Gilbert & Gaillard magazine

Contents

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2012 3

11 LONDON LIFE

13-18NEWS

74-76LIVE FROM SPAIN

• A great Spanish gentleman's

vineyard

84-85SAN FRANCISCO LIFE

• Nopa: A San Francisco

Gathering Place

92-95 FAMILY BUSINESS

• Miguel Torres:

From Spain to the world

102-104WINE AND FOOD

• La Côte Saint Jacques…

A family affair, from Marie

to Jean-Michel

106-107WINE QUOTATIONS

• The magic of Saint-Emilion

108-110 STARS AND WINE

• Katherine Heigl and

Dustin Hoffman

112-114 RECOMMENDED WINES

GILBERT & GAILLARD

THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE

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SUMMER 2012

50 108

84

50-51ORGANIC NEWS

• Gilles Louvet: the inventor of

organic wine shipping

COVER : © PERSEOMEDUSA FOTOLIA – ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

4 GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2012

CONTENTS

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THIS MAGAZINEIS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE

PAPER

19-49 COVER STORY

• Hidden excellence:

Italy's top white wines

• Amazing Spanish whites

in a red country

• White wines score top marks

for diversity

• Rated wines 90/100 and more

• Rated wines 86-89/100

52-57 REGION• The Place de Bordeaux: Bordeaux’s

wine trade under scrutiny

58-65QUALITY FACTORS• Chardonnay in Blanc de Blancs

Champagne: a diamond of C’s

66-70 REGION• Miraculous Rioja wines

72-73 QUALITY FACTORS• Tempranillo: undisputed

queen of the Spanish viticultural landscape

86-91 TRAVEL• The surprising wine country of

North Carolina

96-101 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS• Cape harvest of Good Hope

Don't miss out!

Weare delighted to present the 2012 Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins. All the

wines featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring

a rigorous, impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind

tasted by Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100

point scale is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as

no more than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.

7,000 wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes and

recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious

wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to

discover too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed,

with commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins is the essential guide to discovering european wines.

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2012 NEWFRENCH EDITION

FRANÇOIS GILBERT


Italy is a leading wine producer both in volume and

quality terms. Italy’s wine regions are renowned across

the globe due to a highly successful and long-standing

export strategy. The greatest beneficiaries of this strategy,

though, are Italy’s red wines: Barolo, Barbera, Chianti,

Brunello di Montalcino… In this issue, we have decided

to turn the spotlight on its outstanding white wines

which demonstrate just how varied and comprehensive

its wine regions are.

Our report features some exciting new finds including

wines from Veneto (Soave Classico DOC), Friuli

(Colli Orientali DOC, Isonzo DOC, Collio e Carso DOC),

Campania (Greco di Tufo DOCG, Fiano di Avellino

DOCG) and even some incredible whites from the

Piedmont (Gavi del Gavi DOCG).

These regions and appellations belong to “consortiums”

and are extremely successful in their domestic market.

They are also starting to play a more significant part in

Italian exports. Above all though, most of them use

extremely idiosyncratic native grape varieties, thereby

going completely against the tide of globalisation that

has spread throughout the wine industry over the last

twenty years.

What better reason therefore to introduce them to

you - apart from, that is, their impeccable quality

which will before long turn them into formidable

competitors in the global marketplace.

François GilbertEditorial director

www.gilbertgaillard.com

Italy looks great in white

Don't miss out!

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FIRST EDITION

‘’This is the first wine guide in Chinese published byrenowned French wine tasters. All the wines are tastedbefore being selected and must score a minimum of75/100.’’

‘’ They all feature a detailed tasting commentary as wellas serving advice and food pairing recommendations.’’

‘’The essential guide for discovering French andEuropean wines!’’

� 482 pages � 2 350 wines presented � 300 Bordeaux vintage 2010 �

� Exhaustive presentation of the French appellations (AOCs) �

PUBLICATION DATE:January 2012

PHILIPPE GAILLARD


Modern-day conquistadores may not have

swords or armour but they are once again bound for

America, this time laden with bottles and determined

to convert New World populations over to their wines.

And it’s working!

Spanish wine exports totalled 1.92 billion euros in 2010,

up 10 % on 2009. The previous fiscal year was also suc-

cessful with wine exports again beating all-time world

records, both in volume and value terms. Spanish sales

abroad thus posted 15.6 % increases by volume and

value… In value terms, the three leading markets were

Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States.

Although obviously the economic crisis has undermined

performance in the industry, especially for domestic

consumption, in sales terms Spain outstripped countries

such as Italy and France for the second year running.

The surge is particularly noticeable in the American

market. The case of Rias Baixas appellation wine exports

which rose from 529,000 litres in 2004 to 1.9 million

in 2010 (+259 %) speaks volumes about Spain’s

overall performance. In conjunction with the appellation,

the Galicia Institute for Economic Promotion (IGAPE)

and the Spanish Foreign Trade Institute (ICEX) have

planned to roll out a promotional campaign until

2013 at a total cost of 1.7 million euros. The primary

aim of the thrust is to spark loyalty by engaging with

American consumers.

Perhaps the Kingdom of Spain’s economic salvation

involves rallying this newly-styled army that is determined

to conquer the New World once and for all.

Source: ICEX

Philippe GaillardEditorial director


Spain is conquering the New Worldfor the secondtime around


SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD


A huge step forward has been made with theadvent of truly organic wine, though we will have to waituntil August 1, 2012 for its official arrival within theEuropean community. Until now, only the grapes wereorganic with organic procedures stopping at the cellardoor. Henceforth, the wine making process is includedand therefore the wine made from these grapes becomesgenuinely organic.

The new regulations are the outcome of a Europeanconsensus involving the main producer countries(Germany, Austria, Spain, France, Italy…). They have twomain virtues: firstly they apply to all European producercountries in the same way, placing them on an equal footing. Secondly, they feature an exhaustive list of authorised products and procedures (filtration, reverseosmosis…) thereby excluding any other procedure at least until the text is probably reviewed in a few years’time. A few issues are obviously questionable such as thepotential use of oak chips (should they be organic chips?)and exogenous yeasts (that are not already in the grapemust and are added) that produce very specific aromaswith only a tenuous link to the local terroir. Complaintshave already been voiced over this, pointing to the complacency of the regulations and promising to createmuch more drastic standards.

The most positive aspect though is improved communication. Until now, it has been a nightmare forgrowers to have to explain to consumers that the grapeswere organic, but not the wine! The “organic wine” statement on labels will unquestionably clarify the issueand probably spark even greater consumer interest forwines that already boast a highly positive image.

Sylvain PatardEditor in chief

Organic winethat’s nowreally organic!

LONDON LIFE


Spanish food and wine have enjoyed a real renaissance in Londonover the past decade, demonstrated by an ever-growing list ofsuperb restaurants (Moro, Angels & Gypsies, El Parador andProvidores are all excellent, in addition to those below) and a surgein quality (and availability) of the country’s wines. With a recent highprofile UK TV series about the cuisine of Spain and a raft of newopenings in the capital, I was inspired to investigate further.

A Spanish revolution

ONE STREET, TWO GREAT VENUES

José104 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3UBTel. +44 (0)207 403 4902www.joserestaurant.co.uk

Anyone that has been to Jerez will have a

story about a wonderful night spent in a

Mark Andrew

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José

José

Manzanilla (£5.50 per glass). Perfectalongside some olives and jamon. Thefood is expertly prepared, keenly pricedand unashamedly of tapas proportions -after all, that is the raison d’être of theplace. I thoroughly enjoyed my albongidas(meatballs) and patatas bravas with a glassof Decenio Rioja (£7 per glass), and by thetime I was finished the place was packedand buzzing, just like a great tapas barshould be.

series of incredible Sherry and tapas bars,

with amazing food, a wonderful wine list

and an atmosphere to match. Why don’t

we have anything like that in the UK? Well,

increasingly we do and José might just be

the most authentic of them all. This tiny

place is situated on one of the most vibrant

streets in London and after arriving early

evening and grabbing a seat at the bar,

the ambience, if not the weather outside,

could have tricked me into believing that I

was in Spain.

The small but well-chosen wine list wasput together by Tim Atkin MW and JoAhearne MW and I was delighted to seethey had selected the Hidalgo La Gitana

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LONDON LIFE

ONE STREET, TWO GREAT VENUES

Pizarro194 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3TQTel. +44 (0)207 407 7339 www.pizarrorestaurant.com

The eponymous José of the bar above is

also the eponymous Pizarro of this great

restaurant a little further down the street.

José Pizarro has impeccable credentials

(including 1* Michelin Meson de Doña

Filo in Madrid and London’s Spanish

icon, Brindisa), and a few weeks after I

visited his tapas bar, I enjoyed dinner at

his attractively designed restaurant. There

is more of an emphasis on food at

Pizarro and the results are excellent. My

prawns with cecina (a delicious cured

beef) was a great start and bettered only

by the crispy quail in Romesca sauce and

creamy salt cod. Spanish classics made

with top quality ingredients and washed

down with a bottle of Terrer d’Aubert

Cabernet Sauvignon from Tarragon (a

bargain at £46). Pizarro is lively and the

food is delicious. Let’s hope José takes

over the whole street!

PREMIUM TAPAS EXPERIENCE

Fino 33 Charlotte Street London W1T 1RR Tel. +44 (0)207 813 8010www.finorestaurant.com

There are a handful of Spanish restaurants

in London that have been responsible for

changing the perception of Spanish cuisine

over the past few years and Fino is definitely

one of these, a sleek and chic venue on

Charlotte Street in Fitzrovia. The team

here are also behind the more casual

Barrafina in Soho (a great place for a

drink and some tapas), but Fino is more

impressive in every way.

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I find it difficult to be in the same buildingas jamon and not devour some, so westarted with a platter of deliciouscharcuterie that matched perfectly witha salty glass of Fino from Valdespino(£6.50). Seafood is a key part of anySpanish meal and we ordered someoctopus, king prawns and arroz negro

(rice with squid ink) to go with a bottleof the incredible 1991 Lopez de HerediaRioja Blanco Reserva (an absolutebargain at £62). Rump of lamb andpork belly followed, with a glass of anelegant and fruity Garnacha fromCastillian winery Navaherreros (£7.20per glass). Despite the handsome prices,Fino is impressive in every way.

Pizarro

Fino Pizarro

2011 - A GREAT VINTAGEFOR COGNACThe world’s leading brandy confirmed it was in fine fettle

in 2011 with significant sales growth of 6.4% on the previous

year, thereby breaking volume and value records. More

than five bottles of Cognac are sold every second worldwide.

In 2011, shipments beat the previous annual record, rising to

455,958 hectolitres of pure alcohol and 162.9 million bottles.

Turnover is in excess of 2 billion euros due to the fact that

the volume increase was coupled with an upward surge in

quality (XO: +15.3% and VSOP: +7.9% in a year) which

produced a substantial rise in turnover.

Sales are divided evenly across the three main geographical regions. The Far East, which

accounts for 35.8% of the global market by volume (+14.4% in a year) and buys primarily

higher quality Cognac, consolidated its leading global position by volume and value. The Chinese

market was particularly bullish again with a 20.1% increase over the year to 22.6 million bottles.

The United States remains the world’s leading importer, with 48.4 million bottles.

Europe accounts for 28.8% of the world market with no change on the previous year.

BNIC website: www.cognac.fr

MEET NICOLAS: 190 YEARS OLD AND STILL AS YOUNG AS EVERNicolas' story begins aeons ago when wine was drunk in

cabaret clubs. Drinking at home meant buying a whole barrel

because wines were not sold in bottles. In 1822, the founder

of Nicolas dreamt up a whole new concept: he would sell his

wines in bottles, and thus the Nicolas wine stores were born.

Three specialist wine and spirits stores opened in Paris; by

1870 there were 30, in 1919 there were 138, and by the

brand’s centenary in 1922, there were 180.

Created by Dransy (the pen name of illustrator Jules

Isnard), Nectar became extremely popular and a very

successful publicity stunt. Thanks to Etienne Nicolas, who took over the helm of the family

firm and who had an acute flair for publicity, Nectar’s adventures ran for many years and took

the 24-bottle delivery man across the world. The results were impressive and his son Pierre

Nicolas was to capitalise on them until 1973.

Fifty years of artistic creation form a bond between the Nicolas stores - which have belonged

to the Castel group since 1988 - and the world of art. Today, Nicolas boasts 549 shops

throughout Europe with a turnover of 350 million euros. The brand has revealed a new, more

minimalist appearance that is firmly focused on the future and on modernity. One might

even say that Nicolas has been rejuvenated.

www.nicolas.com


AP ALSACE75X285.PDF

Nectar, the 24-bottle delivery man

NEWS


NEWS

Bordeaux 2011: weather report

The vintage came on the heels of

hot year with temperatures above

the 30-year average for eight

months and an overall shortfall in

rain, except for the months of July

and August. Sunshine hours were

long (April being the hottest

month since records began in

1920), particularly in September

and October. This promoted the

latest stages of ripening for the

fruit although temperatures

remained moderate.

Conditions were favourable and

gave acidity and aromatic maturity

to the dry whites. The Merlot

harvest began at the end of

August, becoming more wide-

spread in mid-September, as for the Cabernet Franc. Traditionally later-ripening

varietal Cabernet-Sauvignon enjoyed fine weather in September, allowing it to fully

ripen. The sweet whites were fairly early and September ensured ideal conditions for the

spread of botrytis. Obviously, all this remains to be confirmed by tasting, so watch this

space! Find out all you need to know about 2011 Bordeaux in our June issue.

Erratum• One of the prices in our Champagne ranking in December 2011’s issue 7 was wrongly quoted.

Champagne Henriot Brut Rosé (page 30) obviously does not cost 5€ but 37€.

• We also omitted to mention the title of a wine in our Best Wines of the Year rating in issue 6, pub-

lished autumn 2011. On page 36, the Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel scoring 94/100 is the Ravanès

Le Renard blanc Oméga 2005 by Domaine de Ravanès.

• Chinese edition of the 2012 Wine Guide

• We unfortunately forgot to mention the Clos Saint-Pierre - Urbi 2009 in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape

appellation wines selected in this edition. Our apologies to the wine’s owners. Here is our commentary

for the wine in English and Chinese:

93/100 Clos Saint-Pierre - Urbi 2009

Deeply-coloured. Endearing focused nose showing a seductive fruity character underscored by subtle

mineral and spice notes. Full palate with nicely harnessed power and focused aromas. Good length.

Very harmonious across the palate.

Score: 93/100 Clos Saint Pierre - Urbi 2009

强烈的色彩。酒香纯净，含有微妙诱人的果味、辛香料和矿物质香味。口感饱满平衡、

质地细腻、芳香清新，酒体非常和谐。

Our apologies to these companies and to our readers.

Mas BruguièreLa Grenadière 2008

Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup A.C.

Mr GOURLANDTCAVAVIN LAON

54, rue Eugène Leduc02000 LAON

( +33 (0)9 82 40 23 03

Château ViellaPrestige 2008Madiran A.C.

Mr GEBLEUXCAVAVIN CHANTILLY3, Place Omer Vallon60500 CHANTILLY

( +33 (0)3 44 58 18 62

Spring 2012

In every issue,4 winemakers are thegold medal winners

Étienne BOIVINFranchise Development Manager

17.70 €*

17.90 €*

6.60 €** Retail price including sales tax

Château de RhodesGaillac doux 2005

Gaillac doux A.C.

Mr LAVILLECAVAVIN ALBI2, rue Émile Grand81000 ALBI

( +33 (0)5 81 02 40 45

12.70 €*

La ChablisienneChablis La Sereine 2008

Chablis A.C.

Mr LAFOYCAVAVIN CHEVIGNY

ST SAUVEUR33, avenue de la République21800 CHEVIGNY ST SAUVEUR( +33 (0)3 80 56 63 14

NEWS


Languedoc has been suffering from a drought for the past few months and yet on February 19thit rained in Lunel. Find that hard to believe? Well, I’m absolutely certainly of it. It rained acollection of venerable bottles over our table at the excellent restaurant L’Anguille sous Clochein the town centre. Here’s my fly on the wall account of what happened next.

Old vintages in Lunel: Burgundy comes out tops

Continued on page 16

Philippe Roux, who writes the Wine Quotations columnin this magazine, had the great idea of inviting us tothis extremely friendly setting, and he kindly brought

along a few outstanding bottles (see the list in the box).Philippe Gaillard, François Gilbert, Marc Valette (Domaine

Canet Valette) and one of his employees, Véronique Cesbron,and myself were present. Restaurant owner Emmanuel Bruneland his chef David Grelier had prepared us a menu reflectingthe simplicity and taste of these mature wines: large cuppedoysters topped with heart sweetbread in a sweet potato sauce forstarter, followed by very simple yet delicious wild boar chopswith mashed potatoes and home made preserve.

The evening got off to a wonderful start with two white Burgundiesthat were open yet also boasting the kind of acidity that hadallowed them to age effortlessly. Next came two reds in marvellouscondition; the 1929 Gevrey-Chambertin Village seemed the livelierof the two with outstanding fullness and aromatic quality.

Paradoxically, the Bordeaux wines were the most disappointingeven though the 1955 Pavie did impress for a moment beforeflowing into quite odd fragrances of geranium, toffee and mint.The most disappointing wines were the 1961 Ducru-Beaucaillou,a great 20th century vintage that was extremely tired; the 1929Pichon Comtesse that had given up the ghost; and finally, the1918 Léoville Las-Cases that had also fallen by the wayside. A1935 Clos des Papes struggled to inspire us as we had suspectedfrom the level in the bottle; the pronounced aromas of walnut andrancio confirmed our first impressions.

Fortunately, a 1911 Monbazillac brightened up dessert withits incredible precision and delicious aromas that were stillvery fresh.

THE EVENING GOT OFF TO A WONDERFULSTART WITH TWO WHITE BURGUNDIES

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NEWS

Perfection seemed a long way off but obviously we must not

lose sight of the fact that wine is a living thing and like us, it

has its imperfections that can become more apparent with

age. Irrespective of the quality of the wine in the bottle, this

type of tasting is always a huge pleasure, a voyage of discovery

full of uncertainties, disappointments and moments of sheer

delight. So we should make allowances for these wines, especially

the oldest ones. Sylvain Patard

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OLDER VINTAGES ARE ALWAYS A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

For many years, Emmanuel Brunel honed his skills as asommelier in Montpellier before opening a restaurant inLunel. His ethos is simple: finding products of the higheststandard that will fully reveal themselves on the plate. Theeggs come from his own chicken, the vegetables from hiskitchen garden and the wild boar on the menu was huntedand shot by himself, not forgetting the myriad local produ-cers he works with year-round (ham, foie gras, oysters…).The wine list lives up to expectations with 100 or so care-fully selected wines with particular emphasis on local gro-wers and affordable prices. The end result is highly success-ful, delicious and authentic; an ode to pleasure that hasalready won over local residents as well as tourists keen todiscover a good address while on holiday.

WHITE BURGUNDIESRavenot - 2002 Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre Olivier Leflaive - 1988 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles

RED BURGUNDIESNaigean-Chauveau - 1961 Corton

Paul Etienne - 1929 Gevrey-Chambertin

RED BORDEAUXSaint-Julien - 1961 Ducru-Beaucaillou

Saint-Emilion - 1955 Pavie Pauillac - 1929 Pichon-Comtesse

Saint-Julien - 1918 Léoville Las-Cases

RED RHÔNEChâteauneuf du Pape - 1935 Clos des Papes

SWEET WINE FROM THE SOUTH-WESTMonbazillac - 1911 Château de la Salagre

L’ANGUILLE SOUS CLOCHE42, rue Roger Salengro - 34400 Lunel - France

Tel. +33 (0)4 67 22 38 47

The secret is in the ingredients

Emmanuel Brunel and his chef, David Grelier

Emmanuel Brunel honed his skills as a sommelier in Montpellier beforeopening a restaurant in Lunel

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Established in 1985 by MichelBourel, the group currently boasts120 stores in France and even anewly-opened department inEngland. The new store concept ishighly innovative and more consumer-friendly. The pictures speak forthemselves!

T he Cavavin concept was inspired by a simple fact: at atime when the wine world is becoming more modern,the old fashioned image of wine merchants needs a

revamp. Cavavin’s new concept is thus inspired by the need formodernisation. The stores are minimalist and airy in design soas to invite the consumer to discover new wines in a warm andfriendly setting.

Changes have been introduced both inside and out, startingwith the fascia and its charcoal grey tones. These have replacedCavavin’s traditional green for reasons of sobriety, eleganceand… planning restrictions. The shop front now truly drawswine lovers and consumers inside. The windows are floor toceiling, increasing the impression of depth and atmosphere,and the display units make the space extremely dynamic. Aharmonious choice of colours and materials are the crowningglory of a concept combining modernism and terroir.

Inside, the display units have been totally redesigned withthe same concern for sobriety and so that the entire rangecan be seen at a glance. The shop is light and airy and bottlepresentation is pleasing to the eye. Each range has its own areaand the spirits are displayed behind a slate counter stampedwith a large, bright Cavavin bunch of grapes.

The aim of the new concept is to come as close as possible toa warm, friendly and familiar environment.

For more information: www.cavavin.fr

Cavavin gets a new look

M. GAMBIER (LE HAVRE) M. GEBLEUX (CHANTILLY) M. LAMANT (THIONVILLE) M. VALENTIN (RÉUNION)

SOME OF THE FORTUNATE WINE MERCHANTS IN THE CAVAVIN NETWORKWHO ALREADY HAVE THE NEW SHOP FITTINGS

ADVERTORIAL


NEWS

Corporate Social Responsibility; a major product exhibition -

Innoval - displayed more than 140 innovations.

Held within Alimentaria, wine and spirits show Intervin once

again hosted leading wine brands, and this year welcomed

representatives from Moldavia, Lithuania, Holland, the UK

and Mexico. Working in collaboration with international trade

platforms the International Beverage Network and Global

Wines, as well as international food platform AGRELMA, the

event was able to significantly broaden its reach worldwide.

Show organisers point out that Alimentaria's commitment to

internationalisation is born out by figures from the Spanish

Wine Market Observatory: in the first nine months of 2011,

Spain exported 1.61 billion litres of wine (26.6% up on the

same period in 2010), representing some 1.56 billion euros for

the industry. �

ALIMENTARIA IS ONE OFTHE WORLD'S MOST

IMPORTANT FOOD ANDDRINK TRADE SHOWS

Annual international food and drinks exhibitionAlimentaria was held at Barcelona's Fira Gran Viavenue at the end of March. Lasting for four days, this

is one of the most important food and drinks trade shows inthe world, attended by the major international operators infood and drink manufacturing, distribution and trade. Theevent's success derives from highly specialised offerings,innovation, and a resolutely international focus.

The 19th edition of this trade fair showcased internationalexpansion, competitiveness and brands, featuring around4,000 companies (a third of which were non-Spanish) whopresented their new product offerings and activities acrosssome 95,000 m2. The show was attended by an estimated140,000 buyers (25% from overseas); visitors and exhibitorstook part in a vast programme of conferences and seminars,resulting in around 8,000 business meetings, effectivelymaking Alimentaria THE place to be for the agri-food industry.

Alimentaria 2012 also saw the unveiling of the AlimentariaHub, a 4,000 m² focal point for creativity, expertise and trendsacross six themed areas, namely Innovation and R&D,Nutrition, Health & Well-being, Internationalisation &Globalisation, Distribution & Retail, Marketing & Media, and

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ALIMENTARIA2012:

a major success

GILBERT & GAILLARDgi lber tgai l lard .com

HIDDEN EXCELLENCE:ITALY'S TOP WHITE WINES

OUR TASTING RESULTS

All our tast ing reports are on gi lbertgai l lard.com


COVER STORY

Hidden excellence: Italy's top white wines

Although Italy’s world reputation is generally based on red wines,its top white wines are impressive.

known grape giving higher revenues than local red winesmade with Grenache, Mataro. In Italy, outstanding wines aremade with Chardonnay (for example in the Colli Orientali DOC- see table), even if oak levels and yields sometimes appear exag-gerated: often, local consumers confuse Pinot Blanc andChardonnay.

Schiopetto and Gianfranco Gallo di Vie di Romans - seem tounderstand the amazing oppportunity that older vintages representfor wine lovers and collectors. Old habits die hard: red wineageing in Piedmont and Tuscany can be outstanding, for example,but the same is not true for whites. The explanation may be foundin the fact that the Mediterranean climate which dominates the

T he wide number of local whitegrapes grown throughout Italyprovides a significant diversity

in white wines, in terms of style andprovenance. Moving from north tosouth, through world-renowned Tuscanyand its outstanding red wines, it is notunusual to taste some niche appellationssuch as Vernaccia di San Gimignano,Orvieto white wine, not forgetting thenew white wine from the Abruzzoregion, where Pecorino, Passerina andCoccociola are planted and vinified. Innorth-east of Italy, next to the Veneto(known for its Soave and Pinot Grigioproduction), the region of Fruili-Venezia-Giulia (FVG) has a 90% production ofwhite wines.

The Chardonnay grape plays animportant role in Italy: indeed, it isfound and planted worldwide (apartfrom in the Bordeaux area, where theappellation rules prohibit its use). Inthe south of Italy, local red grapes havebeen sacrificed and pulled up in orderto cultivate Chardonnay, which isconsidered as an internationally well-

ITALIAN WHITEWINES ANDCHARDONNAYChardonnay is usually used inLombardy and Trentino to producesparkling wines. Some great whitewines come from Piedmont, where theclimate conditions give an eleganttouch to the Gavi dei Gavi wines madefrom Cortese grapes, not unlike thefresh, elegant and mineral Chardonnaycultivated in the north of Burgundy(see our tastings on La Scolca).

In many parts of Italy Chardonnay isblended with other local white grapeslike Cortese, Favorita, Erbaluce, RibollaGialla, Albana, Trebbiano, Vermentino,Procanico, Incrocio Manzoni, Verdeca,Catarratto and Viognier. Alternatively,some traditional white wines such asSoave in Veneto may be exclusivelymade from Garganega grapes (see ourSoave tastings). Despite the stringentdemands of the DOCG appellation, oldvintage Italian white wines are rarelyavailable. Only two outstanding pro-ducers from Friuli - namely Mario

Delphine lives between Milan

and Paris. She has a PhD in

economics from the University

of Paris-Dauphine and holds a

qualification from the Wine & Spirit

Education Trust in London.

She heads the Italian

office of Gilbert & Gaillard.

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BY DELPHINE VEISSIÈRE

LAMBERTI'S SOAVE ARE MADE WITHGARGANEGA GRAPES CULTIVATED IN THEDEDICATED "CLOS" CALLED "LA PRAELLA"



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Italian peninsula has frequently obligedwinegrowers to harvest early to retain freshness,fruit and aromatic complexity. The drysummers and winter rain fall are suitablefor the production of full-bodied, richlytextured red wines with ripe tannins, likeSangiovese and Nebbiolo.

Thanks to the influence of the Alps, the cli-mate of north-east Italy is mainly mid-con-tinental, which helps produce the mostpure and elegant white wines. Dry weather inautumn favours the making of intensely-flavoured white wineswith a potential for high alcohol levels, which may be vinified assweet wines (like Ramandolo or Picolit). We enjoyed the Conted’Attimis-Maniago Picolit 2008 with its fascinating, bright ambercolour and its fruit-forward nose of roasted chestnut, dried apricotand cinnamon, along with mineral and steely aromas. The palateis sweet and well-balanced, with freshness, dried fruit, and hintsof candied orange. This is an outstanding sweet wine, elegant andwell-made, characterised by a pleasant finish with a caramel notesand impressive length (92/100).

Trentino’s Chardonnay also has a good reputation for its drywhite wines. We enjoyed the Cantine Monfort whites, especiallyCasata Monfort, Blanc de Sers 2010. Its bright lemon colour,intense nose and spring-like elegance captured our attention.Creamy and fruit-driven, the palate is silky and well-delineated,with an elegant, clean finish (88/100).

At our most recent tastings, dry whites wines made withSauvignon and Pinot Grigio impressed us with their aromaticintensity; Pinot Bianco and Ribolla Gialla are less intense andusually rather anonymous, both on the nose and the palate. Thisexplains why in most cases, Ribolla Gialla is produced andblended in sparkling wines. Friulano and Malvasia are two otherlocal grapes which we will describe later.

Chardonnay plantings in the north of Italy seem to be in danger.Currently, scientists have discovered that a moth with a taste forChardonnay leaves has infested vineyards across northern Italy.The pest was first discovered by Italian scientists in 2006, but theywere unable to identify it; the new species, which now bears the

name Antispila oinophylla, had previously been confused with aNorth American species (Antispila ampelopsifoliella) which feedson Virginia creeper. So far, the species has been found in vineyardsin Italy's Trento and Veneto regions, spreading and increasing inpopulation size since it was first recorded. Having observed themoths in the field, scientists conclude that the insect seems tohave a preference for the leaves of Chardonnay, CabernetSauvignon and Muscat grapes, but the economic impact of thisparticular pest is not yet clear. Should we expect the gradualabandon of Chardonnay plantings? Or will this perhaps encourageItalian producers of outstanding Chardonnay to redouble theirefforts to save Italian Chardonnay?

