer from whom it was purchased, at about the specified

mileages and within the warranty period, the Dealer will perform without

charge for labour, the ""1000 Mile" and "2000 Mile" inspections and

adjustments listed on Page 43 of this Manual.

3. Warranty Protection —The Owner enjoys the full protection of the

Standard Warranty, a statement of which appears on Page 44. There will

be no charge to the Owner for labour or material when parts are required

because of defective material or workmanship during the warranty period.

This warranty protection shall not apply to any vehicle which has been

subject to misuse, negligence or accident.

4. Technical Advice—At regular intervals of 1000 miles after the 2000

mile inspection, or at any time he feels the vehicle is not performing

properly, the Owner should deliver his vehicle to the Dealer for inspec

tion and expert advice. Although these inspections are free of cost to the

Owner, a charge will be made for any work performed as a result of them

at the prevailing rates.

You willfolder attthe Light!

of your

Be sure to read it

for your own

protection.



THE H O L D E I ' t



y. VEER'S M A N U A L

^brivin^ (Compartment

riving (Car wit en ew

It is advisable that you limit driving speeds during the first

2000 miles of operation in order that the closely fitted parts will

"wear-in" smoothly.

Recommended Run-in Schedule for the first 2 0 0 0 miles-

(a) Vary speed through the whole range up to 50 m.p.h. but

avoid sustained high speeds.

(b) Aloid fast acceleration.

The following should be observed at all t imes-

Do not hesitate to s h i f t gears to avoid overloading the engine.

Do not race engine when cold or when car is not in motion.

See that your car is lubricated at regular intervals in accord

ance with the recommendations made in the following pages.



THE H O L D E N

dontt'ois and^nitrumentd

The driver of a car should familiarize himself with the variouscontrols provided for its proper handling. This does not applyto th? beginner alone, as although there are many points of similarity among all cars, there are also important differences.It is not wise, regardless of previous experience, to drive a newor different make of car before fully understanding what eachcontrol is for and how to use it.

Keys—Right here seems the best placeto say a word about the keys that camein your car.

The key with the hexagon head fitsthe ignition and front door locks, whilethe other is used exclusively for the rear

trunk compartment (Sedan) and in theUtility and Panel Van for the Tool andSpare Wheel Compartment. In addition, the Panel Van has a separate keyfor the rear door. Remove the "knock

out" number and keep it in a safe place to be used if your keysare lost or mislaid and duplicates are required.

Door Locks—To lock the doors from the inside, push down thesmall control button on the window moulding of each door. This

disconnects the outside door handles so that they cannot be usedto open the doors. Without the useof a key, all doors can be lockedfrom the outside by pushing thecontrol button down after the door,has been opened. Then close ttdoor while holding the outside dchandle all the way down. Unl^

the outside door handle is heldthis position, the inside lock controlbutton will return to its unlockedposition.

Caution: Be careful not to leave the key inside the car whenusing this method of locking, as the only means of unlocking thedoor fiom the outside is with a key.



rO W N E R'S M A N U A L

—ratT

Choke Control —When starting a cold engine it is necessary toprovide a fuel mixture richer in petrol than is ordinarily required.

The choke is manually operated andis inter-connected with the Carburettor

Throttle Control in such a manner thatthe proportionate mixture of air and

i ^ i H petrol is provided to ensure ease of starting under all conditions.

However, its correct use is extremelyimportant; if improperly handled it

may affect the life of the engine by thethinning effect on the lubricating oil of unburned petrol leaking by the pistons

(see "Starting the Engine").

The choke should not be used if the engine retains any heat

from previous running without first attempting to start the engine

with its normal fuel mixture.

Starting the Engine—Before starting the engine, see that thegearshift lever is in the neutral position.

When Starting with a Warm Engine

ry) Turn on the ignition switch.

(2 ) Press starter button firmly, release when engine starts.

(3 ) If engine does not start readily, use choke sparingly. Inhot weather, or when the engine is warm, it is usually possible tostart with very little choking, or none at all.

When Starting with a Cold Engine-

(1 ) Depress clutch pedal.

( 2 ) Turn on ignition switch.

( 3 ) Pull choke control button to"full out" position.

( 4 ) Press the starter button firmlyand release it when the engine starts.

( 5 ) Adjust the choke control to theposition required for smooth operationduring the warm up period.



THE H O L D E N

Do not pump the accelerator while starting and do not racethe engine immediately after starting. Push the choke control

button all the way in as soon as the engine temperature will permit smooth running with button in this position.

Indicator Lights—At the left of the Instrument group there isa circular panel marked GEN. (Generator), OIL (Oil Pressure),TEMP. (Water Temperature).

Immediately the ignition switch

is turned on two red lights will ap

pear — one for Ignition and theother for Oil Pressure. The former

indicates that cur;:ent is being taken

from the battery for the ignition

and will remain on until engine is

started and the generator com

mences to charge the battery. At

this stage the light will go out.

Oil Pressure—As soon as the engine starts the "Oil" warning

light should go out indicating that the engine lubricating system

is working satisfactorily. If the sign remains illuminated, stop the

engine at once and have the cause investigated.

Water Temperature Indicator—While the cooling system of the engine is automatically controlled there are certain abnormal

conditions of operation under which overheating may occur. Awarning that this condition exists is providei^y a red light andwhen this appears the engine should h ^ lwnd allowed tocool off before proceeding.

WARNING: D O not attempt to r

the engine cools down (see Page 33

cap until

Clutch Pedal—By means of this controltn^^êr required in

putting the car in motion may be gradually and smoothly appliedto the drive system.

When the clutch pedal is in its normal position, the clutch is

engaged and the engine is directly connected to the transmission.



O W N E R S M A N U A L

By depressing the pedal, the clutch is released and the engine

disconnected from the transmission, permitting the shifting of the

transmission gears.To assure maximum clutch efficiency and long life of the

clutch parts, there should be

I in. of free pedal travel before

the clutch starts to disengage

(see Page 3 5 ) .

Brake Pedal—Depressing this

pedal applies the four-wheelservice brakes.

Safety-Shift Gear Lever — Movement of the gear shift lever,

mounted on the steering column below the steering wheel, requires

only a very small percentage of the force netessary to shift gears

with the conventional gear shift lever.

The gear shift lever may be

placed in any one of five positions — neutral, reverse, first,second and third. The travel of

the lever is the same as that

of the conventional floorboardlever, except that it moves in a

vertical plane instead of a horizontal plane. The operation of the lever in engaging the gearsconsecutively is as follows:—

1. See that gear shift lever

is in neutral positi^^^ver may

be moved up 9§(l^^m) •2. First ^peeSr^vi th clutch pedal depressed, raise lever

toward steerinâvheel and pull toward the rear of the car until

it is fully engaged in first speed location; then gradually release

clutch pedal.3. Second Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, push lever

toward the front of car. Lever will cross through neutral positionmoving away from steering wheel and engage second speed posi

tion. Release clutch pedal.



10 THE H O L D E N

4. Third Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, pull lever

toward the rear of the car until lever has reached the end of its

travel into third speed position.5. Reverse: With car at a standstill, depress clutch pedal,

raise lever, and push forward.

NOTE: A return spring at the lower end of the control shaft

automatically returns the gear shift lever to the high speed side

as soon as the lever is moved to the neutral position. Before 1st

or reverse gear is engaged, it is, therefore, necessary to lift the

lever against the spring pressure.

Hand Brake Lever — The handbrake lever is inter-connected withthe rear service brakes and is usedfor holding the car when parked orwhen about to get under way up asteep grade.

Fitted with a positive T-griphandle, it pulls straight out frombeneath the instrument panel on theright hand side. When releasing,the handle must be turned at right angles to the position illustrated.

