JOHN SMEDLEY POP UP STORE CONCEPT CREATIVE EDGE Unit: Creative Retail Spaces Amrit Kaur: Visual Merchandiser Pooja Das: Designer Jiangrui Liu (Sabrina): Research Analyst Tanchapat Benjasiriwan (Tammie): Trend Analyst ZHENGYING Hu (Victoria): Social Media PR 1
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Jiangrui Liu (Sabrina): Research Analyst Tanchapat Benjasiriwan (Tammie): Trend Analyst
ZHENGYING Hu (Victoria): Social Media PR 1
AGENDATo design a new pop-up retail experience for John Smedley, building on the brand's strength in the premium / affordable luxury sector and effectively deliver the essence of the brand in a temporary store format.
BRIEF RECAP• To create a store concept that will excite style conscious shoppers. • Challenge perception of the brand • Consider traditional pop-up store with space upto 20-25 sq meter with
small adjacent stock room • Focus on classics and explore the realms of co-creation • Include Omni channel shopping/technology. • Window: deliver key message , be bold and imaginative. • Select appropriate material, figure, props, lighting, signage,etc for store
design. • Address stock density and stock replenishment. • Store design and Layout • Payment solution to free up space
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METHODOLOGY
PRIMARY
SECONDARY
• Factory Visit • Non-participant store observation
• Company research (John Smedley brand bible, website) • Pop Up Store Research (Niehm et al., 2006; Holmgren and Olofsson, 2015 ) • Trends Analysis (WGSN, Retail design blog, Dezeen, etc.) • Visual Merchandising and Display- (Pegler, 2012) • Store Atmospheric : (Turley & Milliman, 2000) • Sensory Marketing: (Hulten, Broweus, and Van Dijk, 2009)
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John Smedley OverviewJOHN SMEDLEY OVERVIEW
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COMPANY BACKGROUND• John Smedley is a heritage British premium
luxury knitwear brand • Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The Queen as
‘Manufacturer of Fine Knitwear’ since January 2013 (John Smedley, 2016).
• Family run business • established in 1784 • known for their finest quality garments, iconic
pieces and beautifully crafted products with effortless style, unique and contemporary colours and palettes (John Smedley, 2016).
• The evolution of the brand has been mapped in the timeline.
USP:Royal Warrant and 100% made in Britain
Product Portfolio:The product portfolio includes knitted men’s wear and women’s wear which use high quality Merino Wool, Cotton, Cashmere Blends,Cashmere and Silk, Silk Blends, Fine Knit, Medium Knit and Heavy Knit fabrics (John Smedley, 2016).
(Source: John Smedley, 2016) 5
CORE VALUESHeritage Quality
Craftsmanship
Community
Colour
Core Values John Smedley’s Core values are based on 5 pillars (John Smedley, 2016):
1. British heritage: Rich 230 years of heritage 2. Quality: In house fibre processing. 3. Craftsmanship: Cutting edge Japanese technology and hand finished garments. 4. Colour: Wide range of colour pallet 5. Community: trusted worldwide partners and loyal customers.
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Brand position: Premium brand, affordable luxury
Target customers: Age 30-65
Competitors: Lifestyle brands with knitwear lines: Polo Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, Aquascutum, Z Zegna, Pringle of Scotland, Hackett (based on store observation of Selfridges, John Lewis, Harrods and Harvey Nichols)
BRAND POSITIONING
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JS CUSTOMER PROFILE
• Age : 40 • Job: High Profile Jobs • Car: Ford • Magazine: Business,
Fashion, Sports, Health.
• Music: Blues, good old rock and roll, Classic
• Cuisine: French, Italian, Japanese, Chinese.
• Night Life: Bar, musical, social events.
• Hobbies: Reading, Travelling, Gym
Current Customer • Name Lucy • Age 28 • Status In relationship • Location UK, London • Job Sales Negotiator • Car Nissan Note • Magazine Vogue,
Elle, Bazaar, The lady • Music Pop music,
Jazz, Classical music • Restaurant French,
Japanese, Italian, Chinese restaurant
• Cafe Costa, Nero, Starbucks
• Nightlife Social event, bar, club
• Hobbies Reading, yoga, swimming, shopping, going out with friends
Female Younger Customers(brand
would like to attract)
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STORE ENVIRONMENTAL ANALYSIS
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Interview with store manager: Mirozi Lkdy
Target Customers:
-All age groups -Tourists from Middle East and Asia
Highest selling products:
- Classics - Belvoir, Buttercup, Adrian, ISIS
Sale Contribution - 70% Men - 30% Women
Peak Sales:
- Post Christmas Slow sale (February)
Busiest days: Saturday and Sunday
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Human Variables
Employee Characteristics: very friendly and helpful. Greeted with
smile and thanked before leaving the store.
