High Crag

High Crag —

A Bouldering Guide

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A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland, including:

The Stell Whiteheugh Raven’s Crag

Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham Greensheen Hill Parkside Wood

The Maiden Chambers Area St Cuthbert’s Cave The Bowden Area

The Wanneys Group Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh Blakey’s Bloc

Cockenheugh Kyloe Out Rothley

The Ravensheugh Area Banno Crags Titlington and the Turban

South Yardhope Brady’s Crag Coquet View

Shitlington The Lost World Lookwide

Howlerhirst High Crag

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NMC Northumbrian

Mountaineering

Club

Steve Blake

No County for Old Men 7a+

Steve Blake Collection

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

TECHNICAL NOTES

The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.

Maps

The County is covered by seven Ordnance Survey Explorer (1:25,000) maps. Sheets 339 (Kelso), 340 (Holy Island), OL16 (The Cheviot Hills), 332 (Alnwick and Amble), OL42 (Kielder Water), 325 (Morpeth) and OL43 (Hadrian’s Wall). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 340 and 332.

General

On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.

Sit Starts

Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named.

Rules

It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!

Further Information

The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk

New Problems

Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A descrip-tion, grade, date and name of first ascensionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help.

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Bob Smith

Greensheen Slopers Traverse

Greensheen Hill

BOULDERING GRADES

It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that, until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering , it is easily confused with quali-ty. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour.

The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective mer-its.

In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and un-derstood.

Highballs

The height of many crags in the County demands a highball ap-proach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small. Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Fall-ing off them should not be treated casually. While highballs are self-evident, many shorter problems have bad landings and need careful padding and spotting. Be careful!

Steve Blake

Dutch Courage

Shitlington

Photo: Alec Burns

FONT

GRADE

UK TECH

GRADE

V GRADE

3 4c VB

4 5a

V0

4+ 5b

5 V1

5+ 5c

6a V2

6a+ 6a V3

6b

6b+ V4

6c

6c+

6b V5

7a V6

7a+ 6c V7

7b

7b+ V8

7c V9

7c+ V10

8a 7a V11

8a+ V12

8b 7b V13

8b

8b+

8c

8c+

V14

V15

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

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SUSTAINABILITY

The quality and durability of Sandstone in North-umberland varies significantly both on and be-tween crags. Iron hard rock with a case hard-ened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence that the tough pati-na when worn away reveals a soft inner that rap-idly erodes. There are many examples, but Vien-na at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in its current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original .

Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.

It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of damp-ness. The rock becomes significantly weaker los-ing its bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are exponential.

Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particular-ly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out, and this is on rock thought of as hard.

We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them:

1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condi-tion.

2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a prob-lem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it without beating it into submission. We need to have enough hu-

mility to understand that the rock’s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.

Vienna

Bowden Doors

David Murray

On Barnaby Rudge

The Good Book Section, The Stell.

Alec Burns collection

3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.

4. Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, eg twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.

5. Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the rock.

6. Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.

Introduction... ...High Crag

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History

The crag was first visited long ago by Bob Smith, while exploring for new venues with his wife Linda. At

that time there were other fish to fry and Bob catalogued the venue for the future. Some 20 years later

he and Steve Blake established several short problems on the peripheral boulders while noting the obvi-

ous potential for hard highballs! Dan Varian became aware that there was a striking arête to be

climbed somewhere in the County and his independent research eventually identified High Crag as its

location. In 2014 he began working the arête and its overhanging left flank. Steve Blake eventually re-

turned and in May 2015 climbed the right wall of the arête, ‘No County for Old Men’ a superb 7a+, But

the main event, was and is, Dan’s soaring arête - Star Power. He relatively rapidly established the

standing start version, but the sit was much more complex issue and had an exponential impact on the

moves above. There were a lot of frustrating, close failures, but after a lot of effort and patience Dan

eventually latched the final pocket high on the prow’s right side to complete the project and estab-

lish one of Northumberland’s finest problems. The same day Steve completed the left arête of the gully

(Media Line), and then traversed the right wall , The Brachistocrone Solution.

Approach and Aspect

Approaching Bellingham from the south on the B6320, cross the bridge and turn left onto the minor

road, ( Newcastleton, Kielder and Greenhaugh). Continue for several miles to a T junction at Lanehead.

Turn right here for Greenhaugh. At the next junction (just before Greenhaugh) and turn right. Contin-

ue for 0.9 miles (1500m) , a gate with stock pens will appear on the right. Park here, or in the layby

300m West. (Note the North verge is boggy). Approaching from the north or east drive south through

Bellingham and turn right just before the bridge.

