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GAVROCHEMagazine

Meet the fashion pioneers who combine a love of style with their vision for an ethical world

ALSO INSIDE:The most alluring marinas in the world

Classic carsArt meets fashion

Luxury has never been so good:

Issue 1 September 2014

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ContentsSeptember 2014

YACHTS

THE LEADING MARINAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

GORMET

FINE DINING AND RESTAURANTS . . . . 11

CARS

REVIVAL OF THE CLASSIC CAR . . . . . . 18

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

ETHICAL LUXURY BRANDS . . . . . . . . . . 24

COVER STORY: ETHICAL

LUXURY BRANDS . . . . 8

FOUNDER &

EDITOR -IN -CHIEF

Martin Garvey

EDITOR

Marie -Anne Hamilton

COPYWRITER

Daniel Spence Agnew

ART CORRESPONDENT

Alexandra Wilk

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Alexandra Wilk

PUBLISHER

MGDS Media Ltd.

www.mgdsgroup.com

Tel: +44 208 432 2819

GAVROCHE MAGAZINE

www.gavroche.biz

Tel: +44 208 432 2819

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Editor ’s Note

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consectetur massa a lorem hendrerit vestibulum

sit amet sed enim. Praesent at l ibero eget justo

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rutrum ultrices t incidunt. Ut consequat turpis quis

el i t consectetur, in iaculis metus portt i tor. Nullam

ut egestas l igula.

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imperdiet neque, non posuere tortor. Quisque massa

dui, vestibulum in moll is eu, moll is non l igula. Cras

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Marie -Anne Hamilton, Editor

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The most alluring marinas in the worldItaly, southern France and the Caribbean are hard to beat, but the yachting community is travelling further afield these days. Seeking out old favourites and lesser known destinations, Gavroche pinpoints the places to be seen

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F rom quaint European harbours

to glossy new marinas packed

with designer boutiques or gl istening

Caribbean harbours, there is no

shortage of magnif icent yachting

destinations. The most challenging

question may well be where to go next.

“The Mediterranean remains the place

to see – or perhaps more appropriately,

‘the place to be seen ’ , says Lea Tintaud,

Charter Fleet Manager at Edmiston. “It

has the infrastructure, the restaurants,

nightl i fe, scenery and facil i t ies that

people have come to expect.

“There’s also a continued increase

in the number of yachts venturing

further af ield, with many wanting to

explore more exotic destinations.”

Croatia, Greece and Turkey are al l

popular these days.

“It seems extraordinary that

a destination such as Croatia has

remained relatively undiscovered, but

now it ’s on every yacht ’s must -see

l ist ,” says Lea. “The Caribbean’s not

as popular as i t was, but that ’s dif f icult

to see i f you’re anchored off St Barts

for New Year!”

1. Marina Grande, Capri

This exclusive haven has always

attracted a glamorous crowd. In the

1950s, the l ikes of Clark Gable, Sofia

Loren and Jackie Kennedy would

congregate on the island, while more

recently, celebrit ies such as George

Clooney, Julia Roberts and Harrison

Ford have f locked there.

Even so, with its pastel houses

and brightly coloured f ishing boats,

Capri st i l l retains more than a dash of

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old -world charm.

There are 10 superyacht berths,

al l just a short stroll from numerous

designer boutiques stocking Ital ian

labels such as Pucci,

Ferragamo and Versace,

plus delicatessens sell ing

Neapolitan delicacies. The

most expensive marina

in the world, i t costs an

average of EUR2,900 to

moor a superyacht.

When to go: The Rolex

Capri Sail ing Week, May

2. Marina di Portofino

One of the prett iest harbours

of al l , idyll ic Portofino was once a

small f ishing vil lage and is often only

At night al l the l ights from the bars and

restaurants reflect in the sea

accessible by sea – the single road

leading to i t is closed for most of the

year.

Regular visitors include Steven

Spielberg and Coldplay’s

Chris Martin, and Russian

bil l ionaire Andrey

Melnichenko – owner of

119 metre Phil ippe Starck-

designed superyacht A.

“You can sit in the

restaurants and watch

the l i tt le pointu boats

[tradit ional sai l ing boats]

hustle for space amongst

the large superyachts,” says

Tintaud.

With only 14 berths for yachts,

including six for superyachts, i t can be

hard to get a space.

