HERITAGE TECHNICAL NOTES

ENQUIRIES 08 8203 7445

STANDARD VERANDAH DETAILS

page 2

DRAWINGS PREPARED 30/6/07

of 5

brick string course

wall plate 4" x 2"chamfered

roof profile -

hip flashing

end panel -

100mm refolded OGEE gutter

scotia 32 - 42mm or 19mm squarebeadfascia -

corner bracket -

fascia return

capital -

neck moulding-

stop chamfers (chiselled endsnot routed)

divider screen rail -

divider screen capping

divider screen -

post

post base -

verandah base edging -cast iron vent under door

0.8 metal hip strap folded back on itself

rolled hip flashing (acrylic coated lead)

front door transom

front door threshold

bottom rail

cast iron frieze (optional)

post / fascia housing combination

A

B

C

D

E

CONCAVE OR EYELASH

CONVEX

OGEE OR BELL CURVE

STRAIGHT

BULLNOSE

R O O F P R O F I L E SEARLY

VICTORIAN

LATEVICTORIAN

ADELAIDE VERANDAHSVictorian Period 1870 - 1900ADELAIDE’S OWN VERNACULARAdelaide and its older suburbs have their own distinctivevernacular style of nineteenth century architecture, whichdistinguishes it from the other cities. Importantly this vernacularincludes the typical Adelaide verandah and its variants.Council's heritage policy is to recognise + reinforce Adelaide'sunique historic character, established by this vernacular based onarchival photographic and physical evidence and to ensure thatnew and replacement verandahs are historically accurate andcomplement Adelaide’s historic houses.

RETAINING ORIGINAL VERANDAHS AND REMNANTSWhere an original verandah still exists in whole or in part, theoriginal elements should be retained and repaired rather thanreplaced. It is better to have ‘The Real McCoy’ rather than a newfacsimile in heritage terms. Partially rotten timber posts/fasciascan often be repaired using epoxy or by splicing new timber intothe remaining sound timber. Generally original galvanized ironverandah roof iron should be conserved.

RESEARCHIn the absence of having of an original verandah, one shouldendeavour to find out what the original verandah looked like.There may be remnants of the original verandah, often there is ahalf post remaining against the wall, sometimes complete withpost mouldings. Often an impression of the original verandah halfpost and mouldings can be seen on the plaster quoin where apaint build impression has been left as a ghost of the originalverandah. Impressions of the original roof profile are often evidentwhere it returned to the wall.Any physical evidence found should form the basis of the newverandah reinstatement, and any remnants should be retainedand incorporated into the new verandah.Historical photos may be available from past owners or onlinethrough the State Library of South Australia Mortlock LibraryPictorial Collection of South Australiana: (search the street nameor town acre eg 'acre 499') www.catalog.slsa.sa.gov.au:1084/search/XAdditional resources and assistance can be sought via theAdelaide City Council heritage website: www.adelaidecitycouncil.com.au/heritage

2

G L O S S A R Y O F T E R M S

A B C D E

A B C

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

A B C

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

E



page 2


of 5

brick string course

wall plate 4" x 2"chamfered

roof profile -

hip flashing

end panel -

100mm refolded OGEE gutter

scotia 32 - 42mm or 19mm squarebeadfascia -

corner bracket -

fascia return

capital -

neck moulding-

stop chamfers (chiselled endsnot routed)

divider screen rail -

divider screen capping

divider screen -

post

post base -

verandah base edging -cast iron vent under door

0.8 metal hip strap folded back on itself

rolled hip flashing (acrylic coated lead)

front door transom

front door threshold

bottom rail

cast iron frieze (optional)

post / fascia housing combination

A

B

C

D

E

CONCAVE OR EYELASH

CONVEX

OGEE OR BELL CURVE

STRAIGHT

BULLNOSE

R O O F P R O F I L E SEARLY

VICTORIAN

LATEVICTORIAN

ADELAIDE VERANDAHSVictorian Period 1870 - 1900ADELAIDE’S OWN VERNACULARAdelaide and its older suburbs have their own distinctivevernacular style of nineteenth century architecture, whichdistinguishes it from the other cities. Importantly this vernacularincludes the typical Adelaide verandah and its variants.Council's heritage policy is to recognise + reinforce Adelaide'sunique historic character, established by this vernacular based onarchival photographic and physical evidence and to ensure thatnew and replacement verandahs are historically accurate andcomplement Adelaide’s historic houses.

