GITG Box Blind

7/16/2019 GITG Box Blind

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How to Build a

PORTABLE BOX STAND

Note: These instructions are provided

only as a guide to building a portable box

stand. Anyone building this or any other

type of structure assumes all liability for

their own construction. If you do not feel

confident building this structure, work with

a local building expert to assist you. When

using power tools, always follow the safety

instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Not ng eats t e com ort o a we - u t ox stan . ese popu ar

stands provide the hunter protection from the elements as well

as concealment. However, traditional box stands are not constructed to

ma e tear own an mov ng t e stan easy.

The stand aired on Get in the Game is admittedly much larger than

your typ ca ox stan . ou can use our as c nstruct ons to u

your own box stand. If you want to build a smaller stand simply scale

down the dimensions presented here.

THE BASE (8’ wide x 6’ deep x 8’ high)

The base is the only part of the project where light-weight materials are no used. After all,

the base must be strong and stable.

ater a s:

• - oot pressure treate x

These form the legs for the stand. You can substitute with 8-foot pressure treated

4”x4” if building a smaller stand. However, do not use legs taller than 8 feet . The

g er t e stan t e ess sta e t e structure w e, espec a y n g w n s.

emem er t at u ng a g er ox stan w not mprove your unt ng

• pressure treate x

• (8) 5” long lag bolts

• (12) 8’ pressure treated 2”x4”

• pressure treate xInstructions:

1. Start by laying out the two 8’ sides. Lay the two 6”x6”s flat on the floor, parallel

to each other 7’9” apart (outside measurement). This will allow for your 2”x8” to

ave a . over ang on eac s e.

2. Lay a 2”x8” (called the “band”) across the top of the 6”x6” and pre-drill a hole

or a ag o t. a e sure . o x exten s eyon t e x . e top o t e

2”x8” should be flush with top of the 6”x6”. Screw one lag bolt through the hole in

the 2”x8” into the 6”x6”. Use four wood decking screws around each lag bolt for

extra stability. Repeat on the other side.

3. Lay a 2”x4” across the bottom, 1’ off the other end of the 6”x6” and use wood decking screws

to attach the 2”x4” to the 6”x6”s. Add in cross bracing int e same manner.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 to build a second frame for the base.

. Now stand up both sides of base so the 2”x8”s are on

the outside and at the top. Make sure you have some

e p to eep t e s es up. os ton t e s es

6’ apart and parallel to each other.

. ttac a pressure treate x cut to ong to t e

6”x6” and attach with lag bolts and screws to complete the band on one side. Attach

the 2”x4” across the bottom of each 6-foot side using deck screws and then attach

cross racng. s ng cross rac ng s cr t ca to ensure t e structure s r g .

Repeat this for both of the 6’ sides. You should now have a platform that is 6’ by 8’.

7’9’’

’

8’

8’

6 ’

8 ’

2

3



6. Now rip a 7’ long 2”x4” down the middle to create

your ledger strip. This ledger strip is attached to the

inside of your band on the 8-foot side. This will provide

added support for the joists that will support your

floor system. Screw in your ledger strip so the top

of the ledger strip is 51 ⁄ 2” from the top of your band.

Remember, a 2”x6” is actually 1½”x5½”. This will ensure

that when you place your floor joists, the joists will be

flush with the top of the band.

7. Cut three 2”x6” joists to 5’ 9” and place on the ledger strip on 24” centers. Use 3” wood screws to attach joists

to the outside bands. Do not attach the center joist until

you have placed your decking. This will help you better

align the edge of the flooring so each of the two sheets

overlaps the center of the joist. Remember, nothing is

ever perfectly square so minor

adjusts are almost

always necessary.

8. Cut two ¾” pressure treated 4’x8’ sheets down to two 4’x6’ sections.

Attach sheets to base using deck screws. Place screws 6” apart.

BUILDING THE SIDES

The lightweight construction materials for the walls of the box stand is what

allows for its portability. You will need to locate aluminum materials.

We used two different types of aluminum products. Most of the project was completed using 1”x2” aluminum channel.

We also used 2”x2” aluminum tubing on the four corners and the shooting rail. Both of these products are used in

the construction of sun rooms and screened porches. To find suppliers of these products on the web, you can enter

“aluminum building materials for patio room” into your computer’s search engine. Or, you can contact a local contractor

and see if you can purchase left-over materials or new materials.

Building the sides is the easiest part of the project. You will need a circular saw, or better yet, a miter saw, with a blade

designed for cutting aluminum. Your local hardware store will have these blades available.

