HADES WANDERLUST ISSUE 2
Mar 10, 2016
HADESwanderlust
issue 2
wanderlustA strong desire to travel
Having never left Europe in my 20 years on this planet, I am one of the many people enthralled by the idea of Wanderlust. For the last few years I have been impulsively longing to just pack my bags and go. My involvement in the worldly industry of fashion has only furthered this desire and through working on this issue of HADES myself and the team have, metaphorically, travelled the world without actually leaving the UK. From directing a photographic editorial on a farm with a horse named Gucci to attempting an American Vintage photo-shoot in Scotland’s torrential rain, the HADES team have bared all to bring you an exciting second issue of the magazine.
Since the launch of issue one the original HADES family consisting of myself, Creative Director and photographer Laura McKinnon; Graphic Editor and photographer Siobhan Stewart; Editorial Journalist Stephanie Boyle and Make-Up Artist extraordinaire Nikki McMillan, has grown. For this issue we have proudly welcomed make-up artist Rachel- Louise Newton, freelance stylist Megan Flockhart and filmer Chris Gibson onto the creative team.
Over the last couple of months, we have teased you all with snippets of this issues content in Chris Gibson’s wonderful fashion films and now, it is finally here! On our cover we present the futuristic Cypriot bags and accessories label, Talu. Straight out of university and onto the catwalk we search for the next bright young stars of the fashion industry at Graduate Fashion Week. Editorial journalist, Stephanie Boyle explores the world of international fashion photography from past to present. We treat you to an exclusive interview with world famous make up label, Lime Crime and explore the international fashion industry with features on trends and designers from Paris, Dubai, The US, Sweden and Japan.
Finally, I would like to thank everyone on the team for all their hard work and persistence this issue and all of our readers for the support you have given the magazine over the past few months, it really has been invaluable.
So now sit back, relax and prepare for take-off!
Happy travels,Corrine McConnachie
PREPARE FOR taKe-OFFA Word From The Editor...
cOntents011024363848606870 8192
on the cover:Photography: Laura McKinnonModel:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie
TALU CREATIONS
KAREN HALE
LIME CRIME
RIPTINKA ACCESSORIES
BINT THANI
WESTERN TREND
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK
THE WORLD’S LENS
JENNIE Lö ö F
MALAM PARIS
PARMA VINTAGE
welcOMe tO... CYPRUS
cOntents011024363848606870 8192
on the cover:Photography: Laura McKinnonModel:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie
TALU CREATIONS
KAREN HALE
LIME CRIME
RIPTINKA ACCESSORIES
BINT THANI
WESTERN TREND
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK
THE WORLD’S LENS
JENNIE Lö ö F
MALAM PARIS
PARMA VINTAGE
2 Hades
TALU CREATIONSPhotography: Laura McKinnon
Model:Kirstin Gribbin @ ColoursStyling: Corrine McConnachie
Words: Corrine McConnachie
4 Hades
The first time you come eye to eye with a Talu
bag is an experience not to be forgotten. At the
Margin trade show, surrounded by an array of
designs, I was immediately
drawn to the Talu Creations
bags and accessories range
designed by Chris Christo.
The captivating, glass fused
Talu eye stamp immediately reminded me of
the Big Brother emblem and before I knew it,
I was making a beeline straight for the new,
exciting and futuristic designs. Many ancient
philosophies consider the symbol of the eye to
be a channel to a new dimension and, as Talu
creations journeys towards success, Chris
Christo takes accessorising to a new level with
his fashion forward, handmade creations.
Founded in November 2011 under the
slogan of ‘Handmade Individual Design’, the
Cypriot label has already taken the European
fashion industry by storm. In less than a year
Chris has stocked Talu in Cyprus, Athens and
Mykonos, showcased Talu at Athens Xclusive
Designer’s Week and Margin Trade Show in
London, launched the brand’s first official
womenswear collection for Spring/Summer
2012 and branched into menswear. With these
achievements under his belt, Chris believes that
his unique tailor-made bags and jewellery can
break the fashion accessories mould, “Talu is
very fresh, I wanted to create a brand that breaks
away from the mainstream, yet compliments
current trends. Fashion is usually ‘played safe’
to some extent for mass
mainstream interest and
greater financial gain. I
believe that to have full
artistic vision, one must
not think about short term financial rewards
but, instead, explore all parameters of design.”
Speaking professionally with passion and
confidence it is clear that Chris is no stranger
to the fashion industry. After working under
the likes of the popular 1980s British fashion
designer, Juliette Spatchette and styling celebrity
personalities Chris was ready to “take the bull
by the horns” with Talu, “My first taste of the
fashion industry was working in the renowned
fashion department store ‘Hyper Hyper’ in High
Street Kensington, London. With the re launch
of the store, renamed’ HypeDf’ I was appointed
Assistant store manager and junior buyer by
the famous Ms Loren Gordon. I owe a lot to
Loren for believing in my talent and giving me
the opportunity to achieve so much. Alongside
international buying trips, I was creating and
implementing the three floor store’s vast window
schemes and visual merchandising.”