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SOAVE: THE COMPLEX PATCHWORK

OF DIFFERENT APPELLATIONS (DOC,

DOC CLASSICO AND DOCG)

CORTE MOSCHINA MAKES WELL- BALANCED,TYPICAL ITALIAN WHITE WINES FROM GARGANEGA AND TREBBIANO GRAPES

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COVER STORY

ITALIAN WHITE WINES: 2010 VINTAGEThe 2010 harvest was late in comparison with that of 2009, which

was outstanding in places, very good in others and, in a few,

challenging at best. In 2010, a rainy spring topped up the country’s

water reserves. Summer was also wet compared to 2009, and grape

maturation was late in some regions such as Tuscany. Beyond that,

generalisation in Italy is risky and renders trite the country’s

complex patchwork of regions. In 2010, 46 million hectolitres

were produced (ie. one million hectolitres more compared to

2009). Veneto was the major producer, followed by Puglia and

Emilia-Romagna. Nevertheless production in Italy has continued

to decline, thanks to the reduced yields over the past three

decades, as wine growers look to enhance quality. Some small

appellations, such as Schiopettino di Prepotto in Friuli, followed

restrictive regulations on yields (50hl/ha) which are roughly similar

to Bordeaux Cru classé regulations.

Consumption of table wines is falling and production costs areincreasing, making the pulling up of vines more profitable thanwine production in some areas. In 2008/2009 Italy’s 250,000hectares were slated to be reduced by 12,000 hectares as growerstook advantage of subsidies from Brussels to pull up their vines.The problem is that this money will have been taken by peoplewith old, low-yielding vineyards who cannot cover the costs ofproduction, and thus, Italy is not producing enough good wine.Nevertheless, even if the quality of many of the wines produced in2010 is rather very different from one area to another, from northto south, Italy’s growing reputation for quality and innovationremains. This will be aided by the release of the 2010 Friulan topwhite wines, and some others from Veneto and Piedmont.

The foreign markets are usually strongly oriented towards Italianred wines. However, Italian white wines would seem to offerremarkable potential in terms of international market sharedevelopment, especially in northern European countries such asNorway, thanks to their general quality enhancement obtainedthrough innovation in the vineyard and cellars.

Produced in huge volumes between Veneto and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Pinot Grigio remains the principal competitive market forItaly, mainly driven by the US and UK. Generic white grapes, PinotGrigio, Chardonnay, base sparkling wines (Durello, Erbaluce diCaluso, Ribolla Gialla) and Moscato are the main visiblecommodities on the international white wine markets. Currently,Chardonnay and Moscato seem to be the only two grapes thathave registered stable prices, while Pinot Grigio and Italian genericwhite wines follow their growth on international requests. TheConti Formentini estate - located in the Collio area (FVG region)and belonging to the most important Italian group (GruppoItaliano Vino) - has chosen to produce only non-blended whitewines with pure Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, PinotGrigio and Sauvignon. The 2010 vintage at Conti Formentiniestate is easy-drinking, linear and immediate: aromas are discretand vegetal, both on the nose and palate. Sauvignon Coligo 2010caught our attention with its classic style, silky texture, vividfreshness and elegant finish.

In 2010, efforts were made at regional level to put some localgrapes centre stage, such as Garganega (the Soave traditional grapebase) in Veneto, with new regulations being made to revitalizeSoave. From the 2010 vintage onwards, Soave Superiore DOCGand Recioto di Soave are produced exclusively from the traditionalgrape varieties Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave, thus excludingChardonnay and Pinot Grigio. This variety is also no longerallowed in the making of regular Soave wine. In the vineyards newregulations have been applied regarding the trellising system, withthe reintroduction of the traditional Soave Pergola, with its openingsbetween the vine rows. Garganega grapes are usually characterizedby an important presence of benzenoids and norisprenoids and



are driven by resinous and balsamic scents. A late-ripening variety,Garganega needs a large difference between day- and night-timetemperatures (in September) to give it its typical aromatic profile,and the Pergola system used in viticulture is essential to guaranteethis. The amount of wine bottled has remained at around 430,000hectolitres for some years now. The situation of Soave in themarketplace is similar to that seen in other Italian appellations.There was a slowdown on the German and UK markets in 2007and 2008, but 2010 has seen a return to previous sales volumes.Since 2009 Soave sales have been growing by roughly 14% a year.

SOAVE: WORLD FLAGSHIP OFITALIAN WHITE WINES Soave wines can be produced in the area around the Soavecommune, namely in Monteforte, San Martino B.A., Lavagno,Mezzane, Caldiero, Colognola, Illasi, Cazzano di Tramigna, SanBonifacio, Roncà, Montecchia and S. Giovanni Ilarione.Garganega is the principal grape cultivated on the hillsides, andparticularly in the Alpone, Tramigna, Illasi and Mezzane valleys.In the case of Veronese white wines, the presence of clay in the soiland the tuffo hillsides with their volcanic origins (as at Etna, inSicily) are responsible for the difference in Soave’s styles. Theclimate is mild and temperatures in winter are not too cold. In1931, Soave was already known as a typical, fine white wine and

was registered as a DOC appellation in 1968; the Soave Superiore

DOCG, possibly the most outstanding, was registered in 2001.

The word “Classico” written on a wine bottle label close to the

appellation “Soave” usually indicates that the harvested and vinified

grapes are grown exclusively in the areas of the Soave and

Monteforte d’Alpone communes. This ancient area of production,

with its castles, churches and medieval-style villages, is known as

the “zona storica”; this is the heart of the Soave production area.

Soave DOC is generally an easy, approachable wine with a clear,

lemon or lemon-green robe and medium intensity nose. Despite

some new interpretations of Garganega which provide off-dry and

heavy wines, Soave is usually a dry, white, easy-drinking wine that

is good as an aperitif or with simple, everyday food. It is ready to

drink after the summer which follows the previous harvest. A Soave

that is too youthful shows short length with a vegetal, bitter finish,

lacking the typical stone fruit aromas like apricot, acacia honey and

fresh almonds. The 2010 vintage is ready for drinking and in some

instances will still improve, while 2011 needs to develop until next

September 2012. We enjoyed the Corte Moschina I Tarai 2009 with

its gold colour and open nose; it is clean, fragrant and deep, miner-

al and floral. The palate is off-dry and inviting; the length is good,

with an elegant ending. I Tarai is a balanced wine that is typical of

the Soave DOC appellation (91/100).

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COVER STORY

Soave Classico DOC is more ambitious and produced on the hillsideareas of Soave and Monteforte. It has developed its closestcharacteristics with Soave DOC, with further ageing capacities,and it can surprise the wine lover with its mineral, autolytic noseexpressing lees and kerosene, and even some smoke and stonyaromas when aged. The 2010 vintage from the LambertiSantepietre and Fornaro estates are our favourite Soave Classicopicks, while Suavia Le Rive Soave DOC Classico 2007 is the bestwine of this kind that we have tasted to date. With its clear, lemon-green robe, Lamberti Santepietre 2010 develops a typical vegetalnose balanced with hints of white pepper, stones and kerosene,and pleasant notes of honey and beeswax. The palate is dry andfresh, with good length and a clay-like texture. Santepietre 2010 isintriguing and well-made, closing on a pleasant note of freshalmonds. It is ready to drink, and ideally matched with oven-roasted capon (90/100). Soave Classico Fornaro 2010, is a clear,lemon-green wine with a vegetal, floral nose, showing hints ofkerosene. It is a fruit-driven, mineral wine with good length and areal personality (91/100). Suavia Le Rive 2007 displays a clear,gold colour and a slowly developing nose that hints at keroseneand flint. On the palate it is dry, with good length, closing on apleasant note of bitterness, yellow fruit (apricot) and cream.

Balanced, complex and typical, it is an outstanding Soave winethat would be well-matched with pumpkin (92/100).

Soave Superiore DOCG is produced on the Soave hillsides. Thiswine may age a little longer in the cellar, compared with the twoother appellations. Oak can be used for ageing and wines shoulddeliver higher ripening characteristics and complexity. Soave

DOCG is usually deeper in colour. Bright and clear, aromas aregenerally deeper too, and have the ability to age well. Lookingback at our last tastings of Cantina di Monforte and Dal Cerowines (both from 2010), our comments and conclusions aresurprisingly less enthusiastic in comparison with other Soave appella-tions for both wines, which struck us as unbalanced between nose,palate and finish. Is the 2010 vintage too young to drink? Is it tooambitious to expect a Garganega wine to acquire the characteris-tics of an aged white Sauvignon from the Loire?

Naturally, Garganega does not develop a large aromatic range of

aromas through the fruit, floral, spicy and vegetal ones usually

found in a white wine. It is focused on delicate aromas of flowers

and herbs, with a typical hint of fresh almond. Garganega is a

late-ripening grape that is only ready to be harvested in October;

we also noted that in some wines, besides the vegetal note, the

palate shows some green tannins and bitterness. Freshness is not

one of its principal characteristics and it could be compared with

Sauvignon for its vegetal aspect, but not for the aromatic intensity

and fruit. Garganega makes wines that are dry to off-dry, and

produces the very pleasant, sweet wine known as Recioto di Soave

SUAVIA IS A VENETIAN FAMILY ESTATE CURRENTLY PRODUCING ONE OF THE

FINEST SOAVE WINES

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LAMBERTI'S WINE MAKER NARCISO FAGGIAN IS PART OF

GRUPPO ITALIANO VINI

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DOCG. Fornaro 2009 is a sweet, clear, amber-coloured wine with

a pleasant nose of dried apricot and a hint of mint. Balanced and

well-made, it is ideally matched with aged blue cheese (86/100).

Coffele Le Sponde 2009 shows also a bright, clear, amber colour

with a nose of sultanas and raisins; it is sweet and clean on

the palate, with well-integrated tannins. An attractive sweet

wine to be matched with salty or sweet dishes with a trace of

liquorice (86/100).

TOP PICKS FROM AROUND ITALY Our top picks are located in many places throughout the Italian

mosaic of vineyards, from Tuscany through the Marche and

Abruzzo regions, moving to Campania, Sicily and Sardinia, not

forgetting the Vermentino white wines also produced on the

Maremma appellation on the Tuscan coast.

In the Marche region, Fazi Battaglia is one of the biggest producersof white wines made from Verdicchio, known and distributed inthe major wine shops, supermarkets and trattorias of Italy. FaziBattaglia’s favourite wine is currently the Verdicchio San Sisto2007, with its deep gold colour, evolved and complex nose ofcandied fruits, citrus and honey, backed by subtle mineral undertonesand tar notes. An easy-to drink, fruity wine with a fresh palate andgood balance (86/100). In Abruzzo, bulk wine producer CantinaTollo proposes an interesting dry white wine made with theunknown indigenous grape variety Coccociola; it is straw-yellowwith golden highlights and has a nose dominated by dried fruits,ripe pear and aniseed. The palate is full and fresh, and showswonderful structure.

The aftertaste is precise and savoury, with accents of bitteralmond; an elegant wine (88/100). Sicily and Campania provideauthentic and genuine wines with a strong personality when well-made. Etna is a terroir of excellence for white wines thanks to thecombination of the Mediterranean climate, altitude (the Benantiestate has planted its vineyards at up to 600 metres altitude) andvolcanic terrain providing the wines with pleasant mineral aromasand flavours of stone, flint and smoke. Freshness is usuallypreserved thanks to the differences in temperature between nightand day, and the dry and windy climate.

In Campania, our top picks are from Avellino's Cantine di SanDomenico, which produced an excellent Greco di Tufo DOCGand Fiano di Avellino DOCG. The latter’s 2010 vintage can bedescribed as a bright, golden-hued white wine with an intensenose of fruit, acacia honey, dried flowers and a mineral touch. Thepalate is full and open, with aromas of mild tobacco, honey andwax. A focused yet easy-drinking wine with a finish of caramel andwhite pepper (90/100).

By way of contrast, San Domenico Greco di Tufo 2010 boasts abright, golden hue and a complex,distinctive nose, blending cedarand white pepper, white flowers, dried almond and wax. It showsa full, crisp and mineral palate capped off with notes of coulis andbitter almonds (91/100). Tuscany delivers some curious whitewines via the Vernaccia di San Gimignano appellation that shouldbe tasted for reasons of cultural curiosity, particularly by those on

GARGANEGA GRAPES RIPEN AROUND THECHARMING VILLAGE OF SOAVE, BETWEEN

VERONA AND VENICE

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DAMIANO FORNARO MAKES SOAVE THAT RESPECTS LOCAL TRADITIONS AND

SAVOIR-FAIRE

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COVER STORY

years, La Scolca has continued to focus on classical Gavi wines,making complex, fresh and fruity white cuvées with Cortesegrapes. Located in Rovereto, the “grand cru” of Cortese, La Scolcawines have an aristocratic personality and sincere style; they aremineral and intense, with a long, elegant length. The Gavi winemade from Cortese grapes was invented in La Scolca in 1919.

The estate manages about 50 hectares of vineyard, and vines are

planted to a density of 1500 plants per hectare. In this geographical

position, the micro-climate is characterised by continuous sea

breezes, full exposure from sunrise to sunset, freshness and a certain

humidity. These factors combine to create the best conditions for

the ripeness of the grapes. Our top pick is La Scolca d’Antan 2000,

only produced in the best years and bottled after up to 10 years

ageing in the cellar; it is a light golden wine characterised by an

open and complex nose (hints of chocolate and tobacco) enriched

with toasted notes and gunflint. A highly expressive, lively,

focused palate boasts wonderful structure and finishes on a salty

a wine tour. As an example, Podere La Castellaccia makes a

Vernaccia Astrea 2010 with a straw-yellow robe tinged with green.

The nose is creamy with hints of fresh yeast and hay; floral notes

are revealed by swirling. On the palate, this is a dry, lively, distinctive

wine with subdued fruit (80/100).

THE EXCELLENCE OF PIEDMONTContrary to Burgundy, the Piedmont region has not needed to cultivate

Chardonnay to build its international reputation on red and

white wines, relying instead on Nebbiolo (for the red wines) and

Cortese and Moscato d’Asti for the dry and sweet white wines

respectively. Viti- and vinicultural traditions alone are a guarantee

of quality and outstanding wines. La Scolca estate is one of these

success stories, producing excellent Gavi dei Gavi wines. It was

taken over between 1917 and 1919 by the great-grandfather of

Giorgio Soldati, who presently heads up the estate with his daughter

Chiara (the fifth generation). La Scolca is the oldest estate in this

area. Though innovations have been made over the last ninety

THE PRINCIPAL APPELLATIONS OF FRIULI ARE COLLI ORIENTALI, CARSO, ISONZO, GRAVE AND AQUILEIA

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note (91/100). La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi 2007 is more accessible and

approachable; it has a lemon-coloured robe, an open nose built

around citrus fruit peel aromas along with a touch of gunflint, and

a hint of floral and herbal aromas. Well balanced and harmonious

in the mouth, we enjoyed its velvety texture (89/100). Grapes are

selected cluster by cluster from vines located high in the hillsides

of Rovereto.

THE HIDDEN WINES OF FRIULISelecting a Friulan white wine seems to be easy considering thelarge offer available. More than 20 grape varieties are cultivated inthe principal appellations of Friuli which are: Colli Orientali,Carso, Isonzo, Grave and Aquileia. Excellence is usually associatedwith Friuli but the 2010 vintage was rainier and colder in comparisonwith 2009 and 1998, especially in May and September, and thereforecould be described as a “minor vintage.” Can we really consider2010 as a “lesser” year in Friuli? After tasting more than 120 wineswe concluded that wine-making has made the difference. Throughits climatic characteristics, 2010 represents an “old style” vintageclosest to the average temperature registered during the 1991 to2000 period. Vintages 2002-2003 and 2007-2009 were the hottestyears of the last ten, while 2003 remains the driest. The temperaturedifferences between day and night were moderate and created

Cantine Ullio:A winemaker faithful to tradition

The Piedmont estate of Cantine Ullio was founded in 1885 by the will and passionof great-grandfather Franco, then passed down to grandfather Angelo, then to

the next generation, and since 2008 it has been headed up by descendant DenisCalvo who works with respect for the family's winemaking traditions and style,adding his own rigorous personality to the wines. By exploiting the land'sclayish-sandy soil and good exposure to the sunshine from the east and west, CantineUllio cultivates its vineyards at an altitude of 421 metres with total respect for theenvironment, producing traditional fine wines that are appreciated by the mostdemanding wine lovers of Piedmont-style reds. After our high quality grapes selection,only 90,000 bottles are made each year and aged in our cellar of MontiglioMonferrato, in the Asti area. We are proud of our wines, made only from our veryown grapes. Our beautiful Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Al Culumbè” is our flagshipwine; it is a unique expression of terroir and can be described as a tannic, harmoniousand elegant wine able to age well. It is best appreciated with elegant Italian cuisinebased on meat, truffles and aged cheeses. Al Culumbè 2009 is a beautiful ruby-redhued wine with a vegetal and floral nose of roses and violets, opening up to darkwild fruits. The palate is full, smooth and well-structured. Our Barbera Superiore “AlCulumbè” has concentrated fruit and spice aromas (91/100). Our new challenge,thanks to the partnership with our friend Philippe, is to make our wines selectedby demanding importers and local distributors around the world. The first successare especially in Poland, Germany, Switzerland, USA, South-Korea and China.

Azienda Vitivinicola UllioVia alla stazione, 7 - 14026 Montiglio Monferrato (Asti)

Tel: +39-0141994245 - www.viniullio.eu

FRIULI'S FAMOUS SCHIOPETTO ESTATE IS SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE

COLLIO AREA

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COVER STORY

OUR BEST PICKS OF SOAVE DRY WHITE WINES

OUR BEST PICKS OF FRIULI DRY WHITE WINES

SOAVE DOC CLASSICO92/100 Suavia Le rive 200791/100 Damiano Fornaro 201090/100 Lamberti Santepietre 201089/100 Coffele Cà Visco 201088/100 Cantina del Castello Castello 201088/100 Le Mandolare Monte Sella 200988/100 Cantina di Monteforte Il vicario 201086/100 Le Mandolare Corte Menini 201085/100 Gini Sandro La Froscà 200985/100 Gini Sandro Salvarenza 200985/100 Bolla Rétro 2010

SOAVE DOC91/100 Corte Moschina I Tarai 200986/100 Portinari Le Albare 200986/100 Franchetto Antonio La Capelina 201185/100 Dal Cero Corte Giacobbe 2011

SOAVE SUPERIORE DOCG87/100 Sandro de Bruno Monte San Piero 2008

ISONZO DEL FRIULI DOC

96/100 Vie di Romans Chardonnay 1989

95/100 Vie di Romans Flors di Uis 1992

95/100 Vie di Romans Piere Sauvignon 1995

93/100 Vie di Romans Flors di Uis 1995

92/100 Vie di Romans Piere Sauvignon 1996

92/100 Lis Neris Gris 2009

91/100 Ferlat Silvano Friulano 2010

90/100 Lis Neris Jurosa 2009

90/100 Lis Neris Picol 2010

89/100 I Feudi Di Romans Pinot grigio 2011

89/100 Vie di Romans Chardonnay 2004

89/100 Masut da Rive Sauvignon Rive alte 2010

89/100 Masut da Rive Maurùs Chardonnay 2009

88/100 I Feudi Di Romans Friulano 2011

87/100 Ronco del Gelso Chardonnay settevigne 2010

86/100 Borgo San Daniele Pinot grigio 2010

86/100 Ferlat Silvano Sauvignon 2010

86/100 Ronco del Gelso Friulano 2010

85/100 Tenuta Luisa Eddi Pinot bianco Luisa 2010

85/100 Borgo San Daniele Friulano 2010

85/100 Colmello di Grotta Pinot grigio 2010

COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI DOC

93/100 Roncsoreli Ottolustri 2009

92/100 Conte d'Attimis Maniago Sauvignon 2010

90/100 Pizzulin Sauvignon 2010

89/100 La Viarte Sauvignon 2010

89/100 Specogna Sauvignon 2010

89/100 Ermacora Sauvignon 2010

89/100 Ronco delle Betulle Friulano 2010

88/100 Borgo Judrio Friulano 2010

88/100 Il Roncal Pinot grigio 2010

88/100 Volpe Pasini Sauvignon Zuc di volpe 2010

88/100 Vigna Traverso Sauvignon 2010

87/100 Butussi Pinot grigio 2010

87/100 Arzenton Pinot grigio 2010

87/100 Conte d'Attimis Maniago Chardonnay 2010

87/100 Angoris Spiule 2010

87/100 Marinig Sauvignon 2010

87/100 Roncsoreli Pinot grigio ramato 2009

86/100 La Buse dal Lof Pinot grigio 2010

86/100 Butussi Bianco di corte 2010

86/100 Specogna Friulano 2010

86/100 Arzenton Sauvignon 2010

86/100 Stanig Sauvignon 2010

86/100 Le due Terre Sacrisassi bianco 2009

86/100 Livio Felluga Illivio 2010

86/100 Ronco delle Betulle Vanessa 2008

85/100 Specogna Chardonnay 2009

85/100 Collavini Turian - Ribolla gialla 2010

85/100 Comelli Amplius 2010

85/100 Comelli Sauvignon 2010

85/100 Bastianich Plus 2007

85/100 Vigna Traverso Pinot grigio 2010

85/100 Angoris Collio bianco 2010

CARSO DOC

92/100 Euro Parovel Vinja Barde - Matos Nonet 2007

90/100 Euro Parovel Vinja Barde - Malvasia Istriana 2010

87/100 Euro Parovel Vinja Barde - Vitovska 2010

COLLIO DOC

90/100 Schiopetto Sauvignon 2010

88/100 Humar Friulano 2010

88/100 Collavini Broy 2010

87/100 Humar Ribolla gialla 2010

87/100 Schiopetto Pinot grigio 2010

87/100 Castello di Spessa Pinot bianco 2010

86/100 Schiopetto Pinot bianco 2010

86/100 Schiopetto Friulano 2010

GRAVE DEL FRIULI DOC

89/100 Le monde Friulano 2010

88/100 Cantina San Martino Braida Santa Cecilia 2010

87/100 Tenute Tomasella Le Bastie bianco 2006

86/100 Antonutti Vis Terrae 2010

85/100 Le monde Pinot grigio 2010

85/100 Le monde Chardonnay 2010VENEZIA GIULIA IGT

91/100 La Bellanotte Pinot grigio 'Conte Lucio' ramato 2009

89/100 Tenuta Luisa Eddi Desiderirum I Ferretti 2010

88/100 Bastianich Vespa bianco 2009

86/100 Schiopetto Blanc des rosis 2010



humidity during the entire year, producing late-ripening in grapes

and later harvest dates. In 2010, quality was defined in the trade-

off faced by the Friulan producers, namely choosing between

leaving grapes to ripen for a few extra days despite the high level

of humidity and the risk of disease, and harvesting “on time” to

ensure the grapes’ health, even if not quite fully ripened.

Chardonnay buds quite early, putting the coolest vineyards at risk

from spring frosts. Picking time is crucial for Chardonnay and also

Friulano grapes because they can quickly lose their acidity in

the latter stages of ripening. However, Friulano - the most popu-

lar and widely planted white grape variety in Friuli - is a late-bud-

ding variety usually used to produce staple wines of the region.

This does not mean that the 2010 vintage produced only simple,

easy-drinking Friulano wines destined for trattorias and pizzerias,

but it does not help this regional flagship white wine, which is

consumed largely in Friuli, to be more widely available and

appreciated. Old vintages are hard to come by: only the vintage

following the last harvest is available, which seems strange to

French wine lovers who are used to sipping old Burgundy

Chardonnays. Our tastings show us that Friulano assumes a good

complexity on the nose and palate after two to three years of

ageing. Hopefully, some producers such as Schiopetto and

Giancarlo Gallo have left their Friulano, Chardonnay and

Sauvignon wines to age in the cellar so as to reveal the true

excellence of Friuli wines over the last few decades. Excellence,

rigour and confidence in the ageing ability of wines made only

with local grapes like Friulano (ex-Tocai) will open the door to a

better understanding of the style and personality of each winemaker;

this confidence is shared by both long-term and emerging

producers such as Schiopetto, Lis Neris and Venica & Venica.

Purity - compared to the blending of local grapes with recent and

old vintages - reveals the ageing potential of local grapes, traditionally

vinified for family consumption. It gives the opportunity to

winegrowers to place their wines on the international and

diversified fine wine market. Each producer is able to tell his

personal story through their “niche” fine wines and thus stand

out, thanks to their own philosophy and their personal interpretation

of nature.

Schiopetto usually produces classic, elegant, fruit-driven wines

which are considered to be a high-end quality reference for Friulan

whites, while Lis Neris gives a clear idea of what perfectionism can

mean in Friuli, while Gallo at Vie di Romans is all about innovation

and a distinct personality. Schiopetto Friulano 2010 has a bright

lemon robe; the nose reveals beeswax and cream with pleasant

fresh flower hints and wild mint. The palate is open and fresh,

with notes of dried almonds, vegetal hints and an elegant finish in

pure Schiopetto style (86/100). Schiopetto Friulano 2006

THE SCHIOPETTO FAMILY RESPECTS MARIO SCHIOPETTO'S INTERPRETATION OF FRIULI TERROIR

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COVER STORY

impressed us and illustrated just how well this wine can age. Its

gold colour with amber hints and fruit-driven nose of fresh yellow

plums, fruity syrup, honey and blackcurrant leaf demonstrates

how Friulano develops different layers, from floral to vegetal,

evolving into a salty tang on the palate, dry and fresh, austere,

fruity and creamy. As expected, the finish was elegant and pleasant,

and this 2006 boasted a certain freshness: our conclusion was that

aged Friulano can be a good alternative to old Friulan Sauvignon.

In Isonzo, our attention was caught by the Ferlat Silvano estate

and their 2010 Fruilano vintage, with its bright, clear lemon robe

with gold hints. The nose of candied fruit also has some herbaceous

and liquorice aromas. The palate is creamy, fresh and fruit-driven.

This is a well-balanced wine with good length, that could match with

elegant Italian cuisine (91/100). Ferlat's exceptional interpretation of

the complex 2010 vintage leads us to hope that future vintages will

be equally exciting.

Tasting the red and white wines of Roncsorelli also impressed us:particularly appreciated was the outstanding Friulano ofRoncsorelli Ottolustri 2009, from the well-known Colli Orientaliarea. With a golden robe and complex nose, it combines layers ofdried fruit, honey, beeswax and smoky aromas; the palate openswith rigorous, elegant fruitiness, well-delineated and very long,characterised by a pleasant finish of fresh almond milk (93/100).

Blended with other grape varieties such as Renan Riesling andFriulano, Malvasia Istriana (not to be confused with otherMalvasia varieties cultivated for example in Lazio) usually bringsfreshness and elegance to wines, just as Chardonnay is blendedwith Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to make Champagne.

Mario Schiopetto Bianco 2006 (a blend of Malvasia, Riesling andFriulano) has a golden colour and an intense nose opening on

vegetal, smoky and stony aromas, with fruit. The palate is dry,fresh, vegetal and creamy, almost oily. The wine is well balancedand the finish is elegant. Conversely, the older vintage of MarioSchiopetto Bianco 2004 has a bright gold robe, a smoky,concentrated and intense nose, with herbal hints and earthy,tobacco-like aromas. The palate is dry, silky and still fresh, combininghoney and cream with an elegant finish. The outstanding blendedwines of Vie di Romans, namely Fior di Uis 1996 (93/100) andFior di Uis 1992 (95/100), also used Malvasia grapes (along withFriulano and Riesling) for freshness, elegance and longevity, raisingseveral questions: why not vinify Malvasia Istriana alone? Is it notdistinctive enough, like Ribolla Gialla or Pinot Blanc? Does blendingof indigenous grape varieties give the best interpretation of territory?Is it really necessary to look for the perfect expression of eachsingle grape through an ideal blending?

On the one hand, blending lends wine an international reference,making it easy to compare with other blended wines, even if madewith different indigenous grape varieties, while purity bears witnessto terroir and local wine-making. Malvasia is fresh, elegant andvibrant, and in some case, salty. We did not have the opportunityto taste old vintages of Malvasia Istriana; we predict that theParovel Malvasia will give us food for thought in future vintages.Malvasia Parovel 2010 was fascinating: it had a bright lemon robe,an open, complex nose of very ripe tropical fruit and fresh flowers.The palate was well-structured and fresh, with hints of cream andcitrus fruit. We liked the great length and clean finish of thisharmonious wine (90/100).

Pinot Grigio is Italy's flagship variety. Often found in Veneto andconfused with the excellent Friulan (usually grown in the ColliOrientali and Isonzo areas), when well-made, this can be bestdescribed as a fresh, elegant and complex fine white wine: LisNeris and La Bella Notte are quality names. Lis Neris Pinot Grigio2009 from Isonzo shows a bright lemon colour with golden hintsand an elegant, persistent nose of flint and kerosene, matched

THE OWNERS OF PAROVEL ESTATE WORKWITH INDIGENOUS GRAPE VARIETIES

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THE PAROVEL CELLAR LOCATED IN THECARSO AREA AT THE SLOVENIAN BORDER

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THE MASUT FAMILY PRODUCES EXCELLENT FRIULAN DRY WHITE WINES WITH A BURGUNDIAN

INTERPRETATION OF CHARDONNAY

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with honey aromas. The palate is silky, fine-grained and character-

ized by an expressive freshness; it is well-defined and balanced

with hints of fruit and cream. This is a truly personal interpreta-

tion of Pinot Grigio puts more neutral, lower-priced styles in the

shade (92/100). Another Pinot Grigrio favourite is La Bella Notte Pinot

Grigio 2009, IGT Venezie (a second range appellation, not to be con-

fused with the DOC appellation). Its amber colour is distinctive,

as are the sherry aromas with kerosene, dried fruit and “rancio”

hints. The palate is original and reminds one of the Italian

“passito” wines with their dry to off-dry style. It ends on a pleas-

ant note of dried herbs and tobacco (91/100).

