Guardian Guide to Green Travel

THE GUARDIAN

GREENTRAVEL GUIDEHOW TO PLAN YOUR IDEAL BREAK

Edited by Liane KatzPreface by

Alastair Sawday

Title: Guardian Green TravelGuide

Author: Liane Katz (ed)Date: 05/02/09

Format: Crown quarto pbSize: 246 x 189 mmSpine: 22mm (TBC)Finish: matt laminate

Cameron [email protected]

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THEGUARDIANGREEN

TRAVELGUIDEwww.guardianbooks.co.uk

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Travel

In these eco-conscious times,we’re all keen to travel a littlegreener, but how canwemake surewe’re getting the realdeal? Travel companiesmay be scrambling to flag up theirenvironmentally friendly credentials and offer carbon-neutral flights, stays in sustainable eco-lodges andmeals oflocally sourced produce, but how canwe tell what’s genuineandwhat’s just greenwash?

The Guardian Green Travel Guide is here to help. Demystifyingenvironmentally responsible travel, it cuts through the jargonand gets to the bottom of what you really need to know. It’spacked full of invaluable information on everything fromethical volunteering to sustainable skiing, and containshundreds of holiday ideas, from ‘green safaris’ to island-hopping in the UK. Not only that, it also includes alisting of over 100 hand-picked places to stay whichcome with the recommendation ofgreentraveller.co.uk.

Compiled by the editor of the UK’s leading travelcontent site (guardian.co.uk/travel) and withcontributions from the UK’s top green travel writersincluding Alastair Sawday, Leo Hickman, RichardHammond and Hilary Bradt, this sumptuouslyillustrated, fact-packed guide will revolutionisethe way you holiday both now andin the future.

Cover design by Two AssociatesFront cover image © britainonview/Philip FentonBack cover image © shutterstock/Chris Sargent

Kings Place, 90 YorkWay, London N1 9GU

‘Everything youneed to travelwith your eyes open’TomHall, Lonely Planet

Green Travel Guide pb:Layout 3 21/4/09 17:10 Page 1

Steps leading to Man O’ War Bay,Dorset

photo: shutterstock/Igor Kozel

CONT

ENTS

Foreword – Alastair Sawday 10Introduction – Liane Katz 12

SECTIONONE:What is Green Travel? 21

What is responsible tourism? 22Flying 59Carbon offsetting 81

SECTIONTWO:Way to go… 91

By train or bus 92By boat 110By bike 126On foot 135Under canvas 147Active 156Fairtrade and ethical 183Family friendly 199

SECTIONTHREE:Directory 211in associationwith greentraveller.co.uk

Excess baggage 271Index 277

High above the ApennineMountains, Italy

photo: shutterstock/ligio

FLYING“There isnopointbeingenvironmentally concernedall yearandthenbingeingonholiday,” points out Harold Goodwin, director of the International Centre forResponsibleTourismatLeedsMetropolitanUniversity.Howevermuchweall choosetocutourgreenhousegasemissions,weshouldnotconveniently forget theportioncontributed by our travels.

In fact, Britons producemore carbon emissions fromair travel per capita than any othercountry – at 603kg per year, according to a 2007 study by market research firm GlobalTGI, which blamed our bingeing on a series ofwetter summers and our predilection forlow-cost flights. Alongside the burgeoning short-haul sector, we are also taking moreandmore long-haul flights, which account for a disproportionately high percentage ofUK aviation emissions. And it is this pace of growth that worries scientists andenvironmentalists themost.

“The future of aviation is complex andno one knowswhat an environmentally safe levelis, but what is absolutely certain is that the increases projected by the UK industry andsanctioned by government are completely unsustainable,” warns Charlie Kronick ofGreenpeace. Scientists at the Tyndall Centre for Climate Change Research echo that ifaviation is allowed to grow at rates even lower than those being experienced today, theUK could see aviation accounting for between 50% and 100% of its total carbon budgetby 2050 under climate change stabilisation agreements.