With a focus on individuality and the needs
of the customer at the forefront of the Talu brand,
‘I wanted to create a brand that breaKs away from the
mainstream, yet cOMpliMents current trends.’
6 Hades
8 Hades
every part of Chris’s artistic
design is cleverly thought out.
Chris, dynamically, explains
the function of the metal base,
which allows each bag to stand
upright. Even the PVC leather
fabric was chosen for more
than just aesthetic pleasure as
the material is easy to clean,
‘Everything begins with a
thought process followed by
sketches, samples and then the
final tweaking to make sure the
end product is perfect. I believe
in functionality as well as visual
design. I take extreme care,
effort and time regarding the
technical side of the procedure
of designing.’ Inspired by his
Cypriot roots and Greek culture,
the iconic Talu eye stamp was
created to make each accessory
instantly identifiable: ‘Talu has
its own unique and individual
identity. I stick with the original
concept, yet experiment with
shape, size, colour and of course
materials. In many cultures,
’the eye’ has been a symbol of
protection since the beginning
of time. It is said to ward off
evil and keep positive energy
around you. Coming from a
Greek background, “the eye”
has always been prominent.’
Chris is overjoyed with
the brand’s progress so far,
especially considering the first
official womenswear collection
was only launched five months
ago, “The past few months of
my life have been the most
exciting and I feel truly blessed
to have received such a level of
recognition for my work.” With
confidence in Talu’s recent
achievements Chris launched
the first “Talu man” collection
for Spring/Summer 2012 in
May, ‘Three new fantastic “man
bags” have been designed and
the “man jewellery” is in the
pipeline and will be launched
in time for high summer.’
With every belief in his
brand Chris aims high with
hopes for the Talu brand to
go global in the future, ‘My
aspirations for TALU are for
the brand to grow steadily and
become loved and worn by those
who want to be different. I will
be spending most of my time
between London and Cyprus,
since we are keen to break into
the UK market in big way. I
am excited to announce that
Talu will be showcasing at the’
PURE Trade Show’ in London
this August and will, therefore,
be exposed to a worldwide
audience .There has been a lot
of positive interest shown in
Middle and Far East and I hope
to break into the market there
also.’
When dreaming,
envisioning an eye indicates
opening a new chapter as your
vision clears and you focus
on a new direction. As Chris
Christo’s dream progresses
and spreads it seems that the
direction of Talu is not only
significant to lovers of bags and
accessories but to the fashion
industry as a whole with a new
brand rising to rival others
at the top of their game and
challenge current convention.
9 Hades
10 Hades
11 Hades
welcOMe tO... jAPAn
Karen
Hale
Photography: Siobhan Stewart
Model: Victoria Middleton @ Model Team
Make-Up: nikki McMillan
Styling: Corrine McConnachie
Words: Corrine McConnachie
From Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane, Fashion Week designers truly embraced statement
prints this season. In the range of popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks an edgy
alternative to the frequent floral and tribal dresses was offered in the use of bold geometric prints.
Designers such as Kate Kosek, Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the playful trend, reminiscent
of the 1980s. Glasgow School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed many with her own unique take
on the trend using traditional Japanese kimonos at the university’s annual catwalk show.
13 Hades
14 Hades
15 Hades
From Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane,
Fashion Week designers truly embraced
statement prints this season. In the range of
popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012
catwalks an edgy alternative to the frequent floral
and tribal dresses
was offered in the
use of bold geometric
prints. Designers
such as Kate Kosek,
Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the
playful trend, reminiscent of the 1980s. Glasgow
School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed
many with her own unique take on the trend
using traditional Japanese kimonos at the
university’s annual catwalk show.
The third year Textile Design student fused both
contemporary and experimental style in her
hypnotising prints with the traditional in her use
of historic Japanese garments, which created
an image of a liberated Geisha girl. Karen said,
‘I knew that simple kimono-style shapes would
work well with my print designs as kimonos are
unfussy and have strong visual impact, despite
being relatively straight-forward to make. I
suppose my designs are quite minimalist, but my
use of shape and repeated motifs means they are
eye-catching.’
With an artistic eye, fashion has been an interest
of Karen’s from a young age and her love for
print dates all the way back to her childhood
wardrobe, ‘At a young age I was drawn to repeats
and patterns, and printed clothes. A lot of my
clothes when I was a
child were striped or
covered in polka dots
and floral patterns.
So, the Textile Design
degree (specialising in Print) was an obvious
choice!’
Karen is thankful for her experience at university
as it has allowed her to dabble in many areas
of fashion design. After graduating the textile
student plans to utilise most of the skills she
has learned, ‘I have done short courses in Knit,
Print, Weave and Embroidery, learning the basic
and some more advanced techniques in each of
these specialisms. I would love the opportunity
to do more hand and machine-embroidery, and
perhaps even knit. I also really enjoy painting
and following contemporary art.’
With high hopes for an artistic career, preferably
in textile design, Karen hopes to embrace the all-
important global aspect of the fashion industry
and gain work experience abroad, ‘It’s so
‘It's so important to go out and see the wOrld and to collect
inspiratiOn from your travels.’
