1 Hillsborough Architectural Survey September 13, 2017 Prepared by: Heather Wagner Slane hmwPreservation Photography, Field & Research Assistance by Megan Privett
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1
Hillsborough Architectural Survey
September 13, 2017
Prepared by: Heather Wagner Slane hmwPreservation
Photography, Field & Research Assistance by Megan Privett
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Project History and Overview .................................................................................................. 4
Survey Methodology ............................................................................................................... 6
Historic Context ....................................................................................................................... 8
Hillsborough’s Population & Annexation ....................................................................... 8
Manufacturing in West Hillsborough ........................................................................... 10
African American Neighborhoods ............................................................................... 15
Travel, Tourism, and Recreation ................................................................................. 18
Architectural Context ............................................................................................................. 22
Residential Development ............................................................................................ 22
Residential Architecture .............................................................................................. 23
Commercial Architecture ............................................................................................ 27
Institutional/Religious Architecture ............................................................................. 29
Cemeteries .................................................................................................................. 30
Recommendations ................................................................................................................ 32
Bibliography .......................................................................................................................... 33
Appendix A: List of Surveyed Properties .............................................................................. 35
Appendix B: Study List Information and Justification ........................................................... 37
3
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1. Map of Study Area ................................................................................................... 5 Figure 2. Hillsborough Population Data ................................................................................... 8 Figure 3. 1955 reproduction of the Plan of the Town of Hillsborough .................................... 9 Figure 4. Bellevue Manufacturing Company ......................................................................... 10 Figure 5. 1958 plat of Bellevue Mill Village ............................................................................ 11 Figure 6. 1913 Plat of West Hill Property-Hillsboro NC ........................................................ 12 Figure 7. North Hillsborough Neighborhoods ....................................................................... 16 Figure 8. 1972 Plat of Daniel Boone Recreation Park ........................................................... 20 Figure 9. 1943 Plat of Fairview .............................................................................................. 22 Figure 10. 1945 Plat of Homemont (OR2995) ....................................................................... 23 Figure 11. 1953 Plat of Hillsborough Heights (OR2993) ....................................................... 23 Figure 12. Bellevue Manufacturing Company’s Superintendent’s House (OR3030) ............ 24 Figure 13. Farmhouse (OR3038) ........................................................................................... 24 Figure 14. Ernest P. Cox House (OR3026) ............................................................................ 24 Figure 15. One-and-a-half story Bellevue Mill House (OR3032) ........................................... 25 Figure 16. Front-gabled Bellevue Mill House (OR3033) ........................................................ 25 Figure 17. Weldon Riley House (OR3012) ............................................................................. 25 Figure 18. Eno United Methodist Church Parsonage (OR3011) ........................................... 26 Figure 19. House (OR3004) ................................................................................................... 26 Figure 20. Minimal Traditional-style houses in Homemont (OR2995) ................................... 26 Figure 21. Payne Rental Houses (OR3029) ........................................................................... 27 Figure 22. J. H. and Pauline McAdams House (OR3002) ..................................................... 27 Figure 23. Ranch House in the Fairview Subdivision (OR2997) ............................................ 27 Figure 24. Bellevue Commercial Block (OR3036) ................................................................. 28 Figure 25. Cole Motor Company (OR3000) ........................................................................... 28 Figure 26. Ja-Max Motor Lodge (OR3001) ............................................................................ 28 Figure 27. Daniel Boone Inn, Daniel Boone Village (OR3040) ............................................... 29 Figure 28. Eno United Methodist Church (OR3010) .............................................................. 29 Figure 29. Hillsborough Pentecostal Holiness Church (OR3015) .......................................... 29 Figure 30. Central Elementary School (OR3037) ................................................................... 30 Figure 31. (New) Town Cemetery (OR3031) .......................................................................... 30 Figure 32. Maplewood Cemetery (OR3005) .......................................................................... 31
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PROJECT HISTORY AND OVERVIEW In 2016, Hillsborough received a Historic Preservation Fund (HPF) grant from the North Carolina State Historic Preservation Office (NC-HPO) and contracted with hmwPreservation to undertake an architectural survey of historic resources within the Hillsborough municipal boundary, but outside of the Hillsborough National Register Historic District. Much of the town of Hillsborough was documented in 1973 when the resources within the original town boundary were placed on the National Register of Historic Places as the Hillsborough Historic District. The survey of that area, and the National Register documentation, were updated in 2014. Resources throughout rural Orange County, surrounding the Town of Hillsborough, were comprehensively surveyed in 1993. Additional photography and edits to that survey were performed by Orange County in 2006. A comprehensive survey update of the rural portions of Orange County, including properties in the Hillsborough ETJ, was completed in 2016. However, neither the Hillsborough Historic District surveys, nor the Orange County rural surveys, had previously considered resources within the municipal boundary but outside of the historic district. As a result, only eleven resources had been documented in the study area, prior to the current survey. The primary objective of the 2016-2017 architectural survey of Hillsborough was to identify historic resources within the municipal town limits, but outside of the National Register boundary, that have not previously been surveyed (see Figure 1). The survey focused on those resources constructed prior to 1971 and included the Bellevue Mill Village, West Hillsborough, the African American developments of Fairview, Northern Heights, and Homemont, as well as the Daniel Boone Village complex and any additional areas of post-World War II development, specifically along US 70 and NC 86.
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Figure 1. Map of Study Area
Survey area includes the areas shaded dark grey, but excluding those within the green National Register boundary.
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Parcels
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NC Railroad
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ETJ
6
SURVEY METHODOLOGY The preparation of this architectural survey update focused on the documentation of historic resources within the Hillsborough town boundary, excluding the Hillsborough National Register Historic District. Fieldwork took place from February 2017 through March 2017. Heather Slane served as the principal investigator with field and research assistance by Megan Privett. Surveyors used maps and notes generated by the Hillsborough and Orange County planning departments to identify resources constructed prior to 1970 that likely warranted architectural survey. Windshield survey of the study area in January 2017 identified 50 of these properties that merited full survey. Properties selected for full survey are those with high architectural and material integrity, specifically those properties that illustrate a distinctive building type, style, or use or an unusual construction method or material. Additionally, properties that appear to be the best representations of a common form or style were selected. Finally, the study area includes five mid-twentieth century neighborhoods. These areas were surveyed as complete neighborhoods utilizing district/neighborhood/area database records with survey and written summaries addressing the area overall rather than each of its components. The selected properties were assigned survey site numbers and documented with field survey forms, written descriptions, and photos. Basic archival research, including the use of plats, city directories, and additional property records were used as appropriate to provide additional data for significant properties and neighborhoods. On-site interviews were conducted as available and special notation made of properties that appear potentially eligible for listing in the National Register of Historic Places. Material gathered during fieldwork and research were used to create database records and paper files on surveyed properties and neighborhoods. Database After the completion of the field survey and preparation of written summaries, the HPO database was populated for each property or neighborhood and report forms were generated from the database for inclusion in the paper survey files. A digital copy of the database was presented to both the NC-HPO and Hillsborough Planning Department staff for the Hillsborough Historic District Commission. Photographs Digital survey photos were taken from the public right-of-way, when possible, using a digital SLR camera. Photos included both primary and secondary resources, were labeled according to the NC-HPO guidelines, and contact sheets were printed for inclusion in the paper survey files. A DVD of all labeled survey photos was prepared for the NC-HPO and Hillsborough Planning Department staff for the Hillsborough Historic District Commission. Paper Files Paper files include the field survey notes, printed contact sheets, and printed database records, as well as any related primary sources. Maps Digital and paper maps with the boundaries of the study areas and street names were provided by the Town of Hillsborough for use during the field survey. These maps were used, as possible, to illustrate the report. Individual maps and plats of specific
7
neighborhoods/developments were collected or created and included in the survey files as well as in the report. Survey Report The written report outlines the project methodology and includes recommendations for further study. The methodology summarizes the sources used, properties surveyed, and criteria considered for selecting buildings and neighborhoods for survey. The report also includes additional historic context for the mid-twentieth-century development of Hillsborough as well as an architectural context to cover the major mid-twentieth-century styles represented in the survey areas. The consultant will present the findings of the survey at up to two public information meetings in Hillsborough. Study List Recommendations Included in the survey report are a list of properties considered by the consultant to be eligible for listing to the National Register of Historic Places, specifically those properties that appear to have exceptional historic or architectural significance and a high level of material integrity. The report explains why each property was selected. The consultant will present these properties to the North Carolina National Register Advisory Committee for consideration for listing to the NC-HPO National Register Study List.
8
HISTORIC CONTEXT Hillsborough’s Population & Annexation As the county seat of Orange County, Hillsborough has always served a variety of governmental functions as well as a commercial market for portions of the surrounding rural county. Historically bounded by the Norfolk Southern Railroad on the south and US Highway 70 on the north, the town was connected to larger commercial centers in Durham and Greensboro, but itself had little industry (outside of West Hillsborough) and remained only a small commercial center for the local population. The Town of Hillsborough experienced incremental growth in the early twentieth century, but population figures stagnated mid-century before rising sharply beginning in the 1970s.
