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the o f f i c i a l m ag a z i n e f or h e athrow | w i n t er
2 0 10
T r a v e l l e rheaThrow
present perfect heathrow gift guide house party the top places
to gather friends & family euro zone Business in madrid &
paris
pLus: heston Blumenthals alps + copenhagen + whisky & port +
foodies edinBurgh
celebrating the history of Moscow and st petersburg
to russia with Love
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All ights detailed are direct
routes from Heathrow, except
where specied.
Throughout the magazine
weve shown, where relevant,
the Airport Price together
with the High Street price*.
Savings do not apply to
products for which no price
comparison is displayed.
Where you see products
at an Airport Price, all
passengers, ying to all
destinations, can buy at
these prices, apart from
selected liquor lines which
are only available to those
ying outside the EU.
Passengers travelling to nal
destinations outside the EU
may be requested to pay tax
on purchases on arrival at your
destination and/or if you bring
them back with you when
returning to the UK.
Go to heathrow.com for the
most up-to-date shopping
information and contact
details for individual stores.
All prices correct at time of
going to press. Some products
featured in this magazine are
of limited availability in airport
stores. Contact stores in
advance to check availability.
Keep track of the
WorldPoints you can earn
at the airport: go to
baaworldpoints.com.
Heathrow Traveller is published on behalf of
BAA Airports Ltd by Show Media Ltd, 1-2
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reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is
prohibited without prior written permission
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Views expressed are not necessarily the
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goods advertised are not necessarily
endorsed by BAA Airports Ltd. All prices and
information correct at time of going to press.
Where there are price variations by terminal
or location the highest is shown.
* Savings in World Duty Free stores are
compared to the notional UK high street price,
this being the average of prices from
a survey of several high street stores. Details
of these stores and individual prices are
available on request.
W e l c o m e
This festive edition of
Heathrow Traveller is all
about celebrating family
and spending time with
the ones you love.
From cosying up reside in a
warm and welcoming hotel,
to heading for some sun (or
snow) in our group holiday
round-up, there are plenty of
ways to make sure you spend
the holidays with the right
people, in the right place.
Heathrow Traveller s top
destination this issue is
Russia, subject of an
in-depth look into the
architectural, cultural and
gourmet highlights of
Moscow and St Petersburg.
Not forgetting that
Christmas is about giving, we
have nine pages of perfect
presents for every person in
your life, with even a designer
collar for the dog.
Enjoy festive avours
with Heston Blumenthals
paean to gourmet Italian
skiing and our celebration of
Christmas food available at
Heathrow no need to miss
out on turkey and Brussels
sprouts this year, wherever
youre spending the holidays.
Lucy Teasdale, Editor
Shopping
& Travel
info
publiShed by
ShoW media lTd 020 3222 0101
www.showmedia.net
Editor Lucy Teasdale
Art Director Martin Perry
Associate Editor Chris Madigan
Designer Hillary Jayne
Sub Editors Sarah Evans, Gill Wing
Picture Editor Jim Taylor
Staff Writer Sarah Deeks
Intern Holly Whittaker
Heathrow Marketing Julia Gillam
Editorial Director
Joanne Glasbey
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
For advertising enquiries:
Julia Pasaron 020 8741 8967
Colour reproduction
FMG wearefmg.com
Printing
Southern Print wyndeham.co.uk 4 CoRNERS
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30
63
60
Danny BirD
C o n t e n t s
travel JournalNews from the airport and
around the world
12 Travel news
The babymoon phenomenon,
ice skating trips, an insiders
Copenhagen and more
18 Gourmet travel
The excellence of Edinburghs
food: from chippies to
Michelin-starred chefs
20 Home comforts
Cosy hotels around the world
to snuggle up in this winter
22 Drinks
On the banks of the Douro
river, Porto is a beautiful city
whose history is entwined
with its famous port wine
24 Entertainment
England cricketer ian Bells
DVDs and games for the
ashes tour; plus new books
DestinationThis seasons big travel ideas
26 The big picture
a British photographer, a
British extreme skier and a
cli in British Columbia
29 Postcard from
Heston Blumenthal, whos
found a favourite restaurant
in the shadow of Mont Blanc
30 Share options
if youre planning a big
gathering of family or friends,
here are 15 of the worlds
most characterful and
spacious properties to rent
36 Comment
How alain de Botton decided
he should stop lecturing
people about boring
architectural nostalgia and
build modern holiday homes
38 The Russian fascination
The vivid history and vivacious
contemporary style of
Moscow and St Petersburg
42 Moving map
Celebrate good times around
the planet, from Christmas
markets in Germany to the
new year in China
the loungeSeasonal special: your guide to
great gift ideas at Heathrow
46 Luxe lover
Stylish watches and jewellery,
gorgeous accessories and
famous fashion names
48 Sun seeker
Presents for those heading for
the beach: e-books, shades,
fragrances and bags
50 On the move
For frequent iers: smart
businesswear, cool gadgets
and knock-em-dead shoes
52 Family traveller
Gifts for the whole clan: kids,
teens, Grandma and not
forgetting Mum and Dad
City sprintTips and accoutrements for
the business traveller
54 Madrid
The Spanish capital shrugs o
the maana myth to become
one of Europes most dynamic
business destinations
59 The new Paris
Many of the top rms in the
city of lights have moved to
the suburbs but Parisian
style has followed them
60 Sloping o
Sneak in a cheeky ski weekend
on a work trip to Zrich
61 Whisky galore
invaluable tips for choosing
the right dram for you
DeparturesLife at the airport and key
Heathrow information
63 Travel product awards
The winners as voted for by
Heathrows passengers
64 Airport news
Find out how you can get
even more out of your
journey through Heathrow
66 A day in the life
of one of the key gures who
help Heathrow run smoothly
68 Food & drink
a guide to the Christmas
foodie treats available at
the airport right now
70 Maps & directory
Getting around Heathrow
74 Final call
a famous face captured by
Heathrows resident snapper
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12
T r av e l J o u r n a l d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s h o t e
l s
s k i i n j a pa n / a l p i n e c o c k ta i l s / n e w y e a
r , n e w y o u
n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e G l ob e
All Nippon Airways, British Airways, Japan
Airlines and Virgin AIrways y to Tokyo, for
connections to Hokkaido
British Airways and Swiss International
Airlines y direct to Zurich British Airways ies direct to Mexico
City
AprS-SkI IN ST ANToN
fIrST-eVer AlpINe CoCkTAIl week
Award-winning spirit distiller Sipsmith
and luxury travel operator Scott Dunn
are launching the rst Alpine Cocktail
Week, 20-27 March 2011. After a day
on the slopes, choose from Fire & Ice,
the Hot Shot, O-Piste Gimlet or Winter
Negroni. From 1,715 per person which
includes accommodation at Chalet
Bodensee in St Anton and return British
Airways ights from Heathrow to Zurich.
BoVey CASTle BooTCAMp
luxury weIgHT-loSS reTreAT
Repenting for Christmas indulgence will
be easier than ever from January, with
the launch of the Bovey Castle Weight
Loss Academy (+44-844 474 0088 ;
weightlossacademy.com), led by the
personal trainer and bestselling author
Simon Lovell and dietician and the
psychotherapist Karen Chugg. The
400 acres of Dartmoor National Park
provide a dramatic and inspiring
backdrop to kick-start a new you for
2011. Fees start from 1,997.
uNITed NATIoNS ApproVed food
CulTure IN A TorTIllA
Mexican food has become the rst
national cuisine to be named a UNESCO
Intangible Heritage of Humanity the
cultural version of a World Heritage
Site as it combines Spanish, Aztec
and Mayan inuences. Its no surprise
to Heathrow Traveller in the last issue,
chef Valentine Warner called Mexico
Citys markets eyepopping. Cox & Kings
(coxandkings.co.uk) runs tours of the
country, culture and food to the fore.
perfeCT powder IN JApAN
HokkAIdo SkI-IN SkI-ouT reSorT
For a guaranteed white winter, savvy
skiers are heading to Green Leaf Niseko
Village in Hokkaido, Japan, for YTL Hotels
Perfect Powder Package. Enjoy views
of Mount Yotei and the Mount Annupuri
slopes from your suite in this chic,
family-friendly, ski-in ski-out resort.
The rooftop garden, Altitude, serves
cocktails from sunset to sunrise.
From 255 per person for two nights,
1 December 2010 to 30 April 2011.
s c e n t s o f o c c a s i o n Lu x u r y p e r f ume emp o r i
um J o M a l o n e h a s o p e ne d a s t a n d -a l o n e s t o r
e i n Te r m i n a l 4 . Aw a k e n y o u r s e n s e s a n d m i x
y o u r o w n s i g n a t u r e
s c e n t a t i t s b r a n d -n ew Ta s t i n g B a r .
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C o p e n h a g e nThe lowdown on the Danish capital
[ T H E I N S I D E R ]
T r av e l J o u r n a l D E S T I N aT I o N I D E a S H o T E
l S
w o N D E R f u l , w o N D E R f u l C o p E N H a g E N / b a
b y m o o N S
14
getty im
ages
Words Emily Mathieson, of Cond Nast Traveller, and Lydia
Gard
Pregnancy has only one sure
outcome friends, family and
complete strangers will subject
you to a relentless torrent of
unsought opinions. and yet no
one tells you the most pressing
fact you will never oat idly in an
innity pool, book a mid-morning
spa treatment or snooze with
the sunday supplements again.