Engine Hood Control—The hood is of the alligator jaw type,

opening at the front, and has a concealed lock under the forepart of the hood for proteaion of the engine compartment

contents.

The hood lock is operated by acontrol located under the right sideof the instrument panel. The hoodlock is released by pulling out thecontrol knob.* This raises the hood

one inch, sufficient opening to enable you to release the safety catchlocated under the forepart of thehood, by pulling catch forward.

*Be sure to push knob in again so that

hood can be locked.



O W N E R ' S M A N U A L

Once this catch is released,

the hood can be completely

raised and secured in theopen position by the stay rod.

The remote control lock en

sures the hood cannot be

opened when the car is left

unattended, providing the

car doors are locked.

Lighting Control — The

headlamps, parking lamps,

and tail lamp are controlled

by a single switch operated

by a knob on the right

side of the instrument panel,

above the starter button.

When pulled out half way, the parkinglamps, tail lamp and dash lamps are

lighted. When pulled out all the way,

the headlamps, tail lamp and dash

lamps are lighted.

By turning the light control knob,any degree of instrument cluster lighting may be obtained, or the instrumentlights may be completely turned off.

The direction of the headlamp beam

may be changed by pressure on the foot

switch located to the left of theclutch pedal. For city driving, thehand switch knobjshould be all theway out and the foibt switch should

be in that position which throwsthe light nearest the car. -^tt

To throw the light farther aheadfor driving on the open road, depress the foot switch again.



THE HOLDEN

Fuel Gauge —An electrically oper

ated petrol gauge indicates the fuel

supply when the ignition switch is

turned on.

Speedometer—The speedometer

is of the circular type and is located

in the centre of the instrument

cluster.

In a small opening at the 50-mile mark, a red light shows

whenever the headlamps are lighted on the upper beam designed

for driving outside of cities and towns.

Windscreen Wiper Control —

Vacuum operated wipers are used

for cleaning a large vision area on

both windshield glasses. Adjust

able speed control is obtained by

turning a knob located on top of

instrument panel at centre.

Cowl Ventilator—^The cowl ven

tilator is opened and closed by

means of the handle located below

the centre of the instrument panel

It opens t^|||||ree positions, and

is screened to prevent insects get

ting into the car.

Front Seat Adjuster—The thumb knob to release the front seat

adjusting mechanism is at the right hand end of the front seat.

Upon pressing knob with the thumb, the seat can be easily moved

forward or backward until the proper location is reached to afford

maximum comfort for the driver.



O W N E R ' S M A N U A L 13

BODY VENTILATION

Any desired amount of

ventilation can be obtained

by means of the Holden

No - Draft ventilation sys

tem.

The forward sections of the front door windows are

pivoted at the top and bottom to form Ventipanes,and can be adjusted individually to any desiredposition.

A few of the more com

mon uses to which this ven- •£

rilation system can be put are:—

Cooling Car in Hot Weather: By turning the Ventipanes

completely around, air can be "scooped" into the body. At the

same time, the rear windows can be closed if desired to eliminate

dust.

Preventing Drafts: Adjusting the Ventipanes to the proper

angle prevents the air from flowing in directly to the rear of the

car, but causes it to be deflected against the windscreen and instrument panel so that it is diffused throughout the car. The rear

section of both front door windows and the entire rear door

windows can be raised or lowered in the conventional manner by

means of a convenient regulator, as required.

Preventing Clouding: Adjusting the Ventipanes to the proper

angle deflects sufficient air against windscreen to maintain outside

air temperature on the inside of the windscreen glass, thus preventing "clouding." With the Ventipanes in this position, rain

or snow is deflected away from the Ventipane openings and the

driver and passengers are not exposed as they are in ordinary cars

when the windows are lowered.

The Cowl Ventilator, already mentioned, provides additional

ventilation.



14 THE H O L D E N

êneraioCuLrication

Your Dealer is equipped to render complete Lubrication Ser

vice. "We recommend that you take advantage of his modern

equipment and trained men.

Lubricants are less expensive than repair bills, and should be

applied regularly if you are to obtain a maximum of useful service

from your car. It is, consequently, important that the proper grade

of lubricants be used in accord with a definite schedule.

In your selection of the proper brand of oil, it is desirable to

consider the reputation of the refiner or marketer. He is respon

sible for the quality of his product and his reputation is the car

owner's best indication of quality.

Engine Lubrication—Your use of the proper engine oil is of

great importance in obtaining maximum performance and satisfaction from your car.

It is imperative that the recommended light oils be used inthe engine during the "breaking-in" period.

Light oils assure a better "breaking-in" of the engine, as they

allow ease of starting the engine, prompt flow of a sufficient

quantity of oil to the bearings, less friction between moving parts,

less wear of moving parts, etc.

The erroneous impression still exists in some localities that

the heavier the engine oil the better it will lubricate. Exhaustive

research over a period of years has proved conclusively that a

heavier grade of lubricating oil than recommended by the manu

facturer is definitely harmful to the engine for the following

reasons:—•

A. Heavier oils do not reach the working parts as quickly

when the engine is first started and this may cause premature and rapid wear.

B. After starting, heavier oils do not lubricate closely fittedparts as well as the light oils recommended, which also isa factor in engine wear.

C. Heavier oils increase internal engine friction, thereby re

sulting in higher fuel consumption and loss of power.




D. Heavier oils are responsible for hard starting troubles

during cold weather.

E. The lighter oils now recommended aid the engine in

running cooler during warm weather operation.

It is advisable to protect the engine in your car by using at

all times the exact grade of lubricating oil specified in this book.

Purchase a good quality of the correct factory recommended grade

of engine oil.

When to Change Crankcase Oil — To ensure continuation of best performance, low maintenance cost and long engine life, it

is necessary to change the crankcase oil whenever it becomes con

taminated with harmful foreign materials. Under normal driving

conditions, draining the crankcase and replacing with fresh oil at

periods of not more than 2000 miles is recommended.

Under adverse driving conditions it may become necessary to

drain the engine oil more frequently. These are some of theconditions under which oil should be changed more frequently:—

Dusty roads or dust storms causing contamination of engine

oil.

Short runs, frequent starts in cold weather, which increase

"dilution" and water condensation in crankcase.

Hard driving, which thickens oils and may interfere with easy

starting in cold weather.It is always advisable to let the engine reach normal operating

temperature before draining the crankcase. The benefit of drain

ing is, to a large extent, lost if the crankcase is drained when the

engine is cold as some of the suspended foreign material will

cling to the sides of the oil pan and will not drain out readily

with the cold, slow moving oil.

Lubrication First 300 Miles —The crankcase of the engine, asdelivered to you, is filled with special light bodied oil. Use thisoil during the first 300 miles.

At the end of the first 300 miles, drain the crankcase—whenhot—and refill to the proper level with the recommended oil(S.A.E. 2 0 ) .



16 THE H O L D E N

Lubrication After 300 Miles-The engine oil should be changed

at the end of the first 300 miles and again at 1000 and 2000 mileswhen the free inspections and adjustments are made. Thereafter,

changes should be made at intervals of not more than 2000 miles,

"Break-in" oils or special compounds are entirely unnecessary.

Likewise it is unnecessary to add any lubricant to the petrol.

S.A.E. 20 oil will provide satisfactory "year around" service

and will permit better all round performance than will the heavier

bodied oils. Therefore, when refilling or topping up, use a good

quality S.A.E. 20 oil.

NOTE: For high speed driving in temperatures consistently

above 90°F. an S.A.E. 30 oil may be used.

S.A.E. Viscosity Numbers—The viscosity of a lubricant is simply

a measure of its body or fluidity. The oils with the lower S.A.E.

numbers are lighter and flow more readily than do oils with the

higher numbers.

The S.A.E. numbers constitute a classification of lubricants in

terms of viscosity or fluidity, but with no reference to any other

characteristic or property.

