Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF SOYBEANS AND SOYFOODS IN JAPAN, AND IN JAPANESE COOKBOOKS AND RESTAURANTS OUTSIDE JAPAN (701 CE TO 2014): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK See also: How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought Soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands – A History (1851-2011) Jokichi Takamine (1854-1922) and Caroline Hitch Takamine (1866-1954): Biography and Bibliography Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2014
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History of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan, and in Japanese Cookbooks and Restaurants Outside Japan (701 CE to 2014)Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
HISTORY OF SOYBEANS AND SOYFOODS IN JAPAN,
AND IN JAPANESE COOKBOOKS AND RESTAURANTS
OUTSIDE JAPAN (701 CE TO 2014):
EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED
BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK
See also: How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought Soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands – A History (1851-2011)
Jokichi Takamine (1854-1922) and Caroline Hitch Takamine (1866-1954): Biography and Bibliography
Compiled
by
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Copyright (c) 2014 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher.
Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com
ISBN 9781928914655 (History of Soy in Japan without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-65-5 (History of Soy in Japan with hyphens)
Printed 19 Feb. 2014
Search engine keywords:
History of Soybeans in Japan History of Soyabeans in Japan History of Soybean in Japan History of Soy in Japan History of Soya in Japan History of Soyfoods in Japan History of Soyafoods in Japan History of Tofu in Japan History of Miso in Japan History of Soy Sauce in Japan History of Soymilk in Japan History of Soy Milk in Japan History of Edamame in Japan History of Green Vegetable Soybeans in Japan History of Yuba in Japan History of Natto in Japan History of Fermented Black Soybeans in Japan History of Kinako in Japan
Bibliography of Soybeans in Japan Bibliography of Soybean in Japan Bibliography of Soy in Japan Bibliography of Soya in Japan Bibliography of Soyfoods in Japan Bibliography of Tofu in Japan
Bibliography of Miso in Japan Bibliography of Soy Sauce in Japan Bibliography of Edamame in Japan Bibliography of Yuba in Japan Bibliography of Natto in Japan Bibliography of Fermented Black Soybeans in Japan Bibliography of Kinako in Japan
Timeline of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan Timeline of Soybeans in Japan Timeline of Soyabeans in Japan Timeline of Soy in Japan Timeline of Soya in Japan Timeline of Soyfoods in Japan Timeline of Soyafoods in Japan
Chronology of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan Chronology of Soybeans in Japan Chronology of Soyabeans in Japan Chronology of Soy in Japan Chronology of Soya in Japan Chronology of Soyfoods in Japan Chronology of Soyafoods in Japan
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 3
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Contents
Page
About This Book ........................................................................................................................................................... 12
Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 13
How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 14
Full-Page Graphics ................................................................................................................................................. 16-24
History of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan: 11,505 References in Chronological Order ..................................... 25
Contains 445 Photographs and Illustrations
Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................. 3224
Last Page of Index ..................................................................................................................................................... 3377
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 4
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting people from around the world who share a common interest, and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks...
Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out:
University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey.
Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman.
Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special help on Slavic-language documents.
National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Tanner Wray.
Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache.
Lane Medical Library at Stanford University.
Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Cartmill, Linda Barbero.
Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas.
French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s.
DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman.
We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in collecting the documents, building the library, and producing the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed:
Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga, Tanya Kochan.
Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California.
For outstanding help on this book about Japan we thank: Mr. & Mrs. Kinjiro Aoyagi, Toshio Arai, Linda Barber, Alfred Birnbaum, Steve Earle, Hideo Ebine, Danji Fukushima, Naomichi Ishige, Makiko Kageura, Goro Kanatsugi, Wataru Kawamura, Akiyoshi Kazama,Yoshiko Kojima, Yasuo Kumoda, Michio and Aveline Kushi, Harry W. Miller, Tsutomu Mochizuki, Yuzaburo Mogi, Kiku Murata, Masahiro Nakano, Teruo Ohta, Jean Pearce, Rustono, Scott Sawyers, Wataru Takai, Kazuhiro Takamine, Yasuko Torii, Kanji Tsuchiya, Luisa Velez, Hidekazu Watanabe,Tokuji Watanabe, Masaaki Yasuda, Tamotsu Yokotsuka,
Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible.
This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff.
This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject.
