General Fashion Manual

G l F hi M lGeneral Fashion Manual

Prepared by: Ehab Saber Jan.: 2015

2 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

eline

n tim

eashion

Fa


n17th century

hion (1600s)

of fas

ory o Charles II introduced the men's dress code for English

courts men were expected to wear a long coat, awaistcoat, a cravat, a wig and knee breeches ( trousers ).

histo

The


19th centuryn (1800s)

hion

The half coat came into style in the early 19th century,towards the end of the century this morphed into theof

fas

y plooser and more comfortable ( morning coat ) in the late19th century the dinner jacket was invented and started

to be worn to informal events.

ory o

histo

The


Early 20th century(1900s)

it ith h t j k t l h lf t• suit with shorter jacket replaces half coat

• Suitable for everyday or business wear

• Black tie and tuxedo become the choice for formal occasions

• High‐waist, straight‐leg trousers pair with double‐breasted waistcoatswaistcoats

Fashion Icons:•Charlie Chaplin•Al Capone•Rudolph valentine6 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1930s

Suiting trends• Loose –fitting coats come into vogue.

• Trousers tapered at the ankle.

• Double-breasted suits still popular.

• Shoulders squared with padding.

Fashion Icons:•Clark Gable•Clark Gable•Henry Fonda•The duke Windsor7 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1940s

Suiting trends

• With the rationing of fabrics due to the war

• Well prompts fabric rationing

• Suits and jackets cut as straight as possible

• Grey flannel become popular

Fashion Icons:•Frank Sinatra•Humphrey Bogart•Humphrey Bogart•Fred Astaire8 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1950s

Suiting trends

• Pleated-front trousers return

• Leisure wear becomes more popular• Leisure wear becomes more popular

• Suits worn mainly for the office or special rights out

Fashion Icons:*dean martin*Cary grant*Cary grant*James dean


1960s

Suiting trends

• Mood comes into vogue

• Skinny fit suits• Skinny-fit suits

• Ankle –length trousers

• Collarless jackets

Fashion Icons:•The Beatles•The Beatles•Michael Canine•Brian Jones10 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1970sn Suiting trends

hion

• Jackets feature wide lapel

of fas

• colorful trousers

• Single‐button jackets

ory o

histo

Fashion Icons:•David Bowie

k

The

•Mick Jaggier•Burt Reynolds


1980s

Suiting trends

• Power suits come into fashion

• Some favor linen and slouchy fabrics

• Pleated‐front trousers in vogue

Fashion Icons:•Richard careRichard care•Michael Douglas•Don Johnson12 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

1990s

Suiting trends

• Slim‐fit suits return

• Emphasis on minimalistic design

• Skinny trousers with slim tie

Fashion Icons:•Brad Pitt•Brad Pitt•Christian Bale•George Clooney13 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

2000s

Suiting trends

• Luxury fabrics popularized by celebrities

• Emphasis on individuality

• Accessories like pocket squares returnAccessories like pocket squares return

Fashion Icons:•David BeckhamDavid Beckham•Robert Downey•P. Diddy


2010s

Suiting trends• Bespoke, masculine suits in favor

• Similar to tailored styles of 1960s

• Solid and plaids acceptable as long as they are well‐made

• Classic style with modern touches

Fashion Icons:•Jon Hamm•Jon Hamm•Justin Timberlake•Idris Elba15 Prepared by: Ehab Saber


DETAILS OF A SUITA suit is a wardrobe necessity. Even if you do not plan on wearing one every day, you'll need it for job interviews, business meetings, funerals, weddings and other special occasions.

While you have many options to play with, from fabric to stitching to detailing, correct fit is key. To look sharp, the fit must be right.


SUIT & BLAZER FITSIt really is all about the fit. The saying "the suit makes the man" isright: a badly‐fitted suit actually can make you look less dressedup than no suit at all.up than no suit at all.


