® ANTEPRIME BRUNELLO 2011 AMARONE 2012 TRAVEL & FOOD CUBA EVENTS EN PRIMEUR TASTING Verona FOOD&WINE YEAR 21 N. 95 - APRIL 2016 WINE TRAVEL FOOD PERBELLINI: EXPLORE MY CITY WWW . GAMBEROROSSO . IT
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ANTEPRIMEBRUNELLO 2011AMARONE 2012
TRAVEL & FOODCUBA
EVENTSEN PRIMEUR TASTING
VeronaFOOD&WINE
YEAR 21 N. 95 - APRIL 2016
W I N E T R A V E L F O O D
PERBELLINI: EXPLORE MY CITY
WWW . G AMB E RO RO S S O . I T
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COVER STORY42 | Verona: La mia CasaPerbellini talks about his favorite places. The chef, who has
tells about the many culinary sites he created in the city he returned to a little over a year ago, to realize his dream.. WINE21 | Outperform Rating on Brunello 2011A good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto to frame the 2011 Montalcino harvest. The year’s climate is perceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush. Great
at the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010...
40| Amarone 2012: a mediocre vintage2012 was a complicated year, uphill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and expressive wines, in some cases already low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might expect...
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TRAVEL52 | Cuba: the allure of the CaribbeanIn a period of effervescent transition,after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend between old style and the new on its way in
FOOD58 | Recipes from Great Chefs: PerbelliniThe challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmers’ markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence
NEWS & MORE 4 | Editorial 6 | News 10 | Events 16 | Italians abroad Saitta in Düsseldorf18 | Wine of the month Cesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene ’14 Damiano Ciolli19 | Twitter dixit20 | Design Corkscrews22 | Pairing Lab Lazio
«This is one of the disadvantages of wine,
it makes a man mistake words for thoughts»
Samuel Johnson
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EDITORIAL
For a few days each year, Verona becomes the Italian capital of wine tasting, the place where you meet every-one, try everything, explore what’s new. This has been going on for 50 years, since 1967. From its quiet begin-nings, it has become the international stage for the stars of the recent history of Italian wine, the place for those winemakers who, tired of small town festivals, want the entire world to recognize the extraordinary quality of their products.
a critical moment in the history of Italy’s enology. A few days before, the scandal of adulterated wine had explod-ed. It involved a number of companies that had handled
Narzole, in the province of Cuneo, on the shore of the Tanaro river. That liquid took the lives of 23 people. A criminal in a small town on the border of the extraordi-nary world of the Langa, of Barolo and Barbaresco, was able to imperil the efforts of a generation of grapegrow-ers who had decided to make Italian wine great. They had just begun to garner the success they deserved in the world. Morale was low in those days. Exports had slumped. Italian wines were stopped at the German bor-der to await new analyses.
visit, I felt someone grab my arm. I found a glass thrust into one hand and a slice of salami into the other. A giant of a man shouted, “Taste how great this Barbera is!!!” The wine, lively and fragrant, was very, very good. The salami was extraordinary. The man who grabbed my arm was Giacomo Bologna, the father of modern
-lometers away from the despicable Narzole, Bologna had traveled around the most prestigious wineries in the world to learn how the greatest wines were made. After my baptism with Monella, I was found worthy of tasting Bricco dell’Uccellone, his great wine, a grand vin. Thanks to him and those wines, I understood that I had found my own world. I saw that the universe of Italian wine would, in the end, make it through this disaster. We dedicate the wine pages that follow to Giacomo Tachis, who has just passed away, to Giacomo Bologna, and to all those who over the years have made Italian wine so wonderful, and so beloved around the world.
Marco Sabellico
VINITALY30 YEARS AGO
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APRIL 2016
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APRIL 2016
WINE AND ECONOMY
In the United States, the presi-dential primaries don’t exclude alcohol. In one of his recent press conferences in Florida, Republi-can candidate Donald Trump promoted his winegrowing estate in Virginia. Trump Winery (800 hectares, of which 81 are vine-yard) is run by his son Eric. “It is the largest winery estate on the East Coast,” he affirmed, un-derlining that the enterprise had never incurred any debt. It was a response to the accusations of ex-candidate Mitt Romney, who pointed out that every Trump Business (except wine) had failed, from Trump Airlines to Trump University, from Trump Vodka to Trump Steaks. Meanwhile, on the Democrat front, another al-coholic drink enlivened the pri-maries. Windsor’s Motor Craft Ales dedicated a beer to Bernie Sanders, calling it Bernie. It will be available in a few weeks in a limited edition.
PRESIDENTIAL PRIMARIES IN THE USA. Trump wine versus Sanders’ beer
OXYGEN AND SULFITES. Research explains how they influence each other and how to manage themWhat happens to wine in the pres-ence of oxygen? What is the des-tiny of exogenous anti-oxidants such as sulfur dioxide? These are the questions that a research group formed by Cantine Mezzacorona, Fondazione Edmund Mach and Nomacorc, a wine-closure giant, asked. The study was carried out on 12 white wines, produced from six different grape varieties and in the presence of different quantities of oxygen. “We discovered new chemical reactions that involve sulfur dioxide. We found out that sulfur dioxide reacts with other an-ti-oxidants present in wine, such as glutathione, reducing their overall anti-oxidant capacity,” explained Panagiotis Arapitsas, researcher with the Fondazione Edmund Mach. “Instead of having an add-
on effect, they eliminate each oth-er, leaving the wine less protected.” And now, what will be the practi-cal application of the experimen-tation? “This discovery,” Arapitsas continued, “will help us towards a more intelligent use of sulfur diox-ide. In fact, regular measurement of the compounds capable of re-acting with sulfites could contrib-ute to our better judging the con-centration of sulfites appropriate to best protecting wine, and even-tually, lead to reducing the quanti-ty of sulfite dioxide added.” In this way, it will be possible to find new indicators to better understand the capacity of each wine to resist oxi-dation, and therefore winemakers will be able to better judge how to manage the presence of oxygen during and after bottling.
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Once again in 2015, the export of Italian sparkling wine grew more than that of its competitors, France and Spain. In terms of volume, the increase was 13% (2.7 million hectoliters) compared to 7% for the French (1.8 million hectoliters) and the 4% for the Spanish (1.6
in the world for this type of wine (the United States, United Kingdom and Germany) the proportion of Italian spumante in the total sparkling wine market reached 59% in the UK, 51% in the USA and 29% in Germany. (In the latter case, the data doesn’t include frizzanti wines, which are a relevant element in German imports: from Italy alone, over 500,000 hectoliters ar-rived in 2015, most of it Prosecco). Although the array of sparkling wines is very varied and not easily compa-rable among the different exporting countries (above all in terms of production method, i.e Charmat or bottle fermentation), the fact remains that if, instead of vol-ume you consider value, the Italian share diminishes sharply. The average price at export of French sparkling
wines is 3 times that of Italian ones in Germany, 5 times in the USA and 6 times in the UK. If you compare it to Champagne, the difference increases exponentially (over 8 times in the USA). But the difference still re-mains if you restrict the comparison to spumante DOPs (excluding Champagne in France and Asti in Italy). In this case, the price of French sparkling wine is about 1.5 times that of Italian. The top ranking for affordability goes to the Spanish: In Germany, the average price paid in 2015 was less than 2 euros per liter.