7

The place is brimming with

history and visitors can stroll in the

streets l ined with plane trees or visit

the morning f lower market.

When to go: Cannes Film Festival , May;

Cannes Yachting Festival , September

5. Port Hercules, Monaco

Nestl ing in the heart of this

exclusive principality, at the

foot of the Rock of Monaco, Port

Hercules is hard to beat when

it comes to gl i tz and glamour.

It has the most mill ionaires

per square capita in the world

and even featured in the James

Bond movie GoldenEye. That said,

some prefer Monaco’s smaller Port de

Fontviei l le.

“But Port Hercule is st i l l a great

location to be in and a necessity for

stopping in Monaco!” says Tintaud.

When to go: Monte Carlo Rally,

January; Monaco Grand Prix, May;

Monaco Yacht Show, September.

When to go: Portofino Rolex Trophy,

May

3. Porto Cervo, Sardinia

Porto Cervo was founded by the

Aga Khan who used it as a private

retreat for his fr iends and family.

These days, Silvio Burlusconi owns a

vil la here, and come high

summer, the marina is

packed with superyachts.

“Mooring up outside

Café du Port amongst

the other large yachts is

fantastic,” says Tintaud.

“The l itt le vi l lage on

the island is also very

beautiful with quaint houses and

luxury boutiques. I also love the

small wooden bridges connecting the

different vil lages.”

During summer months, the place

heaves with the Ital ian jet -set and the

l ikes of Kate Moss, Denzel Washington

and George Clooney.

When to go: Deluxe Fair, June; Maxi

Yacht Rolex Cup, September

4. Vieux Port de Cannes, Cote D'Azur

Anyone wanting to soak up

the glamour of Cannes Film Festival

should book at least a year in advance

to guarantee a coveted spot here on the

French Riviera.

“The marina in itself is pretty

common although the sight of the

Palais du Festival is very impressive,”

says Tintaud. “It ’s perfect for those

who want to go luxury shopping and

clubbing!”

The town is brimming with history

and in quieter

moments

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Montenegro has grown to be one

of the hottest destinations for the

el ite yachting crowd –

particularly as it caters for

today’s larger superyachts.

There are plenty of

boutiques, restaurants and

sporting faci l i t ies, as well

as cultural events at Porto

Montenegro Yacht Club.

“A great new marina and

perfectly situated for those making

their way further down the Dalmation

Coast,” says Tintaud.

When to go: September and October

for peaceful late summer days. .

8. Marina Hvar, Croatia

Said by some to be the most

beautiful place in Croatia, the island

Montenegro has

grown to be one

of the hottest

destinations

for the el ite

yachting crowd

6. Port de la Plaisance de Bonifacio,

Corsica

This spectacular

port wins hearts. “To

me, this is the most

beautiful port entrance

of the world,” says Lea .”

The impressive rocks are

layered l ike cake and the

old fortress town is out of

this world. You can f ind

along the promenade small markets

and boutiques for picking up some

lovely souvenirs and the restaurants

are always buzzing in the summer.”

When to go: Anytime over the summer.

7. Porto Montenegro, Croatia

Since opening in 2009, on the

site of a formal naval base, Porto

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of Hvar is famed for i ts lavender

f ields, ol ive groves and vineyards.

Meanwhile, the picturesque main town

boasts cobbled streets, pretty shuttered

windows and sophist icated night l i fe.

“The marina offers the best scene

in the evening, but most prefer to

anchor off one of the thousand islands

and inlets,” explains Tintaud. “Hvar

and Porto Montenegro have some

way to go to catch up with Monaco,

but people certainly have it in their

sights.”

When to go: June/July to see the

lavender f ields; August for parties.

9. Yas Marina, Abu Dhabi

While Middle Eastern marinas

may lack in old - fashioned charm, they

do boast the most fabulous faci l i t ies.

Handily situated beside Abu Dhabi ’s

Formula 1 race track, on the man-

made island, Yas Marina has been

compared to Cannes. Despite being a

Muslim country, locals are said to be

tolerant of the lavish parties thrown

at the marina during the

Grand Prix.

“Dubai, Qatar and

Abu Dhabi have grown

very popular,” says Libby

Gordon from The Yacht

Harbour Association.