However, ever keen to ll a niche,
luxury hotels are ahead of the
curve, cannily oering babymoon
packages for expectant couples in
need of a bit of pre-emptive R&R.
During the second trimester,
long haul is a doddle (unlike travel
with a toddler in tow). Just be sure
to observe one rule: short transfers.
Chic, seven-bedroom sri Lankan
hotel Reef Villa is just 40 minutes
south of Colombo. Herbal-oil oral
baths and facials for her; energising
massages for him; an exquisite
suite in lush, tropical gardens for
both (from 230 per room per
night, reefvilla.com). taj exotica
Resort & spa, in the maldives (just
15 minutes by speedboat from
male) epitomises relaxation and
romance. Private dining on the
beach, check. sunset cruise, tick.
Couple massage? Oh, go on then
(from 1,800 for 3 nights, tajhotels.
com). in Cape town (read: no jet lag),
Camps Bay Retreats mother-to-be
package includes a massage to
combat tension and heavy legs, a
facial and a mani-pedi, meaning
plenty of time to contemplate your
(growing) navel (from 1,950pp for
7 nights, toescapeto.com). at Parrot
Cay, on the Caribbean islands of
turks and Caicos, a three-night hit
of instant relaxation includes a
pre-natal massage and a private
yoga session for two (from 1,878
for 3 nights, parrotcay.como.bz).
[ t r a v e l t r e n d ]
f r o m h e r e t o m at e r n i t yThe hotels offering
pampering pregnancy packages
The Nimb (nimb.dk; doubles from 294). opened
in the Tivoli Gardens in 2008 and quickly became
one of Europes top hotels, with a Michelin-
starred restaurant and plenty of Scandi-cool
glam. Christian Abenth is head concierge
a I R p o R T S C R E E N I N g F o l l o w i n g T 5 s r e c e
n t a p p e a r a n c e o n T h e A p p r e n t i c e ,
H e a t h r o w n o w p l a y s h o s t t o T- M o b i l e s l a
t e s t f l a s h - m o b s p e c t a c l e , f e a t u r i n g 3 0
0
p e r f o r m e r s w e l c o m i n g v i s i t o r s t o L o n
d o n w i t h s o n g ( y o u t u b e . c o m / l i f e s f o r s h
a r i n g) .
British Airways and SAS y to Copenhagen
Which is the citys best restaurant?
Noma (noma.dk), but its almost impossible to
get a table. instead, try Fiskebaren (skebaren.
dk), an excellent sh restaurant, or mother
(mother.dk).
Wheres good for a fancy drink?
Ruby (rby.dk) theres no sign outside, so it has
a speakeasy feel. 1105 (1105.dk) and salon 39
(salon39.dk) are also good for cocktails.
Where can we get a retail x?
Casa (casashop.dk) sells Danish homeware.
For cool fashion from independent designers,
head to the Kbmagergade and gothersgade.
Where can you get the best view of the city?
Climb up the spiral spire of the Church of Our
saviour (vorfrelserskirke.dk).
What should every visitor do at least once?
Walk along the harbour all the way from
Christiansborg to the Little mermaid statue.
And a favourite local activity?
Cycling out to islands Brygge (iceland Quay).
Where can we escape the tourists?
in Nrrebro theres a street called
Jaegersborggade, which has great art shops.
What about a day out of the city?
Head up the coast to the Louisiana museum
of modern art (louisiana.dk).
Tell us a secret
Not many visitors know about the Copenhagen
Winter Jazz Festival (28 Jan6 Feb; jazz.dk).
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16
To book your ight and hotel to any of these destinations go to
heathrow.com/y
Words Janette Griffiths
v a n c o u v e r / o t t o w a / q u b e c / c o l o r a d o /
n e w y o r k
T r av e l J o u r n a l I c e S k a t I n g
OTTAWAIn the capital, Ottawa,
the locals even skate to
work on the Rideau
Canal, the worlds
longest man-made
skating trail. In winter,
the canal looks like a
modern-day version of
one of those old Dutch
paintings stalls along
the ice sell food and
drink, the turrets of the
parliament providing a
theatrical backdrop.
COLORADOIf Canada, has the
longest trail, their
American neighbours
werent going to be
outdone. Keystone Lake,
at the centre of one of
the most popular ski
resorts in Colorado,
spans ve acres and is
the biggest Zamboni-
maintained (smoothed
with an ice resurfacing
machine), outdoor rink in
North America.
vAnCOuveRI wish I had a river to
skate away on, goes
Canadian Joni Mitchells
plaintive song, written
when stuck in hot and
sticky LA one Christmas.
These days she lives in
Vancouver, British
Columbia, from where
a cable car takes you
up Grouse Mountain
to a skating rink so
picturesque, it is like
a Christmas card.
neW YORKSkating against a wintry
Manhattan backdrop has
been a romantic rite of
passage for lovers both
on and o screen for
years Central Parks
Wollman Rink featured in
Love Story, while, in a
modern classic, Elf,
besotted Buddy (Will
Ferrell) and Jovie (Zooey
Deschanel) skate at the
Rockefeller Center on
their rst date.
QuBeCFrench Canadians often
celebrate ice and snow,
and at no time more
enthusiastically than
during the Qubecs
Winter Carnival (28
January to 13 February).
Locals and visitors
skate on the Patinoire
dYouville, which is
surrounded by 17th-
and 18th-century
buildings straight out
of a fairy tale.
Ice work if you can get itFrozen North American destinations
where youll need no
encouragement to get your skates on
f o o d S a f a r I H e a t h r o w r e s t a u r a n t g i r a
f f e ( t 1 , t 5 ) l a u n c h e s t h e
g i r a f f e f a m i l y c o o k b o o k : g l o b a l f a m i
l y f o o d ( 1 4 . 9 9 a t w H S m i t h
i n a l l t e r m i n a l s ) . e x p e c t h e a l t h y r e c
i p e s f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d .
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*Yours with the purchase of any two or more Clinique products,
one to be skin care. One gift per client, while stocks last.
Available from 25 November until 11 December 2010.
Take home your Beauty Gift.* Today.
Visit Clinique in any Heathrow Terminal for your Skin
Consultation and receive your free* Gift.
-
Venison with chanterelles
at Atrium. Below: Finest
Scottish smoked salmon
18
T r av e l J o u r n a l G o u r m e t t r av e l
G r e at s c o t s c u i s i n e / f e s t i v e f e a s t s
{ t h e a u t h e n t i c t a s t e o f . . . }
Edinburgh As we approach Hogmanay,Scotlands fantastic
produce,and a city full of passionatechefs, comes into its own
British Airways and bmi y direct to Edinburgh
The clich about Scottish cuisine
goes that its all just deep-fried
haggis and Mars bars, with maybe
smoked salmon for the posh.
yet Edinburgh boasts more Michelin-
starred restaurants than any British city
barring London in fact, ve more than
Wales and Northern ireland combined.
That said, the city is far from ashamed
of a sh supper woe betide anyone
who suggests they do not make the
best in the world. Even Martin Wishart,
the rst of those Michelin-starred chefs,
is a fan, applying his seasonal, locally
sourced ingredients mantra by saying
that a poke o chips is at its best in the
autumn, when the tatties are freshest.
For the best sh supper, residents
of the New Town swear by Lalba DOro
(Henderson Street); while, for deep-
fried haggis, chocolate bars and pizzas,
head late to Caf Piccante (Broughton
Street), which is licensed and has a DJ.
youll have spotted that italian names
dominate. Mary Contini is a food writer
and historian, as well as director of
Valvona & Crolla (valvonacrolla.co.uk)
deli, caf, Edinburgh institution. She
explains: Many italians emigrated in
the 1890s to escape poverty and
conscription. They were shepherds who
made ricotta, so knew about dairy, and,
when driving sheep to market,
theyd deep-fry food.
Those skills led them
to set up ice cream
and shnchip shops
in Scotland.
One of the ports
of entry was Leith.
it has developed like many docklands,
declining with the shipping industry
in the 20th century, before rising again
as the location of luxury ats and
waterside restaurants such as Martin
Wishart (martin-wishart.co.uk).
i use classic French techniques with
local ingredients, he says. The historic
connection with France,
through Mary Queen of
Scots, has meant
Scottish cooking
has used a lot of
braising, casseroles,
and terminology
such as a gigot of lamb even though
we pronounce it jiggut, not zhigoh.
The auld alliance is evident in dishes
such as roast grouse larmagnac en
cocotte, with braised cabbage, salsify,
pomme cocotte and sauce albert,
though perhaps the inuence is more
family Roux than Bonnie Prince Charlie.
One of Wisharts signature dishes is
smoked salmon with soused cucumber
and konbu vinegar, which, despite the
Japanese ingredients, is a throwback
to his childhood. My father grew up in
the Hebrides and, every Christmas,
my cousins in Stornoway would send
-
Martin Wishart
54 The Shore, Leith; 0131 553 3557
Michelin-starred food served in a warm,
friendly, fun atmosphere.
