getting to know Turkey

directly onto the beach, days began with an early-morn-ing swim. Then it was a few strides along the beach tobuy fresh bread, yoghurt and apricots for breakfast.The rest of the day was distinctly lazy and hazy, with

the odd break for kayaking in the bay or walking overthe headland to explore meadows, cliff-top paths andremote coves. It was a rare walk when we didn’t stumbleacross tiny patches of ancient mosaics in the fieldsaround the village.We could have headed for bigger and busier resorts

along the coast. We could have swapped weed-coveredmosaics for more impressive historic sites such asEphesus. Turkey’s popularity has boomed in the lastcouple of years as holidaymakers look for good valueoutside the eurozone.But Gumusluk is proof that Turkey is big enough to

cater for all types of traveller – on and off the beatentrack. The country covers an area three times the size ofthe UK and has more than 2,700 miles of Aegean andMediterranean coastline.Beach resorts are served by the four main gateway

airports at Izmir, Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya.

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getting to know � Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

Hasan was tinkering with the engine of hislittle boat before taking us for a triparound the bay. He assured us that he onlydid this for friends. We didn’t like to tellhim that it seemed everyone was a friendin Gumusluk.

In the space of just a couple of days in this idyllicvillage on the tip of the Bodrum peninsula, the staff ofone of the restaurants had taken us swimming and thelocal baker had shared yoghurt and freshly-pickedalmonds with us. Now the owner of the village antiquesshop was about to take us for a late-afternoon jaunt onhis boat.Turkey is famous for its hospitality. It doesn’t come

any warmer than in Gumusluk, which has largelyavoided the tourism trappings of Bodrum just 40minutes away.

We had intended to spend only a few days in thisvillage, where the road ends – literally. The settlement’sposition on the site of ancient Myndos means that devel-opment is severely restricted. Accommodation is limitedto village houses, a few apartments and a couple ofpensions.Many of the houses and most of Gumusluk’s handful

of shops and restaurants are accessed directly from thebeach, which acts as the village’s main thoroughfare.And with very little passing traffic – save for a fewBodrum visitors to Gumusluk’s renowned fish restau-rants each day – the beach is more country lane thanhigh street.Our “few days” in Gumusluk turned into two weeks.

Apart from a trip to the market in Bodrum, we rarelyventured out of the village – such is its halcyon-like grip.With the garden gate of our stone cottage opening

6 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011

Turkey has soared in popularity as a holiday destination, thanks to its excellent value and therange of resorts it offers all round its coast. Howard Carr gives a guided tour

getting to know � Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

Med to make your mouth water� The stunning beachand lagoon at Oludeniz

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Calis Beach, the nearest stretch of sand to Fethiye.Further west, Patara has the longest beach in Turkey –

14 miles of white sand backed by dunes and mimosabushes. The harbour towns of Kas and Kalkan havegrown into upmarket resorts with swanky boutiquehotels and luxury villas.

antalya areaOodles of winter sun make Antalya Turkey’s only majoryear-round beach holiday destination.The Turkish government has invested heavily in theregion’s tourism infrastructure over the last few years. Afocus on four and five-star hotels is designed to rid the

Gumusluk and Yalikavak are among the quietest placeson the peninsula.

dalaman areaDalaman is the gateway to many of Turkey’s most popu-lar resorts. They include the Brits’ favourite, Marmaris.Bustling, neon-lit and with a busy harbour, this is defi-nitely not a resort for those in search of a quiet holiday.Nearby Icmeler is popular with families because of

its sandy beach and shallow waters. It has a wide rangeof hotels and apartments but has more of a relaxing, laid-back atmosphere than Marmaris.

Small, family-run hotels make up most of theaccommodation in Turunc, reached by a steep,winding road.

The beautiful Datca peninsula remains relativelyundiscovered despite its proximity to Marmaris.Few tourists venture off the main coast road toexplore the pretty countryside and traditional villages.Further south, Oludeniz – near the attractive town of

Fethiye – boasts one of the country’s best beaches

cradled by a stunning lagoon. Most of the area immedi-ately bordering the lagoon is protected, meaning thatmost accommodation is set back from the beach.Because development at Oludeniz is heavily

restricted, nearby Hisaronu has grown into a lively resort.A more relaxed option for families and older couples is

Beautifully restored stone houses, full ofcharacter and history, make a refreshingalternative to modern hotels forholidaymakers who want to immersethemselves in village life.The rural Kaya Valley in the hills above

Fethiye offers lots of options. Strictconservation rules mean there are nolarge hotels. Accommodation is limitedto renovated houses in tiny villages.The biggest nod to tourism is the

deserted village of Kayakoy, whichattracts day-trippers from the coast.The settlement was abandoned afterthe Greco-Turkish war in the 1920s.The valley offers many scenic walks.

Among the most scenic is a hikethrough pine forest to Afkule, anancient monastery carved into a cliffoverlooking the sea.Should the bright lights beckon,

Fethiye is just five miles from the KayaValley and Oludeniz, seven miles.Other areas with a good selection of

village houses for rent include theBodrum and Datca peninsulas.Most houses are well-equipped, with

facilities often including washingmachines, dishwashers and air-conditioning. Maid service is usuallyprovided at least every few days to tidyup and change linen.

Spring 2011 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 11

getting to know � Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

10 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011

getting to know � Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

magical history toursTurkey claims to have more Greek ruins thanGreece and more ancient Roman sites than Italy.There are so many historic attractions thatwherever you choose to stay, you are bound tostumble across mosaics, tombs, statues or the oddamphitheatre or two.But the size of the country means it’s unlikely youwill be able to pack all the main ancient sites intoone holiday. If you’re keen to combine a beach staywith a visit to a particular attraction, choose yourresort carefully to ensure it’s within easy reach.Top sites are:Ephesus: The best-preserved classical city in thewhole of the Mediterranean covers a large area, soditch the flip-flops in favour of comfortable shoes.Troy: Not even Brad Pitt could make the ancient siteof Troy as popular as Ephesus with holidaymakers butthat is largely due to the legendary city’s position onthe northern Aegean coast – a lengthy drive from anyresort south of Izmir.Hierapolis:The ruins of the ancient spa town sitalongside Pamukkale, a spectacular series of whiteterraces that are a popular attraction for day-trippers from Kusadasi, Altinkum and Bodrum. Didyma: One of the ancient world’s most sacredplaces, near Altinkum, was built in the 7th centuryBC and restored by Alexander the Great.Aspendos:Thirty miles east of Antalya, thisimpressive Roman site boasts a beautifully-preserved amphitheatre and aqueduct.Perge: One of Turkey’s best-preservedarchaeological sites, 10 miles from Antalya, this wasa major city of ancient Pamphylia. It was used byAlexander as a base but most ruins date from laterRoman times and include a theatre.

village stays

� Village life in Alacati, near Izmir � Ephesus is the Mediterranean’sbest-preserved classical city

� Didyma, near Altinkum � Perge ruins � Temple of Apollo at Side, near Antalya

� Antalya’s harbour

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