ITALIAN SPUMANTE IS THE WORLD’S FAVORITE. Because it costs less?
Bad news for wine commerce in the United Kingdom. Chancellor George Osborne, presenting his new bud-get to Parliament, announced that the tax on wine
-rettes. Other alcoholic beverages, however, will re-main unchanged. The announcement distressed the
on the sector, above all in a moment when the ster-ling seems weak against the euro, a factor that works against imports from countries such as France, Spain and Italy. The tax on wine in the United Kingdom is the second highest in Europe (after Ireland). Just last year it brought four billion pounds sterling into the government cash drawer. In practice, at the moment (without considering the new increase), the tax on an
55%, or 2.75 pounds. Wine has not had the 1984 ex-cise taxes reduced. Moreover, the tax clips the wings of the emerging wine industry in England. The effects
the United Kingdom.
UNITED KINGDOM. NEW INCREASE IN WINE TAX. Beers and spirits unchanged. Winegrowers’ associations protest: “The regulation damages a growing sector.”
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IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, A FARM SYSTEM WILL PRODUCE BOTH BIOFUEL AND FOOD. At the same timeA recently published study in Sci-
-duction of biofuel in 2013. It showed that if maize, wheat, soy, sugar cane, palm oil and rapeseed oil were destined to be used as food, they could feed a third of the un-dernourished people on the planet. This is why it is important to de-velop more sustainable production methods, such as that being stud-ied in the United Arab Emirates. A new plant will produce food and
Abu Dhabi project is innovative in many ways. Surrounded by desert, the farm uses sea water to irrigate
-ing algae and aquatic plants which are destined for use as biofuel. The
idea emerged from collaboration between the Masdar Institute of Science and Technology and Eti-had. Boeing and Honeywell UOP have contracted to build the plant to produce renewable biofuel for the aviation industry. The princi-ple is simple. The pilot project will use seawater and recycled waste
food, and the waste will then be pumped into a tank full of salt-tolerant plants grown for use as aviation biofuel and fertilizer for mangroves. The aviation industry has understood the importance of investing in researching biofuels for airplane motors. The innovative Abu Dhabi solution seems to sat-isfy all.
The wait for a table at the restau-rant Celler de Can Roca, in Gi-rona, in Spain, can last almost a year, but the culinary experiences served up by the two brothers is un-forgettable. In their search for cre-ative approaches to cooking, the Roca brothers also conduct their own avant-garde research into kitchen techniques. In partnership with Cata Electrodomésticos, they invented Rocook, an induction plate connected by Bluetooth to a thermostat for cooking at high and low temperatures. It comes with the cookbook entitled “Low-temperature cooking with Joan Roca”, distributed by Planeta. In their own kitchens, home chefs can attain a perfect vacuum that permits low-temperature cooking like that perfected over decades in Celler de Can Roca. The appli-ance and book cost less than 400 euros. As Joan Roca often says, “The best restaurant in the world doesn’t exist, and the best cooking is a mother’s.”
ROCOOK. Vacuum cooking for all, from the Roca brothers, now on the home appliance market
NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
APRIL 2016
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Phaidon has published excellent and imposing works in the past, such as the six-volume Modernist Cuisine, or the guide to chefs’ favorite restau-rants, Where Chefs Eat. Now edi-tor Daniel Young, New York critic transplanted to London, has curated an encyclopedic guide for those mo-ments, no matter where in the world you are, when the yen for authentic pizza is overwhelming. In this me-ticulous work, Where to Eat Pizza, over 1,000 food experts from around the world have contributed their ad-vice. The 576-page book includes city maps and reviews of more than 1,700 pizzerias. Chefs, critics, and trade professionals participated en-thusiastically in the preparation of this pizza Bible, available in April, 2016. The guide ignores ratings, but just aims to be a substantial list of
outside Naples (which also appears, with many addresses noted), from the Americas to Asia to northern Eu-rope. The volume is a celebration of the global success of an Italian food that today is a part of everyone’s life.
WHERE TO EAT PIZZA.The Phaidon encyclopedia helps find the nearest pizzeria. Anywherein the world
Last year the Criterion on Picca-dilly Circus, one of London’s his-toric restaurants, closed its doors. The expenses of managing the site had become overwhelming. In December 2015, however, an Ital-ian buyer decided to invest in the prestigious location, and the new owner of the Criterion is the Gatto family, known for its restaurant in the Galleria in Milano, Savini. So today, diners at Savini at Criterion
-ents and Italian recipes at this clas-sic London address. Some exam-ples of the tried and true dishes on the menu: roast pork with heirloom borretana onions and balsamic vinegar, eggplant parmigiana, ri-sotto alla milanese (with saffron),
SAVINI AT CRITERION. 150 years of history, from Milano to London. Another triumph for Italian cucinain the world
pappa al pomodoro (bread and to-mato soup), steak with artichokes, eggplant and radicchio, chicken with potatoes and rosemary, osso-
and a wide range of pasta dishes are available, as are international classics, such as French foie gras with pan brioche, or Peruvian veal cheek with star anise and potatoes, or raw oysters and grilled scallops. The restaurant is open from 8 a.m. until midnight. The aim is to join 150 years of Italian and English traditions, since the Savini brand dates back to 1867, when it opened in Milano’s Galleria. The Crite-rion bar is back in action, serving drinks from aperitif time to after-dinner nightcaps.
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GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD
GAMBERO ROSSOLANDS IN DUBAI
DUBAIAn exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines showcased in Dubaiduring a unique Italian NIght
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
hong kong
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ITALY COUNTRY GUEST OF HONOR AT VINEXPO HONG KONGAn exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines and Spirits showcased in Hong Kong for 3 days of celebrating great flavors: tastings, seminars and inimitable aperitivi
An exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines showcased in Dubaiduring a unique Italian NIght
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JANUARY 2016
ITALIAN CHEFS ABROAD
From a small Sicilian town, Partini-co, to Düsseldorf. Giuseppe Saitta’s story is not only about a geograph-ic leap, but also about two com-pletely different worlds that meet. On March !0, 2016, Palermo and Düsseldorf were declared ‘twin cit-ies’. Behind that agreement, is our protagonist. Step by step he created a miniature empire. Today Saitta, who is also a municipal councilor in Düsseldorf, owns four restaurants.
new locations in 2015, Va Veloce 1 and Va Veloce 2. Quality is high and when the city hosts fairs and conference, many traveling Italians make sure they eat at Giuseppe’s. His customers, Italian and not, lin-ger long into the night uncorking great bottles and enjoying reliable, high-quality food, free of any spe-cial effects.
Giuseppe, what brought you to
Germany?
My father came to Germany in 1965, to work at the Mannesmann
you remember, in 1968 there was a bad earthquake in Sicily. My father came home to get us and the whole family joined him in Germany.
Certainly, language was an obsta-cle at the beginning. I overcame it playing soccer. That was my way of integrating. I played well, and I quickly became one of them.
How did you get interested in
food?
