GARMENT FINISH Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in this highly competitive world market. Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives value addition to it. It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate desirable properties. Finishing is the heart of textile processing. Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)} x Quality .
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GARMENT FINISH
Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in this highly competitive world market.
Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives value addition to it.
It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate desirable properties.
Finishing is the heart of textile processing.
Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)} x Quality
.
The need for competitive strategy that utilizes;• Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional
finishes. • Cost reduction through process integration and
minimizing the consumption of all utilities. • More environmentally friendly and application method.• Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment
cost.• Improve process control, monitoring and automation.• Greater innovation in chemical finishes.• Quick response through right-first-time, right-on �time,
right-every-time finishing.
Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to increase attractiveness and/or serviceability of the fabric.
Different finishing treatments are available to get various effects, which add value to the basic textile material.
The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing has emerged as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of the fashion market
METHOD OF APPLICATION: There are two methods of garment finishing.
Dip process.Tumbling process
Dip process: -• Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping
MLR 1:5. Washing machine may be used.• Rotate the garment for 20 min.• Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.• Tumble dry at 70°C to moisture content 10—12 %.• Turn the garment right side out.• Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired
places.• Cure at 150—160°C
Tumble method: -• In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a
machine with sealed (not perforated) cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying.
• The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed.
• This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals.
• After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70°C to 10—20 % pick up moisture content.
• The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150—160°C for 8 -10 min.
Important features: -• MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the
garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those weighing more than 600 gm.
• Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.• Tumble rotation speed 20-30 rpm.• Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than
70°C.
• Moisture retention after drying should be 10-12%.
Wash down effects It can be achieved by a variety of garment processing techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash down or break-in looks.
In garment washing the seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs, etc develop a contour, which can be obtained by washing in garment from only.
Washing down of garments is the latest development in fashion technology. Washing brings out special effects changing the feel and look of garments
Five good reasons can be attributed for washing the garments. To influence physical properties such as softness, handle, drape or fall , absorbency, creasing etc. To influence appearance by altering the nature
of yarn of fabric or lusture. To create shrinkage & effects of shrinkage like
puckering of garments. To create abrasion & related effects. To create a trend in fashion with consistent quality & brand image with range of finishes.
Denim washing
It is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength
Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the garment wash method
• Emphasis is on
Comfort And
Softness.
Fashion Trends Favor The Broken-in Look And Worn/Faded seams
that can only be achieved through garment processing
DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES:
1. Mechanical washes–Stone wash– Micro sanding
2. Chemical washes–Denim bleaching–Enzyme wash–Acid wash
Any of these procedures can be modified
To fit a particular situation,
Depending upon garment type (i.e., heavyweight denim versus lightweight chambray),
Available equipment, and
Process flow.
Also, some of these procedures yield garments suitable for over dyeing, which may create a whole new look.
PROCEDURE 1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks
(especially useful when preset creases are present). 2. Load machine with garments. 3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. 4. Drain. 5. Rinse. 6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from
10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used.
7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect. 8. Drain and rinse. 9. Apply softener. 10. Tumble dry. 11. Invert garments, if previously turned.
12. Press, if required.
STONEWASH
• In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones
• It means Pre washed, abraded, faded either regular or irregular looks are produced by subjecting the dyed garments to severe washing treatments
• In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more unique appearance, desirable look and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the wash bath.
• Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.
• Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.
• A variety of natural and synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the most widely used being pumice or volcanic rock.
As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over a period of time.
The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually abrade the inside of the rotary drum.
A machine used for stonewashing should not be used to dye delicate articles or when abrasion would be detrimental to the fabric.
It’s gives used look because of varying degrees of abrasion in areas such as the waistband, pocket and seems
Degree of colour fading
Garments to stone ratio
Washing time
Size of stone
MLR
Load of garments
Stone weight 0.5-3
Selection of stone• Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and
size for the particular end product.
• It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.
• Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items.
• STONE WT. /FABRIC WT. = 0.5 TO 3 /1
• It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result.
• Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or washed down the drain.
PROCEDURE
1. Load stones into machine.
2. Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight
stones:1 part weight garments).
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. Liquor ratio
approximately 5-8:1.
4. Rinse.
5. Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending
upon desired effect. Liquor ratio 5-8:1 at 50-70◦C. Scouring
additives can also be used.
6. Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments
can be transferred to another machine).
7. Rinse.
8. Apply softener (garments can be transferred to
another machine for softening).
9. Extract and unload.
10. De-stone and tumble dry.
11. Press, if required.
BACK STAINING OR RE-DEPOSITION:
• The dye removed from denim material after the
treatment with cellulose or by a conventional
washing process may cause "back staining” or
"redeposition”.
• Re-coloration of blue threads and blue
coloration of white threads, resulting in less
contrast between blue and white threads.
PROBLEMS CAUSED BY STONES:
• Damage to wash machineries and garment due to
stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion
• Increase in labor to remove dust from finished
garments.
• Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
• Back staining and re deposition.
REMEDY OF BACK STAINING
• Adding dispersion/suspension agent to
wash cycle.
• Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.
• Using alkaline detergent like sodium per
borate with optical brightener as after wash
LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:• Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control
outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion.
• The process is non-selective.• Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing
machines get abraded.• This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment,
and increases production costs.• Stones may turn into powder during the process of making
the garment grayish in color and rough too• Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash• Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts
STONEWASH EFFECT:
• In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added to the garments during washing as abradant. Due to ring dyeing and heavy abrasion fading is more apparent but less uniform.
• The degree of colour fading depends on the garment to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments.
• Normally after desizing, stone wash process starts with pumice stone addition in rotary drum type garment washer.
• Process time varies from 60-120 mins.
• Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded washing effects.
• Stone wash process gives “used” look or “vintage” on
the garments, because of varying degree of abrasion in
the area such as waistband, pocket, seam and body.
• There are many limitations and drawbacks associated
with stone washing process, which can be overcome by
using new enzyme based washing technology.
• This technology also helps to conserve water, time,
energy and environment
ENZYME WASH• Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are
used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone.
• Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fibre, leaving the interior of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fibre.
Cellulase enzyme is classified into two classes:
Acid Cellulase:
It works best in the pH range of 4.5-5.5 and exhibit optimum activity at 50°C.
Neutral cellulase:
It works best at pH 6 however its activity is not adversely affected in the range of pH 6-8 and show maximum activity at 55°C.
Neutral Cellulase:
These are the enzymes which are active between pH: 6-8
• lower abrasion than acid celluloses• low back staining• pH 6 - 8.0
Acid Cellulase:• high abrasion• higher back-staining than neutral cellulases• pH 4.5 - 5.5• optimized pH and temperature = maximum activity of the
enzyme
Acid cellulose
Recipe and Condition Cellulose 450 AP (OWG) 0.5 – 1 gm/l Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor) 0.5 – 1 gm/l White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 – 2 gm/l Treat at 50C and pH – 5 for 30-45 mins
Neutral cellulose
Recipe and Condition Americos cellucom 110 OM (OWG) 0.5 – 1 gm/l Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor) 0.5 – 1 gm/l Americos White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 – 2gm/l Treat at 50C and pH – 5 for 30-45 mins
;
PROCEDURE
1. Load stones in machine (normally 0.5 - 2.0 part weight stones: 1 part weight garments) if applicable.
2. Load garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Rinse.
5. Add cellulase enzyme (amount, pH, temperature, and cycle time dependent upon type of fabric and desired effects; manufacturer's recommendations should be followed).
6. Adjust pH as recommended.
7. Tumble 30-90 minutes.
8. Drain.
*9. Rinse well (70◦C).
10. Drain.
11. Rinse well (70◦C).
12. Drain. Separate garments from stones if used (garments can be transferred to another machine).
13. Apply softener.
14. Extract and unload.
15. De-stone and tumble dry.
16. Press, if require
Advantage of enzyme washing• Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained
without severe damage to the surface of yarn.• Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.• Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster.• Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of
wear.• Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.• Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive.• Fancy colour - flenced surface can be obtained without or a
partial use of stone.• More reproducible effect can be obtained.• It allows more loading of the garment into machines
• Environmental friendly treatment.• Less damage to seam edges and badges.• Wear and tear of equipment is minimum due to
absence of stone.• Use of softener can be avoided or minimised.• Easy handling of floor and severs as messy
sludge of stones does not interfere.• Due to absence of stone, labour intensive
operation of stone removal is not required.• Homogenous abrasion of the garments.• Puckering effect can also be obtained
ACID WASH• It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones
presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or
potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for localized bleaching
resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast.
• To remove the colour only on the surface of the garment and
produces a frosted appearance
• In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be
enhanced by optical brightening.
• The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition
of water is not required.
Procedure: Soak the stones in solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or
potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for 1-2 hrs Stones should be drained of excess liquor with help of mesh Placed stones and garments in machine Tumble for 30 mins or until desire effects are achieved. Results
are dependent up on the dyestuff, fabric, and concentration of chemical, stones, additives, and equipment
In some cases, stones can be used ( resoaking, porosity ) Rinse Apply softener Tumble dry Press, if req.
Limitations of acid wash:• Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow
after wet processing.
• The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete
neutralization, washing or rinsing.
Remedy:• Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with
addition of ethelene- diamine -tetra acetic acid as chelating agent.
• Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone wash, but came with added dangers, expenses, and pollution
MICROSANDING
There are 3 ways for this technique:• Sandblasting• Machine sanding• Hand sanding or hand brushing
Used in various ways: -
• Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)
• On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated')
• Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect.
SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive
material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle
at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the
garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/
abraded/used look.
• It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
• It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
• Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
• Any number of designs could be created by special techniques
Advantages : Pure chemical process Water free process therefore no need
drying Variety of distresses or abraded looks
possible Any number of designs could be created by