Herbal Technology

HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONSProf. A. Ravi Kumar M.Pharm., Ph.DHEAD OF DEPARTMENTPHARMACOGNOSYTOPIC:HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONS

1.Introduction 1.Introduction 2.Classification 2.Classification A. Skin cosmeticsA. Skin cosmetics• CreamCream• Lip balmLip balm• PowderPowder• Lotion & LinimentLotion & Liniment• Face packFace pack• Deodorant & antiperspirantDeodorant & antiperspirant• Bath preparationBath preparationB.Hair cosmeticsB.Hair cosmetics• ShampooShampoo

C. Tooth cosmetics• Mouth wash• DentifricesD. Nail preparationE. Shaving preparationsF. Foot preparations

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONDefinition of cosmetic:Definition of cosmetic: Cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be Cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the appearance.appearance.HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:Cosmetics containing an active ingredient obtained from plant origin. Objectives:To enhance the general appearance of face and other body parts to minimize the skin defects to a considerable extentPsychological, social and clinical application.

The main function of this covering is to protect body, eliminate waste material & regulate body temperature.

CreamsCreamssemi-solid emulsions that is mixtures of oil and water

Uses of creamsUses of creams Ideal characteristicIdeal characteristicProtect the skin Non toxicRetention of moisture Easily spreadsCleansing Remains stable Emollient effects Not too hygroscopic As barrier with sunscreens Easy to remove

1.1. According to emulsion phaseAccording to emulsion phase W/O creamsW/O creams

Eg: Cold cream, Emollient cream O/W creamsO/W creams

Eg: Shaving cream, foundation cream, Vanishing cream

2. According to functional aspect2. According to functional aspect• Cold & cleansing creams• Night & Nourishing creams• Vanishing & Foundation creams• All –purpose cream • Others : Anti-acne, anti-wrinkle cream

Invented by GalenGalen: Galen's cold cream was based on beeswax and water, also containing olive oil and rose petals for softness and scent.It is an emulsion of water and certain fats (W/O)Normally following base are used:Normally following base are used:Almond oil, white bees wax Borax (used as emulsifier),Rose waterMethod of preparation:Method of preparation:Dissolve borax in hot rose water.Melt various waxes together keeping the temp. about 70C.Mix both the oil & water phase at same temp. with constant stirring.Mix without heat for 1 hrs &when cool (45-50C), add perfumeFor example: (Red apple extract)

o/w Creamso/w CreamsWhen applied to the skin leave an almost invisible layer on it.Produce emollient and moisturizing effect.Method:Method:•Melt stearic acid & lanolin. Mix water, glycerine, extract & triethanolamine &warm to same temp. as that of melted stearic acid and lanolin. Mix with continuous stirring.• Add preservative &perfume. Mix them thoroughly in order to obtain a uniform product

vanishing cream:vanishing cream:Stearic acid, Glycerin, Lanolin, Triethanolamine, Natural jojoba extract, Preservative, Water, perfume.

It is non greasy &provides nourishment & protection to the skin.Example: Ingredients:Aloe vera (Nourishes & moisturizes the skin)Indian Kino tree, Ashwaganda (Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)(Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)

Gotu Kola (May increases the production of collagen)Other Ingredients:Liquid paraffin, Glycerin,BHT,Sodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol,Methylparaben,etc.

Nourishes the skin all night with revitalizers, nutrients & moisturizers.

It provides moisture to the skin by preventing evaporation.

Composition:Pyrus malus (Crab Apple): Cooling, Soothing and KeratolyticTriticum sativum (Wheat): Preventing black heads.Citrus limon (Lemon):It protects the skin

from oxidative damageLilium polyphyllum (White Lily): Astringent

Solanum lycopersicum (Tomato):Antioxidant

A great moisturizer for dry skin that helps heal, repair, and maintain soft, supple skin.Increasing skin hydration (by reducing evaporation)

Method of formulation:Heat coconut oil & beeswax until wax melt. Stir & cool slowly add the slowly add the aloe vera aloe vera gel a drop at a time.gel a drop at a time.Continue stirring & when the mixture thickens, add the vitamin oil & chamomile extract.

IngredientsAloe vera gel Chamomile extractVitamin ECoconut oilBeeswax

It acts as a superficial disease that affects the hair follicles and oil secreting glands of the skin.

Composition actions

Lens culinaris(Lentil) Reduce inflammation Silk cotton tree AstringentSaurashtri(Alum) EmollientVitex negundo Anti-inflammatory

Sunscreen cream are those topical preparations which protect the skin by harmful sunlight either by scatter sunlight or to absorb erythemogenic radiations. Examples Examples Aloe veraFat-soluble walnut extractBees waxHydrogenated ricinus oil

It delays wrinkles and smoothes fine lines.Regular use prevents oxidative skin damage.

