Canary Islands Spain
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Cana
ry Islan
dsSp
ain
Portugal
France
United Kingdom
Ireland
Morocco
Madrid
Paris
Dublin
London
Lisbon
Ceuta
Rabat
Melilla
Table of Contents
Canary Islands 2The Islands of PerpetualSpringtime 41,500 Kilometers of Atlantic Coast 6Volcanos, Forests, Mountains and Deserts 8A People between ThreeContinents 12A Legendary History 14Fuerteventura 16Lanzarote 20Map of the Canary Islands 24Gran Canaria 26Tenerife 32La Gomera 36La Palma 40El Hierro 44Transportation and UsefulInformation 48
Spain
Canary Islands
Atlantic Ocean
Dakar
Cádiz Funchal (Madeira)
Arrecife (Lanzarote)Las Palmas deGran Canaria
Pto. Rosario(Fuerteventura)
Las Palmas (Gran Canaria)
Pto
. de
la E
stac
a (H
ierr
o)S
anta
Cru
z de
Ten
erife
Bar
celo
na-C
ádiz
-Lis
boa
P
P
P
P
H
E s t re c h o d e l a B a c a i n a
El Río
Bahía de Penedo
Bahía de Gando
Bahía de Formas
Pta. Gorda
Pta. Delgada
Caletade Campo
Playa del PapagayoPunta Pechiguera
Punta Ginés
Punta Gaviota
Punta del Pobre
Punta Martiño
Punta del Cangrejito
Punta de la Entallada
Punta del Matorralo del Morro Jable
Punta de Jandía
Punta Pesebre
Punta del Peñón Blanco
Punta del Salvaje
Playa del Cotillo
Playas de Corralejo
Punta Morro de la Vieja
Punta de la Cueva
Punta de Gando
Punta Tenefé
Punta de Maspalomas
Punta de la Aldea
Punta deGuanarteme
Punta de Anaga
Punta de Abona
Punta Roja
Punta de TenoPunta de la Gaviota
Punta Hidalgo
Punta de los Órganos
Punta Majona
Punta del Becerro
Punta del Peligro
Punta Norte
Punta de Bonanza
Punta Restinga
PuntaOrchilla
Punta de Salmor
Punta Cumplida
Punta de Fuencaliente
Punta Banco
Saliente de las Hoyas
Punta del Mundo
Punta Sardina
Playa de Cancajo
Caleta de Fustes
Ensenadadel Banco
ALEGRANZA
MONTAÑA CLARA
GRACIOSA
LOBOS
P. N.Garajonay
P. N. Cañadasdel Teide
P. N. Caldera
de Taburiente
P. N. deTimanfaya
LANZAROTE
FUERTEVENTURA
GRAN CANARIA
TENERIFE
LA GOMERA
EL HIERRO
LA PALMA
830
832
TF-5
TF-1
821
823
822
822
LZ-2
600
610
620
FV-2
GC-1 81
2
GC-2
OrzolaCaleta del Sebo
Caleta de Famara
Haría
Tinajo
Yaiza
FemésPlaya Blanca
Corralejo
Tostón
Antigua
Gran Tarajal
Betancuria
Morro del JableArtenara
Maspalomas
San Agustín
Arinaga
Fasnia
Las Galletas
AguloHermigua
AlajeróLa Calera
Vallehermoso
Frontera
Taibique
La Restinga
Sabinosa
Mocanal
Puntallana
Breña AltaBreña Baja
Fuencalientede la Palma
Tijarafe
Puntagorda
Garafía Barlovento
Playa de Valle Gran Rey
Puertodel Carmen
Cofete
Pozo Negro
Puerto de la Estaca
Agaete
Arguineguín
Puerto Rico
Playa del Inglés
Tejeda
Los Cristianos El Médano
Los Gigantes
Playa deLas Américas
Los Sauces
CostaTeguise
SANTA CRUZDE
TENERIFE
LAS PALMAS DEGRAN CANARIA
San Sebastiánde la Gomera
Santa Cruz de la Palma
ValverdeArrecife
Puerto del Rosario
Teguise
San BartoloméTías
La Oliva
PájaraTuineje
Playa delas Teresitas
Playas de Sotaventode Jandía
Playas de Barloventode Jandía
Playa de Puerto Rico
Playa de lasCanteras
Playa de la Aldea
Playa de las Cruces
Playa del CantandalPlaya delos Mozos
Playa de Puerto Naos
Playa de las Salinas
Playa de Santiago
Playa de la Entrada
Playa dela Arena
Playa del Perchel
El Matorral
Playa de Janubio
O C É A N O
A T L Á N T I C O
Teide
3.718
Nieves1.949
Malpaso1.500
Roque de los Muchachos2.426
807Jandía
Betancuria724
Chache670
ArucasTeror
TeldeIngenio
GáldarGuía
La Matanzade Acentejo
Puerto de la Cruz
RealejoIcod de los VinosGüímar
Los Llanos de Aridane
San Cristóbalde la Laguna
Agüimes
La Orotava
Candelaria
Tacoronte
Garachico
Granadilla de AbonaAronaSan Miguel
Guía deIsora
Tazacorte El PasoEl Pueblo
Santa Brígida
San Bartolomé de TirajanaSanta LucíaMogán
San Nicolás de Tolentino
Escala 1:1.400.000
NN
Año 1999© Cartografía digitalC/Conde de la Cimera Nº 4
28040 Madrid Tfno. 5536033
10 0 20 30 Km.10
ISLAS CANARIAS
Monumento
Ruinas históricas
Cueva
Camping
Campo de golf
Vista panorámica
Parque Nacional
Puerto deportivo
Autopista
Autovía
Ctra. Red básica 2º orden
Carretera local
Parador
Hostería
Aeropuerto
Castillo
P
H
HighwayMotorwaySecondary Regional RoadLocal RoadParadorInnAirportCastle
MonumentHistoric RuinsCaveCamping Golf CoursePanoramic ViewNational ParkMarina
Canary Islands
P. N.Garajonay
P. N. del Teide
P. N. Calderade Taburiente
TENERIFE
LA GOMERAEL HIERRO
LA PALMA STA. CRUZDE
TENERIFE
San Sebastiánde la Gomera
Santa Cruz de la Palma
Valverde
2
La GomeraThe lack of an airport has helpedto keep the natural environmentof this island, scattered with palmtrees, thoroughly unspoiled. Therare botanical treasures found onits uneven terrain include theancient, dense laurel forest of theGarajonay National Park, declareda World Heritage site by theUNESCO.
El HierroFor centuries, the island of Hierrowas considered the end of theknown world. The smallest andmost westerly of the CanaryIslands, it is a mysterious land,where myths and legends form apart of the landscape as much asthe unusual vegetation and thepeaceful solitude of a land with apopulation of scarcely 8,000.
La PalmaAlso called the “Isla Bonita” orPretty Island, it is the greenestand most flowery of the CanaryIslands. The high mountains andclear skies have made it the ideallocation for the largestastrophysical observatory in thenorthern hemisphere. The centerof the island is a gigantic volcanicdepression 1,500 meters (4,920 ft.)deep comprising the remarkableCaldera de Taburiente NationalPark.
TenerifeThe majestic volcano of MountTeide, 3,718 meters (12,195 feet)high, dominates the largest islandof the archipelago. The greenlands of the north contrastsharply with the arid terrain ofthe south. The mountains,covered with thick forests,culminate in impressive beauty atthe Cañadas del Teide NationalPark. Select tourist complexes aresituated along the shores, takingadvantage of the sunny climate ofthe south and the beautifullandscapes of the north.
P. N. deTimanfaya
LANZAROTE
FUERTEVENTURA
Arrecife
Puerto del Rosario
GRAN CANARIA
LAS PALMAS DEGRAN CANARIA
3
The Canary Islands
LanzaroteVolcanic upheavals on Lanzarotehave shaped a landscape ofunusual beauty. The island iscovered by multi-colored lavawhich is especially spectacular atTimanfaya National Park. Man andthis unique landscape havelearned to live in harmony in anunusual association, wheretraditional architecture andagriculture blend with thevolcanos and beaches.