To finish, we must not forget the excellent expression of Friulan

Sauvignon that we had the pleasure of discovering at the unique Vie

di Romans Chardonnay vintage tasting. Sauvignon was planted

here more than a century ago. It develops local expressions, which

can in some ways (think aromatic intensity and minerality) be

compared with Loire wines such as Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé

and Sancerre. On the nose and palate, we were surprised by the

intensity of vegetal aromas and flavours, in particular blackcurrant

and tomato leaf. Mineral aromas are in some cases pronounced

and well-integrated in a velvety texture. Fruit is dried and not

predominant, except for Masut da Rive and Pizzulin Sauvignon

2010 (89/100 and 90/100 respectively). The almond finish is typical

of Friulan, and can also be found in non-Sauvignon white wines.

Terroir, and particularly the “ponca” soil typical to the eastern

hills of Friuli could explain the intensity and minerality perceived

in these wines. We identified mineral aromas and notes of petrol,

kerosene, smoke, stone and steel.

Our top picks are: Sauvignon Conte d’Attimis Maniago 2010

(92/100) from Colli Orientali and Lis Neris Picol 2010 from

Isonzo (90/100). Old vintages of Sauvignon Vie di Romans (1995

and 1996) are currently the best expressions now present in Friuli,

with ratings of 95/100 and 92/100 respectively, because of its over-

ripe style. Schiopetto's Sauvignon 2010 is aromatic and vegetal,

with great length, freshness and mineral hints (90/100). The style

is austere yet vibrant. The Sauvignon 2006 boasts a bright golden

hue; the nose is intense, with aromas of wet wool, melon, mint,

eucalyptus and nettle. The palate is open and structured, dry and

mineral. Of all the vintages, Sauvignon Schiopetto remains a fruit-

driven wine with a strong vegetal taste, impressive length, and a

mineral (almost steely), quasi-tannic character.

As we come to the end of this exciting adventure in Italy, we wouldconclude that of all the Italian white wines encountered duringour tastings (and considering the research and innovation interms of old Chardonnay wines carried out by winemakerGiancarlo Gallo of Vie di Romans), Vie di Romans Chardonnay1989 is our favourite, showing exemplary balance, complexity,ripeness, freshness and harmony (96/100). Our three Italianwhite “desert island” wines would be: Vie di Romans Chardonnay1989 (from Friuli), La Scolca d’Antan 2000 (from Piedmont)and San Domenico Greco di Tufo 2010 (from Campania). �

LIS NERIS OWNER ALVARO PECORARI MAKES A RANGE OFFRIULAN FINE WINES IN THE ISONZO AREA, REFLECTING

HIS PASSION FOR RIGOR AND PERFECTIONISM


COVER STORY

It is worth taking a look at the astonishing range of white wines coveringthe whole country, from north to south, east to west.

Amazing Spanish whites in a red country

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BY DIEGO BONNEL

NOW THE SPANISH WHITE WINE OFFERING IS HUGE, VARIED AND ATTRACTIVE

OUR PICKS

Amazing Spanish whites in a red country


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PREFER SOMETHING MORE POWERFUL? TRY THE ROUND, MOUTH-FILLING

LOURO DO BOLO

I n a country where red wine is king and the Tempranillo

grape is the most well-known and respected variety, it was

not uncommon to hear people comment that “the best

white wine is a red one.” However, things have greatly changed in

the last twenty years or so. Now the white wine offering is huge,

varied and attractive. You can find whites of all styles, from the

Mediterranean (like the excellent Milmanda of Torres), to the

maritime (just taste the bewitching San Amaro and you will know

why Rias Baixas is one of the most suitable areas in Spain for the

production of white wines), not to mention the unique old whites

of Viura and Malvasía from Viña Tondonia, or the very special

Airén from La Mancha, made without any sulfites.

With or without oak, every single profile can be found. Try the

fresh, crisp and citrusy Txomin Etxaniz from the Basque country

in northern Spain, as an appetizer or with a simple, white, grilled

fish; if you prefer something more powerful, you

might turn to the round, delicately oaky,

mouth filling and lingering Louro do Bolo

made from the recently rediscovered

Godello grape or to the vibrant Verdejo

grape from Belondrade y Lurtón, featuring

a good balance between oak and fruit.

Both are the perfect companions for

white meat with a creamy sauce,

or a vol-au-vent with a

béchamel and mush-

room filling.

Now it is your turn to wander

around and meet all thewonderful people behind

all these great wines!

WINE APPELLATION SCORES

San Amaro 2010 Rias Baixas 96/100

Louro do Bolo 2010 Valdeorras 95/100

Clos Nelin 2007 Priorat DOC 95/100

Belondrade y Lurtón 2010 Rueda 94/100

De Saa 2007 Rias Baixas 94/100

Txomin Etxaniz 2010 Txakoli de Getaria 93/100

As Sortes 2009 Valdeorras 93/100

Equipo Navazos Nieeport 2010 Table wine 92/100

Las Amedias 2010 Rueda 92/100

Albillo de Bernabeleva 2007 Vinos de Madrid 92/100

Mengoba 2008 Bierzo 92/100

El Patio Airén 2009 Mancha 91/100

Milmanda 2009 Torres Conca de Barberá 90/100

Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 1991 Rioja DOC 90/100

Quinta Apolonia 2009 Rueda 90/100

There are quality white wines in manywine regions. Over the next few pages,we pay them a glowing tribute. Thescores they achieve are a perfectreflection of the superlative quality ofthe different terroirs and the care withwhich winegrowers make them.


RATED WINES

White wines score top marksfor diversity

We have decided to divide the wines into twocategories: single varietals and blends. The firstgroup boasts prominent names that we will

review. First and foremost is Alsace, which offers a broadspectrum of varieties from which three leading names emerge:Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer.

When managed correctly, Riesling probably produces some ofthe finest dry white wines in the world. On highlyidiosyncratic sites like Rangen in Thann, southern Alsace, orSchoenenbourg in Riquewihr, it yields gems displayingcomplexity and aromas of candied lemon, fresh mushroom,gunflint… and the kind of acidity that imparts great longevity.

Pinot gris, which is naturally rich, also counterbalances thisopulence with evident acidity. This introduces a freshnessthat showcases crisp aromas of plum and apricot, oftencoupled with a faint exotic touch.

Gewurztraminer has a more deliberately exotic streak with itsfragrances of rose petal, lychee, mango and passion fruit.Again, residual sugar plays an important part provided theprerequisite acidity is present and promotes the developmentof aromatic complexity. The resultant wines can be awesome.

In Burgundy, Chardonnay holds prBeaune is home to the best with the Montrachet family(Puligny, Chassagne…) though also Meursault. In thisinstance, limestone imparts richness, complexity, harmonyand finesse to the wines. Aromas recall white flowers,pastries, toast, honey, almond, hazelnut… The wines boasthuge ageability, further augmenting their aromaticspectrum. We recently tasted an absolutely remarkable 1988Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles by Olivier Leflaive.

The Loire Valley offers up two different faces, namelySauvignon and Chenin. Sauvignon is grown in the easternpart, with Sancerre, Ménetou-Salon and Pouilly-Fumé.Sancerre and Ménetou-Salon display delightful character,they are floral and fruity and more often than not recallwhite flowers and citrus fruits, though they can also showcomplexity. Pouilly-Fumé is a case apart with its soils oflimestone, marl and silica clay which give the blanc fumé -the local name for Sauvignon - a mineral personality andpronounced dry character yet at the same time finesse.

Further west, in Touraine and the Saumur region, Chenin is backin the saddle. This extraordinary grape variety is extremelyversatile, yielding dry whites, medium-dry, sweet, noble rot andeven sparkling wines. Its primary characteristic is its longevity.Many a time at wineries - particularly in Vouvray - we have tastedwines over a hundred years old that are still in stunning shape.They then achieve incredible complexity which ranks themamongst the best in the world.

In the Rhône valley, the exception that proves the rule isViognier. Harvested on granite terraces overlooking theRhone, the wines display incredible aromatic personalitymarked by exotic fruits and unashamed opulence.

BLENDED WINESMoving on to blends, Bordeaux, despite being home to redwines, also produces some superlative quality dry whites inPessac-Léognan and Graves. The blend comprisesSauvignon, Semillion and Muscadelle which complementeach other extremely well, each adding their own qualitiesof acidity, fat and exotic aromas. Some blends that are agedor even vinted in oak achieve extra complexity. They aremainly drink-young wines though (3-5 years on average) astheir aromas tend to fade quickly. No article would becomplete without a mention for noble-rot sweet wines fromSauternes. These world-famous wines are drawn from thesame varietal blend which develops botrytis due to the mistrising from the tiny river Ciron.

A final word for the Rhône valley where a clutch ofappellations stand out from the rest. These includeHermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. A fusion ofRoussanne and Marsanne grapes produce extremely purewines with delicious aromas of almond and white peach.Finally, Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers astounding blendedwhites (Clairette, Picpoul, Roussanne, Bourboulenc andPicardan) that are made in boutique quantities yet areabsolutely delicious. Among them are often real gems interms of finesse and complexity.

Gilbert & Gaillard


RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE

OUR PICKS

ALSACE

Alsace Gewürztraminer A.C.

91/100 Domaine Sipp Mack Lucie Marie -

Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 22.80 €

91/100 Domaine Sipp Mack Lucie Marie -


90/100 Scherb Bernard et Fils


Alsace Grand Cru Gewürztraminer A.C.

92/100 Domaine Charles Sparr Sporen 2009 15.00 €

91/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -

Vieilles Vignes 2009 17.50 €

90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker -


90/100 Philippe Gocker Mandelberg 2009 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Goldert 2009 n/a

90/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Hengst 2009 n/a

90/100 Domaine Horcher Mandelberg 2009 11.80 €

Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C.

94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg -

Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.10 €

90/100 Domaine Charles Sparr Mambourg 2008 13.00 €

Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C.

95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann

Kanzlerberg 2006 17.50 €

95/100 Domaine Seppi Landmann Zinnkoepflé -


92/100 Cave Vinicole du Vieil Armand


91/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Steinert 2009 13.50 €

91/100 Domaine André Ehrhart & fils

Steingrubler 2008 9.30 €

91/100 Kuentz-Bas Alsace Pfersigberg -

Trois Châteaux 2008 18.10 €

91/100 Domaine Jean Sipp Kirchberg

de Ribeauvillé 2008 16.00 €

90/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -


90/100 Domaine Agapé Schoenenbourg 2009 16.40 €

90/100 Philippe Gocker Rosacker 2007 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Charles Sparr

Schoenenbourg 2009 14.00 €

90/100 Domaine Sipp Mack Rosacker 2008 16.60 €

Alsace Pinot Gris A.C.

93/100 Domaine Seppi Landmann

Vallée Noble 2001 18.00 €

91/100 Domaine Jean Sipp

Clos Ribeaupierre 2003 25.00 €

90/100 Domaine André Blanck et ses Fils Cuvée Baptiste -


90/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Letzenberg 2008 16.50 €


Sélection de Grains Nobles - 50 cl 2008 23.00 €

Alsace Riesling A.C.

92/100 Philippe Gocker




90/100 Maison Humbrecht Prestige 2007 10.60 €

Here are the scores for the best French white wines we tasted in 2011.

You will find all of our 2011 tasting notes on our website:



BORDEAUX

Barsac A.C.

98/100 Château Doisy Védrines Vintage 2010 n/a

94/100 Château Myrat Vintage 2010 n/a

Bordeaux A.C.

90/100 Château de Reignac Vintage 2009 18.00 €

Cadillac A.C.

91/100 Château Suau Vintage 2010 n/a

Pessac-Léognan A.C.

99/100 Domaine de Chevalier Vintage 2010 n/a

98/100 Château Carbonnieux Vintage 2010 n/a

97/100 Château de Fieuzal Vintage 2010 n/a

95/100 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte Vintage 2010 n/a

94/100 Château Malartic-Lagravière

Vintage 2008 40.00 €

93/100 Château Olivier Vintage 2010 n/a

93/100 Château Haut-Brion Vintage 2010 n/a

93/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

Vintage 2009 43.00 €

92/100 Château Papae Clément Vintage 2010 n/a

92/100 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Vintage 2010 n/a

92/100 Château Latour Martillac Vintage 2010 n/a

91/100 Château Le Sartre Vintage 2010 16.50 €

91/100 Château Olivier Vintage 2009 31.00 €

91/100 Château Malartic-Lagravière Vintage 2010 n/a

91/100 Château Bouscaut Vintage 2010 n/a

91/100 Château Couhins Vintage 2010 n/a

90/100 Château de France Vintage 2010 21.10 €90/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

Vintage 2010 41.00 €

90/100 Château Couhins Lurton Vintage 2010 n/a

90/100 Château Olivier Vintage 2009 n/a


Sauternes A.C.

99/100 Château Rabaud-Promis Vintage 2010 n/a

97/100 Château d'Yquem Vintage 2010 n/a

96/100 Château Doisy-Daëne Vintage 2010 n/a

96/100 Château Lamothe-Guignard Vintage 2010 n/a

96/100 Château Romer Vintage 2010 n/a

95/100 Château d'Arche Vintage 2010 n/a

94/100 Château Caillou Vintage 2010 n/a

94/100 Château Coutet Vintage 2010 n/a

94/100 Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2007 46.00 €

93/100 Château Filhot Vintage 2009 30.00 €

93/100 Château Roumieu Lacoste

Cuvée André 2007 20.00 €

93/100 Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2010 n/a

93/100 Château Filhot Vintage 2010 n/a

92/100 Château Filhot Vintage 2008 24.00 €

92/100 Château Lamothe Despujols Vintage 2008 n/a

92/100 Château de Malle Vintage 2010 n/a

92/100 Château Guiraud Vintage 2010 n/a

92/100 Château Broustet Vintage 2010 n/a

91/100 Château Bastor Lamontagne

Vintage 2009 21.00 €

91/100 Château Haut-Bergeron Vintage 2009 24.00 €

91/100 Château Rayne Vigneau Vintage 2010 n/a

90/100 Château Caillou Vintage 2008 35.00 €

90/100 Duval & Blanchet Les Notes Dorées 2009 15.00 €

90/100 Château Sigalas Rabaud Vintage 2010 n/a

90/100 Château Bérénice Vintage 2008 17.50 €

BURGUNDY Chablis Grand Cru A.C.

95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Les Clos -

Clos des Hospices dans les Clos 2009 28.00 €

95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils

Les Clos 2009 24.00 €

93/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils

Valmur 2009 24.00 €

93/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Valmur 2009 25.00 €


PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C.Château Le Sartre 2010Pale yellow. Very enticing noseof ripe citrus fruits (lime) andmild spices. On the palate,wonderful harmony betweenfat, richness and freshness. More of the samefresh, light aromatics that linger. A good winefor outstanding food.

91/100

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

92/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Vaudésir -


92/100 Garnier et Fils Vaudésir 2008 30.00 €

92/100 Garnier et Fils Les Clos 2008 30.00 €

Chablis Premier Cru A.C.

91/100 Domaine du Chardonnay

Montée de Tonnerre 2010 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine de Guette Soleil Vosgros -

Fûts de chêne 2010 14.50 €

90/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Fourchaume 2010 n/a

90/100 Domaine du Chardonnay Vosgros 2009 12.50 €


Mont de Milieu 2009 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Montée de Tonnerre -


90/100 Simonnet-Febvre Vaillons 2009 14.75 €

90/100 Simonnet-Febvre Mont de Milieu 2009 15.80 €

90/100 Domaine Christian Moreau

Père et Fils Vaillon 2009 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy 2008 11.95 €

90/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils


90/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Beauroy 2009 14.00 €

90/100 Domaine de Guette Soleil Vosgros -

Fûts de chêne 2009 14.50 €

Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.

94/100 Simonnet-Febvre Les Clos 2008 34.95 €

Chassagne-Montrachet A.C.

92/100 Domaine Du Duc De Magenta

Marquis De Macmahon

1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2008 48.00 €

90/100 Alex Gambal 1er Cru La Maltroie 2009 35.00 €

Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru A.C.

96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 88.00 €

95/100 Maison Jessiaume Vintage 2008 59.00 €

94/100 Domaine Denis Père et Fils Vintage 2009 42.00 €

Meursault A.C.

98/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche Genévrières

1er Cru 2009 55.00 €



96/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche

1er Cru Genévrières 2010 60.00 €

96/100 Domaine Guy Bocard 1er Cru

Charmes 2008 35.00 €

94/100 Domaine Marc Rougeot 1er Cru

Charmes 2009 35.00 €

93/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Les Narvaux 2008 28.00 €


Les Grands Charrons 2010 30.00 €

92/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Limozin 2008 28.00 €



90/100 Domaine Brigitte Berthelemot

Les Tillets 2010 24.00 €

90/100 Domaine Marc Rougeot Monatine 2009 19.00 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Bocard



Les Tillets 2009 24.00 €

Meursault-Blagny A.C.

96/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche 1er Cru

La Pièce sous Bois 2009 46.00 €

Montagny A.C.

90/100 Château de la Saule 1er Cru

Les Burnins 2009 13.50 €

Pouilly-Fuissé A.C.

92/100 Domaine Auvigue

Cuvée Hors Classe 2010 17.00 €

91/100 Domaine Thierry Drouin En Buland 2009 14.00 €

91/100 Domaine Roger Luquet

Vieilles Vignes 2009 1480 €

91/100 Château de Pouilly "Cuvée 1551" 2008 18.00 €

90/100 Domaine La Source des Fées

Cep Eternel 2009 18.80 €

90/100 Domaine Sophie Cinier Vers Cras 2008 18.50 €

90/100 Domaine Pierre Desroches Vintage 2009 10.40 €



LOIRE VALLEY

Coteaux de l'Aubance A.C.

96/100 Domaine de Montgilet

Les Trois Schistes 2009 16.50 €

91/100 Domaine de Haute Perche

Les Fontenelles 2009 14.50 €

Menetou-Salon A.C.

91/100 Domaine de la Tour Saint-Martin

Honorine 2008 18.00 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine A.C.

93/100 Domaines et Châteaux Véronique Gunther-

Chéreau L'Ancestrale 2005 9.50 €

90/100 Domaines et Châteaux

Véronique Gunther-Chéreau Gorges 2005 9.50 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.

93/100 Domaines et Châteaux Véronique Gunther-

Chéreau Comte de Saint-Hubert 2008 8.00 €

Pouilly-Fumé A.C.

93/100 Château de Tracy 101 Rangs 2008 60.00 €

93/100 Philippe Raimbault Les Lumeaux 2010 9.20 €

93/100 Gitton Père & Fils Nebula 2008 18.95 €

92/100 Philippe Raimbault Mosaïque 2010 9.00 €

91/100 Château de Tracy H.D 2008 17.00 €

90/100 Domaine Champeau Silex 2010 10.50 €

90/100 Jean Pabiot et Fils Prestige des

Fines Caillottes 2009 11.90 €

90/100 Domaine Chauveau

Cuvée Sainte Clélie 2009 9.00 €

COTEAUX DE MURVIEL IGPRavanèsLe Renard blanc 2009 Light yellow. Refined, profound noseblending notes of white peach andelegant vanilla-infused, toasted oak.Remarkably full palate with a refined texture supportedby lingering freshness. Fruit is focused and crunchy. A remarkable white wine.

91/100


Puligny-Montrachet A.C.

93/100 Domaine Coudray-Bizot 1er Cru

Les Combettes 2001 52.90 €

92/100 Domaine Henri Prudhon & fils

Les Enseignères 2008 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine Chanzy Les Reuchaux 2009 24.50 €

Rully A.C.

90/100 Domaine Chanzy L'Hermitage 2009 11.50 €

Saint-Aubin A.C.

90/100 Château de Santenay En Vesvau 2009 15.00 €

Saint-Véran A.C.

90/100 Domaine des Poncetys

Le Clos des Poncetys 2010 7.60 €

Vougeot A.C.

93/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru

Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot -

Monopole 2008 59.00 €

91/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie

Clos du Prieuré - Monopole 2009 41.00 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Coteaux de Murviel IGP

91/100 Domaine de Ravanès

Le Renard Blanc Oméga 2009 46.00 €

Languedoc A.O.P.

91/100 Château Capion Le Colombier 2010 12.00 €

Saint-Chinian A.C.

91/100 Cave Les Vins de Roquebrun

Seigneur d'Aupenac 2010 16.70 €


Les Fiefs d'Aupenac 2010 11.65 €

Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 24.00 €

Vin de Pays d'Oc

91/100 Aubai Mema Albion 2010 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Serge Dagueneau & filles

Clos des Chaudoux 2008 18.00 €

Quarts de Chaume A.C.

94/100 Domaine des Baumard Vintage 2008 34.00 €

Sancerre A.C.

92/100 Domaine du Carrou Cuvée "La Jouline" -


92/100 Gitton Père & Fils Galinot 2008 20.75 €

91/100 Daniel Chotard Cuvée Marcel Henri 2009 11.80 €

91/100 Domaine Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy

Les Anges Lots 2009 14.00 €

91/100 Philippe Raimbault Les Chasseignes 200911.60 €

91/100 Gitton Père & Fils Vigne du Larrey 2010 19.75 €

90/100 Gitton Père & Fils

Les Herses - Silex 2009 14.25 €

90/100 Dionysia Vin des Héros 2010 n/a

90/100 Michel Vattan Cuvée Argile 2009 8.00 €

Savennières A.C.

95/100 Loïc Mahé Sectilis Terra 2009 45.00 €

92/100 Domaine FL Chamboureau 2008 15.60 €

91/100 Domaine du Closel

Les Caillardières 2004 14.30 €

90/100 Domaine du Closel

Clos du Papillon 2007 24.00 €

90/100 Loïc Mahé Equilibre 2009 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2009 12.00 €

Touraine A.C.

90/100 Famille Gaillard Sauvignon 2010 n/a

90/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay

Sauvignon blanc 2010 5.50 €

90/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay La Voute 2010 6.50 €

PROVENCE

Bandol A.C.

90/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 15.00 €

Côtes de Provence A.C.

90/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2010 15.50 €

90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2009 17.00 €

90/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2009 15.30 €

RHONE VALLEY

Châteauneuf-du-Pape A.C.

92/100 Château de la Gardine Vintage 2009 29.00 €



91/100 Château Husson

Les Saintes Vierges 2010 18.90 €

91/100 Château Simian

La Font d'Hippolyte 2008 26.00 €

91/100 Domaine de Nalys Eicelènci 2009 30.00 €

Condrieu A.C.

93/100 Gilles Flacher Les Rouelles 2010 26.00 €

92/100 Domaine Niero Les Ravines 2009 26.00 €

90/100 Domaine Boissonnet Vintage 2009 23.00 €

SOUTH-WEST

Haut-Montravel A.C.

95/100 Puy-Servain Terrement - 50cl 2007 12.75 €

95/100 Château Pique-Sègue

Elevé en fûts de chêne 2001 13.90 €

93/100 Puy-Servain Terremont 2007 18.90 €

Jurançon A.C.

95/100 Domaine Bru-Baché L'Eminence 2006 52.00 €

91/100 Domaine Bru-Baché

La Quintessence 2008 22.00 €

Monbazillac A.C.

92/100 Château Bélingard

Blanche de Bosredon 2007 27.00 €

90/100 Château Bélingard

Blanche de Bosredon 2007 24.00 €

Pacherenc du Vic Bilh A.C.

93/100 Château Barréjat

Cuvée de la Passion - 50 cl 2009 6.90 €

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec A.C.

91/100 Vignobles Brumont Vintage 2008 n/a

Vin de Pays de Lot et Garonne

90/100 Château Lagrézette Malbec 2010 25.00 €

CONDRIEU A.C. Domaine Gilles FlacherLes Rouelles 2010Yellow-gold. Distinctive nosewith notes of white fruits,almond and mild spices. The palate is fresh, intense andharmonious, flirting with exotic aromas. Acharacteristic, crunchy and long wine. Pair with refinedfoods (white truffle, spiny lobster).

93/100


In 2001, Philippe Austruy, a prominentindustrialist and passionate wineenthusiast decided to take up a newchallenge: to turn the spotlight back onChâteau Peyrassol, a 700-hectareKnights Templar estate with 80 hectaresunder vine in the heart of the vineyardsof Provence, with a turbulent historydating back eight centuries.

Thus began the great adventure. All the buildings wererenovated in keeping with the original architecture, newplots were planted to vines, the forests were maintained,

the “restanques” or dry stone walls were restored, the wineryrevamped to make room for both modern and traditionalequipment, the olive groves were extended, the vineyardreplanted, and the oils and wines constantly reviewed to allowtheir true sense of place to be reasserted.

To ensure the project is successful, Philippe Austruy decides tomake this a family affair: with his nephew Alban Cacaret who hetasks with the management of the estate, and his sister who runs

the “Un Jour à Peyrassol”franchise, they make up aclose-knit team chargedw i t h c o m p l e t i n g athorough overhaul of theproperty. In just a few years, theachievements are colossal.Pur su ing the va r iou sprojects at the same timeis a juggling act and tohelp them through theupheaval in terms of winegrowing, wine making

ADVERTORIAL


and oil producing, the team recruits the technical assistance of apartner capable of intervening every step of the way, theProvence agronomic consultancy (CAP).

A TOP-FLIGHT ROSÉRosé is still the estate’s flagship wine and is the fruit of a constantquest for freshness and delicateness. The framework of ChâteauPeyrassol wines always centres on balance, combining freshnessand complexity against a finely etched backdrop. The estate alsooffers a range of powerful and charming reds with an assertivecharacter that bear the unmistakable hallmark of their terroir,and ripe, lively whites with the typical complexity of Provence.

Ten years into this new adventure, the estate continues its questfor excel lence. The extremely dynamic sales s t rategyimplemented by Alban Cacaret ensures the highest possiblereturn for the wines both at home and abroad. It constantlydrives the estate in a dynamic upward spiral with receptions,guest accommodation and eatery, organic wine growing, kitchengarden, constantly upgraded wines…

It is an exciting and varied adventure that has continued tonurture Philippe Austruy’s initial passion. His commitment hasbrought him a haven of peace where he takes pleasure indecompressing with a glass of the wine that he has breathed newlife into… �

Château Peyrassol: A decadeof adventure underpinnedby eight centuries of history

Château PeyrassolRN7 - 83340 Flassans sur Issole - France

Tel. +33 494 69 71 02 - Fax +33 494 59 69 23www.peyrassol.com

Cabinet d’Agronomie Provençale (CAP consultancy)Route des Vins sur Caramy - 83170 Brignoles - France

www.cabagronomie.fr

THE BARRELCELLAR

ALBAN CACARETAND PIERREGUÉRIN FROMTHE PROVENCEAGRONOMICCONSULTANCY(CAP)

RATED WINES 86-89/100


ALSACE

Alsace Gewürztraminer A.C.

89/100 Cave de Beblenheim


89/100 Frey-Sohler Vendanges Tardives 2007 23.80 €

89/100 Edmond Rentz Burg 2009 10.10 €

89/100 Haegelin Bernard Bollenberg 2009 7.30 €

89/100 Domaine Agapé


89/100 Maison Humbrecht

Vendange Tardive 2007 24.70 €

89/100 Domaine Muller Koeberle

Cuvée Ste Cécile 2009 9.00 €

88/100 Domaine Charles Sparr Vintage 2010 9.00 €

88/100 Château d'Orschwihr Bollenberg 2010 8.50 €

88/100 Vignobles des 2 Lunes Amélie 2009 13.00 €

86/100 Xavier Muller Vintage 2009 6.80 €


89/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Eichberg -


88/100 Bestheim & Châteaux Marckrain 2009 9.95 €

88/100 Domaine André Ehrhart & fils Hengst 2009 9.70 €

Alsace Grand Cru Muscat A.C.

89/100 Kuentz-Bas Alsace Pfersigberg - Cuvée Caroline -

Vendange Tardive 50 cl 2008 25.50 €


88/100 Mauler Jean-Paul Mandelberg 2010 11.50 €


89/100 Robert Faller et Fils Geisberg 2008 22.00 €

89/100 Domaine André Blanck et ses Fils

Schlossberg 2010 9.50 €

88/100 Clos des Terres Brunes Mandelberg 2009 10.50 €

88/100 Domaine Paul Spannagel et Fils

Wineck Schlossberg 2008 12.00 €

87/100 Domaine des Marronniers

Kastelberg 2009 18.10 €

87/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker 2007 9.20 €

Alsace Klevener de Heiligenstein A.C.