Papà had an accident and couldn’t work in the factory anymore. So suddenly, he had to invent a new job. In front of our house there was a tiny grocery store. We took it over
Saitta’s Story
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
dusseldorfIT BEGAN IN A BASEMENT
JANUARY 2016
13
Saitta’s StoryIT BEGAN IN A BASEMENT
with the bit of savings we had. That was 1975, and it was little more than a basement. We began to sell Ital-ian products. You have no idea the reactions of our customers when they saw us cooking for ourselves during lunch hour. Those aromas must have seemed exotic to them. They stopped by to see what we were eating. That’s how we started our tavola calda, a prepared-foods, take-out place, in 1982.
And after the tavola calda?
We got bigger slowly. We opened
in 1990. The idea was to repro-duce our home-cooking, the recipes we made for ourselves: pasta with tomato sauce, lasagna, eggplant. In 1997 we added Piazza Saitta (Barbarossaplatz), and last year we opened Via Veloce 1 and 2. The idea of these last ones was cook-
and fast. Germans have less time to eat compared to Italians, so we cook simple recipes, to order. In the evening, the places become regu-lar restaurants. The formula is the same as before, with a food coun-ter where you can buy good cheese, cured meats, a bottle of wine. We are a wine bar, restaurant and deli-catessen all in one.
What do the Germans like most
about Italian cucina?
We made a name for ourselves for
not exactly from Piedmont. We work with all types, ranging from
to black ones, to more affordable summer varieties. We realized that baked pasta casseroles aren’t pop-ular, but cooked to order, quality dishes, are. In Düsseldorf, the level of restaurant offerings is very high, and the public is demanding.
Is this an Italian wine moment?
By chance we found ourselves working also as distributors in order to satisfy our own demand but also
the most successful was the explo-sion of Venica&Venica wines, and those from southern Italy, above
Lugana phenomenon. We sell riv-ers of it – inexplicable. Pinot Grigio had a moment, then Chardonnay,
tomorrow.
How big is the Italian commu-
nity in Düsseldorf?
Once, we were the second or third largest group in Düsseldorf. Now, many have gone back to Italy. To-day there are about 7,000 of us, and about 700 Italian restaurants! Many have become citizens, and we’re talking about third-genera-tion Italians. Even I speak German to my daughters at home.
All in all, how is life in Düssel-
dorf? What do you miss?
We live divinely well. It’s a safe
city. If you love sports, there are many opportunities. I love the jog-ging paths that cross the old city, the bridge, the views of the Rhine. There’s a rich cultural life with op-era, theater, six museums. People here love Italy. Perhaps they even neglect their own traditions to dedi-cate themselves to ours. They invite me to dinner and cook pasta with sauce that cooked for 10 hours, like my grandmother made. What do I miss? I’ll be trite, but that’s how it is. Light, sea, sun.
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Lazio’s safe betCesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene ’14 Damiano Ciolli20,000 bottlesex-cellar price: 7.00 euros
Where there’s tomato, pecorino and guan--
sion of Amatriciana, one of those dishes con-stantly on the minds and tables of Romans, is Cesanese di Olevano Romano made by
trattorias in Rome often have this wonder-
is its friendly price, another is the quality of the wine, and a third is its innate capacity
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-age of Lazio’s wines, which at times are too anchored to a search for concentration, too aimed at making deep and richly shaded la-
vineyard, farmed without synthetic products,
WINE OF THE MONTH
APRIL 2016
15
TWITTER dixitJon Thorsen
The horror!!!
Jamie Goode
Prowein reminded me of the size and scope of the world of wine. It’s huge.It reinforced this: we must remain humble in the face of wine
American Housewife
Yes, instead of deep-cleaning your home for company, you may serve really good wine and just dim the lights.
Quartz
Italy wants kids in primary schools to spend one hour a week studying the country’s “wine culture and history.”
Dance Sing Wine
“One of the disadvantages of wine is that it makes a man mistake words for thoughts”. Samuel Johnson
JF Tobias
Is France more likely to see even more great vintages because of climate change? But will it last?
Ken @ alawine
DESIGN
CORKSCREWS
ALESSANDRIO M.
Stefania Annese collaborated
“The soft extractive note of an aged cork being withdrawn has the true sound of a man opening his heart,” wrote 18th century scholar and cler-ic William S. Benwell. In his short
life (1765-1796) he was able to capture the poetry inher-ent in the opening of a precious bottle of wine. Paolo Annoni, a pharmacist and corkscrew-collector, also sees beauty in the ritual and its tools. He exhibits about 500 of his best in the museum on Piazza Castello in Barolo.
-lish inventor Samuel Henshall. He, like many of his coun-trymen, loved the corked glass wine bottles arriving from France, Italy and Portugal but had trouble opening them. The most common tools were crude instruments — “steel worms” — that were variations on musket barrel cleaning tools (gun worms) manufactured by gunsmiths. They had been in use since the middle of the 17th century.
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CORKSCREWS
Today, corkscrews are still indispensable acces-sories for wine lovers. Although other nation-alities are inclined to look for technological masterpieces to open their bottles, Italians prefer instruments curated in design and clas-sic in their form, corkscrews that preserve the magic of the lyrical moment of extrac-tion. Giuseppe Todeschini made Spiral for Artis Tecnologia e Design based in Thiene (Vicenza), a company specialized in the pro-duction of wine accessories. This corkscrew is made with material derived from aeronautical engineering, and is particularly light, fast and easy to use. A Todeschini corkscrew is in the
permanent exhibition of MOMA in New York, and this new one joins what is by now a vast range of
similar objects made with premium materials. His Crick is made to force the spiral to insert itself in the center of the cork without fail. It has only one handle and an original mechanism that allows even one-handed extraction.
are housed in handy aluminum cases. An external struc-ture in lively colors protects the stainless steel ‘worm’, the
screw itself. Another memorable series is Bar&Wine by Alessi, the leading Italian brand of housewares of all sorts, featuring designs by the great-
est names in contemporary artistic production for the home. Alessandro Men-dini, architect, artist, designer, theoretician
and Milanese journal-ist, works in an unmistak-able style. His Anna G., a bot-
tle opener in thermoplastic resin,
has undergone multiple changes over the decades. This version is an ironic
homage to a real woman with a smiling face, and it has become an iconic ob-ject on Italian tables. Alessandro M., the masculine answer to the success of Anna
G., was the outcome of Mendini’s study of form and function. Another charming Mendini design, Parrot, combines humor and practicality.
INFO: www.artisitaly.it
www.morettoitalia.it
www.alessi.com
LIMITED EDITION ANNA G.
SPIRAL
ANNA G.
PARROT
CRICK
APRIL 2016
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BELLONE BIANCO
Polpette
di bollito
boiled beef meatballs
Carciofi alla romana
FRASCATI SUP.
MINERAL WATER
drawings by Chiara Buosi
Tiella col polpo
savory octopus pie
artichokes alla romana
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APRIL 2016
PAIRING DO AS THE LAZIALI DO
Rigatoni
con la coda
Crostata
ricotta e visciole
Costolette di abbacchio
alla scottadito
NERO BUONO DI CORI
MOSCATO DI TERRACINAPASSITO
CESANESE DEL PIGLIO
baby lamb chops
rigatoni with oxtail sauce
ricotta and sour cherry tart
APRIL 2016
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DO AS THE LAZIALI DO
Pagina Amarone-Ripasso-ITA - Gambero.indd 1 04/03/16 10:21
The third edition of “Anteprima Fiere” (Fair Preview), the Gambero Rosso event that tours Italy’s best wine shops with the country’s wineries, both new and well-established,
is over. Top starring roles were played by not-yet-released recent vintages.On the following pages, you can read our tasting notes.