FuerteventuraThe almost desert-like dryness ofthe island of Fuerteventuracontributes to the existence ofimmense beaches of golden sandwhich open upon a sea of crystal-clear water. Here it is possible towalk on endless stretches of sandhardly ever running into a sole,due to the sparse population andthe length of the seacoast.
Gran CanariaThis “continent in miniature”accommodates in its abruptterrain a surprisingly variedlandscape with brusque changesevery few miles; from the mini-desert of dunes and palm grovesof the sunny south, to thewooded summits, passing byvolcanos, deep ravines, andimpressive scenic views. GranCanaria, the most populated of allthe islands, offers a wide range of
tourist facilities related with itsbeaches, including a large varietyof lodgings, restaurants, shops,sports and entertainment.
4
The Islands of Perpetual
Springtime
The seven islands thatcomprise the Canaryarchipelago are located morethan one thousand kilometers(620 miles) south of the Iberianpeninsula, and only 115kilometers (71 miles) from theclosest point on the Africancoast. Their volcanic origin and
special position in the Atlanticocean have granted themsome unique features withregard to geology andvegetation, resulting in alandscape that is unlike anyother found in Europe orAfrica. These naturalcharacteristics favor theexistence of a temperateclimate with mild
temperatures (22ºC - 72ºFaverage on the coasts) withlittle seasonal variation intemperatures between dayand night.
The climate of perpetualspringtime, which permitsenjoyment of the beach duringall the seasons of the yearwithout extreme oppressiveheat, has also shaped theeasy-going and good-naturedcharacter of its inhabitants.
Since ancient times, the mildclimate has been the mostoutstanding attribute of theCanary Islands. The Greekslocated the Garden ofHesperides here, and duringcenturies, they were known asthe “Fortunate Islands”. Thefame of the Canaries as atravel destination began withthe great scientificexplorations of the 18th and
5
19th centuries, when Europeannaturalists frequently visitedthe unique volcanic landscapesand the varied native flora. Atthe close of the last century,the fame of these islands wasincreased as a place to rest,and they were recommendedfor the treatment of a varietyof illnesses. Presently, theCanary Islands are one of theleading destinations ofEuropean tourism, welcomingmore than eight million visitors
annually who are drawn to theirresistible charm of theseislands.
The appeal of the CanaryIslands for most visitors, 50%of whom return, is closelylinked to the extraordinaryclimate of the islands, but italso has to do with the morethan 1,500 kilometers (930miles) of coastline, the
magnificent beaches, and thenumerous sports and water-related recreation available.The subtropical environmenthas also provided the allure ofvolcanos, forests and otherspectacular scenery, with avariety difficult to imagine insuch a small territory. Thepeople, their traditions andcuisine, inherited from aculture blending traditionsfrom Europe, Africa and theAmericas, have also played a
large part. All of these factorshave contributed to theislands’ popularity, in additionto their easy accessibility, onlya few hours by plane from thegreat cities of the OldContinent, and a completetourist infrastructure, anexample of quality for manyplaces around the world.
Agulo, La Gomera
6
1,500 Kilometers
of Atlantic Coast
The approximately 1,500kilometers (930 miles) ofseacoast the Canarianarchipelago enjoys on theAtlantic provide endlessopportunities to make themost of the good climate byresting on the beach,
swimming, practicing watersports, or simply delighting in the constant presence of the sea.
The waters of the Atlantic areslightly cooler in the CanaryIslands than would correspondto their subtropical latitude dueto the fact that the GulfCurrent moves in a north to
south direction. Moreover, thecharacteristic intense blue colorof the sea attests to the ocean’sdepth of up to 3,000 meters(9,840 ft.) between some of theislands.
The entire coastline provides agreat variety of physical forms,depending on the orientationand the geological processes ofeach island. In the Canaries,there are as many cliff-linedcoasts as vast beaches, which
can be either flat or form dunecomplexes and consist of whitesand at times and black volcanicsand at others.
The oldest islands geologicallyand with the most extensivecoastal shelf - Lanzarote,Fuerteventura and GranCanaria - boast the largest
Marina in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Gran Canaria
7
beaches, almost all of themwith white sand. On thewestern islands, the coast isusually more abrupt, althoughbeaches are plentiful, the sandis usually of volcanic origin. Onthe island of Tenerife, man hascovered part of the beacheswith golden sand brought fromthe Sahara desert or thebottom of the sea, as is the caseof the beaches of Las Teresitasand Playa de las Américas.
As expected, most of the hotelscan be found near the sea,where the climate is mild withaverage temperatures that donot usually go below 19ºC(66ºF) in winter nor above 25ºC(77ºF) in summer. Touristaccommodations in theCanaries have a capacity formore than 400,000 visitors andare among the most importantin Europe. These lodgings are
found distributed among themany coastal developmentsthat include large touristcomplexes with all types ofservices, entertainment andamenities, as well as smallerresorts devoted to rest andrelaxation or boating.
It is also possible to lose oneselfin nature in rural tourismestablishments, takingadvantage of the beauty andvariety of the Canarian
landscapes offering not onlycomfortable accommodations,but also activities related withthe outdoors, including hikingor mountain biking.
Las Teresitas Beach, Tenerife
8
Volcanos, Forests,
Mountains and Deserts
Nature in the Canaries displaysdifferent characteristics fromany other place in the world.From the moment of arrival, theterrain and vegetation tend toastound the visitor because theyare unlike the neighboringcontinents of Africa or Europe.
The origin of these differencesmust be sought in the morethan 20 million years of volcanicupheaval and in the specialposition in the Atlantic whichhas maintained the archipelagoisolated from two drasticclimatic changes: the glaciationsin southern Europe and theformation of the North Africandesert.
The long volcanic history of theislands and the many different
processes and materials havecreated a landscape ofextraordinary shapes andcolors. Scientific interest in theCanaries in this aspect is onlysurpassed by the spectacularbeauty of the large rivers oflava, deep canyons, immensecraters, and lofty volcanos. Ateach step, the terrain acquires
La Corona Volcano, Lanzarote
9
different hues which go fromintense red to yellow, fromgreen to black, passing throughall the shades of brown.
On the other hand, theisolation of the archipelago hassucceeded in preserving theexceptional fauna and flora,including a large number ofnative species. The biologicalwealth of the Canaries has
converted this region into oneof the most important areas ofthe world in this aspect, sinceonly several other archipelagos,such as Hawaii or Galapagos,have a similar number of nativespecies.
Although there is interestingnative wildlife throughout theCanaries, some is known, suchas the canary bird, while otherspecies are in danger ofextinction, such as the giant
lizards, the houbara bustards,the laurel and long-toedpigeons, and the blue chaffinchfrom Teide. But the authenticstar of Canary Island nature isunquestionably the flora.Around 600 native species of
El Teide National Park, Tenerife
10
plants, of the over 2,000 on the islands, are not foundanywhere else in the world.
The endangered evergreenlaurel forests still survive on theCanary Islands after havingdisappeared millions of years ago from the rest of the world.
Their survival on thearchipelago was possiblebecause of the exceptionalclimate which was not affectedby the Quaternary glaciations.These forests once coveredalmost all of southern Europeand northern Africa during theTertiary period, but onlyfossilized remains can be found
Roque Nublo, Gran Canaria
11
in other areas. In the Canaries,these forests are found at highaltitudes near the rings ofclouds on the northern slopesof the western islands. Theforest of El Cedro on Gomera isthe best example of thisbotanical treasure.
The natural attributes of theislands, with their mountainousterrain and contrastingcountryside, make the CanaryIslands a paradise for hiking.The four National Parks(Timanfaya, Teide, Garajonay,
and Caldera de Taburiente) andmore than 100 Parks andNature Reserves make up morethan 36% of the territory of thearchipelago. This largeproportion of protected areasoffers many possibilities forenjoying nature. All of theislands have a network of trailsfor exploring on foot.
Timanfaya National Park, Lanzarote
12
A People between Three
Continents
Throughout centuries, theCanary Islands have been abridge between Europe, Africaand America. Being acrossroads in the Atlantic hasshaped the personality of its
inhabitants, producing a veryopen people with an identitycombining aspects of thesethree continents. After theconquest of the Canaries by theCrown of Castile in 1496, thenative culture of the“Guanches” was enriched withcontributions from theCastilian, Andalusian,Portuguese, Genoeses, Flemish,Norman, Berber, British andJudaic peoples. All of them,along with the constantinfluence of the Americas,make up what the CanaryIsland people are today: amelting pot that embraces the
land of Africa, the spirit ofEurope, and the heart of theAmericas.
