|Harper’s BAZAAR|141 - KHALID SHAFAR · designer brands,” Amina says. As well as providing physical buildings, O d3 will also serve as the licensing authority for its tenants

October 2013|Harper’s BAZAAR|141

talking pointThe

b u i l d i n g t h eF u t u R e O F FA S h i O nDr Amina Al Rustamani is the first member of Dubai’s Design and Fashion Council, the body charged with making the Emirate a world leader in the creative industries. She tells Bazaar editor-in-chief Louise Nichol how she intends to make it happen

140|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2013

Dr Amina Al Rustamani (on far right) with a cross-section of Dubai-based designers, from left: Nathalie Trad, Lamya Abedin of Queen of Spades, Khalid Al Qasimi and Ayesha Depala

Photography by SUSANNE SPIEL

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talking pointThe

f course I go shopping!” exclaims Dr Amina Al

Rustamani, the group chief executive officer of Tecom

Investments and the first member of Dubai’s Design and Fashion Council, the body responsible for steering the Emirate towards its ambition of becoming a major player in the global fashion industry. “I was just telling my boss, I think I’ll be broke with this new role.” She pauses. Reconsiders. “Don’t write that.”

Sorry, Dr Amina, but the fashion industry needs to know that it has someone who shares its passions championing its cause. With 10 business parks – including the likes of Dubai Media City, Dubai Internet City and Dubai Knowledge Village, across the Media, Education, Information and Communication Technology, Manufacturing and Science sectors – already under her wing, it’s hard to imagine where Dr Amina finds the time to hit the shops. But, as this summer saw the announcement of a sixth sector for Tecom, Design, you could say that shopping is now part of her job description.

As the government gears up to tackle the milestones it has set for the year 2020, including its Fashion 2020 commitment to increase the industry’s contribution towards GDP, Tecom is responsible for building the foundation of the strategy with the launch of Dubai Design District (d3), a new base for the creative industries. Set to open in January 2015 in a waterfront site close to The Dubai Mall and adjacent to Business Bay, d3 aims to house not only the regional headquarters for luxury giants such as LVMH and Chanel but also to provide a hub for the region’s emerging designers, providing them with the infrastructure and support needed to compete on an international playing field.

“Dubai hosts all these big brands and luxury brands, but in a fragmented way. And it’s more about the end of the value chain – retail, consumer interaction – rather than what happens before that, in terms of creativity, production, logistics and manufacturing,” says Dr Amina. Dubai Design District is looking to change that. And change it quickly. “What makes Dubai different is time. If you have a deadline, you’d better deliver on that deadline,” she says. “It’s very fast paced. Everything has to be done yesterday. I guess this is what makes it exciting.”

While Tecom has a proven track record in growing industries in the UAE – “when Dubai Media City was launched [in 2001] by His Highness, the only thing you could see here were government channels and newspapers. Now we have 1,800 companies, more than 65 TV channels, 300 titles and a workforce of around 20,000,” says Dr Amina – d3 represents the first of its projects that will also tap into tourism and aim to lure the wider public. Recognising that young designers in particular are in need of exposure to Dubai’s 10 million tourists, d3 will include retail, public spaces, boutique hotels, event spaces and a programme of pop-up shops and initiatives all designed to draw potential customers into a creative community. “Dubai Design District is more about the public. I see it as a global brand,” Amina explains. “I hope that it will be a destination recognised by international companies and designers as well as tourists. It’s a completely different offering to whatever we have developed so far as Tecom.”

The first element of d3’s remit is to build a business district for fashion brands to house their sales and marketing functions, showrooms and related industries, “Like Dubai Media City but tailored for luxury and designer brands,” Amina says. As well as providing physical buildings,

O d3 will also serve as the licensing authority for its tenants and regulate the industry, just as it does in its other sectors. This is something that Syrian designer Rami Al Ali, whose couture business has a staff of 42 across offices in Dubai, Paris and LA, welcomes. “The laws and regulations here are difficult, particularly with importing goods,” he says. “There’s also no protection for a brand and no legalisation for this profession, which makes it challenging to gain trust in the local market.”