Uniform: Semi Formal and smart dressing in dark blue colour.
Crowding & Privacy: Not crowded only 3-4 employees present. 1
manager, 1 Sales executive and 1 person at till
External Cues
Architecture: Fusion of medieval and Contemporary
architecture.Surrounding Stores: Luxury brand
Flagship stores in Brook Street (Joseph, Issey Miyake, French Sole,
etc. )and Custom made high end boutiques in Jermyn
Street( Hilditch & Key, Tailor of Old bond street, Longmire, etc.)
Point of purchase &
decoration displays
Signs: No signsCards: Old Christmas gift cardsWall Decorations: none, glass
wallPrice Displays: yes, digital
price display machine at tills
Store Atmospheric Analysis
John SmedleyTurley & Milliman (2000)
Interior Cues
Flooring: Wood, Leather, CarpetLighting: calm yellow light, focus lights on wall with photo frames. Back light graphic wall in front of
entrance.Colour: neutral colors such as
grey, white, brown and blue.Sound: Classical British
music in the Layout & Design Cues
Space: Jermyn St. store is spacious and tidy whereas Brook St store is
cluttered and not kept properly.Layout: Jermyn St. store has a free flow layout whereas Brook St. Store has a Boutique Layout
( Bailey & Baker, 2014).Product Display: Mix of Vertical and Horizontal
merchandising. Products displayed in Brook Street is very shabby, open stock room, visible
carton.Traffic Flow: Low,5 step count in 10 mins.
racks & Cases: Mid floor fixtures and hanger racks for display.
Current Store Analysis
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In order to perform sensory audit, five human senses , namely, sight, sound, scent, taste and touch that provide the multi-sensory brand experience are observed from John Smedley and its competitors’ store (Hultén, Broweus, and Van Dijk, 2009).
SENSORY AUDIT
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From sensory audit comparison matrix, John Smedley should improve and implement the following in the pop-up store in order to increase customer equity:
• Improve store design to increase women sale contribution (highlight on women and new collection)
• Being more organised: stocks must not be visible for the customers.
• Play energetic or alternative music to attract young consumers
• contemporary store design • material used wood, leather, wool,
marble table tops, stone finish fittings. • neutral colors such as grey, white,
brown and blue. • calm yellow light, focus lights on wall
with photo frames. Back light graphic wall in front of entrance.
• Made in Britain, simple and elegant. • graphical representation of store plan of
JS factory on the wall opposite to the entrance.
• Contemporary and shuttle look.
• Eye catchy graphic walls and photo frames.
• A sense of British Culture. • Contrast colors and brightly
light up store gave a feel good factor.
Sound
• Classical music in the background, not energetic.
• Campaign: Sound of factory and nature.
• Soothing but dull, not in sink with store design
• nostalgic feeling.
Smell • No scent used. • unpleasant smell of paint. • very strong smell
Taste • No taste • No taste
Touch
• Smooth wooden floor, cubical forms in slate look, wooden mannequins, marble finish table surface, vertically textured slate walls.
• Very soft and high quality products • furnitures do not look steady as the legs
are pointed and the table top has the look of heavy marble slab. Balance is not maintained.
• Fixed i-pad to explore the whole range.
• variety of textures, materials, forms and shapes made us want to touch the objects. (eg: leather hangers, slate finished props, wooden mannequins, high quality merchandise on display.)
• A warm, cozy and comfortable sensation.
• wanted to touch the products
• Touch technology in form of i-pads .
JOHN SMEDLEY SENSORY AUDIT
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COMPETITOR SENSORY AUDIT
• Modern and minimalistic interior
• Calm music, ad-campaign used sound of nature
• use of natural light in store.
• open window display • use of diamond pattern
inspired from Scotland.
• Dark, classic interior • mixed material used in
different sections of the store.
• spotlights to highlight products.
• youthful energetic environment.
• Alternative, Indie-rock music attracts younger customer.
• Mixed Rich Material • Vintage, Classic theme • Rich Atmosphere • Classic instrumental ad
campaign. • fresh floral jasmine like smell. • Vintage, Old looking props
like grand fathers watch and wooden walls.
