Gate #2

THE OFFICIAL

BRUSSELS SOUTH

CHARLEROI AIRPORT

MAGAZINE

#JUILLET 2009© SERGE ANTON

#2Tga

#CITY BREAKPRAGUE A CULT CITY

#PORTFIOLIOTENERIFE LAND OF FIRE

#ESCAPESLOVENIA BEAUTIFUL, CHEAP & AMAZING

Have you ever seen a beating hart, made out of diamonds and gems? Or a former commu-nist palace filled with disco lights and pumping techno beats? An island with black beachesand “Eternal Spring” at only 2 hours flying from Belgium? Or one of the world’s largestMosques that transforms into a patio? You can discover all this, and much more, by flyingfrom Brussels South Charleroi Airport this summer!The ruby red beating hart is one of the stunning jewels created by Salvador Dalí and on dis-play in his museum in Figueres, which is only half an hour drive from Girona Airport. Duringthe month of August you can even visit Dalí’s theatre museum at night while sipping a glassof cava. Ryanair flies twice a day to Barcelona-Girona. For those who like to dance all-night, the latest hype is to party within former communistpalaces in Sofia and Bucharest. Check out locally which venue is still “hot” and which oneis not. Wizzair flies 3 times per week to Sofia and 4 times per week to Bucharest. Tenerife has soft black beaches and an average temperature of 21° which makes it feel like“Eternal Spring”. To experience it yourself Jetairfly flies twice a week to Tenerife.An enormous prayer hall that can become a patio in 3 minutes thanks to its retractable roofis situated in Casablanca. The great Hassan II mosque has a 200m high minaret that makesit the highest religious building in the world. This architectural gem is also open to non-Muslims outside prayer time. Flights to Casablanca from Brussels South Charleroi Airportare operated daily by AirArabia and 6 times per week by Jet4you.

We look forward to making your travel -to one of the over 60 destinations- a pleasant andcomfortable experience and wish you “bon voyage” from Belgium’s friendliest airport!

EDMEE DE GROEVE CEO - President of the Board

EDITORIAL

6 PROFILE# JUSTIN ONCLIN, WINEMAKER8 TABLE TALK# BUDAPEST, MILAN, ZARAGOZA, BIARRITZ13 PORTFOLIO# TENERIFE, LAND OF FIRE18 ESCAPE# SLOVENIA24 yellow pages# 26 destinations# 28 airportlife# 32 IMPRESSIONS# BRATISLAVA 36 FOCUS WALLONIA# CHARLEROI, THE “BOIS DU CAZIER”

39 WALLONIA# AGENDA40 PLACES TO BE#LA ROCHELLE44 TRAVELLING WITH# MANCHESTER48 CITY BREAK# PRAGUE54 wine# 56 trends# 58 travel hype# 60 hotspot#68 podcast#

#2

Editorial Director: Christiane Thiry | Assistant: Hélène Rivière | Founder: Eric Poelemans | Writers:Emmanuel Batiot, Isabelle Blandiaux, Nicolas Bogaerts, David Gering, René Sépul, Mishka Tighil | Artdirector: Dominique Hambye | Printing: Sodimco | Sales & Marketing: Eric Poelemans (BrusselsSouth Charleroi Airport) – Mobile : +32(0)475 53 31 18 – [email protected]; Marie-Noëlle Raquez (RGP) – Mobile : +32(0)475305599 – [email protected] | Gate is publi-shed on behalf of BSCA by IPM | All correspondence should be addressed to: BSCA – Gate Rue desFrères Wright, 8 6041 Charleroi Belgium – [email protected]

photo cover: Serge Anton,Tenerife

CONTENTS

Justin OnclinWINEMAKER

WRITTEN BY RENÉ SÉPULPHOTO BY CICI OLSSON

stronger reputation in the wine world – youcan’t afford to miss the opportunity.” In 1999, he joined forces with the group Ballande, and together they took over theChâteau Prieuré-Lichine, 4th Grand Cru inA.O.C Margaux, which he manages. In2002, he bought the Château Branas GrandPoujeaux, in Moulis, which is now run by hisdaughter Carmen, and Château Villemaurine,Grand Cru Classé, one of the oldest vineyards in Saint-Emilion. In all theseplaces, the Belgian arrived with the intentionof respecting the heritage and the roots ofthe wine, while at the same time improving itwith his visionary drive and a contemporaryapproach. Château Branas in particular is anestate that has produced beautiful results. #

After working as a sales manager with JohnMonard, a Belgian wine importer, Justin Onclin went to Bordeaux in 1982, where heset up the firm Sovex Grands Châteaux – today “Sovex-Woltner”. The initial aimwas to create a firm of wine merchants targeting export markets, mainly in Europe.

Aware that the prestigious producers ofGrand Crus only used to sell their wines tomerchants firmly established in Bordeaux,Mr Onclin had to start by persuading theBelgian importers of the interest in having acompatriot based in Bordeaux, while simulta-neously convincing the producers of the ad-vantages of working with somebody familiarwith the specificities of the Belgian market.Skillfully combining his passion for wine witha sharp sense of business, Onclin quicklybecame a strong link between the two.

A bit of a headhunter, Mr Onclin sought outas yet unknown but promising producers, allthe while gaining the confidence of the mostprestigious “Domaines of Grands CrusClassés” from which he started to receivesmall amounts. Thus, during the 90’s, thecompany managed to make a strong placefor itself on the French market. From 1998,the company decided to target markets out-side Europe, particularly in the US and Asia.

Mr Onclin has also invested in a few properties of his own. “I would have missedsomething important if I hadn’t been able tomake my own wine”, he says with a smile.“This is a challenge that can give you a

In 2008, Justin Onclin was elected “Belgian Wine Personality ofthe Year”. He divides his time between Belgian Limburg, where hewas born, and Bordeaux, where he owns four domaines. #

7#PROFILE

PRACTICAL For visits, please book ahead, Bordeaux is notas easy to visit as vineyards in Alsace, Burgundy or Beaujolais.

CHATEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE | 34 Avenue de la République | 33460 Cantenac | T. +33 5 57 88 36 28

CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE | 23 VillemaurineSud | 33330 St Emilion | T. +33 5 57 74 46 44

CHÂTEAU BRANAS GRAND POUJEAUX |33480 Moulis-en-Médoc | T. +33. 5 56 58 93 30

There are two flights a week from Charleroi Airport from July onward, with prices starting at24.99 €. The village of Saint Emilion is located60 km from Bergerac-Roumanière Airport. Cantenac and Moulis in Médoc are just a littleover 60 km from Saint Emilion.

8#TABLE TALK

Last year, Budapest was voted one of the “Best Places to Live in Europe” by experts at American business magazine Forbes. Nicknamed “The city of Spas”, the Hungarian capital also has a repu-tation as a food capital, that dates back to the late 19th century. #

RENÉ SÉPUL BUDAPEST

The city’s restaurant scene has seen an incredible transformation in the last fifteen years, and,believe me, almost every style of cooking can now be found on the menus of the city’s restau-rants. The spacious Café Gerbeaud is an institution in Pest, where it has been serving coffeesand cakes since 1858. Its theatrically gilded interior seats more than 300, making it one of thebiggest cafés in Europe. The café of the Boscolo New York Palace, for years the meeting pointfor intellectuals and artists, is another institution. This building, with its neo-Renaissance architecture, was built in 1889 by a Mr. Hauszman, to house the offices of the American insu-rance company New York Life. The street level café opened in the same year. The style is quitestunning, blending Rococo and Byzantine, with columns, countless mirrors and small mezza-nines designed to accommodate the secret meetings of the past. This was already “the” placeto be seen in in Budapest from 1900 to 1930. It is said that one day playwright Ferenc Molnar threw the café’s keys into the Danube to ensure that it would never close. # GerbeaudVörösmartyr tér 7/8 | Boscolo New York Palace | Erzsébet krt. 9-11 | 1073 Budapest | Tel. 36 1 8866111www.boscolohotels.com | Prices from 127 € for a double including breakfast. Offers and packages on Internet. Daily flights to Budapest with Wizz Air.

BOSCOLO NEW YORK PALACE

The glitz is back to Biarritz. The posh seaside town in southwestFrance is enjoying a renaissance, as people discover the appeal of thisgastronomic destination. Once the vacation spot for Europe’s nobleand gentry classes, Biarritz’s shores are now shared by everyone frombronze beauties to surfers, professional golfers or beach lovers. #

B I A R R I T Z

HOTEL DU PALAISHotel du Palais is without any doubt the place to stay. Facing the Grande Plage, this hotel soaked in history from when it was the palace of Napoleon III’s Spanish-born wife, Eugénie.There is a spa, a miniature golf course and a pool that was inaugurated in the 50’s by BingCrosby, Gary Cooper and Jayne Mansfield. This pool is probably the best place to sip a glassof Jurançon, a local wine, or to watch the world go before reaching Villa Eugénie for dinner.

