Gaming the Old West in Miniature Part One: Issues, Figures and Accessories By Rob LuskAlthough miniatures games set in the Old West have been around for many years, recently there has been a dramatic increase in figures, rules, and accessories for this period. As I imagine is the case with many MWAN readers, I started playing with cowboys and Indians when I was very young and got Fort Apache as a gift; I've been fascinated by the Old West since then. The Boot Hill game came out when I was in high school, and I began to wargame with Airfix plastic cowboys. I have enjoyed games set in this period ever since. While there has always been a lot of source material available, rules and figures have been relatively scarce until the past couple years. The variety of items now available, coupled with the appeal of the Old West and the small scale of many gunfights/battles makes this period all the more enticing. In this article, I will discuss some of the issues and dimensions to consider when gaming the Old West. I will then review some of the figures and accessories that are available. I'll review rules in a subsequent article, which I'm currently working on; I may also include a copy of my own "Ghost Riders" rules (to add to the proliferation of home grown rules for this period). I am certainly not an expert on the Old West; what f ollows are mostly my opinions, which you may certainly disagree with. That's OK, pardner; this town's big enough for more than one opinion. The Question of ScaleTwo related issues here are figure size and scale/ratio. The three main types of metal Old West gaming figures available are 15mm, 20mm (1/72 scale plastics
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Although miniatures games set in the Old West have been around for many
years, recently there has been a dramatic increase in figures, rules, and
accessories for this period. As I imagine is the case with many MWAN readers,
I started playing with cowboys and Indians when I was very young and got Fort
Apache as a gift; I've been fascinated by the Old West since then. The Boot Hill
game came out when I was in high school, and I began to wargame with Airfix
plastic cowboys. I have enjoyed games set in this period ever since. While there
has always been a lot of source material available, rules and figures have been
relatively scarce until the past couple years. The variety of items now available,
coupled with the appeal of the Old West and the small scale of many
gunfights/battles makes this period all the more enticing.
In this article, I will discuss some of the issues and dimensions to consider
when gaming the Old West. I will then review some of the figures and
accessories that are available. I'll review rules in a subsequent article, which I'm
currently working on; I may also include a copy of my own "Ghost Riders"
rules (to add to the proliferation of home grown rules for this period). I amcertainly not an expert on the Old West; what follows are mostly my opinions,
which you may certainly disagree with. That's OK, pardner; this town's big
enough for more than one opinion.
The Question of Scale
Two related issues here are figure size and scale/ratio. The three main types of
metal Old West gaming figures available are 15mm, 20mm (1/72 scale plastics
are pretty comparable to these), and 25mm (I include 28 mm in this category,
since most figures advertised as 25mm are really closer to 28). Obviously,
detail and animation are typically better with larger figures, but you can only fit
so many on a tabletop. In my opinion, 15mm or 20mm is the way to go if you
want to recreate Indian battles in a historical fashion. Unless you have a LOT of
space available (not to mention cash), you will simply not be able to recreate
something like The Battle of Little Big Horn in 25mm. 15mm figures in
particular look good in numbers on the wargame table, and you can have some
pretty awesome scenery dwarfing the figures (mesas, etc.), giving a realistic
feel of the West on a grand scale. This also allows for a lot more
maneuverability, particularly of cavalry.
On the other hand, for smaller skirmishes and gunfights, 25mm tends to have
the most appeal. If you want to have a 1:1 scale gunfight, players tend to relate
better to figures with a lot of detail and animation, especially when each figure
is different. I think the most impressive Old West games I have seen are those
that use a handful or two of 25mm figures with some buildings and other
appropriate terrain (e.g., games run by Keith Leidy -- as pictured in the
November 1997 issue of Wargames Illustrated; and games by Leo Walsh of
TCS run at GENCON and other conventions).
I personally use both 15mm and 25mm scales, and enjoy both, but find myself
increasingly daydreaming about (and spending money on) 25mm. I should put
in a plug at this point for the increasing number of high quality 20mm Old West
figures being produced. Some have enough detail that they are very satisfyingeven in 1:1 scale games, but are cheaper than 25's. They have the added
advantage that they fit in very well with HO scale railroad buildings and
accessories. If I were to start over, I'd probably go with 20mm instead of 15mm.