Census Year Population 1900 707 1910 857 1920 1,180 1930 1,232 1940 1,311 1950 1,329 1960 1,349 1970 1,444 1980 3,019 1990 4,263 2000 5,446 2010 6,087
Figure 2. Hillsborough Population Data Population figures alone do not accurately represent the growth of Hillsborough in the twentieth century, as they do not take into account the community of West Hillsborough, serving the Eno and Bellevue mills west of town, and other development outside of the original town boundary. The town of Hillsborough, on which populations statistics are based, was limited to the one-square-mile town, platted in 1754 and centered on Churton and King streets (see Figure 3). In 1966, however, the Town began to annex the surrounding property, beginning with residential areas immediately northeast of the town on Cameron and Ruffin streets and the Bellevue Mill and mill village west of town. Annexations continued at regular intervals throughout the late-twentieth century and still continue. Most additions measure less than 10 acres and encompass single residential or commercial developments, though several substantial annexations occurred in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. Among the largest of these were the annexation of West Hillsborough in 1976 and Hillsborough Heights to its north in 1977, both of which likely account for the significant increase in the town’s population between 1970 and 1980. The annexation of “Northern Fairview” in 1988 included nearly 150 acres of land and much of the mid-century African American development in the town.1
1 Town of Hillsborough Planning Department.
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Figure 3. 1955 reproduction of the Plan of the Town of Hillsborough
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Manufacturing in West Hillsborough West Hillsborough experienced significant growth in the early twentieth century, thriving with the success of the textile industry. The Eno Cotton Mill (NR2011) and Bellevue Manufacturing Company (NR2003), which opened in 1897 and 1909 respectively, provided the largest number of jobs in Hillsborough in the early decades of the twentieth century. Both companies erected mill villages adjacent to their factories, but the sheer number of employees as well as the distance (nearly a mile) to downtown Hillsborough, necessitated the construction of additional housing, businesses, churches, and schools to serve the population of mill workers. Thus, West Hillsborough was platted in 1913, extending north and west of the Eno Cotton Mill and Bellevue Manufacturing Company, and experienced significant development in the early twentieth century. Eno Cotton Mill The Eno Cotton Mill was constructed by Allen J. Ruffin and James H. Webb, prominent Hillsborough residents and landowners, beginning in 1896 and is located on the north bank of the Eno River and just south of the Norfolk Southern Railroad, south of West Hillsborough. The mill experienced immediate growth and was enlarged numerous times throughout the early twentieth century. By 1913, the company had 632 looms and 20,000 spindles for the manufacture of gingham.2 The demand for fabrics for the military during World War II furthered the growth of the Eno Cotton Mill and by the 1940s, it employed as many as 600 workers covering three shifts.3 Ruffin and Webb, recognizing the need to house their rapidly growing workforce, constructed the Eno Cotton Mill village with houses rented to employees for 25 cents a week in 1915. The 1924 Sanborn Company map shows approximately 100 mill houses located west and south of the mill. However, by the late 1940s, owners of the Eno Cotton Mill were faced with the expense of adding bathrooms and modern plumbing to the houses as well as rising costs of maintenance. By 1952, the Eno Cotton Mill was experiencing financial loss and was sold to Cone Mills. The company owned 148 houses in 1953, but beginning in 1956, the Eno Mill houses were sold to residents for $25 a room, provided that the new owner would move the house.4 Thus, many of the houses were moved into West Hillsborough, north of the railroad tracks, changing the landscape of West Hillsborough dramatically while others were moved to rural areas just outside of the town limits.
2 Edge, Cathleen and Carrie Ehrfurth. “Eno Cotton Mill,” Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 2013, pg. 11. 3 Ryan, Elizabeth Shreve. Orange County Trio: Hillsborough, Chapel Hill, and Carrboro, North Carolina Histories and Tour Guides. Chapel Hill: Chapel Hill Press, Inc., 2004, pg. 60. 4 Edge, pg. 20.
Figure 4. Bellevue Manufacturing Company (photo courtesy of OpenOrangeNC.org)
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Bellevue Manufacturing Company Constructed in 1909 by local entrepreneur Shepperd Strudwick, the Bellevue Manufacturing Company was built on the west side of South Nash Street, just west of what was then the town boundary. The mill experienced very similar growth to that of the Eno Cotton Mill in the early twentieth century, fueled by local investors as well as a local workforce, a result of the declining agricultural sector.5 As early as 1912, the mill had 5,000 spindles and 200 narrow looms.6 The mill was expanded several times in the 1920s, more than doubling the number of spindles and looms during that period. Purchased by Hesslein and Company in 1945, the Bellevue Manufacturing Company employed 355 workers making ginghams and related fabrics by 1952.7 The Bellevue Manufacturing Company contributed to the development of West Hillsborough just as the Eno Cotton Mill did. Strudwick acquired Allen Ruffin’s tract of land north of the mill in 1905, prior to the construction of the mill, likely with the intention of building mill houses for its employees. The housing appears to have been constructed in the 1910s and early 1920s, roughly aligning with expansions of the mill in 1920 and 1923, with all of the houses extant on the 1924 Sanborn Company map. Like Eno Cotton Mill, the company experienced a decline after the post-World War II boom and by 1956, the company had been sold. Platted in 1958 (see Figure 5), the mill housing was then sold into private ownership as well, though unlike the Eno Mill villages, the Bellevue Manufacturing Company housing remains in place with the original arrangement of houses and streets. West Hillsborough Prior to the construction of the Eno Cotton Mill and Bellevue Manufacturing Company, few people lived in what would become West Hillsborough. The area was mostly farmland, though the Hillsborough Military Academy existed on what is now the far west end of West Hillsborough, along Barrack Street. The military academy, established in 1859, operated off and on throughout the mid- to late-nineteenth century. It served a vital role, training soldiers for
5 Lamprakos, Michele and Edwin Belk, “Bellevue Manufacturing Company” National Register Nomination. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 2003, Section 8, page 2. 6 Lamprakos, Section 8, page 3. 7 Ryan, pg. 62 and Lefler, Hugh and Wager, Paul, eds. Orange County 1752-1952. Chapel Hill: Orange Printshop, 1953, pg. 275.
Figure 5. 1958 plat of Bellevue Mill Village
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the Confederate army during the Civil War, but closed in the 1870s.8 The school, being nearly two miles east of downtown Hillsborough, was never associated with, nor did it contribute significantly to the growth or history of the town. The barracks were demolished in 1938 and today only the Commandant’s House (NR1972) and a dining hall (OR3007) remained, though landscape features on the west side of Barracks Street date to the era of the academy. The land was sold in 1891 to the Farmers’ State Alliance of North Carolina and portions of it subdivided in 1923 as the Oak Ridge Development and in 1924 as the Murray property, now collectively the west end of West Hillsborough.
With the construction of the Eno Cotton Mill and the Bellevue Manufacturing Company, “West Hillsborough became a thriving community” with its business district known as the West End.9 Capitalizing on the need for additional worker housing in close proximity to the growing mills, R. B. Mason’s land holdings west of Bellevue Mill were platted as the West Hill Property in 1913 (see Figure 6). The area is bounded by the Bellevue Manufacturing Company (and mill
8 North Carolina Division of Archives and History Survey and Planning Staff, “The Commandant’s House” National Register Nomination. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 1972, pg. 6. 9 Edge, pg. 20.
Figure 6. 1913 Plat of West Hill Property-Hillsboro NC
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village) on the east, Eno Street and the railroad tracks on the south, the properties on the west side of West Hill street on the west, and Mount Willing Road (later King Street) on the north. The Farmers Alliance property with the original Barracks building (then the Farm Life School Building) is visible on the left side of the plat and the “Old Homestead” near the center of the neighborhood was the Cadwallader Jones House, the site that would become the site of the West End Graded School. Several early houses were constructed, though most were built from the 1920s through the 1940s, aligning with the significant growth and expansion of the two mills. According to an oral history interview conducted by Kaye Crawford with resident Owen Allison, significant West Hillsborough families included the Rileys, Thompsons, Browns, Brooks, Waggoners, Gates, and Taylors—some of whom worked in the mill while others owned nearby businesses. Additionally, many of the Eno Mill houses, moved from the mill villages in 1956, were relocated in West Hillsborough. Because the mill housing was altered over time by its new owners and worker housing constructed throughout West Hillsborough generally resembled the mill housing, it is difficult to discern exactly which area houses were moved from Eno Mill and which were constructed on-site in West Hillsborough. Stores, restaurants, and other commercial businesses sprang up in West Hillsborough in order to serve the residents living there, many of whom did not own an automobile to drive downtown where the majority of commercial enterprises in Hillsborough were located at the time. The south end of Nash Street contained West Hillsborough’s chief commercial block of businesses, known as West End, conveniently placed next to the railroad depot (no longer extant). West Hillsborough resident Owen Allison remembers West End during the 1940s containing a drug store with a registered pharmacist, a general store owned and operated by the Cates brothers featuring a satellite post office, a dry cleaning business, a barber shop, a movie theatre, and a café. There also was a Coca-Cola plant located behind the Cates brothers’ store, in an area that was known as “monkey bottom.” Schools and churches followed the residential construction in West Hillsborough, some led by the mills themselves and others built by local residents. Early classes were held in Eno United Methodist Church in classrooms added to the rear of the church in 1920.10 The 1924 Sanborn Company maps show West End School, a two-story structure on the east side of Bellevue Avenue. Due in part to the rapid growth of the West Hillsborough neighborhood, a new, larger school was erected in the mid-1930s to replace West End School, which remained as the “Community Club Building” until at least 1943. West End Graded School was built in 1938 on the site of the Cadwallader Jones House (demolished between 1924 and 1936) in central West Hillsborough. The school contained first through sixth grades. It closed in 1969 and burned in the 1970s or 1980s. Central Elementary School was constructed in 1965, just north of West Hillsborough and west of the historic Central High School, a school for African Americans on the west side of Hillsborough. Conceived and constructed as a segregated school, the building, completed just a few years before the end of segregation, remained in use as an integrated school and may have been the reason that West End Graded School was closed. Enlarged in 1975 and again in the 1990s, Central Elementary School still serves the West Hillsborough area.
