Gel Nail Application - cehoursnow.files.wordpress.com … · 1. Perform effective pre-nail service analysis to promote client safety. 2. Recall techniques and procedures for ultraviolet

Gel Nail Application

Course Outline:

1. Pre-Nail Service Analysis

a. Your Professional Responsibility

b. Contra-Indications

2. Ultraviolet Gel Enhancements

a. Ultraviolet Gel Enhancement Properties

b. Urethane Acrylate and Urethane Methacrylate

c. Categories of Ultraviolet Gels

3. UV Gel Procedures

a. Pre-Service

b. UV Gel Application

c. UV Gel Application Post-Service

4. Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

a. Monomer and Polymer Application Categories

b. Monomer and Polymer Powders

c. Modern Day Monomer Liquids and Polymer Powders

5. Gel Application Composition and Reactions (Actions and Processes)

6. Preparation for Acrylic Nail Application

a. Preparation Guidelines

b. Manicure Procedure

7. Applying Tips with Acrylic

a. Nail Tip Application

b. Application Procedure

8. Nail-Tip Post Service

9. Tip Removal Procedure

10. Nail Terminology

Course Objectives:

Upon the completion of this course the licensed professional will be able to:

1. Perform effective pre-nail service analysis to promote client safety.

2. Recall techniques and procedures for ultraviolet gel nail enhancement application.

3. Comprehend the properties of ultraviolet gel enhancements.

4. Define the various categories of ultraviolet gel enhancement procedures.

5. Recite effective UV gel application techniques.

6. Create a method of post-service gel application routines to ensure client satisfaction.

7. Understand the components of monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements.

8. Develop knowledge of the composition and reactions of gel application.

9. Apply a series of guidelines when preparing clients for the manicure, and tip removal

procedures.

10. Review a list of nail terms associated with natural and artificial nail procedures.

Gel Nail Application

Pre-Nail Service Analysis The client’s general health and the condition of their hands and feet should be examined carefully

before beginning a manicure/pedicure treatment. There are many conditions that can affect the nail and

some of them indicate the presence of more serious underlying health problems. In these cases, some

manicure and pedicure treatments may be conducted but the client should be advised to see their

doctor. Where contagious diseases or evidence of infection (redness, pus, tenderness and swelling) are

present, treatments should not be conducted. (These conditions are identified as contra-indications,

which requires your client to seek an appropriate professional)

As a nail technician it’s important to be able to identify basic nail disorders and diseases and decide

whether the requested treatment can be safely performed. If you are unable to perform a treatment

you need to tactfully explain the situation to the client.

Your Professional Responsibility Ask your trainer or supervisor to help you locate appropriate references to identify the definitions of the

following skin and nail diseases and disorders. Find out whether the disease or disorder is contra

indicated for manicure/pedicure services. In some cases manicure and pedicure services can be safely

conducted if modifications and precautions are taken.

Contra-Indications General Contra-indications to manicures and pedicures include:

• some skin diseases and disorders in the hands and feet

• some fingernail and toenail diseases and disorders

• bruising or swelling of the wrist, ankle, finger or toe joints

• cuts and abrasions on hands and feet

• recent fractures, sprains or surgery on hands and feet

• areas exhibiting loss of tactile sensation

• high blood pressure

• diabetes

Ultraviolet Gel Nail Enhancement Application

What makes the Ultraviolet Gel Nail Enhancement application process different from other types of nail

enhancements?

After the nail plate is properly prepared, each layer of product applied to the natural nail, nail tip or

form requires exposure to UV light to cure or harden. The UV light required for curing comes from a

special lamp designed to emit the proper type of UV light.

Ultraviolet Gel Enhancement Properties Most ultraviolet gel enhancements are made from acrylates; however, new ultraviolet gel nail

enhancement technologies have been developed recently that use methacrylates. Similar to wraps and

methacrylate nail enhancements, ultraviolet gel nail enhancements can also contain monomers, but

they rely mostly on a related form called an oligomer.

Oligo means few. An oligomer is a short chain of monomers that is not long enough to be considered a

polymer. Nail enhancement monomers are liquids, while polymers are solids. Oligomers are in between.

Oligomers are often thick, gel-like and sticky.

Traditionally, ultraviolet gel nail enhancements rely on a special type of acrylate called a urethane

acrylate, while the newer ultraviolet gel nail enhancement systems may use urethane methacrylates by

themselves or in combination with urethane acrylates.

Urethane Acrylate and Urethane Methacrylate Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate are the main ingredients used to create ultraviolet gel nail

enhancements. The term ‘urethane’ refers to the type of starting material that is used to create the

most common ultraviolet gel nail enhancement resins. The chemical family of urethanes is known for

high abrasion resistance and durability.

Ultraviolet gel nail enhancement resins react when exposed to the UV light that is recommended for the

gel. This resin is a chemical called photo initiator which causes the polymerization reaction to begin. The

key thing to remember here is the combination of the resin, photoinitiator and the proper curing lamp.

