Heathrow Traveller Summer 2011

t h e o f f i c i a l m a g a z i n e f o r h e a t h r o w | S u m m e r 2 0 1 1

capital idea INSIDERS’ guIDE to LoNDoN magnificent malt oN thE whISky tRaIL IN ScotLaND alexander mccall Smith SayS wELcomEplUS: NEw zEaLaND + gERmaNy foR buSINESS + faNtaSy ISLaNDS + faShIoN foR LESS

beSt of britiSh

a celebration of all that is bright

about blighty

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All flights detailed are direct

routes from Heathrow, except

where specified.

Throughout the magazine

we’ve shown, where relevant,

the Airport Price together

with the High Street price*.

Where you see products

at an Airport Price, all

passengers, flying to all

destinations, can buy at

these prices, apart from

selected liquor lines which

are only available to those

flying outside the EU.

Passengers travelling to final

destinations outside the EU

may be requested to pay tax

on purchases on arrival at your

destination and/or if you bring

them back with you when

returning to the UK.

Go to heathrow.com for the

most up-to-date shopping

information and contact

details for individual stores.

All prices correct at time of

going to press. Some products

featured in this magazine are

of limited availability in airport

stores. Contact stores in

advance to check availability.

To keep track of the

WorldPoints you can earn

at the airport, go to

baaworldpoints.com.

Heathrow Traveller is published on behalf of BAA Airports Ltd by Show Media Ltd, 1-2 Ravey Street, London EC2A 4QP. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without prior written permission of the copyright owner. No responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions, or comments made by writers or interviewees. Views expressed are not necessarily the views of BAA Airports Ltd, and services and goods advertised are not necessarily endorsed by BAA Airports Ltd. All prices and information correct at time of going to press. Where there are price variations by terminal or location the highest is shown.

* Savings in World Duty Free stores are compared to the notional UK high street price, this being the average of prices from a survey of several high street stores. Details of these stores and individual prices are available on request.

W e l c o m e

This issue we celebrate

the Best of British – as

Heathrow Airport does

every day of the year.

Whether you’re visiting

from abroad or returning

home, you won’t miss the

buzz in the air. The upcoming

Olympics helps: there’s news

of Heathrow’s involvement

in London 2012 inside.

Sports fans are also thinking

of this year’s big sporting

event – the Rugby World Cup

in New Zealand: we feature

a guide to the host nation.

Pride in Britain also comes

from knowing how much it

has to offer visitors and

residents alike. One of our

greatest current exports,

novelist Alexander McCall

Smith, touches on this in his

column. And our guide to

London’s Secret Treats

reveals amazing places and

attractions that even a lot of

natives will find surprising.

Finally, we can boast

fantastic British products

with a heritage of excellence:

whether it’s Floris perfumes

or Speyside malt whiskies.

Read their stories, then grab

a bargain in Heathrow’s wide

range of shops.

Chris Madigan, Editor

Shopping

& Travel

info

publiShed by

ShoW media lTd 020 3222 0101

www.showmedia.net

Editor Chris Madigan

Art Director Martin Perry

Associate Editor Arabella Dickie

Designer Hillary Jayne

Picture Editor Juliette Hedoin

Sub Editors Sarah Evans,

Tanya Jackson, Gill Wing

Contributing Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Beauty Editor Jenni Baden Howard

Editorial Director

Joanne Glasbey

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Heathrow Marketing

Julia Gillam, Amardeep Chahil

For advertising enquiries:

Julia Pasaron 020 8741 8967

Colour reproduction

FMG wearefmg.com

Printing Southern Print

wyndeham.co.ukGE

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+44 (0)20 7730 1234 harrods.com

ENTER A DIFFERENT WORLD

IN ALL HEATHROW TERMINALS

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travel JournalNews from the airport and

around the world

11 Travel news

exciting new services at

Heathrow; new (airborne)

roads to Morocco; and the

countdown to the olympics

18 Entertainment

Broadway and Glee star Idina

Menzel shares her favourite

books and CDs; plus the latest

game and film reviews

20 Gourmet travel

exquisite seafood and more

on the west coast of sweden

22 Drinks

on the speyside malt whisky

trail in the scottish highlands

DestinationThis season’s big travel ideas

26 The big picture

Dramatic, brave surfing on

a huge wave in Hawaii

28 Comment

author alexander McCall

smith considers the cultural

expectations of travel, and

what the British have to offer

30 Postcard from…

england rugby team vice-

captain nick easter, who takes

us on a tour of Las Vegas

33 Secret London

our five-page alternative

guide to the city’s quirkiest

bars, restaurants and

entertainment venues, plus

unusual events and the best

day trips out of the city

38 Island retreats

For crystal-clear waters,

shimmering beaches and

undeniable luxury, the

ultimate destination is

a beautiful island resort

40 New Zealand

this year’s rugby World Cup

host nation also happens to

be the ultimate adventure

playground. explore its

breathtaking mountains, lakes

and treetops, taking in the

prolific wildlife along the way

the loungeDesirable deals at Heathrow

45 Ear candy

the studio-quality ‘Beats’

headphones from Dr Dre

46 Ticket-only fashion

greet the heat looking

gorgeous in Crete, san Diego

and Buenos aires

48 Sunglasses

Complete your look with a pair

of fabulous classic shades

50 Cosmetics

tip-top streak-free bronzers

that banish all memories of

orange tans forever

52 Fragrance

a family affair: the legacy

of London perfumers Floris

City sprintTips and accoutrements

for the business traveller

54 Frankfurt

the playful evolution of this

business city extraordinaire

58 Düsseldorf

How a regenerated harbour

has given the german city

a cool edge on business

59 Bavarian beer gardens

the best spots in and around

Munich to enjoy a refreshing

post-meeting beer in the sun

60 Easy PC

the new generation of tablets

gives portable computing

a new, glossy dimension

DeparturesLife at the airport and key

Heathrow information

63 Art of a diver

anew statue of olympian

tom Daly at terminal 5

64 Airport news

the latest developments

at Heathrow, and how to get

the most from your journey

66 A day in the life…

of an animal attendant

at the airport

68 Food & drink

tips from a member of

Heathrow’s Journey team

on where to eat with your

children at the airport

70 Maps & directory

getting around the terminals

74 Final call

they go unnoticed, but signs at

Heathrow have quite a history

Beyond Miraculous

The original Crème de la Mer, born from

the sea. Skin is immersed in moisture, sensitivities look soothed, radiance restored

with the legendary powers of the Miracle Broth.™ Today. Tomorrow. Forever.

Visit the La Mer counter in Heathrow Terminal 3, Terminal 4 or Terminal 5

for a personalised skincare consultation and a complimentary deluxe sample*.*One per customer please, while supplies last

T r a v e lJ o u r n a l

H e aT H r o w T o . . .

MOROCCO / tOROn tO / lyOn / ba RCelOna

SWeDen/ kOR e a / SCOt t ISH H IGH l a n DS

P l u s b R O a D W a y S t a R I D I n a M e n Z e l / O l y M P I C n e W S / b R I t I S H S P I R I t S

12

T r av e l J o u r n a l d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s e v e n t s

c u l t u r a l o ly m p i a d / b a r c e l o n a c o o k i n g / l o u n g e o f l u x u r y

n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e g l ob e

The future is here. Heathrow pod is

a driverless (that’s right, driverless),

battery-powered vehicle that can carry

up to four people and their luggage

along a dedicated guideway between

Terminal 5 and the T5 Business Car

Park in just five smooth minutes. And

there are 21 of the comfortable pods,

available on demand. If you’d like to

experience an eco-friendly, enjoyable

transfer, just hop aboard at one of

the three pod stations.

the Art of cooking

shop with the chef, bArcelonA

Most top chefs will emerge from the

kitchen to greet diners. Roberto Holz,

chef of the Hotel Arts Barcelona’s pair

of Michelin-starred restaurants, takes

it further. On 4 October, he will take

10 guests to the Mercat de la Boqueria

to discuss the culture of Barcelona’s

cuisine and share some culinary secrets.

Later you will prepare the food in the

Arola restaurant, before a relaxed

lunch. €200, hotelartsbarcelona.com

british Airways and iberia fly to barcelona

Terminal 3 has just become even more

welcoming with the addition of the

No 1 Traveller lounge. With a bar and

bistro area, games rooms, family rooms

and bedrooms on offer, it’s a haven for

weary passengers and inexhaustible

children. Take a seat by the runway

window with a glass of champagne or

book in for a treatment at the No 1 Spa.

A lounge pass can be purchased online

or on the door, whichever ticket you have.

baa.com/lounges

countdown to 2012

sport And the Arts join forces

Culture, sport and education are key

pillars of the Olympic Games. There’s

just under a year to go until the London

2012 Festival opens, marking the

finale of the 12-week Cultural Olympiad,

which takes place across the UK.

This unique celebration of talent will

feature leading artists, musicians,

film and theatre directors and writers

from around the globe, including

Toni Morrison, Plan B, Olafur Eliasson,

Deborah Warner, Miranda Hart, Mike

Leigh, Leona Lewis and Damon Albarn.

london2012.com/festival

f l a g i t u p l o o k o u t f o r t h e n e w u n i o n J a c k - p a i n t e d c a r r i a g e s o n t h e h e a t h r o w e x p r e s s t r a i n s e r v i c e . s p o n s o r e d b y v o d a f o n e , t h e d e s i g n i s m a d e u p o f 6 0 0 c o u n t r y n a m e s , h i g h l i g h t i n g t h e n e t w o r k ’ s g l o b a l n e t w o r k

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T r av e l J o u r n a l d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s n e w s

s p r i n g s c e n t s / k o r e a t o u r s / d e s i g n e r p h o t o e x h i b i t i o n

14

Jo Malone’s latest fragrance, Wild

Bluebell, evokes the nostalgic, sweet

scent of the sapphire flowers that

carpet British woodlands in springtime.

A green and floral top note of fresh

bluebell and heady clove combines

with classic lily of the valley, jasmine,

white amber and musk. Inspired by

fairytales, the scent evokes an

otherworldly mystery and whimsy

with a contemporary twist. Jo Malone

As a frequent traveller, British designer

Paul Smith is always on the look-out for

unusual items to stock in his Paul Smith

Globe outlet at Heathrow’s Terminal 5,

alongside his fashion collections. From

23 August to 20 September the shop’s

Wild BlueBell

springtime in a Bottle

Korea moves

trips to south and north

The two Koreas are fascinating – and

vastly different – places to visit. On

the Go (onthegotours.com) offers a

selection of tours of South Korea: in

nine or 12 days you can explore grand

palaces in the capital, Seoul; serene

mountains and lakes in the Danyang

region; rich green tea plantations on

the ‘treasure island’, Namhae; and the

UNESCO-protected temples of Bulguska,

near Busan. Alternatively, flying via

Beijing, you could visit the DPRK in 2012

for the 100th birthday of President

Kim Il-Sung (who still holds that position

despite having died in 1994). Regent

Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk) offers

a tour of monumental sights, including

Kumsusan Memorial Palace, the vast

Kim Il-Sung Square and a 65ft statue

of the ‘dear leader’.

asiana airlines & Korean air fly to seoul;

air China & Ba fly to Beijing for pyongyang

[ t r a v e l p h o t o g r a p h y ]

ey e i n t h e s k yThe view from the window seat, captured beautifully

a w e e k i n p r i n t J o u r n a l i s t a n d a u t h o r o f M a n a n d B o y a n d T h e F a m i l y W a y ,t o n y p a r s o n s r e c e n t l y s p e n t a w e e k l i v i n g a t h e a t h r o w a i r p o r t . h e i s s o o nt o p u b l i s h a b o o k b a s e d o n h i s e x p e r i e n c e s

art wall is displaying these breathtaking

aerial photographs by Alan Aboud.

The series, Above All Else, captures

beautiful moments of airborne serenity.

Each photograph is available to buy in

the Paul Smith store.

has made a donation to the Woodland

Trust in order to protect the dwindling

numbers of English bluebells, currently

under environmental threat.

1 6

T r av e l J o u r n a l d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s h o t e l s

h i g h - t e c h wat c h e s / n e w f l i g h t s t o m o r o c c o / c l u b r o o m

16 Words Joanne Glasbey

‘We’ll always have Paris’, intones

Humphrey Bogart’s Rick to Ingrid

Bergman’s Ilsa in Casablanca.

Well now we can have Casablanca and

Marrakech, direct from Heathrow.

Launched earlier this year, bmi

makes four direct weekly flights to

Casablanca and three to Marrakech,

to be increased to five from 1 October.

Marrakech, known as ‘the Red City’,

is set against the backdrop of the high

Atlas Mountains, where Arabic and

Berber cultures combine with a French

influence. At the city’s heart is the

Djemaa el-Fna, the busy main square,

framed by a labyrinth of alleyways,

courtyards and cul-de-sacs housing

traditional souks and fashionable

restaurants. Reliably luxurious

hotels that have recently opened

include Four Seasons and L’hôtel

Mansour. But smaller boutique hotels

offer a more intimate experience.

Recommended in Marrakech’s medina

is five-star hotel Villa des Orangers,

a Relais & Châteaux property. This

small palace is a tranquil retreat, and

its French owners ensure its style and

elegance, in both design and cuisine.

Casablanca, on the Atlantic coast,

is not only Morocco’s largest city and

port, but the largest in the Maghreb.

It also boasts some Hispano-Moorish

art deco and modernist gems, an

example of the latter being the vast,

ornate Hassan II Mosque.

The Hôtel & Spa Le Doge is a well-

preserved art deco building. One of

the best boutique hotels in the city

and another member of Relais &

Châteaux, it is housed in a Thirties

building in the centre. While there, visit

the stylish Rick’s Café, near the port.

From 31 October, bmi will fly direct

to the south-west coastal resort of

Agadir twice weekly. Recently, bmi

launched a new mobile website

and became the first British airline

allowing passengers to book and pay

for flights using their smartphones.

Here’s looking at you, kid.

flybmi.com; relaischateaux.com

bmi and Royal Air Maroc fly to Casablanca.

bmi flies to Marrakech and, from Oct, Agadir

[ d e s t i n a t i o n f o c u s ]

moro c c o on a rol lWith more bmi flights to more cities, the North African jewel is truly alluring

. . . n e w s .. .

Just when you were wondering how

watches would evolve next, Bell & Ross

unveils its latest timepiece, which pays

homage to the icon of navigational

technology. The face of the BR 01 Red

Radar is made up of three concentric

red discs that represent hours, minutes

and seconds. As time passes, a radar-

style beam sweeps across each circle

on the screen. The BR 01 is available at

£3,000 (£3,600 High Street).