Tradition and Culture
The devotion of the islanders totheir traditions has contributedto the preservation of manycustoms and artistic endeavorsunique to the Canarian culture.
Traditional architecture on theislands has its own particularcharacteristics along with acertain colonial style.Portuguese and Andalusianinfluences have given rise toconstructions with a distinctivestyle, incorporating typicalwooden balconies on facadesand in interior courtyards, alongwith sash windows withshutters.
Another important sign ofidentity is the folklore. On theseislands there is an extraordinary
Typical Balcony and Embroidery,Tenerife
13
variety of traditional music, themajority of it from the Iberianpeninsula, some from theAmericas, and some survivingfrom pre-Hispanic culture.
Folk music here is not obsolete;on the contrary, it forms a partof daily life, and there arehardly any islanders who do notreact emotionally to theirtraditional songs. The revival offolk music has had its maximumexponent in the group “LosSabandeños”.
Canarian handicrafts areadmirably represented byopenwork embroidery,embroidery and “roseta”, inaddition to pottery shaped byhand without the aid of apotters’ wheel, an art inheritedfrom the “Guanches.
The most important festival isindisputably Carnival inFebruary. Other celebrations ofinterest include: San Ginés (August 25th) in Lanzarote, Nuestra Señora del Pino(September 8th), La Rama(August 4th) in Gran Canaria,Nuestra Señora de Candelaria(August 15th), Corpus Christi(beginning of June) in Tenerife,Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves(August 5th, every five years) in
La Palma, Nuestra Señora de losReyes (September 24th, everyfour years) in Hierro.
The cuisine is another one of theattractions of the Canary Islands.Its simplicity exalts the quality ofthe native ingredients, includingfresh fish, pork and goat,excellent vegetables, includingpotatoes, and tropical fruit. Thefirst course may consist of avariety of thick soups made ofwatercress, squash or a varietyof vegetables. The vieja orwidow fish must also bementioned, along withmarinated pork and goat.
Pottery, Lanzarote
Traditional Costume, Fuerteventura
14
Indispensable accompanimentsare red and green mojo (anemulsion of paprika and cuminwith chili, oil and vinegar servedwith hot fish; green mojo usesfresh coriander leaves) andpapas arrugadas (wrinkledpotatoes are new potatoesboiled in seawater then bakedand served with spicy mojosauce). The wines also deservespecial mention which arerecovering the fame and qualitythey once had during theRenaissance.
A Legendary History
From days of old, the news ofislands with a temperateclimate beyond the Pillars ofHercules contributed to theclassic mythology of the ElysianFields and Garden ofHesperides. Plato situated thelost continent of Atlantis inthese latitudes, and manyclassical authors described orattempted to position the“Fortunate Islands”, includingHerodotus, Plutarch, Pliny,Ptolemy, Horace and Virgil. Allof them gave cause for thenumerous expeditions whichfinally set the myth in theFortunate Islands, later calledthe Canaries because of theabundance of “cans” or dogson the island of Gran Canaria.
Later, during the Europeanexpansion in the 14th century,the classical legends wereenhanced with voyagers’discoveries that these islandswere populated by peoplenobody knew were inexistence. For the first time inthe history of the westernworld, existence was confirmedof a human being similar to theEuropean but in a primitivestate who did not worship ananthropomorphous god likethe Muslims, but the sun, moon
Cigar-making, La Palma
15
and mountains instead, andwho did not seem to have thevice of greed, but did have anelevated sense of justice. Thisnews, spread by authors such asBoccaccio, renewed the beliefin the Golden Age.
Even today this mythical visionof the Canaries persists, as inthe still recurrent theories ofthe lost continent of Atlantis ofwhich these isles would be thehighest peaks, and in theuncertain origin of the natives.Modern geology andarcheology offer likelyhypotheses on these origins,volcanic-Tectonic for the isles,and African-Berber for theCanarians. It is now believedthat the Canarians were aNeolithic people that probablycame from northern Africa inthe first millennium beforeChrist, made up primarily byCroMagnon-type Berbers.
History was not officiallyrecorded until after theCastilian conquest of theislands, after 94 years ofprogressive occupation.Agriculture then became thebackbone of the islanddevelopment in a chronologicalsuccession of monocultures:first sugar cane in the 16thcentury, then wine in the 17thcentury, later the cochineal dyeindustry in the 19th century,
and afterwards the banana andthe tomato. Lastly came thedevelopment of trade with freeport status, and recently, thearrival of tourism.
The “Guanches”
The mystery surrounding theprimitive inhabitants of theCanaries, the “Guanches”,appeared in the contemporarychronicles of the Castilianconquest and continued duringthe succeeding centuries untilour days. The existence of apeople who were similar inappearance to the Europeanbut in a much more primitivecultural state amazed the worldof that period, giving rise to amultitude of hypotheses, someof which considered the“Guanches” survivors of theEuropean CroMagnon.
On one hand, the impossibilityof classifying their culturalcondition (primitive as far asmaterial things, but advancedin moral and magic-religiousareas, with complex proceduresfor mummification similar tothe Egyptians and Incas); andon the other hand, theiruncertain origin, have createdmany myths surrounding the“Guanches”.
16
Fuerteventura
Endless beaches andtransparent waters
The island of Fuerteventuraindisputably has the biggestand best beaches in thearchipelago. Many of its 340kilometers (210 miles) ofcoastline consist of white sandybeaches practically untouchedand deserted. The vast expanseof sand on the isle makes it
possible to enjoy the sea insolitude, and it is possible, evenon the most famous beaches,such as Sotavento de Jandía,not to run into a sole in manymiles.
The sea is also very special here.Fuerteventura’s coastal shelfcontributes to the existence ofshallow transparent waters thatacquire an extraordinaryturquoise color. The widevariety and wealth of theunderwater fauna make it idealfor scuba diving.
Windsurfing is the crown sportin Fuerteventura. Its coastsannually attract thousands ofenthusiasts convinced that thisis one of the best places in the
world to practice windsurfing.Jandía beach has been the siteof various world championshipsin various categories.
Most of the tourism isconcentrated in the Jandíapeninsula, in the south. This is anature reserve separated fromthe rest of the island and
Morro Jable Beach
17
bordered almost completely byvast beaches of white sand. Tothe west, the beaches ofBarlovento, somewhatdangerous for swimming,remain almost untouched. To the east, a large sandy fringeof some 20 kilometers (12 1/2 miles) in length andmore than one kilometer widein some areas, is the site of twotourist resorts: Costa Calma,near the unequaled Playa deSotavento, and Morro Jable,built around the port wherethe jet-foil departs for theisland of Gran Canaria.
The central and northern partsof the island boast small touristresorts. Near the airport andthe capital city, Puerto delRosario, we find Caleta deFustes. On the northern coast,Corralejo, near an enormousbeach of dunes, is an attractive
spot with a fishing port wherefresh fish can be savored. It isalso possible to take a trip tothe nearby volcanic isle ofLobos, as well as Lanzarote.
A Desert by the Sea
Only 115 kilometers (71 miles)from the African coast, theisland of Fuerteventura is theisland that offers the scenerymost similar to the nearbycontinent. It measures 1,700square kilometers (663 squaremiles) and has been devastatedby erosion for millions of years,giving rise to a desert-liketerrain of gentle hills and vastplains that upon approachingthe sea takes the form ofbeaches of fine golden sand.
LOBOS
FUERTEVENTURA
Corralejo
Tostón
Antigua
Gran Tarajal
Betancuria
Morro del Jable
Cofete
Pozo Negro
Puerto del Rosario
La Oliva
PájaraTuineje
Playas de Sotaventode Jandía
Playas de Barloventode Jandía
Playa del Perchel
El Matorral
807Jandía
Betancuria724
18
The geological age of this islandhas determined its erodedgeography. This is at the sametime the cause of the scantrainfall since the smallmountains cannot retain themoisture-laden oceanic cloudsas in the other islands. Thus, theclimate of Fuerteventura is dryand sunny, favoring only thegrowth of sparse xerophyticvegetation which is,nonetheless, of great botanicalinterest.