17 Hades
18 Hades
19 Hades
20 Hades
important to go out and see the world and to
collect inspiration from your travels. This year I
plan to get some industry experience under my
belt. I am also trying to organise and save for
personal study trips to Berlin and Florence to
inspire think my final year concept.’
In today’s competitive fashion industry the
support of a degree can be highly useful and
Karen advises those with the determination and
passion for design to grasp the opportunity to
study. Reflecting back on her experiences so far
Karen advised, ‘It’s important to have confidence
in your work and to know where your strengths
lie. Don’t be afraid of having a signature style
that you keep going back to, but try not to get
stuck in a rut. Always carry a camera or sketch-
book, you never know when something inspiring
will catch your eye.’
Looking at her three fine cut, colourful and
mesmerising kimonos it is clear Karen is
talented. With her bubbly enthusiasm and drive
HADES magazine has no doubt that Karen Hale
will succeed in her future endeavours.
21 Hades
22 Hades
welcOMe tO... AMERiCA
l Me
c r i M e
Photographer: Laura McKinnonMake-up: nikki McMillan
Styling: Corrine McConnachie with Riptinka Accessories
Model: Chloe Campbell @ Superior, Muti Goloba @ Superior
Words: Corrine McConnachie
26 Hades
ONCE UPON A TIME there was a
Russian girl named Doe Deere who dreamed of
becoming a creative pioneer. From a young age
Doe knew that a prosperous future lay ahead
and that, one day, her story would travel far and
wide. Though this fairy-tale is not one of princes,
sleeping potions or fairy god mothers, it does
involve fluorescent colours, glitter and a lot of
determination.
Lime Crime’s story began in 2008 when Doe
finally found an outlet for her creative nature:
make up. Teamed with a group of chemists
in Los Angeles Doe began to create the kind
of revolutionising make-up she had always
dreamed of and, thus, the vibrant world of Lime
Crime was born. In fitting with the fanciful
nature of Lime Crime, the unicorn was chosen
to be the brand mascot and to serve as a symbol
of individuality. Now, Doe Deere herself has
been branded by fans as ‘The Unicorn Queen’,
an example of the modern woman Lime Crime
target with their fashion-forward make up.
With high profile, celebrity fans such as Katy
Perry and Nicki Minaj and features in Elle and
Teen Vogue, Lime Crime has become a world-
wide phenomenon. The Unicorn Queen has
widened her appeal to the point of being titled
one of the ‘Top Inspiring Woman Entrepreneurs
of 2010’ by Self-Made magazine. The fairy-
tale of Lime Crime is known by many but what
lays beneath the glitter eye palettes and candy
coloured lip sticks? HADES magazine finds out.
27 Hades
28 Hades
29 Hades
Why did you decide to create
your own make up brand?
I liked to invent fairy-tales when
I was a child. As I grew older,
the desire to tell stories never
subsided and I spent most of my
twenties looking for the right
medium. I tried music, fashion
and a few others things before
finally discovering make-up.
Having my own brand allows
me to tell my own story, create
worlds I've always wished
existed, and, of course, create
the kind of makeup I myself
want to wear.
How did you launch Lime
Crime?
We launched in 2008 with
a simple line of loose eye-
shadows. Then, following my
gut, I went into lipsticks- the
product we are currently most
known for.
Where did the name Lime
Crime come from?
Rhyming is used often in fairy-
tales. In that spirit, we give
our products whimsical names
such as Airborne Unicorn and
Countessa Fluorescent. To me,
Lime Crime means colouring
outside the lines, breaking up
the stale beauty standards and
doing things your own way!
Plus, lime green is one of my
absolute favourite colours.
Why did you choose a unicorn
as the company mascot?
A unicorn is a rare, mythical
creature of exceptional beauty
and a kind heart. I associate
unicorns with happiness,
mysterious nature and above
all individualism. Unlike a
horse a unicorn is a loner. I've
always felt different so there
is a natural affinity there. For
an animal-friendly brand like
Lime Crime a unicorn seemed
like a wonderful fit.
What makes Lime Crime
different from other make up
brands on the market?
Our entire line is cruelty-free,
and we strive to make all of
our products vegan. I believe
that makeup should be fun and
harmless, and animal testing
is the opposite of that. Beauty
should never come at the
expense of another living being.
We are also an independent
brand, which allows us to take
more creative risks and do what
we believe without worrying so
much about the bottom-line. I
think it is the only way to go!
When you first launched Lime
Crime did you ever expect it to
become so popular?
Not in a million years! I just
wanted to try something new
and something that I was
personally excited about, I
never expected such level of
enthusiasm. That's the nature
of the internet; you never know
where you'll find your audience.
What inspires and motivates
you?
Personally, I am inspired
by colours, sounds, nature,
kindness to animals, Los
30 Hades
31 Hades
32 Hades
Angeles, and people with a unique sense of style.
Professionally, it's mythology and fairy tales!
(Although the two are almost impossible to
separate most of the time.)
How does it feel to have celebrity fans and to be
featured in publications such as Elle?
We have received support from numerous well-
respected publications and people, and it always
feels very humbling. I am still surprised and
flattered whenever somebody wants to wear or
talk about my brand Recently I was invited on
Dave Navarro's radio show, Dark Matter; Dave
is a huge anti-fur activist and found out about
my brand on the internet. It was cool to meet a
person with similar inclinations.