The homely Three Bells restaurant in

Terminal 3 has undergone a revamp with

its new private Club Room – perfect for

intimate dinners or meetings. The room,

quirkily decked out in bright stripes and

bold prints, can seat 14 guests for

meetings and 20 for dinner, with a

menu of British fare. For other events,

such as wine tasting, private quizzes,

or murder mystery evenings, contact

[email protected]

THe THRee Bells

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T r av e l J o u r n a l e n t e r ta i n m e n t

i d i n a m e n z e l ’ s t r av e l l i n g m u s i c / b o o k s / d v d s / g a m e s

1. ‘Don’t Stop Believin’ from Glee The 3D Concert Movie (Soundtrack), £8 (High Street £9.99) 2. ‘Born This Way’ by

Lady Gaga from Now 79, £11.20 (High Street £13.99) 3. ‘Sugar Sugar’ by The Archies from Bubblegum Pop, £8

(High Street £9.99) 4. ‘Hey Jude’ from 1 (Remastered) by The Beatles, out 5 September 5. Title track, Phantom

Of The Opera 25th Anniversary by the Original London Cast, out 3 October

The original

Broadway and West

End star of Wicked

is under the spell

of Dudley Moore

A good old-fAshionedsingAlong Glee has proved yet again

that most of us like nothing better than a tune

we can all join in with

[ t r a v e l e n t e r t a i n m e n t ]

AL

L S

TA

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interview Maria Yacoob

Idina MenzelThe award-winning singer and star of Glee

loves musicals, jazz and a funny little Brit

Since becoming a mother

[Idina has a two-year old

son, Walker] I’ve come to

regard a few hours on a

plane as quite a salvation!

Lately I’ve been reading a lot

on journeys. I’ve just finished

a book called The Immortal

Life of Henrietta Lacks, by

Rebecca Skloot. It’s a true

story about a black woman

who got cancer in the Fifties.

The cells taken from her in

a biopsy were then used

for scientific research,

generating millions of dollars.

But her family was never

told, and remained too poor

even to afford healthcare.

I’m looking forward to

performing in Britain again

in my concert at the Royal

Albert Hall. British culture

features heavily at my home

right now. My husband [actor

Taye Diggs] and I have just

gotten into old Dudley Moore

movies – the other day we

watched Arthur twice in a

row. We were in hysterics,

but also in awe. Comedians

don’t get enough credit for

their acting talents.

My concert material is very

autobiographical. I write a lot

of my own music, drawing

inspiration from other female

songwriters such as Annie

Lennox, Shawn Colvin, and,

of course, Joni Mitchell. I’ve

been immersing myself in

her music lately. Sometimes

I even just read the lyrics

without the music, to read

the stories and see her

wordplay. I have vocal

inspirations, too: Aretha

Franklin, Barbra Streisand

and Chaka Khan, who has an

effortless quality

to her singing.

I’m so excited to be

in the next series of

Glee [Idina plays Shelby

Corcoran, coach of a rival

glee club]. And some of my

biggest roles have been in

Broadway and West End

musicals, like Maureen in

Rent and Elphaba in Wicked.

My personal favourite has to

be West Side Story. The music

is unparalleled and Jerome

Robbins’ choreography was

unlike anything that had gone

before. Another favourite

musical of mine is Oliver!

I have fond memories of

playing Nancy in a school

production, and the film

itself is so beautiful and dark.

I’ve always loved jazz

music. Our two cats are

called Ella (Fitzgerald) and

John (Coltrane). Our Yorkshire

terrier is called Sammy Davis

Junior. I’ve been listening to a

lot of Frank Sinatra recently,

trying to think if there’s a

song of his I could possibly

cover. My husband and I like

singing the George Gershwin

song ‘Let’s Call the Whole

Thing Off’, which Ella and

Louis Armstrong sang

so memorably. HT

On 6 October, Idina

Menzel plays a

concert at the

Royal Albert Hall,

singing musical

theatre and pop

favourites, with the

Royal Philharmonic

Concert Orchestra.

Book tickets at

idinainlondon

.com

H e at h row Trave l l e r 1 9

Books&

dvds

gAme

All DVDs, games and CDs from HMV at Heathrow; all books available from WHSmith & WHSmith Bookshops at Heathrow.

Prices and availability correct at time of printing, but subject to change

Reviews Rosie Steer (books & DVDs); Henry Farrar-Hockley (game)

Gears of War 3Xbox 360, released 20 SeptemberThe finale of the barnstorming trilogyhas all the shoot-’em-up requirements:a seemingly unstoppable enemy,adrenaline-heavy set pieces, some heavy-duty ordnance,blistering multiplayer maps, much cordite-tinged bromance and plenty of ‘Ooh-rah!’

Book/ Young SHerlock

HolmeS – Black Ice

andrew lane, £6.99

The third instalment in the

Young Sherlock Holmes

series sees 14-year-old

Sherlock’s most puzzling

mystery yet when his older

brother Mycroft is found

locked in a room, knife in

hand, with a corpse.

Sherlock’s quest to prove

Mycroft’s innocence takes

him to Moscow and back.

DVD/ glee SeaSon 2

(Volume 2)

released 19 September

The second series of hit

US show Glee follows the

singing and dancing cast

of New Directions as they

struggle with love, ambition

and rivalry. The show

continues its sardonic look

at life in high school.

Book/ BaD SISTerS

rebecca chance, £6.99

In Chance’s third novel,

three rival sisters feud.

Things spiral out of control

when the penniless Deeley

arrives back in London,

hoping to reconnect with

her estranged siblings but

instead causes havoc.

A deadly secret threatens

to tear the family apart.

Blu-raY/ STar WarS

THe compleTe Saga


The highly anticipated

Blu-ray release sees the

Star Wars saga available

in one complete set for the

first time, in stunning HD.

Relive all your favourite

moments and enjoy 40

hours of special features.

Book/ kIll alex croSS

James patterson, £12.99

(exclusively at WH Smith

from 4 august)

The latest Alex Cross novel

is the most gripping yet,

and involves two major

cases. The President’s son

and daughter have been

abducted, and the water

supply for Washington DC

has been poisoned. Will the

pressure push Cross over

the edge?

DVD & Blu-raY/ pIraTeS

of THe carIBBean: on

STranger TIDeS


British acting royalty romps

around the Caribbean as

Captain Jack Sparrow meet

his match: the infamous

Blackbeard (played with

relish by Ian McShane).

Jack is joined by old flame

Angelica (Penélope Cruz)

on a quest to find the

Fountain of Youth.

Book/ THe STranger’S

cHIlD

alan Hollinghurst,

£13.99

Hollinghurst’s first novel in

seven years consolidates

his reputation as master

of witty prose and deft

psychological observation.

It begins on the eve of the

First World War and follows

the lives of the Sawle and

Valance families over

several generations.

DVD & Blu-raY/ faST &

furIouS 5


In the latest Fast & Furious

film, Vin Diesel and Paul

Walker join forces once

more in a showdown with

a corrupt businessman,

while evading the

authorities in less-than-

inconspicuous vehicles.

The series’ formula of fast

cars and fast living is as

exhilarating as ever.

Book/ fallen

karin Slaughter, £12.99

The latest in the Georgia

crime series sees special

agent Faith Mitchell’s

mother missing, the house

in a bloody mess and her

daughter trapped in the

shed. Faith’s partner Will

must solve the vicious case.

DVD & Blu-raY/ THor


Kenneth Branagh’s movie

sees the powerful but

arrogant god Thor sent by

his father to live among

humans. The warrior must

redeem himself and protect

the world from his evil

brother Loki’s dark forces.

Book/ THe granD

DeSIgn

Stephen Hawking, £8.99

Famous scientist Stephen

Hawking and science

writer Leonard Mlodinow

draw upon Hawking’s

research and recent

astronomical observations

to reveal a controversial

new theory that fuses

together different

arguments to understand

mysteries of the universe.

2 0

T r av e l J o u r n a l G o u r m e t t r av e l

t h e b e s t o f s w e d i s h c u i s i n e / c h a r c u t e r i e c h o i c e

In late summer on the west coast of

Sweden, a special date draws near.

The first Monday after 20 September

(this year, the 26th) is the first day of

lobster season. Professional fishermen

and amateurs alike prepare their pots in

the coastal villages north of Gothenburg.

Each person can drop a maximum of

50. It’s the perfect time to take in a trip

there, as you can join a ‘lobster safari’

and haul up some homaridae yourself.

The European lobster grows slowly

and has a carnivorous rather than

seaweed diet, so ends up far tastier

than its cousins off, for example, the

coast of Maine. But, although no

monsters, they seem pretty fierce as

you wrestle them out of their prisons.

part of a menu that starts with a staple,

bleak roe (bleak is similar to bream) on

toast with sour cream and onion. Or avail

yourself of the herring bar. Marinated

herrings are served with every flavour

under the sun – tomato, bilberry, sweet

mustard, apple and the traditional

marinade of ättika (spirit vinegar), sugar,

allspice, cloves, cinnamon and dill seeds.

Further along the coast, at Everts

Sjöbod (Evert’s Boathouse, evertssjobod.

se) near Grebbestad, brothers Per and

Lars Karlsson are building Sweden’s

reputation for another seafood delicacy,

the oyster. The clean, sheltered waters

around the islands along the coast are

ideal for flavourful oysters. Per pilots

a beautiful Fifties wooden boat through

the archipelago while Lars shucks oysters

at speed. We eat them with crispbread

and porter brewed in Grebbestad.

While Sweden’s oysters are not

exactly world-renowned, its crayfish

are incomparable. These are not the

bright red freshwater crustaceans

the rest of Sweden enjoys at messy,

drunken ‘crayfish parties’. These are

delicate but rich-tasting langoustines/

Norwegian lobsters/Dublin Bay prawns,

depending on your language. Restaurant

tables all along the coast are heaving

with them, served with mayonnaise

and lemon, or, as at the Grand Hotel

Marstrand (grandmarstrand.se), au gratin.

Quality of produce here is not

restricted to seafood. Sweden was

one of the 15 nations in the original

Slow Food movement, and has its own

accreditation system, the Västsvensk

Mersmak (‘Taste of West Sweden‘).

At the beautiful 19th-century Villa

Sjötorp (villasjotorp.se), overlooking

Havstenford, the meat and vegetables

all come from local farms. Lamb, for

example, is served with roasted garlic,

crushed new

potatoes,

cauliflower purée

and herbs. Inland,

surrounded by fields of

grain and vegetable crops, AL

AM

y; G

ET

Ty

IMA

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S; I

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After a morning in the sun and on the

sea off Fiskebäckskil, we deliver half a

dozen lobster to Björn Anderson, chef

of Brygghuset (brygghuset-krog.com).

‘you can boil it with leeks, carrots, fennel

and dill seeds,’ he says, ‘but I prefer the

simple way – heavily salted water.’ There

is debate about the ethics of boiling a

live animal, but, for Andersson, there is

another consideration – always put the

lobster in claws-first; its tail will thrash

furiously and could drench you with

boiling water if it is facing upwards.

Brygghuset offers lobster in West

Swedish style – with dill, garlic

cream and horseradish

syrup,

as

[ t h e a u t h e n t i c t a s t e o f . . . ]

West SwedenWith lobster, langoustines and oysters on the menu,

Scandinavian seafood’s not all about herring, you know

Words Chris Madigan; Sarah Evans

Herring salad.

Below: a Swedish

langoustine. Opposite,

from top: Marstrand; a

lobster fisherman


is Qvänum Mat & Malt (qmm.se), a

brewery, snaps distillery and restaurant

run by Claes and Annike Wernerson.

Over a light lunch of parsley root soup

with chicken mousse (accompanied

by a homemade light beer called

The Neighbour, and toasted with a

honey, fennel and caraway- flavoured

snaps invented by King Karl XI), Claese

enthuses about what the locals, mainly

farmers and hunters, produce: ‘They

catch perch in Lake Värnen; there is

moose in the forest, and the venison

is cooked with lingonberries and a

bit of dark chocolate.’

The lure of such ingredients (OK, and

a Swedish girl) was enough to bring a

British chef, Stephen Rowe, here. He

now runs the kitchen at the castle hotel,

Bjertorp Slott (bjertorpslott.se), where,

ironically, he threw out the international

menu and insisted on local ingredients.

He enthuses about the bases of birch

trees making the perfect beds for

chanterelle and trumpet mushrooms;

and cold-pressed rapeseed oil as an

alternative to olive oil. And, of course,

he points across the fields towards the

sea and talks about its bounty. HT

For details of seafood safaris, and other

culinary tours, visit vastsverige.com

Charcuterie Bonnard, Lyon

Not far from the Musée des Beaux Arts, this

establishment, which opened in 1850, sells

a wide range of Lyonnais specialities, from

sausages such as the sabodet, Jésus de Lyon,

cervelas and saveloy (stuffed with truffles or

pistachios) to traditional dried meats. Closed

6-31 August. charcuteriebonnard.fr

Stellenbosch Hills, Cape Town

Legend has it that biltong came from migrating

African tribesmen, who would tenderise strips

of meat under their saddles. Thankfully, it is

now made by marinating in vinegar and

air-drying. Try a selection, paired with six wines

on at the Stellenbosch Hills Wine Cellar.

stellenbosch-hills.co.za

La Boqueria Food Market, Barcelona

Just off Las Ramblas, this vast edifice shelters

an impressive range of stalls, selling wares from

spectacular seafood to gleaming fruit and veg.

La Masia de la Boqueria displays a sizeable

selection of charcuterie and specialises in

ibérico products – the ham from acorn-fed pigs

is surely worth the flight alone. boqueria.info

The Black Hoof, Toronto

This compact restaurant’s name embodies its

emphasis on animal parts less travelled – pig’s

tail, anyone? It offers a range of charcuterie,

made in-house, which changes constantly and

has included beef heart, sake-cured capocollo

and horse-meat sausage. theblackhoof.com

For flight information go to heathrow.com/destinations

M e aTa n dg r e e Tl o v e r s o f s a u s a G e a n d h a m : h e r e a r e s o m e c e n t r e s o f c h a r c u t e r i e e x c e l l e n c e

SAS flies to Gothenburg

22

o n e o f B r i t a i n ’ s r e m o t e s t a r e a s p r o d u c e s i t s f i n e s t s p i r i t

T r av e l J o u r n a l s p e y s i d e m a l t s

[ m a l t w h i s k y ] The old Speyside smuggling

days re-enacted. Opposite,

from top: a swan-necked

still; The Glenlivet distillery

Words Chris Madigan, Rosie Steer

At 570m, Carn Daimh, on the Speyside

Way, may be a modest summit but it’s

an evocative spot on the trail once

used by smuggler Robbie MacPherson

to bring whisky out of the Glenlivet

valley to a thirsty world.