These S.A.E. numbers have been adopted by practically all oil

companies and no difficulty should be experienced in obtaining

the proper grade of lubricant.

Maintaining Oil Level—The oil gauge rod is

marked "Full" and "Low" with the space be

tween the two level lines showing "3 Pints."

The oil level should be maintained between the

two lines, neither going above the "FULL" line

nor imder the "LOW" line. The showing of

"3 Pints" between the two lines clearly indi

cates the exact amount of oil necessary to top

the level up to the "FULL" mark, which will

obviate over-filling. Check the oil level frequently and add only

sufficient oil as necessary. Always be sure the crankcase is full

before starting on a long drive.

Water Pump—The water pump is of the ball bearing type, lubricated at the time of manufacture and is permanently sealed.This type of pimip requires no additional lubrication.

I




1

Generator—Every 1000 miles put a few drops of a light oil, or

engine oil, in the oil cup. Do not "over-oil" as excessive oil willflow in to the commutator, causing it to become "gummed up"

or sticky.

Distributor -The distributor is equipped with a lubrication cup.Fill this cup with chassis lubricant, or equivalent soft, smooth

lubricant and turn down one full turn every 1000 miles.

In addition to this, remove the rotor button and, by means of an oil can, put a few drops of light engine oil on the felt pad.

Air Cleaner —Under ordinary conditions, where the car is driven

on pavement or surfaced roads, the air cleaner filter element and

reservoir should be cleaned and the reservoir refilled every 2000

miles. This is done by removing the top cover and element from

the air cleaner, and rinsing the element in petrol or kerosene and

then letting it drain and dry. After the reservoir has been refilledto the indicated oil level with S.A.E. 50 engine oil, the filter

• element can then be assembled to the air cleaner.

Under extreme conditions, when the car is operated on gravel

or dusty roads all the time, this cleaning operation must be done

at more frequent intervals.

Gear Shift—The gear shift control linkage is lubricated at assembly and requires further lubrication only when the parts aredisassembled.

Universal Joints—The universal joints, located at the front and

rear ends of the propeller shaft, permit it to move vertically with

the rear axle. The universal joints contain accurately machined,needle-like bearings that ensure a minimum loss of power between

engine and rear axle. These small bearings also provide long life

of all associated parts. They are lubricated and sealed at the timeof manufacture, and under normal use should not require addi

tional lubrication for at least 25,000 miles.

Wheel Bearing Grease only should be used for lubricating

the pre-packed universal joint bearings.



18 THE H O L D E N

NOTE: The universal joints on all Utilities, Panel Vans and

some Business Sedans are fitted with lubrication nipples, andthese should be .lubricated with S.A.E. l40 E.P. oil every 1000

miles.

Rear Axle—The Hypoid Rear Axle requires a special lubricant

to ensure satisfactory operation under all driving conditions. It isfilled at the factory with S.A.E. 90 special hypoid lubricant to

GM 4655M specifications, which is the only recommended lub

ricant.

Seasonal or periodic changes are not required; however, oil

level should be checked at regular intervals. If topping up isnecessary, use only the recommended lubricant. While it is not

necessary to change the lubricant in the rear axle unless the unitis disassembled for repairs, changes can be made if desired pro

vided a lubricant to GM 4655M specifications is used.

CAUTION: Straight mineral oil gear lubricants must not beused in Hypoid Rear Axles.

Gear Box—The only maintenance required from the owner isthat of ensuring that the gear box is lubricated in accordance with

the directions given on the lubrication chart accompanying thisbook. When topping up, use S.A.E. 90 all purpose E.P. Gear

Lubricant.

While seasonal changes of the lubricant are not required, it

is recommended that the gear box be drained and refilled with

S.A.E. 90 all purpose E.P. gear lubricant approximately every

10,000 miles.

Lubricant Additions —^The lubricant level in the axle and gearbox housings should be checked periodically. It is important that

when topping up, lubricant to above specifications be used.

When checking lubricant level in gear box or rear axle theimit being checked should be at operating temperature. With unitat operating temperature the lubricant should be level with bottom of the filler plug hole. If the lubricant level is checked withthe unit cold the lubricant level should be ^ inch below the fillerplug hole.




Spring Shackles—The spring shackles are equipped with rubber

bushes and all lubricants should be kept clear of these parts.

Shock Absorbers—Sealed type shock absorbers are used and

require no further maintenance other than replacement if necessary.

Steering Gear —The steering gear is filled at the factory with a

special all-season gear lubricant. Seasonal change of this lubricant

is unnecessary and the housing should not be drained. Whenever

required, additions should be made, using a lubricant which, at

low temperatures, is fluid and will not "channel" or cause "hard

steering" and which will provide satisfactory lubrication under

extreme summer conditions. Steering gear lubricants conforming

to GMH Specifications are marketed by all major oil companies.

All purpose E.P. 90 gear lubricant is satisfactory.

The pipe plug is installed in its particular location in the

steering gear housing to prevent over-lubrication, generally occa

sioned by the use of a pressure gim. Over-lubrication of this unit

might result in forcing lubricant up the steering gear tube to thehorn button and steering wheel.

Chassis Lubrication — For chassis lubrication, consult the lub

rication chart, which shows the points to be lubricated and how

often the lubricant should be applied.

Front Wheel Bearings—To lubricate the bearings it is necessary

to remove the wheel hubs and when re-installing these great care

must be taken to properly adjust the bearings. This operation

requires mechanical experience and it is recommended, therefore,

that the lubrication of the bearings be left to your Dealer, who

is properly equipped to make the necessary adjustments safely and

efficiently.

Rear Wheel Bearings — The rear wheel bearings are of the

"sealed" type and require no lubrication maintenance.



20 THE H O L D E N

Body Lubrication—Normal use of a car causes metal-to-metal

movement at certain points in the body. Noise, wear and improperoperation at these points will result when a protective film of

lubricant is not provided.

Servicing and lubrication of the undermentioned points should

be an integral part of lubrication service:—

Engine Hood CatchEngine Hood Lock

Door LocksCowl Vent LinkageEngine Hood Hinges

Door Hinges and Hold-Open ClipsDoor Check Link PinsDeck (Boot) Lock

Deck (Boot) HingesWindshield Wiper Linkage

Glove Box Hinge and Lock

Tool Compartment Hinge(Utility and Panel Van)

Engine Hood Lacing ... CASTOR BASE RUBBER LUBRICANT

NON-STAINING

GREASE or ZINCOXIDE GREASE

(use sparingly on partslikely to be contacted by

clothing)

Door Lock Striker PlatesDoor Lock Plungers

Tail Gate Striker Plates(Utility and Panel Van)

Tail Gate Plungers(Utility and Panel Van)

Deck (Boot) Lid Handle Locking

Barrel

Door Locking Barrels

NASCO SOLIDOIL

POWDERED

GRAPHITE

(apply through key

aperture)

WARNING: Remove all lubricants that may have lodged on the

paint finish.




HOLDENLUBRICATION

CHART

(Overleaf)



o Lubricate every

1000 miles OLubricate every

2000 miles

Lubricate every

5000 miles

Lubricate when

dismantled in service

1. Engine: Drain when hot and refill with

S.A.E. 2 0 at intervals of not more than 2 0 0 0

miles (see Page 15).

2. Upper and lower c ontrol arm pivot pins:

Lubricate with chassis lubricant every lOOO

miles—2 each side.

3. Lower control arm pivot shaft and inner

upper control arm pivot pins. Lubricate with

chassis lubricant every 1 0 0 0 miles—4 each

side.

4. Tie rods: Lubricate with chassis lubricant

every 1 0 0 0 miles—2 each side.