• Music: Classic Rock - Energetic, Nostalgic.
• Artistic theme • Upbeat music,
funky, Classic oldies
• Fun, happy and energetic mood
• abstract props such as crumpled metal vase.
• modern, classic and casual theme.
• use of fabric - tweed pattern for capet.
• Electronic, house and Alternative music.
• Young and energetic.
Pringle
ZZegna
Ralph Lauren14
TREND ANALYSIS
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• Niehm et al. (2006) applied Fishbein and Ajzen’s (1975) Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA) (Figure 1) to study the behavioral intentions towards pop-up store.
• The results showed that product uniqueness of pop-up retail have positive affect toward the engagement in the pop-up experience.
• Therefore, rather than focusing on a commercial aspect of pop-up store, John Smedley should focus on providing exclusive and unique shopping experience in order to create long-term brand loyalty among the customers.
POP UP STORE FRAME-WORK
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POP UP STORE AUDIT
• Garments hang from a handmade oak structure.
• Inspired by the works of American artist Oscar Tuazon
• Open-plan gallery-like interior. • Artist Collaboration: Artworks by
American artists Graham Collins and Lucien Smith
• Store features a bespoke sound installation with daily playlists.
• Interior uses using industrial materials and textured surfaces.
Hostem east London pop up store interior, February 2016
COS pop-up shop in LA, November 2015
• Concept based on Autumn Winter collection.
• Used the pink and red tones from the fashion collection to inform their colour palette.
• Mirrored wall divides the room and creates the illusion of infinite space.
• COS regularly collaborates with architects and designers to create presentation spaces
• Example: Japanese studio Nendo, which created an installation based on the brand's signature white shirt in Milan last year.
• Temporary walls were installed. • Cut out shapes from walls and
marketing strategy which gives high benefit. ● Launch event
Business of Fashion, 2016 NIKE X Abe’s Sacai
Designer, Karen Walker Says Collaboration is the Key to Growth (Business of Fashion,
2012)
DESIGNER COLLABORATION TRENDS
RETAIL TRENDS
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JOHN SMEDLEY X HOLLY FULTON COLLABORATION
● Promote new collaboration of Holly Fulton X John Smedley AW 16 with will be included in the product offering.
Note: Holly Fulton only sell via e-commerce platforms in the UK; therefore, Jonh Smedley can be the first to launch the collection offline in the UK
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Covent Garden is a high tourist density area which receives more than 44 million visitors per year (Londontopia, 2013). The area also has convenient access to tube station with less than 3 minutes walk.
Next to Covent Garden Piazza, King street presents a possible location for the pop-up store with stores such as Jo Maloane, Sandro and Hackett, John Smedley’s competitor.
Covent Garden PiazzaLOCATION
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RESEARCH FINDINGSFrom background research, store environment analysis and trend analysis, John Smedley should include the following in the new pop-up store concept:
• Translation of Core Values in store and window design • Contemporary store atmospherics to attract young customers. • Unique and creative design of pop up space to challenge
John Medley’s brand image • Translation of made in Britain story - Brand awareness among
tourists. • Focus on showcasing new collection(Collaboration pieces)-
Classics are already selling well. • Store design to be minimalistic and well organised. • A scent of fresh floral smell could be considered to enhance
the senses . • Technology and Signage to be kept in mind at Point of sale. • Attracting The Right Consumers to the Store • Find high density tourist Location- Covent Garden • Marketing through Social Media - Invite influential bloggers to
host the pop-up store launch event where they can invite their followers for free.
• Engage in guerilla marketing • Focus on offering exclusive and unique shopping experience
to the customers rather than financial benefits.
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Pop up ProposalPOP UP PROPOSAL
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• Translating brand essence in unique and creative way • The fashion gallery reflects minimalism element • Feels like an art gallery/exhibition • depicts John Smedley’s history • Creates customer experience- wow factor • Attracts customers sight though point of focus: Inspiring art installation • Holly Fulton x John Smedley Collection pieces displayed as art pieces.
Stained Fibre GlassMDF Board Used for False Ceiling and walls
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LIGHTING
Zumthor's Bregenz Museum : Patterning
Lighting could affect visual acuity of objects in display and arousal experienced by shopper (Areni and Kim 1993);
Soft lighting supports high image(Baker,1992) Blue store soft lights produces high price fairness perceptions.Light colour and colour rendering are decisive in determining the perceived quality of products and materials.Fabrics with blue and green hues are best presented in a cool light colour.