Ultraviolet gel nail enhancement systems employ a single component resin that is cured to a solid

material when exposed to a UV light source. Ultraviolet gel nail enhancements typically do not use a

powder that is incorporated into the gel resin. There are a few gels on the market that do incorporate a

powder that is sprinkled into the gel. But this course will refer to gels as being the more common single

component type.

There are many types of ultraviolet gel nail enhancements. Some nail technicians favor an ultraviolet gel

nail enhancement that is thick and will not level by itself. Other nail technicians like to use those that

self-level quickly. It is up to you to find the ultraviolet gel nail enhancement that you prefer to use in

your services and to learn how to use it.

Categories of Ultraviolet Gel Enhancements The different ultraviolet gel nail enhancements can be categorized by the following:

• Thin Viscosity Gels

• Medium Viscosity Gels

• Thick Viscosity Gels

• Building Gels

• Sculpting Gels

Remember that viscosity is the degree of density, thickness, stickiness and adhesiveness of a substance.

Manufacturers have their market names for the ultraviolet gel nail enhancements that they make, but

most fall under these general categories:

1. A clear resin used for the one-color method, for clients who wish to wear coloured polish or

ultraviolet gel nail enhancement polish over the enhancement.

2. Pink resin or white-pigmented resin used for the two-color method for clients who want the

French or American manicure finish without using any nail polish. There are many processes for

performing a two-color method over tips or natural nails. The process varies from one

ultraviolet gel nail enhancement manufacturer to another.

UV GEL PROCEDURES

PRE-SERVICE Complete the manicure pre service sanitation and

disinfection.

Prepare workstation. Set up standard manicuring

table. Add the additional supplies needed to perform

the services.

Greet client with a smile. Ask client to wash hands

with liquid soap and rinse with warm running water

and dry thoroughly. Technician washes and dries

hands also.

If a first appointment, prepare client consultation

form. Mark date of the service. Record any skin or nail

disorders, allergies, and determine if it is safe and

appropriate to perform service. Note if client is a nail

biter or does heavy work as a daily routine. Record

any specific information about service to be

performed (e.g., UV gel overlay without polish, if

polish is preferred; client’s color preference).

If a return visit, perform client consultation, using

consultation form to record responses and

observations. Check for nail disorders and decide if

it is safe and appropriate to perform a service. If the

client cannot receive a service, explain reasons and

refer to a doctor, if appropriate.

UV GEL APPLICATION

STEP 1.

Clean nails and remove existing polish. Begin

with client’s left hand little finger and work

toward the thumb. Repeat on the right hand.

Ask client to place nails into a finger bowl

with liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean

nails over the finger bowl. Thoroughly rinse

with clean water to remove soap residues

which can cause lifting.

STEP 2.

Push back eponychium and carefully remove

cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cotton-

tipped wooden or metal pusher to gently

push back eponychium. Apply cuticle remover

to nail plate. Use as directed by the

manufacturer and carefully remove cuticle

tissue from the nail plate.

STEP 3.

Remove oily shine from natural nail surface.

Lightly buff nail plate with medium/fine (240-

grit) abrasive to remove the natural oils.

STEP 4.

Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator

to nails with cotton-tipped wooden pusher,

cotton pad with plastic backing, brush, or

spray.

STEP 5.

Apply nail tips if desired. If client requires nail

tips, apply according to the procedure.

Shorten and shape tip prior to application of

the UV gel. During the procedure the UV gel

overlaps the tip’s edge to prevent lifting.

During the filing process, the seal can be

broken, allowing the UV gel to peel or lift. Be

careful not to break this seal. Be sure to

follow the instructions recommended by the

manufacturer of the system you are using.

STEP 6.

Natural nail preparation. Follow

manufacturer’s instructions for natural nail

preparation. Properly prepare the nail plate.

Using the applicator brush, insert brush into

nail primer. Wipe off excess from brush and

using a slightly damp brush, ensure nail plate

is completely covered. Avoid using too much

product to prevent running onto the skin,

which can increase the risk of developing skin

irritation or sensitivity.

STEP 7.

Apply UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Firmly brush

UV gel onto entire nail surface including free

edge. Keep UV gel from touching eponychium

or sidewalls. Leave a tiny free margin

between the UV gel product and the skin to

reduce the risk of client developing skin

irritation or sensitivity. Apply to client’s left

hand from little finger to index finger. If

performing a one-color method (i.e., nail

polish will be worn) a clear, pink, or natural

color UV gel may be used. If performing a

two-color method, a pink or natural color UV

gel should be used.

STEP 8.

Cure UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Properly

position hand in the UV lamp for the

manufacturer’s required cure time. Cure each

layer of the UV gel product for the time

required by the manufacturer’s instructions.

Curing for too little time can result in

improper cure and may lead to service

breakdown, skin irritation, and/or sensitivity.

Improper positioning of the hands inside the

lamp can also cause improper cure.

STEP 9.

Repeat Steps 7 and 8 on the right hand.

Repeat same steps for both thumbs.

STEP 10.

Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Apply a

small amount of UV gel over properly cured,

first layer. Carefully pull the UV gel across the

first layer, and smooth into place. Avoid

patting the brush or pressing too hard. Brush

the UV gel over and around the free edge to

create a seal. Avoid touching the skin under

the free edge to prevent skin irritation and

sensitivity. Repeat this application process for

the other four nails on the client’s left hand. If

performing a one-color method, use the same

colored UV gel as before. If performing a two-

color method, use the white gels to create a

smile line at the free edge. Apply pink UV gel

over remainder of the nail plate, leaving a tiny

free margin between the UV gel and skin.

STEP 11.

Cure UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Properly

position hand in the UV lamp for the

manufacturer’s required cure time.

STEP 12.

Repeat Steps 10 and 11 on the right hand.

STEP 13.

Repeat Steps 10 and 11 for both thumbs.

STEP 14.

If required, a second layer of UV gel #2

(building UV gel), may be applied. Repeat

Steps 11 and 12 for both hands.

STEP 15.

Remove inhibition layer. UV gels cure with a

tacky surface called an inhibition layer. This

layer can be removed by filing with a medium

abrasive (180-240 grit) or with alcohol,

acetone, or other suitable remover on a

cotton pad with plastic backing to avoid skin

contact. Prolonged or repeated skin contact

with the inhibition layer may cause skin

irritation or sensitivities. Practitioner should

avoid laying his/her arm in fresh filings from

UV gel enhancements.

STEP 16.

Check nail contours. Using a medium

abrasive (180-240 grit), refine the surface

contour. File carefully near sidewalls and

eponychium to avoid injuring client’s skin.

Bevel down, stroking file at a 45-degree angle

from top center dome to free edge. Check

free-edge thickness and even out

imperfections with gentle strokes. During the

procedure keep brush and UV gel away from

sunlight, UV gel lamps, and full-spectrum

table lamps to prevent gel nails from

hardening.

STEP 17.

Remove dust. Remove dust and filings with a

nylon brush that can be disinfected. Be sure

to properly clean and disinfect brushes

between clients.

STEP 18.

Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel).

Apply a small amount of UV gel #3 (sealer or

finisher UV gel). Starting from base of nail

plate, stroke toward free edge, using polish-

style strokes, to cover entire nail surface.

Wrap final layer under the natural nail’s free

edge to seal the coating and provide

additional protection. Avoid touching the

client’s skin.

STEP 19.

Repeat Steps 11 and 15.

STEP 20.

Remove inhibition layer. If required. Avoid

skin contact.

STEP 21.

Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into surrounding

skin and nail surface.

STEP 22.

Apply lotion and massage hand and arm.

STEP 23.

Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip

nail enhancements into a finger bowl filled

with liquid soap. Use nail brush to clean

enhancements over finger bowl. Thoroughly

rinse with water to remove soap residues

which can cause polish to lift. Dry thoroughly

with a clean, disposable towel.

STEP 24.

Apply nail polish.

UV GEL APPLICATION POST-SERVICE

1. Make another appointment. Schedule another appointment for maintaining nail

enhancements. A re-balance will be necessary in 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how quickly the

nails grow. Encourage client to return for a basic manicure between re-balance appointments if

UV gel enhancements are polished.

2. Take-home product recommendations. Suggest professional products that would benefit client

(i.e. polish, nail oil, topcoat, hand lotions, etc.).

3. Clean up around your table. Take the time to restore the basic setup of table, restock supplies,

and tighten all caps.

4. Clean brush. Clean brush according to manufacturer’s instructions. Keeping it away from UV

light sources will make cleaning much easier and will prevent ruining the brush.

5. Discard used materials. Dispose of waste materials. Collect materials, seal them in a plastic bag

and discard in a metal, self-closing waste receptacle. Remove items soiled with enhancement

product from your manicuring station after each client and dispose of properly.

6. Clean table, clean and disinfect implements and multi-use tools. Perform complete pre-service

sanitation and disinfection procedures.

We’ve just learned another popular procedure for applying beautiful and durable nail enhancements. As

a professional in the cosmetology field, it’s important to have a thorough understanding of and

competent skill level in every nail enhancement procedure in order to properly consult with clients to

choose the enhancement procedure that best suits their needs.

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements are created by combining monomer liquid and

polymer powder; thus the name liquid and powder. ‘Mono’ means ‘one’ and ‘mer’ stands for ‘units’, so

a monomer in one unit called a ‘molecule’. ‘Poly’ means ‘many’, so polymer means ‘many units’ or many

molecules linked together in a chain. This is important to remember, since you will hear these terms

many times throughout your career.

Monomer and Polymer Application Categories Monomer and polymer products can be applied in three basic ways:

1. On the natural nail as a protective overlay

2. Over a nail tip

3. On a form to create a nail extension

A natural hair pointed, round or oval application brush is the best brush to use for applying these

products. The brush is immersed in the monomer liquid. The natural hairs of the brush absorb and hold

the monomer like a reservoir. The tip of the brush is then touched to the

surface of the dry polymer powder, and as the monomer liquid absorbs

the polymer powder, a small bead of product forms. The small bead is

then carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with the

brush.