5. Accelerato r linkage and shaft: Small quan

tity of cup or chassis grease at pedal bearing

ends and linkage joints every 1 0 0 0 miles—

6 points.

Steering box: Check and add steering gear

lubricant as required every 5 0 0 0 miles.

Distributor: Lubricate cam surface lightly

with petroleum jelly. Turn grease cup one

full turn. Refill grease cup with chassis lub

ricant as required. In addition to this, re

move the rotor butto* and, by means of an

oil can, put a few dr ps of light engine oil

on the felt pad. '

Universals: Repack ^nly when dismantled

in service (see Page 1 7 ) .

NOTE : The universal joints on utilities,

panel vans and some Business Sedans are

fitted with lubrication nipples which should

be lubricated with S.A.E. 1 4 0 E.P. oil at

least every 1 0 0 0 miles.

King pins: Lubricate with chassis lubricant


1 0. Front wheel bearings: Repack with wheel

bearing lubricant every 5 0 0 0 miles or at

least twice yearly.

1 1 . Generator: 2 or 3 drops of light oil every

1 0 0 0 miles.

12 . Steering idler arm: Lubricate with chassis

lubricant every 1 0 0 0 miles.

1 3 . Carburettor and oil filler air cleaners: Clean

with petrol or kerosene—oil with S.A.E. 5 0

engine oil every 2 0 0 0 miles.

14 . Starter motor: Oil absorbent bushes—re-oil

during overhaul.

15 . Transmission: Check level every 1 0 0 0 miles,

refill every 1 0 , 0 0 0 miles.

1 6. Rear axle: Check level every 1 0 0 0 miles,

follow recommendations on Page 1 8 . ,



o Lubricate every

1000 miles OLubricate every

2000 miles

Lubricate every

5000 miles

Lubricate when

dismantled in service

1. Engine: Drain when hot and refill with

S.A.E. 2 0 at intervals of not more than 2 0 0 0

miles (see Page 1 5 ) .

2. Upper and lower c ontrol arm pivot pins:

Lubricate with chassis lubricant every lOOO

miles—2 each side.

3. Lower control arm pivot shaft and inner

upper control arm pivot pins. Lubricate with

chassis lubricant every 1 0 0 0 miles—4 each

side.

4. Tie rods: Lubricate with chassis lubricant


5. Accelerato r linkage and shaft: Small quan

tity of cup or chassis grease at pedal bearing

ends and linkage joints every 1 0 0 0 miles—

6 points.

Steering box: Check and add steering gear

lubricant as required every 5 0 0 0 miles.

Distributor: Lubricate cam surface lightly

with petroleum jelly. Turn grease cup one

full turn. Refill grease cup with chassis lub

ricant as required. In addition to this, re

move the rotor butto* and, by means of an

oil can, put a few dr ps of light engine oil

on the felt pad. '

Universals: Repack ^nly when dismantled

in service (see Page 1 7 ) .

NOTE : The universal joints on utilities,

panel vans and some Business Sedans are

fitted with lubrication nipples which should

be lubricated with S.A.E. 1 4 0 E.P. oil at

least every 1 0 0 0 miles.

King pins: Lubricate with chassis lubricant


1 0. Front wheel bearings: Repack with wheel

bearing lubricant every 5 0 0 0 miles or at

least twice yearly.

1 1 . Generator: 2 or 3 drops of light oil every

1 0 0 0 miles.

12 . Steering idler arm: Lubricate with chassis

lubricant every 1 0 0 0 miles.

1 3 . Carburettor and oil filler air cleaners: Clean

with petrol or kerosene—oil with S.A.E. 5 0

engine oil every 2 0 0 0 miles.

14 . Starter motor: Oil absorbent bushes—re-oil

during overhaul.

15 . Transmission: Check level every 1 0 0 0 miles,

refill every 1 0 , 0 0 0 miles.

1 6. Rear axle: Check level every 1 0 0 0 miles,

follow recommendations on Page 1 8 . ,



24 T H E H O L D E N

(Care and ^YFjainL ainienance

Ways to Save Petrol and Oil

How many miles do you get to the gallon? Unless you arethe exception, you can get still greater mileage. And without cost!

Just eliminate a few of the faults which most of us have andwhich tend to waste petrol and oil. Some of the most common

ones are listed here. Study them! Correct them and you'll saveon fuel bills. .

Quick Get-Aways are thrills that cost money.Tramping suddenly on the accelerator, or pumping it, feeds yourmotor more petrol than it can use. Quick get-aways, too, wastepetrol by carrying you too far in second gear, and can also causedamage to gears in gear box and differential. Get away easilyand smoothly to save petrol. Slip into high gear at 20 to 25 miles

per hour.Sudden Stops are sometimes necessary, but always

use extra petrol. Stopping gradually, with the engine braking,

saves money—and brake lining, too.

High Speeds are more than dangerous At 70

miles per hour your motor uses almost twice as much petrol, to go

one mile, as it does at 20 miles per hour. Economical cruising

speeds are 30 to 45 M.P.H.

Soft Tyres are hard on your petrol bill. They

mean more road friction. This gives your motor unnecessary work

to do and makes it use extra petrol. Keep the extra money in

your pocket by keeping your tyres inflated to the recommended

pressures. r« j •

Parking m the Sun wastes petrol. Park your car

in the shade, if you can, so that the hot sun will not evaporatepetrol from your tank.

An Idling Motor is a useless expense. Turn it off

while you are waiting at the kerb for a friend, or at a train

crossing. . ^ , An Inefficient Carburettor is an efficient petrol

waster. Have yours checked at least twice a year (for summer andwinter driving) to be sure it is properly adjusted, and the octaneselector on the distributor is properly set.



O WN ER 'S M A N U A L 25

The table below indicates some of the things which should be done at

regular mileage intervals to assure your receiving the maximum, not only

in performance, but in economy.

MileageLubricate

Chassis•

CleanAir

Cleaner

ChangeOilt

CleanSparkPlugs

CrossChangeTires

TuneEngine

CompleteInspection byDealer

PackFrontWheel

Bearings

300 *1000 •

2000 • • *3000 * * •

4000 * • •

5000 • • • •

6000 • • • * •

7000 *8000 • • *9000 • • *

10000 • * * * * *11000 •

12000 * * * * •

13000 •

14000 * • *15000 * * • * -*

•For complete instructions, see Chart on Pages 2 2 and 2 3 .

fFor complete recommendations on changmg oil and the proper grade of

oil to use, see Pages 14 to 2 0 .

Cheap Lubrication is a waste of money. Use oil

of good quality and of the grade specified by the manufacturer.

Have your car well greased at least every thousand miles.

One Faulty or Dirty Spark Plug may waste

much of your petrol.




An Over-Full Crankcase wastes oil and does not

give you better lubrication, despite theories you may have heard.Keep your oil level within the limits marked on the oil level rod

in the crankcase.

To Obtain Maximum Efficiency and greatest

petrol mileage, have a complete motor tune-up performed every

5000 miles or at least twice a year.

The table on Page 25 indicates some of the things which

should be done at regular mileage intervals to assure your receiving the maximum, not only in performance, but in economy.

SAFETY BUILT IN YOUR CAR

The body is of all-steel construction, well insulated against

heat and sound. The interior appointments have been made to

assure comfort and safety. The adjustable front seat, safety glass,

and controlled ventilation are examples of this safety and comfortin design.

The headlights are controlled by the left foot when changing

from the upper to the lower beam, which leaves the right foot

and both hands free to control the car. Always use the low beam

when approaching and passing another car.

The hydraulic brakes are the safest and most dependable

system of brakes ever used, exerting correctly proportioned brakepressure on all four wheels.

The hand brake lever, under the instrument panel to the right

of the steering wheel, is easily reached.

HIGHWAY SAFETY

One of the most important aspects of motoring these days is

motoring safety.