This book is dedicated to generations of soyfoods makers and researchers, and soybean growers in Japan.
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 5
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
INTRODUCTION
Brief chronology of soybeans and soyfoods in Japan.
701 CE – The Taih Ritsury [Taiho Law Codes], by Emperor Monmu, which some regard as Japan’s fi rst constitution, is the earliest document seen that mentions soyfoods (and by implication soybeans) in Japan. It is also the earliest document outside of China to mention fermented black soybeans (FBS), which it calls “kuki” or “shi.” These law codes established the Hishio Tsukasa, or Bureau for the Regulation of Hishio Production, Trade and Taxation. The Hishio Tsukasa, located in the Imperial Palace, was an annex of the emperor’s kitchen, where hishio was made. Using methods very similar to those developed in China, it transformed soybeans into hishio (which resembled Chinese jiang), fermented black soybeans (kuki or shi), and misho (an ancestor of miso; the term “miso” had not yet been coined). These foods and seasonings were consumed at the Imperial Household (Shurtleff & Aoyagi 1978, p. 219). FBS are again mentioned in Japan in 718, 730, and 923. In 675 the fi rst prohibition of meat eating in Japan was promulgated by Emperor Tenmu. Similar decrees, based on the Buddhist prohibition of killing, were issued repeatedly by emperors during the eighth and ninth centuries. Soyfoods gradually began to supply the savory fl avor and protein that formerly had come from meat. Not until the 1860s did meat- eating resume in Japan, and not until after World War II did it become part of Japanese culture (Ishige 2001, p. 52-55, 146-153).
712 CE – The mythical story of the origin of the soybean in Japan is told in the Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters).
720 CE – The mythical story of the origin of the soybean in Japan is told again in the Nihon Shoki / Nihongi (Chronicles of Early Japan).
725 CE – The Harima no Kuni Fudoki [Geography and Culture of Harima province], from Japan, is the fi rst document that mentions koji outside of China. It states that by the early 8th century in Japan, koji was being made using airborne koji molds.
741 CE – Two new Buddhist temples are added to each feudal domain (kuni) in Japan: Kokubunji is for monks and Kokubunniji is for nuns. It is said that from this time, fermented black soybeans (tera natt, or shiokara natt) spread throughout Japan. They are made from soybean koji, which is soaked in salted water and dried.
760 CE – The Manysh (Collection of Japan’s Earliest
Songs and Poems) (from 350-759 CE) mentions koji – the 2nd earliest Japanese work to do so.
794 CE – The capital of Japan is relocated to Kyoto from Nara. The Heian period (794-857) begins.
901-08 CE – The modern word for miso fi rst appears in Japan in the Sandai Jitsuroku.
927 CE – The Engishiki is completed by Fujiwara no Tokihira (871-811) and others. In this book it is written: “In the feudal domain of Omi 60 koku of soybeans [1 koku = 47.6 gallons or 180 liters], in the domain of Tanba 30 koku, in the domain of Harima 20 koku, in the domain of Misa 10 koku, and in the domain of Iyo 10 koku are recommended (susumu).” It seems that the soybean was now an important crop in Japan.
1051-1083 – The origin of natto is obscure. According to legend, it was discovered accidentally in northeast Japan by Minamoto (Hachimantaro) Yoshiie when warm, cooked soybeans, placed in a rice-straw sack on the back of a horse, turned into natto. The warmth of the horse (106 deg. F.) helped the fermentation; natto prefers 104 deg. F.
1058-1068 – The word “natto” fi rst appears in Japan, but it refers to “salty natto” (shiokara natt) (fermented black soybeans) rather than to “sticky soybeans” (itohiki natto). In about 1068 salty natto are fi rst mentioned in Japan in the book Shin Sarugakki, [New Monkey Play Story: A humorous novel…] by Fujiwara no Akihara (lived 989-1066).
1183 Jan. – Tofu is fi rst mentioned in Japan in the Diary of Hiroshige Nakaomi.
1192 – The Kamakura period and shogunate begins as Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199) becomes the fi rst head shogun. The seat of power has been moved from Kyoto (where the emperor resides) to far-away Kamakura, near today’s Tokyo.
1228 – The Buddhist monk Kakushin returns to Japan from Song / Sung dynasty China having learned the method for making fermented Kinzanji miso. While fermenting the miso in Japan, he discovers that the liquid (tamari) which gathers on the bottom of the vats can be used as a tasty seasoning. This tamari is considered to be the fi rst soy sauce in Japan.