SLIM FITSLIM FIT

Just like it sounds, Slim fit is fitted closer to

•Slimmer shoulder base

the body, without excess fabric. That doesn't mean it fits like a superhero bodysuit; Slim Fit can be worn by a lot of different body types.

•Slimmer through the body

•Narrower sleeve

•Shortest rise•Shortest rise•Slimmest leg


SMART FIT – MODERN FIT

Smart fit falls between the other two: it's not

SMART FIT MODERN FIT

•Less Wider shoulder basetoo boxy, but it has more room than a Slim Fit. smart Fit is a great choice for guys who want something a little more fashion‐forward than

Less Wider shoulder base

Classic Fit, but are not sure they can pull off Slim Fit.

•Narrower through the body

•Shorter riseShorter rise•narrower leg


REGULAR FIT TRADITIONAL FIT – CLASSIC FIT

l f f bl d

•Wider on the shoulders

Regular fit is comfortable and easy to wear. It's cut generously through the chest and waist, which means less constriction for you, but still maintains a clean body shape

•Looser waistbut still maintains a clean body shape.

•Looser‐fitting pants


FIND YOUR PERFECT FIT

l l l id fireal men real style guide to fit


Sometimes looking sharp is all about wearing clothes properly








The Gentleman's Guide to Wearing A Suit. Detailing the small details you need to get right when wearing a suit!


BUTTONSBUTTONS


SLEEVESSLEEVES

fixedfunctional


TYPE OF LAPELS


VENTSVENTS

2 back opening One back opening


TYPE OF POCKETS FLAP POCKET HACKING POCKETBESOM POCKET FLAP POCKET HACKING POCKETBESOM POCKET

PATCH POCKETBELLOWS POCKET PATCH POCKETBELLOWS POCKETTICKET POCKET


TROUSERS



Regular fit – Traditional fit •Standard lapel

•Wider on the shoulders

Regular fit Traditional fit

•Looser waist

•Longer length jacket•Pleated pant •Longer length jacket

i h l

•Pleated pant

•Straight legs•Looser‐fitting pants


Smart fit – Modern fitSmart fit Modern fit

•Less Wider shoulder base

•Narrower lapel

•Narrower through the body

•slightly longer in the length•Flat front pant

•Shorter rise•narrower leg


Slim fit Slim fit

•Slimmest lapel•Slimmer shoulder base

•Narrower sleeve •Slimmer through the body

•Shorter jacket

•Shortest rise•Slimmest leg



TYPES OF COLLAR


TYPES OF CUFFS


TIESTIES

POCKET SQUARE

BOUTONNIERE

CUFFLINKS



POCKET SQUAREPocket squares are a must for your blazer or jacket ‐ will give your look that edge.

4 reasons to wear a pocket square:

/1829656072317899http://www.pinterest.com/pin/

How to fold a pocket square

SSmlQ87y6F7https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=


BOUTONNIERE• The boutonniere is a type of lapel pin, when you

use a flower on its own without a pin.

• It just goes to show how the addition of somethingj g gso small can totally transform a look or help toemphasize the image you wish .Its effect is to drawattention to a particular part of your outfit.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MytLA0tM8I4

_pfspHs7J2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m


CUFF LINKS Cuff links first appeared in theearly 17th century as anadornment alternative to theribbons and lace previously favoredby the nobility and came intomiddle‐class fashion during theIndustrial Revolution.

They remain a refined furnishingthat adds elegance to any shirt

h h ffwith a French cuff.

Cuff links should match your beltbuckle, wristwatch, collar bar and

h ld l d l k h ldtie holder; colored links shouldcomplement your shirt and tie.


The new move in suits and sport coats is the big, proud pattern, inspired by the natty armor of Italian magnates and British royalty. Here's g y yhow to tell your glen plaid from your gun check and put it all together like a boss


Difference bet. Sport coat & BlazerDIFFERENCE BET. SPORT COAT & BLAZER

There are characteristics and qualities thatare exclusive to each, though it’s becomecommon and acceptable to use the termsinterchangeablyinterchangeably.