Valvona & Crolla (above)
19 Elm Row; 0131 556 6066
Delicious coee and cakes, best breakfasts
in town and one of Britains best delis
Atrium
10 Cambridge Street; 0131 228 8882
No-fuss Scottish dishes made with skill
Rhubarb
Priesteld Road, 0131 225 1333
Sumptuous dishes, decadent surroundings
B e s t o f t h e B u r G h
Heathrow Traveller 19
gETTy iM
agES
C o C o a - l o C oc h o c o h o l i c s n o l o n G e rn e e d
f o r e G o t h e i r f i xw h i l e i n f o r e i G n c l i m e
s
Words Holly Whittaker
Words Chris Madigan
Recchiuti Confections, San Francisco, USA
Michael Recchiutis unique creations include
Lemon Verbena and Tarragon grapefruit.
recchiuti.com
BA, American Airlines, Virgin Atlanic
Chocolate Research Facility, Singapore
This hip shop-cum-caf takes chocolate
combinations seriously. its asian avours
include ginseng, red bean, and black
sesame. chocolateresearchfacility.com
BA, Qantas, Singapore Airlines
The Abastos Market, Oaxaca, Mexico
Dip churros into a cup of dark-chocolate
champurrado at one of the artisan chocolate
stalls at Oaxacas lively abastos Market.
British Airways
a whole smoked salmon to us. Now
i have wild salmon sent down and get
it smoked the way i remember it, with
that really intense avour.
another Scottish classic is cullen
skink, which youll nd on the menu
at atrium (atriumrestaurant.co.uk).
Executive chef Neil Forbes says, its a
one-pot wonder of smoked haddock,
leeks, potatoes, milk, cream and herbs.
Forbes sources ingredients from
dozens of specialist suppliers. atriums
Perthshire beef breeder also supplies
Caf St Honor (cafesthonore.com).
its braised Scotch beef blade is
slow-cooked till it is as tender as a steak.
youll see plenty of game on most
Edinburgh menus. after the glorious
12th of august, until spring, theres a
ready supply of pheasant, partridge
and grouse. Lasting king of Scotland
cuisine, venison is a favourite at The
Witchery, on the Royal Mile (thewitchery.
com), a favourite among those wanting
traditional dishes such as haggis (an
underrated, spicy and oaty treat).
The Witcherys sister restaurant,
Rhubarb, at the Prestoneld House hotel
(prestoneld.com) on the edge of the
city, also serves game miniature rabbit
pies, followed by braised haunch and
roast loin of roe deer. The restaurant is
so named because this was the rst
place in Britain where rhubarb seeds
from China were planted in the 18th
century. The resultant crumble is both
sweet and sharp, with a crunchy
shortbread topping.
another dessert, cranachan
raspberries, toasted oats, honey and
whisky-laced cream could be the most
dening Scottish dish, not least because
it appeals to the local sweet tooth.
Valvonna & Crolla recently opened a caf
inside Jenners department store on
Princes Street. Mary Contini says, The
idea was to showcase Scottish foods.
and what do customers get most excited
about? Soor plooms [sour plum boiled
sweets] and Tunnocks tea cakes.
However, Edinburgh has become a
foodie haven in the past decade. if youre
staying in a self-catered apartment,
shop at the farmers market (Saturdays,
9am-2pm) on Castle Terrace. Theres
been a market there for 1,000 years,
says Forbes, and it still looks medieval
pigs roasting, oysters and game for
sale and me and my sta carrying sides
of mutton back to the restaurant!
He will be one of the chefs cooking
live at the Foodies at Christmas festival
(assembly Rooms, 3-5 December,
foodiesfestival.com). itll be all about
keeping our traditions alive, he says.
How to prepare game, make your own
oatcakes to eat with cheese, and so on.
Martin Wishart is sharing his passion,
too. He has a state-of-the-art cookery
school (cookschool.co.uk), with small
classes for one-to-one attention. im
delighted Edinburgh has so many great
chefs now, he says, before turning to
inspect some freshly delivered ceps.HT
Stay at The Sheraton Grand Hotel
(sheratonedinburgh.co.uk). From 179 a
night. The Knight Residence (theknight
residence.co.uk) oers ve-star serviced
apartments from 189 a night.
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120
As the nights draw in, followthe lure of a crackling re,
warming food and a soft bedto one of these cosy hotels
{ h o t e l s }
Homecomforts
Words Lotte Jeffs
T r av e l J o u r n a l w i n t e r b o l t h o l e s
pa r i s / b e i j i n g / p o r t l a n d / b e r l i n / d u b
l i n / s t o c k h o l m
3. Ace HoTel, PorTlAnd,
UniTed sTATes
This eco-chic hotel is gloriously rough
around the edges and all the better
for it. Vintage, re-used, pre-loved
whatever you call it, the Ace has style
in spades. From re-upholstered sofas to
army-surplus gear, it makes great use
of recycled objects, setting them amid
contemporary art to eclectic eect.
Dine in the Clyde Common restaurant,
which serves good, casual food.
acehotel.com/portland
American Airlines, continental,
delta, United Airlines
1. HoTel dU PeTiT MoUlin,
PAris, FrAnce
Designer Christian Lacroixs fabulously
eccentric hotel in a 17th-century former
boulangerie in Paris is as amboyant
as it is charming. Its 17 rooms are each
decorated to represent a dierent facet
of the local area, and are rich in warm
colours, luxurious textures and unique
prints. The hotels wood-panelled
caf-bar is the ideal spot to sip a hot
chocolate after a day spent browsing
Le Marais boutiques.
hotelpetitmoulinparis.com
Air France, British Airways
2. dUGe coUrTyArd BoUTiqUe HoTel,
BeijinG, cHinA
This hideaway in the heart of Beijing
is a sanctuary of chic Chinese elegance
that mixes modern designer touches
with ancient traditions. Its tiny White
Russian bar sits snugly in the central
courtyard, emitting an irresistible glow
on winter evenings, and beckoning
guests with one of its eponymous
cocktails. This really is one of the most
intimate, stylish and well-serviced
boutique hotels in all Beijing.
dugecourtyard.com
Air china, British Airways
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23
654
Heathrow Traveller 21
1. Htel du Petit Moulin, Paris
2. Duge Courtyard Boutique
Hotel, Beijing 3. Ace Hotel,
Portland 4. Ackselhaus,
Berlin 5. Dylan Hotel, Dublin
6. Hotel J, Stockholm
4. AckselHAUs, Berlin, GerMAny
Live like a local in Prenzlauer Berg,
one of Berlins coolest areas. The eight
apartments, bedsits and rooms at
Ackselhaus, a 19th-century townhouse,
are thematically furnished. Choose
Afrika Delux for a cosy winter stay
its all wooden oorboards, animal-print
rugs, heavy drapes, soft lighting and
earthy tones. Tuck in to a hearty
breakfast in the Club del Mar restaurant,
which overlooks the hotels pretty,
secluded rear garden.
ackelhaus.de
British Airways, lufthansa
5. dylAn HoTel, dUBlin, irelAnd
With its high ceilings, dramatic furniture
and eur-de-lis ourishes, this Dublin
hotspot might seem a little on the grand
side, but thanks to its laidback Irish
attitude, the Dylan is a luxurious place
for a cosy winter city break. Curl up next
to the re in the library or indulge in the
ambience of the candlelit restaurant.
For a real home from home, snuggle
under the covers, order popcorn and ice
cream from room service and watch a
movie on the large plasma-screen TV.
dylan.ie
Aer lingus, bmi
6. HoTel j, sTockHolM, sweden
Escape the hustle and bustle at this
calm, simply sophisticated Swedish
design hotel. With a magnicent view
over Stockholm harbour, the J is just a
short bus, car, or best boat ride from
all the downtown action. Its 45 rooms
are decorated in a boat-house style
that looks as if all its missing is a couple
of Ralph Lauren models. All have
great views and the larger ones have
balconies. While away the hours by the
re, admiring the panoramic sea vistas.
eng.hotelj.com
British Airways, sAs
-
22
Fortied town
t h e c i t y w i t h a p a s s i o n f o r p o r t
T r av e l J o u r n a l p o r t o
The discovery that adding brandy to wine meant that you could
ship it around theworld for ever sealed Portos reputation as the
birthplace of the ruby liquid
Dows, cockburns emblazoned on
their roof. meanwhile, on the riverbank
are moored several barcos rabelos
boats that traditionally transported
barrels of port from the vineyards, now
used for sightseeing trips.
port is made from a blend of grapes
including the tiny, inky-black touriga
Nacional, the fruity Franca and vibrant,
fresh tinta roriz, the portuguese name
for tempranillo all of which thrive in
the remote, arid Upper Douro. any plant
that grows there has to be robust, and
the vines that can hack it produce low
yields that result in formidable wines.
that such raried wines became a
favourite british digestif is down to a
discovery of disputed origin that adding
brandy to wine would allow it to keep
longer, so it could be shipped to britain,
an ally in wars with France and favoured
trading partner. as far back as 1670,
Arrival in Porto doesnt leave much
room for doubt that the port wine
trade is still important to this city.
checking into your hotel, you may well
be oered a glass of the ruby liquid.
and then, when you climb torre dos
clrigos, the highest tower in portugal,
and look across the Douro river, you
can see dozens of warehouses, each
with one of the famous names of the
port trade Grahams, Sandemans,
[ p o r t ]
-
Heathrow Traveller 23
photolibrary.com
burgoyne & Jackson imported wool from
England, sending back wine and olive
oil. that company became Warres, and,
along with Grahams and Dows, was
then acquired by the Symington family.