10 Edge, pg. 21.
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Several small frame churches were established in the first two decades of the twentieth century and were enlarged, remodeled, or reconstructed in the 1920s through the 1940s, aligning with a period of significant growth for the Eno and Bellevue mills. The Eno United Methodist Church was established in 1906 to serve employees of the Eno Cotton Mill. The church initially met in an upper story of one of the Eno Mill buildings until 1908 when Allen Ruffin donated land in West Hillsborough, facing the mill across the railroad tracks, for the present church to be constructed. The church expanded their building with a rear addition around 1920 and in 1938 moved it back from the road and remodeled it.11 The Hillsborough Pentecostal Holiness Church was established in 1909 north of West Hillsborough near the corner of North Bellevue and Brownville streets, but did not construct the brick building at its current location in the heart of West Hillsborough until 1923. West Hill Baptist Church was established in 1917, though like the other churches, its current building was constructed between 1920 and 1940.
Located nearly a mile from the Hillsborough’s commercial core on Churton Street, West Hillsborough’s residents were relatively isolated, despite the fact that the success of the mills contributed significantly to the local economy. West Hillsborough resident Charles Stanley remembers his social life as a child and teenager revolving around the Eno United Methodist Church and its immediate surroundings including the Riley Store (907 Eno Street), the railroad tracks, and the houses at the intersection of Allen Ruffin and Eno streets. It was not until 1948, when a bus route began running through the streets of West Hillsborough, that area residents without transportation were able to easily travel to downtown and further into the county.
With many mill employees having come from rural areas, life in the mill villages and West Hillsborough contained remnants of farm life including backyard gardens and row crops and livestock in the bottomlands near the Eno River that supplement families’ diets.12 Further, hunting, swimming, and fishing were common recreational activities of the village residents. Town services were not extended to West Hillsborough until the late 1940s, when reliable power, electricity, and water were extended from the town rather than provided by the mills. Prior to the late 1940s residents of the mill villages lacked refrigeration because power was cut off from mill houses during the day in order for the mills to operate efficiently.
By 1950, when West Hillsborough had a larger population (1,456 residents) than the incorporated town of Hillsborough, the mills and mill housing of West Hillsborough were becoming more physically and geographically integrated with Hillsborough. Ryan notes that the economy of Hillsborough depended “heavily on the textile mills of West Hillsborough, while its commercial center provided goods and services to local residents and the rural population of central and northern Orange County.”13 However, it would be 1976 before West Hillsborough was annexed into the town limits. The collapse of the textile industry in North Carolina eventually led to the closure of both mills. Hillsborough suffered significant economic downturns with the closure of the Eno Cotton Mill in 1984 and the Flynt Fabrics and Finishing Company (formerly the Bellevue Manufacturing Company) in 2000, yet the mill buildings remained a physical link between Hillsborough and West Hillsborough.14
11 Edge, pg. 20-21. 12 Norris, Carolyn E. “The Eno Mill Village.” Hillsborough Historical Society Journal, Vol. 2, No.1, pg. 55-60. 13 Ryan, pg. 73. 14 Ryan, pg. 81.
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African American Neighborhoods African Americans have always played an integral role in the growth and development of Hillsborough. In 1865, at the close of the Civil War, Orange County (including present-day Durham County) had approximately 6,000 freed slaves, making up about one-third of the county’s population.15 African Americans generally fled the rural areas of Orange County, heading instead for opportunities in Durham or Raleigh where communities of African Americans were settling and black-owned businesses employed many. Yet, smaller African American communities took root in Hillsborough and Chapel Hill, which had more employment opportunities than were available in rural areas. Thus, by 1930, while 87% of the total population of Orange County remained rural, only 32.5% of African Americans lived in rural areas.16 By the 1930s, most African Americans worked for white employers, though some operated their own businesses as blacksmiths, midwives, shoe shiners, builders, teachers, and farmers.17 Historian Peter Wood notes that most African Americans in Hillsborough during the early and mid-twentieth centuries worked for white employers, but some operated their own businesses such as William Austin Sr., who sold fish out of the back of his vehicle; Peggy Pherribo, a well-known midwife; and Clyde Whitted, a blacksmith and mechanic at Richmond Motor Company. While blacks often worked for white businesses, the businesses themselves remained segregated, serving whites only. Hillsborough’s residential areas were loosely segregated in the early twentieth century, though without distinct boundaries. While city directories and similar resources are not available for that period, it appears that African Americans settled throughout the town in low-lying areas or otherwise undesirable locations. Historian Peter Wood notes that Jobe and Lizzie Strayhorn resided near the intersection of Hillsborough Street and West Margaret Lane, indicating that African Americans may have lived amongst working-class whites in the southwest corner of the town, near the Margaret Lane Cemetery, and the Eno Cotton Mill and Bellevue Manufacturing companies in West Hillsborough.18 Further, lifelong Hillsborough resident, Beverly Webb, notes that in the early twentieth century, African American housing was far more integrated in working-class West Hillsborough than it was in Hillsborough proper.19 Small enclaves of African American residents also existed in the northwest part of town, as evidenced by the construction of the Hillsborough High School for Negros (later Central High School) on North Nash Street in 1938, and the Mount Bright Baptist Church on West Union Street in the early twentieth century. Finally, Wood notes residents on Latimer Street just north of West Hillsborough and on Oak Street, north of town, indicating that many African Americans also lived on the outskirts of town.
15 Mattson, Richard L. "History and Architecture of Orange County, North Carolina," Unpublished manuscript. Hillsborough, NC: Orange County Planning and Development Department, 1996, pg. 37. 16 Carter, Jody, and Todd Peck. "Historic Resources of Orange County." Unpublished manuscript. Hillsborough, NC: Orange County Planning and Preservation Department, 1993, pg. 42. 17 Wood, Peter H. “When the Roll is Called up Yonder”: Black History in Hillsborough, North Carolina. Hillsborough, N.C.: The Burwell School, 2005, pg. 26-33. 18 Wood, pg. 26. 19 Webb, Beverly. Oral history interview DVD, “Stores and Stories” Series Event sponsored by Historical Foundation of Hillsborough and Orange County, May 2010.
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By the mid-twentieth century, however, new African American housing developments were constructed that reflected the growth and expansion of the post-World War II era, though within the social framework of the segregated south. From the 1940s through 1960s, new neighborhoods were constructed north and northwest of town for Hillsborough’s African American residents including: Fairview (1943), Homemont (1945), Hillsborough Heights (1955), and Northern Heights (1957). Much of the area north of US 70 is now collectively known as Fairview, roughly defined as the area bordered by US 70, Rainey Street, and Faucette Mill Road.20 The southern portion of the 1943 Fairview development, including the 1959 Fairview extension, and Hillsborough Heights are located south of US 70 and west of North Nash Street (see Figure 7).
Figure 7. North Hillsborough Neighborhoods
20 Gertz, Emily, Natasha Jamison, Maureen Maurer, Amy Ng, and Thang Trinh. Fairview, Hillsborough, Orange County: An Action-Oriented Community Diagnosis: Findings and Next Steps of Action. Department of Health Behavior and Health Education, School of Public Health, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. May 7, 2002, pg. 5.