Regarding the figure:men represented ratio, Old West games vary from 1:1 to at
least 1:5 (still a relatively low ratio compared to most periods). Further, there
are some games where players are expected to take no more than 1 or 2 figures.
These games often assign different characteristics to the figures (e.g., weapon
skills, bravery), and have a relatively complex turn sequence and system fortracking wounds. If you enjoy role-playing, this type of game will probably
have a lot of appeal.
Other games are unit based, and one figure may represent many soldiers,
Indians, etc. Again, this is largely a matter of personal preference, and relates to
the type of action you want to recreate. The gunfight at the OK Corral is clearly
a 1:1 affair; larger Indian battles typically are not. Ground scale and weapon
ranges also vary a lot (this is, of course, not unique to Old West games). The
1:1 games sometimes have a "true to figure" ground scale (e.g., 1" = about 6
feet for 25mm), which can help players get a better feel for what is actually
happening in a game. I've had players tell me that when their figure runs across
a street, they want to be able to visualize what it would be like if they were in
the same situation, and this sort of ground scale helps.
At the same time, rules that use this ground scale often dramatically shortenactual weapon ranges for the sake of playability. Thus, it is not uncommon to
find pistols that can only fire the equivalent of perhaps 25 yards. If you can live
with this, the "true to figure" ground scale can be a lot of fun, especially with
25mm figures. In my experience, younger players, role-players, and those used
to sci-fi and fantasy games enjoy this better than more abstract (albeit realistic)
scales.
History vs. Hollywood
The related issues of realism, playability, complexity and enjoyment of a game
have been discussed concerning other periods in MWAN; Old West gaming
certainly provides more fuel for this discussion. There are a few Old West
games that reflect history; far more that reflect Hollywood's view of history;
and the majority fall somewhere in between. Part of the issue is that the Old
West is such an important part of American folklore, it is often hard to tell what
really happened in many gunfights and battles -- the folklore is hopelessly
intertwined with history.
Also, since many of us were raised with the Hollywood version of the Old
West, we may not care that much about what really happened. In my
experience, Old West gaming is "on the fringe" of true historical gaming, in that
most Old West games really are not very realistic. Does this bother me
personally? Not in the least. To quote the Very Rev. Aelred Glidden, who in
turn was quoting Donald Featherstone, "Never let history get in the way of a
good game". On the other hand, historical purists need not feel too discouraged.
There are more authentic figures available than ever before, and a few rules sets
really do try to recreate history, particularly with Indian battles.
The complexity level of Old West games also varies dramatically. There are
rules sets varying in length from one page (e.g., Keith Leidy's home grown
rules) to over 100 pages in multiple volumes (e.g., Once Upon A Time In The
West). One thing that MWAN has taught me is that complexity does not always
positively correlate with historical accuracy, and sometimes negatively
correlates with players' enjoyment. At the same time, the shortest rules sets
often leave a fair amount open to interpretation, and therefore tend to run most
smoothly when a gamemaster is present to arbitrate when questions arise.
Ironically, the longest sets are often so complex that you need a gamemaster
who is very familiar with the rules, or play tends to bog down as disagreements
arise over the finer points. The issue of complexity of rules has been discussed
several times in MWAN; I will just note that there are dramatic differences
among rules sets in this period, so be sure to take this into consideration as you
are choosing a set for yourself.
The one place where this seems to make the most difference, in my experience,
is when you are trying to recreate gunfights. A simple move-countermove
system doesn't work well for this purpose -- players know when they will shoot
relative to the enemy, and will naturally take advantage of this. There are
several ways that rules address this issue. The most common is to use a card
system for variable determination of action sequences -- this keeps the suspense
up. Another way is through the use of written orders which are simultaneously
revealed; this works well when you are focusing on one or two figures, but
tends to bog down with larger numbers. Finally, some rules have players roll for
initiative.
Setting
A final issue to consider is the setting for your game. Old West games can be
set anytime from around 1850 to 1890, but most focus on the 1870's-1880's.
Participants, weapons, uniforms, Indian tribes, etc. can obviously vary a lot
depending on the period you choose. The two main geographic settings for OldWest games appear to be the Plains and the Southwest. This is one of those
things I really didn't think much about when I started collecting and painting
figures and terrain, but from a reality standpoint can make a lot of difference. If
you are planning on including Indians or Mexicans, this is an important issue.