Save them and check them out during the months to come.
EN PRIMEUR TASTINGS
THE EVENT
MARZO 2016
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THE EVENT/THE WINERIES
The WineriesPIEDMONT
Bel Collefraz. Castagni, 56 |Verduno (CN) |tel. 0172470196 |www.belcolle.it
The Bel Colle vineyards are mostly located in the zones of Verduno and La Morra, with some planted around Asti, Roero and Barbaresco.
its production of Pelaverga,
its nebbiolo-based wines. The Inspiration is traditional, but they are also experimenting with more modern solutions.VERDUNO PELAVERGA ’15Clean and airy fragrances:
-mediate ripe red fruit.Soft tannin, pulpy, enjoyable fruit.
BAROLO MONVIGLIERO ’11Balsamic and alcohol-pre-served red fruit sensations. Great character and mouth-
Bricco Maiolicafraz. Ricca |via Bolangino, 7 |Diano d’Alba (CN) |tel. 0173612049 |www.briccomaiolica.it
Beppe Accomo has been -
tate for thirty years. In this time, he has left behind other crops and concentrated every-
offers numerous other labels. BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. VIGNA VIGIA ’13
and toast, with a spicy element that is in the process of being integrated.NEBBIOLO D’ALBA SUP. CUMOT ’13
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is dense but of praiseworthy extraction.
Cantina Clavesanafraz. Madonna della Neve, 19 |Clavesana (CN) |tel. 0173790451 |www.inclavesana.it
In 1959, 32 members signed an agreement to found the Clavesana cooperative, one of the largest for the produc-
Anna Bracco (director) and Giovanni Bracco (president) head the winery. This is the Langhe, where today over 2,000 families of grapegrow-ers have found a vital uni-
Alta Langa, dolcetto is third in importance, and this co-operative turns out to be one of the most competent in its production. DOGLIANI SUP. IL CLOU ’13
fruit, consistent tannins and good length. DOGLIANI SUP. ALLA GIORNATA 587 ’12Complex fruitiness, with in-
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Cantina Sociale di Vinchio Vaglio Serrareg. San Pancrazio, 1 |Vinchio (AT) |tel. 0141950903 |www.vinchio.com
The long-established coop-erative winery, Vinchio Vaglio Serra, today has almost 200 members. It is still one of the most important winegrowers in the Asti zone and even in all of Piedmont. Most of its
many vines are more than 60 years old, are along the hills of the Alto Monferrato. The soil is mostly calcareous and sandy. Production is generous
-tered on Barbera. BARBERA D’ASTI VIGNE VECCHIE 50 ’13Fruity, admirable complexity and acidic support. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. I TRE VESCOVI ’13Powerful, with aromas of
An unusual savory note on
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APRIL 2016
Ceste Franco di Ceste Pier Guido
Govone (CN) |tel. 017358635 |www.cestevini.com
Guido Ceste is helped in his -
ness by his son Franco, who completed his studies at the Istituto Professionale in Ales-sandria (Piedmont). Ceste began to intensify vineyard
land and planted new vine-yards to offer a broader and better choice of wines. Since the 1990s, the winery is also
with numerous labels from the principal denominations of the Langhe.BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. ’13Fresh fruit, notes of sweet spices and tobacco sensa-tions. Good balance and length.LANGHE PINOT NERO CAMPO ALLE FRATE ’14Marasca cherries and aro-matic herb aromas. Soft pal-ate with evident notes of ripe fruit and sweet spices.
Mauro Sebastefraz. Gallo d’Alba |via Garibaldi, 222bis |Alba (CN) |tel. 0173262148 |www.maurosebaste.it
dominant and unforget-table presence among the
Sebaste has built up his own winery in which he uses grapes of his own and from trusted, long-established
Freisa wine for his mother.
above all from his Barolo selections, constantly dis-tinguished by elegant clas-sicism. NEBBIOLO D’ALBA PARIGI ’13Fine sensations of violets and licorice. Intense spicy notes are perfected with bottle-aging. ROERO ARNEIS ’15Citrus fruit and new-mown grass notes: pleasant, linear freshness. An immediately pleasurable white.
Vite Coltevia Bergesia, 6 |Barolo (CN) |tel. 0173564611 |www.vitecolte.it
Vite Colte (Cultivated Vines) is the new name cho-sen by the Terre da Vino winery to present its new production philosophy to
much for us since these la-bels are ones we have been tasting for years, but for Piero Quadrumolo and
change. Vite Colte is the tip of the group (180 wine-growers cultivate about 300 hectares, including the best in the individual zones) that will enter the regime which has as its goal an absolute search for quality. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. LA LUNA E I FALÒ ’13Explosive fruit on a palate that is both fresh and vel-vetyBAROLO PAESI TUOI ’11Clean aromas of raspberry and licorice. Rich, power-ful, but never heavy.
LOMBARDY
Cantina Conte Vistarinofraz. Scorzoletta, 82/84 |Pietra de’ Giorgi (PV) |tel. 038585117 |www.contevistarino.it
19th century, Counts Vista-rino and Gancia decided to plant French clones of pinot nero, having chosen the Scu-ropasso valley as ideal for the production of Metodo Clas-
of these great Piedmontese houses carried on. Today the
family estate (828 hectares, of which 200 are vineyard), and under the leadership of the young Ottavia, aims decid-
-tive place.RÏES ’13Peach and bay leaf, pleas-
The palate is supported by a fresh acidic vein and intense minerality. A long and multi-
RÏES ’14
-
sustained by a good acidic -
for decades, but is already very focused.
APRIL 2016
23
THE EVENT/THE WINERIES
F.lli Giorgifraz. Camponoce, 39a |Canneto Pavese (PV) |tel. 0385262151 |www.giorgi-wines.it
The winery, led by Antonio Giorgi and by his exuberant
up with the times, managing to permit its two souls to co-exist: one is more commer-
qualitative level symbolized by Pinot Frizzante. The oth-er aims higher, and the best grapes are used to obtain premium products, especial-ly Metodo Classico labels.BRUT CL. TOP ZEROThis pinot nero monovarietal spends 80 months on its lees. Its powerful nose offers tones of raspberries and candied citrus fruit, then a resinous note. The mousse is caressing, the palate dense and reactive,
OP PINOT NERO BRUT 1870 ’11Complex and varied aromas
medicinal herbs. Mineral and juicy on the palate.
ALTO ADIGE
Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco via Coste, 50 |Chiusa/Klausen (BZ) |tel.0472847553 |www.cantinavalleisarco.it
As you ascend Valle Isarco, viticulture becomes rarer, the vineyards are smaller, steeper and terraced. In this context, Cantina Produttori
is the smallest cooperative winery in the province, but the commitment and pas-sion of its 130 members,
-ter, supervises the entire pro-duction process. A. A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ARISTOS ’14Nose ranges from white fruit to mountain herbs. Savory, austere palate, enlivened by
A. A. VALLE ISARCO KERNER ARISTOS ’14Fine and elegant, with aro-matic herbs and citrus fruit on the nose. Full, long and wonderfully fresh.