White port is rarely sold in the UK.
it can be as sweet as its red siblings (the
sweetest is known as lagrimas), but
more interesting is extra dry, served in
portugal as an apritif, mixed with tonic
or soda and served with ice and a slice.
the reds are divided into bottle- and
wood-aged ports. the latter spend only
a couple of years maturing in barrels
before being bottled, unltered. in the
best years, they are declared vintages
by the producers. they need to mature
in the bottle for at least 15 years (and
can keep improving for up to 30), before
being decanted (and drunk within a few
days). outside vintage years, individual
estates can produce a single quinta
vintage, which can be almost as good.
Wood-aged ports divide into two
further groups: ruby and tawny. these
names are based on their colour, which
depends on the length of time spent in
oak casks. after, on average, three years
of ageing, the ruby ports are younger
and fruitier, while aged tawnies range
from caramel-nutty 10-year-olds to
marmalady 20-year-olds. then there
are late-bottled vintages richer, more
spicy and intense than other wood-aged
ports but softer than most vintage ports.
its worth trying dierent houses
ports to nd the style that suits you.
For example, Dows has a drier character
compared to Warres lighter, elegant,
perfumed notes. and theres no better
place to explore the varieties than at a
restaurant on the river: smart D tonho
(dtonho.com), which has had Eusbio
and Jacques chirac as customers, or
laid-back little armazm do Sal.
the history of the port trade is
bound to gure strongly in any visit
to porto. at Grahams port lodge
(grahamsportlodge.com), you can nd
out about the winemaking process (for
example, the traditional foot-stomping
in granite troughs versus modern robotic
imitators, which are better partly
because they dont drink on the job) or
simply gaze in awe at the rows of casks
and vats as well as centuries-old vintage
bottles inside the peaceful cave.
the World heritage Site city centre is
packed with reminders of portos
trading heritage. Steep, cobbled streets
and alleys have a crumbling grandeur,
but there are grand edices such as the
19th-century trade hall, palcio bolsa,
and Gustave Eiels maria pia bridge, too.
here for the weekend? Serralves
museum of contemporary art (serralves.
pt) has a sculpture garden with works
by Dan Graham, richard Serra and claes
oldenburg, while the casa da msica
(casadamusica.com), designed by rem
Koolhaas, is a great venue for fado. and,
under the ownership of hip portuguese
hotel group lagrimas, hotel infante
Sagres (slh.com) has thrown o its
royalty-encrusted past to become a
great boutique hideaway.
port is throwing o its ladies-to-
the-drawing-room, pass-to-the-right,
no-touching-the-table, stilton-veined
stuness. With tastings that pair ports
with organic dark chocolates, modern
packaging and young tawnies made for
chilling, it seems set for a new era of
appreciation from a more demanding
clientele than Seventies portnlemon
drinkers. as for porto, it will remain a city
where a cab driver, rather than discuss
the best European cup-winning side,
will declare, the best vintage was
denitely 1977. HT
turn to portSix of the best fromWorld Duty Free
1. Dows LBV, 14.99
for 100cl
2. Dows 10-year-
old tawny, 22.99
for 100cl
3. Grahams LBV,
14.99 for 100cl
4. Warres Warrior,
11.99 for 100cl
5. Kopke 10-year-old
port, 12.49 for 75cl
until 11 January 2011
6. Kopke vintage port,
34.99 for 75cl
A glass or two of vintage
port is a prerequisite
on any visit to Porto
Words Chris Madigan
TAP Air Portugal ies to Porto
1
2
3 5
4 6
-
24
T r av e l J o u r n a l e n t e r ta i n m e n t
i a n B e l l s t r av e l t u n e s / g a m e s / D v D B o x s
e t s
1. Come On (Lets Go Tonight), The Promise by Bruce Springsteen,
8.50 2. The Immortals, Come Around Sundown
by Kings Of Leon, 8.50 3. Youll Never Walk Alone, Viva Elvis The
Album, 7.65 4. Blaze Of Glory, Greatest Hits by
Bon Jovi, 8.50 5. With A Little Help From My Friends, 19621966
(The Red Album) by The Beatles, 8.50
Box sets and games
are important to
Ian Bell when
hes on tour
5 tunes to inspire teamwork
Whether youre facingAussie fast bowlers or theStairmaster with a
friend,these will get you singingfrom the same songsheet
[ t r a v e l e n t e r t a i n m e n t ]
REX FEATURES
interview Giles Milton, sports editor of Zoo magazine
An Ashes series is the
highlight of any english
cricketers career and
i couldnt wait to get on
the plane to Australia.
Who wouldnt want to
travel the world and get
to play cricket for a living?
But youre away for
months on end, so there are
a few essentials to pack.
I denitely never leave home
without my Only Fools and
Horses box set. I travel to
some far-ung places, and
its great to have something
so English to remind you of
home. Wherever you are
South Africa, Sri Lanka or
Bangladesh Del Boy and
Rodders will transport you
back. Even if youre stuck in
a tense test match on the
subcontinent, you need
something to get you
laughing and take your mind
o the game, and Del Boy
falling through the bar
denitely does that.
Box sets are a bit of an
addiction on tour and all the
team bring them along to
swap. With so much
downtime, you need
something to get your teeth
into and a series is always
better than a lm. On the last
tour in Bangladesh, CSI box
sets [right] were a favourite
of mine. I also really got into
Ian BellThe England batsmans essential kit for
the Ashes series Down Under
Entourage. Its about a
tight-knit group of young
guys in the Hollywood
showbiz bubble, living out
of hotels I can assure you
its a far cry from our life on
tour, though.
Wherever were playing,
we have a games room, so
the lads all pack their PSPs
and PS3s. I dont bring
one, but always end up
pinching somebody
elses controller and
getting into four-way
tournaments on Fifa
11. All the lads fancy
their chances, but
Jonathan Trotts the man to
beat he swears by his
Xbox! Im a keen golfer, and
I love Tiger Woods PGA Tour
11. Then again, when youre
somewhere like Australia,
you dont want to spend too
much time indoors, so Ive
packed my golf clubs to play
for real. I took my laptop, too,
mainly for putting together
playlists. On the way to a
morning session, the lads all
have their iPods on you
need something to get you
in the mood. I listen to The
Enemy, Ne-Yo, Scouting For
Girls, Tinie Tempah, Usher
a complete mixture!
Of course, theres always
some last-minute shopping
to do at Heathrow: a few
DVDs, magazines, papers
and electronic gadgets for
the ight. I usually nd
myself rushing to buy some
noise-reducing headphones.
I always manage to break
mine, but on a long-haul
ight I nd them an
absolute essential. HT
Ian Bell is playing
in the Ashes
Series with
the Adidas
Incurza
bat. For
stockists,
call 0870
240 4204
-
Heathrow Traveller 25
Books&
dvds
Call of Duty: Black ops
Xbox 360/PS3, 38.28 Having covered WWII and imaginedmodern day
conicts, CoD turns to theplausible Cold War activities of spooks
inCuba and Laos. New features include wager matches, where you
gamble online money on winning battles with just one bullet in the
chamber.
Game
Book/AnoTHer nigHT
Before CHriSTmAS
Carol Ann Duy, 4.99
The 1822 classic The
Night Before Christmas
has been rewritten for
the 21st century by one
of Britains best-loved
poets. This new version
is full of Carol Ann Duys
characteristic wit and
warmth, as well as being
beautifully illustrated.
DVD/mAD men SeASon 3
Lions gate Home
entertainment, 25.53
The third season of this
award-winning show
about the Sixties
advertising world moves
into 1963, which, of
course, builds to the
assassination of JFK. As
always, the devil is in the
detail style mavens will
want to watch for the
retro fashion tips alone.
Book/BeyonD THe
CrASH
gordon Brown, 14.99
Published 5 December
This heavyweight tome
by the former PM, long
admired for his grasp of
economic issues, oers a
unique perspective on
the global nancial crisis,
as well as innovative
ideas he believes will
help create a sound
economic future.
DVD/fAmiLy guy
SeASon 9
20th Century fox Home
entertainment, 15.31
More hilarious episodes
from the hugely popular
animated TV series
lampooning American
culture and the human
condition. Marijuana,
religion, evil monkeys,
older women the
dysfunctional Grin
family and their martini-
sipping dog, Brian, tackle
all this and more.
Book/THe ConfeSSion
John grisham, 13.99
In the epic new legal
thriller, an innocent man
is days from execution
and only a guilty man can
save him. But how can he
convince the lawyers,
judges and politicians?
DVD/THe PACifiC
Warner Home Video,
25.52
From the producers of
Band of Brothers, The
Pacic tracks the real-life
journeys of three US
marines across the vast
canvas of the Pacic
Theatre during World
War II from their rst
clash with the Japanese
in the haunted jungles of
Guadalcanal to their
triumphant, yet uneasy,
return home after VJ Day.