88/100 Domaine Charles Wantz Vintage 2006

Alsace pinot gris A.C. 9.00 €

89/100 Cave Vinicole du Vieil Armand


89/100 Domaine Horcher


89/100 Domaine Bott Frères

Vendange Tardive 2007 27.60 €

88/100 Charles Schleret Vintage 2007 9.90 €

88/100 Domaine Charles Fahrer Jeanne 2010 7.00 €

87/100 Domaine Materne Haegelin et filles

Cuvée Elise 2009 9.50 €

87/100 Domaine Aiméstentz Rosenberg 2010 7.70 €

87/100 Albert Ziegler Cuvée Bollenberg 2010 8.25 €

87/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Tradition 2009

87/100 Frey Charles et Dominique

Cuvée de l'Ours 2010 7.90 €

86/100 Klein Georges et Fils Vintage 2010 5.90 €

Alsace Riesling A.C.

89/100 Lucien Albrecht Clos Schild 2005 2945 €

OUR PICKS

Here is our selection of excellent French white wines that receivedscores between 86 and 89 out of 100, in addition to the top

white wines scoring 90/100 or more. You can find all of our 2011 tasting notes on our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com



89/100 Jean-Louis Schoepfer Vintage 2009 5.20 €

88/100 Domaine Jean Sipp Vieilles Vignes 2008 9.50 €

87/100 Vins Fahrer Sylvie Silberberg 2010 5.90 €

86/100 Domaine Sipp Mack Vieilles Vignes 2009 8.20 €

BORDEAUX

Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux A.C.

86/100 Château Les Bertrands Cuvee Prestige -


86/100 Château Berthenon Vintage 2010 4.85 €

86/100 Château Haut-Colombier Vintage 2010 7.50 €

Bordeaux A.C.

87/100 Château Loudenne Vintage 2009 14.00 €

86/100 Mayne d’Olivet Vintage 2009 10.00 €

86/100 Château Thieuley Courselle Vintage 2009 5.50 €

86/100 Château Clos Chaumont Vintage 2010 15.00 €

86/100 Château Belle Garde Vintage 2010 435 €

Cadillac A.C.

87/100 Château des Mille Anges 50 cl 2005 9.00 €

Cérons A.C.

88/100 Château Cérons Vintage 2005 18.00 €

Entre-Deux-Mers A.C.

88/100 Château La Lande de Taleyran

Vintage 2010 5.50 €

Entre-Deux-Mers Haut-Bénauge A.C.

88/100 Château Haut-Mallet Vintage 2009 7.50 €

Graves A.C.

89/100 Château Respide Callipyge 2009 10.50

88/100 Château Clos Floridène


86/100 Château Ferrande Vintage 2010 12.00 €

86/100 Château du Seuil Vintage 2010 11.00 €

Loupiac A.C.

88/100 Clos Jean Vintage 2008 10.00 €

87/100 Château du Cros Vintage 2008 14.80 €


88/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2009 17.00 €


88/100 Château de France Vintage 2009 20.10 €

88/100 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Vintage 2010 n/a

Sauternes A.C.

89/100 Château Caillou Vintage 2008 23.00 €

88/100 Château Roumieu Lacoste Vintage 2007 18.00 €

87/100 Château Cantegril Vintage 2008 17.65 €

BURGUNDY

Beaune A.C.


Longbois 2009 15.20 €

Bourgogne A.C.

86/100 Domaine Albert Grivault Vintage 2009 10.00 €

Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise A.C.

86/100 Domaine Ferrey Montangerand

Cuvée 3 Générations 2009 7.00 €

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune A.C.

88/100 Château de Santenay Monopole 2009 9.90 €

Chablis A.C.

89/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils


89/100 Garnier et Fils Grains Dorés 2007 12.00 €

88/100 Domaine Goisot Anne et Arnaud

Vintage 2009 7.50 €

87/100 Roland Lavantureux Vieilles Vignes 2009 9.00 €

Chablis Grand Cru A.C.

89/100 Domaine Servin Bougros 2008 28.00 €

89/100 Domaine Christian Moreau

Père et Fils Vaudésir 2009 24.50 €



Montmains 2009 13.00 €

89/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Beauroy 2010 n/a

89/100 Domaine Vocoret & fils


89/100 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy 2010 11.95 €

89/100 Domaine de la Meulière


89/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils

Montmains 2009 12.00 €

89/100 Domaine du Château de Fleys




88/100 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys 2002 23.00 €

88/100 Isabelle et Denis Pommier Beauroy 2007 12.80 €

88/100 Domaine de Guette Soleil Vosgros 2009 10.50 €

87/100 Raoul Gautherin & fils Vaillons 2009 12.00 €

Fixin A.C.

88/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair

Clos Marion 2009 20.40 €

Mâcon-Chardonnay A.C.

86/100 Château de Messey Les Crêts 2010 n/a

Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse A.C.

87/100 Domaine Chêne Cuvée Prestige 2009 7.00 €

Mâcon-Lugny A.C.

87/100 Domaine Saint-Denis Vintage 2009 11.00 €

Mâcon-Villages A.C.

86/100 Domaine des Chenevières


Maranges A.C.

87/100 Domaine Edmond Monnot et Fils

1er Cru La Fussière 2008 13.50 €

Mercurey A.C.

89/100 Domaine Michel Juillot

Les Vignes de Maillonge 2009 14.25 €

Meursault A.C.

89/100 Domaine Vincent Bouzereau Vintage 2009 27.00 €

89/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Vieilles Vignes 2008 20.00 €

89/100 Bourgogne Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter

Réserve Personnelle 2009 35.00 €

88/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche Les Tillets 2010 28.00 €

87/100 Bourgogne Pierre Gruber Vintage 2009 36.00 €

Montagny A.C.

88/100 Domaine Michel-Andréotti 1er Cru 2009 8.90 €

88/100 Château de la Saule 1er Cru

Cuvée spéciale en fût de chêne 2009 12.00 €

Monthélie A.C.

89/100 Domaine Marc Rougeot

Les Toisières 2009 14.00 €

Nuits Saint Georges A.C.

88/100 Lupé-Cholet

Les Terrasses du Château 2009 38.00 €

Pouilly-Fuissé A.C.

89/100 Domaine Auvigue Vieilles Vignes 2010 15.00 €

89/100 Domaine du Chalet Pouilly Vintage 2009 13.90 €

89/100 Domaine Thierry Drouin En Buland 2007 13.00 €

89/100 Château de Pouilly Cuvée "1551" 2007 18.00 €

89/100 Domaine Sophie Cinier "Vers Cras" 2009 18.00 €

88/100 Domaine Roger Luquet Terroir 2009 12.80 €

87/100 Sylvaine & Alain Normand Vintage 2010 10.60 €

87/100 Domaine Château du Clos Vintage 2010 14.50 €

86/100 Cave Coopérative de Chaintré - Les Chevrières -


Pouilly-Loché A.C.

86/100 Cave des Grands Crus Blancs Vintage 2010 7.00 €

Puligny-Montrachet A.C.

88/100 Alex Gambal Vintage 2009 30.00 €

87/100 Domaine Du Duc De Magenta

Marquis De Macmahon Les Houillères 2008 25.00 €

Rully A.C.

89/100 Domaine Chanzy L'Hermitage 2008 11.50 €

89/100 Domaine Michel Briday 1er Cru

Gresigny 2010 15.00 €

89/100 Domaine Gérard Berger-Rive & Fils

Cuvée Louise 2009 n/a

86/100 Domaine Belleville La Crée 2010 n/a

Saint-Aubin A.C.

88/100 Domaine Henri Prudhon & fils 1er Cru

Sur le Sentier du Clou 2009 14.00 €

Saint-Romain A.C.

89/100 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

Sous la Velle 2009 16.00 €

Saint-Véran A.C.

89/100 Domaine des Poncetys Classic 2010 7.60 €

88/100 Domaine La Source des Fées

Terre des Fées 2010 14.60 €

88/100 Domaine Chavet Michel et Fils


87/100 Cave Jean Curial Vintage 2010 7.50 €

Santenay A.C.

87/100 Domaine Ponsard-Chevalier

Les Daumelles 2009 12.00 €

Savigny les Beaune A.C.

87/100 Domaine Bernard Dubois & fils Vintage 200912.50 €



87/100 Château de la Charrière

Les Vermots Dessus 2009 15.00 €

Viré-Clessé A.C.

87/100 Cave de Viré Viré d'Or 2009 13.50 €

87/100 Jean Thévenet Cuvée E.J. Thevenet 2005 18.00 €

CORSICA

Vin de Corse Calvi A.C.

88/100 Clos Culombu Ribbe Rosse 2010 15.00 € Vin de Corse Porto-Vecchio A.C.

86/100 Domaine de Torraccia Vintage 2010

Vin de Pays de l’Ile de Beauté 8.60 €

87/100 UVAL des Vignerons Corsicans Chardonnay -

Vendanges passerillées 8.00 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Corbières A.C.

88/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Lauzina 200911.00 €

Côtes Catalanes I.G.P.

88/100 Château Montana L'Astre Blanc -

Vinifié en fûts de chêne 2010 9.50 €

86/100 Riberach Hypothèse 2009 24.00 €

86/100 Château de Rey OH de Mucat 2010 5.30 €

Côtes de Thongue I.G.P.

88/100 Domaine Les Filles de Septembre

Clos Marine 2009 6.50 €

Hérault I.G.P.

88/100 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vintage 2010 35.00 €

Languedoc A.C.

88/100 Domaine Stella Nova Les Pléiades 2009 13.50 €

86/100 Vignerons du Sommiérois

Les Romanes 2010 4.50 €

Languedoc La Clape A.C.

87/100 Château d'Anglès Vintage 2007 14.90 €

87/100 Domaine des Karantes Vintage 2010 13.00 €

Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet A.C.

87/100 Cave de l'Ormarine Duc de Morny 2010 4.70 € Limoux A.C.

89/100 Domaines Paul Mas Chardonnay -

Limoux 2009 8.50 €

89/100 Domaine Begude L'Etoile 2008 15.00 €

Minervois A.C.

88/100 Château Coupe Roses Vintage 2010 7.80 €

Pays d'Oc I.G.P.

89/100 Domaine d'Aigues Belles

L'Autre Blanc 2009 12.00 €

89/100 Aubai Mema Sauto Ro 2010 9.50 €

87/100 Domaine de la Yole "1771" 2009 12.00 €

87/100 Domaine les Quatre Amours

Cuvée Olga 2010 10.00 €

86/100 Vignobles Alain Maurel Chenin -

Colombard 2010 6.00 €

86/100 Mas Pellier Chardonnay 2010 6.00 € Saint-Chinian A.C.

88/100 Les Coteaux de Berlou

Schisteil "Original" 2010 5.60 €


Col de la Serre 2010 4.50 €

87/100 Cave des Vignerons de St Chinian

Le Secret des Capitelles 2010 6.60 €

Vin de Pays de l’Aude

86/100 Jeff Carrel by Jeff Carrel 2008

Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel 8.95 €

89/100 Domaine de Ravanès

Le Renard Blanc 2006 17.00 €

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

88/100 Château de L'Ou Vintage 2009 17.00 €

Vin de Pays d'Oc

88/100 Domaine de Longueroche Chardonnay-

Elevé en fût de chêne 2009 17.00 €

88/100 Mas des Dames Vintage 2009 n/a

87/100 Les Vins Skalli Réserve - Viognier 2010 6.50 €

VIN DE PAYS D’OCDomaine de Longueroche Oak-aged Chardonnay 2009Deep gold. Suggestions of fresh hazelnut,marzipan and white fruit flesh on thenose. The palate expresses full-onroundness and body. Freshness supportscrisp, focused and flavoursome fruit.Melted oak. A very compelling wine.

88/100




87/100 Château de l'Engarran Cuvée Adélys 2008 13.95 €

86/100 La Grange des Quatre Sous

Le Jeu du Mail 2009 10.00 €

LOIRE VALLEY

Bonnezeaux A.C.

89/100 Domaine de Terrebrune Prestige 2009 17.00 € Cheverny A.C.

86/100 Vignerons de Mont-Près-Chambord

Clos de Nozieux 2010 4.80 €

86/100 Domaine Maison père & fils

Révélation 2010 8.50 €

Coteaux de l'Aubance A.C.

89/100 Domaine de Montgilet Vintage 2009 8.50 €

Coteaux du Giennois A.C.

87/100 Domaine Quintin Frères Rive Droite 2009 5.80 €

Coteaux du Layon A.C.

88/100 Domaine FL Les 4 Villages 2009 21.60 €

Cour Cheverny A.C.

86/100 Domaine Le Petit Chambord Vintage 2009 7.10 €

Menetou-Salon A.C.

88/100 Domaine de la Tour Saint-Martin

Morogues 2009 10.80 €

87/100 La Busardière Marquis de Maupas 2010 7.00 €

Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire A.C.

88/100 Domaine des Pierres Meslières

Vintage 2010 4.40 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine A.C.

87/100 Lieubeau Vigneron Château-

Thébaud 2007 11.50 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.

89/100 Domaine La Haute Févrie Excellence 2009 4.70 €

89/100 Domaine R de la Grange Vintage 2009 7.30 €

89/100 Domaines et Châteaux Véronique

Gunther-Chéreau Vintage 2009 6.00 €

89/100 Château de la Bidière Le Rocher -


88/100 Ganichaud Gilbert et Fils Vintage 2005 5.00 €

87/100 Domaine Bel Air Vintage 2010 3.80 €

87/100 Domaine de Beauregard


87/100 La Tour Gallus Vintage 2009 5.20 €

87/100 Château de l'Oiselinière Les Illustres 2009 6.20 €

86/100 Fief aux Dames Vintage 2010 n/a

86/100 Domaine des Tilleuls Cuvée Sélection 2010 3.30 €

Pouilly-Fumé A.C.

89/100 Domaine Chauveau La Charmette 2010 7.50 €

89/100 Château de Tracy Vintage 2009 17.00 €

89/100 Domaine Landrat-Guyollot

Gemme de Feu 2009 15.00 €

89/100 Domaine Gilles Langlois

Les Champs Billards 2009 7.30 €

88/100 Jean Pabiot et Fils Vintage 2010 9.30 €

88/100 Michel Redde & fils La Moynerie 2008 14.00 €

88/100 Domaine Patrice Moreux

La Loges aux Moines 2010 9.50 €

87/100 Domaine Michel Dutarte Vintage 2010 7.50 €

87/100 Domaine Serge Dagueneau & filles

Tradition 2010 12.00 €

87/100 Domaine de Riaux Vintage 2010 10.00 €

Quincy A.C.

86/100 Domaine Trotereau Vintage 2010 8.00 €

Reuilly A.C.

86/100 Domaine Henri Beurdin & fils Vintage 2010 6.00 €

Sancerre A.C.

89/100 Cave des Vins de Sancerre

Le Clos du Roy 2009 17.00 €

89/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 n/a

89/100 Domaine Franck Millet Vintage 2011 9.00 €

89/100 Vincent Grall Vintage 2010 8.00 €

89/100 Dionysia Vin de l'Olympe 2010

89/100 Domaine Paul Prieur Vintage 2010 8.00 €

89/100 Domaine Reverdy Ducroux

Montée de Bouffant 2009 14.50 €

89/100 Domaine François Millet Confession 2010 10.00 €

89/100 Michel Vattan Cuvée Calcaire 2009 7.50 €

88/100 Philippe Raimbault Les Godons 2010 9.40 €

88/100 Daniel Chotard Vintage 2009 8.40 €

88/100 Gitton Père & Fils Les Romains 2010 13.25 €

88/100 Roger Champault et Fils le Clos du Roy 2010 8.90 €


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88/100 Domaine du Carrou Chêne Marchand 2010 12.50 €

88/100 Domaine de Champarlan Vintage 2010 7.50 €

88/100 Domaine La Barbotaine Vintage 2010 7.00 €

87/100 André Dezat & Fils Vintage 2010 7.90 €

87/100 Domaine Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy

Terre de Maimbray 2010 8.80 €

87/100 Domaine de la Croix St-Laurent

Vintage 2010 9.00 €

86/100 Domaine Serge Laporte Vintage 2010 8.35 €

86/100 Domaine Daniel Reverdy et fils

Vintage 2010 7.00 €

86/100 SCEA Vrilleres Vintage 2010 9.00 €

Saumur A.C.

89/100 Langlois-Chateau Vieilles Vignes 2005 14.75 €

86/100 Domaine du Pas Saint-Martin

Jurassique 2010 12.90 €

86/100 Domaine des Clos Maurice

La Licorne du Clos 2010 9.00 €

Savennières A.C.

88/100 Domaine des Baumard

Clos du Papillon 2007 18.00 €

88/100 Loïc Mahé Les Fougeraies 2009 14.50 €

Touraine A.C.

87/100 Bougrier SA Sauvignon Blanc 2010 4.99 €

86/100 Domaine Baron Sauvignon Blanc 2010 n/a

86/100 Château de Fontenay Le sauvignon 2010 7.00 €

Touraine Amboise A.C.

87/100 Domaine Dutertre Les Ménates 2010 6.50 €

Vin de Pays du Val de Loire

88/100 Domaine de la Renne Chardonnay 2010 3.45 €

87/100 Domaine Poiron-Dabin Pinot Gris -

Séduction 2010 6.00 €

Vouvray A.C.

87/100 Domaine de la Rouletière Demi-sec 2009 5.50 €

87/100 Vincent Carême Sec 2009 11.50 €

PROVENCE

Alpilles I.G.P.

87/100 Château Romanin Vintage 2010 11.00 €

Bandol A.C.

89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette 2010 14.50 €

88/100 Domaine de la Laidière Vintage 2010 14.50 €

87/100 Domaine La Suffrène Vintage 2010 12.00 €

86/100 Domaine Dupuy de Lôme Vintage 2010 12.00 €

Cassis A.C.

88/100 Domaine de Fontblanche Blanc de Blancs -

Pur Jus de Gouttes 2009 12.65 €

Coteaux d'Aix en Provence A.C.

86/100 Domaine de la Cadenière Tendance 2010 4.85 €

Côtes de Provence A.C.

89/100 Peyrassol Vintage 2010 n/a

88/100 Domaine Saint André de Figuière

Confidentielle 2009 24.20 €

88/100 Château du Galoupet Vintage 2009 11.20 €

87/100 Domaine de la Sauveuse Vintage 2010 9.50 €

87/100 Château Léoube Vintage 2010 14.80 €

87/100 Château des Launes

Cuvée Spéciale 2009 18.50 €

87/100 Domaine de l'Amaurigue Vintage 2010 7.00 €

86/100 Château du Rouët Belle Poule 2010 9.00 €

RHONE VALLEY

Châteauneuf du Pape A.C.

89/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Vintage 2010 24.00 €

89/100 Domaine Bosquet des Papes

Cuvée Tradition 2010 19.50 €

87/100 Domaine des 3 Cellier L'Insolent 2010 20.20 €

BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2011 Brilliant light yellow. Fruity nose withlime accents. The palate is wonderfullysappy, fresh, well-balanced andperfumed with a long finish driven bywhite fruits and exotic touches. Trywith a platter of sea urchins.

89/100




Condrieu A.C.

89/100 Domaine Gilles Flacher Les Rouelles 2009 25.00 €

89/100 Duvernay Vins Vintages Vintage 2009 24.00 €

Costières de Nîmes A.C.

87/100 Château de la Tuilerie Grenache blanc -

Viognier 2010 9.20 €

Côtes du Rhône A.C.

89/100 Domaine Nicolas Croze


87/100 Domaine des Favards Le Barriqué 2010 7.50 €

86/100 Jean-Marie Lombard Vintage 2009 10.50 €

86/100 Domaine Beauvalcinte Mon Trésor 2010 7.20 €

Côtes du Rhône-Villages A.C.

88/100 Domaine de l'Amauve La Daurée 2010 9.50 €

Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne A.C.

86/100 Domaine Alary La Font d'Estévenas 2009 8.00 €

Côtes du Ventoux A.C.

86/100 Domaine de Tara Hautes Pierres 2009 10.50 €

Crozes-Hermitage A.C.

89/100 Domaine Pradelle Vintage 2009 9.10 €

Hermitage A.C.

89/100 Domaine Betton Vintage 2009 37.00 €

Lirac A.C.

86/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Arcane 2009 8.90 €

Saint-Joseph A.C.

88/100 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne

Vintage 2010 18.00 €

Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange

87/100 Domaine de Dionysos La Devèze -

Viognier 2011 7.20 €

SAVOY

Seyssel A.C.

87/100 Maison Mollex Roussette -


Vin de Savoie Chautagne A.C.

87/100 Domaine de Chevigneux Vintage 2010 5.10 €

Vin de Savoie Chignin A.C.

87/100 Domaine Jean-Pierre et Jean-François

Quénard Vintage 2010 n/a

Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron A.C.

89/100 Jean Perrier & fils

Fleur de Roussanne 2009 7.50 €

87/100 Domaine Jean Vullien et Fils

Charme - 50 cl 2009 12.00 €

Vin de Savoie Jongieux A.C.

86/100 Domaine Edmond Jacquin & fils

Vintage 2010 5.20 €

Vin de Savoie Ripaille A.C.

86/100 Domaine de Ripaille Vintage 2009 6.10 €

SOUTH-WEST

Côtes de Gascogne I.G.P.

88/100 Béraut Ampélomeryx 2009 8.25 €

88/100 Domaine de Joÿ L'Etoile 2010 4.10 €

88/100 Domaine de Ménard Colombard -

Sauvignon 2010 3.50 €

87/100 Domaine Chiroulet Terres Blanches 2010 5.65 €

87/100 Domaines François Lurton


87/100 Vignobles Drieux Colombard -

Sauvignon 2010 4.50 €

86/100 Domaine Uby Colombard -

Ugni blanc 2011 4.35 €

Gaillac A.C.

88/100 Domaine Sarrabelle Vintage 2009 8.00 €

Jurançon A.C.

88/100 Domaine Bru-Baché

Les Casterasses 2006 15.00 €

Jurançon sec A.C.

88/100 Domaine Cauhapé Sève d'Automne 2009 14.50 €

Monbazillac A.C.

89/100 Château Vieux Touron

Elevé en barriques 2004 19.00 €

89/100 Château Haut Bernasse

Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007 22.00 €

Montravel A.C.

87/100 Château Pique-Sègue Vintage 2010 4.50 €

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec A.C.

89/100 Vignobles Brumont Les Jardins 2009 n/a


ORGANIC NEWS

After being dismissed from a co-operative winery where he was involved in anorganic wine project, Gilles Louvet went on to fulfil his dream of creating acompany that satisfied his production ethos and at the same time met marketrequirements for organic wines. Meet this atypical entrepreneur.

Behind Gilles Louvet’s signature wines is a production

potential of 700 hectares falling into three different

categories. Firstly, his own acreage. The second category

is made up of the contract growers bound by 5 - to 10 - year

contracts who comply with strict production procedures in the

vineyard in areas such as choice of products and harvest dates. In

the third category are the growers who do not have a formal,

long-term contract but receive advice from Gilles Louvet and a

commitment to buy grapes.

Using such a variety of sources, located mainly in Languedoc-

Roussillon, and bolstering supplies by spot purchases when

necessary allows the firm to respond to distributors with

challenging volume requirements. Naturally, this begs the obvious

question: is organic wine compatible with large volume sales?

“Yes”, explains Gilles Louvet, “because the volumes come from a

vast swathe of vineyards stretching from the Pyrénées-Orientales

to Orange in the Rhône Valley, from both co-operative and

independent wineries.” Depending on the origin and the price-

Gilles Louvet: the inventor oforganic wine shipping

Gilles Louvet

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Gilles Louvet: the inventor of organic wine shipping


positioning of the appellation, the wines will either be classed as

“generic” (Languedoc for example) and therefore produced in

large quantities, or as premium (Saint Chinian, Côtes du

Roussillon, Maury…) and grown on a more boutique scale.

Irrespective of provenance, all wines are checked, firstly by the

in-house agricultural engineer and then a second time by a

certification body (Ecocert) before being marketed.

A RANGE OF STYLES ANDAPPELLATIONSThe most challenging task is to ensure that the 400 or so tanks

from which the various labels are created are managed rationally.

The real issue is not just about producing large-scale brands but

also offering a range of styles and appellations that will meet all

types of requirements (or almost), from entry-level Vin de France

(ex-cellar price of 2 euros excluding VAT) to a “hand-crafted”

appellation wine aged for two years (ex-cellar price of 12 euros

excluding VAT). Supplies are therefore “directed” in an extremely

pragmatic way: some growers opt for a standard contract with a

commitment to buy their grapes or wines, while others prefer an

all-inclusive arrangement that not only embraces production aspects

but also includes marketing and communication management. As

Gilles Louvet stresses: “promoting ourselves is not the top priority,

the wine and the producer are pivotal to our communication.” In

this instance, bespoke specifications are drawn up, obviously

geared to the potential of each site, to ensure that the wines have

their own unique personality and are more profitable.

INTERNATIONALDEVELOPMENTAfter almost 20 years of hard work, day in, day out, Gilles

Louvet now heads up a team of 17 people and has gradually

spread his geographical net with a subsidiary company in New

York, another in Germany and an office in Japan. The team

boasts three wine makers who are tasked with monitoring crops

and wine making. Gilles Louvet admits, however, that he still

cannot always focus his energy on other areas because he

cannot resist the temptation of overseeing the harvest. In his

own words: “at harvest time, I have no alternative but to visit the

vineyards and the wineries.” Proof if any were needed that

underneath the executive suit lies a local man with the same

love for wine and his job as on the very first day, back in 1993.

Sylvain Patard

VIGNOBLES GILLES LOUVETZA Bonne Source - 30, rue Ernest Cognacq

11100 Narbonne - FranceTel. +33 (0)4 68 90 12 80 - www.vignobles-gilleslouvet.com

'O' BYGILLESLOUVET,ONE OFTHEGILLESLOUVETBRANDS

GILLES LOUVET CANNOT RESIST THE TEMPTATION OF OVERSEEING THE HARVEST

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REGION

When Laurent Navarre, the commercialdirector of Libourne’s most famouswine merchants J.P. Moueix, first

started working in the wine trade, a well-knownBritish buyer told him that in a year or two therewould be no more wine brokers in Bordeaux.That was 25 years ago. Today the Place deBordeaux still exists with its brokers and merchants;it continues to function, and, according to some,flourish.

WHAT IS THE PLACE DEBORDEAUX?It is the trade of wine between the wine producerwho sell via a broker (the courtier) to the winemerchant buyer (the négociant) who then sells on tothe world’s markets via a developed distributionnetwork. Some forty years ago the average sizeof a wine property in Bordeaux was two hectares,

Since wines were firstproduced in Bordeaux inmedieval times, they havebeen sold through winemerchants via brokers. Thisway of trading, known as thePlace de Bordeaux, still existstoday. Is it an ever-changing,efficient model that hasbrought Bordeaux winesworldwide fame, or anarchaic, rigid structure thatis past its sell-by date?

The Place de Bordeaux:Bordeaux’s wine trade under scrutiny

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The Place de Bordeaux: Bordeaux’s wine trade under scrutiny


Grand Chai de France, Ginestet, CIVBG). There are 15 to 20middle-sized merchants such as Maison Sichel, Moueix,Borie-Manoux and Mahler-Besse). All are different and specialisein different types of wines and markets. They perform severaldifferent roles in addition to promoting and selling in Franceand abroad, including selecting wines, blending, bottling,holding stocks and ageing wines for future release.

WHICH WINES ARE SOLD ON THE PLACE DE BORDEAUX?There are three main types of wine sold on the Place deBordeaux; all of the famous Grand Cru Classé are sold thisway, as well as some of the smaller individual châteaux wineswho supply their wines in bottle, and as bulk wines to bemade up into merchant’s brands. The Place de Bordeaux worksin different ways to sell these different types of wines. It is anopen system where the simple market rules of supply anddemand regulate prices naturally across the world’s markets.

and it made sense for producers, in terms of economy of scale,to sell via specialist merchants. Today, with larger vineyardscreated by an amalgamation of properties, often owned byinstitutions, and the push across the world to sell direct andcut out themiddle man, why is this still the case? Firstly weneed to understand the unique characteristics of this wineregion and the types of wines that are sold within this system.

THE PLACE DE BORDEAUX: A WINE TRADE NETWORK UNIQUE TO BORDEAUXThere are currently 10,000 wine producers in the region ofBordeaux, the largest appellation in France, spanning 115,100hectares (the regions of Champagne and Burgundy havearound 30,000 hectares). There are 60 different appellations(producing 50.6 million hectolitres in 2010, representing3.36 billion euro). Bordeaux is unique in the vast range ofwines it presents to the world markets. So how best to sell somany wines across the world, taking into consideration thatthere are around 16,000 different labels of numerous differentvintages at one time on the market?

HOW DOES BORDEAUX’S WINE TRADE WORK?

THE ROLE OF THE BROKERThe broker (courtier) is the intermediary between seller andbuyer, the ‘third man’. There are 100 brokers in Bordeaux whospecialise in different areas. They select and propose wines tothe wine trade network. They guarantee that the sale contractis correctly fulfilled by both parties, although there is no officialdocument. They oversee more than 80% of the transactionsbetween the wine producer sellers and the merchant buyers.