But do we really have to give up flying, or simply cut down? Just how bad is flying andwill the scientists come to our rescue with a “technofix”? Are there any ways to cut orcompensate for our emissions if we do fly – and if we do make the switch, is it alwaysbetter to take the train or can driving a car full of passengers compete on fuel efficiency?Canwe reallymake a difference by cutting down on our flyingwhile China’s airmarkethas nearly tripled since 2000? Can we fly if we don’t drive a car?

On the followingpages, theGuardian’s specialistwriters on science, the environment andethical living unravel the complex facts behind different modes of transport to enableyou to understand your carbon footprint and choose the best option for your next trip.

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a view fromafrica...

Climate change is a result of the richworld’s inability to live sustainably and, aswith theozone hole, we in the developing world suffer the worst consequences. The averageEuropean emits 9,000kg of CO2 a year, the average American emits 22,000kg and theaverage African emits about 1,000kg. This means that while the rich world mustdecrease its average CO2 emissions drastically, weAfricans are entitled to increase oursmoderately as we pull ourselves out of poverty.We are the forest, you are the factory, sowhy should we be penalised for your smoke?

I help to runBulungula Lodge, a community-owned lodge in oneof thepoorest,mostremote amaXhosa villages in SouthAfrica. The village has no school, no clinic, no road,no electricity, no shop, nopipedwater andno toilets. The lodge runs on solar energy, usescompost toilets and recycles its grey water through a lush banana circle. It offsets CO2emissions from its vehicles by planting 50 slow-growing forest trees per year andwewillsoonoffer guests the opportunity to offset their airplane emissionsbyplanting three treesof their own.

The communitynot only jointly owns the lodge, but also runs the activities that allowguests to immerse themselves in the cultural and natural environment: you can walkthrough the forestswith a herbalist learning about traditionalmedicines; ride horses onthe beach; canoe up the Xhora river; or just hang out at the local shebeen, where thetraditional umqombothi beer never runs out.

More than 40 jobs have been created by the lodge and associated businesses,whichinclude guidedhiking, village cultural tours, a solar restaurant, honeyprojects, a nursery,a low-pressure, drip-irrigated veggie farmsupplying the lodge, guided fishing, and craft-

the guardian green travel guide

making. This means that almost half the families in the village have moved on fromsubsistence farming andnowhave an income (and thusmoney formedicines and otheressentials).

If this lodgewere to close, the only other realistic source of income for local peoplewouldbe the rich titaniumdeposits foundon thebeaches andprimarydunesof this coastalparadise. The mining companies have already begun tempting communities withlucrative deals.

I believe the fairway to attributeCO2emissionsgeneratedbyholiday travel is to “give”them to the destination country. In SouthAfrica,wehave 1million foreign tourists flyinghere annually, each emitting about 2,300kg of CO2 in the process.When divided by our45million population thiswould raise our average emissions by amere 51kg per personper year. It would be utter hypocrisy to demand that South Africa reduce its averageemissions by 51kg a yearwhenAfrica is by far the least polluting continent onEarth, andin the process destroy its tourism economy creating widespread poverty. Instead ofincreasing our emissions by building factories,weprefer to fly tourists to our continent.Youwouldn’t dispute our right to build a factory, sowhy complain about these flights?This isn’t “creative” accounting, this is fair accounting.

Yes, cancel your holidays to Europe,Australia and theUS, countries that have grownrich from climatic destruction/ industrialisation. Cancel your business trips (use videoconferencing) and holidays to the rich world (by train, plane or bus), and save up for aworthwhile holiday to the developing world. Your CO2 emissions are on us!

DaveMartin

Flying

Maasai reserve, Kenyaphoto: shutterstock/franck camhi

carbon kg/grouplow high

London –Barcelona

1 person 213 3272 people 425 6544 people 851 1308



data and analysiscourtesty of

www.forumforthefuture.org


Edinburgh –Bristol




THEGREENESTWAY TO GO...Rail is usually the greenestoptionbut this can can varydependingonthe route, thetypeof fuel and thenumberof people travelling.