RETAINING ORIGINAL VERANDAHS AND REMNANTSWhere an original verandah still exists in whole or in part, theoriginal elements should be retained and repaired rather thanreplaced. It is better to have ‘The Real McCoy’ rather than a newfacsimile in heritage terms. Partially rotten timber posts/fasciascan often be repaired using epoxy or by splicing new timber intothe remaining sound timber. Generally original galvanized ironverandah roof iron should be conserved.

RESEARCHIn the absence of having of an original verandah, one shouldendeavour to find out what the original verandah looked like.There may be remnants of the original verandah, often there is ahalf post remaining against the wall, sometimes complete withpost mouldings. Often an impression of the original verandah halfpost and mouldings can be seen on the plaster quoin where apaint build impression has been left as a ghost of the originalverandah. Impressions of the original roof profile are often evidentwhere it returned to the wall.Any physical evidence found should form the basis of the newverandah reinstatement, and any remnants should be retainedand incorporated into the new verandah.Historical photos may be available from past owners or onlinethrough the State Library of South Australia Mortlock LibraryPictorial Collection of South Australiana: (search the street nameor town acre eg 'acre 499') www.catalog.slsa.sa.gov.au:1084/search/XAdditional resources and assistance can be sought via theAdelaide City Council heritage website: www.adelaidecitycouncil.com.au/heritage

2

G L O S S A R Y O F T E R M S

A B C D E

A B C

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

A B C

A B C D

A B C D

A B C D

E

ADELAIDE’S OWN VERNACULAR Adelaide and the older suburbs have their own distinctive vernacular style of nineteenth century architecture, which distinguishes it from the other capital cities. Importantly, this vernacular includes the typical Adelaide verandah and its variants. Council’s heritage policy is to recognise and reinforce Adelaide’s unique historic character. These drawings in these Technical Notes are based on archival photographic and physical evidence. RETAINING ORIGINAL VERANDAHS AND REMNANTS Where an original verandah still exists in whole or in part, the original elements should be retained and repaired rather than replaced with new materials to retain the cultural significance of the building. Partially rotted timber posts and fascias can often be repaired using epoxy or by splicing new timber into the remaining sound timber. Original galvanized verandah roof sheeting should be repaired and conserved where possible. RESEARCH If the original verandah has been removed, look carefully for any remnants of the original structure such as a half-post against the wall, or a paint outline of the original verandah post and mouldings or the roof profile on the wall. Use any physical evidence to inform the new verandah. Any remnants should be retained and incorporated into the new structure.Historical photos may be available from past owners or online via: State Library of South Australia, www.catalog.slsa.sa.gov.auCity of Adelaide Archives, www.cityofadelaide.com.au/cityarchives

HERITAGE TECHNICAL NOTESVERANDAHS

DRAWINGS PREPARED BY ALEXANDER WILKINSON DESIGN + PLANNING BY DESIGN (2007)

Phone 8203 7185Email [email protected] cityofadelaide.com.au/heritage

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CONTACT THE CITY OF ADELAIDE HERITAGE TEAM


STANDARD VERANDAH DETAILSpage 3DRAWINGS PREPARED 30/6/07

of 5

acrylic coated lead rolled topflashing

fit snug againstthe wall (noflashing)

TYPICAL DESIGNThe most common mid victorian era Adelaide verandah wastypically a concave (eyelash) profile with square timber withdecorative mouldings. Later verandahs had a bullnosed profileand later still had turned timber posts. Even quite modestcottages had relatively ornate verandahs, which served to bothshelter and decorate the house.HEIGHT & WIDTHTypically ‘Adelaide’ verandahs were about 2200-2300mm (7+ft)high, such that the underside of the fascia aligned with thetransom over the front door. Sometimes the verandah had afrieze rail at this height when the overall height of the buildingand verandah was greater. The width varied from as narrow as1100mm to as wide as 2500mm, though a width in the range1500-1800mm (5-6ft) is common. Generally smaller lowercottages set close to the street had narrower verandahs andlarger houses with substantial front gardens had widerverandahs.

NOTE*The most common mistake with new verandah reinstatement ishaving the fascia too high, such that it is higher than the frontdoor and the roof slope too shallow.

SET-OUT APPROACHGenerally verandahs were set out with posts spaced, such thatthe posts frame both the front door and the adjacent windowssuch that the windows appear to be in the centre of the span.A common mistake is to set the posts out at equal spans suchthat the post positions do not relate to the windows, andsometimes even end up partly in front of the windows.