Composition Action

Aloe vera antibacterial & antifungal

Papaver rhoeas emollient

Vitis vinifera nourish the skin

Solanum lycopersicum antioxidant

Santalum album alleviate itching and inflammation.

It inhibits the formation of melanin. It reduces pigmentation. Composition Action

Rosa centifolia improves complexion

Citrus reticulata removes blemishes

Aloe vera moisturizes and softens skin.

Rubia cordifolia reduces freckles

Santalum album reduces irritation

Sympiocos racemosa lightens color

It prevents chapping, drying & cracking of the lips.It contains a natural UV filter and Vit.E which nourishes, tones and softens the lips.

Composition Action

Ricinus communis

relieve various inflammatory conditions of the skin & mucus membrane

Cocos nucifera emollient (softening the lips)

Triticum sativum prevents loss of moisture from the skin (vit.E)

Wrightia tinctoria

Anti bacterial , astringent

Daucus carota sunscreen & fragrance

LotionA lotion is a low- to medium-viscosity, topical preparation intended for application to unbroken skin; creams and gels have a higher viscosity. It is applied without friction.Most lotions are oil-in-water emulsions.Lotions can be used for the delivery to the skin of medications such as:Antibiotics ,Antiseptics ,Antifungal ,Corticosteroids ,Anti-acne agents Soothing, smoothing, moisturizing or protective agents.

Various types of lotions are

Hand and body lotions

Skin toning lotions

Astringent lotions

Medicated lotions

The raw materials used in making the lotion includesThe raw materials used in making the lotion includes

Natural gums (family- Leguminosae)

Gum acacia (Acacia arabica)

Guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobus)

Tragacanth (Astragalus gummifer)

Natural astringents

Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

Rosemary oil (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Natural antiseptic

Haldi (Curcuma longa)

Eucalyptous oil

Neem

Natural preservatives Artemisia afraPteronia incana

Cooling agents

Menthol (Mentha piperata)

Water, Glycerin and other humectants, Alcohol, perfume

Face packs It stimulates the blood circulation, tone the muscles and maintain the elasticity of the skin.Also they draw out impurities from the pores.

Composition Action

Azadirachta indica antibacterial , helps in controlling acne and pimples

Fuller's earth anti-inflammatory

Curcuma longa antiseptic

COSMETICS FOR HAIRShampoo: liquid, creamy or gel-like • Cleansing of hair without leaving the hair greasy & dry.• Not produce irritation in eye, Contain an effective germicide,

fungicide or antiseptic, Easy to remove• Reduce the degree of itching, scaling and inflammationIngredients use in shampoos:A.Surfactants:

Anionic surfactants superior foaming properties and low cost E.g Alkyl benzene sulphonatesCationic surfactants- They produce good foam, leave hair lustrous and have good. E.g. Cetyl pyridinum saltsAmphoteric surfactants-E.g. n-alkyl amino acidsgood cleansing and foaming properties

B) Conditioning agent: Mineral oil, lanolin C) Viscosity modifiers: NaCl, Natural gums

– Thickening of shampooD) Opacifying agents: TiO2

E) Sequestering agent: EDTAF) Preservatives: Methyl/propyl parabensG) Perfumes:H) Antimicrobials- Thymol

Classified according to function as:– Protein shampoo– Anti dandruff shampoo– Conditioning shampoo

Protein shampoo

USES:• Shikakai and ushira- soften the hair• Musk roof- promotes hair growth• Soapnut- hair from excessive oil secretion, dirt, dust• Fenugreek- provide natural proteins

Contents Weight Acacia concinna (shikakai) 47.60 mg

Vetiveria zizanioids (ushira) 6.95 mg

Nardostachys jatamansi (musk root)

6.95 mg

Sapindus mukorossi (soap nut) 2.08 mg

Trigonella foenum-gracum (fenugreek)

2.08 mg

Water up to 1 ml

Anti-dandruff shampoo

Significance of each extract:• Rusmari- destroys dandruff• Neem- protects from germs• Tulsi- protects from germs• Shikakai- cleanses and conditions hair• Amla- strengtns hair, Henna- provides rich and healthy shine

Contents Weight Rosmarinus officinalis (rusmari) 103 mg

Azadirachta indica (neem) 5.15 mg

Ocimum sanctum (tulsi) 5.15 mg

Acacia concinna (shikakai) 5.15 mg

Phylsanthus emblica (amla) 5.15 mg

Lawsonia inermis (henna) 5.15 mg

Water up to 5 ml

To enhance untangling of wet hair and improve manageability of both wet and hair.