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Birmingham –Nice





London –Budapest






Manchester –Florence





Newcastle –Amsterdam





London –Geneva





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BY BIKECycling leads the way in zero-carbon travel, with the chance to travel greatdistances free of cost, guilt and timetables. It’s a healthy choice that can leadyou to someof theworld’smost stunning landscapes.Whether youcycledirectlyfrom your front door or pick up a bike when you arrive, getting around on twowheels is a great way to reduce your holiday footprint. Look out for self-serviceschemessuchasVélib’ inParisandMarseilleandCyclocity inBrussels. Inthissectionwe hope to inspire you with classic rides the world over, and a few in yourbackyard too.

It is quite tricky to pinpoint, when you factor in bleeding buttocks, unidentified insectlife crawling inpanniers and ridiculous, permanent tan lines, exactlywhatmakes travellingby bicycle such a profound joy. Certainly, anyonewhowould rather don a pair of paddedshorts than loll on a sun-drenched beach should be treated with a respectful amountof caution.

Sweating, aching, chaffing do not a holiday make. Especially when they are in theservice of a destinationwhich you reach just as it’s time to go home. Butwithin all greatmadness there is a touch of logic. My friend Chris, who, after one particularly arduousday in the saddle, unexpectedly foundhimself sipping vodka in a saunawith three chasteFinnish girls,wouldprobably be able to argue very convincingly in cycle touring’s favour.

He’d start by saying one of themost amazing things about life on a bike is that youliterally never know what the day is going to bring. This starts off horribly – usuallyinvolving something like being marooned in the middle of a motorway while you pull13 thornsoutof yourback tyre. But after gettingused to, it provides thephysical translationof the saying, “It’s not thedestination that’s important, it’s the journey.” Perhaps a friendlymotoristwill come to your aid and you finish the daymunching home-cookedmeatloafwith some new friends.

Forget plans. As soon as you leap eagerly into the saddle, the road unravels beforeyou on a minute-by-minute basis. It’s a sense of freedom we don’t usually get toexperience. And the best bit is, because you are totally self-sufficient, because you carry


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Why I love ... cycling touring

everything you need to survive with you, suddenly life becomes a heady clash ofopportunities. Do you go left or right? Stop for the night where you are, or see what’sover that hill? Have another drink with this strange-lookingman or with that group ofFinnish girls?

As long as you keep your body fuelled – honestly if you ever needed an excuse to eata gallon ofNeapolitan ice cream, cycle touring is it – there is nowhere you can’t go. Andevery place youpass through, you taste, smell and feel somuchmore acutely than if youhad sped through in a soft-top at 70mph. Small towns, friendly faces, simple pleasuresyou get to see them all. Unless you’re gasping for breath on a grass verge, which doesoccasionally happen.

Relaxationdoesn’t necessarilymean spa retreat inThailand.Moving slowlyuponEarth–wakingwhen the sun rises, sleepingwhenyour body is tired –brings you into apeacefulrhythmwith nature which is incredibly soothing for the soul.

SusanGreenwood

By bike

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Using the Vélib' bike hirescheme, Paris

photo:

JCDecaux,op

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Vélib

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gr5, franceOneof the best-knownof Europe’s sentiers de grande randonnée, or long-distance paths,the GR5 runs from theNorth Sea to theMediterranean via theAlps. The southern third,amonth’s trek fromLake Geneva to Nice, is themost spectacular. DavidMay, author ofthe informative grfive.comguide, claims themix ofAlpine pastures, snow-tippedpeaksand charming inns, such asLesGentianettes inLaChapelle d’Abondance (gentianettes.fr),along this section puts it on a parwithNepal’s Annapurna circuit. There are numeroushostel-style refuges and gîtes d’étape along the way.

London-Geneva via Paris onEurostar andTGV takes about eight hours, fromaround£64oneway;Nice to LondonbyTGVandEurostar via Lille takes aroundninehours, from£63 one way (seat61.com).

kerryway, irelandYoudon’t have to cross Europe to find a decent hike. A circular route around the Iveraghpeninsula, theKerryWay takes in 215kmof rugged lakes,mountains,woodlands and coastaswell as historic houses, ruined abbeys and standing stones. Todo it independently takes10 days (see kerryway.net) or see the highlights – including lakeside Muckross House(muckross-house.ie) and Black Valley (so-called because all its inhabitants died duringthe great famine) in sevennights’ B&BwithContours (017684 80451, contours.co.uk) andhave your luggage carried for you.