PAINTINGVerandah roofs were often painted, even when the main roof wasnot painted (ie left unpainted galvanized iron). Thus it isappropriate to have a new galvanized/grey roof and a red or atraditional striped verandah. Alternatively, if a uniform appearanceis sought, the new or existing roof and verandah can be paintedwith a traditional micaceous (bridge) paint, which generally isdark grey and very long lasting.The underside of verandahs was invariably a light pastel greentype colour, such as ‘Eau de Nil’(Water of the Nile) or the backingcolour of canvas, ‘Opaline Green’.The original colour is often evident on the wall plate or splatterson the wall. Blue/grey green variants can be used, but a softpastel colour that is restful on the eye is the key, as opposed tocream or white. The green colour is also considered to deter flys.All metal elements including gutters & cast iron should bepainted with gloss enamel (rather than water based acrylicpaint) to avoide rusting.

E N D P A N E L S

A

B

C O R N E R B R A C K E T S D I V I D E R S C R E E N SA

B

C

3

A

HIPPED

GABLE ENDED (CONCAVE)

GABLE END (BULLNOSE)

B v a r i a n t

NOTE: A RANGE OF CAST IRON BRACKETS AND FRIEZESWERE USED IN VICTORIAN TIMES FROM THE AC HARLEYFULTONS ET AL RANGES MANY OF WHICH ARE STILLAVALIABLE. CONTACT COUNCIL HERITAGE STAFF FORASSISTANCE WITH APPROPRIATE SELECTIONS

STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E

MATERIALS- corrugatediron (19mmbarrel pressiron)- mini-orb- 150mmregencybeadedmatchboard



of 5







E N D P A N E L S

A

B


B

C

3

A

HIPPED



B v a r i a n t


STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E




of 5







E N D P A N E L S

A

B


B

C

3

A

HIPPED



B v a r i a n t


STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E




of 5







E N D P A N E L S

A

B


B

C

3

A

HIPPED



B v a r i a n t


STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E




of 5







E N D P A N E L S

A

B


B

C

3

A

HIPPED



B v a r i a n t


STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E




of 5







E N D P A N E L S

A

B


B

C

3

A

HIPPED



B v a r i a n t


STRAIGHT

OGEECURVED

RAKED

A

B

C

D

E


TYPICAL DESIGN The most common mid-Victorian era Adelaide verandah was typically a concave (eyelash) profile with square timber posts and decorative mouldings. Later verandahs had a bullnosed profile and turned timber posts. Even quite modest cottages had relatively ornate verandahs, which served to both shelter and decorate the house. HEIGHT & WIDTH Typically ‘Adelaide’ verandahs were about 2200mm-2300mm (7ft+) high, so the underside of the fascia aligned with the front door transom. Sometimes the verandah had a frieze rail at this height when the building and verandah were higher. The verandah width varied from 1100mm to 2500mm. A common width was 1500mm-1800mm (5-6ft). Generally more modest cottages close to the street had narrow verandahs and larger houses with substantial front gardens and wide verandahs. *NOTE Common mistakes with new verandahs are fascias higher than the front door and shallow roof pitches. SET-OUT APPROACH Generally verandahs were set out with the posts spaced, framing the front door and the adjacent windows, with the windows appearing to be in the centre of the span. A common mistake is to set the posts out at equal spans so the posts do not relate to the windows, and may even be in front of the windows. PAINTING Verandah roofs were often painted, even when the main roof was unpainted galvanized sheeting. It may be appropriate to have a red or a traditional striped verandah roof. Alternatively, if a uniform appearance is sought, the new or existing roof and verandah can be painted with a traditional micaceous (bridge) paint, which generally is dark grey and very long lasting. The underside of verandahs was invariably a light pastel green colour, such as ‘Eau-de-Nil’ (Water of the Nile) or the backing colour of canvas, ‘Opaline Green’. The original colour to the underside is often evident on the wall plate or splatters on the wall. Soft pastel colours, particularly blue/grey green are more suitable than creams or whites. Green is considered to deter flies. All metal elements including gutters & cast iron should be painted with gloss enamel (rather than water based acrylic paint) to avoid rusting.