With a proper legal framework in place, operating as a designer should become a lot more viable. In addition, the tax-free lure of Tecom’s free zone business parks represents a substantial carrot for global brands facing heat over tax issues in their domestic countries. So can Dr Amina foresee international fashion firms relocating from their current homes and setting up shop in d3? “Why not?” The ultimate goal, however, is more akin to the reverse. “Our success will be measured when we have a global brand that has emerged from Dubai Design District,” she says. When might that be? “Hopefully soon. I’ll tell you, this city is full of secrets. You go to Satwa, you go to Karama, you go to Jumeirah; you will see designers who are on the cusp of making it internationally but they say, ‘We struggle to do so, we want somebody to push us forward to make sure that we are global.’”

p until now, the region’s most noted designers have looked overseas for success; Elie Saab to Paris and Reem Acra to New York, for instance. The purpose of d3 is to nurture and retain Dubai-based talent. “Our focus is to push creative industries forward for Dubai by building a knowledge economy and

making sure we have the right base for companies to establish themselves here,” Dr Amina says.

Running her eveningwear business between London and Dubai, Marina Qureshi’s eponymous label has grown to five employees and six retail stockists since launching two-and-a-half years ago. She recognises that there is a shortfall of talent in the region. “Finding skilled and experienced employees can be a challenge here as Dubai is not yet a fashion capital. Most creative minds prefer the historic European cities, but that is something that is slowly but surely changing,” Marina says.

One designer who has recently returned to the UAE in a bid to ride the wave of the country’s reenergised design sector is Khalid Al Qasimi, whose men’s and womenswear line was previously based in London and has 11 international stockists in the UK, Russia, Italy and across Asia. The Emirati designer maintains that it was a strategic decision for him to launch his brand in a mature market first. “It was really important for me to reach a certain level, aesthetically and business-wise. The competition is really high in London so you’re constantly pushing yourself,” Khalid explains. He admits that he was initially reluctant to associate his brand with his roots in the UAE. “One of the reasons I didn’t want to classify myself as a Middle Eastern designer in the West was because of the taste level associations; a lot of drapery, a lot of bling. The industry likes boxing people. I wasn’t in a box and they kept trying to shove me in that box.”

It’s an unavoidable fact that the rest of the world views designers from this region as being good for sparkly red carpet dresses and not much else. “Designers originating from the Middle East need to prove themselves twice as much in order to gain credibility among

Dubai’s Design and Fashion Council, along with d3, encompasses multi-

discipline design. Here, Dr Amina consults furniture designer Khalid Shafar. Photographed on location at Media One in Dubai Media City, Mediaonehotel.com. Production:

Julia Maile. Set design: Victoria Waller. Styling: Charlotte Blair.

Make-up: Natasha Ahmed at Illumin8, Illumin8makeupstudio.com

U

“

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“In Dubai we are enablers. We give the right environment for companies to excel. If there will be a Dubai

brand it will come from one of the entrepreneurs”AMINA AL RuSTAMANI

144|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2013 October 2013|Harper’s BAZAAR|145

talking pointThe

international press and buyers,” says the Dubai-based Lebanese accessories designer Nathalie Trad. Indeed it was only when one of her pieces was worn by fellow designer Mary Katrantzou at the Met Ball that she was able to secure a retail stockist; her line is now sold in Harvey Nichols Dubai, D’NA Doha and Riyadh, and Fivestory in New York.