1275 July 26 – Edamamé (green vegetable soybeans in the pods) are fi rst mentioned in Japan (or worldwide) in a letter
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 6
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
from Nichiren, the Japanese Buddhist saint. In a letter to Mr. Takahashi, one of the parishioners at his temple, he says “Thank you for the edamamé.”
1288-1292 – Tamari-style shoyu is fi rst sold from Yuasa in the Kishu area (in today’s Wakayama prefecture).
1405 Dec. 19 – Natto (itohiki natto) is fi rst mentioned in the diary of Noritoki Fujiwara; it is called itohiki daizu (“stringy soybeans”).
1450 – The word “natto,” referring to itohiki-natto, is next used in Japan in the Shojin Gyorui Monogatari. This is a funny story about foods that are depicted as people and a battle for rank between vegetarian and nonvegetarian foods. Natto, called “Natto Taro” or “Natto Taro Itogasane” (the last word meaning “many threads”) is given a high rank.
1540? – Mame no ko, the early Japanese word for roasted soy fl our, fi rst appears in the Nyb Shitsukegaki [Women’s Book of Manners] – according to the Nihon Kokugo Daijiten.
1542 Jan. 1 – Mame no ko appears again in the Tamon-in Nikki [Tamon-in Diary].
1587 June 19 – Kinako, the modern Japanese word for roasted whole soy fl our, fi rst appears in the Sotan Chakai Kondate Nikki [Master Sotan’s Tea Ceremony Cookery Menu Diary] – in the morning menu.
1603 – Vocabulario da Lingoa de Iapam [Vocabulary of the Language of Japan], a Japanese-Portuguese dictionary, is compiled and published by Jesuit missionaries in Nagasaki, Japan. There are entries for: Abura ague [Abura-agé, deep-fried tofu pouches] Amazaqe [Amazake], a still-bubbling fermented liquid that has not yet completely become sake; or sweet sake. Azzuqi or azzuqui [azuki beans]. Cabe [Kabe]. Same as tofu. Côji [Koji], a yeast [sic] used in Japan to make sake, or mixed with other things Daizzu [Daizu, whole dry soybeans]. Dengacu [Dengaku]. Dancing monks or skewered tofu spread with miso and broiled. Fanben [Hanben]. A type of food which is made by broiling tofu and simmering it with miso. Icchô. A way of counting some types of food, such as tofu. Miso. A kind of mixture which is made with graos [grains, seeds, kernels], rice, and salt to season Japanese soups. Misocoxi [Misokoshi], a bamboo strainer used for straining miso. Misoya, a shop that sells miso.
Misoyaqijiru [Miso-yaki-jiru], a type of soup (Xiru) made with tofu and fi nely sliced daikon radish. Misôzzu, which should properly be called Zosui, is a healing food made from vegetables, rice, miso, etc. Nattô, a type of food made by a brief boiling of grains / seeds [graos], which are then put into an incubation chamber (muro). Nattôjiru, a soup (Xiru) made from natto. Tamari, a very savory liquid taken from miso which can be used for seasoning foods [when cooking] or at table. Tôfu* – Taufu. A type of food. It is made into the shape of a cheese by crushing soybeans. Tôfuya – Taufuya, a shop which makes and sells that cheese-like thing (tofu), which is made by grinding soybeans that have been soaked in water until they are soft. Vdondôfu [Udon-dôfu]. Tofu which is made like udon (Japanese-style wheat noodles) and cooked. Xôyu [Shoyu, or soy sauce], a liquid which corresponds to vinegar except that it is salty. It is used for seasoning foods. It is also called sutate. Yudôfu – Yudaufu: A food made from thinly sliced tofu, served next to a kakejiru-type sauce [which is then poured over the top].
1605 –Tokugawa Ieyasu in Japan commands the monks at Daifukuji temple to make Hamana Natto – a type of fermented black soybeans, later known as Hamanatto (Saito 1985, p. 14-16).
1633 – The Tokugawa shogunate (upset at Portuguese Christian missionaries intent on making converts and instigating revolts) adopts a policy of national isolation which continues for 221 years until 1854. In 1639 the Portuguese are expelled. This leaves only the Dutch among the Europeans still trading with Japan.