Monomer and Polymer Powders The monomer liquid portion is usually one of three versions used in the

nail industry: ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate or odorless

monomer. All three often contain other monomers that are used as

customizing additives. The industry standard is the ethyl methacrylate

liquid monomer (MA) and odorless liquid monomer. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is not recommended

for use on nails and is prohibited for use in cosmetic products listed with the 'VGA in Australia and is also

banned for use in New Zealand, and in the US.

It may seem strange that polymer

powder is also made mostly from

ethyl methacrylate monomer. The

polymer powder is made using a

special chemical reaction called

polymerization. In this process,

trillions of monomers are linked

together to create long chains.

These long chains create the tiny

round beads of polymer powder

used to create certain types of nail

enhancements.

During the manufacturing/production of the polymer, the powder forms into tiny round beads of slightly

varying sizes. These are poured through a series of special screens that sort the beads by size. The ones

that are the right size are separated and then mixed with other special additives and colorants. The final

mixture is packaged and sold as polymer powder. It is a surprisingly high-tech process that requires very

specific manufacturing equipment, lots of quality control and scientific intelligence to produce a high

quality polymer. This is the same with monomer production.

Special additives are blended into both the liquid and powder. These additives ensure complete set or

cure, maximum durability, color stability and shelf life, among other attributes. It is these 'custom'

additives that make products work and behave differently. The polymer powders are usually blended

with pigments and colorants to create a wide range of shades, including pinks, whites and milky

translucent, as well as many other colours such as neon, pastel shades and brights in reds, blues, greens,

purples, yellows, oranges, browns and even jet black.

When liquid is picked up by a brush and mixed with the powder, the bead that forms on the end of the

brush quickly begins to harden or set (referred to as 'set time). It is then put into place with other beads

and shaped into place as they further harden or cure (referred to as 'cure time). In order for this process

to begin, the monomers and polymers require special additives called catalysts and initiators. A catalyst

is an additive designed to speed up chemical reactions.

Catalysts are added to the monomer liquid and used to control the set or curing time. In other words,

when the monomer liquid and polymer powder are combined, the catalyst (in the liquid) helps control

the set-up or hardening time. How? The catalyst energizes and activates the initiators.

The initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of very long polymer chains. It is actually

the initiators found in the powder that , when activated, will spring into action and start causing

monomer molecules to permanently link together into these long polymer chains. This is another

example of the polymerization process discussed above, except this time it is actually occurring on the

fingernail.

Modern Day Monomer Liquids and Polymer Powders Today's monomer liquids and polymer powders come in many colors, including variations of basic pink,

white, clear, and natural. These colors can be used alone or blended to create everything from

customized shades of pink to match or enhance the color of your client's nail beds, using opaque colors

or blends to cover any irregularities in the nail bed, to bold primaries or pastels that can be used to

create a wide range of designs and patterns. With these powders you can create unique colours or

designs that can be locked permanently in the nail enhancement.

They offer a wonderful way to customize your set vices or to

express your artistry and creativity. Monomer and polymer

overlays and nail enhancements can be created with a single color

powder, if the client wears nail polish all the time.

Gel Application Composition and Reactions

Thickness of the gel coating has a great effect on the degree of cure. It is better to use three or four

coats rather than one or two thicker coats. Thinner coats allow more light to penetrate the layer,

thereby reducing shrinkage. Shrinking is normal, but above 12% causes many problems, such as lifting,

cracking and other types of service breakdown. Gel enhancement products shrink up to 20%. Clients can

sometimes feel the effects of excessive shrinking, commenting that the enhancement may feel 'tight' or

complain of throbbing and/or a heat sensation on the nail bed. These symptoms can occur immediately

or up to 24 hours after application, and depends entirely on how much the gel shrinks. Excessive

shrinkage is not only discomforting, it can cause damage or trauma to the nail bed. Excessive shrinkage

can squeeze the nail plate, causing it to 'pop' free of the track that holds it to the nail bed. Once the

separation has occurred, it easily travels farther up the nail plate and infection can occur in the space

between the nail plate and the nail bed. Other causes of trauma are over-filing, heavy abrasives and

high-speed drills, over-priming or wearing nails that are too long for the clients lifestyle, activity level

and nail plate shape.

Shrinkage can be minimized by applying multiple, thinner coatings of gel. Clients with thin, damaged nail

plates are easily injured by excessive shrinkage and other trauma. Remember, clients pay you to care for

their fingernails first, then to give them beautiful enhancements. Keep the natural nail plate and

surrounding skin healthy, and they are less likely to have problems. Always read, understand and follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for proper preparation, application, curing and finishing of your gel

product.

Gel Application Actions and Processes Below are examples of what goes on behind the scenes at various stages of the gel application

process.

ACTION: Apply bonder gel to the nail.

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

Functioning like an acrylic primer,

bonder gel has the ability to bond both

to the nail and to other gels, making the

nail plate more compatible with the

enhancement product.