That said, Dubai provides an incubator like no other for fledgling businesses. “Being a pioneer is what Dubai is all about. There’s no room for impossible,” says the Emirati designer Lamya Abedin, whose abaya brand Queen of Spades has eight employees and five stockists. Zayan Ghandour, the co-founder of S*uce boutique and designer of Zayan the Label, which is stocked in 14 locations worldwide, says, “Dubai has a wonderful energy that affects each person who lives here. Everyone is encouraged to strive to realise their business dreams and aspirations.” It also provides a steady stream of fashion-hungry consumers, which is in itself inspiring for designers, says Marina Qureshi. “Keeping the demographics of Dubai in mind I can experiment with vibrant colours, cuts and embellishments to appeal to clients from all over the world,” she explains, “the market is immense and that’s where all the fun is.” Dima Ayad, the Lebanese designer whose label has five stockists, fully agrees. “This city pushes you to the limit,” she says, “The opportunities here are incredible. The tools to make it happen are the challenge.”

Most emerging designers agree that those missing tools centre around a lack of access to competitively priced fabrics and manufacturing facilities. “Sometimes a lace dress that I produce is more expensive than that of a global brand,” Dima explains. “Last year I was in Paris and I bought one roll of fabric for €60 a metre, while Lanvin bought 300 rolls for €20 a metre.” Lamya faces the same issue, saying, “The minimums that mills ask for is way more than I need for my collections,” forcing her to buy sample yardage – at a cost of up to 50 per cent more than fabric sold for mass production. It is issues like this that the Design and Fashion Council will look to tackle, ideally forging relationships with the big European fabric fairs and mills and working to negotiate better deals for Dubai-based designers.

Zayan says that if she could wave a magic wand over the infrastructure of Dubai she would create, “great production facilities that do not require huge minimum orders.” As Zayan and her contemporaries are acutely aware, becoming a successful designer relies as much on business acumen as it does on creative talent. More so, even. “Only upon launching Zayan the Label did I realise that the actual design makes up about 10 per cent of the entire process. The rest is all about production, sampling, quality control, shipping and selling,” she says. Khalid agrees, “It’s a business at the end of the day. It’s not an art. If you’re not selling

and you’re not getting returns on your product then it’s a failed business.”

Setting the right infrastructure in place will be key for the Design and Fashion Council, which, alongside Dr Amina, is made up of representatives from Emaar and the Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DTCM) as well as members from the industry itself, with funding granted by Dubai Technology and Media Free Zone Authority, which is in turn owned by Dubai Holding, run by chief executive officer Ahmad Bin Byat. “The Council’s focus is to build the industry in Dubai and have Dubai recognised at an international and global level as being a centre for design and fashion,” says Amina.

That the government is committed to achieving this aim is unquestionable. “Firstly, look around: retail is an important element that we offer tourists and businesses,” says Dr Amina. “Number two, Expo 2020 is all about innovation and d3 and the design and fashion industry is pretty much at the heart of all of this.” In an environment where Dubai’s bid to host the World Expo 2020 is spoken about as a done deal, Amina’s already feeling the weight of responsibility on her DvF-clad shoulders. “I get three or four calls a day from retailers and designers all wanting

to pitch ideas and see how they can help. The pressure is to get it right.” At the end of last month another GCC nation took strides onto the

global fashion stage with the launch of its own home grown brand. Qela, the luxury label conceived by Qatar’s Luxury Group, is designed to export a fashion vision infused with Arabic DNA to the rest of the world. Its launch follows Qatari investment in fashion businesses including Valentino, Anya Hindmarch and UK department store Harrods. Has Dubai been trumped by its neighbour in the style stakes, then? Absolutely not, says Amina. “Whatever we do collectively in this region is very important and beneficial for all of us. So to have that brand coming out of Qatar makes us very proud. It builds credibility for the region.” As for Dubai, “We are not into that business,” she explains, “in Dubai we are enablers. We build the right infrastructure, we give the right environment for companies to come and excel in what they do. If there will be a Dubai brand it will be from one of the entrepreneurs. Our approach and philosophy is different from what you see in other cities.”