MATERIALS- matchboard (vertical or diagonal)- mini-orb (vertical)- fine (20mm) lattice (diagonal)




VERANDAH BASE Generally verandah bases are set sufficiently below the front door threshold to allow for a vent to aid underfloor ventilation in the hallway. Sometimes the base did come up to the underside of a thick redgum threshold when heights didn’t allow for an under-floor vent. Tiled verandahs were edged in either bullnose slate or cant (splayed) bricks on edge. A simple smooth finish concrete verandah with a gently curved edge was also common. Bullnose slate edging was generally between 32mm and 40mm (11/4”-11/2”) thick, and sometimes up to 50mm (2”). Edging width was either 230mm (9”) or 305mm (1ft). Cant bricks were about 65mm wide with a 60mm splay. The wall below the edging was typically bluestone. Posts were usually centred on the edging. Verandahs were not always tiled; often a simple red screed was laid within the border or a square of tiles were used in front of the front door. Early and mid-Victorian houses typically had pottery tiles, 6” wide square set on a diagonal in two colours, or hexagonal tiles with oatmeal squares within. Later Victorian houses generally had red and cream or black octagon and dot tessellated tiles. Tiles should be laid with virtually no grout gap to emulate the traditional appearance of verandah tiles. TIMBER DIMENSIONS Verandah posts were typically a ‘finished’ size of 100mm (4”) thick. These should be planed down from a standard 115mm post. Larger villas had posts up to 120mm. A common mistake is to use off the shelf 90mm posts, which are too thin and ‘matchstick’-like. Fascias were typically about 220mm deep by 32mm-50mm thick. Typically fascias had a bead at the bottom, which is finer than off-the-shelf beaded fascias. Fascia which were stop chamfered rather than beaded were 50mm thick. Where a timber frieze rail and cast iron infill frieze was used on larger/higher houses, the fascia was not beaded or stop chamfered. CARPENTRYVerandah fascias were typically housed into the posts so the posts appear to run up to the underside of the gutter with the timber scotia running between the posts. Verandah posts usually had concealed fixing to the verandah rather than metal post bases. Simple cottages had the posts set into the ground. To emulate this appearance a concealed ‘T’ piece post fixing can be used. More substantial houses typically had a simple skirting block around the base with concealed metal fixings. Elevated cast iron post shoes were rare.



page 4


of 5

po

st

wid

thp

ost

wid

th

32 - 40mm 32 - 40mm

cast iron corner bracket

cast iron corner bracketwith frieze runningbetween posts

5mm gap withsilicone to protectfrom rotting

frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60

cast iron cornerbracket


frieze

VERANDAH BASEGenerally verandah bases are set sufficiently below the front doorthreshold to allow for a vent to aid underfloor ventilation in thehallway. Sometimes the base did come up to the underside of athick redgum threshold when heights didn’t allow for a ventunderneath.Tiled verandahs always had an edging of either bullnose slate orcant (splayed) bricks on edge. It was often common for a simplesmooth concrete type finish verandah with a gently curved edge.Bullnose slate edging was generally between 32 and 40mm(11/4”-11/2”) thick, and sometimes as much as 50mm (2”). Thewidth was either 230mm (9”) OR 305mm (1ft).Cant brick edging had a 60mm splay and were about 65mm wide.Below the edging it was typically bluestone where it wasexposed.The posts were generally centred on the edging.Verandahs were not always tiled; often a simpe red screed waslaid within the border, or a square of tiles in front of the front door.Earlier and mid Victorian houses typically had pottery tiles, 6”wide square set on a diagonal in two colours, or hexagonal tileswith oatmeal squares within. Later Victorian houses generally hadthe red and cream or black octagon and dot tessellated tiles.Tiles should be laid with virtually no grout gap to emulate thetraditional appearance of verandah tiles, and not look like abathroom floor.

TIMBER ELEMENT DIMENSIONSVerandah posts were typically 100mm (4”) thick. These typicallyneed to be planed down to size from a standard 115mm post.Only larger villas had thicker posts up to 120mm.A common mistake is to use off the shelf 90mm posts, whichappear too thin and ‘matchstick’-like.Fascias were typically about 220mm deep by 32-50mm thick.Typically fascias had a bead at the bottom, which was usuallyfiner than off-the-shelf beaded fascias.50mm fascias were employed where the fascia was stopchamfered rather than beaded.Where a timber frieze rail and cast iron infill freize used on larger/higher houses, the facia had neither a bead nor a stop chamfer.