ACTION: Cure nail in the nail light.

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: When

the photoinitiator is exposed to the

proper UV light wavelength and

intensity, it gives off a fragment of a

molecule called a free radical. This free

radical makes the gel unstable as it

reacts with the double-bonds of the

resin. As the double-bonds break, they

combine with each other to create the

polymer that we know as the gel nail

enhancement (which is now back to a

stable state).

ACTION: (Sometimes) The client

comments that her fingers feel warm or

even pulls her hand out of the light due

to a heat spike she feels in her fingers.

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

The polymerization reaction gives off

heat, known in scientific terms as an

exothermic reaction (“exo” means to

give off, and “thermic” means heat).

(The warm sensation is NOT caused by

“friction between the molecules,” as

some say.) If the heat is so intense that

it causes the client pain, then the

chemical reaction has occurred too

quickly. Incompatibility between the gel

and the gel light can cause this problem.

ACTION: Thinly apply builder gel. (Then

repeat the curing process.)

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

UV light can’t penetrate deeply into

most substances, including UV gels. UV

light is typically absorbed by the upper

layers of gel or may even be reflected

away. When thick layers of gel are

applied to the nail, light is prevented

from getting to the lower surface —

which means the gel will not cure

properly. This is why you need to apply

in thin layers, curing after each.

ACTION: Apply sealer gel. (Then repeat

the curing process.)

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

This is thin viscosity clear or colored gel

that protects the enhancement from

chipping or yellowing. It gives the

builder gel, an inherently weaker gel,

scratch- and moisture-resistance.

ACTION: Notice a tacky layer on the nail.

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

This is uncured gel. Oxygen inhibited the

top layer from curing. (If we were on a

planet that was nitrogen only, we

wouldn’t have this problem and the gel

would fully cure.) The bottom layers of

gel aren’t exposed to the oxygen at the

surface, which is why that’s not a

problem there. (If this layer seems

thicker than usual, then you are having a

problem with curing at the lower levels,

which likely means your light needs new

bulbs.)

ACTION: Wipe the tacky layer with the

manufacturer’s designated product.

PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES:

It would be possible to use other

cleaning materials, but the most

effective are isopropanol, methyl ethyl

ketone, acetone, ethyl acetate, n-propyl

acetate or a blend of these solvents.

Water is not recommended because it

won’t remove the uncured gel. Be

careful not to touch this uncured gel

(i.e., don’t file it off, then rest your arm

in the filings). A plastic-backed pad is

ideal, as the uncured gel can potentially

soak through plain cotton.

Preparation for Acrylic Nail Application

The term 'artificial nail enhancement' incorporates any procedure that lengthens, thickens or otherwise

alters the appearance of the natural nail by artificial means. These procedures include the application of

tips, acrylic liquid and powder systems, gel systems, sculpting on a form, any type of fabric wrap or the

application of a full pre-formed artificial nail.

Acrylic (methacrylate) nails make nail enhancements one of the fastest-growing and lucrative services in

our industry. A cosmetology professional who would like to offer these services must master the

techniques, minimize delivery time, and stay abreast of all the latest products. It is a great opportunity

to put your creative juices to work and design customized products and services for your individual

clients.

We will cover the procedures for the various types of products, beginning with the most common type:

Liquid and Powder Acrylic. Please keep in mind that these procedures are non-product specific and are

only meant as a generic guideline -- always read, understand and follow the preparation, application and

finishing instructions included with your product purchase. For more detailed hands-on instruction,

contact your professional distributor for a listing of continuing education workshops in your area.

Preparation Guidelines First and foremost, ask the client to wash her hands with a mild soap and warm water prior to seating

herself at your table.

You will need to assess the nail plate shape and length to prescribe the most flattering, long-lasting and

complimentary service. The ideal free edge design will be a mirror image of the natural cuticle shape;

i.e., an oval cuticle line = an oval free edge.

Manicure Procedure

File the free edge of the nail to a

uniform length and shape

according to your choice of

application: Tip with overlay or

sculpt on a form. Tips are

designed to be slightly thicker at

the stop point for added

strength. If you are applying a

tip, it is always recommended to

begin with a very short free

edge line.

Using a 240-grit soft file, gently

remove the natural nail shine in

the direction of the nail growth.

Filing from side-to-side may

disrupt the nail plate layers

which can result in air or

contaminates being trapped in

the layers and then sealed with

acrylic

Soak the nails in warm water

and a mild detergent or an anti-

bacterial, anti-microbial scrub

for no more than 3 minutes to

soften the cuticle. You may wish

to perform a 'dry' manicure

using a cuticle remover cream,

and that is fine as well. Scrub

the nail surface and underneath

the nail plate with a soft nail

brush or toothbrush to remove

all traces of dust, then rinse the

nails with a gentle spray of

water. If you prefer, the client

may go to a basin to rinse the

scrub from her hands and nails.

Gently towel-dry.

Gently push back the cuticle and

remove all translucent skin

from the nail plate surface. Skin

contains oils and moisture

which prevent proper adhesion.