Until 1824, the likes of MacPherson

and George Smith, founder of he

Glenlivet distillery, were breaking the law

by dealing in whisky. This despite it

being, in the words of The Glenlivet’s

current Master Distiller, Alan Winchester,

‘part of the cycle of Highland life’. Then

George IV came to Edinburgh, dressed in

a kilt (‘to ingratiate himself’, says

Winchester), and demanded a glass of

Glenlivet. After that, it was impossible

not to issue licences.

The history and landscape ofthe Highlands has created

the ideal conditions forwhisky-making

At Charlestown of Aberlour, the stream

that gives the whisky its name (‘mouth

of the Lour’) runs through the Aberlour

distillery, whereas The Glenlivet has

springs dotted around the hill above the

distillery. Filtration through Cairngorm

granite gives the water a pure minerality

that, say, Kentucky cannot boast.

Malted barley is used in place of rye or

corn, because traditionally it has been

the only cereal hardy enough to grow

here. And the often-damp conditions

are ideal for maturing whisky slowly.

What’s left of the barley returns to the

land: both The Glenlivet’s and Aberlour’s

draff becomes cattle feed.

With heritage, provenance and craft

so important to whisky, it’s surprising to

realise that as recently as the Sixties,

single malts were the preserve of

grizzled drinkers. Then Glenfiddich

gained a reputation to match Johnnie

Walker, and others followed suit: Cardu,

Macallan, The Glenlivet etc. Now, says

Winchester, malt drinkers no longer stick

steadfastly to one dram: ‘As with real

ale, they’re keen to try different styles.’

His latest release is the beautifully

balanced Master Distiller’s Reserve.

To understand why all whiskies don’t

Scottishstill life

hoorayfor SPeySix of the best malts at World of Whiskies

1. Balvennie Portwood

21YO 70cl, £70.99

(High Street £90.90)

2. Macallan Whisky

Makers Edition 1l,

£59.99 3. Aberlour 12YO

Sherry Cask, 1l, £30.99

4. The Glenlivet 18YO

1l, £42.49 (HS £54.11)

5. Glenfiddich Rich Oak

1l, £32.99 (HS £50.69)

6. The Glenlivet Master

Distiller’s Reserve 1l,

£34.99 (WDF exclusive)

1

2

3 5

4 6

H e at h row Trave l l e r 2 3 bmi and British Airways fly to Aberdeen

taste the same, you need to visit at least

a couple of distilleries. In these places,

the mystical and chemical entwine: in

copper stills, different shaped necks

release different spirits, while in

warehouses, rows of casks silently

impart characteristics of bourbon or

sherry over 12, 18, even 25 years,

while the ‘angel’s share’ evaporates.

Aberlour’s tour is led by another

passionate expert, but no local, Bengt

Olaf Andersson, and ends with a tasting

and the chance to fill your own bottle of

single-cask malt (aberlour.com). After a

tour of the new Glenlivet distillery

(theglenlivet.com), take a walk along one

of the Smugglers’ trails in the valley –

the perfect way to feel the bond

between people, animals, landscape

and whisky in the Highlands. HT

Chris Madigan flew to with bmi Aberdeen

and stayed at the Aberdeen Mal, which

has a whisky cave, expert bar staff and

regular tastings (malmaison.com)

Pimm’s

In 1823, James Pimm opened his London

Oyster Bar and put his own infusion of gin,

herbs and fruit extracts on the menu. It

became known as the Pimm’s House Cup.

Pimm’s No.1, 70cl, £14.49 (High Street £15.88)

Bushmills Irish Whiskey

More than 400 years of history live on at

Ireland’s oldest working distillery. Unusually,

Bushmills produces both malt whiskeys and

blended ones, including the classic Black Bush.

Bushmills Black Bush, 1l, £21.99

London Dry Gin

A name first coined in the 18th century,

London Dry Gin was the capital’s characteristic

spirit, distilled with citrus aromatics and less

sweet than foreign equivalents.

Beefeater LDG, 1l, £11.99 (HS £22.57)

S P I r I To F T h en aT I o nd r i n k s w i t h r o o t s d e e pi n t h e s o i l o f e n g l a n d ,s c o t l a n d & u l s t e r s o i l

Drambuie

From a recipe given to Scotsman Captain

MacKinnon by Bonnie Prince Charlie, Drambuie

is made from malt whisky, heather honey and a

secret blend of herbs and spices.

Drambuie, 1l, £24.99 (HS £36.17)

Chase Marmalade Vodka

Made using traditional methods, this sublime

spirit also enjoys a lengthy steep in the finest

orange preserve. And what could be more

British than marmalade?

Chase Marmalade, 70cl, £29.99 (WDF exclusive)

2 4

La prairie’s laboratories

constantly strive for the next

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DESTINATION London New Zealand Paradise islands England rugby’s Nick Easter on Las Vegas

2 6


T h e b i g P i c T u r e : o u T s i d e

P h a n T o m s , o a h u , h a w a i i

In 1977 a young Australian picked up a Kodak Instamatic and snapped a picture of a wave off a beach in

Tasmania. Fourteen years on, Sean Davey is one of the world’s leading surf photographers. He is now based on the

North Shore of Oahu, where some of the world’s most famous waves crash into the island. Davey says,

‘I photographed this image back in 2001. There was a very big swell under perfect conditions and I took a helicopter

up, just randomly chasing images. We were hovering over a place called Outside Phantoms, when Brazilian surfer

Fernando Rebeira caught this amazing wave.’ Ten years on, it’s still one of the photographer’s favourite shots.

Sean Davey/Getty Images

United Airlines flies to Honolulu

2 8

Whatever characters visitors to theUK expect to meet, one thing they

can rely on is a warm welcome

A tip of the hat

Illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e s t i n at i o n c o m m e n t A l e x A n d e r m c c A l l S m i t h

Bertie Plays the Blues (the latest 44 Scotland Street novel) by Alexander McCall Smith is published on 1 August by Birlinn Ltd. A paperback of the previous book in the series, The Importance of Being Seven, is available now

We all know the saying that

travel broadens the mind.

I agree, but would add that

it can broaden the mind in

more than one direction.

Going abroad not only

shows us how others live,

but helps us think about how

we live at home. When I return

to the UK after an overseas

trip, I often think about how

we must look to the visitor.

Standing in the queue next

to a large UK BORDER notice

makes me think about what

lies ahead for those about me

– the travellers with whom

I may have spent eight or nine

hours in an aircraft five miles

up in the sky. What’s going

through their minds? What

are they expecting to find on

the other side of that border?

I suppose every visitor has

preconceptions. I remember

when I first travelled to the

American South, I had a very

strong idea of what I would

find there. After all, I had read

my Faulkner and watched

Gregory Peck in To Kill a

Mockingbird. I expected

trees with moss hanging off

the branches, houses with

swing seats on the verandas,

and eateries serving

deliciously unhealthy fried

food. And what did I get?

Exactly that. Mobile, Alabama,

where I did a series of literary

talks, and Oxford, Mississippi,

where I did a signing in an

iconic Southern bookstore,

fulfilled every expectation

I had, and then added the

most remarkable American

hospitality to the mixture.

Visitors who come to

Britain probably have much

the same sort of personal list

of things they expect to see.

The face of modern Britain

may be changing rapidly – as

everywhere is – but many of

the old things remain – and

thank goodness for that.

There are still traditional

low-ceilinged pubs serving

warm beer; there are still

soldiers dressed in colourful

uniforms with impossible

bearskin headgear; there are

still flat-bottomed boats

propelled through ancient

university towns by young

men wielding poles. And

further north, the visitor

to Scotland can still hear

bagpipes being played on

Edinburgh street corners

and see, in the summer

months at least, men in kilts

tossing cabers at Highland

games. All these shenanigans

may seem highly unlikely,

but the important thing

for the visitor to Britain to

remember is that nothing is

staged. This is real. We really

go in for these things. We

really believe in them!

That, I think, is one of the

most attractive things about

Britain: the fact that life

in these islands has an

extraordinary historical and

cultural depth and variety.

This means that the modern,

functional world of the here

and now coexists within

a spectrum of optional

lifestyles and interests.

For the most part, all of

this is shared with the visitor,

who is often a welcome

participant in the whole

business. So if you want

to dress up and go to a fancy

horse race with the best

of them, all you need is a

ridiculous hat and the price

of the ticket. If you want to

cheer on a boat race, then

either side will be very

pleased for you to shout

them on. If you want to go

to a pub and talk to the locals,

you can do that too: all you

need to do is to buy a round

of drinks – they like that.

So, in general, as I stand

in that hall on the arrival side

of the UK border, I find that

I have no great fear about

what lies ahead for my fellow

travellers. We have our faults

in Britain, of course, but I’d

say being reluctant to give

visitors a welcome is not

really one of them.

I have one word of warning

for the visitor, though: one of

the preconceptions you may

have is that of traditional

British reserve. Yes, that

exists too, but may be quickly

broken down by the savvy,

in-the-know visitor. The key

is for you to be the first to

utter the all-important code

word that melts the ice.

That word? ‘Hello’. HT

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British Airways flies to Las Vegas

D e s t i n at i o n P o s t c a r d n i c k e a s t e r

Since 2004, Nick Easter has played at No 8 for Harlequins RFC, current holders of the European Challenge Cup; and he is vice-captain of the England team that won the RBS 6 Nations this year and will travel to New Zealand for the World Cup

Rugby star findsa new strip

The England vice-captain takes timeout from training to explain why LasVegas has something for everyone

I’ve had three excellent

holidays in Las Vegas,

Nevada. It’s a mad place

to escape to, completely

unique compared to the

rest of the world.

for me, it is usually a

celebration with my

teammates at the end of a

tough season, somewhere

to let loose and enjoy

ourselves. there’s plenty to

do and every hotel is like a

mini-city in itself; with

casinos, restaurants, clubs,

bars, pools and more.

you bump into people from

all over the world. maybe it is

the fact that you can lose

yourself for a few

days. they pump

the hotels full of

oxygen, so you just

keep going!

the hotels are

always good value.

i’ve stayed

at the

Hard rock Hotel, which is a

great place. the steakhouse

there is pretty hard to beat

for dinner. the Bellagio hotel

also has a good reputation

and is where the ‘o’ cirque

du soleil show is held. it’s

very popular so you have to

book well in advance.

But there are several

cirque du soleil shows

in Vegas and you

should definitely

catch one. the acrobatics

seem almost impossible.

Vegas is all about casinos

but i’m not actually a big

gambler myself. i’ll have

a go because you can’t really

escape it. they’ve got tables

at the pool, tables at the bar.

Wherever you go, you have

the chance to gamble. if i do,

i’ll keep it simple with a bit

of blackjack.

they have all the top DJs

in the clubs. the best night

i’ve been to is xs at the Wynn.

that’s an amazing club. one

time they were chucking

$100 bills in the air – ‘making

it rain’, as they call it. that

was a special night! it’s an

enormous club; half outside,

half inside. the vibe and the

music are both good.

i’ll always be down by the

pool around 11am, regardless

of what happened the night

before. they have pool

parties in the afternoon and

i’ll drop in at the other hotels,

to see what’s happening.

if you aren’t into partying,

there is still plenty to do, like

a helicopter ride over the

Grand canyon. you’ll be flying

along and suddenly the

ground will drop away a mile

deep. it certainly wakes you

up after a long night! there’s

a shooting range, which i’ve

been to before, and loads out

of the centre to get up to

during the day.

But wherever you stay

and whatever you do, you’re

guaranteed plenty of

entertainment. HT

Nick Easter is managed

by SJ Dent & Co Sports

Management; sjdentmgt.com

Interview Giles milton

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For details of onward travel from Heathrow, go to heathrow.com/toandfrom

Secret LondonQuirky museums, pop-up eateries andexciting events… Discover the capitalthat most visitors rarely experience

to Westminster Bridge.

Highlights include a night

carnival, a communal dining

table over Southwark Bridge,

a parade of historical boats

and a fantastic firework

finale. 10-11 September.

thamesfestival.org

Olympic test events

A number of world-class

sporting events are taking

place in the capital this

summer, in order to test

operations and try out the

new facilities in the run-up

to London 2012. the new

Olympic Park and existing

venues will play host to

archery, cycling, boxing,

basketball and table tennis

events, among others.

londonpreparesseries.com

tickets at ticketmaster.co.uk.

Frieze Art Fair

this annual modern art

fair, held in the elegant

surroundings of Regent’s

Park, is one of the world’s

most important, challenging

showcases of emerging and

established talent from

around the world. Attracting

more than 170 international

galleries, along with buyers,

culture’s leading lights and

celebrities, Frieze is an

unmissable event on any

contemporary art lover’s

calendar. Check the website

for details of exhibition tours,

talks and film screenings.

13-16 October.

friezeartfair.com

intriguingeventS

Exhibitions, festivals and assorted happenings

thames Festival

this free event has activities

running all the way along the

thames from tower Bridge

Sand sculptures

on the riverbank

at the Mayor’s

Thames Festival

Anthropomorphic

Summer Festival

Wilton’s Music Hall, near

Tower Hill, is the world’s

oldest survivor of its kind,

and has an interesting array

of events for its summer

festival. You can catch music,

theatre, comedy and magic

shows, but is worth visiting

for the Mahogany Bar alone

and to see the gorgeous

1850s building. Take a tour

and discover its colourful

history (from Victorian

sailor’s pub to a Methodist

Mission). Until 9 September.

wiltons.org.uk

Open House London

Once a year, hundreds of

buildings that are usually

closed to the public open

their doors to all, allowing

a peek inside unusual and

important architectural

wonders such as 30 St Mary

Axe (the ‘Gerkin’), as well

as private homes and

government departments.

Last year more than 700

buildings took part and

admission to the buildings

is absolutely free. Across

London, 17 & 18 September.

londonopenhouse.org.

The Museum

Of Everything

The movable Museum Of

Everything is London’s only

museum dedicated to pieces

by artists who live and work

outside mainstream society.

Featuring works from

overlooked, self-taught

artists, the museum’s

fourth exhibition opens

2 September in a yet

undisclosed central London

space and promises to be

intriguing and inspirational.

museumofeverything.com

More London festival

The Scoop is an outdoor

sunken amphitheatre with

the impressive backdrop

of Tower Bridge and City

Hall. During the summer

it turns into a hive of free

cultural events, including

concerts, theatre and film

screenings. Festival runs

until 30 September.

morelondon.com

The Horniman Museum

This lovely Victorian edifice

in leafy Forest Hill shows

off the passion of early

naturalists. When a walrus

skin was sent back from

Hudson Bay to be stuffed,

the taxidermist had no idea

it had folds of skin – the

resulting puffa-walrus is

there to this day; along with

ethnographic curios and

an excellent aquarium.

horniman.ac.uk

Whitechapel Bell

Foundry

This modest little workshop

has produced two items at

the very heart of American

and British democracy: Big

Ben and the Liberty Bell.