A courtier does not sell, but is rather the middle man whofacilitates the business between the grower and négociant.There is no obligation to use courtiers but they are a very usefultool for business. They add value by providing accurate informationand knowledge of the market price and the availability ofwine on the market. Their main role is to source wine for themerchants (and to sell excess stocks onto the Place deBordeaux if necessary). Each broker specialises in an area ortype of wine and works with several merchants, spreading hiseconomies of scale. It is the broker who has the password toaccessing the bank of information of who is holding whatstocks where. The merchants pay 2% of the sales value for thequick access to this up-to-date database of information.

THE ROLE OF THE WINE MERCHANTThe merchants sell 70% of Bordeaux’s total production to 170different countries around the world. Each has their ownunique sales network. Of the 300 wine merchants in Bordeaux,25 of the major players represent 80% of the business (Castel,

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“YOU HAVE A PERMANENT RE-EVALUATION OF THE PRICE OF YOURWINE ON THE PLACE DE BORDEAUX”


REGION

THE GRAND CRU CLASSE ELITE There are approximately 150 Grand Cru elite wines producedin the region of Bordeaux, which represent only 4% of thevolume produced but 20% of the value. These include theproperties classified in 1855 in the Haut Médoc andSauternes, the Premier Grand Cru Classés of St Emilion, topPomerols, and Pessac-Léognan’s Grand Cru Classé wines.

Many of these wines are sold en primeur, as futures, only a fewmonths after the harvest, with deferred delivery after theirageing in barrel has been completed some two years later. Allthese wines are sold on the Place de Bordeaux. There are some150 merchants who specialise in this market and who competeon the Place de Bordeaux to gain allocation. Each of thesewines is sold by a number of different négociants.

THE POINTS OF VIEW OF THE PLAYERS INVOLVEDAllan Sichel, president of the’Union de Maisons de Bordeaux

which groups the 300 merchants in Bordeaux explains: “It is

possible theoretically for a grand cru property to bypass the Place de

Bordeaux, but there is no logic in doing so. It is a powerful tool

for distributing these châteaux wines throughout the world and is

essential for brand exposure, image and prestige.”

Bernard Magrez only sells his Graves Grand Cru Classé, Pessac

Léognan and Château Pape Clément via the Place de

Bordeaux, despite having a sales team that sells the wines

from his 30 or so other properties around the world.

Jean-Jacques Bonnie from Château Malartic-Lagravière

(Graves Grand Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan) describes being

part of this ancient system as having an “eclectic distribution

all over the world, with a permanent re-evaluation of the price

of your wine on the Place de Bordeaux, with little chance for

any ‘sleeping’ or stuck stocks of wine.”

Antony Barton of Château Léoville-Barton (2nd Growth, St

Julien) thinks that the margin he loses to the 100 or so merchants

who sell his wine world-wide is well worth it as it leaves him

and his team to focus on what they do well, making the wine:

"It says it all that Philippe de Rothschild sold Mouton Cadet

direct but chose to sell Mouton-Rothschild on the Place de

Bordeaux."

THE SMALLER CHATEAUXThis is a range of wines from smaller properties from across

the region, representing a number of different terroirs that are

normally estate-bottled. Eighty percent of these wines are sold

via the Place de Bordeaux. There is a new generation of wine

producers who more able to communicate in different languages,

and who are adept at social networking both online and off;

these individuals are travelling around the world, trying to

sell direct and thus benefit from the higher prices they can

attain for their wines. There are grants from bodies such as

France Agrimer, and associations such as Ubifrance who organise

trade fairs, to help them do so.

FRANCK AND LAURENCE MOUREAU, CHÂTEAU BÉARD LA CHAPELLE, ST EMILION GRAND CRU www.beardlachapelle.com Representing the ninth generation to run their family property,

this young brother and sister team sell their wine worldwide

via négociants but admit that “it is essential for us to be able to

sell at least 70% of our wine direct to buyers in markets such

as China, USA and Brazil. Our future is via these direct distribution

channels.”

Jean-Jacques Bonnie - Château Malart ic-Lagravière

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REGION

PIERRE REBAUD, CHÂTEAU GABY, FRONSAC www.chateau-dugaby.com

“For négociants to be interested, wines need to come from

sought-after appellations or already have an established brand

and following. Unfortunately this is not the case normally

with appellations such as Fronsac. We have to work hard to

create a name for Château Gaby via active communication and

educating the end consumer. This is done via the internet, and we

welcome visitors to our beautiful location overlooking the

Dordogne and sell our wines to them. We currently sell 80%

of our production direct, mainly abroad, but would like to

work more with négociants to benefit from their extended

distribution network.”

YVES RAYMOND, CHÂTEAU SARANSOT-DUPRÉ,LISTRAC www.saransot-dupre.com

“I currently sell all of my wines direct but do not have the time

or contacts in certain markets. Working exclusively with a

négociant on such markets is the only way the Place de

Bordeaux could work for me. I can appreciate the merchant’s

reticence in building a following for a wine in a particular

market, only to be undercut by someone else. That is why I

would look to work in exclusivity on a market such as the USA

where the négociant would ‘work' my wine.”

ALLAN SICHEL, NÉGOCIANT MAISON SICHEL www.maisonsichel.com

“There is no need to be exclusive with a single distribution

network - they can, and often do, complement each other. All

sales channels have a legitimate raison d’être. The most important

consideration in this case is that the pricing structure has to

make sense. If the producer sells 20% of his wine direct to the

consumer in a market for say 6 euros, and the rest of the wine

is sold via the merchants, they also need to be able to sell it

for 6 euros. There needs to be coherence. It is important for

the producer himself to drive his own sales strategy using the

different sales channels.”

THE CHANGING FACE OF THEPLACE DE BORDEAUXAllan Sichel thinks that during the past four or five years,

there has been a new, more modern approach which has led

to the Place de Bordeaux becoming more adept at adapting to

changing market situations, driven primarily, he believes, to

the younger generation helped by globalization and more

transparent pricing due to the internet. Today, top ‘foreign’

wines from Chile and Italy for example are sold via the Place

de Bordeaux by specialised brokers on the worldwide markets

- proof perhaps that the Place de Bordeaux is an effective way

of selling top-end wines around the world. Sichel summarises:

“The Place de Bordeaux is not a rigid structure, there are no

fixed rules. It is based on good sense, the shaking of the hand,

trust and loyalty based on the long-term, a system that has

worked over the centuries. We continue with it not because we

have to, or that we cannot do it differently, it keeps on going

because it is the best way in Bordeaux to do business and no-one

has invented a better way.”

“I CURRENTLY SELL ALL OF MY WINESDIRECT BUT DO NOT HAVE THE TIME OR

CONTACTS IN CERTAIN MARKETS“

Yves Raymond - Château Saransot-Dupré

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The Place de Bordeaux: Bordeaux’s wine trade under scrutiny


It seems that the system continues to work in different ways

for the variousplayers involved. Let us finish with the sentiments

of someone from the next link in the chain, the largest buyer of

classified Bordeaux, London wine merchants Berry Bros. & Rudd.

Over hundreds of years of relations developed directly with

the châteaux of Bordeaux, Simon Staples admits that there is

some reticence in having to buy the Grand Cru wines via the

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WINE MERCHANTS SELLING GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS TO CONSUMERS

BARRIERE FRERES www.barriere-freres.com

BORDEAUX TRADITION www.bordeaux-tradition.com

LA BORDELAISE DES GRANDS VINS

BORIE MANOUX www.borie-manoux.com

BOURNAZEL & CIE www.bournazeletcie.fr

BRUSINA -BRANDLER www.herve-duboscq.fr

CHATEAU CLASSIC - www.chateauclassic.com

Le Monde des Grands Bordeaux

CIE MEDOCAINE DES GRANDS CRUS www.medocaine.com

CLARENCE DILLON WINES www.clarendelle.com

H. CUVELIER & FILS www.cuvelier-bordeaux.com

MAISON JEAN DESCAVES www.descaves.fr

DIVA BORDEAUX www.divawine.com

DUBOS FRERES & CIE www.dubos.com

GROUPE DUCLOT/ AMARCORD (Filiales de Videlot)

ROBERT GIRAUD www.robertgiraud.com

GRANDISSIME www.grandissime.com

HOREAU-BEYLOT & CIE www.horeau-beylot.fr

NATH. JOHNSTON & FILS www.nath-johnston.com

JOLLIOT PAULIN

MÄHLER-BESSE www.mahler-besse.com

MAISON MALET ROQUEFORT www.maletroquefort.com

MILLESIMA www.millesima.com

LES VINS DE PIERRE MONTAGNAC www.montagnac.com

J.J.MORTIER & Cie www.mortier.com

OENOALLIANCE

OENOTEX www.oenotex.com

PROVINO www.provino-bordeaux.com

CHEVAL QUANCARD www.chevalquancard.com

MAISON QUIEN & Cie www.quien-wines.com

PHILIPPE RAOUX www.winery.fr

UNION VINICOLE DE GASCOGNE www.unionvinicole.com

VEYRET LATOUR www.veyret-latour.com

VIGNOBLES INTERNATIONAUX

THE WINE MERCHANT www.the-wine-merchant.com

négociants who take an automatic 15 to 20% margin. “But

above all I have immense respect for the history, the loyalty,

that a man’s word is his bond, a deal is a deal. … I love the

wines of Bordeaux, most of the châteaux and négociants, and

the whole infuriating, confusing, bewildering and charming

system! Bring on those 2011s!”Nicolle Croft

Château Desmirail, an 1855-ranked 3rd

growth Margaux

COLOURBlanc de Blancs translates as white wine from white grapes, andrefers specifically to the white grape of Chardonnay usedexclusively to make Champagne, in the Champagne region.

Although two of the three predominant grape varieties used in

Champagne are red, the juice from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunierwhen pressed, like that of Chardonnay, is white. Therefore,Champagne made from red or white grapes is white, unless theintention is to make a pink Rosé, which often has a proportion ofChardonnay in the blend.


QUALITY FACTORS

With white cut-out landscapes and cellars, from white snow-coveredvines in winter and white flowers in spring, to strings of white pearlslacing the neck of a flute, Champagne just feels... white.

Chardonnay in Blanc de BlancsChampagne: a diamond of C’s

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Chardonnay in Blanc de Blancs Champagne: a diamond of C’s


CLARITYSubtle hues of salmons and pale pinks can result from pigments after gentle pressing ofred grape skins. Even if made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, these Champagnes range incolour from crystal clear to golden tones depending on vintage variation, ripeness andbottle age.

Chardonnay is very adaptable to climate and site conditions, from very warm regions toChampagne’s extreme septentrional limit. This cool climate creates conditions forChardonnay to be cut like a diamond with a pure, clear, flawless expression that reflectsextra dimensions, without the appearance or taste of opaque ripeness in its colour andflavour.

CARATLess than 5% of all Champagnes are Blanc de Blancs. As Chardonnay represents thesmallest surface area of Champagne viticole (28%) compared to Pinot Noir (39%) andPinot Meunier (33%), it is the most rare and, like precious stones, is therefore in demand.Chardonnay is often used in a proportion of roughly one third in non-vintage blends, andup to 50% or more in a vintage or prestige cuvée blend.

Chardonnay in Blanc de Blancs Champagne is particularly fine, elegant and light, offeringminerality, delicate aromas, floral notes, citrus and raw nuts when young. Chardonnay isideal for long, slow ageing, transforming with maturity into pastry and toasted nutsecondary and tertiary characters, while still retaining persistence and freshness.

CUTThe unique combination of chalk soils and cool climate create Chardonnay wines withfocus, precision, intensity and length. Chardonnay buds burst earlier and matures laterthan Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, needing roughly one week more sunshine to fullyripen than Pinot Noir. Styled from fresh, light, low dosage apéritifs, Blanc de Blancs can bepaired with first courses of seafood and shellfish; in its more vinous guise it canaccompany the main course, and when sweetened, matched with desserts.

Blanc de Blancs evolve from an austere character when young to greater complexity withage, whether non-vintage, vintage or prestige cuvées, single vineyard, village or blendedcrus, bottle-aged or recently disgorged.

Blanc de Blancs styles vary depending on the influence of the growing season and year, thelocation of the vineyard, and the winemaking influence e.g. e of stainless steel or oak,malolactic fermentation, blending, reserve wines, dosage and time spent ageing on lees.

BLANC DE BLANCS SETTINGSChampagne is divided into four main growing regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de laMarne, Côte des Blancs and Côte des Bar. In the shape of a diamond, the Chardonnaygrowing areas of Champagne could be cut between four points: Reims, Château-Thierry,Vitry-le-Francois and Montgueux.

Most soils are chalky limestone, with marl and sandy soils in Montagne de Reims and theMarne Valley where Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier dominate. Chardonnay needs regularhydration and drainage, therefore when it is grown on chalk soils it has great influence.

Blanc de Blancs find their major expression in the Côte des Blancs. Dominated by chalk,the Grand Cru villages of Cramant, Chouilly, Avize, Oger and Mesnil sur Oger produce

... BLANC DE BLANCS PRESTIGE CUVÉE AND VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES

KRUG CLOS DU MESNILSALON “S”

ROEDERER BLANC DE BLANCSDEUTZ AMOUR DE DEUTZ

HEIDSIECK BLANC DES MILLENAIRESTAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE

MUMM DE CRAMANTHENRIOT SOUVERAIN

BILLECART SALMON BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS JACQUESSON AVIZE, AND 2002 RELEASED LIEU DITS

RUINART DOM RUINARTPOL ROGER BLANC DE BLANC MILLLESIME

AYALA BLANC DE BLANCSPHILIPPONNAT GRAND BLANC

GOSSET GRAND BLANC DE BLANCS

well-framed, fine Blanc de Blancs with fruit aromas that rangefrom white citrus flowers to dried or even tropical fruits.

CÔTE DES BLANCS, LE MESNIL SUR OGERWine expert Michael Edwards has called Le Mesnil sur Oger “theCorton-Charlemagne of the Côte des Blancs.” The 99% GrandCrus Chardonnay vineyards face east and rise from relatively slightslopes that average eight degrees and become steeper to more than40 degrees at the top. The chalk is light, pure and porous to 40%,with sponge-like water retention capacity for thermal and hydric


QUALITY FACTORS

extreme types of Champagnes, sometimes austere, but reserveintense emotions for lovers of this style. The Premier Crus villagesof Cuis and Vertus have exceptional Chardonnay vineyardsarguably worthy of Grand Cru status for some growers.

Outside the Côte des Blancs there are pockets of Chardonnayvineyards that produce Blanc de Blancs with reputation: if we takeLe Mesnil sur Oger in the Côte des Blancs as the centre point ofour Chardonnay diamond, highlighted along its north-south axisis Villers-Marmery on the east of the Montage de Reims, Aÿ in theMarne Valley, and Montgueux in the Aube. Due to the diversity ofthese microclimates, viticultural practices are adapted to make

The fantastic Clos du Mesnil is a real ambassador for the Côte des Blancs

A selection of 100%...

... GROWERS AND COOPERATIVE WINERIES 100%BLANC DE BLANCS CUVÉE

DE SOUZA (AVIZE) - CUVEE DES CAUDALIES

FRANCK BONVILLE (AVIZE) - BELLES VOYES

MICHEL GONET (AVIZE) - PRESTIGE 1998

PHILIPPE GLAVIER (CRAMANT) - BLANC DE BLANCS

P. LANCELOT ROYER (CRAMANT) - CUVEE DES CHEVALIERS

PIERRE GIMONNET (CUIS) - CUVEE FLEURON 2006

CLAUDE CAZALS (LE MESNIL SUR OGER) - CLOS CAZALS

LE MESNIL (LE MESNIL SUR OGER) - PRESTIGE 2004

PHILIPPE GONET (LE MESNIL SUR OGER) - BELEMN ITA 2004

PIERRE PETERS (LE MESNIL SUR OGER) - LES CHETILLONS 2004

PAUL BERTHELOT (DIZY) - BRUT LA MARQUISE

G. GRUET (BETHON) - BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS

LE BRUN DE NEUVILLE (BETHON) - CUVEE CHARDONNAY

JACQUES CHAPUT (ARRENTIERES) - BLANC DE BLANCS

Salon produces one of the most famous Chardonnay in Champagne

A selection of...

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regulation. The village has 446 growers, 428 hectares ofChardonnay vines out of a total 430, with 1% of Pinot Noir.

Edwards has praised the “lucky Yves and Nicole Moncuit,”proprietors of family-run grower Champagne Pierre Moncuit in LeMesnil sur Oger for “their talent... as big as their birthright” and“excellent quality range of extremely incisive Blanc de Blancs ofgreat class.” The Moncuits have managed about 20 hectares forover a century now. “Our vineyard is relatively old, and it’s ourdecision to not renew entirely because we estimate that the age ofour vines is a guarantee of expression and of typicity,” saysdaugher Nicole Moncuit. “Our vines from Mesnil terroir express agreat minerality, with citrus aromas, brioches, butter, and notes ofwhite flowers.”

Nicole describes the Cuvée Pierre Moncuit-Delos Réserve Brut100% Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from Mesnil sur Oger as“elegant, dry, long, round and persistent, light and lively, perfectfrom apéritif to the end of the meal.” Ageing is important, and thedosage is adapted to each cuvée. “The other particularity of ourhouse is that we always work on only one harvest in bottle, andthe same is true for our non- vintages.”

COTE DE SÉZANNEChardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne grows on gentler slopeswith outcrop deposits of same pure chalk fifteen kilometressouth-west of the Côte des Blancs. There are no Grand or premierCru villages, however, the grapes are riper and offer moreapproachable characters in Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, orin blends.

CUIS AND VERTUS HAVE EXCEPTIONALCHARDONNAY VINEYARDS ARGUABLYWORTHY OF GRAND CRU STATUS

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Tom Stevenson says that Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne is

“much more precocious, with attractive, tropical fruit flavours” that

can be “quite exotic and musky” compared with the Côte des Blancs. With 1064 hectares and 75% of the total 1457 hectares grown inthe twelve villages of the Sézannais, Chardonnay is the principalgrape variety beside 5% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir.

The villages Saudoy, Chantemerle and Montgenost have smallvineyard plantings but a high 93% average of Chardonnay.

The village of Bethon at 150 metres altitude in the heart of theCôte grows the most Chardonnay with 89% over 174 of 194 totalhectares of vines.

AUBE, MONTGUEUXNicknamed the Montrachet of Champagne, the Seine Valleyslopes are home to the vineyards of Jacques Lessaigne, locatedsome hundred kilometres south of Epernay, where Chardonnaysare riper and richer. The vineyard island of Montgueux overlooksTroyes from a 209-metre hilltop, five kilometres to the west. Thiswas the vineyard of the Comtes de Champagne in the MiddleAges. Relatively steep chalk slopes face south east and the grapesare naturally ripened by the sun. Chardonnay from Montgueux ishighly sought after by negociant houses in Reims. Montgueux issurrounded by cereal crops in a regional sea planted with PinotNoir and Pinot Meunier.

While Chardonnay represents only 7% of total plantings in the

Aube, there are 74 exploitants in Montgueux, with 88%


QUALITY FACTORS

GRAND CRUCHOUIILY, CRAMANT, AVIZE, OGER,

LE MESNIL SUR OGER, OIRY

PREMIER CRUS VILLAGES 100% CHARDONNAYVERTUS, CUIS, GRAUVES, VILLENEUVE-RENNEVILLE,

BERGERES-LES-VERTUS

ATYPICAL VILLAGES WITH CHARDONNAY

MONTAGNE DE REIMS VILLERS-MARMERY AND TREPAIL (1ER CRUS)

MARNE VALLEY AY (GRAND CRU)

TOURS-SUR-MARNE (GRAND CRU)

AUBEMONTGUEUX

MARNEVITRY-LE-FRANCOIS MOST EASTERN IN MARNE

PLANTED MOSTLY WITH CHARDONNAY

VILLAGES 100% CHARDONNAY

A CLUSTER OF CHARDONNAY WITHEXTRAORDINARY PURITY

CÔTE DES BLANCS MEANSCHARDONNAY

FOUR REGIONS IN CHAMPAGNE 319 villages 32.178 ha % Chardonnay % Pinot Meunier % Pinot NoirMontagne de Reims (and Massif de Saint-Thierry) 101 7.960 24% 36 40

Marne Valley 98 11.232 16% 62 22

Côte des Blancs (and Sézannais) 57 6.169 82% 9 9

Côte des Bar 63 6.817 7% 5 8

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Chardonnay covering 198.2 hectares. Anne Velut of Champagne Jean Velut in Montgueux

explains that “the difference between our Blanc de Blancs and, for example, those of the

Côte de Blancs is that our soil is crayeux, but with quite a lot of veins of clay depending on

the parcels. This clay determines the taste of each base wine, so we take care to vinify each

parcel separately. This gives us a greater palette of various tastes and allows nuances in the

blends.” The chalk also contains silex which modifies the taste of the Champagnes a little,

“especially the vintages, where the ageing allows the expression of the ‘gout de terroir.’”

MONTAGNE DE REIMS, VILLERS MARMERY On the east of the semi-circular Montagne de Reims that is distinguished by slopes facing

in various directions favouring Pinot Noir, the village of Villers-Marmery is an exception.

Planted with 95 % Chardonnay, together with neighbouring Chardonnay-dominant

villages Trepail and Vaudemanges, there are in total 600 hectares of Chardonnay. Villers

THE MONCUITS HAVE MANAGED ABOUT 20HECTARES FOR OVER A CENTURY NOW

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QUALITY FACTORS

THE SELECT BLEND

GOSSET TOO...

BOUGHT BACK IN 1882, the vineyard at Cramant has a veryspecific purpose. It is used to make a unique blend reserved forfriends of the House and select customers: the Blanc de Blancs,Mumm de Cramant.

Made from meticulously selected Chardonnay grapes sourcedexclusively from the Cramant site, this Blanc de Blancs has aparticular resonance with connoisseurs for its amazing purity.Its clipped label is one of its more unusual features. In the 19thcentury, it was customary to leave a business card if the host

was absent. The right-hand corner was bent over if one hadcome in person. The Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant labelharks back to this tradition and acts as the House’s calling card.Originally reserved for the firm’s circle of friends, this amazingblend is now available in limited quantities at specialist winemerchants and on the tables of the most prominent chefs.

INTERVIEW WITH DIDIER MARIOTTI, HEAD CELLARMASTER AT G.H. MUMMMumm de Cramant is crafted in a slightly unusual waywith grapes sourced from a single vineyard rather than ablend. Does this make it easier to achieve consistency interms of style? The Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant is ablend of various tanks of wines from Cramant so it is noharder or easier than for the cuvée.

How does the Mumm de Cramant achieve such greatfinesse? The Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant’s greatfinesse comes from a deliberately shorter ageing period. Thisensures that it retains freshness and lower pressure (just 4.5kg)than most Champagnes allowing its delicate effervescence anda measure of unctuosity to fully reveal themselves.

Why is the vintage not stated? The blend deliberatelyundergoes a shorter ageing period to preserve its freshnesswhich is why we decided not to state the vintage.

Gilbert & Gaillard

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Although the firm has recently moved partly to Epernay, the brand has always had its roots

in Aÿ and has traditionally been attached to Pinot blends (Noir and Meunier). A few years

ago, though, it took the plunge with a new Blanc de Blancs. Cellar master Jean-Pierre

Mareignier patiently prepared for the new arrival and the result fully lives up to his

expectations. Sourced from fifteen or so different sites (including Avize, Chouilly, Cramant,

Le Mesnil sur Oger, Oger and Cuis in the Côte des blancs and Tour sur Marne, Trépail and

Villers-Marmery in the Montagne de Reims), the blend (Gilbert & Gaillard score: 95/100)

displays remarkable purity and refined expression with aromas of white flowers, white fruits

and an almond note. The style is ethereal with a very compelling freshness and lingering

finish. It is fashioned with the same excellence as the House’s other blends.

For more information: www.champagne-gosset.com



Marmery has 136 growers, and 238 hectares of Chardonnay out of

a total 243.1 hectares of vines.

Profiting from east- and south-east facing slopes, Chardonnay isplanted on deeper chalk soils here than in the Côte des Blancs.Grown on clay limestone, marl and sandy soils, the wines havecharacteristic finesse, minerality and natural acidity, with a bigger-bodied, rounder and fruitier, tropical touch.

Founded in the 1920s, Champagne A. Margaine is a fourth-generation family grower with six hectares of vines on VillersMarmery terroir. Today they protect this terroir with newprinciples of viticulture and soil management, and care. Plantedon a bed of very deep, poor soil on chalk rock, the roots plungedeep seeking moisture and heat: “the vines express all the

potential alchemy of grapes and terroir, suited above all toChardonnay” explains Arnaud Margaine.

Malolactic fermentation is prevented to preserve freshness of fruit.Margaine experiments with ageing vins clairs in three- to four-year-oldused Burgundy barrels. With large amounts of reserve wines in cellars,stored in bottles not stainless steel since 2005 for freshness and vigour,20% reserve wine is used for blending and balance. Dosage is alsostored in oak barrels for added character. The percentage of grapes inthe Cuvée Traditional Brut reflects the proportion in the vineyards:90% Chardonnay for freshness and bouquet and floral notes, and 10%Pinot Noir, creating an apéritif style.

Champagne A. Margain joined the Special Club in 1977. ThisBlanc de Blancs is only ever a vintage Champagne, made fromthree parcels of Chardonnay vines averaging 35 years, then agedfor three years sur lees in caves: it is “the perfect expression of theterroir of Villers Marmery,” the “fleuron” of the house, indeed,their diamond.

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

CHAMPAGNEP. Lancelot-RoyerCuvée des ChevaliersLight yellow. A mix of floralnotes, white-fleshed fruits and atouch of almond on the nose. The palate shows full bodyand finesse with a fleshy attack and a wonderful mid-palatethat lingers on and on. Fine-grained texture. A fresh,elegant Champagne finishing on a subtle toasted note.

89/100

CHAMPAGNEPierre MoncuitBlanc de Blancs Grand CruLight yellow. Delicately floral and fruitynose (hazelnut, almond, mirabelle plum).Fleshy, easy-drinking palate with a refinedtexture. Fresh and closely-integratedacross the palate. A very pleasant dry Champagne drinking wellas an aperitif or for a party.

89/100

CHAMPAGNEFranck Bonville BrutBlanc de Blancs GrandCru Les Belles VoyesBright pale gold. Idiosyncraticnose marrying violet, a butterynote and wonderful minerality.The palate reveals surprisingvinosity, fullness and exuberance. Melted, almost creamyacross the palate and showing seductive volume andpersistency. A Champagne with character.

91/100

CHAMPAGNEPaul BerthelotBrut La MarquiseLight yellow. Distinctive, expressivenose with creamy, brioche-like andfruity accents. Full mouthfeel with arefined, melted texture. Fairly powerful yet balanced bya touch of freshness. An opulent Blanc de Blancs thatshows real food compatibility with fish.

85/100

CHAMPAGNEJacques ChaputBrut Blanc de BlancsLight yellow with greenish tints.Enticing nose merging brioche-likenotes with touches of almond and alemony note. The palate shows a seductive creamytexture, refined bubbles and freshness. Persistent acrossthe palate. A lovely Blanc de Blancs for pre-dinner drinks.

85/100

CHAMPAGNEG. Gruet et Fils Brut Blanc de BlancsPale yellow with greenishtints. Delicate nose showingfloral aromas augmented bybuttery notes. Fresh, creamy palate with wonderfularomatic precision. An honest, ethereal Blanc de Blancsthat would make a perfect appetiser.

87/100

CHAMPAGNEMichel Gonet BrutBlanc de Blancs GrandCru Prestige 1998Old gold. Evolved, profoundnose expressing patisserie aromatics (cake, toasted almond),dried fruit and walnuts. Remarkably fresh palate showing aseductively refined texture, a full, melted entry and cleanfinish. A superlative Champagne.

92/100


REGION

A LITTLE HISTORYIf we focus on the recent history of

Rioja (from the second half of the 19th

century onwards), the wine-producing

region's relationship with France has

played a key role in the development of

the whole region in two ways.

In the 1850s and beyond, an increased

cooperation developed between Rioja

and Bordeaux. French oenologists and

technicians brought their knowledge to

their Spanish counterparts in Rioja,

making them change the style of their

wines from almost pale, coffee-coloured

wines, due to the overuse of oak, to

something more balanced.

At a time when French vineyards, parti-

cularly in Bordeaux, were struck by

mildew and above all by phylloxera,

imported wines were very much in

demand. These “new style” Riojas

suited the French palate perfectly and

thus the producers at the time had

their first taste of export sales - until of

course French wine production resu-

med and they stopped buying. Oddly enough, what was

then thought of as an innovative wine is now part of what is

considered to be classic style Rioja.

The beginning of the 20th century saw

Rioja exports develop, particularly to

the USA, and the first Spanish regulatory

body was created in 1926. In the 1950s

and 1969s, when Spain opened up as a

tourism destination, new export markets

developed, this time in northern

Europe, with the UK being added to

the list of Rioja-importing countries in

the 1970s. A new change in the style of

the wines came also at that time,

thanks to the introduction of stainless

steel tanks and the more precise use of

oak, backed by a change in legislation

which introduced new rules controlling

the length of time the wine should be

in oak.

The four main types of Rioja wines are

described in the table on the next page.

From cosecha to Gran Reserva, Rioja

will suit almost all occasion and pair

with almost every kind of dish.

Modern times have seen a group of

innovative producers introduce changes

in the style of the wines - changes that will be commented

upon later in this article.