For general lighting LED lights are used because of several benefits such as: • Extreme low power consumption • Extremely long life (50,000 to 100,000 hours) • Durable and insensitive to vibrations. • Light weight and compact • Recyclable • Easy to remove • Recyclable • Environmental friendly • It can be also used for point of purchase
displays and signage (Pegler, 2012)
.
Store ceiling: general LED tubes and movable focus lights
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Abstract Mannequin:
The abstract mannequin will be utilised in the pop up store. The minimalist design of the mannequin can represent the minimalist concept of the pop up, and contemporary look of the abstract mannequin also corresponds the contemporary feeling the brand wants (Spark, 2015).
The abstract mannequin used for the window display has been covered with Jacquard prints and styled with John Smedleys’ accessories
used in window display
concept
MANNEQUINS
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Functional Props: • Hangers
Decorative Props: • Frames • DIY Plants • information props printed on foam board • centre prop- metal wire tree
Decorative Prop: Metal Wire tree used as a
centre art installation to hang collaborative pieces of John Smedley and Holly Fulton A/
W 2016 Collection
Functional Props
Decorative Props
Props
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Fixtures
modular drawers- hidden stock
Floor Fixture: Modular drawers used at the back of the display window to keep stock.
Modular units are flexible props used to display product which are suitable for pop-up store due to its mobility and cost efficiency.
Characteristics of modular units: •Look like an immobile concrete forms •Made of cement board and accordion-like folds •Geometric podium for product display •Easy to move •Low cost
Hooks in the Trial Room
Frame Less Wall Mirror- Minimalistic look.
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FITTING ROOM• Fitting room behind till wall
• sitting stool, mirror and hooks to hang garment available
• Pictogram used as signage to depict fitting room.
• Cotton Curtains with luxurious touch.
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vinyl pictogram on acrylic glass
Oasis
Pringle of Scotland
• The cash point will be compact in size to provide more space in the store area.
• Cash desk made of modular unit with hidden shelves to store shopping bag and packaging will be presented.
• Signage made out of Acrylic glass will be attached to the cash desk with the brand logo and royal warrant to highlight on the brand unique selling point.
CASH POINT
Modular unit
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Vinyl print on acrylic glass
concrete board
SIGNAGE- MINIMAL & CLEARUse of pictogram and clear fonts for signage.Pictograms are signs to communicate with customers using symbol who speak different language.(Targeting tourists) Helvetica typeface to be used in alignment with John Smedley’s logo and present font
Click & Collect
Fitting Room
Audio Guide PICTOGRAMS
FONTS IN VINYLE
Metal Letters in silver
Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The Queen
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• Helvetica is favoured typefaces in both streetwear and high fashion logos(fontsinuse.com).
• Clean, readable and Versatile. • Brands using Helvetica typeface: YSL,
CHANEL, COMME des GARCONS
“ If you want your fashion label to have longevity and versatility, give it some
• Can influence product evaluation and help to create a overall product perception and promise. create a sense of class and high-end,mixing with contemporary feeling.
• Based on the above theory The fashion gallery exhibition should have special packaging to increase word of mouth, marketing the collaboration, brand recall overtime the customer uses the bag.
• Solution: Minimal, canvas, cost effective tote bag
and collaboration between John Smedley and Holly Fulton
• Use of Brocade and Jacquard fabric to craft leaves
• Knitted cover used in the props • An art installation telling the story of
the collaboration.
• Creative window Display • Use of Mannequin to display
collaborative piece • Tined glassed inspired from stained
glass windows used in churches in medieval times depicting history -John Smedley
• MDF frame covered with knitted fabric- John Smedleys’ material
• Contemporary window display • painted mannequins are seldom used
by famous brands and retailers such as Selfridges.
• Creates point of focus through contrast.
• John Smedleys’ material and Holly Fulton’s prints have been highlighted.
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PROPOSED WINDOW CONCEPT
artificial fabric leaves
Knitted pot covers
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Focus lights from top
STORE LAYOUTFree flow layout has been used as it works best for stores with small area and provides customer ease to browse the store where products are limited (Dunne and Lusch, 2014).
Focal points have been circled in red. The focal points are:
1. Till area 2. Central fixture with
mannequin emphasising w/w collection
3. Photo booth/ event space/ seating area
Fitting room
Blogger Event
Installation
I-PAD
, AU
DIO
DEV
ISE
Till
Open Back Window DisplayEntrance
Mirror
Seating area after the blogger’s launch event
GLA
SS S
LABS
FO
R M
ERC
HAN
DIS
E D
ISPL
AY
Modular Hidden Drawers
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modular drawer to keep stock hidden
PHOTO WALL
Blogger- Follower
invitations for Launch
Event
Tree installation, Holly Fulton Collection
suspended.