But whereas Qatar is able to influence the aesthetic of Qela, and, one presumes, the companies it now controls – Valentino’s new modesty has been in part attributed to the conservatism of its new owners – Dubai is opening its arms to a group of creatives known for being agents provocateurs: fashion designers. Because while, as Dr Amina points out,

“There is huge hype about Islamic fashion and design,” there is also a swathe of the industry for whom pushing the boundaries of acceptability is par for the course. It’s hard to imagine the late Alexander McQueen abiding by UAE standards of decency, for instance. Amina aims to address the censorship issue in the same way Tecom has worked with the media, internet and film companies under its umbrella. “I see it like any other industry we have tackled so far. We have certain guidelines: if they respect them, then they are welcome, if not, then maybe it’s not the right place to be,” she says. “We don’t sit and censor. It’s more about establishing the relationship when we give the licence. We say: these are the guidelines, this is our policy, this is the expectation. We are giving you the opportunity to establish your business, given that you respect all this stuff.”

his month, Dubai’s fashion industry converges for Fashion Forward, a series of catwalk shows promoting emerging fashion designers from the region alongside a static showcase of accessories, as well as industry talks and debates. While many of d3’s potential tenants value the exposure that such

an event offers, not all are convinced that Dubai is ready for the final flourish of a fashion week. “I don’t think fashion shows are necessary right now,” says Khalid Al Qasimi, “it’s like icing with no cake. Trade fairs are where designers learn from buyers exactly what they want. Fashion shows just expand ego.”

Bong Guerrero, CEO and founder of Fashion Foward (FFWD), agrees that what is needed is more than simply catwalk presentations. “Previously, for a fashion designer in our region wanting to gain international exposure, there have been limited options. A section of rack space in a multi-brand boutique, or spots in other markets’ fashion weeks were up for grabs for the most talented and determined,” he says. “What Fashion Foward offers is a single, unifying platform for Middle Eastern designers to hone their craft and show consistent collections ‘at home’. Bringing designers together as a collective offers so much more impact and visibility than one designer going it alone. What FFWD also offers is the beginnings of a credible fashion community and industry – not just a series of catwalk presentations – but talks, discussions, industry debate and a dedicated time and space for these designers to learn from experts, and each other. We are seeing the Middle East emerging as a place that buyers, designers and media will look to as a viable market to travel to, and not somewhere that the occasional Middle Eastern designer will emerge from.”

How Dubai gets there might be up for debate, but one thing that everyone is agreed on is that the establishment of a viable design industry is long overdue. “We need to export Middle Eastern design talent to the West,” insists Khalid, who adds that the region is well-placed to birth the design talent of the future. “Inherent within our culture is a lot of passion towards design in general,” he says, “Arabs are very emotional people and when you are emotionally intelligent you are able to create.”

Now it’s over to d3 and the Design and Fashion Council to leverage that creativity.

Dr Amina Al Rustamani, centre, wearing Dior,

discusses the future of Dubai’s fashion industry

with potential d3 designers. From left: Zayan Ghandour, Amina, Lamya Abedin and

Khalid Al Qasimi

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T

“Our success will be measured when we have a global brand that has emerged from Dubai Design District”

AMINA AL RuSTAMANI

P L U S

2013fine

diningguide

tastethe

What are the ingredients of a fabulous night out? Celebrated

raconteurs and sultans of PR Dipesh Depala and Ayman Fakoussa lend

us their secret recipestyling by toRy WalleR

Photography by JUlIet DUNNe

the PeRfeCt

host

18|harper’s BaZaaR fine Dining|2013 2013|harper’s BaZaaR fine Dining|19

CReD

It h

eRe

CReD

It h

eRe

ot new Japanese restaurant, Kanpai, one of the new guard of souk al Bahar eateries to liven up Dubai’s

dining scene, was the setting for one spectacular evening. the hosts; Dipesh Depala and ayman fakoussa, owners of high profile PR agency, Qode, renowned for throwing the most fabulous parties and having the best black book in the city. Celebrating two years of stellar success, the boys threw an intimate dinner party and invited Bazaar along for sushi and giggles. the guests; all rare beauties and personalities of the beau monde, gathered to catch up on the gossip, and be one of the first to try the menu at Kanpai. the atmosphere; typically informal and vibrant, lent itself to much mischief throughout the night, while the food had a starring role of course; as the specialities were picked through by discerning chopsticks and duly devoured. Naturally, like all good dinner parties, the revelry carried on late into the evening, the camera capturing some of the best moments, both posed and candid. and when the candles had burned down to the wick, and the first guest began trailing out into the night, it was agreed - a sparkling time was had by all.