The foundry still operates

today and you can take

a fascinating tour of it by

prior appointment.

whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk

Handel House Museum

This house in Brook Street,

Mayfair, was home to the

German composer for some

36 years and it was here that

he composed Messiah and

other lasting classics. Not

only is the house restored

to Georgian splendour and

stuffed with the composer’s

possessions, it is also a venue

for Baroque music concerts.

handelhouse.org

Dennis and Sir John

Two houses full of character

in two of London’s most

historic areas. Sir John Soane,

the architect of the Bank Of

THE OLDCuriOSiTy STOP

Quirky collections and museums of

the strange

Clichés, noClassics,definitely

4. Afternoon tea

at The ritz

Fill your boots with

smart sandwiches,

pastries, cakes and

scones at The Ritz,

washed down with

your choice of 17 teas.

theritzlondon.com/tea

5. Sunday roast

This national

institution has long

been the signature

dish of Simpsons-In-

The-Strand. simpsons

inthestrand.co.uk

6. V&A Museum

In a vast, eclectic

range of art and

design, you can

currently see Beatrix

Potter’s charming

botanical artwork.

vam.ac.uk

1. The London Eye

Londoners love this

view of the heart of

the city. The new ‘4D’

experience adds

more to the ‘flight’.

londoneye.com

2. St Paul’s

Cathedral

After 15 years under

scaffolding, Sir

Christopher Wren’s

masterpiece has

re-emerged, better

looking than ever.

stpauls.co.uk

3. London buses

There are still two

‘heritage routes’

with Routemasters:

9 (Olympia–Aldwych)

and 15 (Trafalgar

Sq–Tower Bridge)

tfl.gov.uk

The Museum

of London

Take a flight on

the London Eye


D e s t i n a t i o n s e c r e t l o n d o nA

LA

MY

Words Arabella Dickie, Jane Fulcher, Tanya Jackson, Chris Madigan, Rosie Steer

England, amassed a large

collection of antiquities in

his house bordering Lincoln’s

Inn Fields. Sir John Soane’s

Museum includes bronzes

from Pompeii and an

Egyptian sarcophagus plus

Hogarths and Canalettos.

In another historic house on

Folgate Street, Spitalfields,

Californian Dennis Severs

created a ‘still-life drama’

of a family living through the

18th and 19th centuries.

soane.org; dennissevers

house.co.uk

The Clink

Fan of the Horrible Histories?

This building was once

the prison that gave us the

slang term ‘in the clink’.

Housing miscreants from

the surrounding borough of

Southwark between 1144

and 1780, the Clink has a

terrible past of abuse and

torture, told on a tour of

claustrophobic corridors and

chilling chambers – you may

want to cheer yourself up

afterwards at the bustling

nearby Borough Market.

clink.co.uk

Museum of London

A hive of activity, this

museum tells the city’s story

in fascinating detail from

prehistoric times, through

Roman occupation, the

Middle Ages, civil war, plague

and fire to the trendy, high-

tech metropolis of late.

museumoflondon.org.uk

Museum of Brands

A labour of love, a place of

worship, the result of an

obsession — however you

describe this museum, in a

mews in Notting Hill, it is a

remarkable range of objects

that show the development

of branding, packaging and

advertising for some of the

world’s most popular

products — and others much

loved and sadly missed.

museumofrands.com

Experimental

Cocktail Club

Through an incongruous,

unmarked door in Chinatown

is one of London’s chicest

bars. Speakeasies are all over

the capital, but this is one of

the best, with an unusual

location (no one goes drinking

in Chinatown). Attentive and

knowledgeable staff here

make original, killer cocktails.

experimentalcocktail

clublondon.com

Absinthe Bar

Follow the green fairy to

Knightsbridge’s award-

winning and stylish

Brompton Bar & Grill, which

now houses the city’s first

absinthe bar. They serve the

spirit both in the traditional

way, mixed with ice water,

and in contemporary or

classic cocktails.

bromptonbarandgrill.com

Pollen Street Social

Chef Jason Atherton’s first

solo venture in London is

notable not only for its chic

design, interesting modern

art and exquisite, inventive

cuisine but also for featuring

the capital’s first dessert bar.

Pastry chefs prepare

mouthwatering dishes in

front of the lucky few that

can bag stools at the counter.

pollenstreetsocial.com

Zetter Townhouse

The new sister hotel to the

nearby chic Clerkenwell

favourite The Zetter is a

pleasing mix of eccentricity

and five-star luxury. The

13 rooms are as indulgent

The pound is used in British

territories, including South

Georgia and British Antarctica

It is the oldest currency in

use, dating back to the 8th

century when 240 silver

pennies weighed one pound

Common slang terms for it

include ‘quid’ and ‘knicker’

In east London, five ATM

machines offer Cockney (old

London rhyming slang) as a

language. Don’t forget your

four-digit ‘Huckleberry Finn’

Sterling workTravelex currency tips about

the British pound

nigHTS OuT, nigHTS in

The capital’s best new hotels, bars & restaurants

The Cocktail bar at

Zetter Townhouse

36

as those in any top hotel but with added character. And the hotel’s bar is gaining a reputation for its delicious cocktails, themselves an homage to Dickensian London, inspired by old recipes for herbal tinctures and bitters, served at an apothecary-style counter.thezettertownhouse.com

Brunswick House Café

housed inside an architectural reclamation building, Brunswick house café is a little-known gem in Vauxhall. Serving up small plates of delicious, original, carefully sourced British fare

alongside excellent cocktails and surrounded by beautiful antiques, knick-knacks and oddities – all for sale – this is a South London Aladdin’s cave to treasure.brunswickhousecafe.co.uk

Corinthia Hotel London

A fantastic new addition to the city’s luxury hotel scene, the corinthia is minutes away from trafalgar Square. With striking Belle Époque design, charming service, spacious rooms and two world-class restaurants: Massimo and the northall, this hotel is set to become a landmark.corinthia.com

Street food

What’s that: you eat in restaurants? that are always in the same place? how 2010. the eateries creating the biggest buzz in the capital are not Michelin-starred celeb dining rooms, but gourmet street kitchens (such as @streetkitchen itself) with changing locations, daily specials, and fans who argue online about which is ‘the best burger you’ll ever taste’ (it’s @meatwagon, by the way). For who’s where when, follow @eatstreet on twitter

Queen Elizabeth Hall

Roof Garden

In the concrete expanse of the Southbank arts centre, a garden has sprung up above the Qeh to mark the 60th

anniversary of the Festival of Britain. Designed by eden Project landscape architects, it has vegetable plots, a daisy-covered lawn and wild flowers. Until 4 September. southbanklondon.com

Pop-up Peckham

Some may know it as the home of ‘Del Boy’ trotter in Only Fools and Horses; few will know it as a hotbed of pop-up chic. the best example is atop the multi-storey car park next to the cinema at Peckham rye – walk past artwork displays to Frank’s campari Bar, with its surprising views of the city. frankscafe.org.uk

Secret Cinema

Bored of multiplex picture houses? Adventure and surprise await film fans in London via organisations like Secret cinema and the nomad cinema. At the former, you don’t know the film you’ll be seeing till you arrive and get clues from costumed staff and pre-film activities. the nomad pops up at fitting venues such as the Queen

tHE PoP-uPMEtRoPoLIS

The trend for the temporary, oddly,

is here to stay

Greenspaceswith roomto move

used exclusively

for monastical

contemplation. Now

anyone can pause to

enjoy the peaceful

green surroundings.

3. Parkland Walk,

N4 to N22

The leafy walkway,

on a disused railway

line in north London,

from Finsbury Park

to Alexandra Palace,

is home to more than

300 species of wild

flower and a diverse

range of animal life.

4. Morden Hall Park,

Morden, Surrey

This suburban

escape is part of the

Morden Hall estate.

1. Crystal Palace

Park, SE20

A Victorian Jurassic

Park, Crystal Palace’s

‘Dinosaur Court’ is

home to life-sized

(wildly inaccurate)

sculptures of

prehistoric animals.

2. Westminster

abbey gardens, SW1

Imbued with history,

the cloisters and

gardens were once

There’s plenty to

explore: historical

buildings, preserved

watermills and

a lovely, aromatic

rose garden.

5. Kyoto Garden,

Holland Park, W8

Created by specialist

Japanese gardeners

to celebrate the 1991

London Festival of

Japan, this garden is

beautiful, authentic

and one of London’s

most peaceful parks.

6. Queen’s Wood,

Highgate, N10

This area of ancient

woodland dates

from prehistoric

times. Now a nature

reserve, the forest

has a wonderful

diversity of flora and

fauna – particularly

considering its

proximity to the

centre of London.

7. Isabella

Plantation,

Richmond, Surrey

Richmond Park is

best known for its

deer. But hidden

away is a stunning

ornamental

woodland garden.

Designed to offer

stunning displays

year-round, the lilies

and irises will soon

give way to reddening

acer leaves.

Drinks at the

Candlelight Club

Dyouthinkhesaurus?

Crystal Palace


For a great deal on public transport and entry to London attractions go to heathrowexpress.com/london-pass

D e s t i n a t i o n s e c r e t l o n d o nA

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Mum’s old house for The

King’s Speech or a lido for The

Life Aquatic. @secretcinema

@thenomadcinema

Candlelight Club

Speakeasies and one-off hootenannies are enjoying a revival in the capital. one such is the candlelight club, which occupies buildings, lights the whole place with naked flames and creates a party with themes of betting on horses or a Great Gatsby-style weekend house party. thecandlelightclub.com

Pop-up playtime

Feeling playful? London often hosts performances like real-world video games, in which you are players. Join october’s Player festival at the Science Museum, run by @Trigger. or try Archipelago, a sort of architectural chinese Whispers across the capital. Intrigued? Follow thingsinabigcity.tumblr.com

Sissinghurst Estate

In the ruins of an elizabethan mansion near tunbridge Wells lies one of the UK’s best-loved gardens, the creation of poet Vita Sackville-West. the ten outdoor ‘rooms’ include the yellow and orange-themed cottage Garden, the nuttery and the Wild Garden.nationaltrust.org.uk/

sissinghurst

Cass Sculpture Park

this charity and open-air sculpture park covers 26 acres of fairytale woodland in West Sussex. the ever-

changing display of 80 monumental artworks for sale is mainly by British contemporary artists, such as Gavin turk, Anish Kapoor and Antony Gormley.sculpture.org.uk

Margate

the seaside resort of Margate in Kent is flourishing due to the new £17.4m turner gallery and boutique B&Bs. Stroll along the front, fritter away pennies in the arcades, recuperate in the Mad hatter tea Garden or the Ambrette, and explore the 2,000sq ft tunnels of the ancient, mysterious Shell Grotto.visitthanet.co.uk

Mersea Island

Alongside 17th-century fishermen’s cottages sits a gloriously unpretentious eatery, run by oyster fisher richard hayward and his wife heather. the company Shed sells seafood, including

smoked eel, crab and oysters, and nothing else. Bring some bread and wine, and tuck in.01206 382700

New Forest

National Park

Wild ponies roam and reign over this 220sq mile stretch of open heath and wild oak and beech forest, which also boasts a sea of purple heather at this time of year. It’s two hours from London, so you could stay over at the thatched Kingfisher retreat.newforestnpa.gov.uk

Rye

Pass along the coastal route to this former port in east Sussex – a jumble of cobbled lanes lined with Georgian, tudor and norman architecture. Boat down the river rother to Bodiam castle or venture out to rye harbour nature reserve or henry VIII’s camber castle.visitrye.co.uk HT

day tRIPS to SavouR

Countryside capers and seaside frolics

near the capital

From plane to car and straight

to London – there’s no easier

way to start your adventure

You’ll be at liberty to explore

the great many attractions

that await you just a short

drive out of London

Choose from Hertz, Avis,

Europcar, National, Enterprise,

Alamo, Budget and Sixt

For more details, check out

heathrow.com/hire

Take the wheelhire a car at heathrow andenjoy the freedom of theopen road from start to finish

Take the sea air

at Margate

2

1

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I S L A N D R E T R E A T SD e s t i n at i o nDesert islands have evolved from the ridiculously tough to the sublime since Daniel Defoe wrote Robinson Crusoe in 1719, and now combine naturalwonders and luxurious accommodation into holidays that aim to create the ultimate time out from the daily grind. Cannibals not included

For total seclusion, surrounded byshimmering seas, a remote islandretreat offers blissful isolation

1. Havelock IslandANDAMAN ISLANDS

Home to ‘the best beach in

Asia’ (TIME magazine) Havelock

shows off the finest elements

of the Andaman Islands in

one location: towering jungle,

emerald waters, elephants,

and big, big fish. Kayak

through mangrove creeks,

snorkel the reefs in search

of elusive dugongs, or go

Crusoe for the day on a nearby

deserted island. Staying

in a thatched cottage in the

rainforest is a guaranteed

stress-buster.

responsible travel.com

British Airways, Air India

2. Parrot CayTURKS & CAICOS

The hands of time ease to a

halt at this oasis in the northern

Caribbean fringed by white

sand and translucent seas.

The chic, whitewashed

accommodation includes

beachside villas with private

pools and Balinese day beds

– one of several Asian touches.

For complete relaxation,

COMO Shambhala Retreat

offers Eastern therapies

such as acupuncture and

shiatsu to aid your passage

to nirvana.

parrotcay.como.bz

British Airways

FantasyIslands

Words Arabella Dickie

3 5 6

4

For detailed airport and flight information, go to heathrow.com/destinations

3. Rangali IslandTHE MALDIVES

Nestled in a lagoon, this private

resort spans two isles lined

by palm trees and linked by a

wooden bridge. Arrive in style

in a seaplane over the coral

reef before settling into island

life in one of the beach villas,

or take the wooden walkway

to the stilted villas (which will

reopen in November after

refurbishment) over the azure

Indian Ocean. Indulge in the

world’s first all-glass, undersea

restaurant and take your pick

from numerous spa therapies.

conradhotels1.hilton.com

Sri Lankan Airlines

4. Wilson IslandAUSTRALIA

Pristine and utterly secluded,

pint-size Wilson Island is the

Great Barrier Reef as nature

intended. Designer-inspired

tent accommodation (for

a maximum of 12 guests)

offers panoramic ocean views,

resplendent with breaching

humpback whales in the

migratory months. A wildlife

haven, the island is sanctuary

to more than 40,000 birds

and the isolated idyll is

complete as there is no

mobile-phone coverage!

wilsonisland.com

BA, Qantas, Virgin

6. Song SaaCAMBODIA

In the untouched Koh Rong

Archipelago lies Cambodia’s

first-ever private island resort,

Song Saa (Khmer for ‘The

Sweethearts’). Spanning two

islets linked by a footbridge,

the resort, which opens in

February 2012, will feature a

spa suspended in the rainforest

and 27 eco villas with private

verandahs and plunge pools.