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Local builder and developer, James J. Freeland, likely played a role in the construction of individual houses if not entire portions of these African American neighborhoods, though his exact role is unclear. Multiple sources confirm that he built houses in the northern neighborhoods of Hillsborough for people who could not otherwise afford to purchase a home, selling the house without a down payment and taking out a second mortgage on the property. Oral histories conducted by Kaye Crawford in conjunction with the Historical Foundation of Hillsborough and Orange County confirm that Freeland built a number of homes in the Fairview neighborhood, and it is likely he also built homes in Hillsborough Heights, Northern Heights, and Homemont as well. Further, tax records, for properties along Daye Street and in the Fairview neighborhood confirm his ownership of the land and Freeland Street in the Hillsborough Heights development was named for him. US 70 provided a clear physical and symbolic boundary between the African American developments and Hillsborough proper. Residents described Fairview, located outside of the town limits, as a “mud hole” into the 1970s, with “inadequate septic systems, polluted wells, substandard housing, no paved streets, raw sewage in ditches and no streetlights.”21 A government grant in the 1970s allowed for the paving of streets and repairs to a number of houses that previously didn’t have indoor plumbing, but the area had no churches or schools and commercial businesses were limited to a few along US 70.22 Thus, residents relied heavily on the white-owned businesses downtown and south of Hillsborough. The neighborhoods were eventually incorporated into the town, with Hillsborough Heights annexed in 1977, just one year after West Hillsborough to its south, and “Northern Fairview” annexed in June 1988.23 While the annexations brought additional services to the areas, it also increased taxes, which angered some residents. Perhaps the largest physical change to the area, after the paving of streets, came after a tornado struck the Fairview neighborhood in 1992. Two people died and twenty-nine houses were destroyed, necessitating their reconstruction and leading to a renewed sense of community for the residents and attention from the Town of Hillsborough in the way of additional infrastructure improvements.24 More recent changes to Fairview, which retains a predominantly African American population, include the resident-led construction of a baseball field on the site of a former dump in 1999 and the creation of a baseball league to utilize the field.25 However, Fairview Park contained little more than this ball field and a set of swings until 2009 when construction began on improvements to the park including parking, playgrounds, picnic shelters, and basketball courts. The area was also the subject of a 2001-2002 study by students in the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill’s Department of Health Behavior and Health Education, in which they interviewed residents to identify issues within the neighborhood. In 2002, a police substation with other community services opened on the east side of Rainey Street.
21 Gertz, pg. 8. 22 Gertz, pg. 8. 23 Town of Hillsborough Planning Department. 24 Gertz, pg. 8. 25 Gertz, pg. 9.
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Travel, Tourism, & Recreation By the mid-twentieth century, Hillsborough had seen moderate post-World War II growth, though without the large-scale developments and increases in population seen in larger municipalities where employment and educational opportunities were more prevalent. The town had also embraced and celebrated its Colonial heritage, likely inspired in part by the success of Colonial Williamsburg, which established itself as a tourist destination beginning in the 1930s. By mid-century, Hillsborough was celebrating the bicentennial of both the formation of Orange County in 1752 and the creation of Hillsborough in 1754, celebrations that brought an increased focus to the historic architecture and heritage of Hillsborough, as well as established heritage tourism as an important part of the local economy.
At the same time, automobile travel and tourism swept the nation in the 1950s and 1960s, with families across the country taking to the roads on the newly constructed Interstate Highway system. Thus, while downtown Hillsborough was establishing itself as a Colonial-era destination, on the outskirts of town along the transportation routes, motels with Modern forms and details were being constructed to serve the twentieth-century motorist. The most distinctive of these is the Ja-Max Motor Lodge on Highway 70, northwest of town. Built in 1952 and named for owners James and Maxine Freeland, it was located on the main route between Greensboro and Durham. The wide, one-story building allowed for parking immediately in front of each room and the lamp-lined driveway further celebrated the automobile.
In 1966, Interstate 85, connecting Charlotte and Durham (via Greensboro), was completed about 1.25 miles south of downtown Hillsborough and a commercial corridor grew up along South Churton Street between downtown and I-85. James J. Freeland, recognizing the value of land on South Churton Street, and responding to the popularity of automobile travel, the interest in Hillsborough’s Colonial heritage, and a trend toward outdoor recreation in the 1950s and 1960s, established Daniel Boone Village in the 1960s and the adjacent Boone Square in the 1970s.
James J. Freeland Born in Durham in 1918, James J. Freeland moved to Hillsborough in 1934 and was involved in a variety of entrepreneurial endeavors. As a young man, he ran a barbecue restaurant called Sunny Side Inn as well as working part-time at a sawmill and co-operating a dry cleaning plant in West Hillsborough. James married Maxine Hayes in 1939 and in 1942 he built the first house for his family at the corner of Highway 70 and Faucette Mill Road, near what would later be the Fairview development.
Freeland was known throughout Hillsborough as a benevolent builder, building and selling homes, predominantly in north Hillsborough neighborhoods (including Fairview), for families who otherwise could not afford them. He would sell houses without requiring a down payment on them and instead have the family take out a second mortgage. By the 1950s, he had ventured beyond single home construction into real estate development, creating a small housing development along Daye Street, northwest of Fairview. He also developed two neighborhoods east of town: Mountain View on the north bank of the Eno River at Highway 70 Business and Colonial Hills on Lawrence Road near Highway 70A. Freeland built a second house for his family of six in the Mountain View development and later, in 1964, his third house (OR2885) on Highway 70, just northwest of Mountain View, where he lived until his death. In
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the 1960s he developed Holiday Park, northwest of town, a development that included houses (some of them moved from the Eno Mill village), as well a swimming pool and other amenities. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Freeland also constructed a number of motels, restaurants, and recreational facilities throughout Hillsborough and the surrounding area. One of his first projects was the construction of a bowling alley on Highway 70. His many hotel projects include the 1952 Ja-Max Motel on Highway 70, likely his first hotel. He later he built the Chesterfield, the Confederate Inn and the General Johnston Motel in Durham, the Arrowhead Motel in Mebane, the Tar Heel Motel in Chapel Hill, and the Dolly Madison Hotel in Roxboro. Freeland constructed the ice rinks at Daniel Boone Village as well as other rinks throughout the state. In addition to new construction, and perhaps reflective of the focus on historic architecture in Hillsborough at mid-century, Freeland was also active in restoring and moving historic buildings. At one time he owned the Colonial Inn (OR0032) on West King Street, which he remodeled and sold in the 1960s. He also remodeled the William Whitted House (OR0075) on East Queen Street in the 1970s. In 1978 he moved the Gatewood House (OR1289) from Yanceyville to Daniel Boone Village and around the same time moved Poplar Hill (OR0057) from Tuscarora Drive, across the Eno River, to Burnside Drive. Daniel Boone Village & Boone Square Freeland developed Daniel Boone Village, arguably his most well-known project, beginning in the 1960s. Freeland took advantage of the growing commercial area along South Churton Street between downtown Hillsborough and I-85, which was completed in 1966. Capitalizing on increased family travel by automobile, Daniel Boone Village became a destination with attractions for all ages, and Freeland, who included many of his personal interests in the commercial and recreational center, made a name for himself as the “Walt Disney of Hillsborough.”26 A 1966 plat map of the “Daniel Boone Inn and Restaurant Tract” shows an 11-acre parcel behind the Shell station at the northeast corner of South Churton and I-85. Extant in 1966 were the Daniel Boone Inn, a very long, one-room-deep, two-story, motel; a restaurant, later named the D. B. Cafeteria; a general store; and a pond, well, and filter bed. By 1972, the development had grown significantly with a pool and annex added to the Daniel Boone Inn, a “Pioneer Drive-Inn” at the rear of the shell station, an addition to the country store, an office building for the Freeland family, and the “Golden Bread Steakhouse” east of the motel. The elements of the amusement park had also been constructed by 1972 including a roller rink, camping area, fabric barn, antique auto and wax museum, ice rink, outdoor snack/picnic area, amusement park, fort, amphitheater, ski lift, and a “dual refrigerated toboggan slide” (see Figure 8). The Daniel Boone Railroad, which encircled much of the development, featured “costumed cowboys and Indians jumped inside to stage train robberies and gun fights.”27 Two log cabins on the 1972 plat illustrate Freeland’s interest in relocating existing historic structures, a practice that continued throughout the development of Daniel Boone Village and included the relocation of the Gatewood House to the development in 1978. The historic
26 Tucker, John H. “Living in the Boonies.” Indy Week. [accessed via www.indyweek.com, 1 June 2017] 27 Tucker.
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structures, together with rows of commercial buildings with false parapets and several with faux-log exteriors, ultimately led to a development that resembled an old western village. The western theme was further emphasized by the statue of frontiersman Daniel Boone and the Wild West shows held on site in the early years.
Figure 8. 1972 Plat of Daniel Boone Recreation Park
Daniel Boone Village developed over time with additional restaurants and shops constructed as the area transitioned from an amusement park to an antique-themed shopping destination. In addition to the D.B. Cafeteria, restaurants included Riverside Restaurant, Priscilla’s English Tea Room, and the Occoneechee Steakhouse, located on the east side of South Churton Street. A second ten-room motel was constructed adjacent to the Occoneechee Steakhouse. Daniel Boone Village also provided a meeting and event space for the community of Hillsborough called the Big Barn Convention Center. The event space was on the main level and commercial tenants occupied the lower level where spaces for small start-up businesses leased at an affordable rate.
By the late 1970s, the amusement park had closed. The campground, ice rink, and amphitheater survived, albeit unused and overgrown today, but the other amusement park elements were removed by the end of the 1970s and the north end of the complex was redeveloped as Boone Square. The later commercial buildings in Boone Square are less imaginative, retaining the false-parapets found on the buildings in Daniel Boone Village, but little else. By 1983, a modern big-box grocery store had been constructed on the site of the amusement park, ski lift, and toboggan slide.