Book/rumPoLe AT
CHriSTmAS
John mortimer, 8.99
Pantos, puds and a Santa
who isnt quite what he
seems to be In these
seven Christmas stories,
previously published only
in magazines, the call of
justice leads ageing
London barrister Horace
Rumpole one of
Britains best loved comic
characters as far aeld
as a health farm in
Norfolk and as near to
home as a pantomime at
the Tufnell Park Empire.
DVD/inBeTWeenerS
SerieS 3
Channel 4 DVD, 12.75
One of the best British
comedies of the past
decade, this multi-
award-winning show
follows four friends as
they navigate their way
through sixth form with
their hormones running
riot. Neither the coolest
kids in school nor the
ultimate nerds, the four
inbetweeners try their
best to improve their
social standing and
impress girls. The
humour can be utterly
gross, but the characters
are likeable with it.
Book/CHriSTmAS WiTH
TuCker
greg kincaid, 6.99
George, the 12-year-old
hero of this childrens
story, is up against it:
his fathers died, his
mothers left him with
his grandparents on their
farm, and hes reluctantly
inherited a dog, Tucker,
from the alcoholic next
door. After a rocky start,
Tucker soon becomes his
best friend and gives him
the strength to take on
his challenges.
DVDs, games and CDs from HMV. All these books are available in a
buy one, get one half price deal at WHSmith & WHSmith
Bookshops
reviews Gill Wing
-
DESTINATION
26
T h e b i g P i c T u r e : c o a s T M o u n T a i n s , c a n
a d a
Leading British action photographer Ross Woodhall took this shot
in mid-May while he was heli-skiing in the mountains around
Pemberton, outside Whistler in British Columbia. Ross says, We had
sat out a storm for six days before the weather cleared. When we
went up, we found a metre of fresh snow. I was with Jim Adlington,
a British Salomon team skier, when this rock appeared in the
helicopter windscreen we knew immediately it would make a good
shot. He actually did this jump a few times, pulling the iron cross
trick before landing, and hiking up the 100m or so each time. I
photographed it with various lenses, but I thought this shot, on a
20mm wide angle, gave the best view of exactly how big the jump
was. Of course, in order to shoot this, I got to snowboard down the
mountain myself and it was one of the best powder days Ive ever
had.
Russia Global festivals Heston Blumenthal on skis Family holiday
rentals
Air Canada and British Airways y direct to Vancouver
-
Heathrow Traveller 27
-
Heathrow Traveller 29
4 Corners im
ages; piCture it now. interview: amy raphael
BA, bmi and Swiss International Airlines y to Geneva, and BA and
Alitalia y to Milan
The chef scales the Italian Alps in
search of good food and wine
Hestons love forhaute cuisine
D e s t i n at i o n P o s t c a r d H e s t o n B l u m e n t H
a lHeston Blumenthal revolutionised high-end dining with his
scientic, theatrical and, at times, off-the-wall cooking. The Fat
Duck is one of only four UK restaurants that boasts three Michelin
stars. On 1 December, he will open Dinner, his rst London
restaurant, at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel
Ive never been very good
at relaxing on holiday with
my family I would always
write every morning.
then, three years ago, i did
an interview with Ski Sunday
and discovered Courmayeur,
a small resort on the italian
side of mont Blanc, where
the milanese and torinese
go for Christmas. i went back
with my wife and the three
kids who are 17, 15 and
12 and, for the rst time,
didnt nd myself thinking
about work on holiday.
whats fantastic about
the resort is the fact that
there are 28 mountain
restaurants. they are mostly
small, with around 50
covers, and are run by
husband-and-wife
teams. But the
food is great.
i love the idea
that you can
have a really
delicious bowl of pasta or a
fantastic pizza with a good
bottle of wine. and the wine
really is great over there.
last year, we had
Christmas dinner at a place
right near the top of the
mountain called la maison
vieille di giacomo. we skied
in the morning and stopped
for lunch: spaghetti with
bottarga, or cured sh roe,
followed by a stued
turkey dish. and, of course,
some amazing wine.
we also went up there
one evening. giacomo
himself met us in
town complete with
snow mobiles for the
half-hour drive, and hed
lined the path up to the
restaurant with candles,
which was just beautiful.
giacomo serves sicilian
specialities such as maialino
allo spiedo, or roast suckling
pig. its cooked in the woods
and served on a whacking
great big piece of bark with
salad. really simple, really
good produce, cooked
really well. its a shame my
italian is limited to grazie
and pochissimo. But still,
Courmayeur is incredibly
friendly, even for those
with poor italian.
ive been skiing for the past
three years and, with lessons
every day, im pretty good
now. when i started, i had
my elbows out and my poles
were all over the place. i saw
a video of myself skiing and
thought i looked awful, so
i used it as motivation! id say
im intermediate now. im not
great on moguls, im not
brilliant in powder. But, on
a medium-to-dicult slope
thats not too icy, i think
i look alright.
im not risk averse but nor
am i a risk taker; im probably
somewhere between the
two. i dont want to look like
a traditional Brit on the ski
slope. i prefer going fast and
like to look like i have a bit of
style. if i feel im showing my
nationality by not being as
good as the italians, i tend
to slow down. i cant wait
to get back to Courmayeur
this Christmas. HT
-
30 Words Gemma Bowes, Lydia Westwood
Share optionsIf youre planning a holiday for a group of
friends
or family, renting a villa that promises a little
luxury can only pay dividends. Here are some of
the best from around the world, starting with
the far-ung and fabulous
sPeCiaL
-
Villa PantulanElite Havens, Bali
Villa Pantulan is a contemporary, ve-bedroom
house in the small village of Lodtunduh, near the
town of Ubud, Balis cultural capital, famed for its
art, food and temples (above). Rooms are arranged
within four pavilions and include a stylish yoga/
dining platform and an artists studio. The bedrooms
have vast wooden doors that slide back to reveal the
garden with its pool, lily pond and waterfall, and the
palm trees and paddy elds beyond. The sta of 12
ensure a ve-star experience akin to that of a hotel.
From 568 per room per night (sleeps 10), including
breakfast. elitehavensbali.com
Heathrow Traveller 31
D e s t i n a t i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S
Dar MusiqueMarrakech, Morocco
Dar Musique is a wonderful
bohemian bolthole. Potter among
the cacti on the rooftop terrace
and gaze at the Atlas mountains
blurring the horizon, recline in
the cool, tiled lounge after a
hard days bartering in the nearby
Djemaa el-Fna square, or take a
dip in the palm-fringed courtyard
pool. The house has four lavish
bedrooms, decorated in jewel-
box colours. It also has its own
hammam, with masseurs on hand
to knead out your kinks, while,
in the kitchen, your personal
chef will create authentic
Moroccan tagines to your taste.
From 1,000 per week (sleeps 8).
darmusique.com
eden Rock VillasKoh Samui, Thailand
Each of the three Eden Rock Villas
has a curvaceous pool with sea
views and its own interior style.
The Rice House is a representation
of a Balinese rice barn, with three
oors under an arching thatched
roof, and an outdoor dining space.
The Pineapple House, meanwhile,
has intricate wood carvings, and
incorporates a huge rock into
the architecture of one of its
bedrooms. However, for real wow
factor, opt for the most luxurious,
the Eden Rock its suites have
four-posters,sunken Jacuzzi
baths and rain showers.
From 474 per night for Eden
Rock (sleeps 8) and 221 for
Rice (sleeps 4) and Pineapple
(sleeps 6). edenrockvilla.com
Hotel sorayaGoa, India
Located in Goa (above), near
the stunning Morjim, Ashwem
and Mandrem beaches and
surrounded by rice paddies, lies
Hotel Soraya. Actually a private
rental property, it is a typical
high-ceilinged, Portuguese-era
villa, restored and stued with
antiques. There is also a separate
bungalow. The verandas of the
main house look out over the pool
and the acre of mango-lled and
jungly gardens and are the perfect
spot from which to monitor the
passing trac: cows, tropical
birds and the occasional elephant.
Main house from 110 per night
(sleeps 8), bungalow (sleeps 2)
from 35. hotelsorayagoa.comXXXXXXXXXXX
-
32
Three Sixty HouseShompole, Kenya
No one could argue location isnt key at the Three
Sixty House it stands on the edge of the Rift Valley
and oers uninterrupted views of the savannah all
the way to Tanzania. Like a very upmarket barefoot-
chic villa, its thatched roof is supported by gnarled
trunks. It may count a team of sta, a helipad and a
puddle-shaped pool surrounded by day beds and
lit up by candles at night among its luxuries, but, in
keeping with its eco credentials, its owners actively
support local socio-economic and wildlife projects.
From 496 per person per night (sleeps 4), including
full board and game drives. ecoluxury.com
Snowmass Club Aspen, USA
Every skier wants to tick Aspen
o their must-ski list at some
point, and those who want to
do it in style should consider the
Snowmass Club, a collection of
cosy, luxury villas at the foot
of Snowmass Mountain. Guests
have access to a spa with four
swimming pools, a Jacuzzi, a gym
and athletics club, tennis and golf,
plus a bar and restaurant, while,
just minutes away, are the lifts
up to 91 trails, plus gladed tree
runs, half-pipes and fun parks.