Think high-level luxury with

environmental consciousness.

songsaa.com

BA, EVA Air, Singapore

Airlines, Thai Airways

International, Qantas

5. Kamalame CayTHE BAHAMAS

Several pastel-coloured

Bahamian cottages, a

freshwater pool and Balinese-

style spa make up this private

island hideaway. The Great

House serves as a chilled

meeting place for meals and

cocktails. This is a relaxing,

technology-free zone — and

who needs television when

the view through the muslin-

draped French doors is of

flowering tropical foliage and

the glittering ocean, teeming

with manta rays and parrotfish?

abercrombiekent.co.uk

British Airways

1. Getting close to nature on

Havelock Island 2. Parrot Cay’s

infinity pool 3. Rangali’s ‘Quiet

Zone’ pool 4. A loggerhead turtle,

native to Wilson Island 5. Fishing

near Kamalame Cay 6. Song Saa


4 040

D e s t i n at i o n N E W Z E A L A N D

Whether you’re going for the rugby or don’t know your hooker from your haka, the home of the All Blacks will provide more breathtaking moments and adrenaline rushes than you could hope for in a holiday. Follow our route from Auckland to Otago

Words Will Hide

There will be somestunning action at the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand – but, says Will Hide, the players will be hard

pressed to match the spectacle that is the host nation

New Zealand co-hosted

(and won) the first Rugby

World Cup in 1987. Now,

24 years on, the country

where the sport is in every

Kiwi’s DNA will welcome

the rugby world again.

For six weeks, thousands

of fanatical supporters – in

Peak performance

kilts, carrying inflatable leeks

or slurring good-naturedly

through a medley of ‘nkosi

Sikelele Swing low Sweet

matilda of athenry’ at

midnight – will journey to the

land of the long White cloud.

While the focal point will

be the match-hosting cities,

such as auckland, Wellington,

new plymouth and dunedin,

it’s the country’s great

outdoors and adrenaline-

inducing range of activities

that will be the big draw for

visitors before the kick-off of

the opening match – and

long after any last-minute

drop-kicks. additionally, the

Real new Zealand Festival,

which runs simultaneously

with the Rugby World cup,

celebrates Kiwi food and

wine, culture and heritage,

giving visitors a chance to

experience the finest the

country has to offer.

Auckland CoromandelPeninsula

WhanganuiNat. Park

Wellington

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Air New Zealand flies direct to Auckland; Emirates flies via Dubai. For details, see heathrow.com/destinations


Opposite: Mitre Peak rises

from Milford Sound.

This page, from top: Sailing

an America’s Cup yacht;

NZ’s native woodland in

Pureora Forest Park

If Auckland is your first

port of call, there are thrills

to be had before heading

off into the wilderness,

whether it’s leaping off the

Sky tower from 192m above

street level (skyjump.co.nz),

sailing an america’s cup

yacht (explorenz.co.nz),

going on a surf safari to the

black sands of nearby piha

(newzealandsurftours.com)

or diving in the Hauraki Gulf

(goatislanddive.co.nz).

if you prefer not to fling

yourself around, a short ferry

ride takes you to Waiheke

island (waiheke.co.nz),

where you can chill out with

a Viognier at cable bay

(cablebayvineyards.co.nz) or

mudbrick (mudbrick.co.nz),

and gaze at the city skyline

shimmering over the waters.

the laid-back coromandel

peninsula, east of auckland,

is where urbanites come to

feel the sand under their

jandals (flip-flops) and grab

a frosty brew from the chilly

bin (aka cooler). locals also

head to Hot Water beach

near Whitianga (mercurybay.

co.nz) where at low tide,

mineral-rich water rises

through the sand, creating

a natural spa.

driving south, past the

bubbling mud and sulphur of

Rotorua (rotoruanz.com) and

taupo (greatlaketaupo.com),

where you can scare yourself

silly with heli-biking and sky

diving, you reach the ski fields

of Whakapapa village on the

sides of volcanic mt Ruapehu

(mtruapehu.com), where

lifts run until mid-october.

peter Jackson’s Hobbiton

was created in the contorted

hills of central north island

and you can explore them

with a maori guide (pure

orawalks.com). or hike the

tongariro crossing (adriftnz.

co.nz), soak in a thermal pool

at tokaanu (nzhotpools.co.nz)

or cycle the old coach

Road to ohakune

(tcbskiandboard.co.nz).

Further west, past

Whanganui national park,

lies the surfer’s town of new

plymouth (taranaki.co.nz) in

the shadow of snow-capped

mt taranaki, and 300km to

the south is Lonely Planet ‘s

‘coolest little capital in the

world’, Wellington (wellington

nz.com). the hype is justified.

as well as more hip bars

around cuba Street than you

can shake an emo haircut at,

the city has a cafe culture

to match Seattle, plus

world-class attractions

such as the te papa

museum (tepapa.govt.nz)

and wildlife sanctuary

Zealandia (visitzealandia.

com). and then there are

the storms that barrel

through the cook Strait

and knock you sideways.

Hold on to your hat.

North IslaNd

Heli-biking, sailing, volcanoes, DIY spas

and hobbity hills

42

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D e s t i n a t i o n N E W Z E A L A N D

If North Island leaves you

agog, its wild sister awaits

with a knowing grin.

it must be said though,

that flying into Christchurch,

(christchurchnz.com) ‘the

most english city outside

england’ can trick newcomers

into thinking otherwise.

nevertheless, this charming

city is a convenient gateway

to the rest of the lush

Canterbury district.

the stadium Christchurch

rugby world Cup matches

have been moved to other

venues and parts of the

downtown area of the city

remain off-limits following

february’s earthquake, but

there are still plenty of hotels

and attractions open and in

need of your business.

if you’ve sailed to south

island on the wellington ferry,

though, the first dilemma is

whether to linger in the

marlborough wine region

(lovemarlborough.co.nz) and

then head down to kaikoura

on the east coast for a spot of

whale and dolphin watching

(kaikoura.co.nz), or west to

kayak in abel tasman

national park (abeltasman.

co.nz). if you plump for the

latter, you can potter down

South ISland

Whale-watching, kayaking, skiing,

wine and penguins

This page: Sea-kayaking

in Abel Tasman National

Park. Opposite, from

top: Camping on Moke

Lake; Abel Tasman

National Park

the rugged west coast to the

cracking franz Josef and fox

Glaciers (foxguides.co.nz),

where on a clear day you’ll

also get awesome views of

3,755m-high mt Cook.

to the south lies the

pretty lake wanaka area

(lakewanaka.co.nz). it’s home

to great ski fields at Cardrona,

treble Cone, snow farm and

snow park, and also provides

a base for other activities,

from ‘white-water sledging’

and quad biking to calmer

pursuits, such as scenic

Marlborough

Abel TasmanNat. Park

Queenstown

Franz Josef Glacier

Otago Peninsula

H e at h row Trave l l e r 4 3H e at h row Trave l l e r 4 3

new zealand’s currency is the new zealand dollar

you must declare on arrivalor departure if you arecarrying more thannz$10,000 in cash

the reverse of each of the banknotes features a different nz native bird, with the name in maori

as a member of theCommonwealth, all the coinsfeature Queen elizabeth ii

£1 = $1.86 (1 august 2011).unfortunately, the poundsterling has been on adownward spiral against thenew zealand dollar over thepast five years. since 2006,the pound has depreciated by 33%, and around 6.5% in the past 12 months alone.this means that Brits going to nz will receive aroundnz$66 less for every £500exchanged compared to thistime last year

on the other hand, a pintwill cost you approximately£2.18 (pintprice.com)

travelex Cash passport™ is the only new zealand dollar prepaid currency card available in the uk that doesn’t charge for atmwithdrawals or purchases

biplane flights, fishing and

backcountry horseback treks.

if you begin to yearn for

the chic comforts of modern

life, the Cinema paradiso

(paradiso.net.nz), may be the

funkiest little picture house

in the southern hemisphere,

complete with sofas, airline

seats and even a yellow

morris minor to watch from.

an hour and a half’s drive

south, Queenstown is

indisputably new zealand’s

adventure and skiing capital

(queenstown-nz.co.nz).

if you’ve ever had the urge

to chuck yourself off a high

bridge, prevented from

knocking on the pearly gates

only by an elastic cord tied to

your ankles, this is the spot.

while kawarau, just

outside town, may be the

location of the original 43m

kiwi bungy, nevis, at 134m,

is the place to take the leap

of faith (bungy.co.nz). and

then if you’re not skiing the

remarkables (nzski.com) or

jet boating (shotoverjet.com)

you could try some mountain

biking (nzcycletrail.com),

canyoning (canyoning.co.nz)

or paragliding (nzgforce.com).

from Queenstown, head

west to milford sound, with

its cliffs and waterfalls, or

hike along the milford track

(doc.govt.nz) before heading

east to dunedin, which will

be england’s rugby team’s

base (dunedinnz.com).

this small city gets its buzz

from its student population

(being the home of speight’s

brewery doesn’t hurt either).

there are bars and cafes

around the ‘square’ known

as the octagon, and you

can try running up and down

Emirates flies to Christchurch via Dubai. For details, see heathrow.com/destinations

travelexcurrency

tips

Baldwin street, said to be

the world’s steepest, in

under 1 minute 56 seconds

to break the record. throw

in some surfing on st Clair

beach and a day trip to the

raw beauty of the otago

peninsula, with its penguins

and seals (natureswonders.

co.nz), and you may find

yourself spending longer

here than you’d anticipated.

which is a good way to

approach new zealand in

general. ‘sweet as, bro’ is

the local mantra, the kiwi

take on ‘no worries’. and

whichever team ends up

victorious at eden park on

23 october, and whenever

you choose to visit, new

zealand is a pretty sweet

place to explore. HT

Will Hide flew with Emirates

(emirates.com) — daily flights

to Auckland on the Airbus

A380 and to Christchurch,

both via Dubai. For more

information on New

Zealand, visit newzealand.

com, rugbworldcup.com

and realnzfestival.com

©2011 Rosetta Stone (UK) Ltd. All rights reserved. Patent rights pending. UK-0711-20

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H e at h row Trave l l e r 4 5Words Henry Farrar-Hockley Photography Beate Sonnenberg

Te c h S u n g l a s s e s D e s t i n a t i o n f a s h i o n M a k e -u p Fr a g r a n c e

Celebrity-endorsed technology is usually a reliable measure of a product’s lack of quality

(if it’s good enough, you generally don’t need an A-list name to persuade customers of its

worth). One notable exception is Beats by Dr Dre, the prestige audio brand that benefits from

the significant input of the venerated hip-hop producer Dr Dre. The marque’s flagship Studio

headphones are a case in point: supremely comfortable, with studio-quality playback, they

also feature active noise-reduction circuitry to filter out unwanted sounds – be they those of

aircraft engines or over-talkative passengers. Beats by Dr Dre Studio High Definition Powered

Isolation Headphones, £245.61, from Heathrow’s Dixons Travel

HeARme nOw

Recording-studioquality, for your

ears only

T h e l o u n g e

4 6 Fashion Arabella Dickie | Illustrations Samuel Rhodes

f a s h i o n

TickeTTo ride

Whether you’re flying

to a beach resort or a

busy city, heathrow’s

stores offer all you need

for a top trip

1. Accessorize ‘Ditsy’ back bow trilby £17.02 High Street £20 2. French Connection Orchid dress £114.89 High Street £135

3. Tie Rack block-edged sarong £7.99 4. Accessorize ‘Gallic Knot’ sandals £23.82 High Street £28 5. Mulberry multi-charm

bracelet in pale gold £166.67 High Street £200 6. Paul Smith floral-print swimsuit £82.51 High Street £99

1

3

4

5

6

2

Crete Relax into island life with

lightweight, floral-inspiredbeachwear that complements

the balmy, sun-filled days

T h e l o u n g e


san DiegoThis laid-back surfing town

calls for a wardrobe of brightcolours and comfort, withbeach-worthy accessories

12. Escada Sport top £165.83 High Street £199 13. Links of London

‘Sweetie’ signature 18ct gold ring £625 High Street £750

14. LK Bennett ‘Wilder’ dress £162.50 High Street £195 15. Chopard

quartz steel watch at Mappin & Webb £3,241.67 High Street £3,890

16. Kurt Geiger ’Belle‘ peep-toe shoe £144 High Street £180

7

8

9

10

11

7. Hackett v-neck jumper £45.73 High Street £55 8. Hugo Boss Green trilby

£40 High Street £49.99 9. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean

Chrono watch with steel and rubber strap £3,891.67 High Street £4,670

10. Hugo Boss Green shorts £63.99 High Street £73.99

11. Nike Solarsoft flip-flops from JD Sports £12.50 High Street £15

Buenos airesStand out from the crowd in

this lively metropolis byexperimenting with bold

hues and quirky prints

12

13

14

15

16

1

54

3

2

4 8

s u n g l a s s e s

Photography Beate Sonnenberg4 8

Wherever you travel,

pack the best in

classic eyewear

Shade up

1 Vogue embellished round sunglasses £90 High Street £108 2 Burberry check arm sunglasses £140 High Street £169 3 Tiffany & Co ‘Victoria’ cat’s-eye sunglasses with Austrian crystal £198 High Street £238 4 Prada rectangular frame sunglasses £158

High Street £190 5 Versace crystal detail sunglasses £151 High Street £182

6

7 8

10

9

T h e l o u n g e


6 Ray-Ban crystal gradient ‘Wayfarer’ sunglasses £100 High Street £120 7 Paul Smith ‘Chaucer’ sunglasses £150 High Street £180 8 Ray-Ban rubberised frame sunglasses £81 High Street £98 9 Persol square acetate sunglasses £179 High Street £215

10 Prada acetate sunglasses £158 High Street £190

5 0

c o s m e T i c s

5 0

Forget the obviously fake,

‘newsreader tan’ (that stops

at the neck) of bronzing

make-up past. The latest

bronzers will give your skin

the most authentic-looking

touch of colour, without

a hint of orange and no

stripes in sight. Even better,

you won’t have to wait until

the end of your summer

getaway to flaunt that

‘just back from holiday’

glow (and you’ll save

yourself any sun damage).