Tobook through train travel from theUK toKillarney, the start and finishpoint, plusthe Fishguard-Rosslare ferry, contact SailRail (08450 755 755, sailrail.co.uk).

sentiero francescano della pace, italyAt just 40km, Umbria’s Sentiero Francescano della Pace (sentierofrancescano.provincia.perugia.it) is ideal for a long weekend. The pilgrimage path from Assisi toGubbio retraces the route St Francis is said to have taken in 1206 after relinquishing hisfortune in favour of a more humble life. You can even follow the saint’s lead and breakyour journey at Vallingegno Abbey (00 39 075 920 158), now a comfortable agriturismohotel, doubles from!91.


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Long-distancewalking holidays5

The nearest station to Assisi and Gubbio is Perugia, around two hours fromFlorence (from!8.75 each way; trenitalia.com). To get to Florence, take the Eurostar toParis, and then an overnight sleeper (around £115 return, raileurope.co.uk).

camino de santiago, spainThismonth-longpilgrimage trail ends at SantiagodeCompostela,Galicia,whereSt James’remains are supposedly buried. Routes abound, but the most popular, the “CaminoFrancés”, runs for around 780kmeast towest crossing the French-Spanish border fromSt Jean Pied de Port. Don’t expect a walk in the park: some still attempt it as penance(caminodesantiago.me.uk). Less hardcore is the final section from Burgos, taking twoto threeweeks. You can stay cheaply or for free in the pilgrimage huts and hostels alongthe route.

Plymouth-Santander from £59pp return (01752 227941, brittany-ferries.co.uk);Santander to Burgos is around two and ahalf hours by bus; Santiago deCompostela backto Santander from six hours (see alsa.es, the Spanish bus service).

lycianway, turkeyYou’ll needboth swimsuit andhikingboots tomake themost of this 509kmtrek. FollowingTurkey’s southern coast fromFethiye toAntalya, it passeswhite sand beaches, unspoiltvillages, and sites such as the ancient Lycian city ofMyra. Leave amonth for the full thing(lycianway.com), althoughmost people break it down intoweek-long sections, campingor sleeping in rustic guesthouses, suchas theWatermill inFaralya (natur-reisen.de,!43pp).

Getting there is part of the fun, if you take the three-day train ride London-Istanbul(from £273pp return with a “10 days in 22” InterRail pass, an overnight train Istanbul-Denizli (£9 oneway); see seat61.com for details, and a five-hour bus toAntalya or Fetiyhe(around £2.50 each way).

On foot

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Rhiann

onBatten

Lycian rock tombs in Myra,Turkey

photo:shutterstock/K.Ja

kubo

wska

Wilderness Safaris, Botswana

What? A safari company that sees itself primarily as a tool for conservation,with 6.5m acres in Southern Africa under protection.

Where? More than 50 lodges and camps in Botswana, Namibia, Malawi, SouthAfrica, Zambia, Zimbabwe and the Seychelles.

What’s their big idea? Protecting Africa’s wild resources bymaking tourismpay with fair returns for local communities. “The resources belong to theplanet but the local people are the custodians,” explains Chris Roche, anecologist with the company.

Track record: Set up in the early 1980s, by game rangers disillusioned by thelargely South-African owned safari industry in Botswana. Like-mindedrangers then expanded into neighbouring countries and bought concessionsaround the fringes of national parks as land use was revised in the 1990s.They introduced photographic safaris on land previously used for hunting orunder threat frommining companies. Partnerships with the Save the RhinoTrust among others have tripled the numbers of endangered black rhino inNamibia.

The long view: “We see our business as a carbon offset, though we don’t marketit as such,” says Roche. “Ourmodel is to protect the carbon sinks and not letthem be farmed or deforested.” Next up are projects to reintroducefreshwater terrapins and indigenous bird species to their island in theSeychelles and look at creating savannah corridors between parks in Angola,Zambia, Namibia and Zimbabwe to promote genetic diversity.

Awards and schemes: Their Damaraland Camp in Namibia was awarded theTourism for Tomorrow Conservation award in 2005. The camp is run inpartnership with the local Torra community and has significantly boostednumbers of desert-adapted elephant and black rhino. Rocktail Bay Lodge inKwaZulu-Natal won the Tourism for Tomorrow award in 1999.