Jean-Marie Gautier, chef of the hotel’s famous restaurant, is famous for working with typicalingredients of the Aquitaine region, such as fish and seafood, goose and duck-liver creations, truffles and porcini, as well as Bordeaux wines. He draws on a vast reservoir ofepicurean treasures but has a knack for uniting them with solidly down-to-earth ingredientsin a very innovative way. # 1, Avenue de l’Impératrice | www.hotel-du-palais.com | In June 09, the“Imperial Golf package” included accommodation, green fee in one of the 11 golf courses of the region and free access to the Imperial Spa for 275 € per person. Daily on Tuesday, Thursday & Satur-day to Pau with Ryanair.

10#TABLE TALK

Spain is a favorite destination for holidaymakers, but how many of us ever venture beyond Barcelona, Seville, Madrid or the Costas?If you venture into the Spanish provinces, you might enjoy a night in a Parador, one of the government-owned hotels in a chain with locations in some of the most beautiful properties and sites. #

ZARAGOZA

PARADOR DE ALCANIZThere have been complaints in the past about the way they are run – civil servants are not natu-ral hoteliers –, but progress has been made. In 2009, the chain celebrates its 80th anniversaryand is highlighting its gastronomy as a symbol of all those years of success, with menus ineach hotel based on traditional Spanish cuisine, prepared using local seasonal produce.

Built on the la Cumbre Cerro Pui Pinos hill top, the Parador de Alcaniz is a 12th-13th Centurycastle convent that became the headquarters of the Order of Calatrava in 1179. This Parador,which dominates the Maestrazgo landscape, has several preserved buildings, and, with its gothic murals and baroque façade, is decorated in shades of red, ochre and green, and has oakbeams. As to food, the local specialties are huevos a la alcanizana (an Alcañiz–style egg dish),ternasco Asado (roast young lamb) and tortas de Alma y Almendrados (an almond tart). Enjoytrying these with the local wines of Somontano and Carinena.# Parador de Alcaniz | Castillo Calatravos | 44600 Alcaniz | www.parador.es | Prices from 155 € without breakfast (15 €). Ryanairflights to Zaragoza (Pyrenees) every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. The airport is 105 kmfrom Alcaniz.

On the western shore of Lake Garda there is an earthly paradise. Built in 1892, the neo-gothic Villa Feltrinelli was designed by the sonsof a wealthy Italian magnate as the family’s summer residence. #

B E R G A M O

VILLA FELTRINELLIIn 1997, this castellated, pink-striped villa was converted into a luxury hotel by Bob Burns, thefounder of Regent International Hotels, who gave new life to a residence that counts Mussoliniamong its less desirable guests (Il Duce was imprisoned here by the Germans from 1943-5).The € 24-million refurbishment of the villa, with no expense spared, took 5 years, culminatingin the creation of the luxurious suites that are spread over the 8 acres of this lake-front property.Mr. Burns restored the villa and its surroundings to the highest standards imaginable. Designteams from around the globe were consulted about period features and stylistic coherence inthe modernisation of a location filled with antiques. Opened in 2001, the Villa Feltrinelli is nevertheless said to have the welcoming atmosphere of a country house rather than a hotel.But bear in mind that’s not the best place to go with kids, especially if yours are football crazy like mine! Dinner is served in the covered dining pergola adjacent to the main dining roomoverlooking Lake Garda, where guests can enjoy the view as they dine by the light of Vene-tian chandeliers. # A Villa Feltrinelli | Via Rimembranza 38-40 | Gargnano | Tel. 39 0365 798000 |www.villafeltrinelli.com | Prices from 800 € | Offers and packages on Internet. 3 flights per day to MilanBergamo with Ryanair. The airport is 96 km from the hotel.

13#PORTFOLIO

tEnErifeLAND OF FIRE

PHOTOS BY SERGE ANTON

14#PORTFOLIO

16#PORTFOLIO

FLIES TO TENERIFE

LA SIESTA HOTELLocated on the best part of the Playa De LasAmericanas, this elegant hotel has 282 roomseach with a fully equipped bathroom, air conditioning, telephone, satelite television andminibar. Renovated in 2004, it offers a furnished terrace and nice restaurants. Thehotel has also a seawater swimming pool foradults and a separate one for children. www.jetair.be

ON WEDNESDAY & SATURDAY

Piran, city-museum and his bell tower, on the edges of Mediterranean Sea.

Walking in the National park of Triglav.

RENÉ SÉPUL

19#ESCAPE

SLOVENIABEAUTIFUL, CHEAP

AND AMAZINGIn front of us, there was the old part of the city – curving cobblestonealleys and streets, a river that traced a slender curve between centuries-old buildings, quiet plazas with statues, and a patchwork of red tiledroofs. Memories of Istria. #

This was in Slovenia, a country that in a previous life was part of the Federation ofYugoslavia, but today shares borders withCroatia, Austria and Italy. The country hasonly about two million inhabitants and covers an area smaller in size than Wallonia.

BEACHES, OLD CITIES AND PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN SLOVENE ISTRIAYou’ll find the sea in Slovenia. There are noreally good long beaches here, but there areold cities like Piran, with its wonderful architecture. This medieval town has domi-nated the bay for centuries, and has alwaysdepended on the sea for its living. Not far

It could have been Italy, or maybe evenFrance. But with my back to the horizon, I was gazing at verdant hills rising into the one of the continent's most majesticlandscapes – the stony, vertiginous Alps, ascene that could have been in Switzerland,or maybe even Austria.But there was something different in themood, more space. There were very fewtourists about and I remember that nobodyworried about money because everythingwas so cheap, especially hotels and restaurants. The warm, welcoming smiles ofcurious, friendly people were signs that Iwas moving along a less travelled path in avery hospitable country.

20#ESCAPE

are plenty of possibilities for everyone. Families and leisure cyclists will enjoy valleys and flat areas with quiet roads, whileadvanced cyclists and mountain bikers cantake on Alpine mountain passes and someof the most spectacular trails in this part ofthe world. To make your cycling holidays asvaried as possible, the Slovenian TouristBoard (STB) has harmonised and expandedservices. You’ll find cycling hotels, hostels,campsites and farms devoted to this kind oftourism. Cyclists and bikers will find maps ofcycling tours and routes, marked cyclingroutes and trails, qualified cycling guides, bicycle hire and a few bicycle repair shops.See www.slovenia.info/org

Selected by National Geographic Traveler inits “50 Tours of a Lifetime 2007”, Sloveniais also a sublime alpine hiking destination.The rugged Julian Alps are just as domina-ting and beautiful as the Swiss and FrenchAlps, but they come with one very big diffe-rence – far fewer hikers. The Slovenian National Park of Triglav is a great destination.Named after the highest mountain of Slove-nia, it has a storybook landscape of drama-tic mountain peaks, picturesque hamlets,shimmering alpine lakes, and historic sitesdating back to the Iron Age. There are alsopleasant walks suitable for beginners nearPodkoren, an Alpine village in the vicinity ofKranjska Gora, from which you can reachMount Pec, a 1508 high peak on the frontierwith Slovenia, Italy and Austria. There aremany other walks around Kranjska Gora,Martuljek, the Lake Bled region, and thegorgeous Soca River valley. The VintgarGorge, the Pokljuka high plateau, and LakeBohinj are destinations for advanced hikers.

from here, have a look at Izola and Koper;throughout history this town has ruled overthe region, as can be seen from its art, architecture and customs.

The hills of the hinterland of Slovene Istriaroll like waves. Here you find scattered pictu-resque villages of stone houses clusteredaround their church for protection, where therhythm of life is devoted to earth and nature.

KARSTThe Karst is a region of plains which sits likean upper storey above the coast and theGulf of Trieste, a step towards the foothillsof the Julian Alps. The region hides a seriesof underground caves of the varying sizesand great beauty. The Vilenica Cave, whichlies near the village of Lokev, has the longesttradition of caving tourism in Europe. As early as 1633 Count Petazzi, the locallandowner, gave the cave to the local parish,which managed it as a resource and openedit up to visitors. Probably the most populartourist site in Slovenia, the Postjona Cave,is a remarkably long system, which, thanksto the erosion powers of the Pivka River, isone of the most beautiful in the world. TheSkocjan Caves have been a Unesco WorldHeritage site since 1986. They contain over5 km of subterranean trails, sinkholes andwaterfalls. With some parts as deep as 200m, these caves are a phenomenal naturalwonder, as well as being a major source ofBronze Age artifacts.

HIKING AND CYCLING PARADISESlovenia has become an increasingly popular destination for hiking and cycling.Thanks to the diversity of its terrain, there

The grapevine, another reason to go there.

Walking in Julian Alps.

Kayaking on the river Soca.Peninsula of Piran and the bay of Portoroz, pearl of Istria.