the gUest lIst:

Dana Malhas, Owner of Cream boutique, JeddahDoha Challah, Fashion Stylist

lashley PulsiPher, Communications Director, The Kempinski

aaMna Mani, EntrepreneurKhatChig MiKaelian,

Owner of Brand Consultancy, KatchKhaliD shafar, Furniture Designer

h

tastethe

KhalID shafaRThe best place to dine is at the grill bar in Zuma’s main dining area, but if I have a last minute dinner to arrange, I almost always go for Teatro at the Towers Rotana Hotel. My favourite cuisine has to be Turkish. I don’t entertain as much as I used to. I’ll occasionally invite friends home for dinner and make my signature roast shoulder of lamb. Really, with all these new restaurants opening in Dubai, that’s how I prefer to socialise with my friends. Favourite celeb chef: Yotam OttolenghiKhalid wears blazer by Barkers, shirt by Michael Bastian, belt by Prada

DaNa malhasLike many people, my favourite restaurant in Dubai has to be Zuma, but I’m a big fan of Italian food. As everyone knows I’m always entertaining – I love to serve Mexican tacos. As for my dress code for dinner it has to be chic and elegant but super trendy at the same time.Favourite celeb chef: Gordon RamsayDana wears dress by CREAM in Jeddah, top from Top Shop, shoes by Gucci, necklace by YSL

the meNU: startersEdamame

Seppuku - Sliced roasted duck salad seasoned with vinaigretteBushi – Prawn spring rolls

MainsNigiri Platter – Salmon, tuna, yellow tail,

seabass, eel and saba mackerelSekigahara– Tepenyaki grilled beef

Emperor Kaika – Grilled lobster with yuzumiso yaki sauce

Tokugawa – Charcoal grilled rib eye beef steak with a spicy aromatic Asian sauce

Daimyo – Crispy fried sliced chicken breast tossed in a garlic and pepper sauce

Katano – Stir fried mixed vegetables with garlic sauce

Steamed jasmine riceDesserts

Japanese green tea tiramisuFresh fruit carpaccio

The bar area is a smoky seductive setting for pre dinner drinks

Sekigahara beef steak

Doha ChallahIf I have to choose a favourite restaurant in Dubai, it’s La Petite Maison every time. It’s a typical answer, but the food and service never fail, and if I need a last minute table somewhere fabulous, I always rely on my AMEX concierge. I have a sweet tooth, and make a mean Oreo fudge cake – my friends love it. When dressing for dinner it simply depends on my mood that night; my style is quite eclectic, there’s no method to the madness.Favourite celeb chef: Nigella LawsonDoha wears Zara dress, booties and gloves by Chanel

