GL11 sample

"WH

EN ON

E REALISES THAT LIFE IS W

ORTHLESS H

E EITHER COM

MITS SUICIDE OR TRAVELS.” EDW

ARD DAHLBERG |AUSTRALIA

|CANADA|CROATIA

|EGYPT|INDONESIA

|JAPAN|OM

AN|PERU

|TAHITI |THAILAND|TIBET

11

+LAIDBACK DARWINECCENTRIC EATING IN JAPANTHE GRATEFUL DEAD DO EGYPTPHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FROM HIGH TO LOW

WORLDWIDE 2006/7ISSUE #11 $6.95

TRAVEL CULTURE>GST INCLUDED

TAKE A WALK ONTHE WEIRD SIDE

SPRING FEVER CARNIVAL

BLACK RUN RIOT

BUKIT BLISS

HANGING OUT

SECRET TREASURE

SHIPS AHOY

WIN!A RETURN TRIPTO THAILAND!SEE INSIDE FOR DETAILS

WIN!7NIGHTS ACCOMMODATIONONTHE BUKIT PENINSULA INBALI

www.getlostmag.com

THEPESCADORES

SEE INSIDE FOR DETAILS

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#18 get lost! ISSUE #11 get in the know! Red Bull was created by Dietrich Mateschitz after he discovered a Thai energy drink that cured his jetlag.

Oliver Benjamin schedules 24 hours of outrightweirdness in Southeast Asia’s strangest travel hub.

THERE IS A LOT OF HUBBUB HAPPENING INSoutheast Asia. Kuala Lumpur, Singaporeand Bangkok are all billing themselves

as the “travel hub” for the continent: competingnot only for tourism, but for attention from transitpassengers en route to other destinations in theregion. While most find themselves in thoseairports for a few hours only, some have anopportunity to venture out into the city to “go native”, if only for a day or less. While KualaLumpur and Singapore may provide somemodern Asiatic charms, those with a taste forthe exotic would do well to make Bangkok theirhub of choice. Forget well-known postcard pitstops like its grand palace and floating market.The city offers the short-term but intrepidtourist plenty of unadulterated weirdness.

text: oliver benjamin

images: oliver benjamin

BANGKOKBIZA RE

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get in the know! Thai tuk-tuks are named after the sound of their engine. ISSUE #10 get lost! #19

in Bangkok. But if you also want to have a fortuitousday, you should visit some of the city’s moreinteresting shrines. Aside from the giant ones in front of shopping centres, where young women pray for cell phones and young men pray for youngwomen, one simply must visit the Penis Shrine onthe grounds of the Raffles Hotel. It hosts an amazingcollection of lingams in all shapes and sizes, andclearly size does matter here – some are as big as a person. The steady stream of families praying forfertility annoyed Hilton, the hotel’s previous owner,so much that he demanded its removal. Instead, thelandowner cancelled the hotel’s lease. He knew that,above all, one must not piss off the god of the penis.

8:00amGet Suited, Mate –Tailors Throughout the City

In as little as eight hours, Bangkok’s manic tailorscan whip you up an outfit every bit as crazy asyou are. Bring a photo from a magazine and getthat leopard-skin kimono you always wanted. Or a powder blue tuxedo. Or a crotchless unitard.For a pittance, they’ll set you up with anythingyou can imagine and usually without laughingdirectly in your face.

9:00amGet Sent Up The River – Chao Phraya River Boat To Bangkwang Prison

You could read The Damage Done to getan idea of what goes on in a Thai prison. Betteryet, you could actually see for yourself, whilesimultaneously brightening the day of some poorforeigner rotting away inside. Call up your embassyto get the name of an inmate and prepare yourselffor some gruesome stories. Some prisoners hardlyget any visitors and will be immensely gratefulfor your visit – especially if you buy them somegoodies from the prison gift shop. Be sure to bringyour passport and to dress conservatively – Thaipolice are no easygoing bunch of baton-swingingbureaucrats. The return trip up the Chao PhrayaRiver will give you plenty of time to ruminate onhow lucky you are to be on the outside.

11:00am Macabre Museums– The Siriraj Medical Museum & TheCorrections Museum

The Siriraj Medical Museum preserves forposterity that which everyone else has chosen to pretend never existed. The centrepiece of themuseum is a room filled with jars of birth-defectedbabies, complete with plenty of Siamese twins thathave their little intestines hanging out. A famouscannibal’s corpse, shelves of deformed body partsand an incredibly lifelike diorama of surgeons

...an amazing collection of lingams in all shapes and sizes, and clearly size does matter here – some are as big as a person.

