Hair conditioner

Hair Conditioners

By : Dr. Hemat Elgohary Email : [email protected]

• Provides color retention benefits for color-treated hair

• Reduce the forces associated with brushing of the hair

• The reduction or prevention of flyaway hair

specially by cationic conditioners

Benefits

• Feel softer

• Vitamin

• Repair of damaged hair

• Strengthening of hair

• Repair of split ends

• Increase in hair shine

• Increasing the ease of brushing

HAIR FIBER central cortex

“cuticle.”

8 to 10 layers of overlapping cells

responsible for the tensile properties of the hair

hair feelshine comb ability

No conditioner

With conditioner

Virgin Hair SurfacesHair that has not been chemically treated

as a result of a layer of fatty acids

covalently bound to the outermost

surface of the cuticle

As a result of its protein structure the hair surface has an isoelectric point near 3.67 which insures that the surface will contain negatively charged

hydrophilic sites at the ordinary pH levels of hair care

products

mix of hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity

cystine In the hair

UVcystine S-sulfonate

cysteic acid

The tip portions of the hair, being older than the root portions

therefore be more hydrophilic- ---

affecting the nature of species that can bind to these sites.

the surface friction of hair tips is highergreater combing damage

This eventually results in destruction of the covalently

bound lipid layerand a feeling of dryness at

the tips

the tip ends of hair require more

conditioning than the rest of the fiber

Without sufficient conditioning, the cuticle

layer iseventually lost, resulting

in a split end

Chemically Treated Hair Surfacespermingbleaching permanent dyeing

significant damage to the hair fiber

tensile damagemodify the surface of the hairIntroducing negative charges oxidation of cystine to cysteic acid transformation of the fiber surface from a

hydrophobic to hydrophilic

treated hair generally requires more conditioning than virgin

hair

conditioner, can prolong the health of the hair fiber

COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS

• thick Vaseline pomades•creams•gels• mousses• lotions • spray mists.

Forms:

leave-in products

Classes :

regular rinseoff conditioners

intensive treatment conditioners

normally applied after shampoofollowed by a rinsing stepThis is the most common form of

conditioner sold.

regular rinse-off conditioners

Not for daily application. They are used for intensive treatment contain a higher level of active ingredients that

are kept on the hair for a longer period of time sold as thicker creams to provide the perception

of higher conditioning.

Intensive treatment conditioners

lighter and can potentially provide more significant benefits than rinse-off products

everything applied stays on the hair until the next shampoo.

come in various forms, such as detanglers, leave-in lotions, and sprays.

They are marketed either for single application or multiple applications during the day.

Leave-in products

What about

me?? !!!

KEY INGREDIENTS OF HAIR CONDITIONERS

Cationic Surfactants

Lipophilic Conditioners Polymers

Silicones

Auxiliary Ingredients

Cationic Surfactantsthe most widely used agents in commercial products

EffectivenessVersatilityAvailability low cost

stearalkonium chlorideCetrimonium chloridedicetyldimonium chloride

Benefits Examples

• chloride• bromide• Methosulfate

counter anions

• they are substantive to hair and bind to negative sites on the hair surface.

Because of the positive charge

• hydrophobic coating on the fiber that render the hair softer and easier to comb

• Buildup of static charge (flyaway) is also greatly reduced as a result of this surface modification

• deposition increases withincreasing negative charge on the hair surface

The Results

generally carry a greater amount of negative charge

damaged portions of the hair

Are you sure ??!!

deposition and degree of penetration into the hair fiber

interaction between cationic conditioners and the hair fiber mainly occurs at the surface

low–molecular weight materials may penetrate the interior via intercellular diffusion

can penetrate the cuticular sheath as well as cortex

Cetrimonium bromide (CETAB)

Conditioner Properties and Hydrophobicity

• Binding of Stearalkonium Chloride to Human Hair

Type of hair Quat deposition at roots

(mg/g hair)

Quat deposition at tips(mg/g hair)

Virgin hair 0.649 0.789

Bleached hair

1.62 1.83

more hydrophobic leads to increased deposition on hair

deposits on hair

Cetrimonium chloride

Laurtrimonium chloride

tricetylmonium chloride

dicetyldimonium chloride

monocetyl quat

provide heavier

conditioning

cetrimonium chloride

dicetyldimonium

Provides light to

medium conditioning

tricetylmonium chlorides

Detangling and wet combing, in particular, improve significantly from monocetyl to dicetyl to tricetyl quats

Note that on some types of hair, the greater substantivity of higher conditioning quats can lead to buildup with repeated use and result in limp, unmanageable hair.

e.g

A tricetyl quat might be used, in an intensive conditioner meant only for occasional use.