Nail Plate Prep

Apply nail prep to the natural

nail surface in a 'scrubbing'

motion. Prep will temporarily

remove moisture and some of

the oils from the nail plate

layers. Temporary dehydration

of the nail plate layers will last

for up to 30 minutes.

Tip Application

Choose a tip with the best fit to

the natural nail shape, making

note that the 'C' curve of the tip

is a perfect fit to the 'C' curve of

the natural nail. The stop point

of the tip should fit snugly

against the free edge with the

sides perfectly parallel. If the

tip is slightly too small use the

next largest size -- if it is slightly

too big or overhangs the

sidewall, refine the sidelines

with a file for a customized fit.

Apply a line of adhesive across

the free edge of the natural nail.

If using a thin adhesive, apply a

drop into the well of the tip and

spread evenly with the

applicator nozzle. If you prefer

a gel-type adhesive, draw a line

across the center of the well

from side to side. You do not

need to 'spread' the gel

adhesive.

Hold the tip at a 45° angle to the

nail plate, and then slide the tip

forward until the natural free

edge butts snugly against the

stop point of the tip.

Apply nail adhesive to the well

of the nail tip, then slide it onto

the free edge of natural nail so it

fits snugly. Make sure the nail

tip fits the curve of natural nail.

Press down for five seconds.

Repeat these steps for the

opposite hand.

Cut nail tips down to a realistic

length with tip clipper. Nails

that are too long break and lift

easily.

Scoop a small amount of gel

onto application brush and wipe

one side of brush clean on the

side of jar. Apply a thin layer of

gel to your nails as you would

nail polish. Do not allow the

brush to fan out because it will

cause uneven distribution.

Avoid the cuticle and skin.

Applying Tips with Acrylic

Nail Tip Application PRE-SERVICE

1. Pre-service sanitation.

2. Standard table setup. Add abrasives, buffer blocks, nail adhesive, nail tips.

3. Greet client. Have client wash hands with soap and warm water. Thoroughly dry the hands with

a fresh towel.

4. Client consultation. Complete card by recording responses and observations. Check for nail

disorders, etc.

APPLICATION PROCEDURE 1. Remove polish. Begin with client’s left hand, little finger. Repeat on right hand.

2. Push back eponychium. Use cotton-tipped orangewood stick to gently push back cuticle. Use

light touch because cuticle is Dry—no solvent.

3. Remove cuticle tissue. Use cuticle remover and a wooden or metal pusher/curette. Carefully

remove cuticle tissue from nail plate.

4. Buff nail/remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/fine (180-grit or higher)

abrasive to remove natural oil. Remove the dust with nail brush.

5. Size tips. Must completely cover nail plate from sidewall to sidewall and never more that one-

third of the length of the nail plate. Tips should be pre-beveled along the cuticle edge. This

reduces potential damage to natural nail. Place tips on towel in order of application.

6. Apply dehydrator. Use cotton-tipped wooden pusher or spray to apply dehydrator/cleanser to

nails. It will remove more of the natural oil and dehydrate nail for better adhesion.

7. Apply adhesive. Place on nail plate to cover area where tip will be placed. Don’t let it run on the

skin; apply it from the middle of the nail to the free edge.

8. Slide on tips. Stop, Rock, and Hold. Stop—find stop against free edge at 45-degree angle. Rock—

rock tip on slowly. Hold—hold in place firmly for 5 to 10 seconds. If white spots or air bubbles,

tip must be reapplied. (Also used for well-less tips.)

9. Trim nail tip. To desired length with tip cutter or large nail clippers. Cut from one side, then the

other. Cutting straight across weakens the plastic.

10. Finish blending. Sand the shine off tip with medium- to fine-grit buff-block file. Hold file flat.

Holding at an angle can make a groove in nail plate.

11. Shape nail. Use abrasive to shape new, longer nail.

NAIL TIP POST-SERVICE

1. Schedule appointment. Follow-up or maintenance needed.

2. Sell retail products for home maintenance.

3. Clean up area. Cap glue and clean applicator tips in acetone.

4. Discard used materials. Put in plastic bag and discard in a closed pail.

5. Sanitation. Clean and disinfect table, implements, and multi-use tools.

TIP REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Soak tips and nails. Place remover in a small glass bowl; soak a few minutes.

2. Slide off tip. Use wooden pusher to slide off the softened nail tip. Don’t pry off as it could cause

damage to nail unit.

3. Buff nail. Gently buff natural nail with fine-block buffer to remove adhesive residue.

4. Reapply nail tips. Follow routine nail tip application.

5. Perform desired service.

Nail tips are a great way for clients to wear long and glamorous-looking nails. Due to the nature of the

procedure, numerous follow-up maintenance services are needed and result in return business and

increased revenue for the nail technician. Care should be taken throughout the procedure to avoid

damage to the natural nail.

Nail Terminology

Often time terms associated with nails and artificial enhancements are either unclear in their definition,

or confusing by their very nature. Most of these terms have a chemical relation, yet they can be easy

terms to comprehend. The list below contains terminology associated with natural and artificial nails,

procedures, and a few product definitions.