22#ESCAPE

LJUBLJANAWith a population of 300,000 that includes60,000 college students, Ljubljana has en-ough genuine charm to withstand exposure.Although not all of this relatively compactcity is of interest, its old part, which lies atthe centre, is well worth a visit. Its most picturesque streets lie along the Ljubljanicariver, which is latticed with stone bridgesand hemmed by weeping willows. From the16th-century fortress walls on top of CastleHill, the view of the capital city is exquisite:waves of red-tiled roofs, turquoise domes,spires and, here and there, lacy bridgesspanning the river, stitching the two sides ofthe capital city together.

Offering a graceful marriage of Slavic, Austrian, and Italian cultures, the city startedto gain a reputation as an up-and-cominghotspot not long after Slovenia became independent. The arts scene includes a localopera company, an orchestra, and a musicfestival that runs all summer long. The best place for imbibing the atmosphereis Preseren Square, the city's bustling socialhub, which is anchored by the 17th-centuryFranciscan Church of the Annunciation andmonastery and the Triple Bridge. On theother side of the twin-towered Cathedral ofSt. Nicholas, the outdoor market is a blazeof color where farmers bring their producefrom villages like Trnovo and Krakovo.

WINESSlovenia has an impressively long traditionof wine making. Comparisons are alreadybeing made between Slovenia and Burgundy. Those who like to spend their holidays wine tasting will love this country.There are no really huge wine producershere, and what travellers will usually find willbe small, family-owned businesses and awarm welcome from the locals.

The country’s diverse geography creates avariety of microclimates. Goriska Brda andthe Vipava valley are among the most famouswine growing areas. Primorska has a very visible Mediterranean influence, and manyvineyards are located on the foothills of Julian and Karavanke Alps. Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon are among themost frequent grape varieties grown here,but more and more producers are going forlocal and less well known varieties such asRibolla Gialla, Malvasia, Kerner, Pikolit, Vitovska, Sipon or Pinela, which offer veryindividual, different wines. To find out whichproducers to visit, take a look at the brochure Wine Road of the Lower VipavaValley, published by the tourist authority. #

INFO General info: www.slovenia-tourism.si Getting There: Ryanair flies from Charleroi toTrieste – Aeroporto Friuli Venezia Giulia – twicea week, on Sundays and Wednesdays. The border is a few kilometres from the airport.Getting Around: The most efficient way to travelinto Slovenia is by car. Major car rental agencies have desks at the airport

WHERE TO STAY LJUBLJANAL | ANTIQ HOTEL | Gornji trg 3L |Cosy and charmingL | www.antiqhotel.siPIRAN | HOTEL PIRAN | From 80 € for a double out of season, with breakfast | www.hoteli-piran.si PORTOROZ | HOTEL EXCELCIOR | The hotelhas completed a five-year restoration program,and has both a historic building and a newly-builtmodern section. Amazing view and a luxuriousspa | See www.kempinski-portoroz.comAGRITOURISM | KABAJ MOREL |www.kabaj.eu

FLIES TO TRIESTEON WEDNESDAY & SUNDAY

Rue des Frères Wright 86041 CHARLEROI (Belgium)+32 71 251 [email protected]

WEBSITE www.flyonair.itCALL CENTER

+39 058 432 22 38

WEBSITE www.jet4you.comCALL CENTER BELGIUM

078 160 222

24#yellow pages

WEBSITE www.jetairfly.comCALLCENTER 070 22 00 00JETAIRCENTER CHARLEROI [email protected]

+32 71 258 062

WEBSITE www.ryanair.comCALLCENTERS Belgium French speaking0902 88 007Belgium English speaking0902 88 009

International English speaking

+353 1 248 08 56

WEBSITE www.wizzair.comCALL CENTER BELGIUM

0903 41 405WEBSITE www.airarabia.com

DOOR TODOOR SHUTTLE

A partner companytakes passengers

between their destinationsin Belgium (www.minibus-services.be)& North of France(www.aeronavex.fr)

by luxury mini-bus.

26#

28#airportlife

RENÉ SÉPULPHOTOS CICI OLSSON

CHARLEROIAIRPORTBehind the Scenes

1SAFETY AND SECURITY

Do follow safety and security instructions: they’refor your own good! Hand luggage must go through an

obligatory x-ray control and may also be subject to a visualor manual search. If you have keys or any other metal

objects in your pockets, put them in a tray to go through the x-ray control. The same goes for any items you may be wearing, even if not metal, such as watches, bracelets, neck-laces, belts etc, coats, jackets and sometimes even shoes! It is strictly forbidden to carry any sharp objects like knives, scissors, cutters, or any kind of weapon or object that could be used as a weapon, in your luggage. Any object of thistype will be removed at security checks and may be

destroyed without compensation. lf you wear a pacemaker or any other orthopaedic implant,

please inform the security officer and do notgo through the metal detector gate.

2LUGGAGE

Never leave your luggage unattended inside the terminal.The regulations require immediatedestruction of any baggage that seems lost and therefore

suspect, and no compensa-tion will be paid.

30#airportlife

YOUR RIGHTS IN THE EVENT OF DELAY

If your flight is delayed (2 hours for flightsup to 1,500 km, 3 hours for all intra-Com-

munity flights of more than 1,500 km, and allother flights between 1,500 and 3,500 km) theairline has to provide free refreshments, restau-rant vouchers, and even hotel accommodationif the delay extends overnight, as well as theopportunity to make two telephone calls.

Whatever the route, if the delay is over 5hours, you are entitled to full

penalty-free reimbursement ofthe cost of your ticket.

4

LUGGAGE PROCEDURESOnly one piece of hand luggage per person

is allowed in the cabin. The dimensions cannotexceed 55cm x 20cm x 40 cm. Hand luggage

includes bags, suitcases, briefcases, laptop bags,baby care bags, camera bags and similar articles.Most airlines allow passengers to check in twopieces per paying customer. With Ryanair, checked-in baggage must not exceed 15 kg. Check out thespecific rules for your company before departure.A fee is charged for luggage exceeding the

permitted limit and for special items such asbicycles and surfboards. Compliance with

the regulations is good for your sa-fety as well as your wallet!3

53 ADVICE

1.Do not use luggagestraps, turnbuckles, or clamps

to secure your luggage2. Put identification tags on the inside and the outside of the luggagewith both your home and destinationaddresses. 3. Keep your medication and valua-

bles, such as cameras, jewellery,electronic equipment or

money, with you.

SUMMER 2009. A RECORD TO BEAT…

Between June and August 2008, ,815,894 passengers passedthrough Charleroi Airport, an increaseof 23%. We are looking forward to anew record, as a result of the combi-ned attraction of new destinations

with those that have provedsuccessful in the past.

An old tram.The New Bridge.

Bratislava main square

The National Theatre.A castle dominates the city.

The blue church.A communist monument.

MIRROR

33#IMPRESSIONS

ISABELLE BLANDIAUX

Honorary Consul for the Slovak Republic, Mario Annaert invites us todiscover a complex capital a long way from the clichés. #

BRATISLAVAfrom the other side of the

The only person to volunteer to emigrate toSlovakia in 2000, at the request of his em-ployer Dexia, Mario Annaert fell in live twiceover whilst he was there. With his wife andwith the country, “a hidden gem, 40% cove-red with forest”. At the end of his three yearcontract, the couple came back to Belgiumbut have continued to live between the twoEuropean countries. Now Honorary Consulfor the Slovak Republic, Mario Annaert runsa waste recycling company which is particu-larly active over there and is working on de-veloping economic links between Bratislavaand Brussels as a consultant. “It’s sixteenyears ago that Czechoslovakia was dividedinto two, but a lot of the people I meet don’tremember and get Slovakia and Sloveniamuddled up …” The psychological wall bet-

ween West and East remains. “People oftenthink that it’s a poor, disorganised country,that the population there is withdrawn…These pre-conceptions are totally wrong.The Slovaks quickly prove to be friendly andwelcoming, they are fiercely proud and atta-ched to values which have got somewhatlost over here, such as the family. Bratislavahas changed enormously. The capital has always played an important role, includingbetween the 16th and 19th centuries, whenit played host to the coronations of theKings of Hungary. It retains many Baroquefeatures from this era, mixed with the strictlyCommunist buildings (concrete on the outside, wood on the inside) and those of amodern city. It’s one of the things I likeabout it, this contrast between styles. And

the fact that the population there is veryyoung (average age 36) because that’swhere you study, find work and live it up inthe bars and clubs.”

ON FOOT, BY BIKE, TRAM, CAR OR BOATSituated 1 hour away (50 km) from Vienna(“the two closest capitals in Europe”), 2 hours from Budapest and 3-4 hours fromPrague, the “little big city” as the touristslogan calls it, proves to be “compact andeasy to visit in two or three days”. “A largepedestrianised area covers the points of historical interest. Several palaces (Archbi-shop’s Palace) are worth visiting, as is theCathedral of Saint Martin. The trams andbuses are very practical and there are noproblems with parking in this city of fewerthan 500,000 inhabitants. The castle whichdominates the city acts as a reference point,as does the Danube, which can also beused to get to the capitals of the neighbou-ring countries. The motorways are in goodcondition but certain sections are missingand traffic jams are frequent. If you want touse them, you have to buy a permit in theservice stations. Reckon on 5 euros for aweek; the fines are very harsh.”