More information: wilderness-safaris.com.


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TRAILBLAZERS

A lion and an approaching storm,Zambia

photo: Wilderness Safaris/Mike Myers

Whobest to volunteer for…

The best organisations offer genuine environmental and developmental benefits to theworld, rather than a glorified holiday in the sun. You can get a sense of an organisation’scommitment to the work it supports by checking whether it tries to match yourparticular skills to its programmes. Find out exactly what work youwill be expected todo;whether the organisationhas built up a good relationshipwith a localNGOor charityand if there is long-term commitment to their projects.

Make sure youaskwhere all themoneygoes –howmuchdoes the organisation spendon internal administration costs, staff wages, your food and accommodation andtraining, and howmuch actually goes on the projects? Be wary if you are quotedmorethan 15% for “agency admin”.

volunteering in the uk

BTCVThe charity runs more than 120 practical conservation holidays each year in the UK. Awide range of activities are on offer, from dry-stone walling in Lincolnshire to beachsweeping inDevon, or picking upwoodlandmanagement or hedge-laying skills. Pricesrange from£60 to£260 including accommodation and food. Volunteers have to find theirown way to a local pick-up point (01302 388 883, btcv.org).

TheHebrideanWhale andDolphin TrustThe trustwelcomesvolunteers tohelpwitheducationandconservationprojects year round.No background knowledge of cetaceans is required but youwill need to be enthusiasticand willing to learn about the marine mammals and their environment and lend yourskills to a busy charity.Workmay include gathering scientific data, creating educationalresources, giving talks, helping with beach cleans and running workshops(whaledolphintrust.co.uk).

National TrustThe trust runs around 450working holidays every year in England,Wales andNorthernIreland, ranging from two to sevendays and costing from£60 aweek including food andhostel-type accommodation.Cottage accommodation is also available on their “premium”holidays with groups of volunteers sharing domestic duties. Choose from habitatmaintenance in the BreconBeacons to volunteering at an event in the grounds of a statelyhome. Check out “working holidays” at nationaltrust.org.uk.

TheNational Trust for ScotlandThe Trust’s Thistle camps for volunteers were a sell-out in 2008, offered in locations asdiverse as Fair Isle in Shetland and Grey Mare’s Tail by Loch Skeen. Activities include


186

archaeology, crofting,wood-working and surveying, carryingout abat survey andhelpinga small island community make hay for the winter (thistlecamps.org.uk).

Trees for LifeHelpwith the award-winning charity’swork to restore theCaledonianForest to 600 squaremiles of the Highlands to the west of Inverness. Only 1% of the original forest remainsandovergrazingby sheep anddeer preventsmost natural regeneration. Todatemore than650,000 trees have beenplanted. Volunteer-workweeks are open to groups of 10 agedover18 and with reasonable levels of fitness. No conservation experience is necessary.Transport to and fromInverness, accommodationandvegetarianor vegan food isprovided.See treesforlife.org for details and booking, and tflvolunteer.org for independentreports from volunteers themselves.

TheWildlife TrustsWith 765,000 members, the Wildlife Trusts is the largest UK voluntary organisationdedicated to conserving the UK’s habitats and species and manages 2,200 naturereserves.More than 36,000 volunteers a yearwork in locations such as the Fens, the PeakDistrict and Pembrokeshire. Vacancies for 2009, for example include volunteer assistantwardens onSkomer Islandoff the Pembrokeshire coast. If youwant a littlemore comfort,consider taking a guided natural history holiday with Wildlife Travel (wildlife-travel.co.uk) – all profits aredonated to theWildlifeTrusts (01636677711,wildlifetrusts.org).