For easy, expert

application, opt for a

compact bronzing powder.

Mess-free and, so, ideal for

travel, they can be swept

on with a brush (one that’s

large and fluffy – the small

ones sometimes supplied

are far too fiddly, and can

be prone to cause streaks).

Matt bronzers give

the most natural-looking

finish, whereas shimmery

formulas are great for

adding a touch of evening

sparkle. Dust onto the

areas where the sun would

naturally hit your face: the

apples of the cheeks, bridge

of the nose, hairline and

(yes) even earlobes.

If you opt for a gel

bronzer, simply smooth

onto cheeks with your

fingertips and blend,

or mix a little with your

regular moisturiser.

The best bronzers to

give your skin a safe,

sunkissed look

Touch&gLow

Words Jenni Baden howard

T h e l o u n g e


A d v i c e

All items available at World Duty Free

Jon

At

hA

n F

en

n

Cream of the CropAt home or away, these sunscreens for face and

body – available at World duty Free – are essential.

equally important, though, is how you apply them

All items available at World Duty Free

GoinG

for

Gold

these bronzers from World Dutyfree give a summery glow

Bobbi Brown

Bronzing powder

in Light (£20.40)

The most natural-

looking way to

glow. You just

can’t go wrong with

Bobbi’s original

bronzing powder.

maC Bronzing

powder (£14.88)

Beauty pros swear

by MAc bronzing

make-up. This

powder, part of

the new Bronze

Everyday range,

comes in matte or

shimmering shades.

Dior Bronze

original tan

Bronzing powder

in healthy tan

(£24.55)

Pure Parisian chic,

this sheer pressed

bronzer is embossed

with the Dior logo.

Sisley phyto-

touche Sun Glow

Gel (£40.40)

Smooth on instant,

sunny radiance with

this moisturising

bronzing gel. great

for the shoulders and

décolletage, too.

Givenchy mister

radiant (£20.50)

This new, ‘made-

to-measure glow’

contains bronzing

beads suspended in

a watery gel, which

disperse on the skin

to deliver a fresh,

radiant look.

Gene genius

Lancôme has

reintroduced this

hi-tech suncare range

for summer 2011,

following its huge

success as a limited

edition last year. the

formula is the result of

Lancôme’s in-depth

research into gene

activity and skin

youthfulness and the

damaging effects of

the sun on genes.

Lancôme Génifique

Sôleil Skin Youth

protector Spf 30 or

50 (£18.85) and Skin

Youth Body milk Spf

15 or 30 (£18.85)

pass the milk

the latest addition

to this classic French

range, this summery-

smelling milk seems

to melt on contact

with the skin,

shielding it with

UVA and UVB

protection. It also

contains Vitamin e

to nourish summer

skin, and pure

thermal plankton,

found in every

Biotherm formula,

from which the

company’s brand

name is derived.

Biotherm Lait

Solaire Spf 30 (£14)

Save face

Clarins is renowned

for its first-class

suncare range.

this specialist cream

combines serious

sun protection (it

also comes in a UVA/

UVB 50+ version)

with innovative

anti-ageing

ingredients, making

it a summer beauty

must-have. What’s

more, the glide-on

texture feels

absolutely fabulous

on the skin.

Clarins Wrinkle

Control Cream for

face UVB 30 (£14.15)

Guerlain

terracotta

Bronzing

powder (£29)

A 25-year-old

classic, this formula

comes in a nifty

compact, with

a range of shades to

suit all skin tones.

1 2 3

For the body, you need to apply the cream or milk liberally, covering

your whole body, before you head out to spend the day on the beach or

visit the local sights. It’s equally important that you remember to

reapply every couple of hours (and always after a dip, or breaking a

sweat). Don’t skimp on sunscreen for your face, either: use at least a

tablespoon, to ensure your face and neck are adequately covered, and

as with body sun protection products, reapply frequently.

Words Jenni Baden Howard Words Jenni Baden Howard52 5 2

f r a g r a n c e s

creating fine fragrances is

a centuries-old tradition for

this London perfumer

A FAMiLyAFFAiR

Nearly three centuries and

17 Royal warrants later, the

company is still run by the Floris

family. ‘Continuing our tradition

as a family business is so

important,’ says Tom Marsh,

a ninth-generation descendant

of founders Juan Famenias Floris

and his wife Elizabeth. ‘When I

Steeped in tradition, the British

perfume house Floris boasts a

heritage as romantic as the

fragrances themselves. The

flagship shop on London’s Jermyn

Street (number 89, if you’re

passing) is located on the site

of the original Floris perfumery,

which first opened in 1730.

xxxx xxxx

Words Jenni Baden Howard Words Jenni Baden Howard H e at h row Trave l l e r 5 3

summer

BreeZe

Clockwise from opposite:

Michael Bodenham, a

descendant of Floris’s

founder, working on

fragrance in the Sixties;

Floris’s granddaughter

Mary Anne and her

husband in the 1870s; the

shopfront; an 18th-

century formula book

All fragrances are available at World Duty Free

Choose a fresh, seasonal scent at World Duty Free

Prada Infusion d’Iris

eau de parfum 100ml

(£54.55)

This modern classic is

based on iris, with top

notes of orange blossom

and mandarin, a green

freshness and sensual

incense, vetiver and

sandalwood.

Escada Especially

Escada (£44.80)

Top notes such as pear

and ambrette seeds

combine with a sparkling

rose heart, sensual

ylang-ylang and a light,

musky base.

Sophisticated sunshine

for the whole season.

Marc Jacobs Oh, Lola!

eau de toilette

(£37.55)

This new fruity-floral

‘opens’ with

raspberry, has a heart

of peony and a sensual

base including vanilla.

Summer, bottled. Cartier Baiser Volé

eau de parfum

100ml (£74.28)

This long-awaited,

beautifully fresh floral

fragrance from Cartier

captures the complex

scent of the calla lily.

With a name that

means ‘stolen kiss’, this

scent is sure to evoke

the strongest feelings.

Bulgari Charms –

Rose Essentielle

25ml (£27.50)

Inspired by Bulgari’s

cut gemstones, this

handbag -sized spray

contains the delicate

Bulgari Rose Essentielle

fragrance, with notes of

rose, blackberry and

violet leaves.

Sisley Eau de Sisley

3 eau de parfum

(£75.20)

Uplifting cologne top

notes reveal an exotic

heart of purple ginger

and Chinese osmanthus

and an elegant base

featuring patchouli,

vetiver, vanilla and musk.

was at school, I spent my holidays

working in our factory, wrapping

soaps and pouring candles. Now

it’s my job to sell our products

around the world and I feel a

special connection to each one’.

Floris fragrances are truly

distinctive and have a timeless

appeal. ‘We’ve never been

influenced by fads,’ admits Tom.

‘We’re confident that the quality

and craftsmanship of our

creations will endure the test

of time. We can spend years

working on a fragrance.’

The range includes

many fresh, summery

florals, such as the

beautiful Cefiro (£52; eau

de toilette 100ml), a blend

of lemon, lime, bergamot,

mandarin and spicy notes of

cardamom and nutmeg, with a

jasmine heart and musky-woody

base. ‘It was inspired by the scent

of a warm, gentle breeze in a

Mediterranean courtyard,’ says

Tom. ‘It’s perfect to wear on a

balmy summer day’.

The Floris Private Collection,

created by in-house perfumer

Shelagh Foyle and produced in

small batches, is comprised of

the company’s most prestigious

fragrances. ‘It gives us a chance

to create unique compositions

using rare and unusual fragrance

oils,’ explains Shelagh. These

include Madonna Of The

Almonds (£72; eau de parfum

100ml), a beautiful, summery mix

of citrus notes, bergamot, lemon,

bitter almond kernel and

spices; the oriental, spicy-

sweet Amaryllis (£72; eau

de parfum 100ml); and

Wedding Bouquet (£72;

eau de parfum 100ml), a

white floral bouquet of

jasmine, orange blossom

and stephanotis with a

sandalwood and musk base,

created to celebrate the

marriage of the Duke and

Duchess of Cambridge.

‘Right now, we’re working on

a new fragrance to celebrate the

Olympics in 2012,’ reveals Tom.

‘We want to create something

that embodies the spirit of

Britishness to celebrate this

once-in-a-lifetime event’. HT

5 4

c i t y s p r i n tBusiness in Frankfurt and Düsseldorf Top tablets Munich’s beer gardens

Kathy Arnold onhow Frankfurt hasloosened its tie

Culturallyendowed

Clockwise from left: Frankfurt’s

telecoms tower; Römerberg, the

old city square that is a hub

for celebrations and relaxation

throughout the year

H e at h row Trave l l e r 55

With its heavyweight banks, trade fairs

and conference facilities, Frankfurt

am Main has long been a fabulous city

in whichto do business. But over the

past two decades, the city of Goethe

has traded some of its starched collars

and dress suits for something a little

more bohemian. Think fine art,

opera, half a dozen Michelin-starred

restaurants, tree-filled parks and

pedestrianised boulevards.

Despite its importance as one of the

world’s major financial and exhibition

centres, the city is relatively small and

very easy to get around. The airport is

minutes from the downtown area and

the integrated RNV system (trains,

trams, buses connecting the centre to

the airport, nearby villages etc) is

covered on day passes or a group ticket

(useful if you do business mob-handed).

In Frankfurt itself, the Messe, one of

the world’s leading trade fair grounds,

lies close to the business district, where

a giant blue and gold euro symbol on

Willy-Brandt-Platz marks the

headquarters of the European Central

Bank. It is one of some 270 banks here,

with a roll call including the European

Representation office for the Asian

Development Bank. Leading the home-

grown giants are Deutsche Bank and

Commerzbank, whose skyscraper

headquarters rival one another for

sleek elegance. It’s no surprise that in

this city of 680,000 inhabitants, some

72,000 – over 10 per cent – work in

the financial sector.

An emphasis on business and finance

is no modern phenomenon. Sitting

astride the River Main, a major tributary

of the Rhine, Frankfurt has been at the

crossroads of commerce for 800 years.

Its first international trade fair was held

in 1240; the Frankfurt stock exchange

dates back to 1585; and two centuries

later, Mayer Rothschild and his five sons

revolutionised banking as they

expanded their business across Europe.

The hub of the action is a hotel: the

Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof. Its

luxurious rooms host the decision

makers, its Michelin-starred Restaurant

Français feeds them in style, and even

at breakfast, the buzz is of clients and

contracts. For the mega marketplace

that is the annual Frankfurt Book Fair

(mid-October), the hotel’s lounge is

transformed into a champagne bar,

jammed with authors and agents

negotiating with publishers and media

moguls from around the globe.

High above the intensity of

Frankfurt’s business dealings is the

breezy, outdoor observation platform

on the 54th floor of the Main Tower.

From here, the panorama stretches

north to the Taunus Mountains, where

the most successful executives live in

posh villages, and southwest to the

football stadium. Around the tower

stands an array of skyscrapers unusual

in Continental Europe and gives rise to

the city’s nickname of ‘Main-hattan’.

Next to these is Frankfurt’s historic

heart, the cobbled, medieval Römerberg

square. Around it are landmarks in

German history: the cathedral where

kings and kaisers were crowned for 450

years; the childhood home of Goethe,

with the poet’s writing desk; and

Paulskirche. Known as the cradle of

German democracy, St Paul’s Church

housed sessions of the country’s first

elected parliament, 163 years ago.

But Frankfurt today offers more than

business and heritage. The 2006 FIFA

World Cup and 2011 Women’s World Cup

put it on the sporting stage. As for the

expanding cultural scene, there are

Worldpoints bonus

EARN BA MILES AT HEATHROW

WITH WORLDPOINTS

WorldPoints – the loyalty programme

that rewards passengers when they

shop at Heathrow and other BAA

airports – has partnered with British

Airways to enable members to redeem

points for BA Miles.Members receive

one WorldPoint for every £1 they

spend in shops, bars, restaurants and

car parks, and each point will now be

redeemable for one BA Mile. This is

in addition to other WorldPoints

benefits, such as discounts on car

parking, Heathrow Express bookings

and airport shop vouchers.

To become a WorldPoints member and

receive 100 complimentary WorldPoints,

visit heathrow.com/worldpoints

AL

AM

Y; G

ET

TY

IMA

GE

S: ©

TO

UR

ISM

US

+C

ON

GR

ES

S G

MB

H F

RA

NK

FU

RT

AM

MA

IN

HeatHrow traveller’s

cHoice

STEIGENBERGERFRANKFURTER HOF

Am Kaiserplatz

steigenberger.com/en

280 luxurious rooms, 41 suites,

Michelin-starred restaurant

EMMA METZLERAt the Museum for Applied Arts

emma-metzler.com

Inventive modern German dishes

HOLBEIN’S STädEL MUSEUM

holbeins.de

Asian/Mediterranean influences,

contemporary setting

CIGARRUMSteigenberger Frankfurter Hof,

1 Kaiserstrasse

steigenberger.com/en

Cuban cigars and 50 types of rum

22Nd LOUNGEInnside Eurotheum,

66-68 Neue Mainzer Strasse

innside.de

110m up, great for views,

cocktails and jazz

stay

eat

Drink

Lufthansa and BA fly direct to Frankfurt. See heathrow.com/destinations for details

5 6

c i t y s p r i n t

From top: Frankfurt’s

Museumsufer or Museum

Embankment; MyZeil

shopping centre

VILLA KENNEdY70 Kennedyallee

villakennedy.com

Century-old villa, 163 modern

rooms, fine Italian restaurant

JUMEIRAH FRANKFURT2 Thurn-und-Taxis Platz

jumeirah.com/frankfurt

Frankfurt’s newest hotel, with

218 guest rooms and suites

VILLA MERTON 12 Am Leonhardsbrunn

koflerkompanie.com/en/

Michelin-starred cooking, private

mansion ambience

concerts, theatre and opera, festivals

and major art exhibitions (kultur-

frankfurt.de). What used to be a

Monday-to-Friday city now blossoms at

weekends. On Saturday, shops are

bustling, particularly on the broad Zeil,

the main shopping street and one of the

major pedestrian areas. The green belt

of parks that follows the line of the

ancient fortifications is perfect for a

stroll, while the tree-shaded river

embankments attract runners and

rollerbladers, cyclists and families.

Museumsufer, on the southern bank

of the Main, rivals the museum quarters

of London and Vienna. Here, must-sees

include the Liebieghaus, with 5,000

years of sculpture from around the

world, and the Städel, home to one of

Europe’s most significant art collections.