After Freeland died in 1989, his children maintained Daniel Boone Village and Boone Square, though many of the buildings are now vacant. The establishment of the Hillsborough Historic
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District in the early 1970s and the momentum of the historic preservation movement in the 1970s and 1980s aligned with a period of growth for Hillsborough, and by the 1980s, antique shops, restaurants, and other retail ventures were returning to downtown. With the completion of I-40 in 1988, about 1.5 miles south of Daniel Boone Village, commercial and residential development south of I-85 has increased significantly. As a result, the approximately 76 acres of Daniel Boone Village and Boone Square, annexed into Hillsborough in 1998, are ripe for redevelopment.
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ARCHITECTURAL CONTEXT
Residential Development Residential development outside of downtown Hillsborough followed national trends for subdivision design as well as responding to the local topography, economy, and social structure of Hillsborough in the early and mid-twentieth century.
The Bellevue Manufacturing Company constructed its mill village just north of the mill starting in 1910 (see Figure 5). Constructed with the intention of incorporating as many houses as possible on the relatively small parcel of land, the houses are closely spaced and arranged along a loop road that is accessed by both West King and South Nash streets. Streets are narrow and there are no sidewalks, as early residents had no need for, or ability to purchase, automobiles and thus would have safely walked to the mill along the streets. The irregularly sized lots are a result of the neighborhood having been platted in 1958, well after the construction of the buildings, and prompted by the mill’s plans to sell the houses into private ownership.
West Hillsborough was laid out in 1913 with roughly equal-sized parcels arranged along a regular street grid that followed the north-south grid of Hillsborough proper (see Figure 6), despite the fact that the two areas were separated by the Bellevue Manufacturing Company and mill village and the streets didn’t connect. The west end of the neighborhood beyond West Hill Avenue was platted later, in the 1930s, with streets and lot sizes more varied. The area generally grew from south to north with the earliest development occurring near the mills, though early and mid-twentieth-century house forms are intermixed throughout the area, indicating that early houses may have been set on larger lots that were later subdivided. Like the Bellevue Mill Village, streets in West Hillsborough are narrow and there are no sidewalks, indicating that residents simply walked along the streets.
The mid-twentieth-century developments north and west of town (see Figure 7), constructed predominantly after the close of World War II, follow national trends in mid-century subdivision, designed with gently curving streets and small lots with Minimal Traditional or Ranch-style houses. The earliest of these was Fairview (OR2997), platted in 1943 (see Figure 9). It contains irregularly shaped lots arranged along roads that predate the development. Lots, laid out at twenty-five-foot intervals and meant to be combined, have been joined and split overtime, Figure 9. 1943 Plat of Fairview
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further contributing to the irregularity of the neighborhood. With gentle curves, evenly spaced lots and houses, and limited access to the major thoroughfares, Homemont (see Figure 10) and Northern Heights (see Figure 11) are more typical post-WWII developments than Fairview. Unlike most post-war developments, but not atypical for African American neighborhoods of the period, Homemont and Northern Heights, built adjacent to trash dump, did not have paved streets or other municipal amenities until the 1970s. Mature trees remain at the perimeter of the developments and in the center of each block, with houses located close to the street and with little shading or landscaping in the front yards. Residential Architecture The residential architecture of the study area parallels that of Hillsborough as a whole with construction in the first two decades of the twentieth century dominated by vernacular house types: simple forms with minimal Queen Anne-style details. The Craftsman style was most popular in the 1920s and 1930s, after which the Minimal Traditional style took hold in the 1940s and the 1950s ushered in the era of the Ranch house. While the overall trends mirrored those of Hillsborough and the country as a whole, the residential architecture of working-class West Hillsborough, the African American areas north and northwest of town, and the rural areas outside of the early-twentieth-century town limits were decidedly less decorative than the high-style examples constructed within the town limits and in middle- to upper-class neighborhoods around that state. The earliest examples of residential architecture in the study area are those in West Hillsborough, dating from the 1910s, just after the area was platted. The most decorative of these is the c. 1910 Bellevue Manufacturing Company’s Superintendent’s House (see Figure 12), a two-story, gable-roofed house with impressive corbelled brick chimneys, a canted bay on the north elevation, and double-leaf arched one-light-over-one-panel door centered on the façade and sheltered by a hip-roofed wrap-around porch on chamfered wood posts. While the I-house form is typical for both rural and urban construction during this period, the detailing stands in stark contrast to the adjacent mill worker housing. Further, two-story housing is relatively rare
Figure 11. 1953 Plat of Hillsborough Heights (OR2993)
Figure 10. 1945 Plat of Homemont (OR2995)
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in West Hillsborough, where only a handful of examples were constructed including the two-story, gable-and-wing house at 402 Allen Ruffin Avenue (OR3020), which has a decorative gable on the façade, two-over-two windows, and a replacement porch on Craftsman-style post-on-pier supports. Two-story housing was more common in the middle- and upper-income areas of Hillsborough proper and the immediate vicinity, as exemplified by the c. 1910 C. Hopkins House (OR3006) with a foursquare form and Craftsman-style details and a 1920s farm complex southeast of town (see Figure 13) that features a two-story house with brick exterior, slate roof, and wrap-around porch.
One-story houses were far more common than two-story examples in West Hillsborough and included those with single-pile, double-pile, and gable-and-wing forms, most with simple turned or square porch posts. Among the best preserved of these is the c. 1918 Ernest P. Cox House (see Figure 14), with a hip-roofed, double-pile form and projecting gabled wings, two-over-two windows, and a wrap-around porch supported by square columns. The 1920s James Faucette House (OR3018) exemplifies the triple-A-roofed single-pile form common throughout West Hillsborough, with a large rear wing, two-over-two windows, and brick porch posts. The c. 1921 triple-A-roofed house at 216 South Bellevue (OR3027) is a typical triple-A-roofed, single-pile form with wide rear ell, but is unusual due to its brick veneer, which appears to be original, and Craftsman-style porch posts. These basic house types continued to be constructed for worker housing into the 1930s and 1940s, evidence of the slow speed with which working-class residents adopted new styles and forms for their houses.
The prevalence of simple vernacular houses
throughout the area may be in part due to the construction of mill housing by the Eno Cotton Mill and Bellevue Manufacturing Company. The Bellevue mill village includes three basic house types constructed between 1910 and 1924. Three one-and-a-half-story, one-room-deep, side-gabled houses at the northeast corner of the neighborhood (see Figure 15), including two facing South Nash Street, were constructed with two front entrances as duplexes or single-family residences in which the multiple entrances allowed laborers working different shifts to come and go without disrupting one another. Each has a full-width, shed-roofed rear ell and a
Figure 12. Bellevue Manufacturing Company’s Superintendent’s House (OR3030)
Figure 13. Farmhouse (OR3038)
Figure 14. Ernest P. Cox House (OR3026)
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central brick chimney. The most common house type is one story and two rooms deep with a three-bay façade and front-gable roof (see Figure 16). These were constructed in the main portion of the village as well as in a small section of the village north of West King Street. The third and smallest house type is a one-story, one-room-deep, side-gabled house with rear ell. Containing only three rooms when initially constructed, most have been enlarged over time. The simple forms of the Bellevue mill housing were all originally constructed with plain weatherboards, double-hung windows, and shed-roofed porches, typical of mill housing throughout the Piedmont. The Craftsman style became popular nationwide in the 1920s and is characterized by windows with vertical-light upper sashes and porches with tapered wood posts on brick piers. Elements of the Craftsman style, especially the porch posts, were often applied to vernacular forms, though several examples of bungalow-form Craftsman-style housing also exist in West Hillsborough. The one-story bungalow is the most common form, as exemplified by the c. 1921 Paul Riley House (OR3008) with its side-gabled form, shed-roofed dormer with four-light window, and tapered porch posts on brick piers, though one-and-a-half-story examples also exist. Among these is the c. 1931 Weldon Riley House (see Figure 17), perhaps the best expression of the style in West Hillsborough with a front-gabled dormer with grouped windows and knee brackets, and a wide, engaged shed-roofed porch supported by posts on piers. The Period Cottage, constructed throughout North Carolina’s middle-class neighborhoods in the 1930s and 1940s, contains compact forms, generally one or one-and-a-half stories, but with decorative features typically drawn from the Colonial Revival and Tudor Revival styles including grouped windows, brick arches, and prominent chimneys. Few examples of this style were built in Hillsborough, but among those that exist in the study area is the c. 1940 Eno United Methodist Church Parsonage (see Figure 18) with an asymmetrical, front-gabled entrance bay, a decorative brick watertable, and brick arches over the windows, elements found in Tudor Revival-style homes, and gabled dormers typical of the Colonial Revival style. The c. 1951 C. L. and Myrtle Gattis House (OR2999) has a more prominent stepped chimney on the façade, but lacks the decorative brickwork of the parsonage.