The primary responsibility for traffic safety lies with the motor

car driver.

The most competent driver always keeps in mind the other

fellow. Always signal the other driver to let him know when you

are going to stop, make a turn, or pull away from the kerb. Proper

signalling will do away with one of the most dangerous traffic

hazards—the sudden, unexpected move.



O W N E R S M A N U A L 2 7

The Country Roads Boards, Automobile Clubs, and car manufacturers work together in designating highways through various

types of road markers to make driving safer.

You, the driver, should always obey these markers. Extra careshould be used at night—particularly when driving over strangeroads. Be constantly alert and drive courteously.

Domthill —When driving down a steep grade,it is advisable to shift into second gear and sometimes into first

gear. This will allow the motor to act as a brake on the car andwill not only assist materially in keeping the car under control,but also reduce the wear on brake shoe facings and brake drums.

Uphill —When driving up a steep grade, it isadvisable to shift into second gear. This will avoid placing unduestrain on the motor and clutch and is also more economical onthe petrol.

Overtaking and passing a car on a hill or curve is dangerousas you cannot see another car approaching.

Starting on a Hill —When it is necessary to start

your car on a hill, you will find it much easier if, before starting,

you set the hand-brake lever to keep the car from rolling back

ward. Put the gear shift lever in first speed, gradually release theclutch, press down the accelerator, and when the car starts to

move forward, or the engine starts to labour, slowly release thehand-brake lever.

Curves—When approaching a curve, do not crossover the centre of the road to pass a car ahead of you. Beforeentering a curve, slow down to a safe speed and make the turninto the curve at the extreme left side.

Slippery Roads—When starting on wet or slippery pavements, it is safer to have the shifting lever in secondgear to reduce the tendency of the rear wheels to spin.

Tjynj^/oM'-OM/—Do not jam on the brakes. Hold

the car as steady as possible until it slows down to a moderatespeed and then gradaally apply the brakes.




Skidding—If your car starts to skid, do not

jam on tfie brakes. Turn the front wheels in the direction of theskid and at the same time take your foot off the acceleratorgradually.

Sand and Gravel — When approaching a sandyor gravel road, always use extra caution imtil you know the condition of the road. Driving into loose sand or gravel at a fastspeed is dangerous, as a sudden shifting of the gravel may cause

you to lose control of the steering.We suggest that whenever and wherever you drive, you do so

with the car completely under control, at all times, and practisethe three "C's" of safety—

CARE

COURTESY

COMMON SENSE

CARE OF THE FINISH

Chrome—The chrome-plated parts on your car are plated underrigid conditions of control and to definite thicknesses of plate, to

provide the ultimate in protection of the parts against corrosion.

If rust spots appear on the chrome-plated surfaces, their

appearance can be improved by cleaning the affected spots witha scouring powder of a type which would be used for cleaningporcelain. After this has been done, a thin film of oil or waxshould be applied.

Paint, Enamel and Lacquer—Your car is finished with the latestand best materials and with reasonable care the finish should lastfor the life of your car.

Strong Sunlight — Strong sunlight is the mostdamaging element to these finishes. Continued exposure gradually

causes the dulling of the surface. It is obvious that parking a carin the shade is a good thing to do, but since this is not alwayspracticable, the car should be polished occasionally with a good

polish. NASCO Car Polish is recommended for this purpose.NASCO Polish is easy to use, gives a good lasting shine and does

not harm the Lacquer.




(2)

Dirt and Road Film —Keeping a car clean is

good from every standpoint. Frequent dusting and washing pay

good dividends in the maintenance of car appearance and va ue.

When washing a car, it is well to use a sponge and plenty of

water, being careful not to scratch the finish with dirt or gravel

which m?.y be on the car. Dry to a high lustre with a clean

chamois.

Tar—Tar is often used on roads and occasionallygets splashed on the car. When fresh, it can usually be removed

with petrol. If it is allowed to remain on the car for any time, itis well to use a commercial tar remover, which can be purchasedfrom your Dealer.

Insea Spots —Insect spots on the finished partsof the car can be washed off very easily by using a solution madeup with two quarts of water in which ^ pound of baking soda(bicarbonate of soda) has been dissolved. Flush the washed partswith clean water.

Dents and Scratches—Even the most expert of drivers occa

sionally finds that dents and scratches will appear to mar thefine finish of his car. Fortunately, the skill of an experienced bodyrepair man makes it possible to treat such blemishes on the bodyfinish as of minor consequence. In fact, even serious damage tothe sheet metal of the chassis and body can be remedied bymethods which have been developed for bringing back the proper

contours and restoring the lacquered and enamelled surfaces.Such repairs when properly made are invisible. By the use of

special equipment, the metal is bumped out, then filed and sandedsmooth. When necessary, holes are filled with solder and weldsare made. When the bare metal is again smooth as it was originally, a hard, quick-drying lacquer is applied with a spray-gun,matching the original paint work. The results are oftenastonishing.

NOTE: Full instruaions for the care of Upholstery and theremoval of all types of stains are contained in the booklet "GoodHousekeeping in Your Car." Look in the Glove Compartment.



>*


TYRES AND THEIR CARE

The subject of tyres is of prime importance to every owner.Satisfactory tyre hfe can be expected under normal driving con

ditions, but mileage given by all good makes of tyres depends

to a large extent on the way the car is driven and the roads upon

which it travels.

There is considerable variation in tyre mileage due to differ

ences in road surfaces and average temperatures, even in localitiesclose to each other. Fast driving, quick grinding stops, the pres

ence of hills, and skidding all cause rapid tyre wear.

Incorrect installation of tyres or wheels, or wheels out of

balance, and misalignment in the front end of the car, are also

detrimental to satisfactory tyre mileage. Many of these factors areunder the control of the driver.

Under-inflation Over-inflation Improper use of brakes

This illustration shows the characteristic types of tyre tread wear associatedwith three of the more common causes of excessive wear. Under-inflation

causes wear on the sides of the tread as shown by the arrows on the

drawing at the left, often accompanied by cupping and uneven wear.

Over-inflation (centre) tends to cause the rubber to wear off the centre

of the tread. Improper use of the brakes is generally shown when the

tread is worn through to the canvas in spots, or when there are well-

defined flat spots on the tread caused by locked wheels and sliding stops

If the centre of the tyre tread shows very little wear while theouter edges show noticeable wear, it indicates driving on under-

inflated tyres. When tyres are under-inflated, the centre does not

carry its share of the weight, and tyre rides on the shoulder.

Quick application of the brakes when approaching a stop

and jerky "get-aways" cause excessive tyre wear. Therefore, it is

obvious that it is best to make gradual stops and starts.




Care should always be used

when parking. Scraping tyres

against the kerb will weaken

side wall construction and this

invites blow-outs and shortens

the life of tyres.

Irregular Tyre Wear - A slight

amount of irregular wear at the

outer segments of tyres is a nor

mal condition and is due to the

difference in circumference be

tween the centre of the tyre tread and the outer edges. This

normal wear causes the outer segments to become slightly "saw-

toothed" in appearance.

Either under-inflation or improper toe-in, or both, will ex

aggerate this "saw-toothed" wear.

If irregular wear extends well toward the centre of the tread,it may be due to other misalignment conditions which should be

corrected.

Normal tyre wear may be reduced to a

minimum by "switching" wheels (without

dismounting tyres) including "spare," as

indicated in illustration, approximately

every 3000 miles.This will prevent undue wear on any

particular tyre since each of them is used at

each location equally. (When the "spare"

tyre is not used until the other tyres are

worn out, it may appear to be new, but it

will actually have deteriorated through disuse.)

When it comes time to make the fifth change, all of the tyres

will have run the same distance on each wheel. If tyres were

switched every 3,000 miles, the car will have gone 15,000 miles,

but the mileage on each tyre will be only 12,000.