Alongside are museums dedicated to

architecture and film, applied arts and

telecommunications. Behind

Museumsufer lies Sachsenhausen, a

suburb with apartments and villas, plus

trendy cafés, boutiques and traditional

taverns serving Apfelwein (cider).

More changes are afoot. Next up is

the shiny new home for the European

Central Bank, not in the financial district,

but in Frankfurt’s developing East End.

Following suit, entrepreneurial chef Kay

Exenberger has already opened his

Werkskantine restaurant (exenberger-

frankfurt.de) at the nearby Klassikstadt.

Talk to locals and you will hear how the

city has changed. Some highlight the

ever-improving food scene that now

offers light, modern cooking as well as

sausages and beer. Others point out

that the city, which prides itself on

being open-minded and used to

foreigners, is now one of Europe’s most

multicultural. The upshot is that, where

20 years ago, young people packed their

bags and left town on a Friday night,

now they pack their own city guides. HT

Kathy Arnold flew to Frankfurt with

Lufthansa (lufthansa.com), which

flies direct from Heathrow up to 11

times a day.

Words Paul Wade

5 8

c i t y s p r i n t

al

am

y

Striking architecture and a lively new quay giveDüsseldorf a cool edge on business

Harbour heights

From top: The Rheinturn

f rom across the water;

one of Frank Gehry’s

MedienHafen buildings

There is no better spot to appreciate

the ‘new’ Düsseldorf than from the

observation deck of the Rheinturm

(Rhine Tower), 170 metres (558 feet)

tall and overlooking the city’s hip new

MedienHafen, or Media Harbour.

The capital of the federal state of

North Rhine-Westphalia, Düsseldorf

is nicknamed the ‘Office of the Ruhr’,

because of its proximity to the country’s

industrial heartland. But, it is also the

hub of Germany’s advertising and

fashion industries – and the city itself

is clean and green, affluent and chic.

The Königsallee, known simply as the

Kö, is one of Europe’s grandest shopping

boulevards (koenigsallee-duesseldorf.

de). Hosting the 2011 Eurovision Song

Contest alerted foreign media to charms

that locals take for granted. after all, in

the mercer’s Quality of living Survey,

Düsseldorf is rated not only the No 1 city

in Germany, but also No 6 in the world.

much of that is down to the

imaginative redevelopment of the

MedienHafen. When the docks closed

down 30 years ago, the city fathers

were faced with two choices: raze the

buildings and start anew, or convert the

existing docklands into restaurants,

shops, homes and offices. They chose

a third way: creating a business area

featuring eye-catching buildings by

world-famous architects, while still

retaining the heritage of the old quay

walls, storage sheds and rail tracks.

The crowning glory was Frank Gehry’s

much-photographed trio of twisted red,

white and shiny aluminium apartments,

dating from 1999.

On a fine day, the quaysides are busy

with architectural walking tours and

fashion shoots. Indoors, some 700

businesses include creative software

and film companies, interior designers,

art galleries and fashion showrooms.

Vodafone’s German headquarters, QVC

TV and Ogilvy & mather advertising are

here, as is Germany’s business daily, Das

Handelsblatt. Düsseldorf’s fashionable

credentials were endorsed when Heidi

Klum presented a round of Germany’s

Next Top Model 2011 there. Press officer

Tanja Güss says, ‘The medienHafen is

the perfect place to work. With everyone

so close, it’s easy to network after hours.’

as for where to meet, the range is

wide and growing fast. For 15 years,

Roberts Bistro (robertsbistro.de) with

its ‘no credit card, no reservation’ policy

reigned. Now, new options include Lido

(lido1960.de), a stylish floating eaterie,

and the michelin-starred Berens am Kai

(berensamkai.de), serving modern French

cuisine. Two of Germany’s coolest night

spots, Club 3001 (d-3001.de) and Rudas

Studios (rudasstudios.de), are here.

and the new kid on the block for business

travellers is the Hyatt Regency

Düsseldorf (dusseldorf.regency.hyatt.

com), where high-tech facilities combine

with dramatic views over the city.

Back in 1988, the opening of the

shiny black North Rhine-Westphalia

Parliament building kick-started the

revamping of the harbour. Today, the

medienHafen has changed the face of

business life in Düsseldorf. In its virtually

car-free environment, old and new rub

shoulders. long-abandoned cranes

stand like art installations; a converted

malt house and Victorian villa offset

architect David Chipperfield’s studio

building and Colorium, Will Allsop’s riot

of mondrian-inspired colours and shapes

housing offices. most fun has to be the

‘Flossies’ – the larger-than-life, neon

figures that seem be climbing out of the

canal and up the walls of an office block.

It’s clearly party time in Düsseldorf. HT

Paul Wade flew to Düsseldorf with

Lufthansa, which flies direct from

Heathrow up to five times a day

British Airways and Lufthansa both fly direct to Düsseldorf


C i t y s p r i n t

British Airways and Lufthansa fly to Munich. For details go to heathrow.com/destinations

Words Chris Madigan

4 KLosTerBrAuerei AndecHs

Bergstrasse, Andechs

If you have time, a pilgrimage to Kloster Andechs

is a lovely way to spend a sunny day. Fifty minutes

on the S-Bahn to Herrsching is followed by an

hour’s walk to the monastery and its terrace

beer garden, with views over fields towards

Ammersee. Enjoy a concert in the baroque

church, as well as drinking a doppelbock (strong

dark beer) or two, with spirals of salted radish.

andechs.de

6 HirscHgArTen

Hirschgartenallee, Munich

Nymphenburg, with its baroque villas and vast

green spaces, is well worth a visit. As well as the

palace’s formal park and gardens, there is the old

hunting ground, the Königlicher Hirschgarten.

Nowadays the deer are safe from royal weapons;

visitors can just watch them as they (the visitors,

not the deer) head to Europe’s largest beer

garden, and Munich’s most family-oriented one.

hirschgarten.com

1 cHinesicHer TurM

englischer garten, Munich

The huge Englischer Garten, with its meadows

and woodlands, is both the lungs and heart of

Munich. However, as naturist sunbathing is

allowed here, it may be other body parts you spot

first. In one of the most popular beer gardens,

beneath the Chinese pagoda, Hofräu beer is

served. There is also an upmarket restaurant.

chinaturm.de

2 AugusTinerKeLLer

Arnulfstrasse, Munich

The city’s finest helles (lager) is probably

Augustiner’s Edelstoff – and they do a pretty

mean dunkelbier (dark beer), too. Augustiner’s

railway-side location may not seem promising,

but in fact it has a tranquil garden with a canopy

of chestnut trees. Accompany your beer with

brezen (soft pretzels) and half a roast chicken.

augustinerkeller.de

5 WeiHensTepHAn BreWery

Weihenstephanerberg, Freising

Founded in 1040, Weihenstephan can claim to

be the world’s oldest continually operating

brewery. Located in Freising, it is handier for the

airport than the city-centre beer gardens. Work

up a thirst with a 20-minute woodland walk up

the hill, and be rewarded with a lovely terrace

beer garden overlooking the countryside and

town. They also do a fascinating brewery tour.

weihenstephaner.de

3 pAuLAner AM nocKHerBerg

Hochstrasse, Munich

Paulaner’s Braühaus in the centre of town has

a great reputation for its onsite-brewed beers:

its hefeweizen (cloudy wheat beers) are among

the best in the world. However, it only has a

small beer garden, so to enjoy a speciality beer

in the sun (particularly the Nockherberger, only

available here), go to the Paulaner beer garden.

nockherberg.com

Drink in the sunMunich is famous for its Oktoberfest. But if you prefer your beer without an 18-year-old

backpacker falling in it, a relaxing beer garden is better than a messy festival tent

6 0

c i t y s p r i n t

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley Photography Danny Bird

2

HTC Flyer

With 32GB of expandable

memory, stereo speakers,

a camcorder and Wi-Fi printing,

this Android-powered tablet is

primed to keep you going around

the clock, while the inclusion of

a ‘magic’ touchpen lets you

explore your artistic side, take

freehand notes and even sign

digital documents. The result:

a versatile tablet for both

business and leisure use.

£555.55

3

Apple iPAd 2

Slimmer, lighter, brighter and

faster, the iPad 2 has thrown down

the proverbial gauntlet to its rivals

with its front and rear cameras,

9.7in LED display, multi-touch

controls and 10hr battery life.

Its other specs include a new

and improved iOS operating

system and an optional magnetic

screen cover that doubles as

a table-stand.

From £387.86 (16GB, Wi-Fi) to

£640.49 (64GB, Wi-Fi & 3G)

1

MotorolaXooM

Billed as a tablet for the ‘next,

next generation’, the Xoom runs

on Android’s bespoke Honeycomb

software, providing users with

access to hundreds of thousands

of apps (from email to 3D maps).

The 10.1in HD screen is the

ideal hub for viewing media

including ebooks and YouTube

videos, while web browsing is

a breeze because of the inclusion

of Adobe Flash support.

£444.44

4

BlackBerry PlAyBook

For BlackBerry addicts, this offers

the best of both worlds. Or, to put

it another way, instant syncing

with that email lifeline you rely on

24/7, combined with a 7in HD

touchscreen that’s great for web

surfing, watching films and playing

video games. And with a 1GHz

processor and 1GB of RAM, you can

hop between apps, messaging

and multimedia without delay.

From £380 (16GB) to £533.32

(64GB)

All products available at Heathrow’s Dixons Travel. Subject to availability

eASy PCPortable computing has never

been simpler, thanks to thenew wave of tablets

4

1

2

3

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The headphones that pioneered

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now use microphones both inside and

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Olympic diver Tom

Daley is immortalised

using wire mesh by

artist Nikki Taylor


Awards Airport News Olympics: London 2012 Food & Drink A Day in the Life

D E pa rt u r E s

WirepoWerOlympic art comes

to terminal 5

Nikki Taylor’s mesmerising

sculpture of Olympic diver

Tom Daley is now on display

at Heathrow’s Terminal 5

as part of an exhibition to

honour Britain’s top athletes.

Taylor works with wire mesh.

‘Its gravity-defying quality

allows me to explore my

fascination with the human

form, and capture its

movement and dynamism’,

she says. To create this

sculpture, she photographed

Daley from all angles, taking

detailed measurements,

then worked surrounded by

these pictures and live-action

footage to evoke the strength

and elegance of the athlete.

Sport and art are united

in this celebration of British

talent. ‘It is an honour and

tremendous thrill to be part

of it,’ affirms Taylor. The

sculptures, commissioned

by the Art at the Edge group,

are on sale to raise money

for the Youth Sport Trust

and Paralympics GB.

artattheedge.org

Illustration Samuel Rhodes words Rosie Steer, Tanya Jackson, Sarah Evans64 6 4

keep up to date wIth the aIrportHeathrow gets a new hotel, installs e-gates, and asks the neighbours round

hea throw news

heathrow welcomes the world You are invited to help us as host airport

more reasonsto stay over A new hotel and bar

come to Terminal 5

Early start? Why not begin

your holiday sooner and

check in at the stylish new

Hilton at Heathrow T5? Each

spacious room comes with

a 37in flat-screen TV, lavish

bathroom and triple glazing.

Book a treatment in the new

spa, follow it with dinner at

Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen (from

TV Chef Cyrus Todiwala), and

you have all the ingredients

for a perfect night’s sleep.

Elsewhere at Heathrow,

the Radisson Edwardian

Hotel has just added a dose

of West End style with the

addition of its new Bijou Bar.

To book one of these hotels

go to heathrow.com/book

t r e A t y o u r s e l f s o o t h e t i r e d f e e t w i t h a f i r s t o r C l a s s i c p e d i c u r e a t B e r e l a x s p a a n d g e t 3 0 p e r c e n t o f f a f i r s t o r C l a s s i c m a n i c u r e . W h y n o t t r y a B e u p a c u p r e s s u r e m a s s a g e a n d d i s p e r s e f l i g h t t e n s i o n ? b e r e l a x . c o m

The London 2012 Olympic

and Paralympic Games are

nearly here and Heathrow is

preparing to greet thousands

of athletes, sports fans and

journalists from around the

world. Now you can be part

of history in the making:

Heathrow is inviting you to

give a warm welcome to the

UK’s international guests.

The role of volunteers

will be to meet and greet

VIPs on their arrival at

Heathrow, which has been

awarded host airport

status, and then to oversee

their departure when the

Olympics come to an end.

Nick Cole, head of Games

2012 at the airport, said,

‘Heathrow will form the first

and last memory of visitors

to London 2012, so it’s

important that we find the

right ambassadors to

welcome our international

passengers. It will be

incredibly exciting work, but

also hugely rewarding and

an experience that will never

be forgotten.’

There will be a welcome

event at Wembley Stadium

for all volunteers, and they

will receive specialist training

at Heathrow. Volunteers can

select shifts and choose the

amount of time they can

devote to the programme,

as well as receiving special

perks and prizes.

If you’re interested in

volunteering, find out more

at visitteamheathrow.com

news In BrIef


D e p a r t u r e s

a greener heathrow Thinking about tomorrow, today

One of Heathrow’s key

priorities is to reduce its

carbon footprint, which is

why cooking oil from the site’s

many catering firms is being

converted into biodiesel.

With more than 250,000

people being catered for at

Heathrow each day, the safe

disposal of cooking oil has

always been a challenge.

It is important to ensure it

doesn’t obstruct pipes or

pollute water courses.

Converting the oil into

biodiesel both solves this

problem and creates a more

sustainable alternative to

using fossil fuels in diesel

vehicles. Of the 100 per cent

of waste cooking oil that is

currently recycled at the

airport, 85 per cent is being

recycled as biofuel – enough

energy to drive a car around

the Earth’s circumference

20 times – and the plan is to

increase this conversion

amount to 100 per cent.

In addition, charging points

for electric cars have been

installed at short-stay car

parks at Terminals 1, 3, 4 and

5. The move is part of the

airport’s collaboration with

Transport for London,

through the Source London

programme launched by the

Mayor to decarbonise the

capital’s vehicle fleet.

hour power

British Airways

has teamed up

with its partner

airline American

Airlines to create

an hourly ‘shuttle

service’ between

London and New

York during peak

travel times.

Previously,

the daily flight

schedule to NY

from Heathrow

left gaps of up

to three hours

between some

departures.

Passengers can

now catch a

flight every hour

on the hour,

between 13:00

and 20:00.

waste not…

Binned perfume

at security gates

may soon be a

thing of the past

with Heathrow’s

new ‘MailandFly’

service, which

gives passengers

the chance to

post their items

to anywhere in

the world. Trials

at T5 have been

positive. Charges

vary according to

size and weight.

easy arrivals

Heathrow’s new

e-Passport gates

offer an alternative

to conventional

passport checks.