TUSCANY
Camiglianoloc. Camigliano |via d’Ingresso, 2 |Montalcino (SI) |tel. 0577844068 |www.camigliano.it
Located on the western edge of the vast territory of Mon-talcino, Camigliano is a ham-let with an ancient history, set in the low green growth of pristine nature and enjoying a beautiful view of the Alta Maremma and the Colline Metallifere. The Ghezzi fam-
the 1950s, and cultivate about 100 hectares of vineyard. ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’14 The personality of the vin-tage is evident: delicately her-baceous notes of underbrush and red berries. A slim body,
resolved.BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’11Warm and ripe fruit fragranc-es. Agile palate with focused
Campo alla Sugheraloc. Caccia al Piano, 280 |Bolgheri (LI) |tel. 0565766936 |www.campoallasughera.com
Founded at the end of the 1990s by the Knauf group, the winery has a certain his-toric importance, given the extreme youth of its terri-tory. Campo alla Sughera has about 20 hectares of special-ized vineyard, in which the varieties are mainly cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot, petit verdot (for the reds); ver-mentino, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay (for the whites). BOLGHERI SUP. ARNIONE ’10Cabernet sauvignon with small percentages of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, it is a red with a generous, complex bouquet. The body is harmonious and well-bal-anced.BOLGHERI ROSSO ADEO ’12 Iodine notes on the nose, along with interesting spicy tones. Light-hearted, long and
25 7640
42 45 53
VISTO SI STAMPI
CAMIGLIANO
DATA:
Sede Legale e Operativa:Via di Seano, 89/A51030 Catena - Quarrata (PT)Tel. 0573 744436/740059 - Fax 0573 740610
BOZZA DI STAMPA
Cortesemente controllare
con cura, controfirmare
e inviare via mail/fax
per accettazione. Grazie
A
SENSO DI SVOLGIMENTO
B C D
1
SENSO DI STAMPA
2 3 4
ABC
ABC AB
C AB
C
5
SENSO DI STAMPA
6 7 8
ABC
ABC
AB
CAB
C
9
SENSO DI STAMPA
10 11 12
13
SENSO DI STAMPA
14
A) MAX DIAM. ROT. ESTERNO: __________
B) ANIMA INTERNA DEL ROTOLO:
C) LARGHEZZA MAX SUPPORTO: __________
ROTOLI DA: _______________________PZ
A
B
C
COLORI A CAMPIONE
FORMATO:100x100,5mm
2011
270mm
108mm
24
APRIL 2016
Maria Caterina Deivia di Martiena, 35 |Montepulciano (SI) |tel. 0578716878 |www.cantinedei.com
A great passion for viticul-
land in the Montepulciano territory and plant vineyards.
in 1985 and the process was completed in 1989 with the
-ing facilities. At the beginning of the 1990s, Maria Caterina
and acting, decided to move to Montepulciano, where she
begun by her grandfather. NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’12Aromas of plum intertwine with vegetal notes of aro-matic herbs. Pulpy and sub-stantial on the palate, with a
NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’13Eucalyptus, mint, gentian and blueberries. Juicy and
crescendo.
Giannoni Fabbriloc. San Marco in Villa, 2 |Cortona (AR) |tel. 3475883939 |www.giannonifabbri.it
The winery of Marco Gian-noni, president of the Cor-tona consortium, carries on a family tradition begun in the 18th century. Since he
seen to a complete overhaul of the vineyards and a ren-
-vest, is exclusively done by hand, because only human
to intervene on the plant. CORTONA SYRAH AMATO ’12
berries on the nose. Solid
CORTONA VIN SANTO ’06Complex nose, with notes of toast, vanilla, assorted spices and dried fruit. Vel-vety entrance on the palate, broad, dense and wonder-fully generous.
Podere La Regolaloc. San Martino |Riparbella (PI) |tel. 0586698145 |www.laregola.com
The Nuti family owns this winery, which rises where an Etruscan village was once lo-cated, a site chosen for its fertil-ity and climate. It was suitable
-ing wine, as witnessed by the numerous antique amphorae found in the zone. Luca Nuti, after studying agriculture, pro-moted the development of the family estate, which already
-
and promotional sector. SPUMANTE BRUT M. CL.Gros manseng, with a little chardonnay: citrus fruit tones, a slight vegetal note, linear and fresh. LA REGOLA ’11Cabernet franc with some merlot and petit verdot; bal-
crisp tannins and a tasty acidic
Poggio Trevvalleloc. Arcille |Campagnatico (GR) |tel. 0564998142 |www.poggiotrevvalle.it
Bernardo and Umberto Valle chose the Maremma to express their passion for wine at the end of the 1990s. They immediately practiced organic agriculture, con-vinced of the correctness of the method to obtain ex-cellent results. Most of the vineyards are dedicated to sangiovese, but some are also planted with international varieties. MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’14Lively notes of cherries and
-
pleasurable.MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’15Full and naturally sweet with fruit, currants, cherry, and a slight peppery note. The pal-ate is already pleasant, Excel-lent acidic contrast, easy-to-
APRIL 2016
25
201 2
THE EVENT/THE WINERIES
San Gervasioloc. San Gervasio |via Palaiese |Palaia (PI) |tel. 0587483360 |www.sangervasio.com
Luca Tommasini carried out a complete transformation of the family estate, starting in the mid-1990s. What had been a classic grapegrow-ing property was converted to high-quality production.
bought new hectares of land and planted avant-garde vine-yards, regrafting old vines and
-lution of the winery. A SIRIO ’09Blend of sangiovese and cab-ernet sauvignon. Excellent structure, aromas of red ber-
-vor.A SIRIO ’10Ripe cherry, blond tobacco and earthy notes. Evolved pro-
palate. Tannin still evident.
LAZIO
Casale del Giglioloc. Le Ferriere |s.da Cisterna-Nettuno km 13 | Latina |tel. 0692902530 |www.casaledelgiglio.it
The purchase of a long-established winery on the island of Ponza to vinify biancolella from the sur-rounding vineyards, along with decades-old vine-yards of bellone in the best zones of Anzio confirmed the new interest of Anto-nio Santarelli and enolo-gist Paolo Tiefenthaler in indigenous varieties. Their results are excellent. TEMPRANIJO ’14Red with concentrated aro-mas of cherries and plum. Powerful and extracted.ANTINOO ’14Blend of viognier and chardonnay offering notes of yellow fruit and sweet
development, pleasant
elderberry.
Omina Romanavia Fontana Parata, 75 |Velletri (RM) |tel. 0696430193 |www.ominaromana.com
In 2004, German entre-preneur Anton F. Borner decided to invest in an 80-hectare estate in Vel-
Rome. Claudio Gori and agronomist Paula Pacheco
-nous and international red grapes, along with seven varieties of white grapes, turning out a series of good quality wines. BELLONE BRUT ’13Monovarietal bellone; yel-low peach and bread crust. Fragrant, fresh palate.DIANA MEMORENSIS I ’12Bordeaux blend, with bell pepper and dried spices on the nose. Clean, fresh pal-ate where soft tannins con-fer character.