Plains Indians tribes sometimes did not look that much different from each
other, but they sure look different than Apaches! Further, there weren't very
many Mexicans in, say, Kansas in the late 1800's.
Terrain features also differ a lot based on location. If you are creatingSouthwestern terrain, you'll want to consider including mesas, cacti, adobe, and
a sand/clay colored table and bases for figures. If you're in the Plains, more
"traditional" wargame terrain is generally usable. I discovered this the hard
way, as I decided to place most of my games in southeastern Arizona territory,
and then realized that I didn't have very much appropriate terrain. Players are
still very forgiving, as I continue to mix in features that really shouldn't be
there. If you're like me and have existing terrain that you'd like to use, consider
what you already have in deciding which setting to use.
The last few years have seen a virtual explosion in the number of Old West
figures available. 1996 was truly a banner year -- both Old Glory and GuernseyFoundry released the start of two extensive figure lines in 25mm, including
some of the best Old West figures ever produced. I'll provide an overview of
the figure lines that I'm aware of (in alphabetical order). Much of this
information has been gleaned from the pages of MWAN.
Brittania Miniatures, manufactured in England, available in the U.S. from
Elite Miniatures, c/o Keith Leidy, 2625 Forest Glen Trail, Riverwoods, IL,
60015, as well as some hobby shops. These are 25 mm figures, tending to the
large, "chunky" side, but I love their animation and variety. Brittania offers U.S.cavalry, Apaches, Mexicans, an increasing selection of gunfighters (both
mounted and on foot) and townspeople, and some accessories (e.g., wagons,
longhorns, cannons and gatling guns). I really like this line! The covered
wagons in particular are outstanding.
Complete Brigade, available from Frying Pan and Blanket Amalgamated
(gotta love the name), 2283 Apache Street, Mendota Heights, MN, 55120 (send
SASE for list). They advertise 20mm U.S. cavalry and Plains Indians. I haven't
seen these figures, so I cannot comment further.
Connoisseur Historical Miniatures, previously just manufactured in England,
now manufactured in the U.S. as well by J & T Miniatures, HC 83, Box 15,
Pequot Lakes, MN, 56472 (218-568-7447). They offer a 25mm Pony Wars line,
with U.S. cavalry, Plains Indians, Apaches, civilians, and gunfighters. These
figures are close to 28 mm in size; the poses are quite good, though the level of
detail and animation vary.
Dixon Miniatures, manufactured in England, available in the U.S. fromWargames Inc., Box 278, Route 40 East, Triadelphia, WV, 26059 (send $3 for
listing). Also available at some hobby shops. Dixon produces a variety of
25mm Wild West figures and accessories (e.g., a really nice stagecoach). Their
figures are typically around 28mm. They generally have very good animation
and detail. Dixon carries more mounted cowboys than most other companies,
and has an extensive line of gunfighters, townsfolk, and some Indians.
years, I believe 15mm Minifig Old West figures are still available. These are
"true" 15mm scale, and relatively well detailed and animated. They fit in well
with Freikorps 15 and Frontier miniatures. I have some of their gunfighters; I'm
not sure what else is available.
Old Glory, available from Emperor's Headquarters, 5744 W. Irving Park Road,
Chicago, IL, 60634 (312-777-7307). Also available at some hobby shops. TheWarpaint range is an extensive line of 25mm settlers/townspeople, U.S. cavalry,
Plains Indians, Apaches, gunslingers, lawmen, and accessories (e.g., teepees, a
stagecoach, and wagons). Very nice figures for the most part (details tend to be
very good; animation is not as good on some), typically between 25 and 28 mm.
The variety and price are simply outstanding! Reviewed by Stephen Lawrence
in MWAN 89.
Pass of the North, Jeff Caruso, 1060 Esplanada, El Paso, TX, 79913 (915-581-
3282). Catalog $2 + SASE. An extensive line of U.S. cavalry, Indians,gunfighters, Mexicans, and townspeople in 25mm, including some specialty
sets like the Magnificent Seven. True 25mm scale figures. Excellent poses,
detail and animation; the only problem is that they tend to be small relative to
most other "25mm" figures. Apaches were reviewed in MWAN 84 by Stephen
Lawrence.