• Adhesive: A chemical that causes two surfaces to stick together.

• Allergen: A substance capable of producing an exaggerated or adverse reaction, such as

sneezing, coughing, rash or irritation in sensitive individuals.

• Allergic Reaction: Allergic reaction, or an allergy, is an adverse reaction to the body usually

characterized by skin redness, itching, blisters and localized swelling.

• Acrylic: A polymerized polymer coating.. This coating is formed through the combination of an

exact mix ratio of monomer to polymer. Today's acrylic monomers (liquid) are made with Ethyl

Methacrylate (EMA) due to its inherent flexibility. Acrylic polymers (powder) contain

approximately 70% EMA, and 30% MMA (Methyl Methacrylate). These combinations of

chemicals create an enhancement that is both flexible and strong and mimics the natural nails

flexibility and strength.

• Bacteria: A single cell organism. Some bacteria are capable of causing disease.

• Balance Point Positioning: Stabilizing your working hand on your other hand for steady control.

• Benzoyl Peroxide: A heat-sensitive initiator used in monomer and polymer systems.

• Breathing Zone: The two foot sphere around each persons mouth, from which all your

breathing air is drawn.

• Brittleness: The properties that determine how likely something is to break under force.

• Chemical: Everything you see and touch except for light and electricity.

• Contamination: To make impure, infected, corrupt, etc., by contact with or addition of

something.

• Co-polymer: Polymers made of two or more different types of monomers.

• Cross-linked: Polymers that create a chemical bond between two other polymer chains.

• Crystallization: An undesirable, but preventable formation of tiny crystals in the uncured nail

coating that usually results from unusually cold temperatures or drafts. Liquid will actually

freeze and turn into a solid before it polymerizes with the powder (polymer).

• Cuticle: True cuticle is the layer of translucent or colorless skin that is constantly being shed

from the underside of the proximal nail fold.

• Dehydration: To remove moisture from a surface, substance or object this will improve

adhesion and help to prevent yeast, bacterial and fungal infections.

• De-lamination: The peeling apart of two improperly adhered surfaces. Natural nails can de-

laminate due to a lack of natural oil and moisture levels in the nail plate layers. Most often

referred to as 'lifting'.

• Dermis: The dermis is the bottom layer of skin. The surface of the dermis is grooved with many

tiny channels, slits or tracks, upon which the nail moves as it grows.

• Disinfection: A procedure used to control micro-organisms on non-living surfaces such as:

instruments, implements or environmental surfaces.

• Distal Edge of Plate: Distal means the farthest edge, or the free edge.

• Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA): Ethyl Methacrylate is most widely used in monomer form as one

part of the system used to create artificial nail enhancements. EMA can be safely soaked from

the nail plate for complete removal. EMA is a 'flexible' monomer.

• Etch: The process of rendering a design on a hard surface (such as glass) by corroding its surface

with acid. This term is often used to describe the filing process used to remove the surface

shine from natural nails in preparation for a nail enhancement service. 'Etching' is usually

accomplished by using a heavy grit file to remove the surface shine, and to disrupt the nail plate

layers. Today's products do not require the use of this damaging method to ensure adhesion.

• Epidermis: The epidermis is the upper most layer of skin. It is attached to the bottom of the

nail plate and is ridged with tiny 'rails' that run in the same direction as the dermis grooves. The

effect is much like a train riding on its tracks as it moves forward.

• Eponychium: The eponychium is the extension of the proximal nail fold at the base of the nail

body which partly overlaps the lunula.

• Esters: A small specific portion of a structure of a molecule. All nail coating polymers, except

for polishes, contain esters.

• Flash Point: The temperature at which a substance gives off a sufficient amount of vapors to

form an ignitable mixture with air. Products with a low flash point (below 100° F) should not be

used in the presence of (or near) fire, flame, sparks or high heat, i.e., a lit cigarette or

automobile trunks. The flash point of a product can be found in the MSDS.

• Flexibility: Determined by how much a substance will bend under force.

• Free Radicals: Very excited molecules which cause many kinds of chemical reactions.

• Fumes: Irritating smoke, vapor or gas.

• Fungi: Fungi are microscopic plant organisms consisting of many cells, such as mold, mildews

and yeast. Fungi are incapable of manufacturing their own food and behave as either parasites

or saprophytes.

• Gel (Nails): Gel is often referred to as not being acrylic, when in fact they are based on both the

methacrylate and the acrylate family, and are indeed acrylic. Gels are made by pre-joining some

of the monomers into short chains called oligomers. Oligomers are single chains that are several

thousand monomers long. Gels create rigid surface coatings and are usually cured by exposure

to ultra violet light.

• Hardness: A measure of how easily a substance is scratched or dented.

• Hazardous Ingredient: Any substance which may be capable to causing physical or health

related injury to an exposed individual.

• Hydroxyl Ethyl Methacrylate (HEMA): HEMA is a protein specific monomer that will seek out

and firmly attach itself to the protein in the nail plate. HEMA is used as an additive to improve

adhesion.