This aridness has bestowed theisland with some exclusivenatural privileges. The difficultyfor agriculture has kept thelands in the interior almostuninhabited for centuries,leaving the bare beauty of itsdeserted landscapes practicallyuntouched. Likewise, the dryeroded surface of the island has encouraged some very uniqueecosystems. This is especially
important on the coast, wherethe vast coastal shelf ofFuerteventura has facilitatedthe formation of large sandyecosystems - flat, such as theJandía peninsula, or made ofdunes, as in Corralejo - and richin underwater life.
Spiritual Rock
From among the mostappropriate names that havebeen applied to Fuerteventura,the one given to it by Miguel deUnamuno, the great Spanishauthor, certainly stands out. Hedefined it as the “spiritualrock”, alluding to the magicalcharm this island has for all wholive here, even in spite of, orperhaps because of, the mixtureof sentiments of solitude,seclusion and protection theselands evoke.
Dunes at Sotavento
19
The arid landscape has neverallowed the development ofagriculture beyond what thehard earth and absence ofwater have yielded. This hasconditioned the sparsepopulation. Even today with theexistence of water purificationand desalination systems andthe development of tourism,the population density is thelowest of the islands with only22 inhabitants per squarekilometer. The economy hasbeen traditionally sustained bylivestock, particularly goats,enabling the production of theexcellent cheese ofFuerteventura called“majorero”, in allusion toMaxortata, the former name ofthe island. This artisan industrystill produces the mostrenowned cheeses of theCanaries, frequent winners ofinternational prizes.
Windmills are scattered on thesolitary plains of Fuerteventura,while some of the mostpicturesque towns in the CanaryIslands can be found hidden inthe mountains, includingAntigua, Pájara and Betancuria.The latter is undoubtedly theprettiest village on the island. Itsappearance has hardly changedat all since it was founded atthe beginning of the 15thcentury, and the beauty of thenatural surroundings seems to
possess an ancestral spirituality.Worth visiting are the Church ofSanta María and theArcheological Museum.
The historic monument parexcellence on Fuerteventura isthe Casa de los Coroneles(House of the Colonels) in thetownship of La Oliva in thenorth. This stately mansion withits original architecture was the
residence of the governor ofthe island for centuries andtoday is testimony to theseigneurial rule that persistedup to the 19th century.
The fishing towns of Corralejoand El Cotillo on the northerncoast, paint a more sea-faringpicture of Fuerteventura. Freshfish can be savored at thesepleasant ports.
Church, Pájara
20
Lanzarote
Sand and Lava
The extraordinary light on theisland of Lanzarote isundeniably one of the moststartling features for the visitor.This is due in large part to thecolors of the landscape causedby the various dark hues of thelava contrasting with the clarityof the sandy beaches.
The climate, dry and sunny ascorresponds to its easterlygeographic position but withlow hills, is responsible for theabsence of green in thelandscape, and the sparsevegetation on the island seemsto grow miraculously out of
nowhere, constituting botanicalformations that are often veryrare. One might think that thisdesert-like dryness wouldcreate an unfriendly landscape,but Lanzarote is just thecontrary, the impression thevisitor receives is of an invitingand enchanting land.
A chief attraction in Lanzaroteis its extraordinary volcaniclandscape with a multitude ofremarkable places, includingTimanfaya National Park, ElGolfo, and Los Verdes caves, towhich the superb, golden sandybeaches must be added.
Vineyards, La Geria
21
ALEGRANZA
MONTAÑA CLARA
GRACIOSA
P. N. deTimanfaya
LANZAROTE
OrzolaCaleta del Sebo
Caleta de Famara
Haría
Tinajo
Yaiza
FemésPlaya Blanca
Puertodel Carmen
Arrecife
Teguise
S. Bartolomé
TíasPlaya de Janubio
Chache670
Lanzarote is an example to theworld of tourism sustained byits magnificent integration withthe environment. The hotelinfrastructure, although well-developed, has avoidedagglomeration by adoptingforms more in harmony withthe landscape,including small housing developments and the use of traditional architecture.
The most popular tourist resorton the island is Puerto delCarmen. Although not verylarge in size, it has numerousrestaurants, night spots, shops,and a nice beach. Costa Teguise,further north, assembles agroup of select hotels, wherewe find one of the mostluxurious hotels in Europe. Onthe southern coast, PlayaBlanca is a tourist center thathas grown around a smallfishing port. Nearby are themost stunning beaches on theisland, the idyllic coves ofPapagayo with white sand andcrystal-clear waters, onlyaccessible by dirt roads andpreferably with a 4-wheeldrive vehicle. The relativeisolation of this succession ofbeaches has kept most of themunspoiled.
A Landscape fromAnother Planet
On the island of Lanzarote,where volcanic activity was themost violent, nature andmankind have learned to live inharmony as few places in theworld, forming a uniquelandscape of special beauty andoriginality. The UNESCO hasdeclared the entire island aBiosphere Reserve.
The spectacular volcanicupheavals in Lanzarote, withmore than 300 cones and amultitude of shapes and colorsof lava, have been relativelyrecent; two eruptions in the18th and 19th centuriescovered the center of theisland, molding a landscapethat resembles another planet,a fact which has made it thefrequent setting of science-fiction films.
22
All of this area is called“Montañas del Fuego”(Mountains of Fire) and hasbeen declared a National Park.A visit includes a bus tourthrough the most solitary placesof this mysterious lava mass, aswell as a demonstration of theheat still preserved by the earth,350ºC (662ºF) only an inch or sofrom the ground, capable ofburning a bundle of straw inseconds or grilling a steak.
In addition to the attractions atthe protected area of TimanfayaNational Park, the surroundingsoffer many other points ofinterest, such as a ride aroundthe volcanos on a camel, ananimal traditionally used foragriculture on the island, theunique crops at La Geria, thecoastal area of Los Hervideros,where lava and the Atlantic
have converged to create atormented rockscape, and thespectacular emerald greencrater of El Golfo.
Other places on the island alsomerit a visit, including thebeaches of Papagayo in thesouth; the cliffs and beach ofFamara to the west; the CactusGarden, the malpaís de laCorona, with the mysteriousvolcanic tubes of the Jameos delAgua and Los Verdes Cave, andthe splendid lookout of Miradordel Río in the northern part ofthe island. From here thenearby archipelago of Chinijocan be seen, consisting of theisles of La Graciosa, MontañaClara, and Alegranza.
Green Lagoon, El Golfo
23
The Legacy of CésarManrique
It is impossible to speak oftraditional architecture inLanzarote without mentioningthe name of César Manrique.This 20th century artist,designer, sculptor and architectdevoted his life to the islandwhere he was born,rediscovering the beauty of thelandscape and the culture ofLanzarote. Thanks to hisdetermination and originality,the islanders began toappreciate their architecture ofwhite walls, green windows,and unique chimneys. The artistdesigned many of thestructures which are nowexamples of the harmony thatcan exist between architectureand nature, including theMonumento al Campesino(Monument to the Peasant),Jameos del Agua, Mirador delRío (lookout), and the CactusGarden.
Some of the most charmingtowns on the island are Yaiza,Uga, Tías and Haría; all of themwith the typical islandarchitecture. The present capital,Arrecife, and the former one,Teguise, boast the majority ofthe historical monuments. InArrecife, we find San GabrielCastle and San José Castle in theoutskirts. In Teguise, SpínolaPalace in the town center, andGuanapay Castle at the rim of anearby crater, also merit a visit.
Jameos del Agua
San Gabriel Castle, Arrecife
26
Gran CanariaDunes and Palm Trees
Gran Canaria assembles in analmost perfect circle of 1,532square kilometers (597 squaremiles) a little of everythingfound on the other CanaryIslands, in addition to holidayattractions that combine vastbeaches and natural physicaldiversity. This astonishingvariety has turned it into thevacation destination of variousmillions of visitors a year who
seek to enjoy not only the sunand the sea, but also thebeautiful countryside, the culture, and the excellenttourist facilities.