1639 – By this time the Japanese had so successfully closed their doors to the outside world that subsequently Japan all but dropped out of the consciousness of Europeans. The only important exception was the annual Dutch vessel from the East Indies to the Dutch trading post on the island of Hirado, then Deshima in Nagasaki harbor.
1641 – The Dutch and their representatives are moved from Hirado to the tiny artifi cial island of Deshima / Dejima built by the shogunate in Nagasaki harbor, where they were kept as virtual prisoners. During this time Japan maintained contact with only two other nations: China and Korea. Chinese merchants were also allowed to trade at Nagasaki, but under strict controls.
1647 Oct. 16 – Japanese soy sauce (shoyu) is now being exported from Nagasaki, Japan, by the Dutch East India Company. In the earliest known handwritten letter (in Dutch)
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 7
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
it is called soije (Int. Comptoir Nagasaekij). The Dutch merchants who exported shoyu in kegs from Japan did their best to spell it as it sounded – phonetically. Here is how that spelling evolved – based on documents now at Soyinfo Center; each appears in this book:
1647 Oct. – soije 1651 June – sooje 1652 July – soij 1652 Aug. – soije 1652 Oct. – soije 1652 Oct. – zoije 1654 July – soijo 1655 Aug. – soija 1656 March – soeije 1657 Aug. – soija 1659 Aug. – soija 1660 June – soije 1665 Feb. – soija 1669 Feb. – soija 1669 Feb. – soija 1674 Nov. – sooij 1675 Nov. – soija 1676 March – soija 1676 June – soija 1678 Nov. – soija 1680 June – soije
Note: The words “soy,” “soya” and “soja,” and the term “soy sauce” came into English from the Japanese word shyu via the Dutch. Thus, the name of the soybean was derived from the name of the sauce made from it.
1661 – Kikkoman traces its origins to this date when the Takanashi and Mogi families constructed breweries and started brewing soy sauce (Fruin 1983).
1712 – Englebert Kaempfer, a German who lived in Japan, is the fi rst European to give detailed descriptions of how miso and shoyu are made in Japan – in his landmark Latin- language book Amoenitatum exoticarum politico-physico- medicarum [Exotic novelties, political, physical, medical, Vol. 5, p. 834-35]. He also mentions koji (which he calls koos), but he does not understand what it is, how it functions, or how it is made.
1727 – Miso is fi rst mentioned in an English-language publication, The History of Japan, by Englebert Kaempfer. He spells it “Midsu, a mealy Pap, which they dress their Victuals withal, as we do butter.”
1750 Dec. – Soy sauce fi rst reaches North America – arriving fi rst in New York Harbor bearing the name “India Soy.” It was made in Japan and exported by the Dutch East India Co.
to Amsterdam; from there it made its way to New York.
1797 – The Nihon Sankai Meisan Zue [Illustrations of Japanese Products of Land and Sea] contains the earliest known illustration of koji being made in Japan; the koji is then shown being made into sake.
1804 – San Jirushi starts making tamari shoyu and miso in Kuwana, Japan. The company name was changed in 1909 from ‘Minato-ya’ to ‘Sato Shinnosuke Shoten’ and fi nally to ‘San-Jirushi Brewing Corporation’ in 1963 (Earle 1988).
1853 July 8 – A fl eet of ships headed by Commodore Matthew Perry (USA) arrives in Japan to “open” Japan to trade with the West. For the previous 220 years, during the Tokugawa period (1600-1868) the ruling shoguns had initiated a policy of self-imposed isolation (sakoku) or exclusion to keep out foreign infl uences.
1867 – A Japanese and English Dictionary (1st edition), by James C. Hepburn, is published. Many soy-related words and terms appear. * = word fi rst appears in English in this dictionary: Amazake * Daidz [Daizu] Go – Beans mashed into paste. Gokoku – The fi ve cereals, incl. beans. Hirodz * [Hirodzu, Hiryozu] Kinako * Kiradz * [Kiradzu, Kirazu = okara] Koji * Mame Mame no ko Miso Natto * Nigari Sh’taji * [Shitaji = woman’s word for soy sauce] Shoyu * Tofu * Yuba * Yu-dofu
1868 Sept. 12 – The Meiji Restoration in Japan begins. Formal coronation of the emperor Meiji. He is the fi rst emperor of Japan with real power since 1192 – during which time the military shoguns had held the real power. Oct. 23 – The name of his era is changed…
HISTORY OF SOYBEANS AND SOYFOODS IN JAPAN,
AND IN JAPANESE COOKBOOKS AND RESTAURANTS
OUTSIDE JAPAN (701 CE TO 2014):
EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED
BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK
See also: How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought Soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands – A History (1851-2011)
Jokichi Takamine (1854-1922) and Caroline Hitch Takamine (1866-1954): Biography and Bibliography
Compiled
by
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Copyright (c) 2014 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher.
Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com
ISBN 9781928914655 (History of Soy in Japan without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-65-5 (History of Soy in Japan with hyphens)
Printed 19 Feb. 2014
Search engine keywords:
History of Soybeans in Japan History of Soyabeans in Japan History of Soybean in Japan History of Soy in Japan History of Soya in Japan History of Soyfoods in Japan History of Soyafoods in Japan History of Tofu in Japan History of Miso in Japan History of Soy Sauce in Japan History of Soymilk in Japan History of Soy Milk in Japan History of Edamame in Japan History of Green Vegetable Soybeans in Japan History of Yuba in Japan History of Natto in Japan History of Fermented Black Soybeans in Japan History of Kinako in Japan
Bibliography of Soybeans in Japan Bibliography of Soybean in Japan Bibliography of Soy in Japan Bibliography of Soya in Japan Bibliography of Soyfoods in Japan Bibliography of Tofu in Japan
Bibliography of Miso in Japan Bibliography of Soy Sauce in Japan Bibliography of Edamame in Japan Bibliography of Yuba in Japan Bibliography of Natto in Japan Bibliography of Fermented Black Soybeans in Japan Bibliography of Kinako in Japan
Timeline of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan Timeline of Soybeans in Japan Timeline of Soyabeans in Japan Timeline of Soy in Japan Timeline of Soya in Japan Timeline of Soyfoods in Japan Timeline of Soyafoods in Japan
Chronology of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan Chronology of Soybeans in Japan Chronology of Soyabeans in Japan Chronology of Soy in Japan Chronology of Soya in Japan Chronology of Soyfoods in Japan Chronology of Soyafoods in Japan
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 3
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Contents
Page
About This Book ........................................................................................................................................................... 12
Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 13
How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 14
Full-Page Graphics ................................................................................................................................................. 16-24
History of Soybeans and Soyfoods in Japan: 11,505 References in Chronological Order ..................................... 25
Contains 445 Photographs and Illustrations
Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................. 3224
Last Page of Index ..................................................................................................................................................... 3377
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 4
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting people from around the world who share a common interest, and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks...
Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out:
University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey.
Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman.
Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special help on Slavic-language documents.
National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Tanner Wray.
Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache.
Lane Medical Library at Stanford University.
Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Cartmill, Linda Barbero.
Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas.
French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s.
DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman.
We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in collecting the documents, building the library, and producing the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed:
Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga, Tanya Kochan.
Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California.
For outstanding help on this book about Japan we thank: Mr. & Mrs. Kinjiro Aoyagi, Toshio Arai, Linda Barber, Alfred Birnbaum, Steve Earle, Hideo Ebine, Danji Fukushima, Naomichi Ishige, Makiko Kageura, Goro Kanatsugi, Wataru Kawamura, Akiyoshi Kazama,Yoshiko Kojima, Yasuo Kumoda, Michio and Aveline Kushi, Harry W. Miller, Tsutomu Mochizuki, Yuzaburo Mogi, Kiku Murata, Masahiro Nakano, Teruo Ohta, Jean Pearce, Rustono, Scott Sawyers, Wataru Takai, Kazuhiro Takamine, Yasuko Torii, Kanji Tsuchiya, Luisa Velez, Hidekazu Watanabe,Tokuji Watanabe, Masaaki Yasuda, Tamotsu Yokotsuka,
Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible.
This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff.
This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject.
This book is dedicated to generations of soyfoods makers and researchers, and soybean growers in Japan.
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 5
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
INTRODUCTION
Brief chronology of soybeans and soyfoods in Japan.
