Heraldic Silk Painting

Heraldic Silk PaintingDominvs Tiberivs Ivlivs Rvfvs

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Heraldic Silk Painting

• Period Technique?• Designing the Standard• Materials• Preparing the Silk• Resist• Dye• Heat Setting

Is it Period?• Serti painting is not believed

to be period but it is economical and perfect for making brilliant that float in minimal breeze.

• The serti (corral) technique uses resists. Medieval silk painting used paint rather than dye and the silk used was much heavier than habotai silk.

• So, while not a strictly period technique….it works!

• Stirler, G. (n.d.). Silk Painting. Gutenberg School of Scribes. Retrieved May 10, 2011, from http://gutenbergscribes.chivalrysports.com/silk-1.shtml

Designing the Standard

• Hrynkiw’s site provides great research and example pics of what was done in period.

Hrynkiw, D. (1999, March 11). Medieval Flags and Banners. Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://donna.hrynkiw.net/sca/flags/index.html

Designing the Standard

• Another good resource on standard and flag heraldry

• Flying Heraldry, The Heraldry Society of Scotland - UK Heraldry. (n.d.). . Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://www.heraldry-scotland.co.uk/flyingherald.html

Designing the Standard• Terms: There are many types of medieval flags.

A look at the Hrynkiw page details the various types. The long, flowing types of heraldic display that I usually make are standards.

• On the standard itself, there is a ‘fly’ and a ‘hoist’.

• The hoist usually notes the bearer’s kingdom or nation. The body of the standard shows the arms/device, badge/badges and livery colors of the bearer. A standard is read from the hoist to the fly, in descending order.

• Most standards I make use, in order; The Eastern Tyger, arms, mottos, badges/armies.

• Some kingdoms have laws on how big a standard may be for each rank of gentle. The East does not.

Hightower, B. (2006, October 6). Silk Pennants. Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://hightowercrossbows.com/pennanthowto.htm

Materials• Materials available at Dharmatrading.com• Helpful people, tutorials on the site helpful

To make a Standard

• 8 – 10oz Habotai silk scarf blank (22x90 inches is a good start)

• Water-based gutta (resist)

• Applicator bottles and tips

• Dye-na-Flo colors• Brushes (many work,

Sumi work brilliantly)

• Frame and hooks (or wood, clamps, safety pins and tacks)

• Iron• Dryer• (optional) Q-Tips, rubbing

alcohol, water, silk cord• Set-up tends to run about

$100 or so, but can be done cheaper if MacGyver-ish

Step 1: Create the design and Transfer it to the Silk

• Rinse and let silk dry. • Iron it to remove

wrinkles or creases.• Lay it out on a long

table.• 8 – 10 oz habotai silk

scarves work great: Just trace from the image onto the silk

• I often draw my designs on large sheets of contractor’s paper.

• I use a light pencil for designs-transfer. I’ve experimented with alcohol and fabric pens, but they tend to bleed and affect dye-retention.

• Don’t use a sharpie!

Step 2: The Frame

• There are several options for frames. The key is to stretch the silk as tightly as it can get.

• Bottom right shows a wooden frame, using safety pins and tacks to stretch the silk.

• My knight’s wife uses a staple gun!

• I use the Easy Fix frame, above right.

Step 3: Applying the Resist

• Apply the gutta resist (using an applicator bottle and appropriate tip)

• Trace the pencil lines to create a solid barrier – the silk dye will wick along the fabric, but stop where it meets a solid gutta line

• Learn to draw in mid-air• Allow 30 minutes – 2

hours for the gutta to dry

Stirler, G. (n.d.). Silk Painting. Gutenberg School of Scribes. Retrieved May 10, 2011, from http://gutenbergscribes.chivalrysports.com/silk-1.shtml

Examples of Gutta-Stage

Step 4: Apply the dye• Do all of one color at a time. Start with the lighter

colors and move to darker ones. I tend to work inside to outside. Mistakes will happen – it’ll be on a pole!

• The most difficult part of dying is doing large sections -- especially large fields with detailed charges. The silk will show where the edge of a color dries, leaving water marks where the borders of brush strokes are. Work from one side to the other, quickly.

• Work quickly and accurately. Don’t paint up to the gutta line. The silk dye will wick, so there should be a ½ to ¼ inch between the brush and the gutta line.

• The color shows on both sides and is pretty bright. Dye-na-Flow is a dye that acts like a paint. It’s a good compromise between color and ease of use.

• The dye must be completely dry before removing the silk from the frame. Depending on the weather, it could be a few hours to a few days.

More Process Examples

Finished Gonfalon

Achievement of Arms for Tiberivs Ivlivs Rvfvs

Gonfalon for HG Andreas Eisfalke von Ulm

Step 5: Heat Setting the Dye and Resist


• Silk blanks have finished edges – exceedingly handy.

• For edges that will be trimmed, use a thick line of resist. It acts as a permanent rip-stop.

Heat Setting

• The dye and resist require heat treatment to become permanent.

• Using an iron, apply heat to the silk to set the gutta.

• Once resist is set (a few minutes, moving, over all areas), lightly rinse the silk and put the standard in the dryer for about 45 – 60 minutes

Edges

Advanced Techniques

• Different Resists• Wet-on-Wet• Alcohol/Wet• Salt• No-Flow• Dark on Light• Light on Dark


Salt

Alcohol Shading

Shading Effects and Alcohol-in-Dye

Additional Uses of the Techniques

ReferencesFlying Heraldry, The Heraldry Society of Scotland - UK Heraldry. (n.d.). . Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://www.heraldry-scotland.co.uk/flyingherald.html

Hightower, B. (2006, October 6). Silk Pennants. Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://hightowercrossbows.com/pennanthowto.htm

Hrynkiw, D. (1999, March 11). Medieval Flags and Banners. Retrieved May 9, 2011, from http://donna.hrynkiw.net/sca/flags/index.html


http://www.heraldry-scotland.co.uk/flyingherald.html

http://hightowercrossbows.com/pennanthowto.htm

http://donna.hrynkiw.net/sca/flags/index.html

Heraldic Silk Painting

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