’’’’

5:30amTastes Like Victory–Lumpini Park

Bangkok rises with the sun, especially those witha yearning for physical fitness. In Lumpini Park, thecity’s vast “green lung”, you can watch people gettingthe blood pumping. After performing tai chi, liftingweights at Lumpini’s own goofy “muscle beach” andbeating the crap out of each other in Thai boxingtraining, the truly hardy line up for a glass of freshly-squeezed snake blood. It’s said to be uncommonlyinvigorating, though that might be because it’snormally mixed with Red Bull.

7:00amWe All Shrine On–Penis Shrine

Most Thais are extremely spiritual – they closetheir eyes and pray at each shrine they pass. Thiscustom may explain the number of traffic accidents

thailand

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#32 get lost! ISSUE #11 get in the know! Musician Jack Johnson, a former competitive surfer, made an acclaimed surf film titled Thicker Than Water prior to releasing his debut CD.

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get in the know! While it featured in surf films from as early as 1977, the location of Padang Padang was not disclosed in the surf media until 1980. ISSUE #11 get lost! #33

indonesia

IN THE EARLY 70S, AUSTRALIAN SURFER ANDphotographer Albert Falzon made his firstfeature film Morning of the Earth (1972).

It is a blissful surf flick that is now regarded as a classic of the genre. Unlike the Americanfilms that inspired it, Morning of the Earth hadno plot, no narration and no titles identifyingthe surfers or the featured locations. It did,however, have some of the most memorablesurfing footage captured on celluloid. Onesequence showed two surfers paddling intolong, peeling walls at a mysterious Indonesiansurf break. The location was Uluwatu on Bali’sBukit Peninsula. When thousands of wide-eyed,Australian surfers filed out of surf clubs andschool halls after screenings of Falzon’s film,the destiny of Uluwatu changed forever.

The Bukit Peninsula stretches south of Bali’scapital Denpasar in the shape of an upturnedmushroom. With rain scarce in the dry season,its arid landscape contrasts with the mainland’slush rice paddies. At its southwest tip is Uluwatu,named after the temple Pura Luhur Uluwatu or ‘Temple Above the Final Stone’. It is perched above a coral reef surf break that has captured the imagination of surfers all over the world since Falzon put the location on their collectivewish list.

Falzon had been staying at Kuta in 1971 withAustralian schoolboy surfer Steve Cooney andCalifornian Rusty Miller when he ventured south to the Bukit Peninsula in search of waves. Hereturned to Uluwatu with Cooney, Miller and his camera the following day and confirmed his discovery. “When we walked to the edge of the cliff there were lines all the way to thehorizon...it was about ten feet.” Steve Cooney,only 14 years of age at the time, paddled into surf mythology by taking the first wave. Falzon has described the group surfing and filming

Dreamland Beach, a pristine stretch of white sand that is a gem of the Bukit region.

’’

’’

The Bukit Peninsula came tointernational attention courtesyof a schoolboy surfer, a buddingfilmmaker and a mysterioussurf break.

text: damien mcaloon

images: oliver needham

all day, “much to the amazement and amusementof the locals, who had never seen surfing before”,and then spending the night “against the cliff onthe small beach next to the cave”.

The cliff at Uluwatu has hosted many surfers inthe following years. The wave regularly featuresin lists of the world’s finest and has prompted a self-sufficient surf ghetto. For a handful ofdollars a day, travelling surf junkies can eat andsleep in one of the many bungalows that overlookthe ocean swells. You can surmise the visitors’priorities by comparing some of the morerudimentary accommodation with the surf shops,which are tiled, brightly lit, immaculately cleanand full of gleaming new surfwear and boards.

Such is the reputation of Uluwatu that there are often up to one hundred people in the waterjostling for waves. Fortunately however, it is notthe only drawcard for surfers on the west of

the Bukit Peninsula. The stretch of coast backtowards Jimbaran Bay is equally blessed with the combination of dependable southeast tradewinds and coral reefs that produce world-qualitywaves. A couple of kilometres north is PadangPadang. Reached by descending a crevice in thecliff, it has a small beach and a testing reef breakthat offers left-breaking tubes. Few visitors woulddispute the verdict of surf photographer AaronChang, who has described it as a “rare, treasuredand magical spot”.