“They’re not as pretty

as some of the European

marinas, but people love

the shopping and hotels.”

When to go: Abu Dhabi

Grand Prix, November

10. YCCS Marina Virgin Gorda,

British Virgin Islands

An ideal base for cruising the

Caribbean, this corner of paradise not

only has a state -of -the -art marina,

but also benefits from being close to

Bitter End Yacht Club and Relais and

Chateau hideaway Biras Creek Resort.

As well as the endless possibil i t ies for

scuba diving, f ishing and snorkell ing,

i t is also the Caribbean base of Yacht

Club Costa Smeralda.

The marina, which opened in

2012, was developed using sustainable

design practices and accommodates 38

yachts up to 88 metres long.

When to go: al l year round, especially

March for the Loro Piana Caribbean

Superyacht Regatta.

Others to consider:

Port de Saint -Tropez, France:

the iconic Riveria town hosts the

10

International Polo Cup in July and

Giraglia Rolex Cup in June

Ibiza Magna: amongst the mega yachts

seen here are those owned by Indian

steel bi l l ionaire Lakshmi Mittal and

Roman Abramovich.

Limassol, Crete: this elegant

development has been compared to

Marina Grande in Capri and the Dubai

Marina.

Bodrum Palmarina, Turkey: peerless

faci l i t ies and its location on the

Turkish Riviera have attracted the

world ’s biggest movers and shakers to

Palmarina.

Port of Gustavia, St Barts: A popular

spot over Christmas and lavish f irework

display at New Year.

Events this month:

Southampton Boat Show:

12-21 September

southamptonboatshow.com

Cannes Yachting Festival:

9-15 September

cannesyachtingfestival .com

11

Michelin star restaurants of the worldGavroche takes a look at the very best in fine dining

12

M ichelin Stars are awarded to an

el ite number of restaurants and

are highly coveted by international

chefs. A truly luxurious award and

synonymous with excellence, a

Michelin restaurant wil l command

loyalty and custom through its stars

alone. As the watermark of luxury

cuisine, Michelin awards 0 to 3 stars

to restaurants on the basis of the

anonymous reviews. Concentrating

on the quality, technique, personality

and consistency of the cuisine, they do

not look at interiors or service when

awarding stars.

However, the guide does show

forks and spoons, which simply

conveys just how elegant or informal

a restaurant may be. A three-star

Michelin restaurant is one “worthy of a

special journey, indicating exceptional

cuisine where diners eat extremely

well , often superbly. Distinctive

dishes are precisely executed, using

superlative ingredients” .

London’s Dorchester Hotel

With regular appearances in

countless best -restaurant l ists across

the world, Alain Deucasse’s three-

star Michelin restaurant at London’s

Dorchester Hotel is one of the f inest

in Europe. There are only four UK

restaurants with three Michelin stars

and London’s crème de la crème resides

in fashionable Mayfair. Surrounded by

4,500 shimmering f ibre optics, which

drop dramatically from the ceil ing, the

‘Table Lumière ’ is the centrepiece of

the restaurant, adorned with specially

selected Hermès china, Puiforcat

si lverware and exquisite Saint -Louis

crystal .

French chef Alain Deucasse

takes guests on an immersive culinary

journey, starting with luxuriously

presented amuse -bouche served in a

porcelain egg and f inishing with divine

‘Chamonix ’ cakes. Seasonal produce

from Britain and France are eloquently

served on The Dorchester menu.

His signature dishes include ‘Sauté

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gourmand ’ of lobster, truff led chicken

quenelles and homemade pasta; Fil let

of beef Rossini , crunchy cos lettuce,

‘sacristain ’ potatoes and the decadent

Baba l ike in ‘Monte -Carlo ’ .

Le Meurie, Paris

Likewise his equally sophisticated

Le Meurie restaurant in Paris has three

Michelin stars too. France is home to

27 three -star Michelin restaurants and

nine are located in Paris. Capturing the

essence of a luxury French restaurant,

the rococo ceil ing décor of Le Meurie

takes inspiration from the royal

apartments of Versail les.

French designer Phil ippe Starck’s

dining rooms have a gi lded Napoleonic

Empire style, with antique furnishings

covered in French and Ital ian brocades.