Having parked, strike out over the moor with the fence and wall on your right, crossing a stream at

about 300m . A further 300m of undulating walking will bring you to a fence/wall junction, cross this and

continue on a feint quad track for a further 400m. As you reach the crest the crag will appear on your

left.

The crag is South facing, in a superb position overlooking the North Tyne valley. It is however, very ex-

posed to the elements!

N

Crag Overview

Location Data

Parking Lat Long:

WGS 84 55.14332

-2.2330196

N Location Data

Parking Lat Long (Layby):

WGS 84 55.179658 –2.305616

Crag GR: NY813864

Crag Detail

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High Crag

High Crag

B6320 to Wark

B632

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Bellingham

Howlerhirst

Howlerhirst Quarry

The crag is on CRoW land.

High Crag OS Map Sheet OL42 : GR NY 813 864

Altitude: 270m

Aspect: South Facing

Approach: 15 Minutes

CAUTION

All of the harder problems rely on delicate flakes that will likely snap if they are used when wet. In order to preserve the problems in their original state,

and to avoid scarring, do not go to this venue unless there has been at least a week of dry weather. The flakes need to be dry through, not just on the

surface. It would be tragic to ruin the problems and the crag with unnecessary scarring. Please be patient.

In particular, if the obvious top flake on Media Line snaps then whoever breaks it is likely to get hurt…...

The Introductory Bloc… ...High Crag The West Wall… ...High Crag

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The Introductory Bloc

1. The World’s Most Obsessive Fly Tipper - Jump 7b+

DV.

Definitely not a sit start! . Using the hold in the roof (left hand

obviously!) jump up to the pocket. And continue up….

2. The Obsessive Fly Tipper 6c+/7a SB.

Standing Start. Worm up the groove and reach out to the

pocket on the left and continue up the crack and wall above.

3. Computer Says Noooooo! 6c DV.

Up the groove on the left of the wall then move right to larger

holds and the top

4. Second Fiddle 8a+ DV.

Sit Start. Excellent! Small holds lead to the undercut flake,

more small holds lead to the second undercut flake, which in

turn allows the larger holds on the merely vertical section to

be reached . 7c from the crimpy pocket and undercut standing.

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The Obsessive Fly Tipper

Observant visitors will notice scattered around the

crag, the remains of several computer monitors or

portable TVs.

Why and how they got there remains a mystery….

Most probably they have been used as targets by a

heavily armed shepherd driven insane by the falling

standards in One Man and His Dog, though Dan specu-

lated they were the spoil of ‘The World’s Most Obses-

sive Fly Tipper’….. Whatever, they are incongruous

and S having the potential to seriously confuse future

Time Teams, the debris will gradually be removed.

If you do encounter an angry bloke with a trailer load

of TVs and a shotgun, best leave and let him have his

fun!

Micky Stainthorpe

The World’s Most Obsessive Fly Tipper—Jump 7b+

Mark Savage Photography

Dan Varian

Getting high on Second Fiddle SS FA. 8a+

Steve Blake

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The wall to the right overhangs severely. Both problems on it are

(obviously) highballs that need careful padding and spotting. Second

Fiddle is reliant on delicate flakes — do not try it unless it is properly dry.

The Left Wall… ...High Crag The Right Wall… ...High Crag

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The Prow

This jutting arête is one of the most taxing, and finest problems in

the County. Significant technical difficulty, a great line, position

and enough height to be worrying.

5. Star Power. 8b+ (TBC) DV.

Sit Start. ‘13 hard hand and tricky foot moves, A long pow-

er test piece’. Climb the narrow arête using a combination

of slender side -holds, cunning heel hooks, awkward pinch-

es and a crucial half pad mono high on the arête. Pull out

right using the relatively large two tips pocket. 8a+ from

the stand.

6. No County for Old Men. 7a+ SB.

(Yes, it has been done with a Sit Start, but it’s pointless, so

stand up!)

Use the runnel to reach a good pocket in the hole. Use the

flake above to span out left and (gently) swing onto the

wall. From this fine position, reach the top.

7. Media Line. 6b+ SB.

Easily climb the left arête to a difficult move using a delicate flake

at the top. Unsatisfactory and escapable bar the last move.