Rioja is one of the two Denominaciónes de Origen Calificadas inSpain (the other being Priorato). This qualification is all the moredeserved because Rioja wines - joven, crianza, reserva or gran reserva -are always an enjoyable experience.

Miraculous Rioja wines

Diego Bonnel has long experience in the international wine sector,

as well as in strategic management and supply chain management. For more than 25 years, he has put his passion for wine and his expertise in winemaking and

exporting to use as a consultant,advising both winemakers and

public bodies. He travels extensively in many wine-

producing countries, meeting wineexperts including winemakers, oenologists and sommeliers.

Tasting thousands of wines eachyear, he is particularly

knowledgeable about Iberian wines. He currently lives in Madrid, where he heads the Spanish and Portuguese

G&G office.

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BY DIEGO BONNEL


THREE REGIONS IN ONE: RIOJA ALTA (43% OF ALL VINEYARDS), RIOJA ALAVESA (20%) AND RIOJA BAJA (37%)

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THE FOUR MAIN TYPES OF RIOJA WINES

TYPE OF WINE DESCRIPTION

YOUNG WINE

CRIANZA

RESERVA

GRAN RESERVA

Can go through some oak ageing or not, depending on the winemaker’s decision; these wines are usually released in the spring following the vintage.

Red wines must spend a minimum of 12 months in oak casks and another twelve in thebodega, either in bottle or in tanks, or a combination of the two.White and Rosado wines must spend at least 6 months in oak and another 6 in bottle.

Red wines must spend three years in the bodega, of which 12 months in oak casks.White and Rosado wines must spend 6 months in oak casks and two years in the bodega.

Made in exceptional vintages, the wines must spend 24 months in oak casks and 36months in bottle. For white and Rosado wines, the minimum ageing period is 48 months,with at least 12 months in casks.

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REGION

THREE REGIONS IN ONERioja is a viticultural region with 63,500 hectares under vine,grouping together 600 bodegas, 18,000 winegrowers and120,000 plots, all of which are thoroughly identified andcharacterised by the Consejo Regulador (Rioja’s regulatorybody). This expanse of vineyards is divided into three differentareas: Rioja Alta (43% of all vineyards), Rioja Alavesa (20%)and Rioja Baja (37%).

Globally speaking, Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa have anAtlantic climate while Rioja Baja - the most easterly area - hasa more Mediterranean type of climate. Tempranillo is mainlygrown in Rioja Alta, along with Mazuelo and Graciano in thehotter areas. Rioja Alavesa is the perfect place for Tempranillo,while Rioja Baja is favourable to Garnacha.

Soils, climate and vine exposure are quite different: soils areclay-based and often alluvial in the north, while iron- andchalk-rich outcrops can be found in Rioja Alta and RiojaAlavesa. In short, a passionate winemaker from Rioja can herework with many nuances and make his or her own particularinterpretation of this outstanding terroir.

GRAPES AT THE SERVICE OF A NOBLE CAUSEAs far as red varieties are concerned, the Tempranillo grape is

by far the most widely planted, representing more than 75%

of all vineyards. Apart from Tempranillo, other varieties are

used and usually blended with it: Garnacha, Mazuelo and

Graciano. Tempranillo is a good base for Rioja wine: it

br ings a fair alcohol level (around 13%) and when yields

are reasonable (around 55 hl/ha or less), enough colouring

matter and polyphenols to make a very interesting wine.

However, just as a single note of music does not make a

symphony, Tempranillo goes well with Garnacha, which gives

strength and warmth (alcohol levels can reach 16%) and

Mazuelo, also known as Cariñena in other regions of

Spain, particularly Priorat. Mazuelo brings acidity and

tannins, adding some extra ageing potential to the wines.

Graciano in turn will bring more structure and sharpness to

the final blend.

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RIOJA, A DIVERSE REGION PRODUCING ENCHANTING WINES



When it comes to white wines, Viura (called Macabeo in

north-eastern Spain) and Malvasía are the two cornerstones

that are part of the traditional blends. Viura (added to red

wines to give them some extra acidity and brightness) has a

strong personality and complexity. Malvasía will bring longer

ageing capacity as well as more weight and a good marriage

with oak barrels. Garnacha Blanca is another traditional grape

used in blends. The novelty comes from the recent introduction of

Verdejo, and a couple of international, very famous varieties:

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The first whites from these

grapes are still to reach the market and we will need to watch

this space to find out how well they sell.

WINE STYLESThe style of the wines is definitely marked by legislation and

the length of time wines spend in wood and in bottle. Joven

Rioja is fresh, fruity and vibrant; crianza is a more serious

wine, the teenager of the family, just starting to discover some

composure after troubled times. Reserva is the adult wine,

with a story to tell and some thoughts to share with the drinker.

Gran Reserva is the grand-father, the elderly member, bringing

wisdom and peace. Besides these styles - and sometimes

intertwined with them - are sub-zonal wines (coming from a

single sub-region), finca wines (single estate) or pago wine

(single vineyard). Some mono-varietal wines, based on secon-

dary grapes, are part of the viticultural landscape: 100%

Graciano, Mazuelo or Garnacha bottles can be found, even

though they are not the most common kind of wines.

LEADING DOMAINESIf we were to cite one “classic” domaine in La Rioja, it might

be López de Heredia, with its Tondonia range: these are wines

that spend a long time in wood, with their traditional garnet

hue. In fact it is the last, probably the only winery in Spain to

maintain its own cooperage. Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués

de Riscal and Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España can also

be cited; these were the wineries that launched the Bordeaux

chateau-style Riojas in the 1850s.

At the other end of the spectrum, there are wineries and

winemakers such as Allende, Roda, Sierra Cantabria or

Benjamin Romeo and Miguel Merino. They all have strict

vineyard management practices, rigorous grape selection, long

macerations and barrel fermentation, for red as well as white wines.

THE GEOLOGY OF THE REGION IS MARKED BY THE RIVER EBRO AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

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DIEGO BONNEL: What are themain challenges facing Rioja nowadays?VÍCTOR PASCUAL: As you know, as awine region producing around 320 -350 million bottles per year, one of themain challenges is to assure consistentquality for the entire production.This is what the Consejo Regulador isachieving: no underperforming wineleaves any bodega with the seal ofapproval of the Consejo. We are constantly reinforcingthe brand Rioja, which partly explains why we are sowell-known abroad.

DB: How would you define the soul of Rioja wines?VP: Rioja is a flexible and versatile wine: it is alwaysthere when you need it and can adapt to every situa-tion. In that sense, it is a friendly wine. Styles andcuvées are so different that it is possible to findexactly the right pairing when preparing a meal. Ithink this is the true style of Rioja: it is both an everydaycompanion, and the perfect guest for a specialoccasion.

DB: How do you see Rioja evolve in the future?VP: It will evolve according to our ambitious strategicplan for the period 2005 - 2020, based on three mainobjectives: continue to guarantee that all our Riojasare of undisputable quality, strengthen the imageof our wines sold in the upper segments of themarket, and increase our international presence. Wecurrently export 23% of our total production and ourgoal is to reach 50% in 2020, which seems quiteachievable if we maintain our current increase ininternational sales.

Finally, in between these two opposing styles, there are names

like Marqués de Vargas, Mayor de Migueloa and even Rioja

Alta, a bodega which is not afraid to experiment and which

has progressively introduced an element of modernity to its

wines. No doubt we will soon have the occasion to return to the

fascinating world of Rioja wines and their different styles. �


REGION

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An interview with the

President of the Consejo

Regulador de Rioja,

Mr. Víctor Pascual.

Víctor Pascual, president of the Consejo Regulador, Rioja’s regulatory body

LIKE WINES, EACH LANDSCAPE HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY

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Now available!NEW EDITION

�

We are delighted to present the 2012 Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide. All the wines

featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring a rigorous,

impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind tasted by

Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100 point scale

is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as no more

than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.

More than 3,300 wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes and

recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious

wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to

discover too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed, with

commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide is the essential guide to discovering French wines.

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PUBLICATION DATE:November 2011

AN ANCIENT VINEThere is a hypothesis that Tempranillo has some relationshipwith Burgundian Pinot Noir, and that it was brought tonorthern Spain by monks from the monasteries of Cîteauxand Cluny who were walking the Santiago de Compostellapilgrimage route. There is in fact some similarity between thegrowth cycle of the two varieties, even if each gives a veryspecific wine. Tempranillo was mentioned for the first timeback in 1513. Alonso Herrera, in his General AgriculturalTreaty mentions this variety under the name of Aragonés,which is how the grape was known in the Burgos region. Hedescribes it as a “firm grape, with big bunches and thickskin.” Two and a half centuries later, in 1791, this same grapewas named in Rioja, the heartland of Tempranillo, byValcárcel in his book on General Agriculture. Research iscurrently underway to determine the true origins of thisgrape, and news is expected soon: watch this space.


QUALITY FACTORS

Ask the average consumer about Spanish wine, and probably twowords come to mind: Rioja and Tempranillo. Both are intimatelyintertwined, but the Tempranillo grape is the most famous of all vitisvinifera varieties and the most widely planted red variety in Spain,giving diverse wines, pairing with a vast range of dishes and types offood. Put simply, Tempranillo is a great all-rounder of a grape.

Tempranillo: undisputed queen of the

Spanish viticultural landscape

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Tempranillo: undisputed queen of the Spanish viticultural landscape

TEMPRANILLO IN MODERN TIMESLike many other grapes, Tempranillo has different names: it iscalled Tempranillo in Rioja, Ull de Llebre in Catalonya, TintaFina in Ribera del Duero, Tinta de Toro in Toro, and Cencibelboth in La Mancha and Valdepeñas. However, it is only recentlythat the scientific community has realized that in fact all thesegrapes were one and the same, further to morphological andDNA analysis. After Airén (250,000 hectares), Tempranillo is themost widely planted red variety in Spain with 226,000 hectares,followed by the Bobal grape (81,000 hectares), Grenache andMonastrell (Mourvèdre). It is without doubt the grape that bestidentifies Spain: after bullfighting, sunny beaches and paella,there is Tempranillo. It is one of Spain's finest vitis viniferavarieties.

A UNIQUE SPANISH CHARACTERTempranillo has a few firm advantages: it buds relatively late andripens early (temprano means early in Spanish), at least a coupleof weeks before Grenache. This quality means that in Rioja andNavarra, Tempranillo can avoid even late frosts and givereasonable yields. However, it has one fault: it has only mediumlevel acidity, which means that in some cases other grapevarieties have to be called to the rescue: for instance, Grenache,Mazuelo (Carignan) and Graciano blends in Rioja.

Due to the relatively short growth cycle, this vine tends to bemore at ease with cool sites: it will ripen evenly anyhow. Iftemperatures are high, chances are the grape will loose its acidityand give a rather flabby, uninteresting wine. In fact, even thoughit is widely planted across red producing regions, Tempranilloacquires its prestige in the cooler central and northern parts ofSpain. Another advantage of Tempranillo is that it marries verywell with wood, American wood being the most popular typeused in Rioja. Now, most domaines - not just in Rioja, but alsoin Ribera del Duero and La Mancha - looking to produce highquality cuvées would rather use French oak, because it gives thewine a more subtle character. With this grape variety, quality issublimated by controlled yields: it is widely estimated that ayield of around 55 hl/ha will result in balanced, seductive wines.

WINE PROFILESWines go from light, fruity, quite pale in colour and relativelylow in alcohol (around 12,5% - 13%) to heavy, full-bodied andvery high in alcohol (more than 15% is not uncommon). Allstyles can be found, depending on a series of factors, mainlyclimate and vinification techniques used, combined with yield.As mentioned before, acidity plays a key role with Tempranillo.Wherever acidity is preserved, the wine will be truly enjoyable.This is the case in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, where the climateis more influenced by the Atlantic and wines have a goodbalance between alcohol, tannins and acidity. Navarra is anotherregion offering great reserve wines based on Tempranilloharvested in cool vineyards, like those located in the Valdizarbe


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TEMPRANILLO BUDS RELATIVELY LATEAND RIPENS EARLY

area. Heading east towards the Mediterranean, Tempranillo-based wines have a different personality: they are more full-bodied and have a southern character. In the south and west,Ribera del Duero is an ideal spot for Tempranillo. Averagealtitudes of 700 - 800 metres along with extreme temperaturevariations of as much as 15 to 20 degrees Centigrade during thesummer days give the wines a natural balance. With its extremecontinental climate, Atlantic influence and arid character, Torohas everything it needs to produce high quality Tempranillo,giving deep, concentrated wines that can even be harsh if poorlyvinified. Cigales also has a continental climate, hot summers,cold winters, and an Atlantic influence with strong thermaloscillations both during the day and throughout the year: itboasts interesting wines with tannins that need some time tosoften in the bottle.

A GRAPE MADE FOR FOOD LOVERSA perfect meal with Tempranillo-based wines might start with aCencibel from La Mancha, for instance a Casa Gualda joven(with 5% added Cabernet Sauvignon). It is a fresh, vibrant wine,with bramble and blackberry notes, that is well-matched with atypical Spanish cured ham, salami or any good quality driedsausage. Next, why not try a light young Rioja that hasundergone carbonic maceration, such as the wonderful Mitartemaceración carbónica from Bodegas Mitarte. Slightly fizzy, it is acheerful wine and a real pleasure that goes remarkably well withsimply grilled tuna fish. For the next course, how about a roastlamb, paired with a Ribera del Duero, such as the Nogal 2005from Pago de los Capellanes? To finish such a delightful meal,let yourself be seduced by a Toro crianza from Dominio delBendito. Paired with an aged, cured sheep milk cheese from LaMancha, it is quite outstanding.

Diego Bonnel

Don Pelayo de la Mata, Marquis de Vargas, is chairman of one of the topdistribution companies in the wine and spirits sector in Spain. Varmahas been a family business since 1942 and is well known for its capacityto build strong respected brands in the Spanish market (Cutty Sark, RonBarceló, Hendrick’s Gin and Jack Daniel's are good recent examples).Their group owns prestigious cellars in Rioja (Marqués de Vargas), inRibera del Duero (Conde de San Cristóbal), and in Rias Baixas in Galicia(Pazo San Mauro).


LIVE FROM SPAIN

A great Spanish gentleman's vineyard

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Pazo San Mauro

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LIVE FROM SPAIN


HOW DID YOUR EXPERIENCE AS A WINE PRODUCER

START? My family has a long wine-producing tradition. Four

generations of Vargas have been growing their vineyards

and producing wine, since my great grandfather, Felipe 8th

Marquis of Vargas planted his first vines in 1845 in an estate

of his own - Hacienda de Pradolagar in Rioja Alta, the heart

of La Rioja. My grandfather and my father followed him.

WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR DIFFERENT

WINERIES?In our Marqués de Vargas Grupo Vinícola, we have three

wineries. One is Marqués de Vargas in Rioja, another is

Conde de San Cristóbal in Ribera del Duero, and then

there is Pazo San Mauro in Galicia, in the Rias Baixas area.

We launched our Marqués de Vargas winery in 1989, rolling

out our first wine to the market in 1995. Our range only

features reserva wines. The concept is very close to that of a

Bordeaux château: we only use our own grapes, which

come from a 60 ha vineyard, from which we make 300,000

bottles. We have three different wines: Marqués de Vargas

reserva, Reserva Privada and Hacienda de Prado Lagar.

WHAT ABOUT THE CONDE DE SAN CRISTÓBAL

WINERY IN RIBERA DEL DUERO?Conde de San Cristóbal winery was started in 2000, when

we bought 40 ha of the Pago de Valdestremero, located in

one of the best areas of Ribera, near Peñafiel. Another 40

ha were planted and the first wine was launched in 2003.

Total production is very similar to that of the Rioja winery,

around 300,000 bottles. Here we use 10% Cabernet

Sauvignon and 10% Merlot which are blended with the

typical Tempranillo grape for our Conde de San Cristóbal

brand, and a few experimental varieties like San Giovese,

Touriga Nacional and others that are approved by the

Consejo Regulador (the main official certifier body) that

are blended in our Raíces (Roots) cuvée, of which only

2000 - 3000 bottles are made every year.

WHERE DID THE IDEA OF INCLUDING A WHITE

WINE IN YOUR OFFER COME FROM?Well, we thought we needed a white wine to complete our

offer and be able to cover a whole range of needs in the on-

trade channel. We decided to invest in Rias Baixas in

Galicia as we were in love with the wines coming from the

Albariño grape. Pazo San Mauro was bought in 2002. It

currently produces 280,000 bottles and has two wines:

Pazo San Mauro, which is a traditional Albariño, and a top

cuvée called Sanamaro made with battonage, with lower

yields, which comes from our best vineyards.

WHAT IS THE SPIRIT OF EACH OF THE WINERIES?HOW WOULD YOU SAY THEY DIFFER FROM EACH

OTHER?I would say Marqués de Vargas is the synonym of elegance

and finesse. Conde de San Cristóbal would be more like a

close friend you feel good with: easy to understand and to

drink. Pazo San Mauro is more versatile. Sanamaro is more

DON PELAYO DE LA MATA IS CHAIRMAN OF ONE OF THE TOP DISTRIBUTION COMPANIES IN THE WINE AND SPIRITS SECTOR IN SPAIN


LIVE FROM SPAIN

a solid companion to haute cuisine; it matches well with

white meats and seafood.

HOW DO YOU SEE SPANISH WINES COMPETING IN

THE MARKET?The reaction to declining consumption and sales in the

domestic market has not been quick, and now many

wineries are facing the challenge of exporting to other

markets for the first time. Most wineries still need to build

a consistent export policy and target the right markets,

which are the US, the UK, China, Japan, Canada, Mexico,

Brazil, and of course the main wine-drinking countries in

Europe.

In recent years there have been two factors that have not

helped Spanish wines exports: the existence of high stock

levels in the whole distribution channel, and the euro

exchange rate, which was unfavourable to the wineries.

Now, these two factors seem to be under control: the

channel needs to be fuelled again, and the dollar/euro

exchange rate seems to be closer than before.

IN THE COURSE OF YOUR CAREER, YOU MUST

HAVE HAD SOME MEMORABLE MOMENTS.COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT ONE OR TWO THAT

HAVE PARTICULARLY MARKED YOU?Yes, I have a couple of anecdotes to tell you. Last year, when

Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles came to Spain to

a public event, I met them at the Ritz in Madrid and they

tasted the Marqués de Vargas, our wine from Rioja, and

they really enjoyed it.

And another one: last summer, we reached an agreement

with Iberia, Spain's national airline. We were serving our

wines in the business class and we prepared a video where

I was interviewed by Custodio Zamarra, one of our top

sommeliers in Spain. A few weeks after the end of the campaign,

I had a meeting with an American contact who I had never

met before, and this person said he already knew me -

which was thanks to our presence on Iberia. I did not know

I was so famous!

Diego Bonnel

CONDE DE SANCRISTÓBAL, IN

RIBERA DEL DUERO,IS ONE OF THEPRESTIGIOUS

CELLARS OWNED BY VARMA IN SPAIN

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When we reached the vineyard, the rain that had been pouringthroughout our entire trip stopped and gave way to a glowing rainbow.Louis greeted us with a large smile. “I ordered it for you,” he said. Well, heobviously didn't, but maybe this is a good metaphor for what ishappening in New Jersey viticulture.

New Jersey wines: success in the making

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BY EMMANUEL DE LANVERSIN

ALMATHEA CELLARS TEAM: LOUIS CACCIOLO, JACKIE PANGIA AND CASEY ECONOMIDES



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Ask anyone about New Jersey wines and you’ll get a

blank face for an answer. New Jersey is about the

chemical industry, pollution, urban sprawl, the

Devils Hockey team, but certainly not wine. That’s why we were

surprised when a good friend told us: “You should go there,

you’ll be surprised.” Indeed we were.

HISTORYNew Jersey's first vines were planted by colonists during the

18th century. The earliest testimony to winemaking can be

found in 1767, when London’s Royal Society of the Arts

recognized two New Jersey vintners for their success in producing

the first bottles of quality wine. Charles Thomson and Edward

Antill wrote in an essay that “the general climate of North

America, the soil, the seasons, the serenity and dryness of the

air (...) are fit for making the best and richest wines of every

kind.” They recommended for New Jersey “the Chasselas

blanc, the Malvois, the grey Frontiniac, the red Frontiniac, the

black Lisbon, the white Lisbon, the Chasselas noir” as themost suited vines to the climate. But transplanting vitis viniferafrom Europe turned out to be a failure as the vines succumbedto phylloxera, black rot and mildew. Subsequently, Americanvines were planted and studied. The New Jersey vineyardexpanded. The oldest winery still existing today, the Renaultwinery, was established in 1864. In 1876, the nickname“Garden State" started to be used for New Jersey, because farmingwas the major activity, but Prohibition (1919-1933) put ahold on the development of wineries in New Jersey (andindeed, elsewhere in the US).

After the war, while California took up vine growing onceagain, New Jersey lagged behind because of laws limitingshipping and the number of farms. It was not until the early20th century that things started again. A handful of vintners -some of them with an heritage of several generations, othersnewcomers - realised that the terroir had huge potential.

TERROIRTo explain the benefits of the New Jersey terroir, Louis startedwith a joke. He pulled out two maps, one from New Jersey,one from Bordeaux. He twisted the French map and placed itover the New Jersey map: they matched! This coincidence is ahint, according to Louis, about New Jersey's potential.Situated along the Atlantic Ocean, it is divided into four differentgeological regions, of which three produce quality wine. Themajor region, Outer Coastal Plain AVA, is the area along theJersey shore, comprising a thick bed of sediments depositedduring the Cretaceous period. It is relatively flat and mostlycovered by pineland. The other two - Central Delaware ValleyAVA and Warren Hills AVA - are respectively in the foothillsand the highlands of the Appalachian mountains.

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TANKS AT SHARROTT WINERY

Char l ie Tomasel lo

AMERICAN VITICULTURAL AREAS IN NEW JERSEY



In the Outer Coastal Plains, the soil consists of gravel moundswith underlying layers of clay and sand. The vine roots can godeep into the lower layers without restrictions. This is thesame type of soil as found in Bordeaux; the climate is mid-Atlantic. The ocean and the river Delaware contribute tosmoothen the hardness of the continental climate from theAppalachians. The growing season on average has 190 to 220freeze-free days per year. These similarities with Bordeaux arean inspiration for the vintners. In 2010 they organized asymposium entitled "Bordeaux - An Old World Terroir withLessons for New Jersey" which concluded that CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot are thebest varieties from which to craft fine and complex wines. Wealso found interesting wines in our tastings made fromChambourcin and Chardonnay. Wineries have worked with alarge number of grape varieties and can now focus on thosethat are best suited - and forget those that do not thrive in thisclimate, such as Syrah.

In January 2012, a new bill was passed that allows small NewJersey wineries to keep their tasting rooms open as well as toship their wine directly to consumers inside and outside thestate, without going through the tier system which controlsthe USA wine distribution. This is a decisive move for the wineindustry.

WINERIESWe visited some of the most significant wineries in the OuterCoastal Plain AVA. They are located among pineland andhabitations. Most of them are former orchard farms transformed

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HE TWISTED THE FRENCH MAP ANDPLACED IT OVER THE

NEW JERSEY MAP: THEY MATCHED!Jim Quarel la f rom Bel lv iew winery

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into vineyards, a few of which were created from scratch. Theyare all family operated. A number of farms specialise in grapegrowing; the most famous and significant of these is that ofLarry Coia, a retired physician, who reconverted to agriculture.He sells his grapes to selected winemakers.

ALMATHEA CELLARS Louis is a non-conformist. On the wall of his cellar you cansee a sign from the Green Dragon Tavern in Boston, where therevolutionaries gathered in 1761 to drink coffee (not tea) andmade history: “It's free speech here. You can say bannedthings.” After a long career in the food industry, local boyLouis decided to settle on the farm he purchased in 1976 andto show the world the kind of wine it was possible to make inAtco NJ. His conviction and talent as a winemaker continue topave the way for others.

BELLVIEW WINERYThe name is probably a typo from the French bellevue, meaning“nice view.” The winery was founded in 1914 and Jim representsthe fourth generation. Located on rather flat land, the propertyis 150 acres (around 60 hectares) large and dedicated to vinegrowing since 2003. This is effectively a grape variety conservatory,featuring 20 different cultivars. In 2006 they were big enoughto produce wines from their own grapes. Part of their harvestis sold to other local vintners.

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OUR PICKS FROM OUTER COASTAL PLAIN



COLOUR SCORE ESTATE� 86/100 Amalthea Cellars 2009

� 86/100 Amalthea Cellars 2008



� 86/100 Auburn Road vineyards 2007


� 86/100 Bellview Winery 2010

� 86/100 Ventimiglia Vineyard 2010

� 85/100 Renault Winery Reserve 2009

� 85/100 Heritage Vineyards Estate Reserve 2010


� 85/100 Sharrott Winery 2010









� 82/100 Heritage Vineyards


� 80/100 Renault Winery 2009





COLOUR SCORE ESTATE� 90/100 Amalthea Cellars 2007

� 90/100 Tomasello Winery 2007

� 89/100 Renault Winery Estate Reserve 2009



� 89/100 Amalthea Cellars Limited Edition 2006




� 88/100 Cape May Winery 2009


� 88/100 Heritage Vineyards Estate 2010



� 88/100 Amalthea Cellars Reserve 2006




� 87/100 Unionville Vineyards 2010






� 87/100 Sharrott Winery Barrel Reserve 2010



SHARROTT WINERYNewcomers to the region, Larry Sharrott spent most of hisprofessional life in corporate America, in the IT sector. A fewyears ago, he decided he had had enough, and became anentrepreneur, together with his son. One business plan later,they built a brand new cellar with modern equipment on topof a mound that dominates their vineyard. They are testimonyto the rebirth of the vineyard.

TOMASELLO WINERYGrandfather Tomasello was one of the first people to be granted

the newly released government license for winemaking in

1933, after Prohibition was repealed. Charlie, who runs the

estate with his brother Jackie, explains that he was very determinedTomasel lo winery

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� red wine � white wine � fruit wine

RAINBOW OVER ALMATHEA CELLARS


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A FEW YEARS AGO, LARRY SHARROTT BECAME AN ENTREPRENEUR, TOGETHER WITH HIS SON

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to get the precious paper without delay. He headed to the

administration office with his truck, despite heavy snowstorms

on that day, and he is the proud possessor of National License

number 3. Today, Tomasello produces an incredible variety of

wines, including fruit wines, a tradition in the area.

RENAULT WINERYRenault, the oldest winery in the state, went through

Prohibition adapting their production to the Volstead Act,

namely producing wine-based tonics including peptone

additives for stomach ailments that were sold in pharmacies

to cure various diseases.The Milza Family has owned the estate

since the late 1970s; they invested in a golf resort as a solution

to the difficulties they faced shipping their wines, due to

regulatory constraints. Tourism and wine is a powerful

alliance; the new bill giving authorisation to ship wine to

customers will unleash their energy in winemaking and

probably boost the quality of their wines.

LOUIS CARACCIOLO: “I CAME ON THESCENE WITH ANUNLIT TORCH ANDMY GRANDFATHERPASSED THE FLAME”

CONCLUSIONWe were really impressed by the wine tasting. This handful of

determined vintners are clearly on the path to revealing new

terroir, pioneer-fashion. Nowadays, pioneers are pushing the

boundaries from within, thanks to their knowledge of their

land, of their terroir. They work in depth, taking time to

understand nature and the best way to reveal its fruits. Backed

up by geography, geology and ampelography, they take

immense risks to prove they are right and give the best to their

clients. It takes time to discover which grape variety is best suited,

which process will best enhance its characteristics. The vines'

vigour has to be mastered, the yield kept under control, the

best varieties have to be promoted. Other vineyards have

already travelled this path. In France, Provence for example

had to recreate a whole wine culture after the crisis of the

1920s. With the sequels of Prohibition laws vanishing, we are

prepared to bet that the region will grow in maturity and soon

offer serious wines.

This spring, a blind tasting is being held pitting serious Napa

Wines against others from Bordeaux. We will be there and

keep you posted!

Emmanuel de Lanversin



THE HERITAGE VINEYARDS & WINERYBill and Penni Heritage started to produce wine on their land

in 1999. Seeing the potential of the vineyard, they decided to

convert the 150 acres (60 hectares) of their orchard.The fields

have various expositions dominated by a hummock. Sean

Cominos is their winemaker.

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ADDRESSESTOMASELLO WINERY225 White Horse Pike Hammonton, New Jersey 08037 Tel. +1 (800) 666 9463www.tomasellowinery.com

AMALTHEA CELLARS209 Vineyard Road Atco, NJ 08004 Tel. +1 856 768 8585www.amaltheacellars.com

RENAULT WINERY72 N Bremen Ave Egg Harbor City,NJ 08215-3106Tel. +1 (609) 965-2111www.renaultwinery.com

HERITAGE VINEYARDS &WINERY480 Mullica Hill Rd.Mullica Hill, NJ 08062Tel. +1 856 589 4474www.heritagewinenj.com

SHARROTT WINERY370 South Egg Harbor RoadBlue Anchor, NJ 08037Tel. +1 609 567 9463www.sharrottwinery.com

BELLVIEW WINERY150 Atlantic StreetLandisville, NJ 08326Tel. +1 856-697-7172www.bellviewwinery.com

When the definitive history of American gastronomy is written, theSan Francisco Bay area will surely occupy a central place.