Peter Pig, manufactured in England; available from Brookhurst Hobbies,
12188 Brookhurst Street, Garden Grove, CA, 92640 (714-636-3580). Peter Pig
makes an extensive line of 15mm Old West figures and accessories, includinggunfighters, Plains Indians, townspeople, characters, resin buildings, and even a
train! A little chunky, but very good detail and animation; they fit well with
most other lines of 15mm figures.
Pinnacle Miniatures, available from hobby shops or from Pinnacle
Entertainment Group, P.O. Box 10908, Blacksburg, VA, 24062-0908 (800-214-
5645). These are 28 to 30mm figures designed for the Great Rail Wars
miniatures game and the Deadlands roleplaying game. These games are set in
an alternate history Old West, where magic, monsters, and advanced steamtechnology exist, and the Civil War has continued into the 1870's. There are
gunfighters, Indians, townspeople, artillery, special characters, monsters, and
even undead gunslingers if you want to add a weird twist to your game!
Animation and detail are somewhat uneven, but tend to be excellent.
Qualiticast, manufactured in England, but available from Brookhurst Hobbies
(see Peter Pig for address/phone number). Qualiticast makes 20mm Indians,
settlers, and gunfighters. These are very nice, well detailed and proportioned
25 mm gunfighters; I haven't seen them, but David Barnes (in MWAN 89)
notes that they are "slim fellows but well in keeping with the era and excellently
animated and cast" (p. 17).
Accessories
Just as with Old West figures, there has been a recent dramatic increase inavailable accessories. While I'm sure there are many that I am not aware of,
here is a listing of those that I'm familiar with.
Airfix, available at many hobby shops. Makes a plastic 1/72 scale fort (Fort
Apache) that works well for 20mm figures. Decent detail. Comes with plastic
U.S. cavalry and Indians.
Dixon, see figures section for address. Dixon makes Wild West 25mm
buildings ("every single one built from scratch and fully painted") which look
very impressive. They appear to be made of wood.
The Drum, available from some hobby shops, including The Emperor's
Headquarters (Chicago). The Drum makes 15mm scale resin buildings,
including a log fort with towers. This fort is very nicely detailed, and makes a
great centerpiece for a (probably fictitious) attack on a fort. (Note: the only
25mm scale fort like this that I've seen was made by Greenfield many years
ago, and is no longer in production. If anyone knows of someone else who
produces a "Fort Apache"-style fort for 25mm, I'd love to hear about it!)
Ertl Western Cowtown, Longhorn Ranch, and assorted barns, etc. Available in
department and toy stores (sets with one BIG building or several good-sized
buildings are typically $25-$30). These plastic buildings are remarkably well-
suited for 28mm figures, and are relatively well-detailed and inexpensive. Someof the accessories they come with can be used as well (e.g., cattle). They have
lift-off roofs, and some even have semi-detailed interiors. However, some of
these interiors are amusing -- a staircase leading to a balcony that leads
nowhere, and a jail cell with a back door(!) These paint up pretty well (Stephen
Lawrence had some at Little Wars that looked very nice). They were favorably
reviewed by Mr. Lawrence in MWAN 84.
Frontline Wargaming, manufactured in England; available in the U.S. from
RLBPS (see Raventhorpe Miniatures for address). These are 25mm resin WildWest buildings and accessories (e.g., furniture, graves, horse troughs, derelict
wagon, and a mine entrance). Buildings start at around $12; accessories start at
around $3. Some of these (e.g., the graves and mine entrance) are closer to
"true" 25mm scale; others are fine for 28mm (e.g., much of the furniture; the
trough). Detail varies. These were favorably reviewed by Hal Thinglum in
MWAN #88.
H.G. Walls, 3026 Springbrook Drive, South Bend, IN, 46614 (219-299-0352).
H.G. offers 25mm Old West building kits from about $25-$40. Someaccessories are also available (e.g., signs). These take awhile to finish, but are
gorgeous -- among the best looking Old West buildings available, in my
9336). Send $2 for catalog. Musket makes 15mm American Civil War and Old
West resin and metal buildings and accessories, including wagons and cacti.
These are very nicely done, with excellent detail. They work very well with
15mm figures.
Pass of the North (see figures for address) offers 25mm scale cacti -- saguaro,barrel, and prickly pear. These are available finished for $2-$8, and are
described as "the hit of Historicon".
Peter Pig (see address under miniatures). In addition to their figure line, Peter
Pig makes an extensive line of buildings and accessories in 15mm scale. The
buildings are relatively well detailed (no interiors); accessories are very
extensive, and include a train. They work very well with 15mm figures.