Fairtrade and ethical

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Puffin on Skomer Island,Pembrokeshire

photo:Th

eWild

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la rosavintagecaravans,northyorkshiremoorsrating:

LaRosaCampsite, nearWhitby,NorthYorkshire is a 20-acre sitein the North York Moors National Park with eight vintagecaravans, showers in a converted byre, a compost loo in ashepherd’s hut and a big top. Try the Victorian roll-top bath inthe orchard, with views down onto the valley.Adults cost £27 a night, including bedding, candles and firewood. Anevening meal costs £8. Tea parties held for £5. Small children stay freeof charge.larosa.co.uk, 07786 072866

natural retreats, aislabeck,yorkshire dalesrating:

A mile from the market town of Richmond, these green-buildsingle-storey houses are tucked beneath awooded hillside. Theupmarket cottages have sloping roofs plantedwith grasses andtheir south-facing floor-to-ceiling double-glazedwindows allowlight to flood in. All water comes from a natural spring, you aregiven an organic hamper includingwine on arrival and there isa wood burner to cosy up to after your day out. Further NaturalRetreats areplanned in theLakeDistrict, Snowdonia and theNorthYork Moors and the company plans to open at each of the UK’s14 national parks by 2011.In 2009 a cottage for six cost from £360 for two nights and from £770for a week in low season and from £1,210 in high season.naturalretreats.com, 0161 242 2970

mesmear, cornwallrating:

The stone-and-slate facade of this stylish 18th-century millconversionnear Polzeath on the northCornish coast is typical ofthe region’s farmbuildings, yet the interior is anotherworld. Theroomshave been designed to create a sense of “loft-style living”while the decor is eclectic eco-chic: rattan chairs, bean bags and

England

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wooden tables. Underfloor heating is provided by geothermalenergy, which saves the property 12 tonnes of carbon dioxideemissions a year, and awood-burning stovewill top up the heat.Anundergroundspringprovidesdrinkingwater and fills the solar-heated outdoor swimming pool.The Mill (sleeps 10) costs from £4,300 a week full board, includinghousekeeper/cook; the barn (sleeps four) costs from £900 self-catering.mesmear.co.uk, 01208 869731

eco-cabin, shropshirerating:

This single-storeywooden lodge in theShropshireHillsmay looklike it has been plucked from Scandinavia but it is the vision ofthe local owner. The cabin is built out ofwood,wool, reeds, limeand clay, and most of the furnishings are from a communityrecycling scheme or have been plucked from a local junk shop.The lodge has solar power and a wood-pellet stove to heat thesnug living room. You can also order a delivery of local organicfood and rented bikes can be delivered to the cabin byWheelywonderfulcycling.co.uk.From£420aweekor£95anight (minimumtwonights) for fourpeople.Take the train toCravenArms fromwhereyoucanarrange tobe collectedby the owner.ecocabin.co.uk, 01547 530183

strattons hotel, norfolkrating:

This family-runcountryhousenear themarket townofSwaffhamin the Brecks sets the standard for eco-friendly boutique hotels.The owners have turned a grade II-listed building into a swirl ofcolour. Choose between 10 themed rooms, including the“theatrical red room” with a four-poster bed and fireplace, andthe ‘boudoir’ with wallpaper splashed with renaissance artprint. The food in the restaurant is fromNorfolk andall thehotel’swaste is recycled. You will receive a 10 per cent discount if youarrive by public transport.Take the train to King’s Lynn then hop on the local X-1 bus fromPeterboroughwhich stops right outside thedoor.DoubleRoomscost from£150; suites from £200.strattonshotel.com, 01760 723845


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Italy

locanda della valle nuova,near urbinorating:

There are plenty of rural places to stay in Italy that offer local,organic produce, but La Locanda near the hilltop town ofUrbino in LeMarche goes the extramile to do its bit for energyconservation. Surrounded by ancient, protected oaks, the 1920sfarmhousehasbeenconverted intoawell-insulatedmodern, smartcountry house with five doubles and one twin room as well as aself-catering apartment for two. There’s purified water, solarheating and awood-fired stove fuelled by coppicing from the 185acre farm woods where you can gather truffles in autumn.There’s a riding school next door, a swimming pool and a gentleafternoon circular walk around the farm that will help work upan appetite.Bed and buffet breakfast is!54 per person. Horseriding is!20 per hour.vallenuova.it, +39 0722 330303

barbialla nuova , tuscanyrating:

A converted 19th century villa and two farmhouses withapartments on a 500 hectare organic farm, 30 minutes fromFlorence andSiena. The buildingswere renovatedusing originallocal materials. There’s no air-conditioning and you can gosearching forwhite truffles in thewoods. Solar panels powerheatthewater and the owners hope to become self-sufficient thanksto a newphotovoltaic plant. There are seven apartments and onevilla to rent, all self-catering, though you’ll be tempted to raidthe garden for herbs, fruit and vegetables.The Le Trosce villa sleeps 8-10 and costs from !1,250 for a week. Theapartments sleep 2-6 and cost from!440 a week.barbiallanuova.it, +39 0571 677004

I ta ly

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tenuta le sorgive, mantuarating:

Apeaceful, low-impact organic farm, 10km fromLakeGarda inSolferino. The heating is provided by a vegetable biomasssystem and you can buy the farm’s organic produce. All wastewater is filtered and re-used. There are eight en-suite rooms andtwo apartments sleeping four. Owners the Serenelli family havebeen farmingsince the 12thcenturyandyoucansample their jams,wine, honey and charcuterie in the dining room.The apartments cost between!470-810 per week Rooms are!70-!90per weeklesorgive.it, [email protected], +39 0376 854252

belvedere b&b, chambons,piedmontrating:

The English owners of Belvedere B&Bwill pick youup at Turin’sPortaSusa train stationand takeyou to their restored 16th-centuryAlpine “casa” inChambons in the heart of Val Chisone. There arethree double rooms, basic but each has a private bathroom andtwohavemountain views. It’s in the Piedmont region – so expectorganic “slow food” – andmany of the facilities are eco-friendly,suchas awood-firedheater.Across-country ski circuit starts fromright outside the front door and there’s snow-shoeing nearby inthe Troncea or Orsiera natural parks.A room costs!60 a night and a three-night snow shoeing package costs!290 half board.belvederebedandbreakfast.com, +39 0121 884701


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LATINAMERICA Argentina

peumahue, barilocherating:

Gallop through forest then sit backwith a cocktail as youwatchthe sun setting over LakeGutiérrez and the shadows creepup themountain.Walls are hewn fromhuge tree trunks, tiles inspiredby cave paintings, rugs hand-woven and glass ceilings open tothe peak of Cerro Catedral. Indigenous species are beingreintroduced, produce is organic from the kitchen garden orlocally sourced, alternative energies are on their way.Full-board for 1, 3 or 7 days. $375-$642. Singles $284-$375. Includesactivities. B&B only $103-$133pp.peuma-hue.com, +54 9 2944 501030/504856

Bolivia

chalalán ecolodge,madidi national parkrating:

Managedentirelyby the indigenousQuechua-Tacana community,Chalalán is buried in the vast swathe of thewildlife-richMadidinational park. Knowledgeable guides and themed nature trailsencourage you to learn about wildlife behaviour and themedicinal qualities of theplants. The low-impact,woodandpalmcabins are simple andrustic, butperfectly comfortable.Washawaythe day’s expedition, then soakup the sunset over LakeChalalánfrom a hammock outside your cabin.Full-board (4-days, 3 nights) $325pp Twin/triple $295pp. Singles$345. Includes transfers & activities.chalalan.com, +591 3 892 2419

Chile

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Brazil

pousada vida sol emar,santa caterinarating:

Surfers create abuzz atweekends in season.OtherwiseRoseBeachis awild, natural place – a couple of beach shackbars ona crescentof soft sands,with dunes behind. Below thehotel are seven rusticvillas – river stones,Brazilianwoods, colour-washed tables,naturallinen – rentedwhole or in part. Somehave their ownpool, othersa close-up view of the sea. Yesterday’s whale hunters are today’sguides, and the whale-watching tours are the best inthe area.$72-$180. Villas $140-$180 for two.vidasolemar.com.br, +55 48 3355 6111

Chile

patagonia ecocamprating:

One of theworld’s epic locations. Condors soar over theAndeanmountainswhileherdsofguanaco (wild relativeof the llama) roamthe foothills. Thebrightlypainted tents are cosy inside, connectedbywooden boardwalks to the friendly dining areawhere a hugepicture window opens out to themountains beyond.Full-board from $823pp for 4 days. Includes activities & transfers.ecocamp.travel, +56 2 232 9878

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