If you’ve got more time, you can extendyour journey to take in the North and theTartas mountains. “Liptov is the loveliest region”, according to Mario Annaert. Youcan ski there in winter, walk there in summer,and the price of accommodation is verygood compared to resorts in France, Swit-zerland or Italy. “I’ve got a Belgian friendwho opened a hotel there, in the village ofMalatiny, near the town of Liptovsky Mikulas,the Relax Hôtel Sojka (www.sojka.eu ).” A three star hotel offering peace and quiet,

The average age of the population of Bratislava is very young.

A city on a human scale with lots of pedestrians.Bizarre, life-size statues

liven up the city.

A building from the Communist era.

the warmth of wooden chalets and a newspa for recharging your batteries.

WINE ROUTE Little known, “quality at a good price”, youcan discover Slovakian wines along the wineroad starting from Bratislava. “You start inthe villages of Pezinok then Modra, stoppingfor a visit to Cerveny Kamen (the Red StoneCastle). It’s bit more complicated to commu-nicate outside of the capital, where theydon’t speak either English or German.”These white, red or sparkling nectars canalso be enjoyed around good tables in Bratislava. “My favourite is the Hôtel Matysak (near the Presidential Palace)(www.hotelmatysak.sk). The owner is a winegrower. He has an enormous cellar and avery high quality Slovakian restaurant. Thevalue for money makes it worth a detour.”

SLOVAKIAN FOODWhat local food shouldn’t you miss? “Lotsof meat and vegetables. A typical dish,bryndzové halusky, consists of a sort ofgnocchi made with potatoes, water, flour andsheep’s cheese, with grilled bacon pieces.Two soups are popular: drzkova with tripeand the Christmas kapustnica with cabbageand smoked sausage. Not forgetting the fruitbrandies (Slivovica: made from plums), whether official or not. Sold in shops (40-45°) or distilled at home (55-65°). Youcan get a bottle out at any time of the day!”

Another address to remember, the SlovenskaKoliba restaurant, on the esplanade oppositethe National Theatre (Hviezdoslavovo Na-mestie). “They serve excellent quality Slovakmeals. Expect to pay about 30 euros per per-son, plus 15 euros for a good bottle of wine.”On the same square, Le Monde offers

35#IMPRESSIONS

sophisticated French cuisine. And 50 metresfrom there, a really nice Irish pub, The Dubli-ner, livens up in the evening. Also a blockaway from this square (Panska road), DeZwan (the swan) is an old Belgian café wherethey drink draught beers, eat mussels andchips, carbonade and steaks. A rallying pointfor ex-pats. Bratislava is obviously a bit moreexpensive than the rest of the country, but inthe little restaurants you can get away with10 to 15 euros inclusive. For lunch, I wouldrecommend Prasna Basta (www.prasna-basta.sk, Zámočnícka 11), which is housed ina tower and frequented by locals.”

For somewhere to stay, “the luxury hotels,namely the Danube, the Devin and the Carl-ton, are on the edge of the river. A more de-mocratic alternative is to stay at the Marina(www.botelmarina.sk), which is on a boat.”

FOLKLOREFolk music and dancing play a central role in traditional Slovakian culture. “You find several famous groups in Bratislava (Sluk),made up of students from the university, ofvirtually professional standard. A group fromLiege, Li’Tchena, is very highly thought of inSlovakia and has an impressive collection ofcostumes. A folk festival is held in July inVychodna, 300 km from the capital.” Notealso, The summer of culture (Kulturne Leto)in Bratislava, namely 200 open-air concerts(www.bkis.sk).

INFO www.slovakia.travel

FLIES TO BRATISLAVAON TUESDAY, THURSDAY & SATURDAY

charleroi THE “BOIS

DU CAZIER”

37#WALLONIA

Industrial tourism has become increasingly popular in recent years,particularly in Europe. In France, no fewer than 1,400 heritage mu-seums or industrial sites draw in 20 million visitors every year. Everysector is represented, including industry, mines, and even spectacularinfrastructures like the Millau viaduct, the highest road bridge in theworld, which was officially opened in December 2004.#

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

The Museum, dedicated to coal, steel andglass, is divided into different sites. Themost moving is the 8th August area, a centredevoted to the tragedy, safety at work, and migration. On the upper floor, films, photographs, testimonies and technical explanations tell the story, hour by hour andday by day, of the disaster and the rescueoperations. On the ground floor, a place of remembrance pays homage to the 262victims of the accident.

The Bois du Cazier does not only focus onthe past and the tragedy; in the middle of the Walloon chain of slagheaps, a woodeddomain of 25 hectares, laid out as semi-natural parks, makes it possible to explore aspecific biotope. Footpaths accessible to the public have been laid out through thethree slagheaps, allowing people to relax and discover a surprisingly rural aspect ofthe past of the “Pays Noir”.

The Borinage region is part of the Europeancoal deposit that stretches from Wales tothe Germany. For more than a century, coalmines fuelled the industrial revolution thatturned Belgium into an industrial giant. Thefirst traces of coal extraction can be found inthe 13th century but coal mining in this areapeaked at the beginning of the last century.

After the Second World War, numerous Italian immigrant workers settled in andaround Charleroi to work in mines, hopingfor a better life. The Bois du Cazier, one ofthe most spectacular coal mines to visit, liesjust south of Charleroi. This place is foreverengraved on the Belgian national memorybecause in 1956 a fire killed 262 workers,mostly of Italian origin.

This site, with its rich and poignant history,has been completely rehabilitated thanks tothe European Union and the Walloon region.

38#WALLONIA

Who are these new migrants? What are theylooking for? Another aspect of our work isfocusing on industrial accidents. What happens in our factories today? The Ghislen-ghien disaster that occurred a few years ago shows that occupational accidents areunfortunately still a reality.”

Who is your audience? “It is becomingmore diversified. In the early years, therewere many visitors who were directly or indirectly affected by the tragedy and the general history of the miners, their sons, andthe descendants of Italian immigration. Thereis also an audience of elderly people whowitnessed that era. The workshop that wehold in schools brings in many young people.We’re also starting to become known inFrance and Holland, where this form of tourism is booming; our site is gradually becoming a step on the road to Bruges andGhent. We have also turned the surroundingslagheaps into places for family walks for thelocals and people interested in the flora andfauna they come across. Discovery walksare held with “guides”. Despite some sadand tragic memories, people from here areproud of this place – proud of what theyhave been building and proud of the changesthey have achieved.” #

THE “BOIS DU CAZIER” | 6001 MarcinelleTel. 071 88 08 56 | www.leboisducazier.be |[email protected] | Closed on Mondays. Adults: 6 € | Under 18s and students 4.5 € | Admission free for the under 6s. The site has acafé, a gastronomic restaurant and a picnic area.

THE BOIS DU CASIER IS MANAGED BY BELGIAN HISTORIAN JEAN-LOUIS DELAETCan you summarize the rebirth of theBois du Casier? “After its closure in1967, the site of the Bois du Casier was neglected and vandalized. In the early 80’s,voices were being raised across Europe, cal-ling for respect for cultural heritage industry.This heritage was an identity and a part of theculture of many people. People began to say,“This is my story, I love it, I am proud and Iwant us to respect it.” There was suffering,but also pride in this place. This movementcaught the attention of the authorities. Budgets have been proposed to safeguardthis place of memory, and then to direct it towards tourism. The Museum of Glass andthe Museum of Industry have been movedhere to make various aspects of our industrialhistory coexist within the same space. Com-pletely renovated, the site was inauguratedon the 50th anniversary of the tragedy.”

The museum is presented as aplace of memory. “Yes. One of our priorities is honouring the memory of thedead workers. In this regard, we are holdingcourses and workshops to make youngpeople aware of issues going beyond theaccident itself. Behind this tragedy – wheremore than a dozen nationalities were found,alongside a Flemish minority – lies the issueof migration. Why do people leave theirown countries? This is a tourism of memory, but also a tourism of awakening.

Sixty years ago, it was the Greeks, Italiansand Spaniards who had to leave their coun-tries. Today, migrants come from elsewhere.

THINGS TO SEE

AND DOin charleroi

CONTACTCHARLEROI REGION TOURIST OFFIC20, Place Charles II6000 CharleroiTel. +32 71 86 14 [email protected]

GUIDED WALKSCHATEAU AND ARBORETUM OF MONCEAU-SUR-SAMBREA rare chance to visit the interior of the Monceau Chateau. This stately home da-ting from the 17th and 18thcenturies owes its noble credentials to the visit of LouisXIV. The arboretum, in thegrounds of the Chateau, is anecological circuit showing theremarkable essence of our regions. Meet on Saturdays 11July and 29 August at 2.30 pm |Visit led by a tourist guide and a nature guide | Wednesdays at 2 pm and Sundays at 10 am, a nature guide accompanies youon a visit to the arboretum.