What inspired the Aquatænia eyeshadow palette?
My friend Traci Hines, who is known for being
a real-life mermaid and for singing The Little
Mermaid’s Part of Your World on Youtube in
character. Meeting Traci made a deep impact on
me as a life-long mermaid fanatic. I think the
palette is an excellent representation of Lime
Crime aesthetic and Traci’s effervescent beauty.
What can we expect from Lime Crime in the
future?
We are super-excited about all the releases we
have planned for 2012. I can't give away too
much but let's just say it's going to be our most
magical year yet!
Shop Lime Crime:
http://www.limecrimemakeup.com
Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/limecrime
33 Hades
34 Hades
35 Hades
36 Hades
riptinka accessories is an up and coming UK
jewellery brand. Formed in 2009 by Katie Reekie,
Riptinka’s handmade designs offer costume
jewellery lovers with unique, quirky and high
quality pieces adorned with Swarovski elements
and genuine vintage components. Now three
years since the brand was founded, Riptinka is
fast rising to success with plans for a US launch.
After studying Fashion Design at Herriot Watt
and working as an assistant buyer for footwear
and jewellery companies such as Quiz, Katie
decided to follow her instincts and launch her
own company. With expert knowledge on how
the market works Katie wanted to create designs
that were truly unique and distinctive, ‘I could
tell early on that I was on to something special.’
Katie’s first designs took inspiration from
childhood nostalgia with a Barbie and fairy-tale
inspired collections. The Barbie designs were
particularly popular, ‘My initial range featured a
lot of Barbie references and at the time there
were only a couple of sellers in the UK selling
such styles.’ With an eye on emerging trends,
Katie’s recent collections have played upon
popular trends and given them an all-important
Riptinka twist, ‘In my tribal range for Spring/
Summer 2012 I managed to incorporate a lot of
my signature style with the use of popular spikes
whilst still keeping the range more commercial.’
With Riptinka fast rising in profile, Katie has
exciting plans for the future, ‘I have a large
project that has been bubbling under the surface
for around a year now. I have been creating a
range which will be the first of its kind in the
UK. I’ve been bursting at the seams to show
these samples but it is not long to wait now and
hopefully by mid-July l will be given the green
light to go into production. My newest venture
should open up a lot of doors for Riptinka and
taking my brand to the US is something I can
see happening in the not so distant future.’
Returning to her original roots, Katie also hopes
to add handmade womenswear to the Riptinka
label in the future. The team at HADES cannot
wait to see Riptinka’s latest project and watch
Katie work her way to the top!
riptinKaccessOriesWords: Corrine McConnachie
37 Hades
38 Hades
39 Hades
welcOMe tO... DUBAi
40 Hades
London, Paris, New York and
now Dubai- another city that is
making its own trademark stamp
on the fashion world. Chic, trendy
and of course girly; three words
Khulood Thani uses to describe
her incredible collection. Though
originally from the UAE, Khulood
studied at ESMOD in Paris before
moving to London and, as a result,
this burst of different cultures had
a profound impact on the image of
her London Fashion Week featured
brand ‘Bint Thani’
“Dubai, as a city, is very
cosmopolitan and encourages
creativity. As a designer I have been
exposed to the evolving scenes of
fashion, art and design in all three
cities which has contributed to the
way I think about fashion”
Inspired by the artistic and cultural
diversity found during her travels,
Khulood created Bint Thani in
2009 as a way of expressing
her individual take on fashion.
Although her inspirations mainly
come from fashion history, art and
movies, Khulood still takes the
forever changing trend forecast
into consideration when creating
clothing. Each collection carries
a theme and those themes each
express a story. Her collections
are where couture meets the
dynamism of the high street to
create an incredibly strong identity
that comes with Bint Thani - an
identity that is further expressed by
Khulood’s description of a typical
Bint Thani customer:
bint tHaniPhotography: Siobhan StewartModel: Sula Powell @ Superior
Make-up: nikki McMillanHair: Lorraine Powell
Styling: Corrine McConnachieWords: Stephanie Boyle
41 Hades
43 Hades
44 Hades
45 Hades
The Bint Thani girl is bubbly, playful yet innocent and, above all,
chic.“The Bint Thani girl is bubbly,
playful yet innocent and, above all, chic. She is
effortless in her style and never over-dressed.
She likes to be indulged in luxurious fabrics such
as silk, chiffon and satin. She is sophisticated,
enjoys travelling to enrich her knowledge and
adores arts and culture”
Recently, Khulood has launched a collaboration
piece with UAE-based jewellery designer Amal
Haliq which merges their love for fashion and
jewellery in one piece: a summer coat. On the
mood board, the designer describes everything
as “sweet as candy” as the pastel colours; baby
pink, mint green and lemon yellow remind her of
Parisian macaroons whereas the bolder shades
such as flash yellow, fuchsia and bright whites
look like colourful candies. The overall feel of the
piece is bold and very feminine.