Signifier, 2001 E. Lohman, Suite 149, Las Cruces, NM, 88001 (505-525-2378).Signifier offers 15mm and 25mm scale flags, including U.S. cavalry, Custer,
and Buffalo Soldiers flags. Send an SASE for a listing, or $3 for a catalog.
These are excellent flags, with brilliant colors, and to my knowledge are the
only flags available specifically for this period. Hal Thinglum reviews Signifier
flags in MWAN 91, and states that they are "highly recommended"; I agree.
Snapdragon Studios, 3, Norleaze, Heywood, N. Westbury, Wiltshire, BA13,
4LQ, UK. They offer 25mm resin Wild West building facades. They were
reviewed by David Barnes in MWAN 83; while I have not seen them, theysound very nice.
Tactical Conflict Systems, 545 Newport Drive, Suite 155, Pawtucket, RI,
02861 (401-437-9820). Send $1 for catalog. This is a very extensive line of
25mm Old West buildings and accessories made of hard plaster (I believe) and
metal. There is a variety of buildings to choose from (including a Cowtown
series and a saloon). The buildings are well-detailed, with open interiors for the
most part. You can add windows, staircases and other details; in fact, many of
the buildings are modular, and you can combine different pieces to make a
customized town. They take awhile to assemble and finish, but look great! The
accessories include fences and outhouses. Price range is about $4 to $50.
Favorably reviewed by Hal Thinglum in MWAN #86 and #91. They work well
with 25-28mm figures.
Wild Walls, available from hobby shops; manufactured by Sci-Fi Supply(address unknown). These are 25mm scale thin plastic building kits. A barn,
jail, log cabin, and saloon are available. These are relatively well-detailed and
inexpensive, but require a fair amount of work (including cutting out the parts
of the building) to finish, and will blow away in a stiff breeze. Still, they look
good when finished!
A Note on Trains
There are several train sets that can be used to add a nice touch to a game, oreven help you recreate a train robbery! HO scale trains work very well with
20mm figures, and (in my opinion) work well with 15's as well. The "Old
Timer" by Bachman is a very nice HO scale train. O scale trains fit perfectly
with 28mm figures, though they are hard to find (and expensive) for this period.
A couple of Lionel 4-4-0 engines, the General and the engine from the Virginia
and Truckee 1988 Service Station Set, are ideal, and can still be found at train
shows; there are also train cars from Lionel that are suitable. Since these are too
pricey for many gamers who are not also railroad enthusiasts, a cheap
alternative is the battery powered trains that come out in droves aroundChristmas; but can often be found at Toys-R-Us throughout the year. While
these are a bit large even for 28mm, and may not be the most realistic, they can
work quite nicely, and typically cost around $25-$30 (less in after Christmas
sales).
Old West Part Two: the Rules
Back to MWAN #94 Table of ContentsBack to MWAN List of Issues
Old West Part One: Issues, Figures and Accessories
Welcome back, pardners! Here is the second part of my article on Old Westminiatures gaming. In the first article (which appeared in MWAN #94), 1
discussed some of the issues that arise in gaming this period, and reviewed
some of the figures and accessories available. In this article, I will provide an
overview of published Old West rules sets that I am aware of. I will also briefly
discuss some of the factors that I feel should be considered in designing or
evaluating rules for this period.
I would like to stress that I am really providing overviews of rules sets rather
than reviews per se. I will attempt to give the reader a good idea of themechanics and important aspects of the rules, without a lot of critical analysis.
If someone publishes a rules set for a period I love, I'm not going to be too
critical! I have used the same overview format for most of the rules in order to
allow for comparability; these are the features that I feel are most important in
evaluating an Old West rules set. While I have playtested many of these rules, I
haven't tried all of them, so I apologize in advance if I have not represented
them accurately.
There are a number of sources for Old West rules these days. One of the best isMWAN; as you will see, many of these rules sets were published in MWAN,
and I learned about several others via ads. Another great source is MagWeb on
the Internet, which has several publications that contain Old West rules.