The villas are as comfortable
as they are well-appointed and
each has a deck oering great
creek and mountain views.
From 6,322 per week
(sleeps 10). akvillas.com
Tulum Beach
HousesTulum, Mexico
Just a few paces from talcum-
powder ne sand, emerald waves
perfect for surng, hammocks
strung between palms and a
backdrop of jungle, the three
thatched Tulum Beach Houses
on Mexicos Caribbean coast are
idyllically located. Their decor
draws on Mexican folk art and
traditional striped rugs and
colourful fabrics abound. Behla
Villa is the largest its master
bedroom has a private deck with
a cushioned snug and a bathroom
with ocean views from the tub.
From 477 per night (sleeps 8),
including breakfast. i-escape.com
Mount CinnamonMirissa, Sri Lanka
Mount Cinnamon is a stunning,
high-design residence at the
summit of the Mirissa Hills
plantation, home to the worlds
only cinnamon museum. Its three
doubles and one single bedroom
are arranged on one level and
separated by a courtyard with
a pool into which frangipani
trees toss their sweet-scented
confetti. The open-plan dining
area features contemporary Sri
Lankan art and sculpture and has
views down to the white-sand
and palm-tree fringed beaches of
Weligama Bay and Mirissa below.
From 443 per night (sleeps 8)
mirissahills.com
-
A family lunch, the
Southern European way,
eaten slowly and alfresco
Heathrow Traveller 33
For information about ights to all destinations, visit
heathrow.com
D e S T i n a T i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S
UK andEurope
4 CoRNERS, GETTy
Villa MichaelaTuscany
During a crisp, clear Tuscan
winter, there is nothing better
than being holed up in an elegant
villa with roaring res, especially
if it has been refurbished with
exquisite attention to detail.
Villa Michaelas bedrooms are
furnished with antiques and
enormous upholstered beds,
and walls have original frescoes.
South of Lucca, and with Pisa,
the Versilian coast and Forte dei
Marmi a 30-minute drive away, it
is located in excellent walking
territory. The formal dining room
overlooks an enclosed courtyard
and lemon groves, but it is the
rustic kitchen that is the hive of
mealtime activity. The basement
is a kids paradise, with a cinema
and a games room equipped with
billiard table, so it is conceivable
to spend an entire week without
bumping into your family at all.
From 22,000 per week
(sleeps 24), including breakfast
and housekeeping services.
ariellasvillas.com
SP
eC
iaL
-
34
sarsden ManorOxfordshire
Staying at Sarsden Manor is like
being invited to house-sit for
wealthy, stylish relatives only
these ones have exceptional
taste. From the contemporary
art that adorns the hallway to the
chic decor and designer touches,
this is an unusually modern
country pile, and perfect for
intimate parties or family events.
In deepest rural Oxfordshire,
the great outdoors here oers
biking, riding, clay-pigeon
shooting and plenty of walking,
yet the Manor is close enough
to London and Heathrow for
convenience. With a cinema,
games room and childrens
playroom, theres a space for
everyone to have fun.
From 4,900 per 3-night
weekend, 8,400 per week
(sleeps 20 in the main house
and 4 in a cottage). sarsden
manor.uniquehomestays.com
and a state-of-the-art home
cinema is oset by traditional
elements such as the high,
wood-beamed ceilings and
agstone oors. The indoor
gym and heated pool are ideal
for chilly days, and two replaces
promise cosy evenings, with or
without retsina.
From 10,000 per week,
long weekends on request
(sleeps 13), including daily
cleaning, private host and
travel-assistance/concierge
service. whitekeyvillas.com
Villa CondessaPeloponnese, Greece
For total seclusion and privacy,
hole up at this seven-bedroom
villa set in a 400-acre estate
propped on the hillside above the
village of Epidavros and encircled
by private forest. With wonderful
views across the valley and
nearby mountains, and acres of
olive groves to wander through,
you could spend a happy week
meandering and simply absorbing
nature. Inside, the eclectic mix
of antique pieces, comfy sofas
sP
eC
iaL
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Heathrow Traveller 35
For information about ights to all destinations, visit
heathrow.com
D e s t i n a t i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S
Chalet CashmereMegve, France
Chalet Cashmere is a rm favourite with those who
value style as well as substance. Just a few minutes
from the town centre and ski lifts, it has panoramic
views of the mountains. Four bedrooms, three
with en-suite bathrooms and two with balconies,
surround a spacious sitting room and kitchen.
The nal bedroom, designed for kids, has four bunk
beds. The spa, with massage and steam rooms to
combat aprs-ski aches, is the killer blow.
From 15,000 per week (sleeps 12), including
champagne reception, concierge, 4x4 vehicle
and 5 massage treatments. luxuryskichalets.eu
Villa sanchaAndalucia, Spain
This traditional, whitewashed
farmhouse is bursting with
character features, but has been
modernised to cater to modern
needs, with Wi-Fi, Bose sound
systems and under-oor heating.
Set in the spectacular Andalucian
countryside and the Grazalema
Natural Park (pictured), Villa
Sancha is set in seven acres of
fruit and olive trees. All this
escapism, yet its a mere ve-
minute drive to Ronda. The decor
is chic, the bedrooms comfortable
and the living room perfect for
reside drinks. The pool is solar
heated its sunny 320 days a
year, so a safe bet even in winter.
From 3,314 per week (sleeps 9)
akvillas.com
auchinleck HouseAyrshire, Scotland
This imposing neo-Classical house
was built around 1760 for Lord
Auchinleck, father of biographer
James Boswell, and has been
extensively restored by the
Landmark Trust. It has four twin
bedrooms, two doubles and a
single. On entering the property,
you pass beneath a carved
inscription of a line by Horace:
Whatever you seek is here, in this
remote place, if only you have a
good, rm mind. If what you seek
is a spectacular retreat, then it
stands true.
From 958 per 3-night weekend,
1,273 per week (sleeps 13).
landmarktrust.org.uk
Ballinacurra House
Kinsale, Ireland
If you want to play your trump
card for a special event, or you
simply have an enormous family,
award-winning Ballinacurra
House is far and away the
most exclusive venue for a large
gathering. It has extensive
grounds, with a magnicent
walled garden, a croquet lawn,
childrens playground, helipads,
forest, river estuary and boat
jetty. A stones throw from Cork,
culinary capital Kinsale and the
famous Old Head golf course,
theres no end of things to do.
From 4,795 per night, 31,000
per week (sleeps 44), including
chef. ballinacurra.com
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36
Holiday in a home created by one
of the worlds top architects
Better by design
Illustration Samuel Rhodes
D e s t i n at i o n c o m m e n t a l a i n d e b o t t o nBorn
in Zrich but based in London, essayist Alain de Botton is one of
Europes foremost philosophers. In the summer of 2009, he was
Heathrows Writer in Residence, an experience that led to his book A
Week At The Airport (Prole, 8.99)
Judging by the success of
interior-design magazines
and property shows, you
might think the UK was
now as comfortable with
good contemporary
architecture as it is with
non-native food or music.
But scratch beneath the
metropolitan, London-centric
surface and you quickly
discover Britain remains
a country deeply in love
with the old and terried of
the new. Country hotels
compete among themselves
to tell us how ancient they
are; holiday cottages vaunt
that they were already in
existence when Jane Austen
was a girl. The draughty
sash window shows no
signs of retiring. Inheriting
furniture and not bothering
with plumbing continue to
function as mysterious
symbols of status.
A few years ago, I wrote
a book about architecture
critical of our nostalgia and
low expectations. It got a
healthy amount of attention,
on the back of which I was
invited to a stream of
conferences about the future
of architecture. But, one
night, returning from just
such a conference in Bristol,
I had a dark moment of the
soul. I realised that, however
pleasing it is to write a book
about an issue one feels
passionate about, the truth
is that a few exceptions
aside books dont change
anything. And I had to
acknowledge that, if I cared
so much about architecture,
writing was just a cowards
way out; the real challenge
was to build.
So, on the back of a
notepad was born a project
that ocially launches this
month: Living Architecture is
a not-for-prot organisation
that puts up houses around
the UK designed by some of
the worlds top architects
and makes these available
to the public to rent for
holidays throughout the
year. We describe it as
a Landmark Trust for
contemporary architecture.
Our dream was to allow
people to experience what
it is like to live and sleep in a
space designed by an
outstanding architectural
practice. While there are
examples of great modern
buildings in Britain, they tend
to be in places one passes
through, such as airports,
museums and oces, and
the few modern houses
that exist are almost all in
private hands and cannot be
visited. This seriously skews
discussions of architecture.
On the whole, when people
declare that they hate
modern buildings, they
are speaking not from
experience of homes, but
from a distaste of post-war
tower blocks or bland,
air-conditioned oces.
From the o, we wanted
the organisation to be
international, because
foreign architects rarely
have the chance to work in
the UK and yet do things
in ways we should learn
from. So weve used a great
Dutch rm, MVRDV, some
Norwegians called JVA and,
last but not least, the worlds
greatest architect, a Swiss
called Peter Zumthor.