Some things to look for in a classic sport coatare weightier fabrics (think tweed, corduroy,wool, cashmere) and flapped pockets.

Blazers tend to be more casual by nature,typically offered in cotton, lightweight woolsand silk.

Blazer pockets don’t necessarily have flapsp y pand tend to skew towards the casual.

However, with the hybrid jackets out theretoday and so many modern design elements,these traditional rules have becomethese traditional rules have becomesomewhat hackneyed. We recommendfocusing less on what you call it and more onhow you wear it.


Plaid blazersYou can be forgiven if you can't tell the names of

diff h k d l id

PLAID BLAZERSdifferent checked plaid

But now, suddenly, that's changing. Yep, fall/Winter

suits and jackets in ultra traditional fabrics have

been resurrected. They're popping up on the

runways and accordingly in stores,

So what's the difference between a jacket you might

see on Prince Charles and one you'll see on the

Milan runway now?

It starts with the fit. no more sacks, but these new

they are cut slimmer and shorter, with higher

armholes, minimal lining, and natural shoulders.

The other key to making these trade jackets fresh is

to style them up aggressively.

Instead of going with a white shirt and a solid tie,

attack a patterned jacket with more patterns. Here,

we'll show you exactly how it's done—and make

sure you never wonder what the hell glen plaid

looks like ever again.51 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

Glen PlaidChecked Plaid


Blanket PlaidHounds tooth


Wi d Windowpane


Horizontal stripes Pi t i Horizontal stripes Pinstripes


Ch lk t iChalk stripes


HerringboneHerringbone



all colors fit into three categories: cool, warm and neutral .while you can select all your colors from the same group, it is often possible to achieve a more powerful effect by introducing a color from one of the other groupseffect by introducing a color from one of the other groups.


Warm colors

Warm colors tend to have an exciting effect, however when these colors are used g ,alone they can over‐ stimulate, generating, emotions of anger and violence when choosing warm tones adding colors from another group will help to balance this.


cool colors

Cool colors tend to have a calming effect on the viewer .used alone how‐ever, these g ,colors can have a cold or impersonal feel, so when choosing cool colors, it may by wise to add a color from another group warmth to your palette


Natural colors

Neutral colors are a great selection to mix with cool or warm palette .they are great for backgrounds in designs and tend down the use of other bold colors. black is added to create a darker shade while white is added to create a lighter " tint "


MIXING COLORS


Pastel colorsPastels or pastel colors are the family of colors which, when described in the color space, have high value and low to intermediate saturation. The name comes from pastels, art media characteristic of this color family The colors of this family arecharacteristic of this color family. The colors of this family are usually described as "soothing“ "soft", "near neutral", "milk", "washed out“.

Lemon, Mauve, Powder Blue, Rose, Peach, Sea foam, Ivory, Lavender, Jade, Mint.


Mauve Blue Rose Simon Yellow Light Green

Ivory Lavender Mint GreenJade Green


Earth tone is a color scheme that draws from a color palette of browns, tans, warm grays, and greens. The colors in an earth tone scheme are muted and flat in an emulation of the natural colors found in dirt, moss, trees and rocks. Many earthemulation of the natural colors found in dirt, moss, trees and rocks. Many earth tones originate from clay earth pigments, such as umber, ochre, and sienna.