The enormous Belle Etoile Suite has

an extraordinary 360 -degree panorama

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and outdoor terrace measuring nearly

3,000 square feet - the only one of i ts

kind in Paris. Bathrooms are equally

luxurious with marble detail ing,

designer toi letries, and deep tubs.

Operating under the guidance

of superstar chef Alain Ducasse

since autumn 2013, Le Meurice offers

superb dining with his young protégé

Christophe Saintagne serving refined

French cuisine that exemplif ies the

seasonal ingredients.

La Pergola, Rome

Rivall ing the quality of Ducasse’s

French cuisine is Rome’s only three-

star Michelin restaurant, La Pergola,

which overlooks St Peter 's Basil ica

from the starry heights of Monte

Mario. Surrounded by rare Aubusson

tapestry, Sèvres porcelain, imperial

furniture and a wonderful collection of

hand-blown glass by Emile Gallé , the

Ital ian restaurant also has an exclusive

Cigar Lounge, where you can savour

a great cigar with a vintage l iquour

while savouring the beautiful décor.

Widely considered to be the ‘best

restaurant in Rome ’ , the Michelin

Guide has honoured La Pergola with

three stars and f ive forks, which is

a universal symbol of exceptional

cuisine. Indeed any restaurant that has

a wine cellar with over 60,000 bottles, a

water menu with 29 choices, can make

a f ine claim of culinary excellence.

Running under the aegis of German

chef Heinz Beck, La Pergola ’s , haute

15

cuisine, is served on vermeil plates

and cutlery. Capturing the seasonal

qualit ies of the Mediterranean, Rome’s

only three -star Michelin restaurant

is a master class in Ital ian cuisine.

Individual highlights include the black

cod in a f iery, peppery minestrone soup,

venison in a pistachio crust and Beck’s

signature dish, ‘Fagotell i La Pergola ’ .

Beck is a chef who not only possesses

a remarkable culinary abil i ty but also

a palate of the utmost refinement. His

remarkable taster dishes are object

lessons in the art of balance of f lavours,

textures and colour.

Eleven Madison Park, New York

Likewise across the Atlantic,

Swiss chef Daniel Humm’s masterfully

prepared cuisine at Eleven Madison

Park in New York rivals anything you

may experience in Europe. Arguably

the f inest dining experience in the

Big Apple, the three -star Michelin

restaurant is co -owned by Will Guidara.

The magnif icent Art Deco restaurant

has soaring 35 - foot ceil ings and

spectacular views of Madison Square

Park. Offering beautiful views of New

York, the restaurant is the perfect

sett ing for Humm’s styl ish cuisine,

which innovatively pays homage to the

city ’s culinary tradit ions.

While the epic New York building

contrasts heavily with the modest

portions, guests should expect to devote

three or four hours here as this three-

star Michelin restaurant is made up of

16

17

many acts. The multi -course tasting

menu is around $225 and pays homage

to New York longstanding food culture.

The Franco - influenced greenmarket

cuisine includes dishes such as Muscovy

duck glazed with lavender honey, and

foie gras terrine with plums, umeboshi

and bitter almonds.

Renowned for i ts four-course and

f ive -course tasting menus, the seasonal

cuisine celebrates local New York farm

and sea ingredients: oysters, scallops,

lobster, duck, and aged beef. The

foie gras terrine with plum and bitter

almond is a special favourite, and the

sturgeon presented as take on a New

York City bagel is a truly mesmerising

experience. There are also homemade

ales and spirits served exclusively for

Eleven Madison Park by Ithaca Beer

Co. and St. George Spirits.

Like her counterparts in Europe,

the three -star Michelin restaurant

focuses on the extraordinary

agricultural bounty of the local

environment. Capturing a universal

theme of culinary excellence, the

Michelin -star chefs of Alain Deucasse,

Heinz Beck and Daniel Humm represent

the joie de vivre of international

cuisine. Serving fresh, seasonal dishes

in historic sett ings, the Michelin

star chef ’s have food connoisseurs

marvell ing over their taster courses

and innovate cuisine. For excellence

represents the wise choice of many

alternatives - choice, not chance, wil l

determine your culinary destiny.

18

A vintage investment with thrillsAs prices continue to rise, classic motors could be the ultimate investment vehicle, but have the enthusiasts simply got carried away?