701 CE – The Taih Ritsury [Taiho Law Codes], by Emperor Monmu, which some regard as Japan’s fi rst constitution, is the earliest document seen that mentions soyfoods (and by implication soybeans) in Japan. It is also the earliest document outside of China to mention fermented black soybeans (FBS), which it calls “kuki” or “shi.” These law codes established the Hishio Tsukasa, or Bureau for the Regulation of Hishio Production, Trade and Taxation. The Hishio Tsukasa, located in the Imperial Palace, was an annex of the emperor’s kitchen, where hishio was made. Using methods very similar to those developed in China, it transformed soybeans into hishio (which resembled Chinese jiang), fermented black soybeans (kuki or shi), and misho (an ancestor of miso; the term “miso” had not yet been coined). These foods and seasonings were consumed at the Imperial Household (Shurtleff & Aoyagi 1978, p. 219). FBS are again mentioned in Japan in 718, 730, and 923. In 675 the fi rst prohibition of meat eating in Japan was promulgated by Emperor Tenmu. Similar decrees, based on the Buddhist prohibition of killing, were issued repeatedly by emperors during the eighth and ninth centuries. Soyfoods gradually began to supply the savory fl avor and protein that formerly had come from meat. Not until the 1860s did meat- eating resume in Japan, and not until after World War II did it become part of Japanese culture (Ishige 2001, p. 52-55, 146-153).
712 CE – The mythical story of the origin of the soybean in Japan is told in the Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters).
720 CE – The mythical story of the origin of the soybean in Japan is told again in the Nihon Shoki / Nihongi (Chronicles of Early Japan).
725 CE – The Harima no Kuni Fudoki [Geography and Culture of Harima province], from Japan, is the fi rst document that mentions koji outside of China. It states that by the early 8th century in Japan, koji was being made using airborne koji molds.
741 CE – Two new Buddhist temples are added to each feudal domain (kuni) in Japan: Kokubunji is for monks and Kokubunniji is for nuns. It is said that from this time, fermented black soybeans (tera natt, or shiokara natt) spread throughout Japan. They are made from soybean koji, which is soaked in salted water and dried.
760 CE – The Manysh (Collection of Japan’s Earliest
Songs and Poems) (from 350-759 CE) mentions koji – the 2nd earliest Japanese work to do so.
794 CE – The capital of Japan is relocated to Kyoto from Nara. The Heian period (794-857) begins.
901-08 CE – The modern word for miso fi rst appears in Japan in the Sandai Jitsuroku.
927 CE – The Engishiki is completed by Fujiwara no Tokihira (871-811) and others. In this book it is written: “In the feudal domain of Omi 60 koku of soybeans [1 koku = 47.6 gallons or 180 liters], in the domain of Tanba 30 koku, in the domain of Harima 20 koku, in the domain of Misa 10 koku, and in the domain of Iyo 10 koku are recommended (susumu).” It seems that the soybean was now an important crop in Japan.
1051-1083 – The origin of natto is obscure. According to legend, it was discovered accidentally in northeast Japan by Minamoto (Hachimantaro) Yoshiie when warm, cooked soybeans, placed in a rice-straw sack on the back of a horse, turned into natto. The warmth of the horse (106 deg. F.) helped the fermentation; natto prefers 104 deg. F.
1058-1068 – The word “natto” fi rst appears in Japan, but it refers to “salty natto” (shiokara natt) (fermented black soybeans) rather than to “sticky soybeans” (itohiki natto). In about 1068 salty natto are fi rst mentioned in Japan in the book Shin Sarugakki, [New Monkey Play Story: A humorous novel…] by Fujiwara no Akihara (lived 989-1066).
1183 Jan. – Tofu is fi rst mentioned in Japan in the Diary of Hiroshige Nakaomi.
1192 – The Kamakura period and shogunate begins as Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199) becomes the fi rst head shogun. The seat of power has been moved from Kyoto (where the emperor resides) to far-away Kamakura, near today’s Tokyo.
1228 – The Buddhist monk Kakushin returns to Japan from Song / Sung dynasty China having learned the method for making fermented Kinzanji miso. While fermenting the miso in Japan, he discovers that the liquid (tamari) which gathers on the bottom of the vats can be used as a tasty seasoning. This tamari is considered to be the fi rst soy sauce in Japan.