Locally, there are a few hobby shops that carry Old West rules, including some
out of print rules (e.g., The Game Room in Washington, IL, Bear Productions in
Champaign, IL, and Beyond Eternity in Peoria, IL); I imagine this is true for
game specialty shops throughout the country, especially those that have been
around for a while. I am always looking for other rules, and would be happy to
Evaluation: The rules are clear, relatively concise (the rules themselves really
only take up about 11 pages; the rest is scenarios, etc.), and have a very tense,
realistic feel to them. Highly recommended for very small games (no more than
two figures per player).
Also of interest is Forrest's interactive Old West adventure called "The Devil's
Addition," which is like a novel but allows the reader (as the main character) tochoose different options and determine their consequences with the aid of dice.
This is very entertaining and very highly recommended. Available from
Knuckleduster Publications, P.O. Box 1024, Normal, IL, 61761.
Troop Characteristics: Strength, Smarts, Vigor, Shootin', Fightin', and Guts.
Each has a dice type associated with it (from d4 to d12, with d6 being average).
There are two target numbers for rolls -- Easy (4) and Hard (8). For example,
hitting at short range is Easy, while it is Hard at long range. If you get the
highest possible roll on a die, it is rerolled and added; in other words, if you roll
a 6 on a d6, you roll again and add the second roll; if it is a 6, you add both and
keep going. This creates some interesting probability-related issues (e.g., it
becomes easier to roll an 8 on a d6 than a d8), but seems to work well overall.
Action Sequence: Each player or side uses a poker deck to determine the action
sequence (count down from Ace). Units and individual figures have a Speed
factor that determines the number of cards drawn each turn (usually one for
units and two for heroes). Units/figures act when their card comes up. You can
hold one action and use it to interrupt another's action. Normally units can move
and fire.
Movement: 6" on foot, 15" mounted (with modifiers for terrain). If a figure
runs, it gets no other actions, but gains d6" on foot and d10" mounted. Rules for
unit coherency are included.
Missile Fire: The Shooting die is rolled, with the target number based on range
and modifiers. If you hit, the target rolls its Vigor. Depending on how much the
damage done exceeds this roll, the target is either Eatin' Dirt (prone until
recovers) or Put Down (out of the game). Rules for artillery and dynamite are
included.
Melee: Opponents roll Fightin'; if the attacker rolls higher than the defender, he
hits (proceed as in Missile Fire); otherwise there is no effect.
Morale: Under certain circumstances (e.g., excessive casualties), units mustmake Guts checks. If they fail, they become Shaken (-I to rolls) and may then
become Panicked if they fail a subsequent test.
Other Features: An interesting addition is the use of "Fate Chips" (you start
with three, and can earn more during the game), which are cashed in to improve
dice rolls. There are rules for horses, scenarios, victory conditions, experience
and advancement, strange occurrences (when Jokers are drawn), and detailed
rules for creating and advancing heroes. A couple of supplements are now out --
Derailed!, which includes rules for vehicles and a few rules additions; and A
Fist Full 0' Ghost Rock, which features a campaign plus some rules additions.More supplements are due shortly.
Evaluation: The rules are very well written in a campy Western style, clear,
relatively easy to learn, and a lot of fun! They are not really complex, but are
rich in detail. The fantasy/horror element and simplicity of some of the rules
(e.g., you can unlimber and fire a 6 lb. cannon in the same amount of time you
can fire a rifle once or a pistol twice) will put off many historical gamers, but
there are many great ideas here. Very highly recommended -- one of my
Missile Fire: Shooting is simple, and uses d6s; units that are hit get a saving
throw. If they do not save, they are removed.
Melee: Similar to missile fire.
Morale: Test if a leader dies, a group is killed, or you are targeted by another
player. A nice system, which uses the leader's Command Value and the numberof groups in the command to determine a base number to roll. Then modifiers
are added, and a player must roll < this number to hit on a d6. If the roll fails,
the command becomes Pinned (cannot advance). If they fail again, they become
double-pinned and must retreat. They only improve one grade per turn.
Other Features: Victory points (gained for both the off table and tabletop game)
determine the winner and level of victory. Many optional special rules are
included (e.g., trains, dynamite).
Evaluation: These rules are very well written, with lots of color (e.g., a section
on good cliches is included). This is a very fun game, and works well for 15mm figures. The off table game adds a fascinating twist, and makes the tabletop
game more exciting; it forces players to use more strategy than a typical "shoot
'em up" game. These are currently my favorite rules for 15mm figures. Very
Format/Pages: Cardstock cover, stapled, 40 pages plus cardstock play sheets,
wound cards, and counters.