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6

High Crag was originally discovered by Bob Smith, way , way

back in the day, and added to his Black Book for future develop-

ment. It lay dormant for perhaps 18 years until Bob and Steve

Blake added some easier problems on the flanks. Dan had be-

come aware of the mythical arête and hunted it for several

years,. Subtly interrogating Steve Blake didn’t help much but he

gradually eliminated a lot of venues and eventually pieced the

jigsaw together , realising (Doh!) he’d been looking at it for

years from Howlerhirst!

Dan’s activity eventually drew Steve back to the crag . Dan and

Micky Stainthorpe had generously left the wall right of the prow

for Steve (his ‘project’). After nearly managing the wall ground

up, Steve returned and cleaned the top holds, a further solitary

visit saw the wall completed. Steve subsequently added the

Gully’s arete and unusual Brachistochrone Solution.

Dan’s project understandably took much longer, the arête was

done from the stand quite quickly, but the sit start added an

exponential level of complexity, and compounded the difficulties

at the top where a blind reach for a key mono proved frus-

tratingly elusive. Eventually benefitting from short rest period

Dan arrived at the crag fresh. Conditions weren’t perfect but

were good enough. A short warm up was followed by smoothly

dispatching the arête from the stand. A short rest and the Sit

Start was on! There was no hesitation , just strong fluid motion

9

Both No County for Old Men

and Gully Wall use some obvi-

ous delicate flakes that need to

be dry.

Breaking the flake at the top of

the Gully Arête will probably

result in a very ugly fall and

injury.

Please do NOT attempt these

problems if they are at all

damp.

8

Dan Varian on

Star Power 8b+

Mark Savage Photography

Steve Blake

The Brachistochrone Solution. 7a.

Bob Smith Collection.

Steve Blake

Rocking out the finish to Media Line 6b+

8. The Brachistochrone Solution. 7a. SB.

An unusual problem! Two tantalising finger

pockets beckon in the centre of the right wall.

Reach these from the gully and span out to

flakes on the arête. Go figure…. The direct

start is an open project.

9. High Crag Arete - Left Hand Start. 6a. SB.

Pull up the LHS of the arête, then spin around

to the right side, and up.

The East Wall… ...High Crag The Morning Bloc… ...High Crag

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The East Wall

10. High Crag Arête Right Hand Start . 6a/5+ SB.

After an awkward initial pull, the slabby arête eases. Perhaps just

HVS in old money?

11. The Crack. 4 SB.

Again the start is much more difficult than what’s above. VS in old

money.

12. The East Wall Traverse. 6c SB.

Follow the line of crimps and sideholds under the small overhang

13. An alternative finish to the crack is to break out right up the

featured wall. About Severe.

The Morning Bloc

14. The Dawn 6b+ BS.

Sit Start. A hard pull from the obvious pocket enables the left

hand to slap up the left edge/facet . Stand up and top out.

Tim Blake on The Moon

and Saturn 7a+

Photo: Steve Blake

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12

15

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Steve Blake

High Crag Arete 6a

Steve Blake Collection

15. Dusk 6c+ BS.

Sit Start. This deceptive and awkward feature is difficult to

enter and demands flexibility.

16. My Left Foot 6b BS.

Sit Start. Use the obvious pockets to pull onto the slab.

Bob Smith

The Dawn

Steve Blake Collection

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Bob Smith

My Left Foot

Bob Smith Collection

The Cave… ...High Crag … High Crag

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The Cave

Above and behind the Eastern Bloc.

17. SR71 6a+ SB.

Follow the crack through the roof to a

good hold over the top.

Avoid disturbing the Blackbird’s nest on

the right.

(SR71s - (Blackbirds ) were usually

found above and behind the Eastern

Bloc.)

The Photos

A superb photographer, Mark Savage is a generous supporter of the NMC Guidebooks and Supplements, freely donating

superb images which lift the quality of both, from the average to the spectacular. Images such as these are the result of

a lot of work technique and knowledge. The rig that he carries to the crag is enormous, and matched by the weight of his

rucksack and other kit.

His enthusiasm at the crag is infectious — but be warned. If you volunteer for a photo shoot you’ll be there till after

dark , running laps on the problems trying to catch clouds! The results are worth it though.

Steve Blake

No County for Old Men

Mark Savage Photography

Dan Varian

Mark Savage Photography

In addition, Mark’s background of hard climbing gives him an invaluable insight into the activity. He has assembled a

unique archive of climbs and problems in the County . Some of these will emerge in this series of supplements.

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Could you just do it again?

Bob Smith

Dawn

Bob Smith Collection