Figure 16. Front-gabled Bellevue Mill House (OR3033)
Figure 17. Weldon Riley House (OR3012)
Figure 15. One-and-a-half story Bellevue Mill House (OR3032)
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A rare, but distinctive style of the 1930s and 1940s was the Rustic Revival style, which emerged in part as a response to the popularity of Depression-era construction by New Deal programs of wood and stone buildings in parks throughout the country. Residential Rustic Revival designs employed stone or log veneers, exposed rafter tails, and unpainted or brown painted wood detailing, all meant to incorporate the house into its natural surroundings, despite the fact that many were constructed within towns. The c. 1931 House (see Figure 19), the only Rustic Revival-style building in the study area, displays its log veneer and stone foundation and chimneys in stark contrast to the bungalows and Ranch houses that line the rest of this portion of Revere Road. It is also worthy of note that the stone chimneys are purely decorative and not integrated into the structure of the building or any heat source. In the post-World War II era, small, minimally detailed houses were built throughout the country in response to the housing shortage created by fifteen years of depression and war. These Minimal Traditional-style houses are characterized by their one-story, side-gabled form (though front-gabled versions also exist), shallow or flush eaves, and a small covered entry or stoop in lieu of a front porch. In Hillsborough, the Minimal Traditional style was adopted for worker housing in West Hillsborough, middle- and working-class housing in Hillsborough proper, and the African American developments built north and northwest of town in the 1940s and 1950s. Homemont (see Figure 20) in particular includes primarily Minimal Traditional-style housing. Built primarily in the 1950s and 1960s, some of the homes appear to have standardized plans, indicating that they were either built for speculative sale or built as rental properties. While mostly of frame construction with single or paired windows on the façade, several of the houses feature grouped or picture windows more common in later Ranch houses. A number of them were constructed with exposed concrete-block construction, the variations in detailing pointing to the work of multiple builders.
Figure 20. Minimal Traditional-style houses in Homemont (OR2995)
Figure 19. House (OR3004)
Figure 18. Eno United Methodist Church Parsonage (OR3011)
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Minimal Traditional-style housing continued to be built in Hillsborough’s working-class and African American neighborhoods throughout the 1950s. In some cases, rental housing utilized the compact form of Minimal Traditional housing with more modern detailing such as deep eaves, concrete-block construction, and metal-framed windows more common on later Ranch houses. Examples include the houses in Freeland (OR2994) in the northwest end of town as well as the Payne Rental Houses (see Figure 21) on South Nash Street, which include both single-family residences and duplexes. By the 1950s, the Ranch house had become the most common form for new construction in the country. Characterized by low-pitched roofs, brick veneers, picture windows, and engaged garages or carports, the wide form of the Ranch house was especially suited to suburban lots. The c. 1959 J. H. and Pauline McAdams House (see Figure 22) exemplifies the style with a low-pitched hipped roof, grouped awning windows, and an engaged carport supported by metal posts on a brick knee wall. The south end of the Fairview Neighborhood (the Fairview Extension) was platted in the same year, and here three variations on a single Ranch house were constructed (see Figure 23). Each likely features the same interior arrangement as only the exterior materials vary. The consistency of these houses indicate that they were likely built speculatively. Commercial Architecture Commercial architecture in West Hillsborough followed general trends of small-scale, early-twentieth-century commercial building with one-story, brick storefronts creating a continuous façade along the sidewalk. The Bellevue Commercial Block (see Figure 24), constructed between 1910 and 1924, exemplifies this trend with a seven-storefront block, each with brick corbelling. It included five buildings separated by stepped brick parapets. The block, which served as the commercial center of West Hillsborough and the Bellevue Mill Village, housed a variety of businesses over the years including a drug store, general store, satellite post office, dry cleaning business, barber shop, movie theatre, and café. Further west and constructed later, though in the same style, is the c. 1942 Paul Riley Store (OR3009), a single brick building with stepped parapet, inset sign panel on the façade, and original inset entrance.
Figure 21. Payne Rental Houses (OR3029)
Figure 23. Ranch House in the Fairview Subdivision (OR2997)
Figure 22. J. H. and Pauline McAdams House (OR3002)
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A response to the automobile era, 1950s commercial architecture on the outskirts of town was more modern than commercial development in downtown Hillsborough, which tended to follow traditional precedents with Colonial detailing. The c. 1952 Cole’s Store (OR3014) on North West Hill Avenue illustrates the earlier trend of constructing a small rural store and gas station on the same site as the owner’s residence. The construction of the store with concrete-block exterior and metal-framed fixed windows is typical of 1940s and 1950s rural stores. Most commercial architecture
outside of downtown and West Hillsborough tended to be arranged along major thoroughfares, especially Highway 70 and South Churton Street. The c. 1950 Cole Motor Company (see Figure 25) on Highway 70 is distinctly modern in its detailing with glass block windows and rounded brick corners giving it a streamlined appearance. Hillsborough’s mid-twentieth-century motels are among the best expressions of Modernism in the town. The 1952 Ja-Max Motor Lodge (see Figure 26) echoes the characteristics and architectural details of Ranch houses of the 1950s. It has a low-pitched hipped roof that contributes to the horizontality of the building, a shallow inset porch, stone veneer on the lower portion of the facade, and two-over-two horizontal-pane wood-sash windows. Its location, set back from Highway 70 with a grassy expanse in front of the building, further emphasizes the wide, low form of the building. In contrast, the two-story Daniel Boone Inn, part of the Daniel Boone Village (see Figure 27), has vertical brick between the bays, lending verticality to the building while the low-pitched roofline and second-floor railing emphasize the width of the building. The inn’s office features two-story windows and a porte-cochere sheltered by a shallow, side-gabled roof with deep eaves and exposed purlins and supported by posts resting on a brick planter. The remainder of the Daniel Boone Village and Boone Square (OR3041), constructed in the 1960s and 1970s respectively, contains mostly traditional forms and replicas of historic
Figure 24. Bellevue Commercial Block (OR3036)
Figure 27. Daniel Boone Inn, Daniel Boone Village (OR3040)
Figure 25. Cole Motor Company (OR3000)
Figure 26. Ja-Max Motor Lodge (OR3001)
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buildings. The DB Cafeteria building, just west of the Daniel Boone Inn, however, echoes the shallow gable, deep eaves, and exposed purlins found on the Daniel Boone Inn as well as a projecting gabled canopy over the entrance. Religious and Institutional Architecture Churches and schools were located among the houses in West Hillsborough, which operated independently from Hillsborough throughout the early twentieth century. These buildings, which were constructed to serve primarily mill workers and other working-class families, were less decorative than their earlier, more prominent counterparts in downtown Hillsborough. Several small frame churches were established in the first two decades of the twentieth century and enlarged, remodeled, or reconstructed in the 1920s through the 1940s, aligning with a period of significant growth for the Eno and Bellevue mills. The earliest of these is the c. 1908 Eno United Methodist Church (see Figure 28), a simple, front-gabled frame structure built by the Eno Cotton Mill to serve its employees. The church has minimal Gothic Revival-style detailing including pointed-arch stained-glass windows, transom, and vent, and a simple belfry and short steeple near the front of the building. It was enlarged with a side-gabled rear addition, resulting in the T-shaped plan, about 1920. The West Hill Baptist Church (OR3022) was constructed ca. 1920 with an educational wing and fellowship hall likely added in the 1940s or 1950s. The front-gabled building is similar to Eno United Methodist Church in its form and Gothic Revival-style details though with a brick veneer and brick buttresses between the windows. The two-story rear wing has two-over-two horizontal-pane wood-sash windows and a flat awning over the entrance, both elements typical of 1950s construction. Established in 1909, the Hillsborough Pentecostal Holiness Church (see Figure 29) constructed a brick church in the heart of West Hillsborough in 1948 after a fire destroyed the original frame church. The T-plan building follows the form and scale of the Eno United Methodist Church and the West Hill Baptist Church, though with a projecting front-gabled entrance bay, shallow gable returns, and rounded-arched windows with cast concrete keystones and springers that are more typical of Colonial Revival-style architecture.
Figure 28. Eno United Methodist Church (OR3010)
Figure 29. Hillsborough Pentecostal Holiness Church (OR3015)
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School children in West Hillsborough initially met in classrooms in the frame addition at the rear of Eno United Methodist Church. 28 By 1924, the two-story frame West End School was constructed on Bellevue Avenue. That school was replaced in 1938 by the larger, one-story, Colonial Revival-style West End Graded School (OR3021). The brick building, typical of 1920s and 1930s school construction, had brick quoins, double-hung multi-light windows, and arched dormer vents. The main section of the school was demolished in the 1970s or 1980s and only the rear wings remain with wide fascia, partial gable returns, and sawn consoles supporting a shed roof over the paired six-light-over-two-panel doors. The most impressive feature of the West End Graded School is its site. Located at the highest point in West Hillsborough, the property is encircled with a low stone wall and accessed by stone steps, typical of Depression-era construction. In contrast, the 1965 Central Elementary School (see Figure 30) was constructed on relatively low-lying land north of West Hillsborough, likely because it was initially intended for African American students. The site is largely paved in front of the school, with trees and open space relegated to the rear where a steep ravine cuts through the property. The building itself is typical of 1960s school construction in Hillsborough, designed by architect Archie Royal Davis, who also designed the 1958 two-story classroom building and 1958 cafeteria for the nearby Central High School. The low, one-story, flat-roofed building has an exposed concrete structure, brick veneer, and grouped metal-framed windows with blond brick aprons. The school was enlarged in 1975 with a low, gable-roofed classroom building and flat-roofed cafeteria, each of which also has an exposed concrete structure but is less graceful in its design, with narrower windows, deep overhangs, and wide cornice covered with concrete panels. A 1990s addition has largely obscured the façade of the 1965 school. Cemeteries The survey included two cemeteries, both located just north of the original town limits. The (New) Town Cemetery (see Figure 31) occupies land purchased in 1871, though graves date to the 1860s. The six-acre site has more than 3,000 graves arranged in neat rows with a brick wall along the south side of the cemetery on East Corbin Street. Paved pathways and mature oak and cedar trees create a park-like setting as was typical of late nineteenth-century cemeteries. Markers are all manufactured stones and include a number of obelisks and chest tombs as well as military footstones for both Confederate and Union soldiers. 28 Edge, pg. 21.