& conditioner

commercial conditioners and shampoos

because of its incompatibility with common anionic detergents

The quaternium compounds normally used in commercial conditioners are not generally found in shampoos

• polyethylene glycol (PEG)• cocomonium chloride

Both of these quats are compatible with typical anionic detergents

decreases the conditioning efficacy suitable only in light conditioning Formulationsconditioning shampoos based on ethoquats would

not be expected to be very effective as a result of low deposition of the detergent-soluble ethoquat complex

Example “Ethoquats.”

Introducing hydrophilic groups

alkylamidopropyldihydroxypropyl dimonium chlorides lauryl methyl gluceth hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride hydrolyzed ginseng-saponin quaternary derived

from Korean ginseng saponin

Other detergent-soluble quats :

low irritation

the same conditioning limitations as the ethoquats.

Other Cationic Surfactants

Behentrimonium(C22)

reduced eye and skin irritation

(longer fatty chain)

superior conditioning and thickening properties

Tallow octyl dimonium chloride

provides high conditioning as a result of its two hydrophobic chains.

soluble in water as a result of branching easier to formulate into a commercial product.

Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate

immidazoline-based quats

claimed a softening effect on fabrics or hair. have also been disclosed led to the synthesis of ester quats that exhibit

biodegradability affect environmental safety

Guerbet alcohols

hydrolyzed keratin

Distearyldimonium chloride

milk proteinsoy and wheat protein

Amines (with fatty chains)

low pH protonation cationic

such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine

cationicEmulsifiers and conditioning agents

Different acids may have different effects on

the viscosity of the final product.

Lipophilic Conditioners• long-chain fatty conditioners

cetyl alcohols stearyl alcohols

Boost the conditioning effects of the quaternary compoundsReduced in wet combing forces on hair Reduced surface friction.

Function

cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols mixtures

form lamellar liquid crystal mesophases and gel networks increase viscosity confer stability upon emulsions

manufacturing

solids at room temperaturerequiring heatingto incorporate into a productthe cooling rate is not so rapid

glycol distearatetriglyceridesfatty esterswaxes of triglyceridesliquid paraffin

Other lipids

Polymers(Cationic Polymers)

improved wet combing reduced static charge

Polyquaternium - 6Polyquaternium-7Polyquaternium-10Polyquaternium-11Polyquaternium-16

Examples:

the higher the charge density, the lower the weight of polymer needed to neutralize all of the negative chargeon the hair.

cationic charge density

Care must be taken, to avoid over-conditioning as a result of buildup with continued use

multiple points of electrostatic attachment

harder to remove

deposition of polyquaterniums increases on treated or damaged hair.

commercial conditioners and shampoos

compatible to varying degrees with anionic surfactants

used more in shampoos than in stand-alone conditioners

they find some use in leave-in conditioners.

Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7)

• The most frequently used polymers in commercial shampoos.

• Conditioning from shampoos is significantly less than from stand-alone conditioners.

• Buildup • heavy coated feel on the hair • they are should carefully formulated.

polyquaternium association complexes formed with sodium lauryl sulfate resist removal from hair

some polyquaternium materials improve adhesion of the cuticle scales thereby increasing resistance to scale uplift when the hair is stressed

amphiphilc polymersamphoteric polymers block copolymers graft polymers dendrimers

Other Polymers

use as conditioning agentsstabilizers, deposition agents

because of cost, they are rare.

Siliconessilicone quats, Amodimethicone dimethicone, Dimethicone copolyoldimethiconol, C

on

dit

ion

ing

eff

ect

solublemay not be as effective in rinse-

off products

insoluble

must therefore be emulsified

Silicone emulsions can vary in:

1) charge (anionic, cationic, or nonionic),2) size (microemulsion or macroemulsion), 3) how they are made (mechanical or emulsion polymerization)

the smaller the size of the silicone particles, the more stable the product emulsion

reducing the particle size improves conditioning performance

If a preformedsilicone emulsion is

not used????

heat

shear

to control particle size

of the silicone droplets

Conditioning Properties of Silicones

Lubricity Spread easily on the hair surface Ease of combing and imparts a

smooth, soft feel to the hair without greasiness.