40#WALLONIA

EXHIBITION “BULLES JAZZ BLUES” The cartoon writers of Wallonia and Brussels are likejazz: inventive, curious, passionate, attracting derisionand with a strong taste for parties or the night and itsghosts. A reflection of society, the cartoon has latchedon to jazz. Telling the lives of its great soloists or Dinant’s most famous inhabitant, Sax himself, it hascombined swing and blues at all times of the day andnight. Here, the story is purely biographical and transforms a famous trumpeter into a cartoon hero, arole model … there is jazz and its universe which are thevery subject of the cartoon… Then again, it’s musicfrom New Orleans, New York or the cellars of Saint-Germain-des-Prés which depict an atmosphere and alook. Made up of some sixty frames, 4 panels and astand, this magnificent exhibition will take place in thedeparture terminal at Brussels South Charleroi Airportto the delight of numerous tourists and cartoon lovers.“Bulles Jazz Blues” from 1 July to 19 August

GUIDED WALKSGOING UP THE SLAG HEAPSThe habitats provided by these historical summits, fromthe driest to the wettest, attract unique flora and fauna.The slag heaps also offer exceptional viewpoints overthe town and the fifty or so summits scattered around it.Meet: Sunday 19 July at 2 pm on the Les Hiercheuses slagheap in Marcinelle | Sunday 2 August at 10 am at the Martinet slag heaps in Roux | Sunday 9 August at 10 am atthe Bayemont and Saint-Charles slag heaps in Marchienne |Sunday 6 September at 10 am at the Trou Barbeau slag heapin Monceau | Sunday 26 July and Saturday 29 August, from 9 am, all-day rambles on the Marcinelle slag heaps | Saturday 12 September, from 9 am, a day on four of the mosttypical slap heaps in the area.

SOLVAY SETTLING TANKSAn extraordinary landscape to discover over thecourse of a day. Sunday 23 August, from 10 am, with abarbecue on site.

TRADITIONALMARCHESTHE ENTRE-SAMBRE-ET-MEUSE REGION The Entre-Sambre-et-Meuse region is famous forits numerous religious, secular and militarymarches. Every year, fromMay to October, militaryescorts are recreated in most villages, with mar-chers in period costumeaccompanying the proces-sion to the sound of fifesand drums, following aroute laid down by tradition.

THE MADELEINE TOURThe famous MadeleineTour, one of the strangestfolk traditions in the Sambre, takes place onthe Sunday nearest to 22 July. It stands out from other processionsbecause of the extraordi-nary variety of uniformsworn by the 2000 or sosoldiers on parade. It isspecially famous for itsSunday parade, a 25 kmroute, the open-air massand the presentation ofmedals to the marchers.

Strolls around LA ROCHELLE

43#PLACES TO BE

In addition to the majestic 14th and 15th century towers dominatingthe port, the seaside town of La Rochelle has delightful sculptedstone facades and fine arcaded streets with lively markets. Everysummer, this stronghold on the Atlantic Coast sways to the rhythmsof the La Rochelle Francofolies festival, and both the town itself andthe nearby islands of Ré and Oléron have delightful hotels with restaurants not to be missed. Explore these addresses with a man oftaste, Emmanuel Batiot, the owner of L’assiette on the Ile d’Oléron. #

NEAR LA ROCHELLEILE DE RÉ La Rochelle and Ré are connected by a 3.3 kmbridge. This rather smart island is known for itscycle tracks. CHARMING HOTEL | LA MAISON DOUCE|25, Rue Mérindot | 17410 St Martin de Ré |www.maisondouce.fr

ILE D’OLÉRONThe island is connected to the mainland by a 3 km bridge. 40 minutes from La Rochelle byroad or 30 minutes by sea.RESTAURANT | L’ASSIETTE17, Rue Lafayette | 17480 Le Château d’Oléron |www.lassiettecompagnie.com | Fresh producedaily with menu based on market availability andthe latest fishing catch. Grilled fish, salads…CHARMING HOTEL | LES JARDINS D’ALIÉNOR | Le Château d’Oléron | www.lesjardinsdalienor.com | Delightful hoteland restaurant. Gastronomic restaurant and delightful rooms.

LA ROCHELLECAVE À VIN | OWNED by Jean Marie Floirat,former advisor to the famous gastronomic restaurant La Tour d’Argent in Paris, on the mar-ketplace. 2, Bis Rue Thiers | 17000 La Rochelle+33 (0)5 49 41 09 07 | For lovers of fine wines WINEBAR | LA GUIGNETTE | 8, Rue Saint Nicolas | 17000 La Rochelle | Renowned for itsatmosphere and its happy hoursLES FRANCOFOLIESA mad atmosphere is created when around ahundred singers and musicians from France,Belgium, Africa, Canada and the West Indiesentertain nonstop by the famous medieval towers | 10th to 15th July 2009 | 6, Rue de laDésirée | BP 53018 | 17030 La Rochelle Cedex1+33 (0)5 46 28 28 28 | www.francofolies.frTHINGS TO DO The (very pleasant) market in the history centreevery Wednesday and Saturday | The localcouncil provides free bike hire at the historicport against presentation of an identity card.

FLIES TO LA ROCHELLE ON MONDAY & FRIDAY

44#TRAVELLING WITH

NICOLAS BOGAERTS

Manchester, the principal city in the North West of England, has gonefrom being an industrial jewel to a factory of fantasy and colour. For more than two decades, between the end of the 70s and the endof the last century, the city shed an intriguing light on the destiny ofavant-garde music: punk rock, pop, house and electronic music. #

ManchesterNON-STOP

FUNWandering around the streets of Manchesteris to be confronted with the various eraswhich have pained or enlivened this citysince the end of the industrial revolution: the second world war and its bombings, theindustrial crisis of the 70s, the IRA bombingright in the heart of the city’s commercialdistrict, Market Street, in 1996. These haveleft deep scars in the city’s urban landscape,which alternates today between flamboyantVictorian buildings, towers of glass, steeland concrete, and imposing industrial buildings, factories and depots.

THE CENTRE AND THE NORTHERN QUARTERFor shopping lovers, Manchester has aplethora of options to choose from: a shop-ping centre to suit all pockets, vintage andsecond-hand boutiques, local creative artists,designer labels. From Market Street, in thecity centre district, you can access several

shopping centres. Set out over three floors,the giant Arndale centre is an American-style giant, whilst you can sniff out somebargains at Primpark, (Calvin Klein, Boss,Burberry, Hillfiger, all at knock-downprices…) Topping off the triangle formedaround the city centre, John Lewis and Harvey Nichols offer the epitome of “posh”:Paul Smith, Armani, Balenciaga… Don’tlook for the prices, they’re not marked. Manchester’s Northern Quarter is brimmingwith vintage stores, second-hand shops andthe shops of creative artists. This area, withits double backbone made up of Tib Streetand Oldham Street, is one of the city’s nervecentres, lively both by day and by night. Alocal institution, Affleck's Palace (44 ChurchStreet) offers four floors of alternative boutiques, a Babylon of kitsch, vintage andoriginality. A few metres further on you’ll findRags & Bitches (60 Tib Street), unmissablewhen it comes to second hand. Those who

46#TRAVELLING WITH

FLIES TO MANCHESTER ON MONDAY, THURSDAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY

can’t stand the Fred Perry look of Liam Gal-lagher (Oasis), should go to Oi Polloi (70, TibStreet) or opt for the more original creationsof White Label Clothing (53, Church Street).

For a light snack or simply a drink, Odd (30-32 Thomas Street) and its strangeeclectic mix, offers a decor where you floatsomewhere between Morocco, Wonderlandand rockabilly. More sensible but not to bemissed at any cost, the Soup Kitchen (31-33 Spear Street) dishes up original and succulent soups, served at large, communaltables, where people look at laptop screensor at the historical covers of The Face magazine. Having got some energy back,you’ll be well-placed to go and stock up ondisks, vinyl and t-shirts in the three ultimatebenchmarks of independent music sellers:Piccadilly Records (53 Oldham St), Vinyl Exchange (18 Oldham St) and Sifters Records (177 Fog Lane).