19

A t the giddy top end of the market,

there seems no l imit to what

collectors wil l pay for their ult imate

classic car. With prices cl imbing an

astonishing 47 per cent last year, what

was once a hobby suddenly started to

seem like a dream investment.

“The return can be astronomical.

Classic cars have outperformed the

FTSE by a considerable percentage

in the last f ive years,” says Marcus

Atkinson of classic car insurers Hagerty

International. “People are choosing to

invest disposable money in cars, f ine

art and wine. You can’t show off a

certi f icate of stock market results, but

you can show off an Aston Martin DB5.

With cars, there’s a certain element of

nostalgia but you can also drive them,

touch them, smell them, feel them.”

Exemption from capital gains tax

and continued low interest rates make

classic cars even more attractive.

“Ultimately any market is about supply

and demand. There’s a f inite supply of

collectors ’ motor cars and presently a

healthy appetite for them,” points out

James Knight, Bonhams Global Head

of Motoring.

Recent high profi le sales include

a 1954 Mercedes W196 that fetched

almost $30 mill ion (£19 mill ion) last

year, and a 1997 McLaren F1 GTR

Longtail which went for $5.28 mill ion

(£32 mill ion) in January. Expectations

were off the scale when a certain 1962

Ferrari 250 GTO was auctioned by

Bonhams in August, and the hammer

came down at $38 mill ion (£23 mill ion)

that day in California - less than many

expected.

20

According to an index of classic

cars compiled by Historic Automobile

Group International (HAGI), the

market has indeed slowed - growing

by a modest 8.42 per cent for the year

to July. But while recent years have

been reminiscent of the classic car

boom of the late 1980s (prices fel l

steeply in the early 1990s), experts

remain undaunted.

“I don’t think it ’s going to crash

as before, because this t ime people

are buying with cash instead of

borrowing,” explains Atkinson. “They

say ‘I ’ve always loved that car. I f I get

a good return, that ’s just the icing on

the cake ’ . Different areas of the market

are coming into play - South America,

the Far East and China.”

While the old classics - the

Ferraris, Aston Martins and E -Type

Jags - continue to appreciate in

value, the rally cars of the 1980s are

attracting more attention. It ’s the

modern collector cars which are being

courted by the next generation - the

21

l ikes of the Ford Sierra Cosworth and

the BMW M3 Evo,” says Atkinson. “A

1985 Audi Quattro Sport SWB Coupé

sold for £115,740 at Goodwood Revival

last year.”

Sports racing cars of the 1950s

that are equally at home on road or track

are also performing well , according to

Knight of Bonhams: “They’re a t icket

to some of the world 's greatest events

such as the Mille Miglia Retrospective,

Le Mans Classic and Goodwood

Revival.”

Of course, a six f igure sum is far

from essential to land a vintage motor.

An MG Midget can be bought for £3,000

to £4,000 and a Triumph TR4 for less

than £20,000. The dream for many is

a ‘barn f ind ’ , in need of care after

decades languishing in a garage.

At Classic Motor Cars in

Bridgnorth, Shropshire, Peter Neumark

oversees the restoration of Jaguars

and other vintage motors. It typically

costs around £150,000 to restore an

E -Type, and 60 per cent of his cars

are exported - to Europe, the Middle

East, Austral ia and North America.

“It was not always the case that

you could put money into a restoration

and get a return on your investment, but

these days you do,” he says. “We try to

make the restoration process enjoyable

for our cl ients. They’re involved in the

specif ications, the colour, the trim, and

if they want we’l l give them tasks to do

in the workshop. Anything is possible.

A Texan cl ient asked us to stretch his

E -type by 4.5 inches.”

Sadly, car investment funds

have yet to take off . One of the latest

projects is the PHD Classic Car Fund.

Launched earl ier this year by PHD

Equity Partners, they require a

minimum investment of £50,000.

“It ’s been a very buoyant market,

and we’re trying to give people

exposure to that, but with the added

benefit that they can use the cars

- rather l ike a prestige car club,”

explains investment associate Keith

Benson. “We want to invest in cars

worth £250,000 to £400,000 - the

ones that quali fy for high end events

22

l ike Goodwood Revival. These are the

models that attract value.”

They are yet to raise the £2 to £2.5

mill ion need to start investing

-possibly because wealthy enthusiasts

tend to own their own vintage cars.