Paddle further up the peninsula and you reach‘Impossibles’, another challenging left-hand breakrenowned for the speed of the waves crashingalong the reef. Immediately north of Impossiblesis Bingin Beach. The wave at Bingin is famed for its barrelling shape that seemingly permitssurfers to get tubed at will. When the tide retreats, it breaks on an increasingly shallow

FOUND


#34 get lost! ISSUE #11 get in the know! The Hollywood film Point Break features Keanu Reeves as an FBI agent who pursues a surf-obsessed bank robber to Victoria’s Bells Beach.

large surf and a 30-year-old Melbourne surferdisappeared while out at Bingin Beach. His bodywas recovered some days later, over a hundredkilometres further north.

For the less adventurous, being a surfer is not a prerequisite to enjoying a stint on the BukitPeninsula. Its relative solitude has made it anincreasingly popular destination for yoga studiosand a place to enjoy stunning views from the cliffabove Bingin. As the sun disappears, the horizonbecomes littered with lights from fishing vessels as they stream out of Jimbaran Bay in search of a catch. During daylight hours, it is mesmerising to watch Indian Ocean swells charging in andthen reeling off for hundreds of metres as they hit the reef at Impossibles.

There is also Dreamland Beach, a pristinestretch of white sand that is a gem of the Bukitregion. From Bingin, Dreamland can be reached at low tide by scrambling beneath the cliff. The alternative at high tide is a scenic walkaround the grassed cliff top past tethered cows. Its sandy bottom and comparatively gentle waves make Dreamland a popular destination for beginner surfers. Bungalow accommodation is available on or close to the beach and apeerless seafood feast can be arranged at one of the beachside cafes known as ‘warungs’.

Compared to other areas of Bali, the west coast of the Bukit Peninsula remains relativelyremote and undeveloped. Access roads to theocean are often unsealed and most places that

reef and has a take-off area so small that a tablecloth could be thrown over the line-up of surfers.

The local surfboard repairmen, Jerry and Jelly,scour the waves and confirm the damage thatBingin can inflict on both board and body. It is a reminder, if one is needed, that inexperiencedsurfers should treat the Bukit Peninsula withrespect. During a visit earlier this year, we met a local surfer who sported a nasty facial gashcourtesy of a close encounter with the Uluwatureef. Injuries can be considerably more serious. In 1972, the year Morning of the Earth wasreleased, Californian surf adventurer Bob Lavertydrowned while surfing at Uluwatu. On 29 July this year, Bukit witnessed another day of very

...being a surfer is not a prerequisite to enjoying a stint on the Bukit Peninsula.

’’

’’


private grounds. Dreamland Beach and itsbeachfront bars are on your doorstep. The sunset is equally impressive, whether viewed from your own private bungalow or while sippinga cocktail from the plunge pool. A week ofindulgence comes at such a meagre price that you are almost embarrassed when you settle the bill.

One man that does not need to be persuadedabout the charms of the Bukit Peninsula is SteveCooney. Thirty-five years since he paddled intothat famous Uluwatu wave as a schoolboy,Cooney’s attachment to the region is unique

offer accommodation, food or entertainment for tourists operate on a relatively modest scale.Since Falzon and Cooney first stayed overnight at Uluwatu, visiting surfers have been more thanhappy to bed down in basic accommodation,saving their travelling dollars for extra days by the ocean and post-surf Bintang beers.

For those who prefer comfortableaccommodation, there are now boutique hotels. The cliff above Bingin Beach in particular hassimple but stylish places of unsurpassedhospitality. You don’t need to be interested in the surf to enjoy the cliff-top panoramas, the delicious food and relaxing in the landscaped

indonesia


#56 get lost! ISSUE #11 get in the know! Peruvian surfer Felipe Pomar won the World Titles when they were conducted in his homeland in 1965.

therideof thepescadores

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get in the know! Peruvian waters abound with fish such as mackerel, sea bass, tuna, swordfish and shark. ISSUE #11 get lost! #57

THE SUN IS DISSOLVING GENTLY INTO THEPacific as the first of the riders returns.Rounding the pier, the barrel-chested figure

of Alfredo Ucañan looms quickly, darkened armswhirling tirelessly as his paddle churns throughthe water. With eyes squinted against the sun, he turns his weathered face toward the sea as his golden steed bobs on the incoming swell.Moments later he is gliding swiftly, rocking back in his seat, riding the surf just as his ancestors did over two thousand years ago.

Alfredo is a pescador (fisherman) from thevillage of Huanchaco in northern Peru. As such, he is one of the custodians of the local tradition of building and riding the fishing crafts known as totora (reed) boats. It is a tradition underincreasing pressure as both the coastal marshes – the fragile habitat of the reeds – and thosewilling to follow in their forefather’s footsteps,slowly diminish.