Approximately 50 of the 236kilometers of coastline areoccupied by diverse beaches.Maspalomas, with 250 hectares(618 acres) of dunes by the sea,is unquestionably the focalpoint. In addition to this calmsandy shore, Gran Canaria alsohas abrupt wild areas withsecluded unspoiled spots, suchas Güigüí, or rockscapes thatpush headlong hundreds offeet towards the sea, such asthe cliffs of Andén Verde.Most of the beaches are foundon the southern end of the
island, where the climate issunny and dry. Whereas themountains in the interior retainthe clouds coming from thenorth, the south has clear skiesall year long, and sunbathingand swimming are possible inwinter as well as in summer.Some of the best beaches in this
Sand Dunes at Maspalomas
27
area are near tourist complexesof different sizes, offering theamenities of a large city in somecases, or the quiet of a small
village in others, or thepossibility of practicing watersports.
San Agustín and the Playa delInglés, together withMaspalomas, make up one ofthe most important touristcomplexes in Spain with a large
variety of hotels, apartments,shops, restaurants, bars, andentertainment. The two resortsshare what is possibly the most
well-known beach of thearchipelago; eight kilometers (5 miles) long and up to twometers wide formed by dunesand an oasis of palm trees, an
Countryside, Fataga
GRAN CANARIA
Artenara
Maspalomas
San Agustín
Arinaga
Agaete
Arguineguín
Puerto Rico
Playa del Inglés
Tejeda
Las Palmasde Gran Canaria
Playa de Puerto Rico
Playa de lasCanteras
Playa de la Aldea
Playa de las Cruces
Nieves1.949
ArucasTeror
TeldeIngenio
GáldarGuía
Agüimes
Santa Brígida
San Bartolomé de TirajanaSanta LucíaMogán
San Nicolás de Tolentino
28
authentic mini-desert by the sea.Puerto Rico and Mogán are twosmaller resorts devoted to thepractice of water sports, eachwith its own boating marina.Puerto Rico has a quiet beacharound which it is possible toenjoy a wide assortment ofactivities, including boat trips,windsurfing, deep-sea fishing,parachuting into the sea, etc.The port of Mogán is an
attractive enclave of traditionalarchitecture located in a fishingvillage. Its flower-adornedstreets open onto a harborwhere hundreds of boats aredocked and excellent fresh fishis plentiful.
A Continent in Miniature
The incredible variety of sceneryin Gran Canaria merits it thedescription of “a continent inminiature”. In effect, togetherwith its beaches and theexcellent tourist infrastructure,this island offers physical varietythat never ceases to amaze thevisitor with contrasting changesevery few miles. Its interestingvolcanic profile, the variedvegetation, the deep ravines,and superb views are often hard to imagine from the coast,
Mogán Port
Playa del Inglés
29
and are sometimes hidden fromthe visitor who does not ventureinland. Renting a car is a goodway to discover the changingscenery and provides a myriadof possibilities for the visitorwho enjoys nature excursions.
The island has the shape of acone 60 kilometers (37 miles) indiameter and 1,950 meters(6,396 ft.) in height, furrowedradially by deep ravines. Thechanging geological landscapesof Gran Canaria must beunderstood as the result of theland’s orientation, either northor south, and its geological age,which have determined thedifferent grades of erosion, thepresence or not of rainfall, andthe types of vegetation. Thus,each area of the island andalmost every ravine exhibits adifferent landscape, varyingfrom the almost desert-like
terrain of the south to theimpressive canyons of the west,from the pine groves of thecentral plateaus to the strangevolcanic monoliths of thesummits, from the greenhillsides of the north to theblack volcanos of the centralareas.
The diverse and accessiblenatural environment of GranCanaria together with theexcellent year-round climatefacilitate the practice of ruraltourism and mountain sports.The deep-cut island geographyis a paradise for walking andhiking, providing continuouschanges in landscape and a profusion of secluded spots.
Volcanic Landscape
30
The singularity of Canariannature is best appreciated onfoot, and a complete network ofpaths and “royal trails” havebeen designated for thispurpose.
Towns, Villages and Cities
Gran Canaria, with a populationof 715,000, is the island with thelargest population in thearchipelago. More the half ofthe people are concentrated inthe capital, Las Palmas, thelargest city on the Canary Islandsand one of the most importantports on the Atlantic. Foundedin 1478 by order of QueenIsabella, the Catholic, the capitalpreserves its lovely historiccenter of cobblestone streetsand typical Canarianconstructions, the Veguetadistrict. Here we encounter theCathedral looming over thePlaza de Santa Ana, theinteresting Canario Museum,displaying artifacts of the pre-Hispanic natives, and the lovelyCasa de Colón, exhibitingtestimonies of Columbus’sstopover on this island and theimportance of the Canaries inthe discovery of America.
Las Palmas. Columbus’s HouseLas Canteras Beach
CathedralLa Luz Castle
31
A journey to the interior of GranCanaria uncovers the charm ofthe rural architecture. In thegreen and fertile lands of theagricultural north, the city ofArucas, surrounded by bananaplantations, displays its pastsplendor on the slopes of a
volcano. Not very far away is thetown of Teror, where we findthe basilica of the Virgin of ElPino, one of the most charmingplaces on the inland itinerary,with its handsome traditionalbalconies. Also of interest in thenorthern and central areas are
the agricultural towns of SantaBrígida, San Mateo, Moya, andVallesco, and closer to the coast,Guía and Agaete.
The picturesque villages ofTejeda, Ayacata and Artenaraare perched among the island’s
abrupt summits and framed byspectacular landscapes. In thearid south, the pristine chalky-white of Santa Lucía, Fataga andArteara stands out from amongthe green palm groves.
Meriting special mention are thecities of Telde and Gáldar, bothformer pre-Hispanic capitalswhich preserve invaluablehistoric centers and interestingarcheological remains in theirsurroundings.
Church, AgaeteSanta Lucía
Teresa de Bolivar Plaza, Teror
32
Tenerife
Two Ways to Enjoy the Sea
The beautiful scenerythroughout the Canary Islandsand their Atlantic culturecontribute to the pleasuresderived from the island climateand the sea without having togive up nature excursions orcultural visits. This is especiallytrue on the island of Tenerife,where the marked contrastsand dramatic beauty of itsscenery, as well as the rich
traditions, can be indulged in atthe two large, renownedtourist centers: one in thefertile north, the other in thesunny south.
Puerto de la Cruz is the oldesttourist center in the Canaries.Since the 19th century, it existsas a famous place of rest andrelaxation due to its mildclimate and lovelysurroundings. It is located bythe sea at the foot of the fertileOrotava valley on the northerncoast of the island. The harboris an enclave that blends withthe tropical valley, and itsstreets, filled with trees andflowers, are ideal for strolling.Particularly lovely are the PaseoMartímo promenade and LakeMartiánez, a dramatic area ofnatural pools created by thegreat artist from Lanzarote,César Manrique. In the outskirtsof the city, there are lovelyspots that should not bemissed, including theprestigious Botanical Gardens,and the aviary, Loro Park. Alarge number of excursions toall kinds of places of interestare possible from here by footand by car, only a short distancefrom the city.
Another way to enjoy the sunand sea is at the tourist resortsof the south, more arid andwith a better climate. The Playade las Américas-Los Cristianoscertainly stands out with itswide variety of lodgings,restaurants, bars, night spots,and other amenities for thecomfort of the tourist. All along
Martiánez Lake, Puerto de la Cruz
33
the southern coast, there areother smaller resorts, includingEl Médano for windsurfing,Costa del Silencio and LosGantes; each one with apersonality of its own.
The southern part of the islandis perfect for relaxing on thebeach, swimming in the sea,and practicing water sports,especially windsurfing.
Farmlands under the Volcano
Of all the attractions in theCanary Islands, the imposingPico de Teide volcano, thehighest mountain in all ofSpain, is undeniably one of themost well-known. It rises 3,718meters (12,195 ft.) above sealevel from a large volcanicdepression located at analtitude of 2,000 meters (6,560ft.) in the central part of theisland of Tenerife. This assemblyof strange forms and colors ofsolidified lava, exclusive flora,and the geological singularitymake Teide National Park themost visited one in Spain.