MARCHE
Santa Barbarab.go Mazzini, 35 |Barbara (AN) |tel. 0719674249 |www.vinisantabarbara.it
Stefano Antonucci always -
cade of experience, his abil-
mood, and his untiring com-mercial dynamism are pow-erful weapons on the com-munication front, where his
he has managed to release a range of wines that in-clude the principal regional denominations and all their possible typologies.VERDICCHIO STEFANO ANTONUCCI CL SUP. ’14Up-front citrus fruit, fresh notes of anise, compact, in-tense, savory character and great elegance. Compared to other editions, it is already very expressive, with a slim-mer and more reactive body.ROSSO PICENO IL MASCHIO DA MONTE ’13Montepulciano; com-pact, fragrant fruit with
26
APRIL 2016
T I N T I L I A D E L M O L I S E / D E N O M I N A Z I O N E D I O R I G I N E P R O T E T T A
MACCHIAROSSA
MOLISE
Claudio Cipressic.da Montagna, 5b |San Felice del Molise (CB) |tel. 0874874535 |www.cantinecipressi.it
A winery that has focused on rediscovering tintilia, the historic indigenous red of the Molise region, man-ages its land with artisanal
Sixteen hectares of organic vineyard produce the excel-lent raw material that Clau-dio Cipressi interprets in a personal style that is also respectful of tradition.MOLISE TINTILIA MACCHIAROSSA ’11Balsamic and spicy notes on the nose; a palate that is sur-
-cate tannins.MOLISE TINTILIA ROSATO COLLEQUINTO ’15Rose, violets, then cur-rants and a light sensation of iron on the nose. In the
enlivened by a tannic coun-terpoint that lends charac-ter and contrast. A charm-ing rosé.
Tenimenti Griecoc.da Difensola |Portocannone (CB) |tel. 0875590032 |www.tenimentigrieco.it
A winery that has a reputa-tion for very carefully made and interesting wines. Larino is in the heart of the Molisano hills, facing the Adriatic Sea. Grieco
also has an agriturismo and a teaching farm, attract-ing cultural tourism that is helpful for the territory. A committed and passionate
-sions of tintilia-based wine, the indigenous variety of Molise.MOLISE TINTILIA ’14Ripe fruit on the nose, good freshness and energy on the palate.MOLISE TINTILIA 200 METRI ’15Nose still developing; the palate has a savory start and progresses calmly.
CAMPANIA
Sanpaolo - Magistravini di Claudio Quartac.da San Paolo |Torrioni (AV) |tel. 0832704398 |www.magistravini.it
Claudio Quarta and his daughter Alessandra run one of the most dynamic and in-teresting wine businesses in southern Italy. Of their three wineries, two are in Puglia, in Salento, and one is in Ir-pinia in Atripalda, half way between Tufo and the village of Torrioni. Their constant research is admirable, aim-ing to improve all aspects of sustainability, experimenting by means of collaborations with universities and avant-garde studies of biodiversity. GRECO DI TUFO CLAUDIO QUARTA ’13Peach, citron and grape-fruit plus tones of medici-nal herbs. Excellent savory depth. PRIMITIVO ORO DI EMÉRA ’12Rich, generous fruity fra-grances of pomegranate and red plum. Fresh, pleasant palate.
Tenuta Cavalier Pepevia Santa Vara |Sant’Angelo all’Esca (AV) |tel. 082773766 |www.tenutapepe.it
-ing from the hill, rows of vines outline a picturesque
-sphere of France. The propri-etor is Angelo Pepe, a famous restaurateur in Belgium, who was named a Cavaliere della Repubblica in Italy, a title
Italian food culture abroad. Since 2005, his enologist daughter Milena has been at his side in this winery. TAURASI LA LOGGIA DEL CAVALIERE RIS. ’09
and juniper berries; well-ar-ticulated, long and deep on the palate.FIANO DI AVELLINO BRANCATO ’14Alternates tones of yellow peach, tropical fruit and
Still nervous and not completely resolved.
APRIL 2016
27
THE EVENT/THE WINERIES
BASILICATA
Martinovia La Vista, 2a |Rionero in Vulture (PZ) |tel. 0972721422 |www.martinovini.com
The young Carolin Martino
Armando at the helm of this long-established winery, and divides her time between the family business and the Con-
-ture, which she heads. Marti-no today has a super-modern winery in Rionero and vine-yards in the best positions in the zone, such as the Bel Pog-gio estate in Ginestra. The grapes from their own prop-erty cover about one-third
The rest are purchased. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE PRETORIANO ’10Elegance, structure and bal-
-nal herbs. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BEL POGGIO ’10Cherry and marasca cherry:
licorice tones.
PUGLIA
Cantine San Marzanovia Regina Margherita, 149 |San Marzano di San Giuseppe (TA) |tel.0999576100 |www.cantinesanmarzano.com
The many labels (23, ar-ticulated in different lines) produced by this coopera-tive winery come from over 1,200 contributing members followed all year by the win-ery staff. It is one of the most important winegrowing busi-nesses in all of Salento. Most of the vineyards are located in the municipalities of San Marzano, Sava and Francav-illa Fontana.PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA SESSANTANNI ’12Great concentration of ripe
earthy notes. The palate is en-ergetic and substantial, dense and well-contrasted by sapid-ity and elegant tannins.ESTELLA MOSCATO ’15
of yellow fruit and almond. Fresh and enjoyable on the palate.
Paolo Leovia Tuturano, 21 |San Donaci (BR) |tel. 0831635073 |www.paololeo.it
The entire Leo family, grape-growers for four generations,
-ning of this winery, founded in 1989. The vineyards lie principally on tufaceous and calcareous soil in the munici-
-cal trellis plantings and 40-year old alberello vineyards. The principal varieties are the classic indigenous ones of Salento: negroamaro, malva-sia nera di Lecce, malvasia bi-anca, and primitivo, as well as
TRIADE ROSSO ’13Blend of primitivo, negroa-maro and nero di troia, it presents notes of fruit and
by excessive alcoholic heat.SALICE SALENTINO NERIMATTI RIS. ’10
and dried aromatic herbs. Rich palate with still-tight tannin and good substance.
Risveglio Agricoloc.da Torre Mozza |Brindisi |tel. 0831519948 |www.cantinerisveglio.it
Risveglio Agricolo is one -
tive wineries. It is headed by Giovanni Nardelli, an agronomist with a passion for enology. Founded in 1958 by a group of Brindisi grapegrowers, today it is an icon of viticulture for Pug-liese wine fans, not only in the zone itself, but in all of Italy. Labels of this coop-erative have even reached
-ders, and these bottles also appear on Swiss and Ger-man tables.72100 ’13
notes. Negroamaro with
-bone and depth.BRINDISI ROSSO SIMPOSIO RIS. ’10Negroamaro and malvasia; pleasant, displaying sweet tones with notes of cherry and chocolate.
L. 0
00-0
0
PRODOTTO IN ITALIA
13,50% Vol750 ml
CONTIENE SOLFITI - CONTAINS SULPHITES - ENTHÄLT SULFITE
BEL POGGIOAGLIANICO DEL VULTURE
DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE PROTETTA
Ottenuto dalla vinificazione in purezza di uve
Aglianico dell’area del Vulture, offre profumi
intensi e speziati, una bocca morbida, calda e
vellutata frutto di un sapiente affinamento in
rovere francese. Accompagna ottimamente
arrosti, selvaggina e formaggi dal gusto forte.
Stappare qualche ora prima di servire a 18-20 °C.
Vinificato e imbottigliato da
Casa vinicola Armando Martino s.r.l.