• Hyponychium: the hyponychium is that portion of the epidermis under the free edge of the

nail.

• Interpenetrating Polymer Networks (IPN's): A polymer that weaves through other polymers

and increases cross-linking.

• Lateral Nail Fold: The lateral nail fold is the surrounding soft tissue around the sides of the

natural nail.

• Lunula: The lunula, or half moon, is located at the base of the nail. The area under the lunula is

the front of the matrix. The light color of the lunula may be due to the reflection of light where

the matrix and the connective tissue of the nail be join.

• Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): Chemical information sheets also containing safety

precautions on each potentially hazardous product one uses. It is an OSHA regulation for all

salons to have MSDS on premises for all products containing potentially hazardous chemicals.

• Matrix: The matrix is that part of the nail bed that extends beneath the nail root and contains

nerves, lymph and blood vessels. The matrix produces the nail and its cells undergo a

reproducing and hardening process. The matrix will continue to grow as long as it receives

nutrition and remains in a healthy condition.

• Mildew: A white or grayish coating formed by fungi on plant leaves, cloth, paper, etc..

• Mix Ratio: Relation in degree or number between two things.

• MMA (Methyl Methacrylate): MMA in its liquid form has been banned for use in the nail

industry due to the severity of allergic reaction and damage to the natural nail plate. It adheres

so tightly to the nail plate that it can literally rip the nail plate from the nail bed due to heavy

pressure from a blow or trauma to the nail. MMA is so hard that it cannot be safely removed

from the nail plate by soaking in any form of remover -- it must be filed from the nail plate with

a heavy abrasive.

• Mold: Any of various fungous growths formed on the surface of organic matter. Mold is not a

human pathogen.

• Monomer: Individual, reactive chemical units which may be linked together to form a polymer.

• Nail Bed: the nail bed is the portion of skin upon which the nail plate rests. It contains blood

vessels that supply nutrients to the fingertip.

• Nail Plate: The hard keratin coating that protects the fingertip and underlying tissue.

• Nail Root: The nail root is at the base of the nail and is embedded underneath the skin. It

originates from an actively growing tissue known as the matrix.

• OSHA: Occupational Safety and Health Administration.

• Overexposure: Chemical hazards caused from prolonged, repeated exposure beyond levels

specified as safe by regulatory agencies.

• Pathogen: A micro-organism which is capable of causing disease.

• Polymer: Any of numerous natural and synthetic compounds of unusually high molecular

weight consisting of repeated linked units, each a relatively light and simple molecule.

• Polymerization: The process of forming a polymer. To unite two or more monomers to form a

polymer.

• Prep: Prep contains chemicals such as Ethyl and/or Butyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol and other

ingredients. Prep is a temporary dehydrator and deep cleanser that will remove the moisture

and some of the oils from the nail plate layers. It will disinfect the nail plate, is a pH balancer,

and aids in physical and chemical bonding. The effects of prep will last approximately 30

minutes before the nails oil and moisture are replaced by natural means.

• Primer: Primers are usually made with 100% pure methacrylic acid. Although primers are

caustic to skin, they are not caustic to the nail plate. Primers aid in product retention because

one end of the molecular chain is attracted to the oil molecule in the natural nail plate, and the

other end is attracted to the monomer molecule. Primers act like double-sided sticky tape.

• Proximal Nail Fold: The proximal nail fold is often mistaken for the cuticle. The cuticle is

actually shed from the underside of the proximal nail fold. 'Proximal' means "nearest attached

end". The proximal nail fold acts like a gasket to seal off the matrix where the new nail plate is

growing.

• Pterygium: Pterygium is a reversal of the normal inward folding of the skin under the free edge

of the nail plate, or the lateral nail folds. This can be caused by trauma and by certain skin

conditions such as lichen planus. A dermatologist can sometimes remove this excess tissue by

using acid peels or surgery.

• Sanitation: Sanitation reduces the number of pathogens or bacteria on a surface.

• Sector Sculpting: Structurally engineering the enhancement for proper balance.

• Sensitization: Sensitization is a type of allergic reaction in which the affected person becomes

increasingly sensitive to the allergy causing substance through repeated and prolonged contact.

• Sensitizer: A chemical that causes a substantial portion of exposed people or animals to

develop an allergic reaction in normal tissue after repeated or prolonged exposure to a

chemical.

• Solehorn: the rigid epidermis stays attached to the bottom of the nail plate until it grows

beyond the free edge. This tissue is called the solehorn cuticle, and will eventually slough off by

itself or is removed during a manicure.

• Solidification: the process of turning from a liquid to a solid.

• Sterilization: Sterilization completely destroys all living organisms on an object or surface.

• Strength: The ability of a substance to withstand breakage under force.

• Vapor: The gas formed by the evaporation of liquids.

• Ventilate: To admit fresh air into a space in order to replace stale air.

• Viscosity: The measure of a liquid's ability to 'flow'; related to the thinness or thickness of a

liquid. You will see this term used on the MSDS.