SAN FRANCISCO LIFE

Located little more than an hour from California’s mostfamed wine regions of Napa, Sonoma and Santa Cruz,close to some of the United States’ best farmlands,

open to the treasures of the Pacific Ocean, the Bay Area hasprovided more cylinders that fuelled the renaissance inAmerican gastronomy than any other part of the country.

Alice Waters’ restaurant Chez Panisse is located inBerkeley, across the bay from San Francisco: it started offthe movement in the 1970s, pioneering the idea (novel inthe US until the last decade) that distance between farmand plate should be as short as possible. She cultivatedrelationships with small-scale, organic farmers and

Nopa: A San FranciscoGathering Place

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Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco bay

SAN FRANCISCO LIFE


winemakers that spread to restaurants throughout the BayArea and beyond.

Nopa arrived nearly four decades after Alice Waters served herfirst meal. It takes relationships to a higher level, not onlyengaging small suppliers but also facilitating contact betweentheir customers and the suppliers themselves. Located in thescruffy Western Addition neighborhood of decidedly bourgeoisSan Francisco, Nopa celebrates the farmer, the vintner, thecheesemaker, as well as bakers, brewers, and a bevy of othersresponsible for what arrives on the table.

Indeed, Nopa defines itself not so much as a restaurant but a“gathering place” - appropriate since it serves dinner far laterthan most other San Francisco restaurants (until 1am), and isnow the depot for locals to collect organic produce on a weeklybasis from one of Nopa’s farmer-purveyors.

With all the good will, one might overlook the fact the foodand drink at Nopa are excellent and the atmosphere on anygiven night, celebratory. Led by chef Laurence Jossell, the kitchenmakes the most of its overwhelmingly organic produce with achanging menu of what might be called “nouveau California”dishes, a pastiche of sorts of various Mediterranean inspirationswhich are authentically though originally rendered fromCalifornia’s decidedly Mediterranean environment. A recentmenu featured shaved puntarelle (a type of Italian chicory),Page mandarins, watermelon radish and hazelnut; friedMonterey sardines and Meyer lemon aïoli as appetizers, braisedrabbit legs, acorn squash, farro, Arrowhead cabbage and currants;Moroccan vegetable tagine, almonds and lemon yogurt; andpappardelle, nine hour bolognese, spinach and Mezzo Seccocheese as main courses. Fittingly, a side order of French fries isserved with a harissa aioli rather than ketchup. And, as befitsan American gathering place, there is a hamburger, made fromgrass-fed beef, far superior to most any other burger in the city.

The wine list, which has been declared by New York Times’wine critic Eric Asimov as the best in San Francisco, is exceptional.There are over 300 treasures from Europe and the UnitedStates, both classic and esoteric. One finds Comte LafonMeursault along with Matthiasson’s unique Napa white, andChâteau Montrose with a Bobal from Spain’s Mancheula region.

One of Nopa’s most unique offerings is its website, whichallows guests past and future to learn about the restaurant’spurveyors through links and the restaurant’s blog. Wineconnoisseurs are also afforded the rare gift of learning notonly about the wineries represented, but their US importers aswell. The concern for the wine lover is expressed by the explicitinvitation for anyone interested in learning more about wineto contact Nopa’s sommelier directly. Fostering a sense ofcommunity, Nopa’s website also offers information aboutneighbourhood associations, artists, and local businesses. Agathering place, indeed.

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The wine list includes some excellent eaux-de-vie

NOPA560 Divisadero at Hayest Street - San Francisco - California - USA

Tel. +1 415 864 8643 - www.nopasf.com

Dining area at Nopa

BILTMORE ESTATE

The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, in the extreme south of North Carolina, was modelled after a French château. It attracts morethan a million visitors every year, a quarter of whom also visit the estate’s winery, making it among America’s most visited winecellar. It is North Carolina’s second-largest wine producer, with 250,000 cases a year, outrivalled only by the 335,000 casesproduced by the Duplin Winery in the east, a mass producer of the sweet Muscadine. Only 15% of Biltmore’s grapes are grownon their 94 acres (38 hectares) of land, the rest are bought in, mostly from California. The expressive, full and fruity BiltmoreReserve Viognier is one of their best wines, and their Château Reserve and the slightly smoother Blanc de Noirs sparkling winesdeserve the description of ‘perfect’. www.biltmore.com


TRAVEL

THE SURPRISING WINE COUNTRY OF

North CarolinaLike a modern-day explorer, Hubrecht Duijker went to North Carolina on aquest to discover a new world of fine wines. In this American state, 87 newwineries have opened their doors in the last 11 years. But how do they rate interms of quality and originality?

www.hubrechtduijker.com

TEXT AND PHOTOS: HUBRECHT DUIJKER

The surprising wine country of North Carolina


SHELTON VINEYARDS - A BIT OFCALIFORNIA IN NORTH CAROLINA

YADKIN VALLEY’S LARGEST WINERY WAS FOUNDED BY THE RACING-CAR

DRIVER RICHARD CHILDRESS

What problems do we have growing grapevines?

All of them!” exclaims Murphy Moore, the wine-

maker for Shelton Vineyards, one of North

Carolina’s top wineries. One of the fundamental problems is

clear on the day of our visit - cloudy weather, which is not ideal

for sun-loving grapes. Humidity, both in the soil and the air, is

another problem as it increases the risk of mould. Then there is

the Japanese beetle, which attacks grape leaves, and other pests

such as grape-eating bees. Not to mention spring frosts.

Winegrowing is a challenge here. As in the other southern states,

one might expect to find hybrid and American grape varieties,

which are more resistant. But in the Yadkin Valley river basin

near Winston-Salem, the viticultural area where Shelton

Vineyards is established, only high-quality French varieties and

some German Riesling are grown. This winemaker’s success here

is due to care, precision and skill in working around the limita-

tions. “Organic cultivation is impossible here,” states Murphy.

However, weeds are grown as a cover crop between the more

than 100,000 vines in the 120-acre (around 48 hectares)

vineyard in order to decrease humidity.

YADKIN VALLEY AVAShelton Vineyards was started by two brothers, Charlie and Ed

Shelton, successful businessmen who at 64 and 59 years old

respectively decided to develop a vineyard on land they had

acquired near Dobson in northwestern North Carolina. The first

vines were planted 13 years ago, and today the annual production

is between 22,000 and 26,000 cases. The gentle, verdant hills

that dominate the Yadkin Valley are underlain by soil of

decomposed granite, sandstone and, principally, red clay. This

last is responsible for the reddish-brown colour of the Yadkin

River, which gives its name to the 1.4 million acre (over half a

million hectares) region, of which 400 acres (around 160

hectares) are planted with vines. In 2003, the region became an

official appellation - Yadkin Valley American Viticultural Area -

partly thanks to the efforts of the Shelton brothers.

PREMIER WINESA Sunday brunch at the Harvest Grill, the Shelton Vineyards

restaurant, allowed us to try four wines (wine flight: 5 dollars),

among which we enjoyed a pleasant full-bodied dry rosé

mainly made from Cabernet Franc, and an astonishing

medium-bodied fresh and spicy Sauvignon Blanc with hints

of green fruit.

In the popular Californian-style tasting room, Murphy Moore

serves some other notable wines, among them three juicy

Chardonnays, two matured in oak and one in stainless steel. We

‘’


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also tried a refreshing Blanc de Blancs also made from

Chardonnay, which merrily froths into the glass, and a mild,

fresh, pure Riesling that is one of their bestsellers. “I recently

tried it with smoked trout, and it was fantastic!” our hostess

confesses enthusiastically. Shelton Vineyards also makes red

wines, the best of which was a tasty Cabernet Franc of ripe

berries and controlled oak, and a smokey, concentrated

Cabernet Sauvignon. To finish, we tried a blackberry-laden

“Port” made mainly from Cabernet Franc.

A TOUCH OF TANNAT So it seems that western North Carolina is capable of producing

superior wines. To confirm our first impressions, we continued

our exploration, driving north to Mount Airy, a small town that

was the birthplace of the actor and singer Andy Griffith (of The

Andy Griffith Show and Matlock). In the quaint main street we

visited the Old North State Winery, which started as a cooperative

in 2002 and is now fully owned by Ben Webb. He grows 60% of

the grapes for his wines and buys in the rest. More than half of

WINEMAKER MURPHY MOORE WITHHER BESTSELLING SHELTON RIESLING

AT SHELTON VINEYARDS’ HARVEST GRILL YOU CAN TRY A FLIGHT OF FOUR DIFFERENT WINES FOR 5 DOLLARS



the 15,000 cases the winery produces is sweet Muscadine from

the sandy eastern part of the state. Muscadine is a tough-skinned

American variety that is well adapted to warm and humid climates.

However, Ben Webb’s specialty is Tannat. This variety, found

notably in southwest France’s Madiran AOC and in Uruguay,

results in a fleshy wine with dark fruit aromas. The Old North

State Winery barrel-aged 2007 Tannat is a surprising and

enjoyable wine with controlled oak. Planting more Tannat is

planned - a good decision, based on this wine.

FROM TOBACCO TO WINENext we headed slowly south on a small rural road to arrive

in drowsy Boonville, where RagApple Lassie Vineyards is

established. This winery, selected as a Best New Winery in the

USA finalist by the Wine Appreciation Guild of San Francisco,

didn’t start as a hobby, but as a necessity. Its owner Frank

Hobson previously grew tobacco on his family farm, but in the

last decades, demand dropped so dramatically that the existence

of his farm was at stake. So when his wife Lenna proposed

replacing the tobacco with grapevines, Frank took up the

guantlet. After a year’s preparation - ploughing chalk and nitogen

into the soil, building a cellar based on the winning design of

an architectural student, etc. - the first vines were planted.

Today, the 35 acres (around 14 hectares) of vineyards contain

15 different grape varieties, and the wines have gained a solid

reputation. We tried a smooth, fresh, apricoty Viognier, a lightly

smokey Pinot Gris, and a spicy and fruity Cabernet Sauvignon.

Other tobacco plantations in western North Carolina have also

been converted to vineyards. Neil Shore, almost a neighbour of

the Hobsons, started his 15-acre (six hectare) Sanders Ridge

Vineyard after 40 years of tobacco farming. It has a chalet for

wine tasting and a restauarant.

A RACY WINEFarther to the south, near Lexington (the ‘Barbecue Capital of

the World’), Childress Vineyards makes an impression with

its tasting room, built in the style of a Spanish bodega. On

weekends, the parking area is full. This is the region’s biggest

BEN WEBB, THE OWNER AND WINE-MAKER AT THE OLD NORTH STATEWINERY, SPECIALISES IN TANNAT

EX-TOBACCO FARMER NEIL SHORE CREATED SANDERS RIDGE VINEYARD,COMPLETE WITH TASTING ROOM AND RESTAURANT


TRAVEL

winery, with an annual production of 32,000 cases. Most of the

grapes for its wines are grown in its own 77-acre (31 hectare)

vineyards. The winery was started as a hobby by racing-car

driver and NASCAR teamowner Richard Childress, who had

ENJOYING A LAZY NORTH CAROLINA SUNDAY AFTERNOON

AT SHELTON VINEYARDS

learned to appreciate wines in California. We were impressed by

the delicious Childress Viognier and the pure Chardonnay

Victory Cuvée bubbly, which pairs perfectly with the exquisite

quiche in the panoramic Childress Bistro.

We also stopped at Westbend Vineyards, which was a pioneer in

growing French grape varieties in this region. However, except

for a reasonable Viognier, all the dry wines fell short of our

expectations. This is perhaps not surprising, as their former

winemaker, the talented Steve Shephard, has moved to RayLen

Vineyards, a 40-acre (16 hectare) estate that exploits solar

panels to produce some of their energy needs. The RayLen Brut

(with a hint of Californian Pinot Meunier), the Barrel

Chardonnay, the Viognier, the Cabernet Franc, the Shiraz and

the bestselling Category 5 (Cabernet Sauvignon and four other

varieties) all deserve a mention.

CHIANTI IN THE CAROLINASTo finish our trip, we drove to the Swan Creek region of the

Yadkin Valley, an enclave that was officially recognised as its own

RAFFALDINI VINEYARDS IN SWAN CREEK HAS A TUSCAN-STYLE WINERY AND TASTING ROOM


NORTH CAROLINA IN NUMBERS

• POPULATION OVER 8.5 MILLION• WINERIES 109 (IN 2011)• VINEYARDS 720 HECTARES (1,800 ACRES)

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT www.visitncwine.com

American Viticultural Area in 2008. Known as the Chianti of the

Carolinas, Swan Creek AVA has vineyards growing at a higher

altitude on steeper slopes with distinct soils that contain schist,

mica and other minerals. There are only five wineries in Swan

Creek, among them Raffaldini Vineyards, with its Tuscan-style

villa splendidly situated on a hill overlooking almost 44 acres of

vineyards planted with mainly Italian varieties. The winery,

founded by Jay Raffaldini and his sister Barbara as a retirement

project, features a range of Italian-style wines, like a fresh Pinot

Grigio, although they also buy in some non-Italian varieties.

Among the wines that caught our attention on the tropical day

we visited were a red berry, spicy Miscale di Vigna made from

Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Petite Syrah, and

a smooth rosé frizzante, made from Petit Manseng, Traminette

and Malbec, which gives it a soft pale colour. These fruity,

refreshing, appealing wines are proof of the quality of what

North Carolina is producing today. The good and surprising

wines we discovered here were well worth the journey.

THE WINERY OF RAGAPPLE LASSIEVINEYARDS (NAMED AFTER A MILK COW)

RAGAPPLE LASSIE VINEYARDS’ LENNA HOBSON WORKS FULL TIME

AT THE WINERY

WHERE IT ALL STARTED IN YADKIN VALLEY: WESTBEND VINEYARDS


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FAMILY BUSINESS

www.torreswines.com

Miguel Torres: From Spain to the World

MIGUEL AGUSTÍN TORRES RIERA REPRESENTS THE FOURTH GENERATION OF

TORRES FAMILY WINEMAKERS

One might be forgiven for taking the wines of Miguel Torres for granted.Founded in 1870 in the Penedès region of Spain, Torres now has wineries in threecountries - Spain, Chile, and the United States - and produces some 65 labels fromover a dozen appellations.

Today, Miguel Torres wines are found in 140 countrieswith sales passing € 200 million. Torres is Spain’s largestwine company. Casual drinkers as well as those who

fancy themselves aficianados of small production, terroir-drivenwines don’t often look beyond Torres’s most popular, inexpensiveofferings, most notably the ubiquitous Sangre de Toro, with thesmall plastic bull tied to its neck. But for those who pay attention(and some important people really do), other Torres wines - singlevineyard, and often small production - are among the finestproduced in Spain, and arguably, the world.

What is not always appreciated is that Torres is resolutely a familywinery. Members of the Torres family are intimately involved inthe operation of each winery, from those in Catalonia and otherparts of Spain, to the Russian River Valley of California, toregions in Chile. The company is currently headed up by MiguelAgustín Torres Riera, representing the fourth generation of Torresfamily winemakers. His brother Juan Maria is the company’s vicepresident and founder of a division that specialises in thedistribution of wines, spirits, and gourmet foods. Miguel’s sisterMarimar is president of Marimar Estates in California’s RussianRiver Valley. Miguel’s daughter Mireia is a scientist and enologistwho managed production of Torres wines in different regions ofSpain, including Penedès, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, and Prioratand is now general manager of Torres-owned Jean Leon andTorres Priorat. Miguel’s son, also named Miguel, runs Torresoperations in Chile.

Now 70 years old, Miguel Torres recognizes there are challengesto running a family business. Succession is one of them. When hewas 40, he stepped away from the company for a year when hisfather, then in charge, hesitated to yield some control. Time awaysettled things, but Miguel is firm in his belief in the tremendousadvantages to be found in family businesses, too. Citing the



L-R: MARIMAR TORRES, ARNAU TORRES,

JUAN MARÍA TORRES, WALTRAUD MACZASSEK,

MIREIA TORRES-MACZASSEK AND MIGUEL A. TORRES.

FOREGROUND: MIGUEL TORRES-MACZASSEK

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Until the early 1950’s, Torres wines were shipped mostly in bulk.Shifting to bottled wine allowed for the building of the Torresbrand. No longer would Torres be producing “Chablis” or“Burgundy” (the company was certainly not the first or only inSpain to do this), but rather, distinctly Spanish wine. In caseanyone doubted that fact, the release of Sangre de Toro in 1954,decorated with a small plastic bull hanging from its neck,certainly settled the issue. Indeed, it might be said that Torrescreated the export market for Spanish wine that went beyondsherry and an occasional Rioja.

Miguel Torres Carbó was great salesman, but his son MiguelTorres was a precocious visionary in the realm of vineyard andwinemaking. His studies in France gave him an appreciation forsound vineyard practices, grape selection, sanitation andtemperature controls in the winery. He was the first in Spain tointroduce temperature-controlled fermentation tanks, and hegrasped the concept of terroir. In 1965, aged 24, he convinced hisfather to purchase the Mas La Plana vineyard in Penedés andplant Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that was practically non-existent in Spain before. In 1979, the 1970 vintage of theresulting wine (Gran Coronas Mas La Plana) earned first prize inthe Gault-Millau wine olympiad in Paris, beating premier andgrand cru wines from Bordeaux.

In the same year, Miguel Torres journeyed to the Americas in

search of opportunities. He saw extraordinary potential in Chile

current depressed economy, he asks, rhetorically, “Were there anyfamily businesses that caused the crisis? No.” He continues thatpublicly-traded companies focus on the short term, for quarterlygains and bonuses: “Long term projects are verydifficult…Would a [stock] company plant vineyards and start awinery in Priorat, knowing there wouldn’t be returns for another20 years? No way.” Ironically, though focusing on the long term,he also notes that family companies have the nimbleness tomake quick decisions. “If there is a need to do something, we candiscuss, compromise, decide, and do it quickly.”

While always a family firm, the Torres company had aninternational reach from the beginning. Capital for the winerycame from oil company investments in Latin America. From thestart, the company exported wine to Cuba, and in the early partof the 20th century, to the United States. The early goal was to bea reliable supplier of wine of good-enough quality to satisfymarket needs, but perhaps not to gain the attention of theconnoisseur, and Torres did so with aplomb. As Jay McIneney ofthe Wall Street Journal reported, soon after the German invasionof France in 1940, Miguel Torres’s father, Miguel Torres Carbó,contacted importers in New York to guarantee supplies ofSpanish “Chablis” and “Burgundy” (respect for appellation rulesdidn’t exist outside of France then) as French wines becameunavailable. Soon, Mr. Torres Carbó expanded his business bypurchasing wines and grapes from other Penedès producers andexporting them to the U.S. and other countries.

MARIMAR TORRES AND DAUGHTER CRISTINA AT MARIMAR ESTATE (RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, CALIFORNIA)


FAMILY BUSINESS

and purchased 100 hectares in the often-overlooked region of

Curicó. Torres Chile has subsequently purchased more land in

Curicó, as well as in Empredado, 180 kilometres southwest, an

area whose steep slopes and slate soils closely resemble those in

Catalonia’s esteemed Priorat region. In 1982, Torres acquired

land in Sonoma, in California’s Russian River Valley, leading

to the eventual creation of Marimar Estates, operated by Marimar

Torres, Miguel’s sister. Vineyard plantings and the establishment

of new wineries was not limited to the Americas. Vineyards were

expanded and wineries opened in the Penedès, other parts of

the Catalan region (including Priorat and Conca de Barberà)

and Spain in general (including Rioja, Ribera de Duero, Toro,

and Jumilla).

The Torres family also established import and distribution

companies in Sweden, India, and China, either alone or as joint

ventures. Torres investments in China started in 1997 with the

aim of importing and distributing the wines of Torres and others.

The company now represents several important European

winemakers (the Baron Philippe de Rothschild group has a 10%

stake). A decade later, Torres collaborated with local producers

Grace and Silver Heights Vineyards to make wine in China. Thelatest Torres China venture is the opening of over 60 Evergreenretail wine outlets by the end of 2013.

Given the breadth of Torres’s international activities, it is indeedremarkable that the family still retains such control. Of course,they have representatives in the places they do business, butMiguel Torres lists a number of points which the family considersof prime importance:

1) Respecting the people who work for Torres, listening to theirconcerns and paying them fairly. Torres notes that while salarieswere frozen during the crisis, which has hit Spain especially hard,he offered workers more flexible schedules. Additionally, whilenot required by Spanish law, Torres annually contributes 900,000euros to pensions.

2) Being environmentally conscious, minimizing or eliminatingthe use of synthetic chemicals, using solar and wind energy,reducing the company’s carbon-footprint by 30% from 2008levels by 2020, and other initiatives. Torres is actively enlistingother Spanish wineries to do the same.

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VINEYARD AND VOLCANO VIEWS AT TORRESCHILE'S FUNDO CORDILLERA



3) Fair Trade

4) Doing charitable work through the Miguel Torres Foundation,building schools and orphanages in the US, Latin America,Spain, Africa, India, China and the Philippines, and providingdisaster relief in various parts of the world.

5) Maintaining customer relations by visiting clients around theworld at least once, and often several times, per year.

6) Research, development and innovation.

7) Staying close to consumers, especially through the food andwine experience. Torres has vinotecas serving tapas and Torreswines in Chile, China, and Spain.

8) Keeping the family united.

Though Miguel Torres doesn’t mention it specifically among hislist of essentials, a vital element in the success of Torres’ successis its connection to the land. Beyond the green initiatives ofwhich Torres is especially proud, the company has dedicatedtremendous resources to the protection and cultivation ofindigenous grape varieties, especially in Catalonia, where there ispressure for international-styled wines made from internationalgrape varieties. It is ironic that a winery recognized a pioneer forCabernet Sauvignon (Gewurztraminer, too) in the region wouldtake up this challenge, but it certainly has, researching historicvarieties such as Samsó, Cariñena/Mazuelo, Garró, Monastrell,and replanting them in opportune areas. “It’s a history we have aresponsibility to protect,” says Sr. Torres. Like many otherwinemakers these days, he is greatly concerned about climatechange. The company has been running controlled experimentsabout the effects of increased temperatures on its properties forthe last few years and has scouted land in the Pyrénées currentlytoo cool to ripen grapes properly as a contingency for the future.But time will tell.

Now 70 years old, Miguel Torres is still actively involved in allaspects of the business, tasting, travelling, visiting, and planningfor the future. Succession will soon be an issue. Fortunately, twoof his three children, Mireia and Miguel Jr., both have the skillsand experience to assume the leading position (the third, Ana, isa physician). There are also grandchildren, still too young to beinvolved, but among them will surely be someone to take Torreswell past the middle of the century.

Jamal Rayyis

MIGUEL TORRES22, Villafranca del Penedès - 08720 Barcelona - Spain

Tel. +34 93 817 7400 - www.torreswines.com

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THE TORRES VISITORS CENTERIN CHILE


WINE GROWER PORTRAITSwww.kleinconstantia.com • www.shannonwines.com • www.mullineuxwines.com

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From historic Constantia to two relatively new winegrowing

appellations, “cool” Elgin and “hot” Swartland (both literally and

figuratively), Joanne Gibson provides a snapshot of three South

African winegrowers as they finish the 2012 harvest.

Cape harvest of good hope

BY JOANNE GIBSON

MATTHEW DAY (RIGHT) AND VITICULTURISTSTIAAN CLOETE OF KLEIN CONSTANTIA



KLEIN CONSTANTIA: HISTORY IN THE MAKINGConstantia near Cape Town is the cradle of South African wine,

its vineyards planted by governor Simon van der Stel in 1685; its

lusciously sweet wines enjoyed by Napoleon, Frederick the Great,

King Louis Philippe and King George IV, and written about by

Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock, Jane Austen, Charles Baudelaire

and Charles Dickens. The Vin de Constance “brand” was famous,

in fact, before Champagne or even the Médoc rose to prominence,

which is why attempts have been made in recent years -successfully -

to recreate this lusciously sweet wine at Klein Constantia, a beautiful

estate that once formed part of Van der Stel’s original

Amsterdam-sized property.

Klein Constantia has had several owners over the centuries, the

Jooste family having most recently sold it to Czech-born Zdenek

Bakala and UK-based Charles Harman. It has also now undergone

a change of winemaker, with Adam Mason’s move to

Mulderbosch in December having left big shoes for former

assistant winemaker Matthew Day to fill.

AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA, 2012 HAS BEENEXCEPTIONALLY GOOD FOR WHITES

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But Matt is confident: “After spending three years in the cellar

with Adam, I know he and I have similar palates, and I know

exactly what to do with the Vin de Constance, which is such a

unique wine that it would have been difficult to bring in a new

winemaker.” Most importantly, he and viticulturist Stiaan Cloete

know their vineyards - planted on the undulating foothills

sandwiched between the upmarket suburb of Constantia and the

mountainous backbone of Table Mountain National Park. “Klein

Constantia has its own climate,” he laughs. “Some days it rains

here and nowhere else in Cape Town. And there are so many

different slopes and aspects and soils that every block has to be

kept separate throughout the entire winemaking process - these

are the building blocks that give our wines complexity.”

For the Vin de Constance, the winegrowing team moved through

the Muscat de Frontignan blocks as many as eight times, picking

only the ripest bunches along with shrivelled, concentrated raisins.

For the Sauvignon Blanc, which is regarded as one of South

Africa’s best examples, Matt reveals that the first block was

harvested on 9 February and the last on 8 March. “It’s been a long

ripening season, giving us more complex, tropical flavours than

pyrazine-driven greenness.”

QUALIFIED MARINE BIOLOGIST JAMES DOWNES FIRST PLANTED VINES ON

THE FARM IN 2000


WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

Although it’s been a tough vintage for red wines, characterised by

uneven ripening, Matt and Stiaan agree that 2012 has been

exceptionally good for whites. “Both yields and quality have

exceeded our expectations. Warm weather in October induced

root growth, which helps with fertility as well as bunch and aroma

development, and this was followed by an abnormally cool

growing season. It was also unusually dry, but for Constantia,

which is always too wet and cold, these dryer conditions were a

positive factor, resulting in the proper phenolic ripeness of the

grapes. Analysing what we have in tank so far, we are very happy.”

Using micro-oxygenation for his Sauvignon Blanc and monitoring

natural fermentation for an unexpectedly high yield of young

Riesling, it appears Matt’s confidence knows no bounds - he even

reveals that he has planted some vines on his parents’ sheep farm

near Johannesburg! It’s a confidence that hopefully bodes well

for this historic estate as it enters a new era.

SHANNON VINEYARDS: CHILL FACTORUntil the dawn of democracy in South Africa, winegrowing was

cooperative-controlled according to a quota system, with

winegrowing restricted to “traditional” areas like Stellenbosch

and Paarl. It was only after industry deregulation in the early

1990s that new cultivation zones could be developed - including

the cool upland ward of Elgin.

Situated on a plateau and surrounded by mountains, this pretty

“basin” just inland from the Cape South Coast was traditionally

famous for apples and pears - and one of its well-established

KLEIN CONSTANTIA'S VINES LIE BETWEENCONSTANTIA AND

TABLE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

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KLEIN CONSTANTIATel. +27 21 794 5188

www.kleinconstantia.com

on par with if not better than the great 2009 vintage,” he predicts.

“It was one of the coldest Elgin winters for many years, allowing

the vines to go into proper dormancy. Winter rainfall is never a

problem for Elgin, which has some of the highest winter rainfall

figures, but there were also sufficient follow-up rains in spring to

retain soil moisture for the rest of the season.”

Although cool weather during flowering delayed fruit set, causing

some unevenness, he says heat waves early in January helped

bring on veraison. “This narrowed up the unevenness from the

uneven flowering, and also stopped the vines growing, so not

much tipping and topping was required.” Apart from that early

spike in temperature, January, February and March were

very dry yet cool: “We had 11 nights where night time temperatures

of below 13˚C were celebrated. On 16 February it was 8.83˚C -

not something that many other wine regions in South Africa

can boast!”

HOPES ARE THAT 2012 WILL BE ON PAR WITHIF NOT BETTER THAN 2009

farms was Dunmanway, owned by the Downes family. They had

always had an interest in wine, some of their forefathers having

been wine merchants and owned a number of pubs in London.

But it was young James Downes, a qualified marine biologist,

who first planted vines on the farm in 2000, first using

Geographic Information System technology to identify 17

different soil types as well as slopes with south, southeast, east

and northeast aspects, then doing two independent vineyard

planting surveys to make sure the right grapes were planted in the

right place on what was now called Shannon Vineyards.

Needless to say, James quickly acquired a reputation for being

one of the most meticulous growers around, his Merlot, Pinot

Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier bought by top

producers including Neil Ellis and Newton Johnson; his own

Mount Bullet Merlot almost overnight setting a benchmark for a

variety that struggles in South Africa; his Rockview Ridge Pinot

Noir, Sanctuary Peak Sauvignon Blanc and Macushla Pinot Noir

Noble Late Harvest now also very highly regarded.

Chairman of the Elgin Valley Wine Guild (www.elginwine.co.za),

James expects good things from this year’s harvest: “2012 will be



UNUSUAL GUARDS ON PATROL AT SHANNON VINEYARDS

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Although the “beautifully clean” Pinot Noir was harvested 12

days later than last year, he says the alcohols are going to be

low-ish despite the extra hang-time - around 12.5 to 13%.