FROM SALFORD TO THE GAY DIS-TRICT, ALL THROUGH THE NIGHTFrom Piccadilly Gardens, the number 33 buscrosses the city and its canals and climbsup towards Salford, from where you can admire a poignant view of the roofs of theDirty Old Town sung about by Ewan McColl.A short walk to the Salford Lads Club, immortalised on a photo from the Smiths’ ultimate album, The Queen is Dead, will putyou straight back into the legend of one ofthe most influential groups of the 80s.Going back down towards the centre ofManchester, you will be passing through amusical patchwork: the districts marked byDeansgate to the west and Wilworth to thesouth, contain high spots such as theBoardwalk (the former rehearsal room ofJoy Division, Happy Mondays and the Char-latans), all that remains of which today is acommemorative plaque; the old Hacienda(now a luxury apartment complex); the stunning Hilton hotel, housed in the breath-taking tower from where the regional stationGranada TV used to broadcast, where Tony

Wilson played host to the Sex Pistols andthe avant-garde of the punk and new wavemovements. To the doors of China Townand the gay district, which comes alive inthe last hours of the day, you are looking ata city constantly reinventing itself, betweencurrent geniuses and past splendours. In the middle of this hectic tour, we need totake a step back in time: to Mr Thomas’sChop House (52, Cross Street), an authentic,old Victorian pub packed with a colourfulcrowd of thirty somethings, students andbusiness men, where they serve traditionalEnglish food from a time when fat wasn’t something banned from the menu. SucculentFish and Chips, finger-licking Pork Vindaloo.

It’s time to make the most of the last rays ofsunlight, on one of the terraces which border the canal in the heart of the gay district (Canal Street), before plunging intothe darkness. We could have a fine time livingin the night sung Ian Curtis (Joy Division).Manchester has made this adage its own.It’s impossible here to name all the pubswhich attracted our attention, or the clubswhich have taken over from the Hacienda.The Northern Quarter, Withworth, OxfordRoad and gay districts are bursting withpossibilities. To get warm, the Dry Bar(28-30 Oldham Street) or A Place CalledCommon (39-41 Edge Street) will do thejob, whilst the Mint Lounge (46 OldhamStreet) carries on the tradition of Goodmusic good vibes and great social.On Oxford Road, lose yourself in the sophisticated atmosphere of the Attic (50 New Wakefield Street) and the vibratinggroove of the Music Box (65 Oxford Road)where a certain Mr Scruff still rules.

Welcome to Manchester, the city that reinvents itself.

48#CITY BREAK

BY MISHKA TIGHILPHOTOS BY RENAUD CALLEBAUT

Prague has surprises in store, hidden away behind the tourist cityeveryone thinks they know. Far from the usual sites, the dissidentheart of the city is tucked away in its alleyways. #

PRAGUEA CULT CITY

Museum Kampa

Hotel Josef Dancing house alias Ginger and Fred

Galerie Langhans

Grand Café Orient Café Louvre

51#CITY BREAK

It was Klaus, a young German painter livingin Prague, who gave the keys to the city at achance encounter over a beer. “Be careful!Prague isn’t what it seems. It’s worth lookingfurther. It has a lot to offer to the discerningtraveller - but to find it, you have to go behind the scenes and look beyond the ste-reotype. This city is still a European culturalcrossroads. That’s normal – it’s the capital ofa country which, not so long ago, chose aplaywright to be its president. Can you thinkof many others? That’s really something!”

It’s true that at first sight one could be mis-taken. There are two misconceptions to beavoided. First of all, Prague’s chocolate-boxprettiness seems to be engraved in stone.Its photogenic nature has made it a favouritelocation setting for Hollywood vampire films.And the guided tour runs the gamut of classical statues, baroque domes, churchspires, and gothic buildings. It would be apity to stop short there, for the city on theVltava has a present just as interesting asits past. The other misinterpretation wouldconsist of only taking contemporary contri-butions into account, between the ZlatyAndel shopping centre by Jean Nouvel andthe famous Dancing House, alias Ginger &Fred, by Frank O. Gehry and Vlado Milunic -buildings that can be seen as signs of aCzech republic in the throes of globalisation.

To paraphrase the great Czech writer Kun-dera, one could say that “The true Prague is

elsewhere”. In the manner of Hasek’s novel“The Good Soldier Svejk”, a seminal apolo-gia for disobedience, the key to understan-ding the city is indisputably “resistance” -political resistance, as developed during theSoviet period, or economic resistance,which is now forcing people to query the eraof mass consumption they have seamlesslymoved into. During any period of domina-tion, the people of Prague always fall backon a safe value - culture. This is the cementof the city.

HOT CAFÉSIdeally, a tour of the teashops should startwith the Grand Café Orient. A tangible signof its close proximity to culture, the buildinghousing this establishment is also home tothe Museum of Cubism. The entire décor ofthis venue, a favourite with the people ofPrague, is by the Rondo-Cubist architect,Joseph Gocar. The quirky decorative linesof this teashop are an architectural expres-sion of the daring of the Cubist painters.Next on the list should be the Louvre café.Once frequented by Franz Kafka and AlbertEinstein, this has been the ideal place forbrowsing the newspapers since 1902. Itsvery Art Nouveau decor gives it a light goodtaste matched by its delicious café viennois.Here again, culture is not far away, for this ishome to the Café Galerie, a space dedica-ted to contemporary art, where trendyyoung people come for wifi. But the abso-lute must is without a doubt the legendary

FLIES TO PRAGUE DAILY

52#CITY BREAK

Café Slavia

Villa Muller

Villa Muller

Café Slavia. Its wood-panelled walls and imposing marble make this the favouritehaunt of students from the FAMU filmschool, as well as performers from the Na-tional Theatre. Dominated by “The AbsintheDrinker”, a painting depicting the effect ofthe green fairy on a doomed artist, the Slavia has unbeatable views of the Vltava,to be enjoyed over a cup of hot chocolate.

More “underground”, literary cafés go rightto the heart of the mystery. Try the CaféRybka, the Velryba, or the Rebezova, andyou’ll find an unbeatable atmosphere. Thesetiny venues are lined with books of everykind, from Franz Kafka to life-style guides,via Heidegger. You will be drawn into theirfriendly atmosphere – the limited number ofseats may mean sharing a small table with atotal stranger. #

Grand Café Orient | Ovocny 19, 1 |Tel. 224 224 240 | www.grandcafeorient.czCafé Louvre | Narodni 22, 1 | Tel. 224 930 949 | www.cafelouvre.czCafé Slavia | Smetanovo Nabrezi 2, 1 | Tel. 224 218 493 | www.cafeslavia.czLucerna | Vodickova 36, 1 | Tel. 224 217 108.

54#wine

MADE IN ITALY

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

CASTELLO DI AMA IN CHIANTIThe rebirth of one of the best Chianti producers, Castello di Ama, located in thecommune of Gaiole in Chianti, started in1972 as a result of the love of wine of fourfamilies from Rome. They bought what wasat the time a ruin, invested in a new wineryand hired Marco Pallanti, a young winemakerwho was one of the few who believed in thepotential of Chianti wines.

He devoted his life to this vineyard where hefound love, marrying Lorenza Sebasti, adaughter of one of the families who hadbought the property. Twenty years later, the couple had made wine the mainstay of the local economy. Marco is said to have replaced every vine and planted thesurrounding hills with grape varieties thathave yielded fantastic results, crafting anumber of outstanding Chianti Classicos including one of the first ever to earn 95points on the Wine Spectator’s 100 Pointscale. In 2003, Marco was crowned “Oenologist of the Year” by Vini d’Italia, pu-blished by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food.

In 1999, the husband-and-wife team startedthe Castello di Ama for ContemporaryArt project. Lorenza points out the link between art and wine: “We want our wineto tell this story, now and in the future, toanyone who has ears to hear, as accuratelyas any work of art. Art is our means of fertilising our local soil to keep it beautifuland culturally rich.” Every year they com-mission an artist to come to the borgo andcreate a work which, once finished, will remain on the wine estate for ever. Thepiece must integrate with the history, thelandscape and the architecture of the villaand the wine cellar, blending the modernand historic. The first artist to accept theirinvitation was Michelangelo Pistoletto.Since then, Daniel Buren, Giulio Paolini,Kendell Geers, Anish Kapoor, Chen Zhen,and Carlos Garaicoa have made their markon the magnificent property.

ALLEGRINI IN VALPOLICELLAThe Valpolicella area is in the Veneto Region,to the north west of the city of Verona. The area has been closely linked with winegrowing and wine since ancient times,as is confirmed by the etymology of itsname, “val polis cellae”, which means “thevalley of many wine cellars”.

The Allegrini Estate has been located in Fumane di Valpolicella since the 16th century. Giovanni Allegrini, the head of thelatest generation, is seen as the ultimate expert in the oenological history of this region. He has made an essential contribu-tion to promoting the idea of the “cru”, a vineyard dedicated to the production ofgrapes for a particular wine, because of itsimportance and special characteristics.“Crus” worthy of mention are La Grola andPalazzo della Torre, now ambassadors ofthe Allegrini touch all over the world.

The company is now run by Marilisa andFranco, who are developing the winegrowingheritage in an original and innovative manner.The properties of the Allegrini family includesome 70 hectares, which are divided amongthe townships of Fumane, Sant'Ambrogioand San Pietro In Cariano, and are all situatedon the slopes of the Valpolicella Classicaarea, a joy to drive through.