The idea has been to avoid
the obvious and to place
houses in locations one
hadnt necessarily ever
thought of holidaying in and
to design rooms dierent
from those that people
know from their own homes.
We also want to keep things
accessible. Prices for a stay
start at 20 per person
per night and the buildings
themselves, while always
comfortable, are not
oputtingly grand.
The salvation of British
housing lies in raising
standards of taste. If one
considers how rapidly and
overwhelmingly this has
been achieved in cooking,
there is much to be
optimistic about. With the
right guidance, a similar
sensitivity could be
extended to domestic
buildings. My hope is
that a holiday in a Living
Architecture house will, in
a modest but determined
way, help to change the
debate about the sort of
homes we want to live in. HT
living-architecture.co.uk
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3838
Dest inat ion s t p e t e r s b u r g & m o s c o wFrom the
time of the tsars through communist rule, the KGB and queues, to
glasnost, perestroika and oligarchy, few nations have experienced
change on such as scale as Russia the perfect location for a
holiday with a historical backdrop
Words Chris Beanland
The Russian Fascination Russias two major cities have always
enjoyed a certain rivalry, yet their diverse
characters embody the essence of this vibrant yet mysterious
country
It will wander most towards
the juxtapositions inherent
in russian life. How can
one country that stretches
half way round the northern
hemisphere, spans nine time
zones and is home to more
than 140 million people
retain such a strong sense
of itself, of what it means
to be russian? How does
the brash, high-spending
present square with the
years of communism?
you would need to live
among russians for a long
time before you truly got
this mysterious nation.
But spend a week in one
of russias two main
cities, the serene and
historic imperial capital,
st Petersburg, or the
throbbing heart of new
money moscow, and youll
start to get at least a taste
of the real russia.
Russia is a giant enigma.
As you guzzle caviar and
oysters at the Taleon Club
in St Petersburg or drink
coee and nibble on
dainty pastries at Caf
Pushkins Konditerskaya
in Moscow, your mind
will inevitably wander.
-
4 Corners, AlAmy
Heathrow Traveller 39
British Airways and Rossiya Airlines y direct to St
Petersburg
Heathrow Traveller 39
Opposite: a typical
onion-domed church in
the Golden Ring region
to the north-east of
Moscow. Above: the
Jordan Staircase in
the Winter Palace. Left:
a production of the
ballet Sleeping Beauty
in St Petersburg
St Petersburg History andhigh culture
2011 marks 20 years since
the Ussr was broken up and
russia began a new chapter.
But even though it is the
recent past that weighs
heavy on our perceptions,
a much older country
pre-dates the soviet Union.
st Petersburg is the place
to sip from this historical
chalice. It became the capital
in 1712 and, with only a short
break, was the nerve centre
of imperial power until 1918.
There is an air of the
respectable and civilised
about st Petersburg that
sets it apart from its bolshier
sister city. Its proximity to
scandinavia and the Baltic
states makes it russias
window on the world youll
nd tourists speaking all
languages in the globally
famous Hermitage museum
(hermitagemuseum.org).
The tsars were famously
open to inuences from
around the world, which is
quite at odds with the notion
of the enigmatic Fifties and
sixties Ussr as a closed
shop. Walk the canals that
drained the marshy estuary
dont they look Dutch?
Peter the Great even named
the city in the Dutch style
sankt Pieter Burkt originally.
The architecture of the
great churches and palaces,
meanwhile, nods to Austrian
and scandinavian inuences.
st Petersburg jealously
guards its high culture. on the
150th anniversary of the
acclaimed mariinsky Theatre
(mariinsky.com) this year,
Prime minister Putin came
to watch a performance of
Swan Lake. seeing a ballet
or opera here is one of the
highlights of any visit.
look for the st Petersburg
youve seen on celluloid, too.
scenes from the 1997 lm of
Tolstoys epic, Anna Karenina,
starring sophie marceau in
the titular role, were lmed in
ve-star hotel. A favourite
haunt of Tchaikovsky, Anna
Pavlova and maxim Gorky,
it still plays host to the global
great and good. Dine at the
hip leningrad restaurant
(11a Kamennoostrovsky
Prospekt), named after the
citys 20th-century alter ego.
It oers old staples such as
pelmeni (dumplings) and
mushroom julienne alongside
miso soup and foie gras the
cuisine of the new russia.
the Winter Palace (hermitage
museum.org). The same
elaborate imperial drawing
rooms were also the setting
for the sublime 2002 lm
Russian Ark. Using 2,000
actors, it depicted characters
both real and imaginary at
dierent periods of the citys
300-year-old history.
stay, if you can stretch to
it, at the imposing Grand
Hotel europe (grandhotel
europe.com), russias rst
-
WIN a holiday to MoscowVisit one of the worlds greatest
capitals, where old-world
orthodoxy meets audacious free enterprise. Enter this
fantastic
competition and explore the Kremlin and discover Moscows
imperial treasures. The winner and a companion will y
economy
with bmi from Heathrow to Moscow, staying two nights at the
exclusive Lotte Hotel. See heathrow.com/competitions for full
details
40
Getty Im
aGes
Left: the Moscow
Metro. Below: the
citys St Basils
cathedral
British Airways, bmi and Aeroot y direct to Moscow
Dest inat ion r U S S I A
Moscow Science, spies,
new money
and nights out
New Russia hits you the
moment you land in moscow.
expansion, refurbishment
and complete rebuilding are
turning the three previously
dilapidated airports into
21st-century gateways for
this go-ahead global city.
But, before you enter this
brave new world, sink your
teeth into pre-perestroika
moscow. the Kremlin may
have been the ocial seat
of political power, but
many believe the real
clout lay with the KGB,
now renamed the FsB.
Putin is a KGB alumnus and
the organisation ruthlessly
helped the Communist
Party keep control at home.
the KGB museum (12 Ulitsa
Bolshaia Lubyanka) has
a number of fascinating
exhibits, including miniature
cameras and guns inside
hollowed-out brollies. Visit
Gorky Park to relive the chill
of the eponymous Cold War
book (and subsequent lm)
by martin Cruz smith about
espionage, which was
inspired by moscows most
famous green lung.
the metro, as well as
getting you around the
tourist attractions, is
a feast for the eyes in
its own right murals
and elaborate decor
abound. the city
planners were so taken with
Piccadilly Circus tube station
when they visited London in
the thirties, they designed
their stations in the same
barrel-ceilinged style.
scientic achievement
has always been fetishised
in moscow. the 90-year-old
spiral shukhov Radio tower
(37 Shabolovskaya Street)
and the titanium-clad
monument to the Conquerors
of space (Cosmonauts Alley)
are both staggering sights.
the latter is pure sixties
socialist pomp, and exhibits
in the museum at its base
include the capsule in which
Gagarin orbited the earth.
Patriarshiye Prudy
(Patriarchs Ponds) is one
of the areas that has
contributed to moscows
price-hike infamy. Forbes
magazine recently judged
it the worlds fourth most
expensive city, with a coee
averaging 6. Beryozka
(20 Malaya Bronnaya Street),
which sells Givenchy bags
to oligarchs girlfriends,
is just one of the lavish
boutiques in a city where,
not so long ago, people
shivered all day in queues
outside the state-run GUm
department store in Red
square, only to nd rows of
bare shelves.
New arbat avenue is
another gentried zone. the
Lotte Hotel (lottehotel.com)
has just opened here,
oering some of the most
luxurious suites in town.
If you really want to push the
boat out, ditch strogano
and eat eurasian fusion food
with champagne at Vanilla
(1/9 Ostozhenka Street).
moscows hip nightlife is
becoming a draw, too.
solyanka (Solyanka 11) has
hosted DJ sets by the
Unabombers, Bent, and
metro area. along with air
and Cube, it hosted the
cutting-edge mIGZ Festival
in september. Before
Glasnost, this kind
of partying would have
been unthinkable. HT
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H E AT H R O W T R AV E L L E R p R O m O T i O n
Heathrow Traveller 41
Hilton Madrid airports
avant-garde design
and excellent service
standards have made it
the rst choice for both
national and international
business travellers.
Space totalling 1,700sqm
is available for conferences,
conventions and meetings
of all types. Fifteen working
areas are equipped with
state-of-the-art technology,
including instant translation
systems, video-conference
equipment and Wi-Fi.
The hotel oers 284
spacious and modern rooms,
all with a designated work
area supported by the latest
multimedia technology.
Guests who choose to stay
Award-winning service:Hilton Madrid Airport
Two years after its opening, Hilton Madrid Airport has been
named Best Business Hotel in Spain 2010 by the
prestigious magazine Business Destination
Leading European BusinessHotels
The respected magazine
Business Destinations has
included Hilton Madrid Airport
among the winners of its Best
Worldwide Hotel Awards 2010;
in fact, it has been voted Best
Business Hotel in Spain by a
panel of experts, professionals
in the hospitality industry and
Business Destinations readers.
We are really proud to receive
such recognition, said general
manager David cija. The
award is the reection of the
involvement and commitment
of Hilton Madrid Airports team,
which has been exceeding our
guests expectations since
the opening just two years ago.