Acrylic is a synthetic fiber with soft, wool –like feelA li f b i t d t b i t t t li ht & i kliAcrylic fabric tends to be more resistant to sunlight & wrinklingMany dress contain acrylic fibers.Acrylic is machine washable and retain color very well

A natural fiber obtained from the under‐hair of the camel it is relatively close to cashmereappropriate for coats and jackets very soft hand

Canvas in heavy firm strong fiber often made of cotton68 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

Cashmere wool is a yarn made from fibers obtained from the goatsCashmere wool is a yarn made from fibers obtained from the goatsappropriate for all climates a high moisture content allowsinsulation properties to change with the RH in thaw airhair fiber are collected during spring china mania Pakistan turkeycentral Asia produce pure cashmere

cotton is soft natural vegetable fiber that grow around the seed g gof the cotton plantcotton is a fabric of medium strength and dye as wellcotton absorbs moisturemost fabric made from cotton are machine washablemost fabric made from cotton are machine washable


Denim is a cotton twill textile that mostly used for jeans it can also be combined with LYCRA to add stretchdenim suitable for pants jackets and skirts

Flannel is a warm medium‐weight fabric made from cottonFlannel is a warm medium weight fabric made from cotton

Gabardine is a durable tightly woven twill with diagonal ribs it can be woven in many different fibers alone or blendedcotton rayon and wool are the most common fiber


herringbone is twill weave producing zigzag pattern resemblingherringbone is twill weave producing zigzag pattern resembling the varying diagonals of a fish backbone

Silk is a protein fiber that can be woven into textiles.

Poplin is a tightly woven medium weight fabric made of cotton or p g y gpolyester/cotton blend.It is often given a water-repellant finish. Poplin is commonly used for shirts. Poplin is machine-washable.71 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

Linen is produced using the flax plant.Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily unless blended with manufactured fibersunless blended with manufactured fibers.

Jersey is a slightly elastic machine knit dress fabricJersey knits are usually made of wool or cotton but can also be made from rayon or synthetic fibers.

Rayon is synthetic textile fiber made from generated cellulose that is d i d f t bl tt R h ilk f l l tderived from vegetable matter. Rayon has a silky feel, lustrous appearance, good qualities and dyes as well.




How to dress for an interview?

FORMAL BUSINESS BUSINESS INTERVIEW ATTIRE ATTIRE


How to dress for an interview?

CASUAL BUSINESS BUSINESS INTERVIEW ATTIRE ATTIRE


Dressing FOR THE OCCASION

EVER WONDERED WHAT YOU SHOULD BE WEARING TO EACH OCCASION ?BE WEARING TO EACH OCCASION ?

Here is a guide to the top 4 suits and blazers that will keep you looking fresh , sharp and occasion appropriate.


WHEN TO WEAR ? EVENING WEDDINGSEVENING WEDDINGS

EVENING WEDDINGS RECEPTION

CORPORATE DINNER PARTIES


corporate

WHEN TO WEAR ? WHEN TO WEAR ? WORK FOR A BANK

INTERVIEW WITH CORPORATE AGENCYINTERVIEW WITH CORPORATE AGENCY

CASUAL EVENING WEDDING79 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

WHEN TO WEAR ? WHEN TO WEAR ? INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE AGENCY

DINNER AND EVENTS DRINKS WITH FRIENDSDINNER AND EVENTS DRINKS WITH FRIENDS

DINNER DATE80 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

WHEN TO WEAR ? INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE AGENCY

COUNTRY WORK

MEETING THE PARENTS FOR THE FIRST TIME 81 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

How to dress for your body type??( f )( for men )


For bulky or fat man• V-neck collar and long sleeves t-shirtsand sweaters are perfect for him , thistype of collar will draw the eyedownwarddownward.

•Turtle neck and t-shirts should beshunned away

• For bulky and fat man horizontalstripes are absolute no ,they shouldavoid wearing these patternsavoid wearing these patterns

• They should always opt for jacketswith no vents or single vents , so not

f i j k t d bl ithprefer wearing jackets and blazers withdouble vents

• Pinstripes suits are the best dress-upp pclothing for fat people .