Rionero in Vulture (PZ) ITALIA
+39 0972 72 14 22 - www.martinovini.com
28
APRIL 2016
VERMENTINO DI GALLURA DOCG
RENADORO
DESCRIZIONE:
E’ un vino molto caratteristico, equilibrato
e ben strutturato. Il terreno, la posizione
geografica e la bassa resa di uva, gli
conferiscono la sua tipicità inconfondibile. Ha riflessi verdognoli ed è morbido.
Conservare a 15/18° C, và servito a
8/10°C.
Provenienza: Gallura, Sardegna Vinificazione: In bianco con pressatura
soffice e fermentazione a 18 ° C in
contenitori di acciaio inox Gradazione:
13% Vol. Acidità totale: 5,2 g/l Zuccheri: 3,0 g/l
Capacità-Capacity 0,75 lt Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet 95
Unità-Cassa-Unit 6 Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer 19
Peso Cassa-Weight Casse 7,8 kg Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet 5
Dimensione Cassa-Case Dimension
Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height 170 cm
Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet EPAL
Base-Length 25 cm Barcode
Profondità-Width 16,5 cm
Altezza-Height 30cm
SICILY
Tenuta Coste Ghirlanda loc. Piana di Ghirlanda |Pantelleria (TP) |tel. 3388244649 |www.costeghirlanda.it
Coste Ghirlanda shows the best of Pantelleria by wel-coming guests and serving excellent food and wine. This young winery in the center of the island is marvelously promising. Two estates grow zibibbo grapes: Montagnole, in a splendid nature reserve, where the vineyards face Sic-ily, and Nikà, where the day ends with beautiful sunsets towards the coast of Tunisia.SILENZIO ’13From zibibbo grapes, the wine displays elegant notes of sage and orange blossom on the nose. Dynamic palate.PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA ALCOVA ’12Wonderfully complex nose. Sunny fruit, sweet, and very long on the palate.
SARDINIA
Vigneti Zanattavia Spirito Santo |Olbia |tel. 3926947269 |www.vignetizanatta.it
The Zanatta family (in the photo, Marco, son of Bruno Zanatta) has been making premium wines in Sardinia for a long time. To guarantee quality, careful attention to production methods is key: the grapes come from the estate’s own vineyards, har-vested when fully ripe, trans-ported to their own cellars and soft-pressed. The must is then fermented at controlled temperatures.CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA SALANA ’14Myrtle and wild berry aro-mas, slightly spicy, ready to drink now..VERMENTINO DI GALLURA RENADORO ’15Aromatic herbs and yel-low fruit. Palate played on a sweet/bitter contrast.
CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC
SALANA
Di colore granato vivace, ha profumo
intenso, persistente, ampio ed etereo. Il
Cannonau di Sardegna sopporta lunghi
invecchiamenti. Va conservato in una
cantina fresca, a temperatura costante e
buia. Ideale con piatti molto strutturati quali
le carni rosse, la selvaggina da penna e da
pelo, ottimo anche con formaggio pecorino.
Servire ad una temperatura di circa 18-20°C.
Provenienza: Nord Sardegna
Vinificazione: Criomacerazione per 2 giorni e
successiva macerazione tradizionale per 8-10
g i o rn i i n con ten i to r i i nox ad una
temperatura di 24-26° C.
Gradazione: 13,5% Vol.
Acidità totale: 4,6 g/l
Zuccheri: 2,0 g/l
Capacità-Capacity 0,75 lt Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet 95
Unità-Cassa-Unit 6 Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer 19
Peso Cassa-Weight Casse 7,8 kg Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet 5
Dimensione Cassa-Case Dimension
Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height 170 cm
Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet EPAL
Base-Length 25 cm Barcode
Profondità-Width 16,5 cm
Altezza-Height 30cm
A GUIDE TO THE LEADING850 COMPANIES
PRODUCING FOODSTUFFS IN ITALY
An indispensable tool for foodiesbut even more so for industry insiders
promoting the best of Made-in-Italy worldwide
www.gamberorosso.it
ANTEPRIME
ANTEPRIMEAmaroneand Brunello
APRIL 2016
31
TUSCAN ANTEPRIME
It isn’t easy to choose what to highlight in a zone of well-known fame and talent, and with 127 wineries presenting their 2010 reserve wines and their 2011 Brunello labels. The tasting was par-ticularly important because this edition, number
-nition of the protected territorial denomination (the DOC) of Brunello di Montalcino. Over all, the vintage years proved to be valid. The tast-ings took place, as they have for some years, in the splendid Cloister Museo di Montalcino. The wines in the tasting were: Brunello di Montalci-no 2011, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010, Rosso di Montalcino 2014 and 2013, Moscadello di Montalcino and various Sant’Antimo labels. We’ll tell you about those that struck us the most.
Brunello, 2010 and 2011 vintageson the 50th anniversary of the DOC
by Paolo De Cristofaro and Gianni Fabrizio
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011Armilla | www.armillawine.comThis little winery belonging to Silverio Marchetti grew, step by step, after its
wife, daughters and grandchildren car-ry on his work. Two hectares of vine-yard, planted in the Tavernelle zone in
with a clean, wonderful note of red berries intertwined with hints of sweet tobacco. Tight tannins are balanced by soft, pulpy fruit. A promising discovery.
Barbi | www.fattoriadeibarbi.it
in a zone that is so frenetically concerned about international markets. An old style
wine, in the best sense of the term, it
incense and a touch of plum that reminds us of the hot vintage year. The palate is
-tained by a vigorous tannin structure to a
Capanna | www.capannamontalcino.comAfter receiving rave reviews from wine
unanimously appreciated Patrizio Cen-
no intention of resting on its laurels. In
tobacco and licorice are elements in a
an assertive tannic structure. A wine of great depth and length that should age for a long time in the cellar.
Fanti | www.tenutafanti.it
his daughter Elisa, who has been full time at the winery since 2007, represents
32
APRIL 2016
an archetype of the sangiovese grown in the southeastern part of the Montalcino
has ripe aromas of cherry and plum with hints of sweet spices and tobacco. In the mouth, a dense tannic texture and solid, correct acidity is balanced by the envel-oping softness of alcohol that caresses the palate.
Il Marroneto | www.ilmarroneto.com
-nized the magic that often accompanies
-den treasure of the northern slope of Montalcino,” as described by revered wine writer, Luigi Veronelli. The Ma-donna delle Grazie cru is by now con-sidered the star of the denomination, but in the tastings of 2011, in this phase
-gamot, spices, an edgy tannic charge, but with savory sweetness dictating the
ery today belongs to the Illy family and
done it again with Vigna Loreto 2011, a
stony, thermal tones deepening luxuri-ant fruity aromas. If you must look for a fault, it could be the slightly less dense
unquestionable.
Canalicchio – Franco Pacenti | www.canalicchiofrancopacenti.itIn a steamy vintage year like 2011, we
the northern slope of Montalcino. Not at all. Among the exceptions, is this one
-listically it is very recognizable for its un-usual dialogue between youthful fruity tones (pomegranate and mandarin) and
-
-sion.
Piancornello | www.lacortedeiventi.it
His vineyards are planted on the red soil of the southernmost part of the Mon-talcino municipality, between Castel-
an exposure towards Orcia and Monte Amiata. The wines have generous fra-grances of plum jam and medicinal herbs, austere tannins and, above all, a striking savory vein.