Figure 31. (New) Town Cemetery (OR3031)
Figure 30. Central Elementary School (OR3037)
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In contrast, Maplewood Cemetery (see Figure 32) to the west appears to have been established for African Americans around the turn of the twentieth century, though its history is unclear and the site likely also contains unmarked nineteenth-century graves. It is located on a slight hill that has been experiencing erosion. The land is rocky with only patches of grass and mature, though un-pruned, trees. Many graves are marked only with fieldstones or with hand-carved stone markers and many more are unmarked. Several are grouped into what appear to be family plots with much open space between the groups of stones. The overall appearance of the cemetery is one of disrepair.
Hillsborough’s architecture outside of the National Register Historic District is typical of early and mid-twentieth-century architectural trends throughout the region and country. An intact mill village with commercial block and a large collection of middle- and working-class housing throughout West Hillsborough represents the growing working class in early twentieth-century Hillsborough while mid-twentieth century African American developments north and west of town follow nationwide trends in residential development and architectural style. Daniel Boone Village is unique as a commercial and recreational center developed as a direct response to the automobile era and increased travel in the 1950s and 1960s. Altogether, the architecture of the study area reflects the changing economy and demographics of Hillsborough in the early to mid-twentieth century.
Figure 32. Maplewood Cemetery (OR3005)
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RECOMMENDATIONS
National Register Study List The following resources are proposed for placement on the North Carolina National Register Study List as potentially eligible for listing on the National Register of Historic Places:
OR3007 – Hillsborough Military Academy Dining Hall (and adjacent site) OR3001 – Ja-Max Motor Lodge
A description of each property and its significance under the National Register Criteria for Evaluation is located in Appendix B.
Additional Research A number of properties have histories that are complicated or unclear, possess unusual architectural forms or details, or are likely to produce archaeological information, and thus require further study. These properties include:
OR3005 - Maplewood Cemetery The history of Maplewood Cemetery is unclear. While it appears that there may have been a Faucette Family cemetery on the site previously, current ownership of the Maplewood Cemetery is not known and consequently, it is not possible to search the chain of title. The North Carolina Cemetery Census indicates that there are 207 graves, though many are unmarked. Examination of the cemetery using ground-penetrating radar should determine both the full boundary of the cemetery and the number of graves. Many of the names in Maplewood Cemetery are those of prominent Hillsborough families (though sometimes with different spellings), indicating that enslaved African Americans may have taken their owners’ names. Genealogical research should be conducted to determine potential family histories.
OR3047 – Daniel Boone Inn Located on the south end of the Daniel Boone development, the Daniel Boone Inn is one of the earliest structures in the development, appearing on 1972 plat of the Daniel Boone Recreation Park. The two-story motel has a mixture of modern and Colonial detailing with the main, side-gabled wing featuring a low-sloped roof with engaged porch/walkway and metal slider windows. The office, located at the north end of the building, has deep overhangs with large purlins and the shed roof extends beyond the building to the west to create a porte-cochere into which motorists could pull to check into the motel without getting out of their car. The porte-cochere is supported by metal poles on a brick planter. An office service wing on the north end may be an earlier house that was moved to the site. A gable and hip-roofed rear wing at the northeast has more Colonial detailing, including eight-over-eight double-hung windows with wood spandrels and aprons. The change in style indicates that it was built at a different time, though it’s unclear which wing was constructed first. The building may be eligible for listing on the National Register, but more information is needed about the integrity of the interior and the dates of the exterior alterations.
OR3050 – DB Cafeteria Located near the south end of the Daniel Boone development, the DB Cafeteria is one of the earliest structures in the development, appearing on 1972 plat of the Daniel Boone Recreation
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Park. The building features modern detailing including a low-pitched front-gabled roof with deep overhangs supported by large diagonal brackets, but also includes multi-light Colonial Revival-style storefront windows. There are multiple additions on the side and rear elevation and the signage on the building has been altered, but the exterior is otherwise intact. The building may be eligible for listing on the National Register, but more information is needed about the integrity of the interior and the dates of the exterior alterations.
The North Hillsborough neighborhoods of Fairview, Hillsborough Heights, Northern Heights, and Homemont have few recorded resources documenting their history. Constructed predominantly as African American resources, the areas are not included in previously written histories of Hillsborough and Orange County. A 2002 study by students at the University of North Carolina’s School of Public Health included a general history of and context for the neighborhoods in the course of studying social problems in the area. Oral histories taken from long-time residents would help to form a more complete picture of the area’s development and history.
Finally, James J. Freeland’s Mountain View and Colonial Hills developments warrant additional research. Despite their location just outside of the town boundary (and thus outside of the study area of this project) they are part of “greater” Hillsborough. They appear to be relatively intact neighborhoods of Minimal Traditional and Ranch housing from the 1950s and 1960s, arranged as isolated developments with gently curved streets accessed by a major thoroughfare. These neighborhoods are important as examples of Freeland’s residential developments and may hold architectural significance.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
Carter, Jody, and Todd Peck. "Historic Resources of Orange County." Unpublished manuscript. Hillsborough, NC: Orange County Planning and Preservation Department, 1993.
Edge, Cathleen and Carrie Ehrfurth. “Eno Cotton Mill” National Register Nomination. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 2011.
Freeland, Maxine and Joan Harper. James J. Freeland: A Gentle Giant, 1999. [accessed via Orange County Public Library]
Gertz, Emily, Natasha Jamison, Maureen Maurer, Amy Ng, and Thang Trinh. Fairview, Hillsborough, Orange County: An Action-Oriented Community Diagnosis: Findings and Next Steps of Action. Department of Health Behavior and Health Education, School of Public Health, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. May 7, 2002.
Lamprakos, Michele and Edwin Belk, “Bellevue Manufacturing Company” National Register Nomination. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 2003.
Lefler, Hugh and Wager, Paul, eds. Orange County 1752-1952. Chapel Hill: Orange Printshop, 1953.
Lloyd, Allen A. and Pauline O. Lloyd. History of the Churches of Hillsborough, N.C. ca. 1766-1962, 1962. [accessed via Orange County Public Library]
Lloyd, Allen Alexander and Pauline O. Lloyd. History of The Town of Hillsborough, 1754-1982, 1982. [accessed via Orange County Public Library]
Lloyd, Bill. Interviewed by Heather Slane and Megan Privett, 20 April 2017.
Mattson, Richard L. "History and Architecture of Orange County, North Carolina," Unpublished manuscript. Hillsborough, NC: Orange County Planning and Development Department, 1996.
North Carolina Division of Archives and History Survey and Planning Staff, “The Commandant’s House” National Register Nomination. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 1972.
Norris, Carolyn E. “The Eno Mill Village.” Hillsborough Historical Society Journal, Vol. 2, No.1.
Orange County Register of Deeds, Deeds of Sale and Plat Maps for the town of Hillsborough, 1920s-1960s.
“Owen Allison’s Memories of Hillsboro and West Hillsboro” DVD, “Stores and Stories” Series, sponsored by Historical Foundation of Hillsborough and Orange County, 2011. [accessed via Orange County Historical Museum, 2017]
Ryan, Elizabeth Shreve. Orange County Trio: Hillsborough, Chapel Hill, and Carrboro, North Carolina Histories and Tour Guides. Chapel Hill: Chapel Hill Press, Inc., 2004.
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Slane, Heather. “Hillsborough Historic District” National Register Additional Documentation. Raleigh: North Carolina Historic Preservation Office, 2013.
“The Great Adventures of James John and Maxine Hayes Freeland” DVD, [accessed via Orange County Historical Museum, 2017].
Town of Hillsborough Planning Department. Annexation Data.
Tucker, John H. “Living in the Boonies.” Indy Week. [accessed via www.indyweek.com, 1 June 2017]
Webb, Beverly. Oral history interview DVD, “Stores and Stories” Series Event sponsored by Historical Foundation of Hillsborough and Orange County, May 2010. [accessed via Orange County Historical Museum, 2017]
Wood, Peter H. “When the Roll is Called Up Yonder”: Black History in Hillsborough, North Carolina. Hillsborough: Alliance for Historic Hillsborough, 2005.