Formulation of conditioning shampoo

Conditioning shampoo

Contents Weight Cicer arietinumCicer arietinum (Chick pea) (Chick pea) 60 mg

Sapindus mukorossiSapindus mukorossi (Ritha) (Ritha) 60 mg

Jasminum officinaleJasminum officinale (Jasmine) (Jasmine) 40 mg

Eclipta albaEclipta alba (Thistle) (Thistle) 15 mg

HAIR COLORANTS

Hair dye should possess following characteristics:It should be non-injurious to the hair shaftIt should possess no systemic toxic effect or irritation when applied to the hairIt should have affinity for hair keratin

Some herbs used to color the hair include: •Eclipta alba: Whole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeingWhole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeing•Juglans regia:Leaves and haul of fruits for hair dyeing•Lawsonia inermis (henna), •Acacia katechu, •Emblica officinalis (amla)•Tea leaves

TOOTH PREPARATIONS

To prevent and control of teeth disorders, which include dentifrices and mouthwashDENTIFRICES:The basic requirements of a dentifrice are-1. To remove food debris, plaque and stain.2. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation.3. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use.

BOTANICALBOTANICAL ACTIVITY

Azadirachta indica (Neem) Protects gums from bacteriaEugenia caryophyllus(Laung) Clove oil is used as analgesic

in tooth pain

Glycyrrhiza glabra(mulethi) It cures mouth ulcers

Cinnamomum zeylanicum(dalchini)

Cinnamon oil is used as flavouring agent

Mentha piperita(pudina) flavoring agent and has mild antiseptic properties

Various botanicals used in preparation of dentifrices are

TOOTH PASTETo remove adherent soiling matter from a hard surface with minimal damage

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY % ROLE

Calcium pyrophosphate 38 abrasive

stannous pyrophosphate 2 abrasive

Stannous fluoride 0.4 fluoride

Glycerin 25 humectant

Sorbitol 12.5 humectant

Irish moss 1.5 Binders

Sodium saccharin 0.05 Sweetners

Sodium lauryl sulphate 2 Surfactners

Water 100 Solvent

Flavor Qs flavour

METHOD OF FORMULATION

•The hydration of the gelling agent•Dispersion of the abrasive in gel•To add the active ingredients late in the mixing cycle•Add the surface active agent•Flavor last of all.For example – 1. Herbal toothpaste1. Herbal toothpasteIngredients :Calcium carbonate,sorbitol, fennel (Foeniculum vulgare),clove bud (Eugenia caryophyllus),Neem leaf(azadirachta indica),and neem bark,peppermint (mentha piperita),essential oils,ascorbic acid (vitamin C)

Mouth washesTo give a healthier and fresher mouth and to provide some assurance of good breath odour.

Ingredients: Deionized water, certified organic aloe barbadensis gel, super critical extracts of mentha piperata, azadirachta indica leaf and bark, Eugenia caryophilous, ascorbic acid, xylitol, potassium sorbate

Nail preparationsNail Enamels:

Nitrocellulose

Solvent, like toluene

Pigments: minerals or organic lakes

Plasticizer like DEP, camphor

Resin for film strength and flexibility: Toluene Sulfonamide

Formaldehyde,

Nail cream- Nails can become brittle due to dehydration. Nail creams contain an emmolient like olive oil and lanolin

Shaving preparations Shaving cream:

A good shaving cream should have following characteristics:It must give an abundant latherIt must remain soft in tubeIt must tacky to adhere to both brush & face

For example:Stearic acid, Mineral oil, Beeswax, Menthol, Soap flakes, Water

After shave preparationsTo relieve slight irritation after shaving.To recover injury after shaving.Humectants and emollientsHumectants and emollients-like glycerol and sorbitol etcCooling effect of skin is achieved by adding mentholAstringency is achieved by adding witch hazel extract and zincwitch hazel extract and zincEg. Nivea after shave lotion Nivea after shave lotion Contains: chamomilechamomile, vitamin E, and provitamin B5. Calms skin helps to prevent irritations.

Foot preparationBacteria staphylococcus epidermidis giving rise to bad odors.

Composition Action Shoera robusta (sal tree) AntimicrobialCurcuma longa (turmeric)

Antiseptic

Trigonella foenum graceum (fenugreek)

Arevents boils, ulcers

Zingiber officinale (ginger)

Aubifacient