Tyre Inflation—Maintaining correct tyre pressure is very im

portant. Heat, caused by under-inflation, overload and excessive



32 THE H O L D E N

speed, is the greatest enemy of tyres. Check tyre pressures at leasttwice a week, preferably when tyres are normally cold. Avoid

under-inflation to prevent pinched tubes, rim bruises, excessiveheat, and irregular or rapid tyre wear. Avoid over-inflation to

prevent tyre ruptures, hard riding, irregular or rapid wear, and

reduction of skid resistance.

Maintain tyre pressures shown on Page 2, under Specifications

and Registration Data.

Speed and Load—High speed, especially in hot weather, causesexcessive tyre heat. This is true with any tyre. This excessive

heat causes rapid tyre wear and may cause fabric (tyre carcass)failures. Avoid continuous high speed driving—cool tyres are

safe tyres.

USE OF JACK

Changing Front Wheels — (1) Sethand brake, then remove hub cap* andslightly loosen all wheel nuts. (2)Place jack under front suspension unit,as illustrated, then raise jack until tyreclears ground. (3 ) Complete removalof wheel bolts.

Changing Rear Wheels — (1) Set

hand brake, then remove hub cap* andloosen wheel nuts. (2) Place jack underrear spring pad, as illustrated, thenraise jack until tyre clears ground. (3)

Complete removal of wheel bolts.

In replacing either front or rear

wheels, tighten wheel nuts snugly,lower jack until wheel touches ground,

then make certain that all nuts are drawn up tight.

*Use the Wheel Nut Wrench Handle, which has one end specially shaped

for this purpose, and the wheel nut spanner as a fulcrum point.




COOLING SYSTEM

The function of the cooHng system is to keep the engine at

its most efficient operating temperature under all driving conditions.

Intelligent care and the proper servicing of the cooling systemare necessary to maintain its maximum efficiency.

The entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out

at regular intervals. This can be accomplished with any of theseveral types of radiator flushers available. It will be found that

the systems employing the reverse method of flushing will provemost efficient.

When draining the cooling system, open the drain cock at the

bottom of the radiator and also the drain cock at the lower left

side of the cylinder block.

Radiator Filler Cap—A spring-loaded valve is used to maintaina pressure on the coolant and raise the boiling point of the solu

tion. With the maximum pressure of about 4 lbs. the boiling pointwill be raised approximately 10°.

This valve is located in the filler cap and the cap should

always be tightened when replacing, otherwise there can be no

pressure.

When removing the filler capafter coolant is hot, rotate the capcounter-clockwise imtil a stop is

reached. In this position, pressureand vapours will escape throughthe overflow pipe. Leave cap in this position until all the pressure has been relieved, then turn cap forcibly I M ^ K .past the stop and remove. ^WH^

Unless this precaution is used the coolant may boil when pressure is released and some of it be ejeaed from the filler neck of

the radiator, which could cause injury to persons or damage tothe car finish.

Fan Belt—^The fan belt also drives the water pump and generator.It should always be in good condition and kept in proper adjust-



34 THE H O L D E N

ment as illustrated. Inspect each 5000

miles.

1. Loosen lower and upper generator

clamp bolts shown at "A," ""B" and

""C" a slight amount.

2. Adjust fan belt tension to ^ inch

^ slack as shown.

3. Tighten upper clamp bolt " B " and

re-check tension.

4. Tighten clamp bolts "A" front and

rear and "C."

CLEANING FUEL PUMP BOWL

The fuel pump is provided

with a glass bowl and a screen

of fine mesh, through which the

fuel must pass. Dirt and water

settle in the glass bowl retainer,

and the bowl may be removed

for cleaning. To remove, loosen

the retaining nut over the bowl

until the bowl can be lifted out.

Be sure the gasket is not brokenand that the bowl seats properly

when replaced. Tighten the re

taining nut to prevent leakage. It is a good practice to run the

engine until the bowl fills, to make sure that it has been properly

installed.

CLUTCH

The clutch is the dry disc type and requires very little attention during its life. Only one simple adjustment is necessary tomaintain clutch efficiency and assure long life. This adjustmentis for the amount of clutch pedal "free travel"—the distance thepedal will travel before the clutch begins to disengage. As clutchfacings wear, the amount of free pedal travel is reduced and if unchecked, this will eventually result in clutch slip. Therefore,




it is necessary to have the pedal

adjusted at intervals to provide

sufficient free travel—| in.—to

permit full engagement of the

clutch.

NOTE—Check this free travel with

the hand, not the foot, on thepedal, as

the adjustment is sensitive.

BRAKES

The service brakes are applied by means of hydraulic pressurefrom the main cylinder to each wheel cylinder. The emergency

brake or hand brake is mechanically operated through cables that

actuate the rear brake shoes.

Depressing the. brake foot pedal applies the four wheel service

brakes. The hand brake lever provides a means of holding the car

when parked or getting under way on a steep up-grade.

Do not under any circumstances use other than genuine

DELCO Hydraulic Brake Fluid, as it is the highest quality of

brake fluid obtainable and its use will assure the long, efficient

life of all brake parts. The fluid level in the main cylinder should

be checked periodically by your Holden Dealer.

These brakes have been designed and developed to give consistent and efficient service with long life under all conditions,and in order that they may do so, it is advisable that you followthese suggestions:—

1. Avoid sudden stopping, as this puts unnecessary strain on

the car.

2. Delay in adjusting brakes creates unnecessary repair bills.

3. When slowing down, do not de-clutch your engine untilthe last moment, as the compression of the engine, on closed

throttle, materially helps to slow down and stabilize the car when

stopping.

4. Re-line brakes only with genuine linings, as this lining has

been especially developed for this particular brake.



36 THE H O L D E N

5. Be sure that only DELCO No. 5 Hydraulic Brake Fluid is

used in the system, as possible damage to the hydraulic brake

parts may result through the use of inferior brake fluids.For all normal adjustments, it is necessary only to compen

sate for brake lining wear. Your Dealer has competent trained

mechanics and the necessary equipment to render this service at

a moderate cost. The necessity for brake adjustment is indicatedwhen the brake pedal goes practically to the toe pan when the

brakes are applied.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMBattery—The storage battery is located on the front of the dash

on the right hand side of the engine.

The battery solution level should be maintained at |^ in. abovethe plates by adding distilled water. In warm weather it makes

no difference when water i^ added but in cold weather it should

be added just before using the car. The reason is that water will

remain on top of the solution until it is mixed with it, by aaionof the battery. If not mixed with the solution, it would freeze

almost as quickly as outside the battery.

Distilled water will be required more frequently in summerthan in winter. It is a good plan to add water at least once a week

in summer and every two weeks in winter. When long daylight

runs are made, water must be added still more frequently. Keep

all battery terminals clean and tight.

A discharged battery will freeze at a little below the freezingpoint of water (32 degrees F. ) . A fully charged battery will not

freeze, even at temperatures as low as 30° below zero; therefore,

keep the battery fully charged. Your Dealer will gladly check the

condition of the battery for you on a no-charge basis. Registeryour battery with him.

WARNING: It is essential to fit only the specified battery type

when the need arises for service replacement, or even temporarysubstitution of the equipment battery.

The battery design has been carefully considered and provedin relation to its required performance. The battery, together with

the battery mounting, support clamp bolts, and body dash panel

with retainer bolt reinforcement which comprises the mounting

assembly, are specifically designed as a unit.




Replacement batteries of other than the specified type arelikely to become damaged, in addition to damaging the battery

mounting assembly, and adjacent body panel. In such an event,

repairs would not be covered by Warranty.