1275 July 26 – Edamamé (green vegetable soybeans in the pods) are fi rst mentioned in Japan (or worldwide) in a letter
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 6
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
from Nichiren, the Japanese Buddhist saint. In a letter to Mr. Takahashi, one of the parishioners at his temple, he says “Thank you for the edamamé.”
1288-1292 – Tamari-style shoyu is fi rst sold from Yuasa in the Kishu area (in today’s Wakayama prefecture).
1405 Dec. 19 – Natto (itohiki natto) is fi rst mentioned in the diary of Noritoki Fujiwara; it is called itohiki daizu (“stringy soybeans”).
1450 – The word “natto,” referring to itohiki-natto, is next used in Japan in the Shojin Gyorui Monogatari. This is a funny story about foods that are depicted as people and a battle for rank between vegetarian and nonvegetarian foods. Natto, called “Natto Taro” or “Natto Taro Itogasane” (the last word meaning “many threads”) is given a high rank.
1540? – Mame no ko, the early Japanese word for roasted soy fl our, fi rst appears in the Nyb Shitsukegaki [Women’s Book of Manners] – according to the Nihon Kokugo Daijiten.
1542 Jan. 1 – Mame no ko appears again in the Tamon-in Nikki [Tamon-in Diary].
1587 June 19 – Kinako, the modern Japanese word for roasted whole soy fl our, fi rst appears in the Sotan Chakai Kondate Nikki [Master Sotan’s Tea Ceremony Cookery Menu Diary] – in the morning menu.
1603 – Vocabulario da Lingoa de Iapam [Vocabulary of the Language of Japan], a Japanese-Portuguese dictionary, is compiled and published by Jesuit missionaries in Nagasaki, Japan. There are entries for: Abura ague [Abura-agé, deep-fried tofu pouches] Amazaqe [Amazake], a still-bubbling fermented liquid that has not yet completely become sake; or sweet sake. Azzuqi or azzuqui [azuki beans]. Cabe [Kabe]. Same as tofu. Côji [Koji], a yeast [sic] used in Japan to make sake, or mixed with other things Daizzu [Daizu, whole dry soybeans]. Dengacu [Dengaku]. Dancing monks or skewered tofu spread with miso and broiled. Fanben [Hanben]. A type of food which is made by broiling tofu and simmering it with miso. Icchô. A way of counting some types of food, such as tofu. Miso. A kind of mixture which is made with graos [grains, seeds, kernels], rice, and salt to season Japanese soups. Misocoxi [Misokoshi], a bamboo strainer used for straining miso. Misoya, a shop that sells miso.
Misoyaqijiru [Miso-yaki-jiru], a type of soup (Xiru) made with tofu and fi nely sliced daikon radish. Misôzzu, which should properly be called Zosui, is a healing food made from vegetables, rice, miso, etc. Nattô, a type of food made by a brief boiling of grains / seeds [graos], which are then put into an incubation chamber (muro). Nattôjiru, a soup (Xiru) made from natto. Tamari, a very savory liquid taken from miso which can be used for seasoning foods [when cooking] or at table. Tôfu* – Taufu. A type of food. It is made into the shape of a cheese by crushing soybeans. Tôfuya – Taufuya, a shop which makes and sells that cheese-like thing (tofu), which is made by grinding soybeans that have been soaked in water until they are soft. Vdondôfu [Udon-dôfu]. Tofu which is made like udon (Japanese-style wheat noodles) and cooked. Xôyu [Shoyu, or soy sauce], a liquid which corresponds to vinegar except that it is salty. It is used for seasoning foods. It is also called sutate. Yudôfu – Yudaufu: A food made from thinly sliced tofu, served next to a kakejiru-type sauce [which is then poured over the top].
1605 –Tokugawa Ieyasu in Japan commands the monks at Daifukuji temple to make Hamana Natto – a type of fermented black soybeans, later known as Hamanatto (Saito 1985, p. 14-16).
1633 – The Tokugawa shogunate (upset at Portuguese Christian missionaries intent on making converts and instigating revolts) adopts a policy of national isolation which continues for 221 years until 1854. In 1639 the Portuguese are expelled. This leaves only the Dutch among the Europeans still trading with Japan.
1639 – By this time the Japanese had so successfully closed their doors to the outside world that subsequently Japan all but dropped out of the consciousness of Europeans. The only important exception was the annual Dutch vessel from the East Indies to the Dutch trading post on the island of Hirado, then Deshima in Nagasaki harbor.