CARPENTRY/CONSTRUCTIONVerandah fascias were typically housed into the posts such thatthe posts appear to run up to the underside of the gutter with thescotia running between the posts.Verandah posts typically had concealed fixing to the verandahbase rather than metal post shoes. Simple cottages had the postsset into the ground. To emulate this appearance a concealed ‘T’piece can be used. More substantial houses typically had asimple skirting block around the base with concealed metalfixings. Very rarely elevated cast iron post shoes were employed.

4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B

C A P I T A L S1 : 1

P O S T / F A S C I A H O U S I N G C O M B I N A T I O N S1 : 2 0

N E C K M O U L D I N G S1 : 1

A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D

FINE (12mm) BEADEDFASCIA, NOTCHED INTO

POST

12-24mm BEADED FASCIA

STOP CHAMFERED BEVELLEDFASCIA

SQUARE FASCIA WITH TIMBERFRIEZE RAIL

SMALL OGEECAPITAL WITH

BEAD

LARGE OGEECAPITAL WITH

SCOTIA

SMALL BLOCKCAPITAL LARGE BLOCK

CAPITAL

PLAIN POSTBASE(TYPICAL)

SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)

CAST IRON ELEVATED POSTSHOE

(UN COMMON)

ROUNDED EDGE PLAINCONCRETE BASE

65-70mm CANTBRICK EDGING WITHCUT & STRUCK 3:1

(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE

305mm BULLNOSE SLATE

(may be beaded or stopchamfered to outside face)

'U' OR 'T' PIECE POST FIXINGCONCEALED BY SKIRTNG BLOCKS

INAPPROPRIATE PROPRIETARYCAST ALUMINIUM 'OFF THE SHELF'

POST BASEGALVANIZED 'T' PIECE

CONCEALED POST FIXING

~ 290 - 350TO MATCH HEIGHT

OF CORNER BRACKET

FASCIA /FRIEZEALIGNEDWITHUNDERSIDEOFTRANSOM

STRAIGHT CHAMFER(COMMON)

CURVED CHAMFER WITHSTEP (COMMON)

OGEE CHAMFER (RARE)A B C

historically buried

(bevel stops100mm short ofcorner bracket)



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32 - 40mm 32 - 40mm




frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60



frieze




4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B




A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D


POST





BEAD


SCOTIA


CAPITAL


SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)


(UN COMMON)



(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE








OF CORNER BRACKET





historically buried




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32 - 40mm 32 - 40mm




frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60



frieze




4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B




A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D


POST





BEAD


SCOTIA


CAPITAL


SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)


(UN COMMON)



(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE








OF CORNER BRACKET





historically buried




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32 - 40mm 32 - 40mm




frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60



frieze




4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B




A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D


POST





BEAD


SCOTIA


CAPITAL


SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)


(UN COMMON)



(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE








OF CORNER BRACKET





historically buried




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32 - 40mm 32 - 40mm




frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60



frieze




4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B




A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D


POST





BEAD


SCOTIA


CAPITAL


SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)


(UN COMMON)



(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE








OF CORNER BRACKET





historically buried




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frieze

frieze rail 60 x 60



frieze




4

OGEE CAPITAL

SMALL BLOCK CAPITAL

A

C

CA B




A B

CD

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D


POST





BEAD


SCOTIA


CAPITAL


SIMPLEBEVELL

SKIRTINGBLOCK

(COMMON)

LAMBSTOUNGESKIRTING

BLOCK(LESS

COMMON)


(UN COMMON)



(SAND:LIME)MORTAR

230mm BULLNOSESLATE








OF CORNER BRACKET





historically buried





MATERIALSVerandah posts were usually jarrah or oregon. Fascias were typically oregon. Perma-pine is generally inappropriate as it is prone to splitting and twisting. LSOP (laminated timber) is not recommended as it has a different appearance to the natural timber grain, even after painting. VERANDAH ROOFS If the original verandah roof is in good condition, it should be retained. Verandah roofs were very well built out of heavy deep profile iron and tank riveted for additional strength. If the main house is re-roofed in Colorbond it is better to paint the original verandah to match rather than replace the verandah iron itself. Historically verandah roofs were designed to appear as canvas. The Victorian era concave profile roof emulated the natural slump of canvas roofs. Verandahs roofs were striped in alternate colours like striped canvas. Verandah roof sheets were 8 flutes rather than 10 flutes wide. If the sheets are replaced it is preferable to use 8 flute (rainwater) tank iron so that if the verandah is ever painted in stripes the stripes will be the correct width and set out across the width of the verandah. Verandah gutters should be ogee profile and narrower (100mm) than the main roof gutters.Verandah downpipes were typically 50mm metal and cranked from the back around the quoins to connect into the main roof downpipes, which were typically set around the side of the building behind the quoin. This avoided downpipes clashing with post mouldings. COMMONLY REPEATED MISTAKES IN NEW VERANDAHS