Dietrich Hatlapa, a former

banker and founder of the Historic

Automobile Group, sounds a note of

caution, pointing out that cars that

do well in a rising market are more

vulnerable in periods of decline.

“They do not compare to mainstream

investments, and are highly i l l iquid,”

he warns. “You should buy with your

heart, not to boost your wallet .”

That said, he believes it is

possible to use classic investment

strategies. “Look for cars in sectors

that have underperformed, such as

Mercedes Benz and Porsche. It ’s also

worth looking at the performance of

individual cars, l ike the Aston Martin

V8.”

Ferraris have risen most steeply,

with prices going up by 62 per cent

last year alone. “Prices are very much

determined by rarity. Ferraris were

built in much smaller numbers than

Jaguar, but If you want to enjoy driving

a car, why not buy a car that ’s been

built in larger numbers?“ suggests

Hatlapa. “We recommend you get

involved in the sector before buying a

car, maybe join a classic car club and

go to events. I f you’re an enthusiast, by

all means invest in cars, but i f you’re

not, f ind something you’re passionate

about.”

Events this month:

International Autojumble at

Beaulieu Motor Museum

6-7 September

beaulieu.co.uk

Goodwood Rivival

12-14 September

grrc.goodwood.com

23

The secret of success

It pays to do your research when buying

a classic car, says Marcus Atkinson of

Hagerty International

- Get advice from someone neutral -

classic car clubs can often help. There

are plenty of consultants who will

accompany you to check out a car.

- Look for a good badge such as Jaguar,

Mercedes, Maserati , Aston Martin.

Seek out something a l i t t le quirky -

prices for the Aston Martin DB40, the

DB5 and DB6 have risen steeply, so

try an early DB7.

- Find a car that has been cherished,

with one ownership and low mileage.

-100.00%

-50.00%

0.00%

50.00%

100.00%

150.00%

200.00%

250.00%

300.00%

10/1

/200

612

/1/2

006

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2007

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2007

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/1/2

007

2/1/

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812

/1/2

008

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2014

Classic Car Market Relative Performance

Hagerty Price Guide Blue Chip Index FTSE 100 Price of Gold Per Ounce

- Establish the provenance of the car.

An i l lustrious past wil l add signif icant

value. In July, a 1987 Mercedes given

to Madonna by Sean Penn sold for

69,575 Euros (£55,700 ) well above the

expected price.

- Stick to your budget. Consider the

costs of restoration, maintenance and

storage.

-Auctions are where the prominent

cars tend to go. But websites wil l also

offer a wealth of cars.

- Drive as many as possible. Call up

and ask how long the car ’s been on the

market? Has anyone test-driven it?

What did they l ike and disl ike about i t?

Classic Car Market Relative Performance

24

The heart of luxury fashion

The founders of a London fashion label have proved that ethical clothing can be chic and the idea is taking root across the globe

25

Two young women from London

were sipping tea at the Imperial

Hotel in Delhi enjoying a Sunday treat

away from the slums where they were

working as volunteers when they hit

upon the idea of starting a fashion label

with a charitable ethos.

The idea might easi ly have been

forgotten once they returned to the

comforts of home back in 2010, but

Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia

Brennan felt compelled to help the

victims of traff icking who they had

met in India.

“We had no experience in fashion,

and everyone probably thought we

were sl ightly bonkers, admits Rufus

Isaacs, 31, who had recently left her

job at Sotheby ’s. But the idea came

from wanting to do something good.”

Armed with dress samples made

up in India, they threw themselves

into sett ing up their company, Beulah

London. Within months, they were

sell ing their f irst designs, soon to

be worn by cl ients including Pippa

Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge,

Sienna Miller, Sarah Jessica Parker

and Katherine Jenkins.

Just a few years ago,

the concept of “ethical

luxury” was virtually

unheard of , but Beulah

London is one of many

small companies to prove

that ethical can be chic, i t ’s not al l

about hemp T -shirts and hippy pants.

Fashionistas have taken the cause to

their hearts, and the big luxury brands

are gett ing increasingly involved too.

The whole business has been a

steep learning curve for Rufus Isaacs

and Brennan starting with their two

months in a Delhi slum, where their

afternoons were spent teaching sewing

to girls who had been traff icked for the

sex trade.