THINGS THAT ARE A MUST HAVE

THE FIT SHOULD BE CLOSE , BUT NEVER

TIPS

TOO TIGHT

CONTRAST SHIRT STRAIGHT LEG JEANSV-NECK T-SHIRT


THINGS TO AVOID


For tall and skinny man• If you have a lean and thin figure , opting forhorizontal and diagonal stripes instead ofvertical stripes ones would make the bestlook horizontal stripes will make yourlook , horizontal stripes will make yourshoulder look broader

• Tall and skinny men should avoid wearingmonochromatic looks , a similar color all overyour lean body will make your look all themore thinner

• Experiment with different shades and colors

• Lighter colors like white , cream , lighth d f bl d l ill kshades of blue , grays and pastel , will makeyour look visually bulky and large

• Patterns such as windowpane and classicPatterns such as windowpane and classicplaid make you look fuller


THINGS THAT ARE A MUST HAVE

TIPSFIND A TAILOR YOU TRUST , HE WILL HELP YOU FIND THE RIGHT FIT


THINGS TO AVOID


For short man•DO stick with vertical patterns.

h ll h h ’ h h k h k•DO go with small patterns. Whether it’s gingham, stripes, checks, or whatever, makesure it’s small.

• DO wear clothes that fit close to the body. (Think slim, not skinny.)

•Should make use accessories such as a tie or a hat and watch , Accessories confinethe attention of people on the face there by making them overlook the height

•DON’T wear broad, horizontal patterns.

•DON’T wear shoes with thick soles to look taller. NEVER buy “risers” (shoes that arecreated for the very purpose of adding inches) .

•for short man people square toed shoes are the perfect choice

•DON’T buy baggy clothes. They won’t make you look bigger. In fact, they make youlook smaller and younger.

•DON’T wear double‐breasted jackets Stick with single‐breasted one or two button•DON T wear double‐breasted jackets. Stick with single‐breasted, one or two buttonjackets.

•DON’T shy away from tailoring. Basic alterations can go a long way.

•Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes your legs look shorter. • Don’t wear fatties and wide lapels; keep it slim.


WHAT TO DOAND

WHAT NOT TO DO WHAT NOT TO DO


Shirts & tiesMatching solid colors is easy , but combining patterns is the way to go if you want to add some character to your outfit . There is no right or wrong , just stay away from looking like an optical illusion by following these basic rules

FRIST RULE OF THUMBStart with your shirt : establish the primary color of your shirt and then choose a tie with a similar color anywhere in its pattern.


SECOND RULE OF THUMB

Your collar and tie should be in proportion with each other.Also remember to pair large patterns with smaller ones, you want yourpatterns to visually complement each other.


THE “SOMETIMES, ALWAYS, NEVER “3-BUTTON RULE

SINGLE BREASTED SINGLE BUTTON SUITVery easy to remember:When standing you must button the only buttonh i i bWhen sitting you must unbutton

SINGLE BREASTED TWO BUTTON SUITThe top button must be fastened when standingAnd the second button should never be fastenedJacket must be unbuttoned when seated

SINGLE BREASTED THREE BUTTON SUIT

There are two options :When standing fasten top tow buttons and leave theWhen standing fasten top tow buttons and leave the third unfastened or fasten only the middle button


D & d ’Do & don’t •WEAR DEODORANT, BRUSH YOUR TEETH, TRIM AND POLISH NAILS ,

YBRUSH YOUR HAIR

•WEAR APPROPRIATE JEWELRY

W•WEAR NATURAL LOOKING MAKEUP

•DON’T WEAR OVERPOWERING COLOGNE OR DON T WEAR OVERPOWERING COLOGNE OR PERFUME

•DON’T TRY OUT ELABORATE HAIR STYLE

•DON’T WEAR TRENDY CLOTHING, KEEP IT CLASSIC


Basic wardrobe for men


The fabulous four If you are in the process of building your classic wardrobe, you don’t need ten suits to start with; you only need the timeless four.These are the Fabulous Four:

1. The Standard Blue:Great for business, lunches, summer dinners, or casual parties. Can be worn with black or brown shoes, even white if you’re daring. Reflects well by a pool. Standard blue means navy, with no room for paler shades.