Sharing platters create a fun yet intimate dining vibe

Girls just want to have fun and they did. Aamna, Dana

and DohaNigiri Platter

Chopsticks games were on the menu

Fan fun, adding props to your dinner parties will set a frivlous mood

20|harper’s BaZaaR fine Dining|2013 2013|harper’s BaZaaR fine Dining|21

1. Most important is a carefully chosen guestlist - a diverse mix of people on a similar wavelength. Differences in wavelengths can sometimes lead to a very strained and uncomfortable evening, and nobody wants that!2. With such a variety of health and dietary restrictions, try to select a restaurant that offers multiple options in order to minimize difficulty for your guests in ordering dishes that they know they will enjoy.3. Place guests at the table in a way that inspires interaction and sparks great conversation because of their different backgrounds, interests and occupations.4. Choose a table that is somewhat private, but still part of the main restaurant, so that you do not lose on the atmosphere, as is sometimes possible with the private dining room or the chef’s table.5. Hosts should place themselves somewhere within the centre of the table, and not the head, as this will bring you closer to more of your guests. Make sure to place the person you know the least next to or opposite the host in order to make them comfortable, and feel more included.6. Arrange for decorative elements like flowers for the table as well as personalized table ornaments for the guests, special mementos of the evening which the guests can take with them as a small souvenir. This always adds a personal touch, and makes your guests feel extra special.7. Send a personalized invitation by email to each of your guests. Even though it’s a small dinner party, along with a phone call its always nice to receive a personalized invitation, albeit in a modern electronic way. Printing is just SO not green chic!8. Considering the Dubai obsession with documenting every moment, it would be nice to send a little photographic memento the next day to your guests.

t h e R U l e s o f e N t e R ta I N I N g

D U B a I s t y l e

DIPesh DePala My favourite restaurant in Dubai has to be Abshar on the Jumeirah Beach Road, but wherever I need to go, the best person to contact for a last minute booking has to be Ayman! I adore Mediterranean food but when I entertain at home, which is pretty often, I love to cook Kashmiri aubergine, and a prawn or lamb biriyani. Favourite celeb chef: Oriol Balaguer for pastries, and Raymond BlancDipesh wears jacket and trousers by Raf Simons, shoes by Dolce & Gabbana

aamNa maNII eat at Zuma a lot, so always contact the operations director, Ajaz Sheikh if I need a last minute table. I love eating Mexican food, but at home adore rich dishes, generally anything covered in a creamy, white sauce. There’s no formula for looking great on a night out, but I always go for something chic in a solid colour, teamed with a great pair of shoes. Favourite celeb chef: Jamie OliverAamna wears black and gold studded dress and shoes by Louboutin

aymaN faKoUssa You have to love Teatro. It was the first restaurant I went to in Dubai, and has never failed to be perfect in terms of food and service. When I lived in Montreal, I used to entertain a lot, when I would make this fantastic rosemary infused lamb with a side of pasta in sun-dried tomato sauce. What I wear for dinner really depends on where I’m going, but generally a nice pair of denims and a cool shirt – throwing on a blazer or cardigan if it’s more formal. Favourite celeb chef: Gordon RamsayAyman wears three piece suit by Dolce & Gabbana, bow tie from Zara

KhatChIg mIKaelIaNI love Italian food, so the best table in Dubai for me is at BiCE, the Italian restaurant at the Hilton on JBR Walk. I haven’t entertained at my home yet, but once I do, my signature dish would have to be Veal Escalope. I eat out often, and keep my style casual, but always with one ‘pow!’ item of clothing.Favourite celeb chef: Jamie OliverKhatchig wears suit by Dolce & Gabbana, shirt by Christian Dior, shoes by Paul Smith

lashley PUlsIPheRI love an intimate corner table at Nina at the One&Only Royal Mirage; you’re guaranteed great food, amazing music, a sexy ambiance and it’s never a scene. If you show up for a late dinner you rarely have a problem getting a table. My favourite cuisine is Burmese, but at home I love to make vegan cakes and cookies. With dining attire, that’s easy; uber-fabulous from head to toe – hair done, nails done, bejewelled and teetering on high heels. It’s hard to be overdressed in Dubai!Favourite celeb chef: Michael MinaLashley wears dress by Essa, necklace by Malene Birger, shoes by Vera Wang

tastethe

Themed mocktails look great on the

table

Seppuku, roasted duck salad

Samarai respect, Khalid and Khatchig Lashley in signature

sophisticated style

Bushi with sweet chilli sauce

Time to party, the boys share a toast at the bar

Japanese whispers at Kanpai

Ayman busy playing host

Ayman and Dipesh give us their hosting tips