“It was a culture shock, but our

experience there had a huge impact,”

admits Brennan, 27, who lodged with a

couple who had adopted six boys with

HIV, and was overwhelmed to see the

love they lavished on the youngsters.

“They had given up so much

of their l ives to help others. . .” she

remembers.

For Rufus Isaacs

daughter of the 4th

Marquess of Reading, and

a pal of Prince Will iam

and Prince Harry the trip

had special meaning. Her

great -great -grandfather was once a

Viceroy of India. “It was very poignant

being there” , she says.

Both art history graduates, who

met at church, the friends were spurred

into action by the hopeless situation

I t was a culture

shock, but our

experience

there had a

huge impact

26

of the women they worked with in the

slum. Init ial ly, they funded Beulah

London with family loans, sett ing up

camp in Brennan ’s mother ’s basement

in Parsons Green, London. They were

sell ing their designs within months and

word spread fast , helped by the high

profi le women spotted wearing their

designs.

“One of the f irst was [US

actress] Jessica Alba who wore one

of our scarves in LA. That was really

excit ing!” admits Rufus Isaacs. “And a

completely new demographic for us!”

Last year the pair opened a

pop -up shop in London ’s Belgravia,

and stayed there. Though the main

collection is made in the UK. It ’s much

easier to control the quality canvas

bags, given away with every product

sold, are made in Delhi . Meanwhile,

the Beulah Trust funds skil ls courses

for the victims of traff icking.

Subtle touches hint at the

charitable ethos without labouring the

point. Beulah is a bibl ical term meaning

to come from a place of darkness into

one of l ight, and dove print fabric

al ludes to love and peace in the current

collection.

“People associate charity with

poor quality, I think ,” says Rufus

Isaacs. “First and foremost, we ’re

a luxury fashion label. I f a woman

spends £400 or £500 on a dress, i t has

to be beautiful . People discover about

the charitable ethos afterwards.”

“We have very loyal customers

who come back to us, and who are

ambassadors for the brand, because

27

they love the story. They ’ l l talk to

their fr iends about i t . I think they

understand that through their purchase

they are making a difference, but the

main thing is they l ike the

product.”

Her view is echoed

by Dr Iain Davies from

University of Bath, a

lecturer in marketing and

expert on ethical luxury

markets.

“If you ’re looking at luxury

fashion, the f irst thing you ’re going

to consider is the cut, the design,

the fabric. The values behind it are

secondary, and talking about them can

even damage a brand” , he says.

He believes people would rather

not know about sweat shops, child

labour and other dubious practices.

Even so, he says large luxury brands

have benefited from publicity after

introducing ethical

collections, and the

effect has been to

encourage others to

fol low suit .

“Overall I think

the fashion industry

is better than it was

f ive years ago,” he says. “As more

companies get involved, there ’s more

pressure on companies who don ’t do

these things. It can create change.”

High profi le designers are

influential . Zandra Rhodes, Stella

McCartney and Donna Karan are al l

People are starting

to understand that

sustainable fashion

does not lack in

design and can be

upmarket

28

known for their sustainable collections.

Amazingly, McCartney ’s studios and

off ices are even powered by wind

energy.

Orsola de Castro is the driving

force behind London Fashion Week ’s

Estethica - a showcase for sustainable

eco - fashion and is seeing att i tudes

evolve across the world.

“Many brands are really looking

at how they ’re producing their clothes” ,

says the Italian designer. “It ’s something

everyone is taking seriously.” The

Kering Group [owners of Gucci, Saint

Laurent Paris and Balenciaga] are one

company encouraging posit ive change.

Inditex, owner of high street chain

Zara, is one of the most advanced in

terms of the l iving wage, and Valentino

in terms of the dyes they use.

High -end designer Stamo founded

Ecoluxe London in 2010, and the non-

profit organisation recently opened a

boutique sell ing clothes and jewellery.

“Our customers have access to the

best things, so it has to be something

that catches their eye, she says.”

“People are starting to understand

that sustainable fashion does not lack

in design, and can be upmarket. It ’s

actually more expensive to produce!”

“It ’s always going to be about

the beautiful dress” , adds de Castro.

“But what I ’m starting to see is people

saying I don ’t think I want to buy this

dress unless I know how it ’s been

made.”