Dimethicone lowered frictional coefficients and surface energy of

virgin hair to a greater extent than a series of cationic surfactants,

including distearydimonium chloride, a very effective conditioning agent.

Measure conditioning effect on slightly bleached European hair

Dimethicone fluids

Dimethiconol gums more effective in reducing dry

combing forces.

wet combing was roughly the same

Experiment

1

Exposure to silicone solutions

Experiment

2for 30 secondsfollowed by drying without rinsing presence of tricetylmonium chloride (quat)

double deposition of all siliconesReduction in combing forces was also roughly

doubled

Synergistic Effect

Effects of a series of silicone emulsions on bleached and

virgin hair

Experiment

3

Silicones

Emulsions

dimethicones oramodimethicones

anionicneutralcationic

Emulsions were applied directly to the hair and combing forces measured both before and after rinsing

Before rinsingreduction of combing forces by most emulsions was

greater than 80%.

the least change in ease of combing was found for cationic emulsions,especially those containing amodimethicone

After rinsing

Combing forces on virgin hair increased less than on bleached hair after rinsing

The silicones were more substantive to virgin

hair

Effects of Amodimethicones Experiment

3Deposition on hair was found to

increase with increasing amine content in the silicone

Microemulsion in the test series that provided high conditioning was also shown to significantly reduce the color fading caused by shampoo of temporarily dyed hair

Other SiliconesCyclomethicone

volatile and will not remain on dry hair, especially after blow-drying

It helps other conditioning agents to disperse

helps improve wet combing and provides transient shine

widely used as a solvent to reduce the viscosity of silicone gums with much higher molecular weights.

phenyl trimethicone

dimethicone copolyol phosphates

high refractive index, close to that of hair,

commonly used in leave-in conditioners to enhance the shine of hair fibers

anionic functional silicones

able to complex with tertiary amines of cationic hair conditioners and form effective emulsifiers and conditioners

fluorocarbon-modified organosilicones

very hydrophobic like dimethicone; however, they are claimed to have a lighter and more lubricious feel

silicone blends

blends of these materials

having different molecular weights

different functional groups

silicones with other hydrophobic oils

improve overall conditioning benefits

2-in-1 Shampoos

& conditioner

Silicones find important application as the primary conditioning agents in 2-in-1 conditioningshampoos

the shampoo emulsion breaks, releasing the silicone for deposition on hair.

Dimethicone

The conditioning agent used most frequently in 2-in-1 shampoos

provide good performance in shampoo formulations without excessive buildup on the hair

Newer formulations

Dimethicone emulsions AmodimethiconesDimethiconols, Copolyols Combinations of these different types

The level of conditioning from 2-in-1 shampoos is lower than that from stand-alone conditioners

Many 2-in-1 products contain polyquats, which might be expected to increase conditioning on damaged hair

Polyquat performance on treated hair may be no better than Dimethicone as a result of formation of the negatively charged polymer complexes

in 2-in-1 shampoos

soluble dimethiconecopolyols did not perform well

Dimethicone Amodimethicone

Dimethiconecopolyols

combing Similar Similar Law conditioning Similar Similar Law foam volume reduced minimal effect minimal effect

Auxiliary Ingredients

Preservatives

Thickeners

Humectants

Emulsifiers

Others

FragrancesDyespearlizers herbal extractsvitamins

Preservatives

insure the microbiological integrity

If the product contains high concentrations of ethyl alcohol (generally 20% or above), additional preservatives are not needed and the product is described as self-preserving.

Most of the preservatives used in personal care products are described in the Cosmetic Preservatives Encyclopedia

ThickenersCationic conditioning polymers can also act as

thickeners

Hydroxyethylcellulose

a nonionic cellulose ether compatible with cationic surfactants and stable over a wide pH range

the most common thickening agent added to conditioning products

increased viscosity, this material stabilizes viscosity over time

Polyamidescan be used to emulsify and thicken lotion or

cream conditioners

Polyacrylate-based thickeners

such as carbopol

in the past these thickeners have not always been compatible with cationic surfactants

Recently, new thickeners based on polyacrylate chemistry have been commercialized to address this issue.

Humectants

purpose is to attract moisture

Examples propylene glycol Glycerin Honey Chitosan hyaluronic acid

Not expected to be very effective in rinse-off products.

Emulsifiers

Most emulsifiers used in conditioners are nonionic including:Ethoxylated fatty alcoholsEthoxylated fatty estersEthoxylated sorbitan fatty esters.

To be …………healthy & beautiful