1641 – The Dutch and their representatives are moved from Hirado to the tiny artifi cial island of Deshima / Dejima built by the shogunate in Nagasaki harbor, where they were kept as virtual prisoners. During this time Japan maintained contact with only two other nations: China and Korea. Chinese merchants were also allowed to trade at Nagasaki, but under strict controls.
1647 Oct. 16 – Japanese soy sauce (shoyu) is now being exported from Nagasaki, Japan, by the Dutch East India Company. In the earliest known handwritten letter (in Dutch)
HISTORY OF SOY IN JAPAN 7
Copyright © 2014 by Soyinfo Center
it is called soije (Int. Comptoir Nagasaekij). The Dutch merchants who exported shoyu in kegs from Japan did their best to spell it as it sounded – phonetically. Here is how that spelling evolved – based on documents now at Soyinfo Center; each appears in this book:
1647 Oct. – soije 1651 June – sooje 1652 July – soij 1652 Aug. – soije 1652 Oct. – soije 1652 Oct. – zoije 1654 July – soijo 1655 Aug. – soija 1656 March – soeije 1657 Aug. – soija 1659 Aug. – soija 1660 June – soije 1665 Feb. – soija 1669 Feb. – soija 1669 Feb. – soija 1674 Nov. – sooij 1675 Nov. – soija 1676 March – soija 1676 June – soija 1678 Nov. – soija 1680 June – soije
Note: The words “soy,” “soya” and “soja,” and the term “soy sauce” came into English from the Japanese word shyu via the Dutch. Thus, the name of the soybean was derived from the name of the sauce made from it.
1661 – Kikkoman traces its origins to this date when the Takanashi and Mogi families constructed breweries and started brewing soy sauce (Fruin 1983).
1712 – Englebert Kaempfer, a German who lived in Japan, is the fi rst European to give detailed descriptions of how miso and shoyu are made in Japan – in his landmark Latin- language book Amoenitatum exoticarum politico-physico- medicarum [Exotic novelties, political, physical, medical, Vol. 5, p. 834-35]. He also mentions koji (which he calls koos), but he does not understand what it is, how it functions, or how it is made.
1727 – Miso is fi rst mentioned in an English-language publication, The History of Japan, by Englebert Kaempfer. He spells it “Midsu, a mealy Pap, which they dress their Victuals withal, as we do butter.”
1750 Dec. – Soy sauce fi rst reaches North America – arriving fi rst in New York Harbor bearing the name “India Soy.” It was made in Japan and exported by the Dutch East India Co.
to Amsterdam; from there it made its way to New York.
1797 – The Nihon Sankai Meisan Zue [Illustrations of Japanese Products of Land and Sea] contains the earliest known illustration of koji being made in Japan; the koji is then shown being made into sake.
1804 – San Jirushi starts making tamari shoyu and miso in Kuwana, Japan. The company name was changed in 1909 from ‘Minato-ya’ to ‘Sato Shinnosuke Shoten’ and fi nally to ‘San-Jirushi Brewing Corporation’ in 1963 (Earle 1988).
1853 July 8 – A fl eet of ships headed by Commodore Matthew Perry (USA) arrives in Japan to “open” Japan to trade with the West. For the previous 220 years, during the Tokugawa period (1600-1868) the ruling shoguns had initiated a policy of self-imposed isolation (sakoku) or exclusion to keep out foreign infl uences.
1867 – A Japanese and English Dictionary (1st edition), by James C. Hepburn, is published. Many soy-related words and terms appear. * = word fi rst appears in English in this dictionary: Amazake * Daidz [Daizu] Go – Beans mashed into paste. Gokoku – The fi ve cereals, incl. beans. Hirodz * [Hirodzu, Hiryozu] Kinako * Kiradz * [Kiradzu, Kirazu = okara] Koji * Mame Mame no ko Miso Natto * Nigari Sh’taji * [Shitaji = woman’s word for soy sauce] Shoyu * Tofu * Yuba * Yu-dofu
1868 Sept. 12 – The Meiji Restoration in Japan begins. Formal coronation of the emperor Meiji. He is the fi rst emperor of Japan with real power since 1192 – during which time the military shoguns had held the real power. Oct. 23 – The name of his era is changed…
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