The island of Tenerife is actuallylike a large mountainterminating in the cone of ElTeide. The geological history ofthe island was conditioned bythe eruptions that accompaniedthe formation of the volcano
Surfing at Martiánez Beach, Puerto de la Cruz
P. N. del Teide
TENERIFE
Fasnia
Las Galletas
Los Cristianos El Médano
Los Gigantes
Playa de Las Américas
Santa Cruzde Tenerife
Playa delas Teresitas
Playa de la Entrada
Playa dela Arena
Teide
3.718
La Matanzade Acentejo
Puerto de la Cruz
RealejoIcod de los Vinos
Güímar
San Cristóbalde la Laguna
La Orotava
Candelaria
Tacoronte
Garachico
Granadilla de AbonaAronaSan Miguel
Guía deIsora
34
and covered most of the land,transforming it into steepslopes. Two areas, however,remained untouched by theupheavals: the massifs of Anagaand Teno, geologically olderand with landscapes of deepwooded ravines in the former,and deserted and picturesquein the latter.At the foot of the mountain, avaried and lovely landscape can
be observed that has beenpraised since antiquity. Thenorthern part, traditionallyagricultural, is a green carpetthat runs from underneathMount Teide to the sea: theValle de La Orotava, beforewhich it is said the celebratedGerman naturalist, Humboldtfell to his knees in awe andcalled it the most beautifulscenery on Earth. The highlands
are covered with dense forestswith a complete network ofpaths to explore.
The southern part of the islandpresents a landscape whichcontrasts surprisingly with thenorth. The oceanic clouds,trapped by the high mountainsin the interior, cannot continuetowards the south. For thisreason, the southern area is
always sunny, and as a result,the arid landscape reveals multi-colored lava and desert-likevegetation. Here incrediblelandscapes exist, including theBarranco del Infierno (Devil’sGorge) and the cliffs of LosGigantes (the Giants) with avertical drop of 600 meters(almost 2,000 ft.) from the Tenomassif to the sea.
El Teide
35
A Cheerful FestivePeople
The amiable and garrulousnature of the people in Teneriferelish the celebrations andfestivals. Many traditionalfestivals have been preservedon the island, including thefamous Carnavales. There arefew islanders who do notprepare their Carnival costumesmonths in advance or whodon’t form part of a group ofminstrels.
The most important cities onthe island are the capital, SantaCruz de Tenerife, and thehistoric city of La Laguna. SantaCruz de Tenerife has apopulation of 200,000, a busyport, noble mansions, andlovely gardens and parks. LaLaguna, the former capital, isthe historic and university citypar excellence of the Canaries.Its historic center assembles anumber of stately homes fromthe 17th and 18th century andconcentrates the most notablereligious architecture in thearchipelago. The mansions ofCorregidor, Lercaro, Salazar andNava, as well as the Cathedraland the Church of LaConcepción, are good examplesof this important artistic legacy.
Three towns in the northernpart of Tenerife are famous fortheir local color and historicvalue. La Orotava, in the valleyof the same name, is abeautiful town in the middle ofa sea of banana plantationswhich dresses in a carpet offlowers during the festival ofCorpus Christi. Icod de los vinos,a wine-growing center thatcreated the famous malvasía
(Malmsey) wine, houses in itsattractive historic quarter theisland’s oldest dragon tree,symbol of Tenerife. Garachico,built on land that a river of lavarecaptured from the sea, is apicturesque town ofcobblestone streets andhandsome white buildings.
Carnival
36
La GomeraAn Ecological Paradise
The last island without anairport is, perhaps for thisreason, a haven of ancestralcustoms and incredible naturalbeauty that astounds the visitorwith its rare vegetation andabrupt terrain. In effect, the370 square kilometers (144square miles) of this island is cutby deep ravines. This uneventerrain of Gomera has alwaysmade communications difficultbetween towns, keeping manyareas practically untouched.
The scenery in Gomera issplendid with an amazingsystem of terrace farming andthousands of palm treesperched on steep green valleys,in addition to the exotic foliageof the central plateau,inhabited by the ancient laurelforest enveloped in mist.
All of these attractions havemade a day trip to Gomerafrom the tourist resorts onsouthern Tenerife a popularpastime. The ferry makes thetrip in 90 minutes, and the jet-foil in 40. However, a visit tothis island truly requires morethan a one-day excursion on
account of the difficult roadswhich make it impossible to seethe many attractions in a shorttime.
The best way to explore thescenic areas of La Gomera is totake several days and eithertravel the many paths andpeaceful trails of the island onfoot or by bicycle. Lodging maybe found in the capital city ofSan Sebastián, at Playa deSantiago, and in Valle Gran Rey.
San Sebastián is the largesttown on the island. The ferryand hydrofoil from Tenerifedock here, and there areseveral small hotels andboarding houses. The TouristParador rises on a cliffoverlooking the city in abeautiful setting. The majorityof tourist lodgings can befound at Playa de Santiago, thesunniest spot on the island. Thissmall tourist complex is locatedaround a fishing town whereexcellent fresh fish can beenjoyed. Near the outlet to thesea of the idyllic Valle Gran Rey,there is a small beach and quiet
P. N.Garajonay
LA GOMERA
AguloHermigua
AlajeróLa Calera
Vallehermoso
Playa deValle Gran Rey
San Sebastiánde la Gomera
Playa de las Salinas
Playa de Santiago
37
harbor with a number of smallhotels, boarding houses, andapartments.
Valle Gran Rey has been forsome years the center for analternative tourism committedto the environment that haschosen this spot as the idealplace to escape from an impurecivilization.
A Relic of Nature
Contrary to the rest of theislands in the archipelago, La Gomera never suffered fromvolcanic eruptions during theQuaternary period. Thisgeological particularity haspermitted the preservation ofthe best example in the worldof the evergreen laurel forests
that covered theMediterranean basin during theTertiary period. The centralplateau of the island, at analtitude between 800 and 1,500meters, collides with themoisture-bearing cloudsformed by the trade winds,receiving the constant humidityfrom this sea of mist thatdampens the earth with thephenomenon called “verticalrain”. Since the disappearanceof these forests from otherparts of the world with theglaciations of the Pleistocene,the highlands of Gomera havebeen like a giant greenhousewhere almost 400 native
San Sebastián de La Gomera
38
species, extinct in Europe andAfrica millions of years ago, stillsurvive.
Garajonay National Park, whichoccupies more than 10% of thetotal area of the island, wascreated to preserve thebotanical treasures. In 1986, itwas declared a World Heritagesite by the UNESCO. The 4,000hectares (9,880 acres) of thePark are crowned by the Altode Garajonay at 1,487 meters(4,877 ft.) above sea level. Theecosystem accommodates amultitude of nativeinvertebrates and two species
of endangered birds: the long-toed and laurel pigeons, trulyliving relics.
A complete network of pathsfacilitate exploration of thisexceptional forest. In theVisitor’s Center of “Juego deBolas”, ample information isprovided about the Park’scharacteristics and services, andguided tours may be engaged.
The lowlands not protected bythe Park display a landscapefurrowed by deep-cut ravines,arid in the south and green inthe north with terrace farmingand countless palm trees. On the
Gran Rey Valley
39
coast of Vallehermoso to thenortheast, the basalt columns ofLos Órganos, resembling giantorgan pipes, rise 80 meters (262 ft.) in height.
Colombina Island
The history of Gomera is linkedwith the discovery of America.Not in vain, it was also called“Colombina Island” for itscontribution to this historicdeed. The capital, SanSebastián, was the last placeColumbus touched groundbefore his mission, andafterwards was a customarystopover on journeys to theNew World. The Conde Tower,built in 1449, and the Casa deColón and Casa de la Aduanaare testimonies to the proudhistory of this town, startingpoint for visiting the island.
A brief journey through themost important towns of La Gomera will lead in the
south to the small fishing portof Playa de Santiago; in thewest to the curious town ofChipude, to the foot of theimpressive natural monumentof La Fortaleza, and to thefertile terraces and palm grovesof Valle Gran Rey; and in thegreen north, to the picturesquevillages of Agulo andHermigua.