2. The Classic Gray: f h d k d h d l k d d lAppropriate for everything and even makes a red‐head look dandy. Grays also are

the best with patterns, especially anything in the chevron family. Start with plain, move to window‐pane. Even such, the gray is never controversial. It’s the Switzerland of suits.

3. The Basic Black: Our favorite and the perennial classic, it’s a fit at the Oscars or your sister’s wedding, the perfect compliment to a good white shirt, beloved by gangsters, designers, and p p g y g g gundertakers (those jobs with the highest doses of fashion‐conscious aptitudes; respectively, aggression, vanity, and wisdom). If you only own one suit, this is it. You can even be buried in it.

4. Any of the above, with pinstripes.96 Prepared by: Ehab Saber

How many jackets do I need??We think there are three essential jackets every men should own:

1 ‐ A navy blazer:ynavy is a classic choice – timeless‐ confidence, it can be worn

casually with chino and oxford shirt or dressed up with a more formal pant, shirt and tie.

2 – A tweed blazer is a fall essential that works well with jeans

As the weather gets cooler, it can also be worn in place of a winter overcoat when layered with a cashmere or wool sweater of turtleneck.

3 – A linen sport coat, which instantly dresses up everything from a mercerized cotton polo to tailored shirt.


Basic casual wardrobeWHITE SHIRT DENIM V-NECK TEES DENIM SHORTS BASIC CARDIGAN

BASIC BAG

STRUCTURED BLAZERTRENCH COAT DENIM JACKETS CHINO PLAID SHIRT










How to roll sleeves ???


The turn up vs. the roll

Roll Turn upRoll Turn up

THE RULE:•THE RULE:•If the fabric is formal ( wool suit pant) say turn up.

•If the fabric is casual ( chinos – jeans ) say roll and enjoy the cool look.


Turn‐up on pants of just about any fabric is preferred.

When you're dealing with heavier corduroys and tweeds, the turn‐up give the pants some weight, so they fall better.

Go for a turn‐up, make it at least an inch and aquarter deep.

As for the break, keep it classic, where the front of your pants hits the top bit of your shoes and the back of them touches the tops of

your heels.

That always works—but if you know what you're doing, then you can play around a bit and

show a little ankle.

Bring a pair of shoes to the tailor's to get the length just right

Always follow that old rule 'Measure twice, cut once.’ It's easy to go a little shorter, but it's impossible to go a little longer."


TURN UP

TURNED UP BEST FOR RTALL MEN , UN TURNED

UP FOR SHORT


Matching your shoes with your suit


Skinny tie – slim tie


Knit tiesTweed, with check, spotted pocket square and knitted tie...somehow it works , , p p q


What is the right Tie Bar Length?


How to knot your tie???


6 ways to wear a scarf

1 2The SophisticateThe City Slicker 1 2116 Prepared by: Ehab Saber


3 4The ConnoisseurThe Ivy Leaguer 3 4117 Prepared by: Ehab Saber


5 6TheWeekenderThe Jet Setter 5 6The WeekenderThe Jet Setter


Blazer, sports coat, suit difference, p ,

•Solid•Solid•No Patten•Metal buttons

•Has pattern•Has color•Different weights

•Has matching pants


the gentleman's guide to shoes


D bl b t d it•Double‐breasted suits•Grey flannel•Colorful trousers•Skinny‐fity•wide lapel•Single‐button jackets•Power suits•fixed buttons•fixed buttons•Functional buttons•Primary •Secondary

•Turtleneck•Banker shirt•Fasten

•tertiary •Corporate•Confine•Deep v‐neck

•Contrast shirt•Vogue•Chucks converse

Deep v neck•Vertical stripes•alterations•Roll• turn up•Metal buttons


General Fashion Manual

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