Bint Thani as a brand is incredibly fun,
aesthetically stunning and what you could
call happy fashion. Khulood herself is a truly
inspirational designer with a unique style and
worldly knowledge of culture and the arts. She
describes her contribution at London Fashion
Week as her greatest achievement so far and,
in the future, she hopes to see Bint Thani as a
trendsetter in the world of fashion. With a strong
following and a host of new ideas, it is no wonder
that with designers like Khulood Thani, Dubai
and the UAE are truly making their mark on the
fashion map.
47 Hades
welcOMe tO... AMERiCA
westerntrend
Photography: Laura McKinnonModel: Samantha Davidson @ Colours
Make-up: Rachel newtonStyling: Corrine McConnachie, Stephanic Boyle
Special thanks to: Lisa Brewster andGucci the horse
Words: Stephanie Boyle
50 Hades
51 Hades
52 Hades
53 Hades
Saloon doors creak as they swing in the
breeze, metal spurs spin on leather boots and a
tumble weed blows across the sand. Who knew
that fashion could take inspiration from the
Wild West? It's not a replica of old spaghetti
western movies but more a nod towards the
ethereal wilderness of American style; a little
less Calamity Jane but a little more Texan belle;
think sexy gold rush.
In recent collections at fashion week, designers
such as Scott Sternberg and Isabel Morant took
inspiration from the Wild West with their use
of capes, Navajo and suede. Kinder Aggugini
channelled feminine styles with prints based
on vintage Cowboy wallpaper and Thakoon
Panichgul decorated bold western cuts with
oriental fabric to create a collection where east
meets west. In the July issue of UK Vogue, Karen
Elson stars in Tom Craig's editorial “Don't Mess
with Texas” which sees the flame-haired model
pose as part of a story that takes place in a sleepy
Texan town at sunset.
57 Hades
We sat down with model and designer Emma
Louise Connolly on set at the Hades photo shoot
to talk about her graduate collection which fitted
perfectly with the western inspired trend. The
mix of tan suede and black leather fringe detail
made each piece stand out as a true statement
on its own but also made the pieces versatile
enough to style with other items. Breaking away
from the uniformed “pretty” image set by her
lecturers, Emma created designs that were a lot
edgier:
“It all started when we were looking at packaging;
all the bows and frills were too girly for me so
I started playing around with the materials;
weaving, pleating and fringing – that's where
the basic inspiration came from for my graduate
collection”
The strong American fabrics of this collection
inspired the more industrial scenes of the
editorial; hay filled stables and rusty farm
equipment posed as the perfect backdrop for
the cowboy inspired styling. To create a softer
image in the editorial, The Tolsta Ghost dress by
HandmadeInPartick was used to enhance a more
feminine dynamic. Designer, Lorna Shields said,
“The tartan of the bodice came from left-over
fabric from my kilt and the muslin gives the
lightness and ethereality of a spectre. The
fabric is easily distressed and I thought taking a
blowtorch to it would complete the look”
59 Hades
As there has always been a strong image of plaid
shirts on western styles, the tartan bodice made
a convincing statement in connection with the
theme. However, it was the muslin skirt that
created that striking image with the horse; it
conjures up images of riding horseback across
the desert, the fabric blowing in the wind.
Whether it's the distressed makings of an all-
American cowboy, or the whimsical styling of
a Southern Belle, it's this image of wilderness
and old American ways attached to the west that
makes it such a popular trend in the world of
fashion.
riding horseback across the desert, the fabric blowing in the wind...
welcOMe tO... LonDon
GraduateFasHiOn weeKPhotography: Laura McKinnonWords: Corrine McConnachie
62 Hades
Graduate Fashion Week
celebrated its 21st birthday
this year by showcasing the
finest talent from numerous
UK fashion courses. In recent
years Graduate Fashion week
has been considered one of
the most influential events in
the annual fashion calendar as
it provides the British fashion
equivalent to a crystal ball.
Since its opening year, when
Burberry’s Christopher Bailey
won the debut student of the
year award, GFW has provided
a platform for some of Britain’s
most influential designers from
Stella McCartney to Antonio
Berardi.
The event stretched over a three
day period beginning on June
10th and hosted 20 catwalk
shows, more than 1,000
students from 39 universities
and 20,000 visitors. From
jewellery made out of
stationery, millinery designed
using back supports and a
jacket that transformed into
a suitcase HADES magazine
really did see it all. It seemed
each university had its own
speciality such as knitwear or
print and Bath Spa University
was awarded the highest honour
of the week with student, Chloe
Jones winning the George Gold
Award. The establishments
which really inspired the team
at HADES with their catwalk
shows were the University of
Central Lancashire, Newcastle’s
Northumbria University and
De Montfort University.
Though the University of
Central Lancashire showcased
on the first day of the event,
their memorable avant-garde
and highly impressive show was
still being raved about at the
end of the week after several of
its graduates won prizes at the
Gala closing show.
The UCLan catwalk opened
with designs by Claire Acton,
who set the tone for the rest of
the show with her pop art, face
image designs. Acton’s colourful
fringing and hair inspired
silhouettes, accessorised with
oversized hair clasps all added
to her clever take on the theory
that image is everything.