Cost: around $12
Focus/Setting: These are highly detailed, intense rules for smaller gunfights (no
more than three figures per player are recommended); the rules have a realistic
feel to them.
Scale Written for 25min scale figures, but can be adjusted to other scales. 1: 1
figure to man ratio. One turn is 3-5 seconds. Ground scale is 1 inch = 6 feet.
Troop Characteristics: No characteristics per se, but activation chance (see
below) varies based on the type of figure -- from 10% (female civilian) to 35%
(bounty hunter).
Action Sequence: The turn system uses an alternating move sequence, but
figures must make an Activation roll to fire or light a dynamite ftise. This
results in some tense, exciting moments during gunfights.
Movement: There is a detailed movement system (the stance you use at the start
and end of your turn determines your maximum move).
Missile Fire: Shooting is percentile based, with a number of modifiers. Hits can
cause minor or serious wounds. Cards are included which are drawn to
determine wound effects; this is an ingenious system, and makes it easy to keep
track of wounds as well. Rules for suppression fire are included -- activation
chance and chance to hit are reduced when a figure is under fire. Ammo is
limited, and must be tracked.
Melee: Melee is also percentile based. Rolls (with modifiers) are compared firstto a chart, then to each other, and the difference determines the seriousness of
the wound.
Morale: No morale rules per se, but activation and suppressing fire mean
figures don't always do what you want them to.
Other Features: A variety of colorful rules are included, such as rules for
dynamite, dressing wounds, and statistics for many weapons. Historical and
Hollywood scenarios are included.
Evaluation: Overall, these rules are clear and very well written. This is a very
good set of rules for small scale skirmishes, though the often relatively smallpercentage chance of activation can be frustrating (albeit suspenseful). Due to
the high level of detail included, I'd limit games to a handful of figures. Highly
recommended.
Title: Hoka Hey! The Indians of the Plains, 1850-1890
Author: M. Goddard of Rules for the Common Man
Publisher : Rules for the Common Man (I got my copy from Modeler's Mart
role playing with characters, and includes rules for experience, characteristics
advancement, income, weather, ricochets, new weapons, new army lists, and
other information.
Cost: around $20 for parts 1-3, and $8.50 for part four.
Focus/Setting: Primarily gunfights of the Hollywood variety, but these are
adaptable to many situations.
Designed for 25min or 54mm figures using a 1: 1 figure to man ratio. One turn
= two seconds. Ground scale is 1cm = 1 yard for 25mm, 1" = one yard for
54mm.
Troop Characteristics: Depending on which aspects you use, there are a number
of variables that could be considered characteristics. These are primarily
grouped as Weapon, Mental, and Physical Abilities. There is a point system in
Part 3.
Action Sequence : Turns are divided into two Phases of one second each. There
is a large table of actions including the amount of time each takes using the
favored hand, unfavored hand, and both hands, as well as modifiers for wounds.
Movement: A simple system based on type of move (e.g., walk 4 yards per
phase).
Missile Fire: Four types of shots -- snap, deliberate, aimed, and panic. The
AGRO is used to determine percentage chance to hit and the effects of a hit.
The AGRO takes a LOT of variables into account and is exceedingly complex
to use (it was for me, anyway). There are rules for wound locations, four types
of wounds, various wound effects, and rules for recovery from wounds. This is
too much detail for my tastes.
Melee: Melee is percentile based and very complex. Start by determining the
"Combat Potential" of a figure. To illustrate how complex this is, here is aquote: "To find this, compare the Close Combat factor of the figure to the Close
Combat factor of the opponent. Subtract the lower from the higher and multiply
by 10. Add this to 80. The result is the potential of the figure with the highest
Combat factor." This can be allocated in different ways. Then, both opponents
write down how their potential is distributed, and apply the relevant modifiers.
There are additional optional rules as well. Finally, percentiles are rolled, and a
chart is consulted to determine effects.
Morale: A relatively complex system is included.
Other Features: Rules for the following are included: perception (e.g., "a cigarcan be smelt at a range of 10 yards in the open"), falling, impulse fire, duck
backs, fanning, horses and wagons, dogs, surrendering, explosives, and fast
draws. Many other areas are covered as well. As already mentioned, there is a
simple set of rules for conventions included in the main set.