Materials

• (100 feet) 1”x2” aluminum channel

• (32 feet) 2”x2” aluminum tubing

• (50) aluminum “L” brackets

• (10 pounds) sheet metal screws (5 ⁄ 8”x 1 ⁄ 4”)

• (8) 4’x8’ 1 ⁄ 8”sheets luan plywood

The combination of thin luan and aluminum framing results in a very rigid, strong and lightweight wall. We assembled

each of the four walls, including the door, in the shop. Once each wall was constructed it was a simple matter of

attaching the walls to the platform once in the field.

To allow for a pitch to our roof, we built the front wall slightly taller (6’) than the rear wall (5’8”). This way, the rain drains

off the rear of the structure instead of dripping down on your gun barrel.

51/2”

4

6 ’ 4 ’

4 ’

You should now have a base that is strong and rigid.

The base should not rock back and forth. If it does,

add additional bracing to remove any movement in

your base. Constructing a strong base is critical.

6

8



Instructions

1. Start by constructing the front wall

(8’ side). Cut 3 sticks of the 1”x2”

channel and 1 stick of the 2”x2” tubing

to a length of 7’8”. One 1”x2” channel

stick will run parallel to the floor, the

x tu ng st c s pos t one

above and parallel to the bottom

channel. This second stick becomest e ottom o your s oot ng ra . e

next stick of 1”2” channel is placed 12”

above your shooting rail (becomes the

top o your w n ow an na y t e ast

stick of 1”x2” channel is placed at the

top of your wall (in front wall, this is 6’

rom t e ottom o t e wa .

Note: You can make the shooting

w n ow ta er y ra s ng t e t r

stick of aluminum channel.

. ext, cut two x a um num st c s

to 6’ high. These will be the ends of the wall. Use the “L” brackets to attach

t e open- ac c anne st c s to t e

x tu ng st c s.

Note: the aluminum sticks should

be placed so the 1” side of the stick

is against the wall (in other words,

you will be 2” wide).

Make sure that the channel stick has

the flat surface toward the floor on the

ottom, an at sur ace ac ng up on

the top rail that attaches to the roof.

(see insets)3. Cut three pieces of channel to 3’,

and attach these on 2’ centers to the

ottom c anne at t e oor an to

the bottom of the shooting rail. This

will allow for additional strength when

rest ng your gun on t e ra .

4. Now that you have assembled this

wa s e eton, you are rea y to cut

an attac t e uan to t e s es. e

recommend that you paint your luan

us ng ename pa nt we use green

before cutting to size. Cut the firstsheet to 36”x96”. This will cover the

wa rom t e oor to t e ottom o

the shooting rail. Cut another sheet

24”x96” and attach to the top of the

wall. Use sheet-metal screws to attach

t e uan to t e a um num st c s. ttac

screws every 6” to add strength and

keep the walls from rattling against the

tu ng n t e w n .

2x2 1x2

2’ 2’

’

’

’

2’ 2’

FRONT

CHANNEL

FACES UP

CHANNEL

FACES DOWN





THE ROOF

There are several options for the roof. We used four sheets of tin (4’x10’)

and allowed for overhang on all four sides. This overhang provided additional

protection to the structure from rain. We used roofing screws with rubber

washers (designed for this type of application) to attach the sheets.

There are a variety of roofing materials on the market that you can use. Many

of the fiberglass and vinyl roofs are even lighter than the tin we used. Attach the

roofing to two 1”x4” pressure treated boards. Each board will sit on top of and

parallel to the front and back wall.

ASSEMBLY IN THE FIELD

At this point it’s time to load everything on a trailer and transport to your location

in the field. Once you reach your location it’s a simple matter of unloading

everything and making sure the base is level and stable. Don’t guess—use a

level to make sure the base is level before you assemble the sides and roof.

Although you only need two people to set up the structure, it is much safer if you have three of four people on hand to

stabilize ladders and hand up materials.

1. Start by positioning the front wall and use 2” deck screws to screw down through the 1”x2” tubing into the top of the

band. Use a screw every 12”.

2. Next, position a side wall and pilot drill a hole through the 1”x2” open-back channel on the side wall into the 2”x2” tubingon the front and real wall. Drill in a sheet metal screw to attach the walls to each other. Use one screw every 12”.

3. Finally, and this is where you need as much help as possible, lift the roof onto the structure. Use at least two or even

four people in the stand and two to four people below to lift the roof on top of the walls. Use ½” wood screws to attach the

top open-back channel to the 1”x4”. (see above illustration)

1”x4”

FRONT

WALL

1”x2”ALUMINUM

CHANNEL

WOOD SCREW(FINAL STEP TO

ATTACHING ROOF)

ROOFING

SCREWROOF

MATERIAL

LUAN

2”X8”

BAND

FLOOR

1”x2” ALUMINUM

CHANNEL

SHEET METAL

SCREW

PILOT DRILLED

HOLES EVERY 12”

Once this is complete you can

attach your door and windows

if you decide to use windows.

Use your imagination!

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