• Verandah posts too thin, 90mm• Verandah too high • Posts set at equal spans • Verandah base too high• Standard gutters rather than 100mm refolded ogee gutter• Tiling to the edge without a slate or brick border

RARE VARIATIONS Verandahs occasionally had additional entry statements, such as a gablet over the entrance.



page 5


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existing galv roof

800

optional painted leadcapping for weatherprotection

traditional galvskylight

MATERIALS (TIMBER SPECIES)Verandah posts were typically made of jarrah or Oregon. Fasciaswere typically Oregon. The use of perma-pine is generallyinappropriate for verandahs as it is prone to splitting and twistingand typically comes in 90mm and other inappropriatedimensions. The use of LSOP (laminated timber) is notrecommended as the laminated timber surface texture ratherthan the natural timber grain shows through the paint.

VERANDAH ROOFSIf the original verandah roof remains, it should generally beretained. Verandah roofs were very well built out of heavy deepprofile iron and tank riveted for additional strength. Even if slightlydamaged they can generally be repaired which is preferable tobeing replaced with new, relatively lighter guage iron. If the mainhouse is re-roofed in Colorbond it is better to paint the originalverandah to match rather than replace the verandah iron itself.Historically verandah roofs were designed to appear as canvas.The concave profile emulates the natural slump that canvaswould have. In Victorian times it was typical for verandahs to bestriped in alternate colours as canvas is often striped. Theverandah roof sheets were 8 flute rather than 10 flute. If the ironis replaced it is preferable to utilize 8 flute (rainwater) tank iron sothat if the verandah is ever painted in stripes the stripes will bethe correct width and set out across the width of the verandah.Verandah gutters should be ogee profile and narrower (100mm)than the main roof gutters, such that the gutter is refolded 50mmnarrower than a standard gutter.Verandah downpipes were typically 50mm metal and crankedfrom the back around the quoins to connect into the main roofdownpipes, which were typically set around the side behind thequoin. This configuration avoids the downpipes clashing with thepost mouldings.

COMMONLY REPEATED MISTAKES IN NEW VERANDAHS� !Verandah posts too thin, 90mm� !Verandah too high� !Posts set at equal spans� !Verandah base too high� !Standard gutters rather than 100mm refolded ogee gutter� !Tiling to the edge without a slate or brick border

RARE VARIATIONSVerandahs occasionally had additional entry statements, such asa gablet over the entrance.

B A S E P L A N S S E T O U T

A

B

C

D I V I D E R S C R E E NC A P P I N G S + R A I L S

A

B

CD

A

B

5

A

C 150mm EQUAL SIDED OCTAGON POTTERYTILE (NB NO TILE BORDER)

B HARLEQUIN PATTERN 150mm SQUAREPOTTERY TILES

D 100mm UNEQUAL SIDED TESSELLATEDTILE

PLAIN CONCRETE WITH ROUNDED EDGE(TYPICALLY PAINTED RED) NOT SHOWN

230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate

SINGLE POSTS SYMMETRICAL ABOUT DOOR AND WINDOW(SINGLE FRONTED AND ROW COTTAGES)

SINGLE POSTS SYMMETRICAL ABOUT DOORS AND WINDOWS(DOUBLE FRONTED COTTAGES AND MAISONETTES)

DOUBLE POSTS SYMMETRICAL ABOUT DOOR AND WINDOW(LARGER VILLAS)



page 5


of 5

existing galv roof

800








A

B

C


A

B

CD

A

B

5

A





230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate






page 5


of 5

existing galv roof

800








A

B

C


A

B

CD

A

B

5

A





230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate






page 5


of 5

existing galv roof

800








A

B

C


A

B

CD

A

B

5

A





230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate






page 5


of 5

existing galv roof

800








A

B

C


A

B

CD

A

B

5

A





230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate






page 5


of 5

existing galv roof

800








A

B

C


A

B

CD

A

B

5

A





230mm cantbricks

300mm slate

300mm slate







HERITAGE TECHNICAL NOTES

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