Spark Plugs—Dirty spark plugs increase fuel consumption and

decrease power and speed. 'They should be cleaned and their gaps

re-set every 3000 to 4000 miles. It is usually advisable to replace

them every 10,000 miles. The gaps should be set to .030 in. In

setting them, be careful to bend only the side electrode and not

the one in the centre, otherwise the insulator core may be broken.

Removal of Lamp Bulbs — Headlamps: To remove headlampbulbs, follow the operations shown in the illustrations on following pages.

Parking Lamps—These are incorporated in the Headlamps. For

replacement follow instructions given under "Removal of Head

lamp Bulbs."

Combined Tail, Stop and Number Plate Lamp (Sedan)

—This is conveniently fitted to the back of the boot lid and caneasily be replaced by raising the boot lid and pulling out the snapsocket. " •

Combined Tail, Stop and Number Plate Lamp (Utility and

Panel Van)—This is mounted at the right hand end of the lowerrear body panel. To change the bulbs, remove the screw at theside of the lamp, and the hinged front will then be free to open.The bulbs have the ordinary bayonet fixing.

Dome Light—The dome lamp glass is held in position by threespring clips and may be removed by inserting a screwdriver between glass and rim and carefully levering downwards. The bulb

can then be removed and replaced.

Instrument Lamps—The instrument cluster has four bulbs forillumination and four as indicators inserted at the rear of thepanel. These may be replaced by pulling out the snap socketsholding the bulbs.




REMOVAL OF BULB FROM "GUIDE" HEADLAMP

Fig. 1. Remove screw in bottom

of outer rim

Fig. 3. Loosen three screws "A."

Do not disturb adjusting screws

Fig. 2. Swing outer rim out at

bottom and lift upwards to dis

engage lug at top of rim

Fig. 4 . After three screws "A"

have been removed, inner rim can

be lifted off

Fig. 5. Remove lens from reflector

while holding one of the side

spring clips "C" away from lens

Fig. 6. Remove bulb by rocking

it slightly on its base and turning

it counter-clockwise




REMOVAL OF BULB FROM "BOSCH" HEADLAMP


of outer rim


bottom and lift upwards to dis

engage lug at top of rim

Fig. 3. Loosen off two screws

"A" in side of lens rim. Do not

disturb adjusting screws " B" or

pilot screw "C"

Fig. 4 . Remove-lens and reflector

assembly by gently prising from

the bottom, at the same time

holding the light unit at the top

Fig. 5. Hold lens and reflector

assembly securely in one hand,

and release spring clip at back of bulb holder. Remove bulb holder

from lens, then the bulbs may be

removed from the bulb holder

When re-assembling, first fit the

lens and reflector to the loweredge of the light body; this is

important as otherwise the retain

ing clips may be damaged



40 THE HOLDEN

REMOVAL OF BULB FROM "LUCAS" HEADLAMP


of outer rim


bottom and lift upwards to

disengage lug at top of rim

Fig. 3. Remove light unit by

pressing it firmly inwards and

then turning anti-clockwise.Do not disturb the beam adjust

ing screws otherwise the lamp

setting will be altered

Fig. 4. Hold the light unit

securely, and press the bulb re

taining cap inwards; then, turnanti-clockwise until the arrows

stamped on the cap and the

reflector are in line.

Release cap and contact assembly

from reflector. Bulb is now free

to be withdrawn from reflector.

The parking lamp bulb can be

removed by gently prising the

socket assembly away from the

reflector



O W N E R S M A N U A L 41

Lamp Bulbs

Where Used

Headlamp

Parking Lamp

Tail and Stop Lamp (Sedan)

Tail Lamp (Utility)

Stop Lamp (Utility)

Headlamp Beam Indicator ...

Instrument Cluster

Instrument Indicator Lamps ...

Dome Light ... v „ ...

Specifications

50-32 CP. (Guide)

35-35 Watt (Bosch)

45-35 Watt (Lucas)

2 CP.

21-3 CP.

6 CP.

21 CP.1 CP.

2 CP.

1 CP.

6 CP.

Thermal Circuit Breaker—There are no fuses in the main light

ing system; protection is through a thermal circuit breaker attached to the light switch. When the current load is too iieavy,

due to a short circuit, the relay opens and closes rapidly, thus

reducing current sufficiently to protect the wiring f|0m damage.

This action continues until the cause is eliminateds^

This is an important safety feature, for should a short circuit

tely extinguished,

this aaion of theoccur, the lights are not in "most instances comjas is the case when a fuse burns-out. D

relay, there is usually sufficient light to permit the car to be drivento the nearest service station. If a short circuit occurs, it shovlldbe repaired as soon as possible, otherwise it will result in exces

sive wearing of thermal circuit breaker points, also battery becoming completely discharged.

The dome and stop lamp circuits are proteaed by a 15 amp.

fuse located at the lighting switch behind the instrument panel.

When a fuse "blows," all the items protected by it will becomeinoperative.

GENUINE GMH PARTS

General Motors, as the manufacturer of your car, recognises

its obligation to you in respea to spare parts. This applies not

only to the larger parts, such as wheels, or cylinder blocks, but



42 THE H O L D E N

also to those equally important fan belts, spark plugs, gaskets,

brake linings and piston rings.

NATIONAL AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE COMPANY (the

parts and accessories division of General Motors-Holden's Ltd.)

is established to distribute Genuine GMH Parts, and this com

pany has Authorised Dealers throughout the Commonwealth from

whom you can obtain new parts as required.

Your GMH Dealer holds the representation for NASCO Parts

and Accessories.

Genuine GMH Parts are manufactured to the high standards

of quality established for General Motors cars—to the same

dimensions' and of the same materials as the original parts on

your car. They are, therefore, dependable, and it is definitely to

your interest to specify them.

ENGINE AND SERIAL NUMBERSThere are two numbers which identify your car. They are

recorded by the Registration Branch of the State in which your

car is licensed. The accompanying illustrations show locations of

these numbers.

Engine Number-—On machined pad on right hand side of Engine forward of Distributor.

Vehicle Serial Number—On Upper Flange of right hand side

frame member, between Front Cross Member Mounting Bolts.

ENGINE NUMBER VEHICLE SERIAL NUMBER




1000 AND 2 0 0 0 MILE INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

When the new vehicle has been driven 1000 miles, and again at 2000 miles,

the Owner should deliver it to the Selling Dealer, who will inspect the vehicle, andperform the following adjustments.

• Fill Radiator

• C.&A. Operation of all Instruments

• C.&A. Operation of Horn

• Change Engine Oil

• Check Steering Box Oil Level

• Check Transmission Oil Level

• Check Differential Oil Level

• Lubricate Door Locks

(NASCO Solidoil)

• Lubricate Striker Plates and Striker

(NASCO Solidoil)

• Lubricate Dovetail Shoes

(NASCO Solidoil)

• Lubricate Outside Door Handle Locks

• Lubricate Chassis (Refer to Chart)

Check Front Wheel Bearings for

Lubrication and Adjustment

•Inflate Tyres to Recommended

Pressures

• Inspect Tyres for cuts, bruises, etc.

