History of Fashion - costume through the decades.

History of Fashion- costume through the decades

Why Fashion?Fashions move ever forward at a dramatic pace due to several factors:

Change of seasons

Planned obsolescence

Technological advances

Conspicuous consumption …

“a term used to describe the lavish spending on goods and services acquired mainly for the purpose of displaying income or wealth.”

1900-1910 – Edwardian Era

British class system was very rigid

However, economic and social changes also created an environment in which there was more social mobility than previously

Changes included rising interest in socialism, attention to the plight of the poor and the status of women

Together with increased economic opportunities as a result of rapid industrialization.

These changes were to be hastened in the aftermath of the first World War.

Sport

1908 summer Olympics held in LondonSport becoming more popularMore flexible clothing styles were neededCorset modified

Silhouettes – early 1900s

Lots of undergarmentsVoluptuous shapeLow waist

Late 1900s

Paul Poiret points the way to a new silhouette, with a high waist and narrow, ankle-length skirts, 1908Beginnings of the ‘Hobble skirt’Exotica and travel influenced these changes

1910 – 1920 First half of decade full with riches and opulence

World War 1 had a huge impact on dress in the second half of the decade (1914-1918)

Unstable money market

New fabrics and technologies developed

Women began working as there were fewer men at home

Women began to wear trousers or breeches to work on the land or in factories

Fabrics and clothing became more practical based

Silhouette - first half of the

century

Column-like

Higher waists

Masculine influences beginning to appear

Silhouette - second half of the century

Fuller SkirtsHems rising – ankle visible for the first time!Hair beginning to be cut short into bobs

1920-1930Fashion entered the modern era. The 1920s were characterized by two distinct periods of fashionThe early 1920s were relatively conservative in nature and change progressed slowly as many were reluctant to adopt the new stylesFrom 1925, the styles that have been associated with the Roaring Twenties were passionately embraced by the public The public spirit was light-hearted, young and hedonistic but also very forward thinking

AmericaAmerica entered a prosperous eraWomen were allowed to voteAnd joined the workforce

Sport was again very important and had a huge influence on clothing

Silhouette The straight-line chemise worn with a close-fitting cloche hat became the uniform for daywear

Boyish and sporty looks were made popular by Jean Patou

Women "bobbed," or cut, their hair short to fit under the popular hats

Low-waist dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women dance the Charleston.

1930-1940 (pre-WW2)The light hearted forward-looking attitude and fashions of the late 1920s lingered through most of 1930

But by the end of 1931 the effects of the Great Depression began to affect the public and a more conservative approach to fashion returned

For women, skirts became longer and the waist-line was returned up to its normal position in an attempt to bring back a more feminine look

Technological Advances

This period saw the first widespread use of synthetic fibresViscose was used for linings and lingerie Nylon stockings and plastic zips became widely used

Foreign Travel

With the advances in technology and increasing availability of commercial flights foreign travel became more popularIt was now fashionable for the first time to have a sun-tanNew styles influenced by beachwear became popularThe Influence of American film was becoming increasingly importantAlong with Health and fitness

1930 – 1940 Silhouette

Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a more structured look for women’s clothing

Shoulder pads and sleeve details very important

By the late '30s, emphasis was moving to the back, with halter necklines and high-necked but backless evening gowns with sleeves

1930 – 1940 SilhouetteSkirts remained at mid-calf length for day

Towards the end of the 1930s skirts were reaching just below the knee

This was a practical length and would remain in style for day dresses through the war years.

1940 – 1950: War Time restrictions

Wartime led to restrictions on the amount of new clothing people could buy

Money saving was very important

Dresses became shorter and were made with less fullness to reduce the amount of fabric needed

Make-Do-and-Mend became a national campaign

1940 – 1950: War Time Restrictions

Rations meant that nylon stocking were not available

Women would sometimes paint on stockings instead

Most women wore knee-length skirts with simply-cut blouses and square-shouldered jackets.

Trousers were becoming increasingly popular for workwear, but were still not fully acceptable for leisurewear.

Dior’s New Look

When the French fashion houses reopened after World War II, Dior introduced the "New Look" silhouette

1950 – 1960: early years

Early 1950’s was still dominated by Dior’s New Look and very feminine styling with nipped in waists and full skirtsFashion was nostalgic and looking to the past for inspirationBalenciaga, Dior and Chanel were all very influential in this periodWomen were slowly beginning to wear trousers as an everyday item

The American Look

American films were again very influential

Stars such as grace Kelly and Marylyn Monroe were widely copied

Off-the-Peg clothing was much more available than ever before and of a higher quality

Late 1950’sRising teenage market with more freedoms than ever before

And with a higher disposable income

Influenced by music

Beginnings of short-lived trends and throw-away society

‘Teddy-Boys’ and ‘Greasers’ first appeared.

1960 – 1970

Early 1960’s women still fairly conservatively dressedFocus of fashion beginning to change from Paris to LondonFashion starting to be led by people on the street rather than by a few elite Parisian designers

1960’sCulottes very popular in early 1960sBikini became fashionable Mini-skirt invented…But it was not adopted by the general public until the late 1960’sCarnaby Street in London was the coolest area to shop for fashion conscious teenagers

1960’s Design Influences

Technology once again had a huge impact on fashionSpace travel and man first landing on the moon (1969) Futuristic films and fashions followed

1970-1980: Early Style Influences

Garment shapes became a lot more fluid and floatyStarted with the Hippy look that originated in the late 1960’sJeans were a now a wardrobe staple for both women and men Tie-dye was popularVery strong music influence

1970-1990: Early Style Influences

Tunics and Indian styles popular in early 1960sSkirt lengths varied between Mini, Midi and Maxi Platform shoes were worn by both men and women

Late 1970’s

Disco music and styles became popularIncreasing availability of man-made fibresMore colours and shiny fabrics available than ever before.

1980 – 1990

Punk began as an underground movement in the late 1970’s and became an important part of 1980’s fashionMalcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood brought the punk look into mainstream fashion

1980 – 1990

The 80’s had an wide mix of fashions and styles influenced by many different factors:Power DressingNew Romantic LookRap MusicDynasty and DallasMONEY!

and now.. Supermaket of style