Having impressed many, it was
no surprise when Acton was
awarded with the runner up
prize for the prestigious Gold
Award.
Following on from Acton’s fun
pop art designs, Emma Guilfoyle
used similar Andy Warhol style
prints in her politically inspired
collection. Using images
of former Prime Ministers,
Margret Thatcher and Winston
Churchill, Guilfoyle played
upon the current Thatcher-
ite trend in her use of pastel
and tweed panelling, rosettes
and statement 1980s power
shoulders.
At the UCLan show the
63 Hades
64 Hades
best designs were definitely
saved for last. The incredible
collection by Xiaoping (Fiona)
Huang had those in the front
row staring open mouthed as
the photographers frantically
snapped away, determined
not to miss a single step taken
down the catwalk. Xiaoping’s
collection took the term
thinking outside the box literally
with 3D accordion style pleated
trousers, which bounced as
the models strode down the
catwalk. Decorated with music
sheet print and primary colours,
these elaborate structures
truly represented the jack in
the box theme. Xiaoping’s
unique collection earned her
the honourable Zandra Rhodes
Textiles award.
Northumbria University
graduates stood out for their
high fashion couture style,
attention to detail and edge.
After walking out of the
Northumbria show there
seemed to be an overall
consensus of respect; I have yet
to hear anyone utter criticism
about the show or the university.
From the spectacular line up of
graduate collections, Amelia
Smith, Hannah Harrison and
Gary Wilson were the students
who really stood out.
Amelia Smith’s art deco
collection delivered decadence,
class and femininity.
Inspired by the architecture
in Moscow’s famous Red
Square, the shapely dresses
were detailed with intricate
monochromatic patterns and
gold embellishments which,
teamed with traditional fur
hats, created a strong and
mature collection.
Hannah Harrison’s fun travel
inspired collection took us
far away from Amelia Smith’s
Russian winter on an imaginary
journey around South-East
Asia. With a nod towards the
recent Prada vintage Americana
Spring/Summer campaign in
the use of bandanas, Hannah
captured the tourist style
perfectly with a retro briefcase
and statement sunglasses.
Her use of screen and digital
printing, dyes, foil and layering
gave the collection a quirky
edge which was added to by a
slogan t-shirt- ‘my friend went
on holiday and all she got me
was this lousy t-shirt.’
Gary Wilson rounded up the
Northumbria show in style with
bondage clad models depicting
futuristic femme-bots. The
black bobbed wigs and ripped
tights gave the collection, which
was about a confident woman
experiencing a breakdown,
an all-important edge. The
contrast used between the
tight leather dresses with large
gold zips and soft fabrics such
as satin portrayed each stage
in the meltdown of a broken
woman perfectly.
Last but not least in the handful
of establishments
65 Hades
67 Hades
that impressed was the highly regarded fashion
school at De Montfort University. In the 2012
catwalk show graduates from De Montfort
were unsurpassed in their manipulation of
unconventional materials.
Many of the De Montfort graduates made use
of knitwear; however one designer stood out in
particular for the new, fun and quirky dimension
she brought to knitwear design. Kellie McGuiness
combined knit and print in her colourful and
feminine knitted hold dresses. The innovative
use of miniature photo frames to create necklaces
gave the collection a more high fashion appeal.
Charlotte Booty took the use of unconventional
materials to the next level in weaving hundreds of
cable ties into the dresses, Mac style jackets and
even the shoes in her collection. The colourful
plastics, which created statement necklines and
intricate cuff detail, looked stunning on the
catwalk.
Jade Clark’s bold menswear designs were
definitely the most memorable from the De
Montfort University catwalk show. The bondage
style PVC masks and anarchic t-shirt slogans-
‘bad man’ and ‘sick’- provided a striking contrast
to the use of bright pastel colourings, glitter
and googly eyed rucksacks, therefore, creating a
striking message about lost innocence.
The high standard on the catwalk at GFW 2012
had even industry veterans flabbergasted. It is
difficult to predict who from the 2012 graduates
will become the next Christopher Bailey or Paul
Smith but one thing is for sure, the future of the
British fashion industry is in safe hands.
I'm no photographer: I don't even have an expensive camera to pretend I'm a photographer.
You see, I'm merely a spectator, an admirer, if you like. As a writer, it is important to understand
the craft of the written word but, arguably, it can be more important to understand the power of a
great photograph.
tHe
lensWords: Stephanie Boyle
69 Hades
I remember this one poster as a little girl, my
great aunt had it in a frame above her dresser;
between two huge elephants, wild and flailing,
stood a lady, delicate and graceful in a floor
length black gown, her hand on each animal. My
aunt had worked as a nurse in India for a while
and the elephants were always her favourite. The
photograph in question turned out to be Richard
Avedon's iconic 1955 poster “Dovima with the
Elephants” the monochrome gown was Dior and
the image was captured at the Cirque D'Hiver
in Paris. Despite being iconically Parisian, this
photograph has and always will remind me of
India. It is incredible how one image can make
you travel to a different place, where in your head
you can see, taste and smell the imaginary oasis
around you. Throughout the history of fashion
photography, the power of stunning editorials
have been enhanced by the allure of places far, far
away and deepened by man’s desire to travel and
discover the hidden corners of places unknown.