PRACTICAL INFORMATIONCASTELLO DI AMA. GAIOLE IN CHIANTI | www.castellodiama.com | Tel. +39 (0)57 7746031| Visit by appointment only | The Castello Di Ama is less than 2 hours from Pisa airport by car.GRICOLA ALLEGRINI. FUMANE DI VALPOLICELLA | www.allegrini.it | Tel. +39 (0)45 6832011 | By appointment | The vinyard is less than 2 hours from Bergamo airport by carIN BELGIUM | you can find and order theirwines from Licata Vini in Hasselt on | www.licatavini.com

FLIES TO ITALY

Rimowa suitcase, from the SalsaDeluxe collection. Indestructiblepolycarbonate shell and movableinternal divider to protectclothes against creasing, evenwhen the case is half empty.Multiwheel model. 74.5 x 49.5 x 27.5 cm. 459 euros. Info: www.rimowa.com

Super Aqua Masque fromGuerlain. Easy to carry aroundin their individual sachets,these six face masks provideas many active moisturisersand regenerative ingredientsas 30 ml of the serum from thesame range. 100.97 euros.

The padlock as the symbolof eternal love. At Dodo, you can believe it with thispendent and chain in silverand rose gold. 340 euros. Info: 00800 14 03 20 02.

Blu Mediterraneo Experience Set from Acqua di Parma.Arancia di Capri, Fico d’Amalfi and Mirto di Panarea: 30 ml of each of these sophisticated fragrances evocative of Italy, contained in a sleek, smart box. An invitation to travel. 64 euros. Info: +32 (0)2 642 26 27.

56#trends

NOMADS

Until 31 December 2009, Maison Delvaux is offering the Leathers & Letters collection,comprising items for writing: from the leather notebook cover (A6, A5 and A4) to thepocket or office note pad - round or D-shaped - to the little writing box, the squaresketchbook, envelopes and leather pencil cases. From 11 to 22 euros for the pads andnotebooks, from 50 to 220 euros for leather items. Info: +32 (0)2 738 00 40.

Refined case, graphic andstructured dial, for a smart andsleek man’s watch. Hugo BossBlack, model HB-244. 449 euros.Info: +32 (0)2 357 11 11.

Hydrating, anti-shine aftershave, Allure Homme EditionBlanche, from Chanel. Dailyskin-care for men’s skin: light,fresh and non-greasy. Preventsshine and makes skin look radiant. 43.73 euros for 100 ml.

Silk cotton scarf in Mer du Nord orange.

80 euros. Info: +32 (0)2 743 01 43.

Prada metal sunglasses (Ref. SPS501 1BC-3M1),double bridge with classic drop-shaped lenses and etched decoration on the bridge and arms.Arms made of nylon in opaque colours, shades of blue, brown and khaki. 186 euros.

Travel in style this summer with the Damier Graphite Roadster bag

from Louis Vuitton. 900 euros. Info: www.louisvuitton.com

or +32 (0)2 289 28 28.

HIGHTECH

UNDERWATER MUSICThis underwater MP3 player from Speedo (capacity:250 files) means that you don’t have to lose the beatwhilst swimming, surfing, snorkelling, in the bath orunder the shower! Floats and is waterproof to a depth of 3 m. Guaranteed 1 year. Recommended retail price:99 euros. Info: +32 (0)14 67 22 20.

58#travel hype

COMPACTSLR AND VIDEOThe new Canon EOS 500D camera, a 15.1 megapixeldigital SLR, offers full HD (High Definition) video capability built in to a light, compact SLR. For takingshots when the light is virtually non-existent, it has a wide sensitivity range going as high as 3200 ISO. Recommended retail price of 18-55 mm kit: 999 euros.MADE

TO MEASUREThe Philips Arcitec combinesan even, 360° pivoting shavewith triple track heads, to giveyou a supersoft shave. Fromde 179.99 euros.

NEW PHOTOPHONEThe Viewty Smart (LG-GC900) from LG Electronicsis the second, improved version of this photo phonewhich enables you not only torecord video, listen to musicand share images, but also totake quality photos thanks toits Intelligent Shot automaticsetting mode and 8 megapixelcamera, capable of taking pictures at up to 1600 ISO, allwith a high-resolution, WVGAtouch-screen. Recommendedretail price: 499 euros.

BLUETOOTH SPEAKERThe MS500 outdoor wireless speaker from Sony Ericsson enables you to share the music you’ve downloa-ded onto your mobile phone with everyone. Small, lightand portable, with a strap and clip-on hook. Bluetooth™technology enables the phone to be used as a remotecontrol for going from one track to another, adjusting the volume, etc. Recommended retail price: 49 euros.

61#hotspot

BERGERAC LOCAL PRODUCE

The Carul Cu Bere (which translates as“beer wagon”) is one of Bucarest’s most fa-mous brasseries. Dating back to 1879, thisis one of the few neogothic buildings in Bu-carest, impressive for its murals, its waxedwoodwork, its windows, and its high cei-lings. Around 1900, this was the meetingplace of the literary circles of the city. This isa relaxed, cosmopolitan venue, where youcan stop for a simple meal or just have abeer. Carul Cu Bere | 5, Stavropoleos Strada |+40 21 313 75 60 | www.carucubere.ro

If you’re a cheese-lover, you’ll enjoy Péri-gord’s oldest cheese in this genuine Frenchabbey, the Trappe d’Echourgnac. Nestling inthe heart of the Forêt de la Double, theabbey, which is still home to nuns, has ashop selling all the produce made by theSisters - cheeses, jams, and fruit jellies. Typically French. Abbaye Notre Dame deBonne Espérance | Fromagerie de la Trappe |Biscaye | 24410 Echourgnac | +33 (0)5 53 8082 50 | www.abbaye-echourgnac.org

A COMPLETE REST

The 17th century La Chartreuse du Bignacis surrounded by 12 hectares of parklandwith centuries-old box-trees, copses, or-chard and lawns. The perfect place for en-joying a quiet rest while enjoying the regionin between lazing in the pool. And ofcourse, on the culinary side, the specialityis duck. La Chartreuse du Bignac | Le Bignac |24520 Saint-Nexans | +33 (05) 53 22 12 80www.abignac.com

BUCAREST LONG LIVE MUSIC!

The 19th biennial “George Enescu Interna-tional Festival and Competition” is beingheld in Bucarest from 30th August to 26th

September. The best international orches-tras and ensembles will be directed by thegreatest conductors. Opening concert on30th August at 19.00 with George Enescu’sOedipus, performed by the orchestra andchoir of the Bucarest National Opera, underthe direction of French conductor NicolasJoël. Bucarest National Opera | 70-72 MihailKogalniceanu Boulevard | sect. 5 | Bucarest |+40 21 314 69 80

BRASSERIE

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BRUGES WINE AND MUSIC

7 young artists have been selected for theYoung Belgian Painters Award; they areNico Dockx, Jeroen Hollander, Robert Kot(notre photo), Lara Mennes, CarolinePekle, Els Vermang / LAb[au] and LéonVranken. Their main concerns are socialand urban, relating to memories of placesand people through archive, taking in land-scapes, and touching on the fragility ofthings. Until 13/09 | Palais de Beaux-Arts de Bruxelles | 23, Rue Ravenstein | +32 (0)2 507 82 00 | www.bozar.be

This wine bar has more than 90 wines. FromPommerol classics to fresh Chablis via NewWorld crus from Chile, South Africa, California - they can all be bought by theglass. And every Sunday evening, from20.00 to 22.30, there’s the cherry on thecake – a free blues or jazz concert! Yeah! EstBar à Vins | 7, Braambergstraat | 8000 Bruges |+32 (0)50 33 38 39 | www.wijnbarest.be

BEAUFORT

From Bruges, pop across to the Belgiancoast, only 15 km away, where you’ll find awhole phenomenon, unique of its kind, theBeaufort Festival, which spreads to take inthe whole coast from the French border tothe edge of the Netherlands. Works byknown or emerging contemporary artistsare displayed like buoys on the beaches,the dykes, in the sand dunes, or inland. Amuseum more than 60 kilometres long …to be visited with sand between your toes!Beaufort 03 | www.beaufort03.be

BRUSSELS THIS REALLY IS A MUSEUM!