Evaluation: Overall, these are by far the most complex Old West rules I've ever
encountered. In my opinion, they provide rules for many, many things that you
don't really need rules for. However, they provide some outstanding reference
material for those designing their own rules. Recommended.
Format/Pages: Cardstock cover, 33 pages plus play sheet.
$9.50Focus/Setting: These rules are for VERY large scale games involving U.S.
troops, Indians, and civilians. The U.S. cavalry is clearly the Hollywood version
(and meant to be). All of the players are on one side, commanding U.S. troops
and civilians; the Indians' strength and moves are determined randomly. Pony
Wars can also be played solo due to this feature. The rules recommend that you
have more than 100 U.S. troops, more than 100 civilians, and more than 700 (!)
Indians available (not all are used, but can be in a game; I found the rules
workable with far fewer figures. I divided by up to 10 in some cases).
Scale: Designed for 15mm figures at a 1: 1 figure to man ratio. Time andground scales not specified.
Troop Characteristics: No characteristics per se, but troop type affects missile
fire, melee ability, and morale.
Action Sequence: Cards are drawn each turn from a deck with various numbers
of U.S. and Indian reinforcements, as well as ambush, liability, and special
cards (examples of cards are 20 hostiles, 10 troopers, wagon train, avalanche).
Movement: Movement is straightforward -- there are three rates per troop type
(normal, charge, and pursued). For example, infantry normally moves 6".
Missile Fire: Shooting is percentile-based, and the target number depends onthe type of firer, range, and target type. Ammo is tracked by unit/figure. Figures
that are hit are removed.
Melee: Melee is also percentile-based, and depends on who is
attacking/defending. Characters (e.g., Ringo, Dando, and The Lone Ranger) get
saving throws. Figures that are hit are removed.
Morale: Indians roll for reactions on 2d6; reactions vary by different situations,
with a number of interesting results. Civilians must also roll reactions, but can
be brought "under orders" by proximity to U.S. troops.
Other Features: There are colorful rules for characters, stagecoaches, wagon
trains, etc. Due to the reinforcement arrival system, the rules call for table edges
to be marked with numbers at different intervals. Information is provided on
how to make table edges and other scenery. (I used a diagram of the table to roll
for reinforcements, which worked well, so you don't really need to have the
numbers on the table.)
Evaluation: I don't think most of us will ever have all of the figures called for,
but the rules still work out relatively well on a smaller scale. Some quirky
things can happen with the random/table-driven arrival of troops, but overall
that you can make it to a building), whereas entirely random movement
sometimes leads to silly results. I prefer a combination of a fixed amount plus a
dice roll, with greater variability for faster movement (e.g., walk 3" + 0"; run 6"
+ D6").
Missile Fire and Melee: There are many different systems available; the one
you choose will largely be a matter of preference for the degree of realism (andresulting complexity). Hit location and differential wound determination work
very well in small games, where each player controls no more than about five
figures. For larger games, I'd recommend a simple system for casualties (e.g.,
most figures are removed if they take a wound; you can use a more elaborate
system for heroes and officers). Regarding mechanics, I like rolling one die per
figure (plus or minus modifiers); if you roll a target number you hit. The quality
dice idea (used in Warpaint and The Great Rail Wars) is a nice, simple way to
differentiate skills for different figures/units but maintain the same target
number. 98
Morale: Some rules have more traditional morale systems, where units can lose
effectiveness or rout due to casualties and other factors. Others include "nerve"
checks or the equivalent for individual figures, who may be unable to act if a
check is failed. Many Old West rules do not make morale or nerve an issue. I
personally prefer having some aspects of morale included, but also prefer
largely dictating what my troops do in a game. This may not be as realistic, but
in the Old West games I've played too many rules removing players' abilities to
control their troops tend to be frustrating, especially in gunfights. I recommenda simple system with a few specific causes (e.g., casualties) to check morale.
Other Features: I highly recommend using "event" cards or the equivalent -- for
example, at the end of each turn each side gets one, which can be played as
specified on the card. These can be humorous if desired, and can add very
interesting twists to play. They should be used sparingly, however. Artillery and
dynamite can also be fun, but should also be used sparingly. As usual, there is a
tradeoff between the number of details and the speed of the game in most cases.
That's all for now, pardners! Happy trails until we meet again!
Old West Part One: Issues, Figures and Accessories