One photographer who stands out for the use
of travel in his work is F.C Gundlach, the most
recognised German photographer of the post-
war years. A particular editorial, which was
commissioned in 1966 for Brigitte magazine,
saw Gundlach travel to Egypt to shoot one of
the most recognisable series of photographs
from his entire career. With the models in
vintage swimming caps, it is said that their
heads, aimed to resemble colourful round balls,
were to be placed as a stark contrast against the
architectural form of the Egyptian pyramids. The
result was both a historical homage to ancient
Egypt and a nod towards the fashion forward
culture of 1960s Europe. Fifty years on and the
allure of travel is as strong as ever.
This year, Prada's Spring/Summer collection
brought back the glamour of the American road
trip. It might not seem as foreign and mysterious
a concept as say, Mario Testino’s “High Plains
Drifter” in UK Vogue but it has that retro vibe of
the USA like Elvis in Viva Las Vegas. The prints
are made up of vintage cars, cherries and flames
– a mix of the boyish obsession with speed
and the romanticism of American diners. The
advertorial tells the story of a road trip; it's all
scorching skies and cat-eye sunglasses meet with
classic cuts and bright red lips. Not only does it
encourage us to travel back in time, but also calls
to our inner adventurer taking to the open road
and travelling down Route 66.
You do not need to be a photographer, you do
not even need to have a great camera; but as a
spectator, a traveller and a dreamer it's more
than possible to become lost in a photograph
and travel to wherever your mind may take you.
70 Hades
71 Hades
welcOMe tO... SWEDEn
Je nn i e
l ö ö Fd e s i G n
P h o t o g r a p h y : S i o b h a n S t e w a r tM o d e l : j e n n i f e r G r i b b e nM a k e - u p : R a c h e l L o u i s eW o r d s : S t e p h a n i e B o y l e
74 Hades
75 Hades
77 Hades
Jumping in puddles, running in the rain and realising that you don't have to grow up is the
happy-go-lucky ethos behind the stunning collections of Swedish born designer Jennie Lööf. Looking at her designs, you become enraptured by the eclectic mix of modern cuts
with vintage fabrics- a combination that works incredibly well. We sit down with the designer
herself to talk personal style, sewing classes and future plans…
78 Hades
80 Hades
When did you decide to start
Jennie Lööf designs?
It all started when I was very
young, being the youngest of
six, my clothes were all hand-
me-downs. I wanted to look
different, but not that different
so I started altering second
hand clothes and, from there,
built up towards making them
from scratch.
So, you've always liked to have
an individual style but who,
would you say, is the 'Jennie
Lööf' customer?
Everyone and anyone who
likes to feel special, unique and
quirky. My designs cater for all
ages and types of characters.
You're originally from Sweden,
has your heritage influenced
your designs?
Being Swedish does not
necessarily influence my
designs but rather how I
approach the design process.
My inspirations mainly come
from the people that are closest
to me; my family and friends.
Along with promoting the
collection, do you have any
other projects going on at the
moment?
I always have loads of
projects on the go. I recently
launched my first diffusion
line, ‘LOVELY’, made solely
from contemporary fabrics
and I am currently designing
the costumes for the latest
Barrowlands Ballet production
called ‘Dancing Voices’, which
will be showcased at the
Merchant City Festival and in
London this summer. On top of
this, I am also working on the
designs for my new accessory
line that launches later this
summer as well as for all my
private orders.
What has been your greatest
achievement since starting
your brand so far?
I feel the biggest achievement
is still to come, however I am
enjoying working with charities
in Glasgow; Impact Arts and
Starter Packs Glasgow. I teach
sewing classes and doing this
with a charity ensures that they
are accessible to everyone. And
working with the kids from
Impact Arts is so rewarding.
Finally, what do you hope to
achieve in the future for Jennie
Lööf?
This year I will be launching
my accessory line as well as
my menswear line. Next year,
I will showcase brand new
collections for all 4 lines: Jennie
Lööf, LOVELY, accessory line
– Spat-zera and the menswear
collection. My plan is to have
the ready to wear ‘LOVELY’
line in shops around the world.
welcOMe tO... PARiS
MalaM paris
Photographer: Laura McKinnonMake-up: nikki McMillanStyling: Megan Flockhart
Model: Lauren Haggarty @ Model Team, iona Stoddart @ Superior,
Amy WatsonWords: Corrine McConnachie
83 Hades
THE SUN RISES on a crisp morning in Paris as merchants flee to a side street tucked
away in the corner of the city to set up their stalls for market. Beneath the bustle of early morning
grumbles and the unfolding of tables a faint simultaneous clatter of footsteps can be heard as three
girls appear in the distance, strolling down the cobble street hand in hand. The girls slowly pull into
focus as if they are travelling forward in time. Dressed almost like Victorian porcelain dolls, they
move through the eras and with each step a new chapter in the deeply woven history of Parisian
fashion is told as a new colour, texture, print or layer can be spotted.