• C.&A. Valve Clearance• C.&A. Water Connections

• C.&A. Spark Plug Gaps

• C.&A. Distributor Point Gap

C.&A. Ignition Timing with

Synchroscope

• C:&A. Choke and Throttle Linkage

C.&A. Carburettor for wide open

throttle and fuel leaks

C.&A. Carburettor Float or Fuel

Level

C.&A. Oil Pressure Line for clearance• C.&A. Fan Belt Tension, and fan

clearance from radiator

Check and tighten Generator

Attaching Bolts

Check and tighten Cylinder Head

and Manifold Bolts

• C.&A. Engine Mountings

• Tune Motor and clean Engine

• Test Battery Gravity and Connections,

add Distilled Water to proper

level.Tighten Battery in Support

Check and Tighten Electrical

Connections

• C.&A. Generator Charging Rate and

Voltage Regulator

• C.&A. Operation of all lights includ

ing Interior and Instrument

Lights

C.&A. Headlamps and tighten

terminals

• C.&A. Clutch Pedal for correct

clearance

• C.&A. Brake Pedal Clearance

• C.&A. Brakes

• Check and fill Master Cylinder

Check and tighten all Brake Line

Connections

Check and tighten Steering Box to

Frame Bolts

C.&A. Steering Gear

Check and tighten Pitman Arm Nut

• C.&A. Steering Toe-in and Geometry

• C.&A. Steering Connections and

Cotter Pins

• C.&A. Gear Shift Linkage .,

• Check and tighten all bolts

Check and tighten Axle Shaft Nuts

• Check and tighten Wheel Nuts

Check Petrol Line from tank to fuelpump for clearance

Check Clearance of Exhaust Pipe and

Muffler

Check Clearance of TailpipeC.&A. Spring Clips and Shackles

• C.&A. Body Bolts

• C.&A. Engine Hood Alignment

C.&A. Operation of movable body

parts

• C.&A. Door Alignment

C.&A. Operation all Windows

• C.&A, Operation of Windshield

Wiper Motor, Linkage & Blades

C.&A. Operation of Locks and Keys

• Final Road Test vehicle with Owner

(C.&A. means "Check and Adjust")

It is understood that although this labour of inspection and adjustment is

without cost to Owner, a charge will be made for oil or grease used.

Items checked at 1000 Mile Inspection and Adjustment are marked with a

dot ( • ) .

At 2000 Mile Inspection and Adjustment, ALL items on the above list are

checked.



44 T H E H O ' C E N

•acturer / War

"Fine materials, scientific reseat.and design and painstakingworkmanship go into every Gene^. .Motors Product to ensure themaximum satisfaction in the user'sfiitods. Conscious of this inherent quality in its products, and cpnfident of the service that theyrender, and as tangible evidence thereof, General Motors covers

each vehicle which it manufactures, with this Warranty."

"Should any deject in material or workmanship develop in' any part within the period of this Warranty, said part will be repaired or replaced without cost to you for labour or material at our nearest authorised Dealer's establishment."

This Warranty is valid for 90 days from the date of deliveryof the vehicle to the owner, or for the first 4000 miles of operationof such vehicle, whichever termination is first reached. This Warranty does not cover tyres, inasmuch as they are usually guar

anteed by their respective makers.

It is understood that this Warranty is null and void on anyvehicle where parts not made or sold by us are used in any replacements or otherwise.

Holden Dealers everywhere stand ready to provide you withthe best possible service at all times. It is their responsibility toassure your continued satisfaction with your car. But you, too,

have a responsibility to yourself as an owner—the responsibilityof giving your Holden car the reasonable care and attention thatany mechanical thing deserves. You can obtain greater motoringsatisfaction and longer car life by following the maintenance andoperation suggestions found in this Handbook.



Authorised Dt . i^ j

jcNUINE^>5MH PARTS

AND ilASCO ACCESSORIESB r i s b an e Aut omo ti ve Serv ice Co. , Br i ^neE . G. E a g e r & Son Pt y. Ltd . , Br i sb ar , Townsvil le , Toowoomba, Ma cKay i•El phi nst one Lt d. , Bri sba ne, Tovvnsv. ' •, Roc kha mpt on , Too woo mba• E xW e Ba t t er y .Service (Q.) Pt y. Ltd ., Bri sb an e and Townsville

*A- Gf. He al in g L td . , Br is ba ne

•Martin, Wilson Bro s . Pty . Ltd . , Br isbane

•Slot or Supplies I'ty. Lt d. , Bii sba ne, ROcIshampton, Townsville, Cai rns

N E W S OU TH W A t E S*Ball Bearings Pty. Ltd. , SydneyBen net t & Barltell Ltd ., Sydney and Newc ast leBen net t & Woo d Pt y. Ltd ., Sydney, Goulburn, P a r r am a t t a , Tamvvorth, Llsmore,

Newcast le , Wag pa , Wollongong, Orang eBoyded Pty. Ltd . , Sydney, Wollongon gBrookl ands Accessories Limited, Sydney•G . R. Bryden Pty. Ltd. , SydneyJo i m A. Gilbert Pty. Ltd., SydneyW. T. Coggins Pty. Ltd. , CamperdownDwver's Pty . Ltd . , WollongongA. G. Hea li ng Lt d. , Syd ney and Al bur yW. H. L ob er & Co. Lt d. , Sydne y

• Preston Motors P'ty. Ltd., Albury' S t a c k & Co. Pt y. Ltd ., Sydn ey

W e s t c o t t Hazell & Co. Lt d. , Sydn eyVoung & Green Pt y. Lt d. , Newca stl e, Maitl and, CessnoclcMcLeod, Kels o & Le e Pt y. Ltd ., Newc ast le and We s t Mai tland

V I C T OR I A

• A u s tr a l Motor Wheel Wo rk s Pt y. Ltd . , MelbourneBro okl and s Access orie s Lt d. , Melbourne, Bendlgo, Ho rs ha m, Swan Itill , Geelqng,

SheppartonS. A. Chen ey Pt y. Lt d. , Melbourne and Dand enon gFr e i gh te r s Ltd., MelbourneA: G. Heal ing L td ., Melbourne, Alb ury , Ba ll ar at , Bendlgo , Hamill on. Box Hill,

H o r s h a m , SheppartonE . A. Machi n & Co. Lt d. , Melbourne, Bendl go, War rn am bo olPr e s ton Equipment , P a r t s & Access ories Comp any , MelbournePr e s ton Moto rs Pt y. Lt d. , Melbourne, Sub urbs and Albu ryQueen's B ri dge Moto r & Eng ine eri ng Co. Pt y. Ltd ., South MelbourneRho des Moto r Co. Pt y. Ltd ., MelbourneSouthern Motors Pt y. Ltd . , Melbourne i . ^ V . '•Sp eedo meter Screen wiper Servi ce I'ty. Lt d. , Melbourne . •Stuart & Har ri so n Pt y. Lt d. , Mil.lura *

Winter & Ta yl or Pt y. Lt d. , GeelongS O U T H A U S T K A M A - .

City Supplies Ltd ., AdelaideDun can & Co. Lt d. , Adelaide, Mt. Gambl erF r e e m a n Moto rs Lt d. , Adelaide ,•Gilbert Moto r Bodies L td ., Adelai deMotor Tr ad er s (S . A.) Lt d. , Adelaide , P o r t Lincol n, Broke n Hill, Mt. Gambl erS ta te Motors Ltd., AdelaideUnited Mot ors Lt d. , Adelaide ,•Motor Rad ia to r Pt y. Ltd . , Adelaide • *

W E S T E K T f A C S T U A L I A

Atkins (W . A . ) Ltd . , Per th , Depot at Kal goorlle

Attwood Motor s I 'ty . Ltd . , Pe rt hCoventry Motor Replac ements Pt y. Ltd . , Pe rt h and Kalgoo rlie

Sy<lney Atkinson Motors Ltd., PerthCity Motors Pty. Ltd. , PerthT A S M A N I A

Motors Pt y. Ltd . , Laun cest on, Burnl e , Devonport , Ulverstone, Queenstown, *Huonv ill e , .

Robert Nett lefold Pt y. Ltd . , Hob art• T a s m a n i a Automotive Service Co. , Hobart

^ • N E W G U I N E A

Tutt Br ya nt (New Guinea) Lt d. , P o r t Moresby

•Distributors of certain NASCO products only



jQo^fjirr the

mm

uthorised

G M H

ealer

Holden Owners Manual - 50s, 60s

Documents