Remnants of pre-Hispanictraditions contribute to createthe atmosphere of a wild and primitive place. The cave-dwelling people who stillmake pottery without the aidof a potters’ wheel, and aspecial whistling language usedamong the shepherds forcommunicating across ravines,are present-day examples ofthese ancient traditions.
Port, Santiago Beach
Hermigua
40
La PalmaBetween the Atlanticand the Sky
La Palma, the third mostpopulated island, is a long wayfrom experiencing the touristgrowth sustained by GranCanaria and Tenerife. Its scenicbeauty, peace and quiet, local
color, and enormouspossibilities offered for ruraltourism have made it focus onvisitors wishing to combine restand relaxation with thepleasures of nature.
The full name of the island isSan Miguel de La Palma, and ofall the Canary Islands it is theone most influenced by itsAtlantic calling, evidenced in
the greenness of the coasts, inthe rural architecture ofPortuguese influence, and inthe character and traditions ofits people. This grand mountainrising above the ocean 2,426meters (7,957 ft.) at Roque delos Muchachos on a slopecovered with vegetation,preserves a way of life based onthe banana crop and the
perpetuation of its traditionalcustoms. The island lacksindustry, and everyday lifeunfolds with a tranquility thatdoes not take long to affect thevisitor.
The island has a capacity forapproximately 7,000 visitors,distributed among the lodgings
Santa Cruz de la Palma
41
at beach resorts, in the cities,and in rural areas. There aretwo small resorts on the coast,one on the eastern shore, andthe other on the western shore.Los Cancajos to the east, is onlya few miles from the airportand the capital of the island.Puerto Naos, in the agriculturaltownship of Llanos de Aridaneto the west, enjoys a sunnierclimate due to its orientation.Both places grew up aroundtwo tranquil beaches ofvolcanic sand. There are also
hotels situated in the capital,Santa Cruz de La Palma, and inthe second largest city on theisland, Los Llanos, close to theCaldera de Taburiente.
An increasing number ofmountain hotels and houses forrural tourism are also available.This is an important touristsector in La Palma due to thesuitability of its countryside forall types of activities related tonature.
Isla Bonita
After contemplating theoverwhelming greenery on LaPalma, it is not hard tounderstand why Canarians callit the “isla bonita” or prettyisland. Plenty of water andfertile volcanic soil assure thesurvival of forests of greatbotanical interest.
Los Tilos Forest
P. N. Calderade Taburiente
LA PALMA
Puntallana
Breña AltaBreña Baja
Fuencalientede la Palma
Tijarafe
Puntagorda
Garafía Barlovento
Los Sauces
Santa Cruz de la Palma
Playa de Puerto Naos
Roque de los Muchachos2.426
Los Llanos de AridaneTazacorte El Paso
El Pueblo
42
The laurel forests covering thenorthern part of the islandbetween 500 and 1,500 meters(1,650-4,900 ft.) are authenticrelics of the past, the lastrepresentatives of the foreststhat covered southern Europeduring the Tertiary period. Inthe narrow ravines of the
northern area of the island, 20native species of trees form adense mass of vegetation oftencovered by mists. The ravines ofCubo de la Galga and Los Tilos,the latter declared a BiosphereReserve by the UNESCO, arehome to magnificent examplesof these forests, transversed bypaths to explore on foot.
The Canarian pine trees of theCaldera de Taburiente makeup, along with the surroundinggeological environment, themost well-known landscapeson the island and one of themost spectacular on the CanaryIslands. Declared a NationalPark since 1954, the Caldera deTaburiente is a giganticdepression of volcanic anderosive origin that occupies theentire center of the island. This crater 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) in diameter with acircumference of 28 km. (17 miles), and 1,500 meters(4,920 ft.) deep shelters alandscape untouched by man,startling on account of its hugesize and isolation. To observe it in all of its splendor, thereare various lookouts: La Cumbrecita, Las Chozas, andRoque de los Muchachos, thehighest point on the island,where we find the largestAstrophysical Observatory inthe northern hemisphere.Within the Caldera deTaburiente, there is a networkof paths with various itinerariesfor exploration on foot.
Another point of interest is aridge of volcanic peaks whichform a raised spinetransversing La Palma fromNorth to South. The so-called“Route of the Volcanos” runsalong this line of cones andcraters terminating at the
Caldera de Taburiente
43
southernmost tip of the islandat Teneguía volcano, scene ofthe most recent eruption onthe archipelago in 1971.
Spanish ColonialAmbience
The importance of La Palmaduring the Renaissance, whenits capital Santa Cruz becamethe third most important portof the Spanish Empire afterSeville and Antwerp, has left avaluable architectural legacy.The artistic splendor that tookplace during the reign of theHapsburgs is evidenced in thelovely civil and religiousconstructions, as well as aprofusion of Flemish imagery.
Handiwork on La Palma, whichincludes the manufacture ofcigars and silk by traditionalmethods, competes with theexcellent cuisine, boasting thebest “mojos” in the Canaries.
In Santa Cruz de La Palma, themost charming buildings on theisland can be found, built inSpanish Colonial style. The oldquarter, designated a Historic-Artistic Complex, assemblesimportant architecturalexamples around the Calle Realand the Plaza de España,including the parish Church ofEl Salvador, the Ayuntamiento(Town Hall), the Church of SanFrancisco, and the Palace ofSalazar, among others.
Other interesting towns on the island are Los Llanos, the second largest city on theisland; El Paso, famous formanufacturing silk and cigars;Fuencaliente, a wine-growingcenter; and Mazo, in whoseoutskirts we find the pre-Hispanic cave of Belmaco.
Hand-processed Silk
Popular Architecture, Santa Cruz
44
El HierroThe End of the World
During centuries, the island ofHierro was considered a far-away mysterious place wherethe world seemed to end. Thishas encouraged an age-oldisolation that has kept it tied toan agricultural economy and itsancestral traditions. Thus, theinhabitants live a very relaxed,unhurried way of life, inharmony with a landscape thatprovides a haven of tranquility
throughout the island, wheretime seems to pass ever soslowly.
The belated discovery of thetourist possibilities of Hierrohave kept the land free fromthe type of developmentgenerally associated with thissector. This factor hasencouraged realization of the
enormous treasure there is inthe purity and tranquility of theisland, thus focusing tourism onthe visitor wishing to flee fromthe hustle and bustle andworries of modern-day life“losing himself at the end ofthe world”. Some small
EL HIERRO
Frontera
Taibique
La Restinga
Sabinosa
Mocanal
Puerto de la Estaca
Valverde
Playa del CantandalPlaya delos Mozos
Malpaso1.500
Tamaduste
45
lodgings have appearedscattered throughout theisland, but there are no largetourist complexes. Most hotelaccommodations can be founddivided among the TouristParador at Las Playas, thecapital Valverde and its coastalarea, and the area of El Golfo,where we find Club PuntaGrande, listed in the GuinessBook of Records as the smallesthotel in the world.
Hierro has an abrupt coastline,but there also are small covesand natural pools where thetransparent waters are perfectfor swimming and underwaterexploration. The coastal townsof Timijiraque, La Caleta, andTamaduste offer idealconditions for enjoying the sea,particularly Tamaduste with itsinteresting natural lava poolopening onto the sea.
Where Time Stands Still
In the southwest corner of theCanarian archipelago, theisland of Hierro has remainedimmersed in legends. It isdifficult to forget that forcenturies it was considered theend of the known world, themost westerly patch of land,beyond which there was onlythe endless sea. For this reason,it is impossible to observe thelandscape without it evoking
the legends that have enduredalongside it: the elusive magicalisland of San Borondón, whichappears and disappears in theocean and can sometimes beseen on the horizon through
the mist, or the sacred Garoétree, whose branches suppliedthe water for the entire islandin times of the pre-Hispanicnatives.
Nature on Hierro is solitary andmysterious, giving theimpression that time is standingstill. The twisted lava at Puntade Orchilla boasts the mostwesterly lighthouse in Spain.Here they once thought it wasthe end of the world, and forthis reason it was used bygeographers as zero meridianuntil relocated to run throughGreenwich. El Sabinar of LaDehesa shelters the last forestof juniper trees unique to
El Sabinar
46
El Hierro with bizarre wind-twisted shapes. The wildlifealso seems to have stoppedevolving here. On aninaccessible cliff, opposite theRoques de Salmor, an authenticliving fossil has survived here:the giant prehistoric lizard ofHierro.