Likewise, the Sauvignon Blanc has “riper flavours with great acid

levels” while the Semillon is “looking beautiful” - leading James

to describe 2012 as a “brilliant textbook year” even though in

mid-March he was still crossing his fingers for the Viognier

(“looking gorgeous”) and the Merlot (“should be picked last

week in March”). His conclusion: “If all goes well, I advise

everyone buy 2012 Elgin wines en primeur.”

MULLINEUX FAMILY WINES:GOLDEN HARVESTThe gracious whitewashed gables and manicured green lawns of

South Africa’s traditional wine areas are few and far between in

the Swartland, a large and fairly rustic wine district northwest of

Paarl that is suddenly producing some of South Africa’s most

exciting wines.

Traditionally this is wheat country, burnt golden beneath a

relentless sun, the foothills of jagged mountain peaks dotted

with bush vines that were planted decades ago with bulk wine

and distillation in mind.

In recent years, however, these once-neglected vineyards have

attracted a new generation of winemakers, not only convinced

that grapes from old, unirrigated vines tend to result in the most

intensely flavourful and complex of wines, but also determined

to make wines in a more “natural” way.

The newcomers include Chris and Andrea Mullineux who got to

know the Swartland while sourcing organically grown grapes for

their previous employers. “It’s so easy to be organic in the

Swartland that there’s almost no excuse not to be,” reckons

Andrea, who grew up in San Francisco and studied Viticulture

and Oenology at UC Davis. “We work with a select group

of growers who follow sustainable, reasoned farming practices,


WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

and in the cellar, apart from minimal amounts of sulphur,

nothing is added to, or removed from, our wines.”

It’s an approach that saw this new, small cellar receive accolades

including 5 Star ratings for all three of its signature wines in the

2012 Platter’s Guide to South African Wines (which only top-sco-

red 45 wines out of over 7,000 tasted). “The recognition is not

only great for us, but also for the entire Swartland region, a place

we are passionate about,” was Andrea’s response. So what does

she expect from vintage 2012? “May and June 2011 were wet and

cold, perfect post-harvest conditions for replenishing ground

CHRIS AND ANDREA MULLINEUX - MULLINEUX FAMILY WINES

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water and kicking the vines into dormancy. But then the rains

stopped! August, September and October were dry and mild, so

we had early bud break and the vines just did not produce as

many clusters - I would say an average of 20-30% down. Luckily

there were sporadic big rains in spring, with perfect intervals so

that the ground got a good soaking but there wasn’t much

disease pressure.

an early harvest flew out the window when December remained

cool. “Finally we had a heat wave in January that kicked off veraison,

but it happened quite unevenly so most vineyards needed have

some green harvesting done. The start of harvest was delayed by

only a week or so, but a relatively cool February stretched it

out and we finished on 6 March - about three weeks later

than normal.”

Although she says Swartland winemakers will need to be careful

in handling their fruit, because of the uneven ripening, she says

she and Chris are very happy: “We feel the whites will have extra

complexity and the alcohols on the reds should be lower than

normal, mostly because we could take our time bringing in the

grapes. There was no rush.” Which sounds just about perfect for

an area as laidback as the Swartland. �

Already confident about quality because the lower yields had

partially manifested as smaller berries, which usually means

“awesome” fruit concentration, Andrea says her predictions for

SWARTLAND, A LARGE AND FAIRLY RUSTIC WINE DISTRICT, IS SUDDENLY PRODUCING SOME OF SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST EXCITING WINES

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MULLINEUX FAMILY WINESTel. +27 22 448 1183

www.mullineuxwines.com


WINE AND FOOD

La Côte Saint Jacques…A family affair, from Marie to Jean-Michel

www.cotesaintjacques.com

Marie Lorain’s family guesthouseopened in 1945 in a large, bourgeoishouse in Joigny and was called LaCôte Saint Jacques, after the hilllocated immediately behind; it isnow only a distant memory. But it isone that her grandson, Jean-Michel,has not forgotten. Today, he is theacclaimed chef of a restaurant withwhich three generations of Lorainshave scaled the heights of internationalgourmet cuisine.

In 1958, Michel (Marie’s son) took over the family business

with his wife Jacqueline. The building of a nearby motorway

forced them to refurbish the premises. The restaurant

became more luxurious and the menu much more sophisticated.

In 1971, the first Michelin star rewarded the couple’s efforts

and five years later, Michelin upped the honours by adding

another star.

In 1983, after an initial stint in Joigny, Jean-Michel Lorain joined

his father permanently as a chef after learning the ropes with

Pierre and Jean Troisgros in Roanne, followed by a year’s training

in the kitchens of the Taillevent restaurant in Paris alongside

Claude Deligne, and 18 months with Fredy Girardet in Crissier,

Switzerland. He gradually worked his way up the ranks of

the team at La Côte Saint Jacques before imposing his own style

and ideas.

In 1986, Michelin awarded a third star to La Côte Saint Jacques

in recognition of the combined efforts of father and son. At 27,

Jean-Michel became the youngest chef to achieve three Michelin

stars and his ethos has remained unchanged: “To sell happiness


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A family affair, from Marie to Jean-Michel


RECIPESERVES 4 • Ingredients

• 12 medium-sized scallops• 24 rectangular pieces of Iberian ham 1 cm/3.5 cm

• 1 bunch of garden cress• 1 bunch of watercress• 20 dried butternut squash seeds• Butternut squash oil• Rice vinegar• Salt and pepper

PREPARATION TIME2 hoursCooking time for the scallops: roughly 2 min.

VICHYSSOISE• 300 g of Jerusalem artichoke juice• 60 g of potatoes• 30 g of cream• Rind of the Iberian ham

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES• 200 g of Jerusalem artichokes• ¼ l of chicken stock• 20 g of fresh butter

Method• To make the vichyssoise: put the Jerusalem artichokes in the juiceextractor to obtain 150g of juice. • Bake the potatoes then peel and sieve them to obtain 40g of flesh. • In a saucepan, mix the juice from the Jerusalem artichokes, thepotato flesh and the cream. Bring to the boil then blend. • Add the strips of Iberian ham and leave to infuse for 30 min.Season, put through the strainer and set aside in the fridge.• Peel the remaining Jerusalem artichokes, chop them into largechunks and put them in a saucepan with the butter to cook, beingcareful not to brown. After 5 min., add the chicken stock, cook foraround 15 min., drain then mash roughly with a fork. Leave to cool.• Cut the scallops in half thickness-wise. Put them in the fridgewrapped in a cloth. • Cut the slices of Iberian ham into rectangles the size indicated inthe list of ingredients. • Wash and sort the watercress and cress.

Finishing stage• Check the seasoning of the vichyssoise and give it a tang byadding a little rice vinegar. • Warm the mashed Jerusalem artichokes and season with salt,pepper and rice vinegar.• Pan-fry the scallops in the butter, browning them on both sides.Drain them on a cloth.• Season the watercress and cress with a little salt, pepper, ricevinegar and butternut squash oil.

Presentation• Make a small ring with the mashed Jerusalem artichokes on asoup plate. Place 8 scallop slices on top with alternate pieces ofIberian ham. • Put the watercress and cress in the middle of the plate and thevichyssoise around the galette. Sprinkle a few drops of butternutsquash oil over the vichyssoise.• Decorate with the butternut squash seeds.

Scallop galettes with Iberian ham, Jerusalem artichoke vichyssoise with a side salad of watercressdressed with butternut squash oil

Serve with a Chablis Grand Cru for a local match,

or with a famous white wine from the Côte de

Beaune (Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault...).

And for pleasure only: with a vintage champagne

CHAMPAGNEDrappier MillésimeException 2004Light gold. Profound, complexnose blending stone fruits, driedfruits, pastries and patisserie-like notes. Wonderfulfleshy, full entry. Well-structured yet melted and extre-mely persistent. A nicely-crafted Champagne that worksequally well as an appetiser or with food.

93/100


AT 27, JEAN-MICHELLORAINBECAME THEYOUNGESTCHEF TOACHIEVETHREEMICHELINSTARS


WINE AND FOOD

and pleasure to my clients”. La Côte Saint Jacques is a family

achievement and not just the success of one man at one point in

time. It is a saga of which his daughters Marine and Alexandra,

born in 1987 and 1990, may soon write the next chapter. Until

then, Jean-Michel's star-studded career continues with accolades

such as “Chef of the Year” in 1993 and the outstanding score of

19.5 out of 20 from Gault & Millau. It was at this time that he

officially took over from his father.

In 2000/2001, the dining area was transferred to the banks of the

Yonne and six new guestrooms were created with a riverside view.

The restaurant then lost one of its Michelin stars, only to retrieve

it three years later. La Côte Saint Jacques thus returned to the

exclusive circle of France’s most highly-acclaimed restaurants,

which boasts just 26 members.

Sylvain Patard

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AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

Jean-Michel Lorain has always set the pace for cookery courses:he opened a dedicated school in 1996, spurred on by

the success of the lessons he taught for years to the wives of his most loyal patrons.

THE SCHOOL OFFERS THREE DIFFERENT MODULESINTERACTIVE: providing hands-on experience, both in the kitchenand the restaurant, followed by a meal with the chef.DEMONSTRATION: in a custom-designed room, the chef explainsthe techniques that allow cooks to master a recipe. This modulealso includes a visit to discover the vineyards of Chablis.IMMERSION: students spend the entire sitting in the restaurant'skitchen, followed by lunch with the chef so that he can answer theirquestions.

La Côte Saint Jacques14, faubourg de Paris - 89300 Joigny

Tel. +33 (0)3 86 62 09 70 - www.cotesaintjacques.com

THE DINING AREA WAS TRANSFERREDTO THE BANKS OF THE YONNE AND SIX

NEW GUESTROOMS WERE CREATED

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When we think of the greatest Bordeaux red wines we

often conjure the region of the Médoc along the Left

Bank of the Gironde River. After all, the Médoc

holds the greatest number of highly ranked appellations (Saint-

Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien and Margaux) and châteaux (Château

Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-

Brion) in the Bordeaux region.

However, on the Right Bank is the Saint-Emilion appellation that has

both an older and more recent history than the Médoc, a slightly

different structure to its wines, and which produces some of the

finest wines in all of Bordeaux.

The Romans first grew vines in Saint-Emilion, centuries before

anyone cultivated grapes in the Médoc region. In fact, UNESCO has

named Saint-Emilion a World Heritage site for being the oldest

cultivated terroir in Bordeaux. Winemakers in Saint-Emilion have

been exporting their product since the 12th century. However, in the

first half of the 20th century the wines of Saint-Emilion were

overshadowed by the wines of the Médoc that had been officially

classified by the French government in 1855, under Napoleon III.

During this period many winemakers in Saint-Emilion and the

entire Right Bank had noticed that the Merlot grape was especially

well suited to their terroir, and that it added a smoothness to the

wine made from the dominant Cabertnet Sauvignon and Cabernet

Franc grapes. Many growers wanted to grow a higher percentage of

Merlot grapes. In 1956 there was a frost that reduced the harvest

which drove prices of the wine up. Finally, it was possible to invest

in replanting Merlot grapes. This slightly changed the style of wines

made on the Right Bank virtually overnight.

Saint-Emilion wines were first classified in 1958 which brought the

spotlight back onto the wines of this appellation (Saint-Emilion

Grand Cru). The wines were classified into two categories: Premier

Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé. The highest ranked châteaux

in Saint-Emilion are Ausone and Cheval Blanc, which rank amongst

the top château in all of Bordeaux.


WINE QUOTATIONS

THE CURRENT PREMIER GRAND CRU CLASSÉWINES ARE:

PREMIERS GRANDSCRUS CLASSÉS AChâteau AusoneChâteau Cheval BlancPREMIERS GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS BChâteau AngélusChâteau Beau-Séjour BécotChâteau Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse)Château BelairChâteau CanonChâteau FigeacChâteau La GaffelièreChâteau MagdelaineChâteau PavieChâteau Pavie-MacquinChâteau Troplong-MondotChâteau TrottevieilleClos Fourtet

There are 68 current GrandCru Classé wines.

Enjoy exploring the differencebetween Saint- Emilion winesand wines from across theGironde River.

Philippe Roux

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Philippe Roux is a specialist in theniche market of rare vintages

Just what is it that makes this Right Bank appellationso very special?

The magic of Saint-Emilion

The magic of Saint-Emilion


SAINT-EMILION

YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION CURRENT RANKING VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.1904 CHEVAL BLANC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé A 0.75 l 2997,49

1920 CADET BON Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 246,66

1925 MARZELLE (LA) Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 250,00

1925 PAVIE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 413,88

1933 GAFFELIERE (LA) NAUDES Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 325,25

1938 CHEVAL BLANC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé A 0.75 l 750,84

1938 CLOS FOURTET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 372,07

1938 SAINT GEORGES Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 216,56


1942 CLOS FOURTET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 333,61

1943 CORBIN MICHOTTE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 213,21


1945 GAUBERT Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 250,00

1945 HAUT PONTET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 291,81

1947 HAUT TRIMOULET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 207,36

1947 SOUTARD Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 249,16


1951 AUSONE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé A 0.75 l 831,94

1952 BEAUSEJOUR Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 191,47

1952 CLOS LACROIX Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 129,60

1952 CLOS TRIMOULET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 196,49

1952 CORBIN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 146,32

1954 BEAUSEJOUR Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 300,17

1954 BELAIR Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 250,00


1955 CANON LA GAFFELIERE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 200,67


1955 HAUT SIMARD Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 118,73

1955 TRIMOULET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 0.75 l 191,47

1958 DOMINIQUE (LA) Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 124,58

1958 PAVIE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 275,08

1959 FIGEAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 275,08


1961 CANON LA GAFFELIERE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 250,00


1966 LARCIS DUCASSE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 140,47


1967 CAP DE MOURLIN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 66,05



Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com

Having put operating rooms definitively behind her since leaving the TVseries Grey’s Anatomy, Katherine Heigl, ex-Dr Isobel Stevens, is continuingher unstoppable rise in film. After the success of the raunchy comedyKnocked Up, followed by 27 Dresses, the sexy star found herself a new niche:films that take a shot at everything without taking themselves too seriously.The latest in the line is One for the Money. While waiting for it to hit ourscreens, we asked its star to talk to us about wine.


STARS & WINE


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Now that you’re no longer playing doctors,like in Grey’s Anatomy, you seem tohave taken on roles of overwhelmedmothers or, as in One for the Money, ayoung woman who is downrighthyperactive… It’s true. My character, Stephanie Plum,is not the type to do anything byhalves. She’s a fighter. I don’t know if thischaracter created by Janet Evanovich isknown in Europe. To my knowledge,her bestselling novels haven’t beentranslated into French, but I recommendthat everyone read her adventures.They’re thrilling. I really like thecheeky, gutsy side of Stephanie. And it’snot every day that a person gets to playan unemployed woman who decides tobecome a bounty hunter to change herday-to-day situation!

In your opinion, would you havemade a good bounty hunter in reallife? I don’t think so! I’m too much of acoward and I’m not very patient. Plus Idon’t think it would be compatible with wearing high heels - my guiltypleasure! I would kill my mother andfather just to get another pair!

Kather ine Heigl

Katherine Heigl: “I drink wine in moderation,

and always in good company”


STARS & WINE


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and talks about nothing but horses! Toavoid financial ruin and continue to feed hishabit, he mandates Gus as his straw man, apuppet. Gus becomes his eyes and ears atthe stud farms of California.

You’ve said that you don’t own any horsesand know nothing about them. Yet in LittleBig Man you rode a horse, didn’t you? Yes, that was indeed me! But it depends onhow you define ‘ride’. I probably have theshortest legs of any actor. So I’ll leave you toimagine how difficult it was for me tomount such an animal. It was like my legsstuck straight out on each side of the horse’sback, like a compass, rather than grippingits sides! When the production team had to hoist meonto my loyal steed, they had to use all

In the United States, you’re currentlystarring in Luck, a big-budget TV seriesproduced by HBO. While we wait forthis major drama set in the world ofCalifornian horseracing to hit ourscreens overseas, we wondered how you,a film legend, found yourself in a TVshow?I would really like to tell you that I love thesmell of hay in horse stables or the atmosphereof paddocks, but it’s just not true. In fact, foryears the director Michael Mann and Idreamed of doing something together.Since Straight Time, a film on which Michaelwas a screenwriter, we never stopped callingeach other and trying to find a joint project,but none of the ones that we had in mindcame off. Until the morning when Michaelcontacted me to announce, “I know that youprobably don’t want to do television, butI’ve got a script that’s floored me!” So hesent it to me and I read it in one go - totallyengrossed! For the first time, it didn’t depicthorseracing with the usual clichés: beautifulwomen wearing flamboyant hats, freelyflowing Champagne, rustic images ofthoroughbreds trotting on the beach inslow motion. Luck is not glamorous! Itshows the world of horseracing as it really is -in the rough. A ruthless world, with specificcodes, where you can’t get away withanything! The horseracing world is a verylucrative mini-society. It isn’t easy to getinto, but it’s so very easy to be forced outafter you’ve lost everything.

Tell us a little about your character. You playChester ‘Ace’ Bernstein, a gambler who hasjust served three years in prison.Yes! He’s a fellow to whom it would bebetter not to trust your savings. He would becapable of gambling them away completelyin the next race. Chester is no longer allowedat the racecourse. The courts were very clearabout this. He is persona non grata at thetracks. But he’s a mobster that lives, breathes


Dustin Hoffmann:“I love Italian wine. I love Italy, period”

Dust in Hoffmann

kinds of methods. These ranged from a simplestepladder to a complicated pulley systemthat lifted me from the ground and thenlowered me into the saddle. It was solabour-intensive that of course, once I wasin place, they wanted to optimise the sceneson horseback as much as possible! (Laughs)I spent hours on end on that horse. At theend of the day, when some kind soul deignedto help me down, my leg muscles werecompletely paralysed. They put me in acar and drove me home, where I tookcomfort in drinking a few glasses ofItalian wine. I love Italian wine. I love Italy,period. When I’m there, I don’t drink onlyfine wines, I also like to take in the smellof history, of the land. It makes me feelgood. Terrifically good.


STARS & WINE

Is it true that you’ve quit smoking?It’s the least you can do when you have ababy! To help me stop, I use a strange devicethat gives me a shot of nicotine. I inhale watervapour, but not tar or cancerous substances.

So today you have a very healthy lifestyle? Not really. For that I would also need to detoxfrom bacon! I’m a serious addict! I shoot upwith fat! And not in homeopathic doses!

And is wine another of your addictions?Come on, Katherine, spill the beans! I was wondering when you’d ask that. Ithought it was strange that you hadn’tasked me that question as you’re French!Yes, I drink wine, but never between meals.For me, wine goes with food. That’s howI drink and appreciate it. At home, myparents didn’t drink much. When I got myown place, I started to buy furniture, kitchenthings - I love cooking - and also a few bottlesof wine, because I didn’t want my friends to saythat I didn’t know how to entertain properly!

Who initiated you into wine? How did youlearn to distinguish a good wine from acheap one?

Basically by tasting them! Of course, I madea lot of mistakes. I chose them off the shelvesmore or less randomly. But gradually, I gottaken in less. Mostly I began to understandthat wine is a personal thing and not to takewhat other people think too much intoaccount. Certain people will really appreciatecertain vintages, and others will experiencethem differently. It’s a question of taste. Thatsaid, when you go to a nice restaurant andthe sommelier recommends a particularwine, there’s a good chance that you won’t bedisappointed. It’s in the sommelier’s interestthat you won’t be frustrated and leave withthe open bottle under your arm! That doesn’tgo down too well with the manager! (Laughs)

What advice would you give to someonewho wants to know more about wine?Before reading lots of books and magazines,form your own opinion, even if you feel likeyou have to grope your way along blindly.Admittedly, you’ll spend more time andprobably more money, but the upside is thatyou’ll train your palate. You’ll be able to lookpast the fancy labels and the power ofmerchandising. Sometimes you’ll stumbleacross outstanding vintages even though thebottle isn’t much to look at. And if you endup with a bad wine, you won’t make the samemistake twice! Your brain will remember it.And your wallet will too!

So, as an ex-doctor in Grey’s Anatomy, yourecommend drinking wine! Of course! But in moderation, and always ingood company. That is, with a good mealand/or the love of your life! (Laughs)

European filmgoers first discovered you inMy Father the Hero, an American remakein which Gérard Depardieu played yourfather. Was it fun to make a film with thegreat Gérard? Ah, Gérard. He told me such good stories.He’s an amazing storyteller, you know. Iremember that he didn’t understand a word Isaid to him, apart from when I spoke to himin French with the few basics I’d learned atschool. At the time Gérard didn’t speak aword of English, but that didn’t stop himfrom learning his lines by heart in mylanguage. OK, sometimes he had no ideawhat he was saying, but he did it with somuch talent and conviction!

Interview in Hollywood by Frank ROUSSEAU

Is that why you’ve accepted to be theambassador (in an ad campaign) of the LeMarche region in Italy?Absolutely! The region is paradise on Earth,and my mission is to convince my fellowcitizens to go and vacation there. I fell inlove with the place the very first time thatI went there. From a gastronomic andoenological point of view, Le Marche offersvery tantalising prospects!

The theme of the ad is the famous poem byGiacomo Leopardi ‘L’infinito’, which yourecite against a background of superbimages of the region. Would you be ableto move to Italy tomorrow and becomea winemaker?On paper, it’s an interesting idea, but inreality, you might as well ask me to climbMount Vesuvius wearing flippers! (Laughs)It’s just impossible. I don’t think thatgrowing grapes is necessarily very difficult.However, knowing how to exploit them,press them correctly, bottle the wine andensure that what you produce is goodquality is another ball game. It’s a real art. Idon’t think you can become a winemakerjust by waking up one morning and deci-ding, “Say, why don’t I take up winemaking?”You need to have a good sense of smell, theskill, the means and, above all, the time. Allthe winegrowers I’ve met have confirmedthis. Even if you know what time you’llwake up, you never know what time you’llbe going to bed!

Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU

Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association

Frank Rousseau with Dust in Hoffmann

Kather ine Heigl

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Continued from page 108

Continued from page 109

�

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Don't miss out!

FIRST EDITION

’’This is the first wine guide in Japanese published byrenowned French wine tasters. All the wines are tastedbefore being selected and must score a minimum of75/100.’’

’’They all feature a detailed tasting commentary as wellas serving advice and food pairing recommendations.’’

’’The essential guide for discovering French andEuropean wines!’’

� 560 pages � 2 600 wines presented � 280 Bordeaux vintage 2010 �

� Exhaustive presentation of the French appellations (AOCs) �

PUBLICATION DATE:December 2011


RECOMMENDED WINES

ALSACE


Domaine Pierre Frick 89/100 90 n/a

Eichberg - Vendanges Tardives 2008

Alsace Grand Cru Muscat A.C.

Kuentz-Bas Alsace 89/100 89 n/a

Pfersigberg

Cuvée Caroline 2008

Vendange Tardive 50 cl


Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg 94/100 91 n/a

Vendanges Tardives 2008


Domaine Pierre 91/100 88 n/a

Frick Steinert 2009

BORDEAUX Bordeaux A.C.

Château Loudenne 87 86

BT 84-87

Vintage 2009

Château Thieuley

Vintage2009 86/100 88 n/a

Château Clos Chaumont 86/100 n/a BT 86-89

Vintage 2010

For a comprehensive overview of some great white wines, compare our tastingnotes with those of our well-known American competitors.*

*www.gilbertgaillard.com, *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com

COMPARED & CONTRASTED

WINE SCORES GILBERT & GAILLARD

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for a

pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in

our publications.

n/a = not available BT = Barrel Tasting

Gilbert & Gaillard Robert Parker Wine Spectator




Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2009 88/100 92 90

Château Le Sartre Vintage 2009 88/100 n/a BT 87-90

Domaine de Chevalier Vintage 2010 99/100 92-94 n/a

Château de Fieuzal Vintage 2010 97/100 92-94 n/a

Château Smith Haut-Lafitte Vintage 2010 95/100 92-95 n/a

Château Malartic-Lagravière Vintage 2008 94/100 92 91

Château Olivier Vintage 2010 93/100 90-92 n/a

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2009 93/100 92 n/a

Château Olivier Vintage 2009 91/100 90-92 n/a

Château Malartic-Lagravière Vintage 2010 91/100 95 n/a

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2010 90/100 90-92 n/a

Sauternes A.C.

Château Doisy Védrines Vintage 2010 98/100 91-93 92-95 (BT)

Château Myrat Vintage 2010 94/100 91-93 n/a

Château Rabaud-Promis Vintage 2010 99/100 91-93 n/a

Château d'Yquem Vintage 2010 97/100 96-98 n/a

Château Lamothe-Guignard Vintage 2010 96/100 89-91 n/a

Château Coutet Vintage 2010 94/100 93-95 n/a

Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2007 94/100 91 n/a

Château Filhot Vintage 2009 93/100 n/a 90

Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2010 93/100 92-94 n/a

Château Filhot Vintage 2008 92/100 88-90 n/a

Château Lamothe Despujols Vintage 2008 92/100 89 86-89 (BT)

Château de Malle Vintage 2010 92/100 92-94 n/a

Château Guiraud Vintage 2010 92/100 91-93 n/a

Château Caillou Vintage 2008 90/100 89 n/a

BURGUNDY Chablis A.C.

Roland Lavantureux Vieilles Vignes 2009 87 84 89


Isabelle et Denis Pommier Beauroy 2007 88/100 88 n/a

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Vaillon 2009 90/100 92 n/a

Chablis Grand Cru A.C.

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Vaudésir 2009 89/100 88+ n/a

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Les Clos 2009 95/100 93 n/a

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Valmur 2009 93/100 92 n/a

LOIRE VALLEYQuarts de Chaume A.C.

Domaine des Baumard Vintage 2008 94/100 91-92 n/a

Touraine A.C.

Domaine Baron Sauvignon Blanc 2010 86/100 n/a 85

Sancerre A.C.

Daniel Chotard Vintage 2009 88/100 n/a 90

Domaine Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Les Anges Lots 2009 91/100 89 n/a

RECOMMENDED WINES

Savennières A.C.

Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2007 88/100 91 n/a

Domaine du Closel Les Caillardières 2004 91/100 n/a 90

RHONE VALLEYChâteauneuf-du-Pape A.C.

Château de la Gardine Vintage 2009 92/100 87 n/a

Domaine Bosquet des Papes

Cuvée Tradition 2010 89/100 89 n/a

Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne A.C.

Domaine Alary La Font d'Estévenas 2009 86/100 n/a 91

Domaine de Nalys Eicelènci 2009 91/100 93 n/a

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONSaint-Chinian A.C.

Cave Les Vins de Roquebrun

Les Fiefs d'Aupenac 2010 90/100 n/a 87

PROVENCECôtes de Provence A.C.

Château Léoube Vintage 2010 87/100 n/a 87


RECOMMENDED WINES

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EDITORIAL DIRECTORS: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

EDITOR IN CHIEF: Sylvain Patard

TASTING COMMITTEE: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard,Sylvain Patard - Diego Bonnel, Emmanuel de Lanversin,

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CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE: Mark Andrew, Diego Bonnel,Nicolle Croft, Hubrecht Duijker, Joanne Gibson, Louise Hurren, Jamal Rayyis, Amanda Regan,

Frank Rousseau, Philippe Roux, Delphine Veissière,Emmanuel de Lanversin

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with acapital of 35,500 euros • Head office: 7, Parc desFontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative andEditorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: firstquarter 2012 • Joint consultative committee: 0612 K 90504 •ISSN 2110-6762

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any formis expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articlesare given for information only and have no publicity purpose.

CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

PAGE 37

Château Le Sartre

+33 (0)5 56 64 08 78

[email protected]

www.lesartre.com

PAGE 39

Domaine de Ravanès

+33 (0)4 67 36 00 02

[email protected]

PAGE 40

Domaine Gilles Flacher

+33 (0)4 75 34 09 97

[email protected]

PAGE 65

Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer

+33 (0)3 26 57 51 41

[email protected]

Champagne Pierre Moncuit

+33 (0)3 26 57 52 65

[email protected]

www.pierre-moncuit.fr

Champagne Franck Bonville

+33 (0)3 26 57 52 30

contact@champagne-franck-

bonville.com

www.champagne-franck-bonville.com

Champagne Paul Berthelot

+33 (0)3 26 55 23 83

[email protected]

www.champagne.berthelot-paul.com

Champagne Jacques Chaput

+33 (0)3 25 27 00 14

[email protected]

www.jacques-chaput.com

Union Vinicole des Coteaux de Bethon

+33 (0)3 26 80 48 19

[email protected]

www.champagne-gruetetfils.fr

Champagne Michel Gonet

+33 (0)3 26 57 50 56

[email protected]

www.gonet.fr

PAGE 103

Champagne Drappier

+33 (0)3 25 27 40 15

[email protected]

www.champagne-drappier.com

PAGE 45

Domaine de Longueroche

+33 (0)4 68 41 48 26

[email protected]

www.longueroche.com

PAGE 48

Domaine de l'Olivette

+33 (0)4 94 98 58 85

[email protected]

www.domaine-olivette.com

GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E


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