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APPENDIX A LIST OF SURVEYED PROPERTIES
SSN# Property Name Address Date OR1273* (former) Bellevue Mill Village Houses S Nash, Holt & Knight Sts
OR1274* Bellevue Manufacturing Co. Mill, Houses, and Commercial District 400 blk S. Nash at Eno Street 1909
OR1289* Gatewood House Churton St. OR2993 Northern Heights Rainey, Harper, Homemont, Riddle and Dixie 1957 OR2994 Freeland Daye Street OR2995 Homemont Torain and Lawndale streets 1945 OR2996 Hillsborough Heights Terrell, Central, Forrest, Coley and Freeland 1953
OR2997 Fairview Faucette Mill, US 70, Short, East, Revere, Nash, Terrell, Alma, and Daphine 1943
OR2998 House 536 Cornelius 1946 OR2999 C. L. & Myrtle Gattis House 210 Cornelius St. 1951 OR3000 Cole Motor Company 387 Cornelius St. 1950 OR3001 Ja-Max Motor Lodge 740 Cornelius St. 1952 OR3002 J. H. & Pauline McAdams House 418 Revere Rd. 1958 OR3003 W. John Clayton House 425 Revere Rd. 1942 OR3004 House 506 Revere Rd. 1931
OR3005 Maplewood Cemetery 210 Corbin 1907- present
OR3006 C. Hopkins House 118 Corbin St. 1926 OR3007 Hillsborough Military Academy Dining Hall 202 Barracks St. 1859 OR3008 Paul Riley House 240 Riley Ave. 1921 OR3009 Paul Riley Store 907 Eno St. 1942 OR3010 Eno United Methodist Church 903 Eno St. 1908 OR3011 Eno United Methodist Church Parsonage 901 Eno St. 1944 OR3012 Weldon Riley House 811 Eno St. 1931 OR3013 House 204 Murray St. 1906 OR3014 Cole's Store 231 Hill Ave. 1952 OR3015 Hillsborough Pentecostal Holiness Church 117 W. Hill Ave. 1948 OR3016 House 200 W. Hill Ave. 1941 OR3017 House 404 W. Hill Ave. 1923 OR3018 James Faucette House Allen Ruffin Ave. 1906 OR3019 C. B. & Myrtle Ray Stanley House 406 Allen Ruffin Ave. 1931 OR3020 House 402 Allen Ruffin Ave. 1910 OR3021 West End Graded School 111 Jones St. 1934 OR3022 West Hill Baptist Church 209 Spring St. 1920 OR3023 House 210 Collins Ave. 1921 OR3024 Crawford House 110 Collins Ave. 1912 OR3025 Waddell Duplex 107 Bellevue St. 1946
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SSN# Property Name Address Date OR3026 Ernest P. Cox House 112 Bellevue St. 1918 OR3027 House 216 Bellevue St. 1921 OR3028 William Edward McPherson House 303 Nash St. 1947 OR3029 Payne Rental Houses 205, 207-209 Nash St. 1950-1960 OR3030 Bellevue Cotton Mill Superintendent's House 200 Nash St. 1910
OR3031 (New) Town Cemetery 200 Corbin St. 1860- present
OR3032 Bellevue Mill House 208 Webb St. 1920 OR3033 Bellevue Mill House 209 Webb St. 1920 OR3034 Bellevue Mill House 302 Knight St. 1910 OR3035 Bellevue Mill House 105 Holt St. 1941 OR3036 Bellevue Commercial Block 230-250 Nash St. 1920 OR3037 Central Elementary School 154 Hayes St. 1965 OR3038 Farmhouse 1001 Corporate Dr. 1922
OR3039 Occoneechee Steakhouse and motel west side S. Churton St., south of Old Dogwood 1965
OR3040 Daniel Boone Village east side of S. Churton St., north of I-85 1960s OR3041 Boone Square east side of S. Churton St., north of I-85 1970s OR3042 Big Barn Daniel Boone Village 1960s OR3047 Daniel Boone Inn Daniel Boone Village 1960s OR3048 Campground Daniel Boone Village 1970s OR3049 Ampitheater Daniel Boone Village 1970s OR3050 DB Cafeteria Daniel Boone Village 1970s OR3051 Jack Freeland House Daniel Boone Village Unknown OR3052 Ice Rink Daniel Boone Village 1960s OR3053 Log Building Daniel Boone Village 1800s OR3054 Log House Daniel Boone Village 1800s
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APPENDIX B STUDY LIST INFORMATION AND JUSTIFICATION
WA3007 – Hillsborough Military Academy Dining Hall (and adjacent site) 202 Barracks Street The Hillsborough Military Academy Dining Hall and adjacent site are significant under Criterion A for Military History, Criterion C for Architecture, and Criterion D for their archaeological potential and should be considered for listing in the National Register as an expansion of the Commandants House National Register nomination (NR1972), which was listed for significance in the areas of Agriculture, Architecture, Education, Military History, and Politics. That nomination notes a surviving structure behind the former barracks (destroyed in 1938) that may be the dining hall: “To the rear was a long, narrow one-story frame structure that served a variety of purposes. A small frame structure on the adjoining property is thought to have been part of that building.” However, neither the extant building, nor the open land, was included within the nominated tract of the Commandants House. Constructed as part of the Hillsborough Military Academy, the Dining Hall is situated immediately adjacent to Barracks Road west of the Commandants House. Adapted for use as a church in 1965, the one-story, frame building has board-and-batten sheathing and large six-over-six wood-sash windows. Paired four-panel doors are located on the north elevation and the south elevation features decorative, sawn rafter tails and Greek Revival-style window surrounds, a variation that may be the result of the building being constructed as the wing of a larger building and split off later. The interior retains wood floors, plaster walls, and six-panel doors. The Hillsborough Military Academy historically contained an imposing three-story brick barracks, dismantled in 1938, though portions of the brick foundation remain in an overgrown areas just south of the dining hall. The complex also included a 190-foot-long wood building that housed an infirmary, surgeons’ office, mess hall, and kitchens, as well as several smaller outbuildings, though none of these remain. Landscape features including tree lines and rows of plantings (most notably a grass path lined with rows of daffodils leading to the west entrance of the Dining Hall), are indications of the original site configuration of the academy. The Office of State Archaeology confirmed that the site is also likely to contain archaeological evidence of the mid-nineteenth century school and has recommended that a reconnaissance survey of the property be conducted to confirm archaeological integrity.
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While the barracks have been lost, the remaining building and site are important components of the Hillsborough Military Academy and retain integrity of location, setting, feeling, and association. The dining hall also retains integrity of materials and workmanship and possibly design pending determination of its original form. Recommended boundaries for the National Register expansion include the seven-acre parcel on which the Dining Hall stands as well as two adjacent parcels to the south, one of which contains the foundation of the Barracks, and both of which retain tree lines and other landscape features, though are vacant of buildings. The three parcels together encompass approximately 21.5 acres and provide sufficient setting and context for the former Hillsborough Military Academy. WA3001 – Ja-Max Motor Lodge 740 Cornelius Street The 1952 Ja-Max Motor Lodge is one of a few surviving examples of mid-twentieth century motels in Hillsborough and is potentially significant under Criterion A for Commerce and possibly Transportation as well as Criterion C for Architecture, though the specific criteria can be determined prior to the nomination. Named for James and Maxine Freeland, the hotel was one of several motels built by Freeland in Hillsborough, Durham, Mebane, Chapel Hill and Roxboro. Freeland also constructed the Daniel Boone Inn (part of the Daniel Boone Village) south of town, though while a significant example of modern architecture, the interior condition of that building could not be confirmed. Automobile travel for recreational and leisure soared during the mid-twentieth century, necessitating convenient places to stay along major interstates and highways after days spent traveling on the road. The Ja-Max Motor Lodge illustrates the dominance of automobile-oriented recreation during America’s 1950s and 1960s with its location along a main thoroughfare, U.S. 70, lamp posts lining the driveway and leading to the office at the center of the building, and its large parking area where guests could park directly outside of their easily accessed rooms. The building retains a high degree of material integrity and illustrates the application of Rustic Revival-style elements and mid-century residential features to a commercial building. The wide building is a single room deep and has a low-pitched hipped roof, stone veneer on the lower portion of the façade, and asbestos siding with grouped two-over-two horizontal-pane wood-sash windows above, features common on Ranch houses of the era, but rare on commercial resources. The interior configuration with eleven rooms, each with their own bathroom, remains intact with the only changes occurring to the office space, which has been enlarged by partially enclosing a portion of the inset porch adjacent to the front-gabled office, but could easily be reversed.
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The two-and-a-half-acre tax parcel includes the hotel, parking area, driveway, and open space in front of the building with a grove of mature trees to the northwest. A modern two-story house and shed southwest of the motel are on the same parcel, but are excluded from the proposed boundary. An attached rear wing of the motel, that appears to have been a residence for the motel manager, is partially located on an adjacent parcel despite being physically attached to the motel. Issues regarding the ownership and property boundaries will need to be resolved as part of the National Register nomination. The resulting 2.87-acre tract with the motel, parking area and expansive front lawn, retains integrity of location, setting, design, materials, workmanship, feeling, and association.
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