The geography of the islandwas determined by the giganticdepression of El Golfo, a semi-circumference of 25 kilometers(15.5 miles), isolated by cliffs ofup to 1,000 meters (3,280 ft.)high opening onto the sea,occupying all of the northernpart of Hierro. This is the mostfertile and flattest area, wheremost of the agriculture takesplace. The rest of the islandrises from the sea up to 1,501meters (4,923 ft.) (Malpasopeak) in only four kilometers.These slopes are covered in thecentral area by a lovely pine
grove, where the greennesscontrasts with the blackness ofthe lava at a line of volcaniccones. The coast terminatesoften in abrupt cliffs andinteresting shapes, such as theRoque Bonanza, a strange rockformation rising straight out ofthe sea a few feet from theshore.
Legendary Traditions
Valverde, the only capital of thearchipelago not located by thesea, is the most important townin Hierro with a population ofscarcely 3,500. Its peacefulnessand scattered population arealmost a preview of theleisurely atmosphere on theisland awaiting the visitor. Theinland towns of Tiñor and SanAndrés still cling to the memoryof the Garoé tree. The southern
La Peña Lookout, El Golfo
47
slope of the island ends at the southern tip in the small fishingvillage of La Restinga, a spotwith clear calm waters andexcellent fish.
To the north, the lands of ElGolfo seem to form part of adifferent island, separated asthey are by sheer rock facesmore than 1,000 meters high.Agriculture here is prosperousand the traditional grapevinebegins to alternate with themore recent tropical pineapple.In Frontera, capital of thisfertile region, the quality of theproducts can be appreciated,including, in addition to thepineapple, the famouscheesecakes, delicious smokedcheese, and excellent wines.
There is one event on the islandof Hierro that overshadows allothers: the Bajada de la Virgen
de los Reyes (the Descent of theVirgin of the Kings), at LaDehesa down to Valverde.Every four years since 1643, theimage of the Virgin is removedin the darkness of the earlymorning hours on September24, accompanied by singing anddancing to the beat of drumsand whistles. This celebration isundoubtedly one of the mostfascinating on the CanaryIslands.
Tourist Parador, Valverde
Virgen de los Reyes Hermitage
48
TRANSPORTATION
Getting There
By plane:From the Iberian peninsula: dailyflights are available to Gran Canaria,Tenerife, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura.Two flights per week to La Palma from Madrid.From abroad: daily flights by regularand charter services are available fromthe leading European cities to Gran Canaria and Tenerife. Charter flightsto Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, and LaPalma. (There are daily connectionsbetween Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, LaPalma, and Hierro from Gran Canaria andTenerife).
By boat:A Trasmediterránea line connects Cádizwith Santa Cruz de Tenerife and LasPalmas de Gran Canaria. The journeytakes 36 hours.
Transportation between the Islands
By air:There are daily flights from Gran Canaria and Tenerife to all of theislands (except Gomera) with BinterAirlines (Gran Canaria: 928 44 01 00;Tenerife: 922 23 43 46)
By Ferry:All of the islands are connected by ferrywhich also transports cars. Two companies, Trasmediterránea (Gran Canaria: 928 26 56 50; Tenerife: 922 28 78 50) and FredOlsen (Gran Canaria: 928 29 23 54; Tenerife: 922 62 82 00) are available.
Jet-foil:Hydrofoil service is available betweenGomera, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, andFuerteventura. Trasmediterránea.
INFORMATION OF INTEREST
Area Code International: 34
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERSMedical Emergencies 061National Police 091Municipal Police 092Citizen Information 010
TOURIST INFORMATIONTURESPAÑA 901 300 600www.tourspain.es
Regional Tourist Authorities. Plaza delos Derechos Humanos. Edificio de usosmúltiples 6ª & 7ª planta. 35003 Las Palmasde Gran Canaria. 928 38 42 48, Fax 928 36 95 39.Gran Canaria Local TouristAuthorities. León y Castillo, 17. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
928 36 22 22.Tenerife Local Tourist Authorities.Plaza de España. Palacio Insular. SantaCruz de Tenerife. 922 60 55 90
USEFUL INFORMATION
Province of Las Palmas
FuerteventuraSize: 1,660 km2 (647 mi2)Highest point: 807 m. (2,646 ft.)Population: 41,629Tourist Information (Puerto del Rosario):Avda. Primero de Mayo, 33.
928 85 10 24
Gran CanariaSize: 1,560 km2 (608 mi2)Highest point: 1,950 m. (6,396 ft.)Population: 714,139Tourist Information (Las Palmas):León y Castillo, 17. 928 36 22 22
LanzaroteSize: 846 km2 (307 mi2)Highest point: 670 m. (2,198 ft.)Population: 77,233Tourist Information (Arrecife):Parque Municipal. 928 81 18 60
Province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
El HierroSize: 269 km2 (105 mi2)Highest point: 1,501 m. (4,923 ft.)Population: 8,338Tourist Information (Valverde):Licenciado Bueno, 3. 922 55 03 26
La GomeraSize: 370 km2 (144 mi2)Highest point: 1,483 m. (4,864 ft.)Population: 16,978Tourist Information (San Sebastián):Calle del Medio, 20. 922 14 01 47
La PalmaSize: 708 km2 (276 mi2)Highest point: 2,426 m. (7,957 ft.)Population: 81,521Tourist Information (Santa Cruz)O’Daly, 22 . 922 41 21 06
TenerifeSize: 2,034 km2 (793 mi2)Highest point: 3,718 m. (12,195 ft.)Population: 665,562Tourist Information (Santa Cruz):Plaza de España s/n. 922 23 95 92
TOURIST PARADORSReservation Center. Calle Requena, 3.Madrid 28013. 91 516 66 66, Fax 91 516 66 57. www.parador.esCañadas del Teide. Isla de Tenerife.
922 38 64 15, fax 922 38 23 52Santa Cruz de La Palma. Isla de La Palma.
922 41 23 40, fax 922 41 18 56San Sebastián de La Gomera. Isla de La Gomera. 922 87 11 00, fax 922 87 11 16El Hierro. Isla de El Hierro.
922 55 80 36, fax 922 55 80 86Hostería Cruz de Tejeda. Isla de GranCanaria. 928 66 60 50, fax 928 66 60 51
SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATIONOFFICES ABROADCanada. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West 34 th floor. TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2
1416/961 31 31, fax 1416/961 19 92e-mail: [email protected] Britain. London. Spanish Tourist OfficeManchester Square, 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP
44171/486 80 77, fax 44171/486 80 34e-mail: [email protected]. Tokyo. Tourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105
813/34 32 61 41, fax 813/34 32 61 44e-mail: buzón.oficial@ tokio.oet.mcx.esUnited States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211
1323/658 71 88,fax 1323/658 10 61e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office Of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845, North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611.
1312/642 19 92, fax 1312/642 98 17e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell Avenue. MIAMI, Florida 33131.
1305/358 19 92, fax 1305/358 82 23e-mail: [email protected]
New York. Tourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor. NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103
1212/265 88 22, fax 1212/265 88 64e-mail: [email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35.
91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16. 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano, 109.
91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21United States of America: Serrano, 75.
91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03
CONSULATESGreat Britain: Plaza Weyler, 8-1. 38003 SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE.
922 28 68 63. C/ Luis Morote, 6-3. 35007 LAS PALMAS DEGRAN CANARIA. 928 26 25 08Japan: C/ Santiago Rusiñol, 12. 35005 LAS PALMAS. 928 24 40 12United States of America:C/ Los Martínez de Escobar, 3. 35007 LAS PALMAS. 928 27 12 59
Text:Hugo Palacios
Translation:J. West
Photographs:Turespaña Archives
Layout:Florencio García
Published by:© Turespaña
Secretaría de Estado de Comercio,Turismo y PYME
Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda
Printed by:Egraf, S.A.
D. L.: M. 16414-1999
NIPO: 104-99-009-8Printed in Spain
2nd. Edition
I
Cana
ry Islan
dsSp
ain
TurespañaSecretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYMEMinisterio de Economía y Hacienda
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