Huanchaco, 550km north of Lima, is renowned for its tranquil setting and laidback ambience. A short bus ride from Peru’s third largest city of Trujillo, it’s a popular hangout for surfers, day-tripping beachgoers and those wanting towitness the local fishermen at work.The village isalso at the heart of some of the region’s greatestpre-Inca civilisations, including the Moche andthe Chimu. Impressive archaeological sites dotthe parched, coastal landscape and date back to 200 BCE. While eroded by time, these cultures

On a Peruvian beach,Andrew Watson watcheslocal fisherman returningto shore astride their‘little horses of reeds’.

The reeds are carefully selected, cut and laid out to dry... tightlywound into bundles of varying sizes before being bound to form twocigar-shaped bundles... The unusual design allows the rider to clearbreakers and ride waves into the shore in the fashion of a surfer.

’’

’’

text: andrew watson

images: andrew watson

peru

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smile

!

#96 get lost! ISSUE #11

I’D DONE A BIT OF HITCHING IN AUSTRALIA, BUT I’Dnever tried it in a country where I didn’t speakthe language. My first attempt came after

three weeks spent picking grapes in France. I washeaded to Oktoberfest and free transport meantmore euros devoted to developing my beer palate.

So, equipped with some useful phrases – “Are you going to...?”, “Can I pay for petrol?”, “Please don’t kill me!”, I hit the road.

My first lift was with a pig farmer. In brokenattempts, I told him about my country and askedhim about his goats. Next was a guy in an old Fiat.He wasn’t going far, but he spoke English and was easy to chat to. I never quite worked out whathe did, but after half an hour of listening to his tales of the French Foreign Legion and his brief stint in jail, I bailed at the nearest on-ramp.

After two hours by the side of the road, inhalingtoxic fumes and dodging missile-like stones thrownup by traffic on the autoroute, I started walking. I figured the stones stood less chance of hitting a moving target. Not more than 15 minutes into mystroll, I heard a car slowing down behind me. I turnedto greet my newfound friends. Unfortunately, theywere six gendarmes, who made it clear that theyhad enough friends. I got the impression they were

saying something about hitchhiking on autoroutesbeing illegal, and making reference to a huge, hairyAlbanian they had in the back who was willing to bemy friend. But, after a while of playing ‘dumb Aussie’,they agreed to give me a lift to the next town.

Here, things got tough. As the day wore on, I started weighing up my options. Keep hitching orgo for a beer? No one was even looking at me. At onepoint in desperation, I even tried doing a little dance.This seemed to scare people, so I went back tostationary begging. I was on the cusp of headingpub-ward, when a Renault flung itself from the other side of the road, across three lanes of rush hour traffic and came screeching to a haltbeside me. It was possibly the most perilous, life-threatening piece of driving I have everwitnessed. Was taking this ride a smart move, or was this one of those moments where it’s best to run with commonsense? I took the ride.

The driver was a small, middle-aged Frenchwoman and it became apparent that she had nointention of taking me any closer to my destination.Instead, she decided to give me a lesson on how to travel for free in France. Years travelling aroundher country on a shoestring budget had taught her everything there is to know about fare evasion.For instance, in light of the upcoming presidentialelections, I should be taking the trains. Instead ofpaying the fares, I should just collect the fines safein the knowledge that, come election day, all minorinfringements are waived! However, given I wasintent on hitchhiking, she was going to take me to the best place in town to get a lift – the long-haultruck stop. We pulled in and she started knocking on truckies’ windows. Before too long, she found me a driver who could take me further than all therides I’d had combined.

I followed the trucking routes all the way to Munich,where the money I’d saved was soundly invested in steins. From then on, I became a professionaltight-arse traveller thumbing down Chevies andshitboxes, janitors and Jehovah’s witnesses.

I learnt three important things as a veteranfreeloader: pick your spot carefully, try to mask the stench of your “hitcher-pits” and smile like youmean it ... (unless you land the Jehovah’s witnesses– then you’re buggered).

This is the first thing I learnt about hitchhiking:getting a ride really comes down to your smile. Smile too much and you look suspicious, not enough and you could be the escaped convict just mentioned on the radio!

get in the know! Hitchhiking is illegal in Australia, but is an acceptable method of travel in Botswana.

confessions

LIKE YOU MEANITtext: toby marsh

At one point in desperation, I even tried doing a little dance.

This seemed to scare people, so I went back to stationary begging.

’’

’’

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