Scanning your

e-Passport at the

barrier initiates a

face-recognition

check against

your passport

chip, then the

gate opens in

seconds. You

need to be over

18 and have an

e-Passport

issued by a

European

Economic Area

country. ukba.

homeoffice.gov.uk

M o n e y f o r n o t h i n g V i r g i n A t l a n t i c p a s s e n g e r s c a n n o w b e n e f i t f r o m 0 %c o m m i s s i o n o n a l l c u r r e n c y e x c h a n g e d a t A m e r i c a n e x p r e s s a t h e a t h r o wa n d e a r n o n e V A f l y i n g C l u b m i l e f o r e v e r y £ 1 . v i r g i n a t l a n t i c . c o m / c u r r e n c y

hea throw l i f e

Photography Sam Christmas interview Maria Yacoob66

a day in the lifeof heathrowairPortStowaway scorpions and Hollywoodstars’ mongrels are just a few of thecreatures that Heathrow’s animalattendants can encounter at work, as one of them explains


D e p a r t u r e s

I’m part of a team of 25 staff at the

Heathrow Animal Reception Centre.

We’re responsible for looking after all

the animals in transit through the

airport. Between 20 and 40 animals

come through our reception each day.

The best thing about my job is the

unpredictability. We handle a lot of zoo

transfers, so I see an amazing variety of

animals. A few days ago we had three

wolf cubs passing through on their way

to a conservation centre. Although

they were wild, the cubs had been

hand-reared so they were very tame

– and very cute.

Not long ago we had a fully

grown black rhino stay the night

with us. It had come on a cargo

plane from Australia, and was

headed for a zoo over here. We see

a lot of tigers and lions, quite a few of

which are circus rescues.

The only animals I’m not keen on are

spiders and scorpions. They’re sent to

the UK for zoos, or to be sold as

pets. They arrive in cases that hold

up to 200 spiders in separate

compartments. You wouldn’t

want one of those to open up!

The majority of our visitors

are pet cats or dogs in transit.

We have a fair few celebrity

dogs that we see once or twice

a year. My favourite is Kevin

Spacey’s dog – a little mongrel

terrier called Minnie. Orlando

Bloom’s black Labrador cross, Siddy,

is also a regular visitor. We don’t see

the owners though, as it’s the agents

who come to pick the dogs up. Because

animals have to be certified fit to travel

by a vet before they make their journey,

health problems are very few and far

between. But on very rare occasions,

pets do die in transit, just because

they’re old. And I have had to relay that

news to the owners. It’s heartbreaking.

Most of the animals that come to

see us only stay a few hours, but there

are those that stay a lot longer. If the

correct paperwork isn’t in place, we

can keep animals for a few weeks.

We also have some resident reptiles,

which we use for animal handling

courses. We’ve got six big snakes (all

pythons and constrictors), a caiman, a

snapping turtle and a gang of frogs.

There was even an instance where one

of our staff adopted an animal. It was a

stray cat that had been knocked down

by a car outside the airport. We brought

her in and the vet saw to her injuries.

My colleague ended up paying the bill

and taking the cat, which she named

Boris, home with her.

It’s very rare that animals are

smuggled in. There have been occasions

when someone has kept a tortoise in

their pocket through a flight, and one

horrific tale of someone stuffing some

birds into a tube and putting it in their

bag. But smugglers are more interested

in ivory and skins than live animals.

I have had to deal with a couple of

stowaways. And once, customs

stopped a man whose case had a

white powdery substance on it.

When they opened up the case

to look, the powder turned out

to be nothing, but a small brown

scorpion scuttled out from the

bottom of the case. I was called

to deal with it. I managed to

push it into a pot with a long

stick. When my manager

saw it he said it was a

very dangerous variety.

What does often

happen is companies go

over their quotas with

shipments of reptiles.

In those cases customs

deal with the excess

animals, but I know a lot

of them end up at a rescue

centre in Hounslow called

the Tropical Forest.

I’ve been here for 10 years

now, and a full-time animal

attendant can earn up to

£27,000. Staff changes

are few and far between.

Personally, I can’t see

myself anywhere else. HT

Ann Dallimore Animal Attendant atthe Heathrow AnimalReception Centre

Several snakes are

resident at Heathrow,

and are used for animal

handling training

re fre shment s

t5

t4

arrive

t1

t3

terminal 1

terminal 3

terminal 4

terminal 5

Key:

illustration Samuel Rhodes68 6 8

where to eat withyour children Travelling with members of your family? The Journey Team is on hand tohelp you get the most out of Heathrow’s fantastic food and drink offering

Andriana DubrovaHeathrowJourney Team

Travelling with kids presents

special challenges, but this

summer at Heathrow we’ve

pulled out all the stops to get

your holiday off to the best

start. Flight information is

easily obtained on the move

via the Heathrow App and

Twitter (twitter.com/

heathrowairport). At the

airport there are extra staff

for baggage collection, and

we offer a service where you

can reserve and collect baby

food and milk with your

other shopping (heathrow.

com/reserve). Here are my

top recommended family-

friendly restaurants and

cafés – from quirky settings

and fun games, to menus to

suit picky eaters, there’s

something for even the most

demanding of mini travellers.

Pret a manger

Fill up on Pret’s fresh,

natural fare before

check-in. There are

plenty of healthy

options for even the

fussiest of kids to

enjoy such as soups,

smoothies and

home-made treats.

caffè nero

Caffè Nero has its

own play area to keep

tots amused while

parents can sit back

and enjoy gourmet

coffee and authentic

Italian food in this

European-style

coffee emporium.

dining street

En route to gates 1-6

take a break in the

spacious and family-

friendly Dining Street

restaurant. Offering

traditional British

fare as well as kids’

deals, it’s the ideal

spot for a pit stop.

giraffe

Whatever your taste,

Giraffe’s global menu

and feel-good family

atmosphere is sure

to satisfy. Children

particularly enjoy the

fact that they can

eat with a view over

the runway.

Simply follow the coloured lines to discover

andriana Dubrova’s recommendations

for food and drink in whichever Heathrow

terminal you’re travelling through

take off

take off

take off

take off


dining streetFrom cooked breakfasts to quirky décor,

Dining Street boasts the best of Britain

See page 73 for a list of your eating and drinking options

the tin goose

Named after the first

all-metal aeroplane,

The Tin Goose is a

family-friendly,

kooky venue that

offers gastropub-

style food and a

children’s menu the

kids can colour in.

café rouge

Dine French style

chez Café Rouge,

located near the

entrance of T4. Enjoy

light meals from its

summer menu, while

kids’ offers and play

packs keep the wee

ones entertained.

the three Bells

Relax and unwind at

The Three Bells before

check-in. This bar and

restaurant has the cosy

feel of someone’s front

room, traditional British

food, quick and discreet

service and popular

kids’ offers.

gordon ramsay’s

Plane food

Watch the air traffic

below through the

all-glass front of

Gordon Ramsay’s hit

T5 restaurant. Kids

will be entertained

with plane spotting

and drawing packs.

D e p a r t u r e S

200there are more than200 classic Britishpictures adorningthe walls

5,000children enjoyedcolouring in thespecial kids’ menusover the past 12 months

40%the percentage of produce andpackaging recycled

30,000More than 30,000British breakfastswere served in thepast year — the mostpopular menu item

4,000Last year, it served4,000kg of bacon –that’s the weight ofsix old Mini Coopers!

Enter past the majestic

red horse and iconic

telephone box and take

your seat below the series

of photographs celebrating

classic British icons and

historic events. Welcome

to Dining Street – home

of British eccentricity.

Feast on the best of

British, from Spitfire ale

pie with creamy mash or

succulent beef burgers to

roasted English goat’s

cheese salad. Alternatively,

sample its Brick Lane

menu, which showcases

the diversity of cultures

and tastes the country has

to offer — the sweet potato,

chickpea and spinach curry

is a much-loved best seller.

Dining Street is located

in Terminal 4.

GATES 16-21

GATES 31-49

1-12 60-90

GATES 16-21

GATES 31-49

1-12 60-90

T e r m i n a l 1

7 0

a i rport map s

Find your wayaround the airportThere are more than 240 retailers at Heathrow, so, with so much choice onoffer, you might need a helping hand finding shops, eateries and, when it’stime to fly, your gate. Walk this way…

T e r m i n a l 4

T e r m i n a l 3

D e p a r T u r e s

H e at h row Trave l l e r 7 1 Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

59

59

Be Relax

Manicure and massage

T e r m i n a l 5

T e r m i n a l 5 b T e r m i n a l 5 C

72

Look out for the following stores in terminal 5c...

• Boots

• Starbucks

• WH Smith

• World Duty Free

Plus:• ATM

• British Airways

Customer services and more

D e p a r T u r e s


DirectoryNavigate your way around some of the best fashion,food and travel services that the world’s busiest airport has to offer with this A-Z guide

Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

M o r e t h a n w o r d s h e a t h r o w ’ s s t a t i o n e r a n d n e w s a g e n t w h s m i t h p l a n t o r e v a m p i t s s h o p s w i t h n e w s e l f - s e r v i c e t i l l s , m e e t - a n d - g r e e t e v e n t s a n d o l y m p i c G a m e s c e l e b r a t i o n s . s t a f f w i l l b e o n h a n d t o a s s i s t i n a l l a r e a s .

Shopping

2012 London Store

Accessorize

Bally

Barbour

Beauty Studio

Be Relax Spa

Boots

Burberry

Bulgari

Cartier

Cath Kidston

Chanel

Chocolate Box

Clarks

Cocoon

Collection

Dior

Dixons Travel

Ermenegildo Zegna

Escada

Etro

Fat Face

French Connection

Glorious Britain

Gucci

Hamleys

Hackett

Harrods

Hermès

HMV

Hugo Boss

JD Sports

Jimmy Choo

Jo Malone

Kurt Geiger

Links of London

LK Bennett

Shopping

Longchamp

MAC

Mappin & Webb

Michael Kors

Montblanc

Mulberry

Nokia

Omega

Paul Smith

Paul Smith Globe

Prada

Ralph Lauren Menswear

Reiss

Rituals

Roberto Cavalli

Rolling Luggage

Salvatore Ferragamo

Simply Chocolate

Smythson

Sunglass Hut

Swarovski

Ted Baker

The Perfume Gallery

Thomas Pink

Tie Rack

Tiffany & Co

Timberland

Tumi

Valentino

Watches of Switzerland

WHSmith

WHSmith Books

World Duty Free

World of Whiskies

FooD & Drink

AMT coffee

Apostrophe

Bagel Street*

Bridge Bar & Eating House

Caffe Italia*

Caffe Nero

Caviar House & Prunier

Caviar House & Oyster bar

Chez Gerard

Costa

Dining Street

EAT

Est

Garfunkels

Giraffe

Harlequin Alehouse

Huxleys Bar & Kitchen

Itsu

JD Wetherspoon

Pret A Manger

Gordon Ramsay Plane Food

Rhubarb

Starbucks

Strada**

Tin Goose

VBar

Wagamama

Yo! Sushi

currency

American Express

Thomas Cook

Travelex

ServiceS

Boingo Wireless

Internet

Shoeshine

Spit and Polish

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5cT1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5cT1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

* T3 stores closing 2 September

** Opening September

74 Words Phillip Watson

Sign of the times

The Transport font in

use at Heathrow during

the Eighties and (inset)

today’s airport typeface

BA

A P

ICT

UR

E L

IBR

AR

Y

F i n a l c a l l

Heathrow has always been

one of the most challenging

and complex environments

in the world in which to move

people around. Factor in the

demands of multilingual and

international passengers;

relatively restricted and

visually complicated spaces;

a large number of connecting

flights; and increased levels

of airport stress, urgency

and emotion; and you have

a potentially febrile mix.

The largely unsung art of

wayfinding, or signage, exists

to take the pain out of all this

departing and arriving. Over

the past 50 years, wayfinding

designers at Heathrow have

developed an ingeniously

clear, concise and consistent

system of signs, lettering,

fonts, symbols, arrows and

pictograms – information

that can be read quickly,

accurately and at an angle.

‘Airports, and Heathrow

in particular, are incredibly

visually complex places,’ says

Michael Wolff, former head

of wayfinding at Heathrow

and chairman of the Sign

Design Society. ‘Airport

wayfinding has to compete

with such things as shop

signs, airline logos, even the

physical details of fixtures

and fittings. Heathrow is so

information-rich.’

While Heathrow’s signs

have long been illuminated,

and are enhanced by a

striking colour combination

of black and yellow, it is the

area of fonts that has often

How is it you’re able to find your way through the airport quickly? It’s all down to the considered art of wayfinding

made the most intriguing

and important contribution.

From the late Sixties, the

airport’s signs used a radical

new font called, suitably

enough, Transport. Created

by Englishman Jock Kinneir

and South African Margaret

Calvert, the typeface was

initially designed to allow

motorway drivers to read

place names swiftly and

easily, from a distance, at

speed. It rapidly became the

standard font for a range

of international transport

bodies, including, in the UK,

British Rail and at Heathrow.

Heathrow changed its

signage font in 1992 to the

bespoke BAA Sign, a form of

the classical Bembo typeface.

The new font was, like many

successful typefaces,

functionally conspicuous

yet creatively subtle.

Prompted by the building

of Terminal 5 in 2008,

Heathrow now employs a

version of the Frutiger font,

which many designers

believe is the finest ever made

for signs and directions. It’s

the font of choice of public

institutions: universities, the

NHS, and especially airports.

In his engaging recent book

on fonts, Just My Type, Simon

Garfield acknowledges this

by nicknaming Frutiger as

‘World Airport’.

It’s possible the Heathrow

font will change again in the

near future, due to growing

exposure to all the fonts in

pull-down menus on

computers and tablets, and

the general ‘screenification’

of modern communication.

‘There is a fashion as well

as function element to

wayfinding,’ says Michael

Wolff. ‘They may rarely be

noticed, but fonts and sign

design deftly mirror the

feeling of the age.’ HT

PLANET OCEAN"Having left the water planet, with all that water brings to the Earth in

terms of colour and abundant life, the absence of water and atmosphere

on the desolate surface of the Moon gives rise to a stark contrast."

– Buzz Aldrin, astronaut

ww

w.o

me

ga

wa

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es.

co

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OMEGA BOUTIQUES • LONDON & MANCHESTER

HEATHROW AIRPORT T1 • BOND STREET • REGENT STREET

WESTFIELD LONDON • ROYAL EXCHANGE • TRAFFORD CENTRE

Heathrow Traveller Summer 2011

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