84 Hades
85 Hades
Founded in 2007 by Emmanuelle-Marie Remise,
MALAM Paris embodies the ethereal stylishness
of traditional French fashion, from the birth
of couture to the post war Christian Dior ‘New
Look’. Using both vintage and contemporary
customised materials to create a label for the
self-confident romantic, Emmanuelle-Marie
and MALAM Paris have gained fans in France
and the UK, ‘Vintage fabrics and trims hold
so many stories. I love how, when mixed with
contemporary design and a modern accessories,
vintage material instantly adds edge to a
garment.’
After graduating from the EM Lyon Business
School, Marie decided it was time to pursue her
true passion and began a fashion design degree
at the ESMOD Paris Fashion School in 2005.
It was during her years at the ESMOD when
Marie found the MALAM Paris signature style
using lace, embroidery and unusual modern
patterns to create charming dresses, petticoats
and modern blazers. Thanks to an extensive
supply of fabric coupons Marie became a self-
confessed compulsive fabric buyer and managed
to collect an assortment of vintage materials,
‘With too many fabrics and not enough room, I
decided to make dresses out of the fabric to sell.
After selling some dresses I decided I should
make petticoats because my first fitted dresses
were very short. This has become a habit and,
needless to say, I am now swimming in hundreds
of yards of fabric at the workshop.’
From what began as just a way to shift material
soon developed into the establishment of the
MALAM Paris label and, inspired by fairy-tales
and summers spent as a child in an old fashion
castle that belonged to her great grandmother,
Marie created the Poupées Perdues (Lost Dolls)
collection.
86 Hades
87 Hades
88 Hades
89 Hades
With a unique style fusing romance and edge
MALAM Paris caught the attention of the LGN
Events group in London and Marie was invited
to showcase the ever expanding Lost Dolls
collection at their Spring/Summer London
Fashion Week show in 2010 and 2011, ‘Preparing
a collection to showcase is a very interesting way
of working. It is totally in contrast with what I
do the rest of the year because, for runway, I
try to give a homogeneous feel to the garments
shown. It is very exciting and rewarding to see
the finished product.’
After continuously building upon the Lost Dolls
collection, which is sold through the MALAM
Paris online store, Marie sets her goals higher
with the development of a second ready to wear
collection, ‘As sales steadily increase I hope
to expand upon the brand and branch out into
menswear. I would like to open a shop in Paris
and give new life to my designs.’
With all eyes on them the girls glide past me,
gripping a hold of one another and starring
ahead with determination. As they turn around
a new corner, it is clear that their journey with
MALAM Paris has only just begun…
I would like to open a shop in paris and give new liFe to my desiGns...
91 Hades
92 Hades
93 Hades
welcOMe tO... AMERiCA
PARMA
Photography Laura McKinnon
Make-up: nikki McMillan
Styling: Gillian Chalmers, Stephanie Boyle
Model: nicole McCubbin @ Superior,
iona Stoddart @ Superior
Words: Stephanie Boyle
Special Thanks: Gordon Leith,
West End Cafe
VINTAGE
95 Hades
96 Hades
97 Hades
98 Hades
The glamorous life of an air hostess is an ideal career but for Gillian Chalmers it was a mile high platform for the future. What started off as a simple obsession with thrift stores on her travels grew into Parma Vintage; a thriving business based in Gourock selling vintage fashion on a global scale. HADES magazine sat down with
Gillian to talk all things vintage...
99 Hades
100 Hades
What first attracted you to the idea of opening
your own vintage clothing business?
When I worked for Virgin airlines I would often
pick up vintage pieces and sell them online
but I always wanted to open my own shop.
My favourite retro sweets are Parma violets so
in 2009, I set up shop in Gourock and Parma
Vintage was born.
What attracts you most to vintage fashion?
It's original, unique and has a quality that
doesn't really exist anymore. Each piece has a
story behind it that's added to with every owner-
and I guess in a way it's also a form of recycling.
What sets Parma Vintage apart from other
vintage outlets?
The stock is a mixture of both new brands and
vintage so we have a great mix of styles that
allow us to keep on top of seasonal trends. It's
important to cater for all of our customers.
How do you stay connected with your customers?
Has the internet played an important role?
The internet has played a huge part in the
success of Parma Vintage. We use our facebook
page to post real time updates to our customers;
sometimes we post an item on our page and it
sells out the next day. Most of our sales are online
too; last year we opened our ASOS Marketplace
boutique and we have sold items all over the
globe since. The blog feature is a great tool on
ASOS because it allows people from all over to
see what's going on with Team PV.
Who, would you say, is part of Team PV?
Team PV includes me, my staff and the
extended family of Parma Vintage. Anyone
from our customers to our models and creative
contributors are considered to be part of our
team.
What do you hope to achieve in the future for
Parma Vintage and Team PV?
At the moment we are working on rebranding PV
and creating a real corporate image. Everything
is going so well and I can't wait! In the future
I'd like to have more Parma Vintage outlets, who
knows? We may even go global!
101 Hades
102 Hades
103 Hades
104 Hades
105 Hades
www.HadesMaG.cOMjoin the underworld...
we are currently recruiting photographers and journalists to join our team on future issues of Hades. if you are interested, please send a copy of your cv to [email protected].