Store Design
v
Fitting Room
Wall rest Mirror
v
Concrete Board
Modular till unit
Side Wall with John Smedley’s iconic
piece display
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STOCK DENSITYHOLLY FULTON STOCK DENSITY PLAN
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Therefore, all five human senses will be incorporated in the pop-up store in order to offer maximum experiences to the customers.
Sight:
• Art Installation
• Creative way to product display products and also attracting new customers into the store.
Scent:
• Fresh floral
• Mimicking natural surrounding of John Smedley’s Derbyshire factory.
Sound:
• Can increase their purchase intentions (Kotler, 1973) and change consumer's perception about the store (North & Hargreaves, 1998) .
• Good use of sound in the online John Smedley’s “Behind the brand” Ad Campaign. (factory machines, birds and nature sound incorporate into music).
• This type of music can be used in store , promoting the brand heritage and art exhibition atmosphere.
Touch:
• I pad will be available in store,
• Allowing customers to explore full range of products online with touch screen technology.
Taste:
• Cookies with John Smedley logo
Jacob Ladder: Derbyshire County flower
Sensory Experience
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Audio Guide:• A recorded spoken commentary to the visitors, • A handheld device (Bartneck, 2007) • Including several different languages • Explaining the history, craftsmanship and
community of the brand and the material, design and colors of the collections
• Explaining the theme of the pop up, Fashion Gallery.
Click and Collect:• Less of stocking space in the pop up store • With click and collect, the store can arrange their
stockroom based on consumers’ needs. iPads at Retail (WGSN, 2011):• Two iPads in store, customers can browse all the
products and choose whatever they want.
Technology
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To promote a seamless payment in the customer journey, the following will be adopted in John Smedley pop-up store in order to free up space and provide customer convenience: •Tablet-based mobile point of sales systems: With the popularity of digital wallet (Mintel, 2016), John Smedley can also employ contactless mPOS which consumers can use mobile or contactless card to purchase. •mPOS comes together with RFID systems: Include tags embedded to the products to guarantee that the products are available for customers in the specific location without any errors (Entrepreneur , 2016). Thus, the systems will provide a superior supply chain management to the retailer and offer seamless payment method to the clients.
PAYMENT SOLUTION
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• Invited famous bloggers such as 5 inch and up, Style Bubble, Olivija style etc. to the pop up launch event in Covent Garden
• Attracted social media attention, word of mouth , social media marketing
• Photo wall
John Smedley’s Launching Event
Photo wall
Launch Event
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SUMMARY• Translate brand heritage and Luxury DNA in an artistic way
in a fashion gallery• Showcase collaboration pieces to attract new customers.• Focus on women’s wear collection targeting young
women.• Include 5 senses within the store environment to engage
customers.• Invite famous bloggers for launch event to increase
popularity about the pop up store• Include technology to facilitate easy shopping.• Promote event though incorporating special packaging.
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Pop up Proposal
Thank You!
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Hackett (no date) Hackett London. Available at: https://www.hackett.com/gb/ (Accessed: 14 April 2016)
References
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Appendices Interview Transcript:
Interview with store manager Mirozi Lkdy Email: [email protected] Q1. How long have you been here and what is your role in the store? Ans: I have been here for 3 years now and I am the store manager here. I keep a track of sales, educate store assistants about the brands and products, report daily sales to the head office , attend to clients and help them with any query, provide feed back to the head office. Also, I will be moving to another store next month which will open in Piccadilly Circus. Q2. Who are John Smedely’s target customers? Ans: Our target customers are not specific. customers from all age group buy from us. Many tourist from Asia and Middle East buy from us. Q3. At the moment there are not much customers visiting the store so when is the peak season or time when customers visit John Smedley? Ans: February generally is a slow sale month as customers have recently spent in Christmas and new years. Also, the holiday season is over so not much tourist visit in February. But however Saturday and Sundays are the most busiest day for us.
Q4. What is the sale contribution of menswear and women’s wear ? Answer: 70% Men’s and 30% women’s. Q5. Which is the highest selling product? Answer: The highest selling products are our classics. Belvoir, Buttercup, Adrian, ISIS, etc.