Our goal is to keep on raising
the bar with our ongoing
eorts to satisfy and delight
our guests and clients.
in executive rooms can enjoy
the advantages of the
executive lounge, which
has its own reception for
check-in and check-out,
refreshments throughout
the day, computers with
internet access and
personalised service.
Hilton Madrid Airport
also oers the original
Hilton Relaxation Rooms
designed so that the space,
light and colours radiate
peace and harmony. These
spacious rooms also oer a
luxurious marble bathroom,
with a hydro-massage bath
and separate shower.
The hotel has a gym,
equipped with Precor
machines, plus a sauna ,
hydrotherapy pool and
personal trainer service.
And, for guests convenience,
Hilton Madrid Airport also
oers a complimentary
shuttle to Madrid Barajas
international airport.
When night falls, the
Ferrum Bar, with its modern
decor and exclusive speciality
whiskies, becomes the
main attraction.
For those only passing
through Madrid, Hilton oers
the Meetings in Transit
package, which allows you
to hire meeting rooms, enjoy
lunch and leisure facilities,
Wi-Fi internet and access to
the hotels leisure facilities. HT
+34 911 534 000;
hilton.co.uk/madridairport
Best BusinessHotel in Spain
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42
Celebrategood timesFrom sword
ghting in the
Sahara and canoe
racing in Cambodia
to estas that see
in the new moon
and the New Year,
heres our pick of
the worlds parties
M o v i n g M a p g r e a t g l o b a l F e s t i v a l sDest
inat ionIf its local colour youre after, nothing beats being in a
country thats jubilantly marking a memorable date, be it with an
ancient religious rite or a new twist on a national holiday
authenticity, energy and enormous fun come as standard
Words Philip Watson
OaxacaDaY oF the DeaD
31 October to
2 November 2011
For a celebratory yet
soulful Halloween, nothing
matches Mexicos Day of
the Dead. The annual
holiday unites family and
friends in remembering
those who have died.
In the ancient city of
Oaxaca, gifts and oerings
are taken at midnight to
cemeteries, and shrines
are built, with photos,
candles and sugar skulls,
that honour the departeds
favourite food, drink and
music perfect for a party.
15-day package from
2,271; journeylatin
america.co.uk
New YorkMaCYS thaNkSgiviNg
DaY ParaDe
25 November 2010
The US four-day holiday
weekend is primarily one
of family feasts, American
football and giving thanks
to God. Yet it is also a time
of great public spectacle,
especially in New York,
where Macys parade has
been running since 1924.
It features oats, high-
school marching bands,
giant balloons of cartoon
characters and a grand
nale with Santa Claus.
Three-night package
from 499; british
airways.com
Rio de JaneiroNeW YearS eve
31 December 2010
Rios New Year party, or
Rveillon, is one of the
biggest events of the
Brazilian year, and second
only to Carnival. By day,
thousands of people pay
homage to the goddess
Yemanj by placing
owers, gifts and candles
in the sea. By night, up
to two million revellers
throng the enormous and
exuberant free parties
along Copacabana Beach,
which hosts concerts,
DJs, a rework display and
all-night dancing.
Three-night package
from 899;
travel2brazil.co.uk
MaliFeStival iN
the DeSert
6-8 January 2011
This three-day festival,
spectacularly staged in the
remote Saharan desert
near Timbuktu, is modelled
on a traditional Tuareg
clan gathering, at which
decisions were made
and news exchanged.
It features camel races,
dance events, poetry
and sword ghts. More
recently, the annual
line-up of stellar African
and international
musicians has really put
the event on the map.
12-day package from
1,590 (excl ights);
responsibletravel.com
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Heathrow Traveller 43
JaipurDiWali
26-30 October 2011
Diwali, or the Festival of
Lights, is as important to
Hindus as Christmas is
to Christians. Celebrated
across India, one of the
more memorable places
to experience it is in Jaipur.
Known as the Pink City, it
is decorated with lanterns,
candles and garlands;
there are reworks; a
competition for the most
lit-up bazaar; and joyous
celebrations of good
over evil, prosperity over
poverty, light over dark.
Ten-day package
from 2,060;
ampersandtravel.com
Phnom PenhWater FeStival
20 to 22 November 2010
This full-moon festival in
Phnom Penh is one of the
oldest and liveliest in
the Cambodian calendar.
It celebrates the end of
the rainy season, the
start of the shing season,
and a unique natural
phenomenon the
reversing of the ow of
the Tonl Sap river. There
are bright dug-out canoes
with eyes on the prows to
ward o evil spirits, canoe
races, and, along the river
banks, music, food stalls
and rework displays.
Thirteen-day package
from 1,995 (excl ights);
wildfrontiers.co.uk
DresdenaDveNt Market
26 November to
24 December 2010
The oldest and most
atmospheric of the German
Christmas markets is
undoubtedly Dresdens.
Traditional and romantic,
it is located in the historic
part of the baroque city,
close to the Elbe, and
features handmade
crafts, gifts, toys and
foods, glass and wooden
tree decorations, to the
backdrop of carol singing.
Be sure to buy some of the
celebrated stollen cake,
invented in Dresden.
Two-night packages
from 290; german-
travel-uk.com
Beijing ChiNeSe NeW Year
3 February 2011
The New Year festivities
are the longest and most
important holidays in the
Chinese lunar calendar.
There are many colourful
customs, from windows
and doors decorated with
paper-cuts and lanterns,
to feasts of pig, duck and
sweets. Visitors on China
Links Travels trip will make
New Year dumplings and
see rework displays with
a Chinese family in Beijing,
and visit the Yong He Gong
temple, where locals pray
for good health.
Ten-day package
from 1,899;
chinalinkstravel.co.uk
ISTOCK; GETTY IM
AGES; ALAMY
For detailed airport and ight information, go to
heathrow.com
-
Heathrow Traveller 45Words Alexandra Friend Photography Beate
Sonnenberg
Festive gifts for Sun seekers Luxe lovers Business travellers
Young fliers
ARABiAnnoteS
The most covetable
beauty gifts full of
Eastern promise
inspired by the oils and incense of Middle eastern perfumery, Jo
Malones Cologne intense
capsule collection spins heady ingredients such as patchouli,
amber and oud into four scents
to be worn alone or layered deliciously on top of one another.
try oud & Bergamot with Rose
Water & Vanilla for a smoky swirl of citrus and wood with a
powdery waft of turkish delight.
Jo Malone Cologne Intense in Amber & Patchouli, Iris &
White Musk, Rosewater & Vanilla and
Oud & Bergamot, 80 for 100ml from Jo Malone in T3 and T4,
and all World Duty Free stores.
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46
g I F T g u I D e
LUXELOVER For those who adore
the ner things of life,
ideal items to indulge
them are at the airport
1. KG by Kurt Geiger Jasmine shoe 82.50 High Street 100 2.
French Connection Carnival clutch 51.06 High Street 60 3. Omega
Constellation
Quartz watch at Mappin & Webb 4,153.19 High Street 4,880 4.
Escada handbag 724.28 High Street 850 5. Links of London patent
coin purse
56.53 High Street 65 6. Gucci Guilty EDT at World Duty Free 48
7. Cartier Tank Franaise watch at Mappin & Webb 2,170 High
Street 2,550
8. Bulgari B.Zero1 white gold ring with pav diamonds 5,600 High
Street 6,650 9. Swarovski Intervalle thin golden bangle 89.36 High
Street
105 10. Miu Miu cats-eye sunglasses at David Clulow 93.61 High
Street 110
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3
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T h e l o u n g e
Heathrow Traveller 47
11. French Connection engraved metal clutch 51.06 High Street 60
12. Este Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Creme at
World
Duty Free 131.75 13. Smythson Damson travel wallet 268.09 High
Street 315 14. Links of London Innity Knot necklace 478.26 High
Street
550 15. French Connection Deco bead belt 34.04 High Street 40
16. LK Bennett Hallie shoe 191.50 High Street 225 17. Links of
London
20/20 ring in rose gold and diamond (top) or gold and diamond
(bottom) 782.61 High Street 900, silver 95.65 High Street 110 18.
Samsonite
vintage mini case at Rolling Luggage 165.95 High Street 195
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48
g I F T g u I D e
SUNSEEKER Taking to the skies for a
relaxing holiday is the
perfect moment to treat
yourself to carefree
clothes and accessories
1. Escada jacket 907.48 High Street 1,065 2. Ted Baker Adhara
cardigan 118.30 High Street 139 3. Cath Kidston Winter Rose holdall
46.81
High Street 55 4. Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia candle
30.40 High Street 38 5. Mulberry Edna shoulder bag 723.40 High
Street 850
6. Fat Face print dress 38.25 High Street 45 7. Tiany oval frame
sunglasses at David Clulow 198.29 High Street 233 8. French
Connection
Organic gold circles necklace 21.20 High Street 25
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Heathrow Traveller 49
9. Samsung Galaxy Tab at Dixons Travel 514.55 10. Sony Reader
Touch Edition at Sony Style 145 High Street 200 11. D&G
aviators at David
Clulow 104.68 High Street 123 12. French Connection waxed canvas
holdall 55.32 High Street 65 13. Veuve Clicquot fridge chiller at
World
Duty F