A new museum opened in Brussels at thebeginning of June – the Musée Magritte.The 2500 m2 of exhibition space spreadover the 5 floors of this building on thePlace Royale are entirely dedicated to thework of this great Belgian painter (1898-1967), covering every period of his life.More than 200 works have been broughttogether here. Musée Magritte | Place Royale1000 Brussels (entrance at 3, Rue de la Régence) | +32 (0)2 508 32 11 | www.musee-magritte-museum.be

YOUNG BELGIANPAINTERS AWARD

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CASA-BLANCA NOT TO BE MISSED

The Hotel Suisse, on the famous Cornicheboulevard overlooking the ocean, has modestly-priced accommodation in a quietlocation close to the centre. Modern comfort, excellent service and, last but notleast, a patio that’s a haven of peace,tucked away in the heart of the tall building.Hôtel Suisse | 1, Boulevard de la Corniche |+212 22 39 60 62/3

Standing, pharaonic, by the sea, Casa-blanca’s Hassan II Mosque, with its 200metre minaret and its 20,000m2 space is well worth a visit. It was built between1980 and 1989 and officially opened in1993, and it took 10,000 craftsmen tomake the Murano glass chandeliers and chiselled plasterwork walls, to work themarble, the granite, the onyx, the cedar-wood, the stucco and the ceramic inlay…And the cost of all this? Around 500,000Euros. Hassan II Mosque | on the Corniche |Casablanca | www.mosqueehassan2.com

SOPHISTICATED

A patio in front of an ancient Moroccan villafull of charm. People come to the Al-MouniaRestaurant as much for its luxurious settingas for the sophistication and flavours of the local cuisine. Lamb or chicken tajines,kebabs, coucous, pastille, kefta … And allthese dishes can be enjoyed with a widechoice of cru wines. Al-Mounia | 95, Rue duPrince-Moulay-Abdellah | +212 22 22 26 69

DELICACIES

At the heart of Casablanca’s Habous district, the new medina, Pâtisserie Bennishas been keeping the Moroccan culinarytradition alive since the 1930s. Gazelle orsesame horns, coconut or almond-basedcakes, stuffed dates, honey cakes… Gourmets and the curious will be spoilt forchoice in this Ali Baba’s Cave, equally appreciated for its antique décor. PâtisserieBennis Habous | 2, Rue Fkih El Gabbas | Quartier Habous | +212 22 30 30 25 | www.bennishabous.com

DEMOCRATIC

FLY TO CASABLANCA

FAROCHARMING POUSADA

The Palácio de Estoi is a magnificent Pousada, commissioned at the end of the19th century by the Vicomte de Estoi, JoséFrancisco da Silva, but only officially openedin May 1909. In 1987, Faro Council boughtthe palace and refurbished the main buildingas well as the tea pavilion and the Versailles-style gardens. Today the Pousada is a hotelwith spacious rooms and an excellent restau-rant serving local fish and seafood dishes.Pousada Palácio de Estoi | Rua São José, Estoi |8005-465 Faro | +351 289 990 150 | [email protected]

DANCING ON THE BEACH

With its feet in the water, facing Faro beach,the Sui Generis is a new “three in one”concept of restaurant, café, and disco-bar.Eat Mediterranean cuisine, subtly garnishedwith world flavours. Once the desert courseis finished, the tables are removed, and therestaurant becomes a dance floor. Real holidays! Sui Generis | 6, Avenida Nascente | Praia de Faro | 8005-520 Faro | +351 289 818 996 | [email protected]

GLASGOWSCIENCE FOR EVERYONE

You can’t go to Glasgow without visitingthe Glasgow Science Centre. Currentand future health, science and technologyissues are dealt with here, in an entertai-ning, attractive manner, with interactive exhibitions, planetarium, IMAX screen andmore, to entertain adults and children alike.Glasgow Science Centre | 50, Pacific Quay |Glasgow G51 1EA | 0871 540 1000 | www.glasgowsciencecentre.org

FINE FOOD

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Last year, the Ubiquitous Chip, tuckedaway down a side street in Glasgow’s dynamic, cosmopolitan West End, wasawarded the title of Best City Restaurant inScotland. Produce is carefully selected toprepare an original and traditional take onScottish cuisine. The wine list is said to beone of Great Britain’s top ten in terms ofvalue for money. And the plant-filled courtyard, with its glazed ceiling and mezzanine, makes this a delightful setting.The Ubiquitous Chip Restaurant | 12, AshtonLane | Glasgow | 0141 334 5007 | www.ubiquitouschip.co.uk

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RIGACOSY

At the heart of the old city, the Vecriga Hotel(the name, literally translated, means OldRiga), is in a 15th century building which hasbeen rebuilt several times (the last time wasin 1768). This delightful hotel has 14 cosyrooms with a romantic atmosphere. And ingood weather, you can relax in peace andquiet in the inner courtyard. Boutique Hotel Vecriga | Gleznotaju 12/14 | Riga | +371 6 721 6524, +371 6 721 60 37 | www.vecriga.lv

NIGHT FEVER

Riga is full of lively places for a drink or todance until dawn at the weekend. PulkvedimNeviens Neraksta (its name, translated lite-rally, means “No One writes to the Colonel”,a reference to the Gabriel Garcia Marqueznovel) is a huge, trendy pub-club with subduedlighting, a circular bar, and the atmosphere of an abandoned industrial warehouse. Eclectic music, from punk to acid jazz. Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta | 26/28 Peldu | Riga+371 6 721 38 86 | www.pulkvedis.lv

SANTANDERA PALACE

This hotel, which was opened in 1917, wasbuilt at the behest of Spanish aristocratswanting to spend their summer holidays inSantander. It has everything you could wantfrom a luxury hotel: magnificent views overthe Santander bay, hydrotherapy, seawaterpool, suites, very spacious rooms. Ideal ifyou feel like being pampered. This is one ofthe prestigious “Leading Hotels of theWorld”. Hotel Real (5*) | 28 Pérez Galdós | Santander | +34 942 272 550

A TASTE BUD EXPERIENCEThe La Sal restaurant, a temple to innovationand haute cuisine, has it all: a well-lit diningroom where the food served combines thenew gastronomy with local produce. Theyoung chef, Fausto Alonso Ramirez, has turned this home of traditional food into aninventive culinary experience. Dishes are still based on fish and seasonal produce.Gourmets will also appreciate the wine cellar,with more than 400 Spanish and internationalwines. La Sal | 5, Castelar | Santander | +34 942 214 646

SOFIAWELCOME TO THE CLUB!

Right in the heart of Sofia, on the corner ofBoulevard Tsar Osvoboditel and AvenueRakovski – the road with the theatres – theCentral Military Club is a real cultural nervecentre in Sofia. An old dance hall, frequen-ted in the past by the city’s aristocracy, thisRenaissance style building has retained allits class. Nowadays, the Club is an in placewith café, art gallery, and concert hall. Central Military Club | 7, Tsar OsvoboditelBoulevard | Sofia | +359 (2) 988 17 46

FLOWER POWER

The Hotel Les Fleurs, at the heart of thebusiness, shopping and historic centre, isthe most fashionable hotel in Sofia. There’snothing cold about its design – it could bedescribed as plant-based, if not luxuriant,with wood playing a great part, as the flo-wer theme is handled differently in eacharea and in each non-smoking bedroom.An unusual setting for modern service andcomfort. Hotel Les Fleurs | 21 Vitosha Blvd |Sofia |+359 (2) 8 100 800 |www.lesfleurshotel.com

TANGIER HANGING TERRACES

Built in 1929, the Café Hafa is famous for itsterraces clinging to the cliff and its unbeata-ble views of the Spanish coastline. A havenof peace with a marine backdrop, a haunt ofboth locals and tourists. And quite a fewmusicians, actors and writers have come tochill out here, including the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Sean Connery, Paul Bowles,Jean Genet, and William Burroughs. CaféHafa | Avenue Hadi Mohammed Tazi | Tangier

MOORISH

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Built round an Andalusian courtyard in1930, the Spanish/Moorish style of Tangier’s best 5-star hotel stands out at themeeting point of two worlds, the old andnew towns. It overlooks the bay, the beach,the port, the old town and, in the back-ground, Cap Malabata with the Spanish coastline. Restaurants, bars, pleasant ter-race, a swimming pool in a luxuriant garden,a fitness centre and a huge spa (2000 m2) for recharging one’s batteries. Hôtel El Minzah | 85, Rue de la Liberté | Tangier | www.elminzah.com

TRAVEL DIARIESJournalists, professional globetrotters or travel enthusiasts produce their own mini-reports. A personalapproach based on exchanging and sharing experiences. www.blogtrotters.fr/www.cheminsdumonde.net | amateurtraveler.com/

IN MUSICThree young men cross-crossEastern Europe, Turkey andAfrica looking for anonymousmusicians. They send soundclips from the artists orgroups they meet along theway. www.terre-de-notes.com

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NICOLAS BOGAERTS

In the space of a few minutes, podcasts, the audio or video clips madeby professionals or just keen amateurs, transport you to a world wai-ting to be discovered. A sketch. #

TRAVEL BYPODCAST

GUIDESThe big travel guides have hadto fall into line with the Inter-net. Some offer high-qualityaudio or video podcasts.www.lonelyplanet.tv/www.roughguides.com/web-site/travel/Downloads/Pod-casts/Default.aspxwww.nationalgeographic.com/podcasts/index.html

UNMISSABLEtravelin10.libsyn.com/ Mediterranean shores or Nor-thern or Eastern Europe: each destination is the subjectof a simple and complete mini-report lasting 10 minutes.www.hostelworld.com/podcasts/index.php Discover thebest-kept secrets of Rome, Venice or Marrakech, toname but a few of the destinations. www.ricksteves.com/radio/podcast.htm The site of thegreat reporter from the US public television channelPBS. A reference.