Pieri Agostina | www.pieriagostina.itAgostina Pieri, with the help of her sons,
from the start. In the most recent releas-es, however, the wines grew in harmony
vineyards in Piancornello, stands out for the natural freshness of its nose (cherry, violets, tobacco) and for the amazing dy-
Le Chiuse | www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it
but also multi-faceted and vital, a san-giovese that above all reveals the inter-pretative know-how of Simonetta Val-iani, Niccolò and Lorenzo Magnelli. A triumph of red fruit, a saline backdrop, hints of berries and resin, a touch of black olive, it joins an evident Mediter-ranean temperament with a rigorous,
now, the depth of the super version.
Le Potazzine | www.lepotazzine.itJoyous, slender, empathetic, the 2011
the hot and dry vintage year, more and more common in Montalcino recently.
generous fruit and the clarity of the bal-samic and medicinal herb shading are evident, even more in the foreground on
marked by a moderate yet slightly unbal-anced tannic structure.
Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino V.V. | www.leragnaie.comAnother masterful release from Le Rag-
2011 bottles. Among them, the complex
both for its aromatic tones (wild straw-berry, oriental spices, woodsy essences), and for the long lines and penetrating
-sial vintage year is evident in the brusque
the wine is decidedly a success.
Mastrojanni | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto | www.mastrojanni.comMastrojanni has gotten us accustomed once more to a standard that is simply impressive. The long-established win-
APRIL 2016
33
W E M O V E P R E C I O U S C O M M O D I T I E S : Y O U R S .
TUSCAN ANTEPRIME
age altitude of 450 meters, and to its
the Gloder family expresses the most
Montalcino territory. On a base of ripe cherry, complex hints of sweet spices and tobacco emerge, along with the sweetness of tannins and underlying, measured acidity. This is a harmonious
Poggio di Sotto | www.collemassari.itA reading of the vintage year in full Poggio di Sotto style is evident from the
-berry jelly, dried violets, ginseng, me-
-fully reappears in the intense and at the same time rigorous palate. Sweet fruit, tonic, refreshing, with only large-grain
a version worth keeping an eye on.
Sanlorenzo | Brunello di Montalcino Bramante 2011 | sanlorenzomontalcino.it
--
Montalcino-esque, with the austere and Mediterranean accents of the southwestern area where it originates.
-terranean brush and burned wood, its
a caressing palate at the start and a
seems, as usual, one of the wines that is lagging in its evolution, but also one of the most promising.
Vasco Sassetti | Brunello di Montalcino 2011
-setti family has grown sangiovese vine-yards since the beginning of the 20th century, but with Vasco Sassetti, the winery took a marked and irreversible turn towards top quality wines sold by the bottle. With the 2011 vintage, the
Pietroso | www.pietroso.itSince 1995, when Gianni Pignattai in-herited the family winery, production has been limited only to Rosso and
three vineyards with different altitudes and microclimates, and from grapes worked in a straightforward manner,
-pression of the territory. The 2011 is full of personality, with its complex aromas of cherry, licorice and damp soil on the nose and its impressive
-nins on the palate.
Poggio Antico | Brunello di Montalcino Altero | www.poggioantico.com
-ing on stony, calcareous soil at an aver-
fruity aromas take on a tone of cherry marmalade, and the alcohol, less dis-creet than usual, emphasizes the soft-
-come savory note arrives to balance
Sesti | www.sestiwine.comThe Castello di Argiano lies in the most southwestern part of the Mon-talcino municipality, where roe deer and wild boars are more common than human beings. The Sesti family has gotten us used to excellent reviews of its wine. After a somewhat open be-ginning, where medicinal herbs from
Juicy fullness, docile tannins and sa-pidity are the leitmotiv of the tasting.
Talenti | www.talentimontalcino.it-
ery, but Riccardo Talenti seems to have moved into a new dimension
-
the most enthralling and satisfying in
complex, but almost whispered in its stately aromatic pace. It changes gear on the palate into a sweet and saline, continuous, elegant mouthful. The tannin is severe, but drying only for
and mulberry.
Uccelliera | www.uccelliera-montalcino.it
controversial. Either you love them and accept their stylistic license, or their decisive, assertive character leaves you perplexed. The vineyards
great heat of the subzone. On the nose, aromas of tobacco, plum and co-coa have a southern accent. The wine has impressive structure, with tannins that are still rough but dense and pro-gressive.
APRIL 2016
35
TUSCAN ANTEPRIME
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010Le Chiuse di Sotto - Gianni Brunelli | www.giannibrunelli.it
-use di Sotto, like many others, is the product of a blend of grapes. Maria Laura Vacca, just as her husband and
did, found the secret of harmony by blending the sangiovese from Poderno-vone (350 meters above sea level, facing Monte Amiata) with that from Chiuse
studied power under an aromatic fruity
Canalicchio di Sopra | www.canalicchiodisopra.com
for more maturity and power, the one from Canalicchio di Sopra is regularly notable for its original character. The
illuminates its double soul, rigorous bit-ing and tasting tannin, joyfully juicy, cit-rusy fruit, almost salty.
Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganelli Ris. 2010 | www.tenutailpoggione.it
the southern slope of Montalcino, Vi-gna Paganelli Riserva 2010 from Il Pog-
that was cool overall conferred fruity integrity and a certain aromatic ampli-tude, with balsamic, spicy, and medici-nal herb scents. The usual tannic den-sity is present, but the texture is pulpy and tight, not drying, and allows the savory tonic tone to last for the entire mouthful.
La Fortuna | www.tenutalafortuna.itA few years ago, the Zannoni family celebrated the hundredth anniversary
northeast of the Montalcino center. Over the years, they added vineyards
the present-day 18 hectares. A deep
both charm and depth thanks to a com-pact and vigorous palate. It is probably worth the trouble to wait for it for an-
life is a sure thing.
Caprili | www.caprili.it-
mei family is one of the few in Montalci-
Riserva. A new example appears with the 2010. It starts off slightly reduced
just-gathered currants and blackberries, incense, wax, plowed soil aromas. The palate also is typical of Montalcino to
needs time to soften and harmonize the dense tannin.
Fattoi | www.fattoi.it-
very little. It is certainly the interpreta-tion that best embodies the concept of
without losing in precision and balance. Iodine, earth, roots, and a vital nose that
VENDEMMIA 2011UNCORK WITHOUT CONCERNA good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto
and trade operators on the occasion of Benvenuto Brunello – Edition
summer luminous and normal, without excesses. But in mid-August there was a long stretch of humid heat, high temperatures, little ther-mal excursion and frequent scirocco winds. The year’s climate is per-ceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush.
noticeable on the development of the palate, marked by sensations of drying, even dehydration. These factors are due to a tannic weave that
But what is lacking in harmony and depth is well-compensated for, in -
vorful structure that works well with a wide range of pairings. It is a vintage year that the wine shop owners, restaurants and wine bar man-agers will like, a Brunello ideal for drinking by the glass, and probably worth enjoying in its youthful phase, or little more.
36
APRIL 2016
TUSCAN ANTEPRIME
knowledge of their own territory al-lows the Zannoni to offer a few bottles
the best years. On the nose it reveals a contrast between fruity clarity and spicy sweetness, while on the palate, fresh
-tribute to shaping its character.
Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2010 | www.lisini.comToday the grandchildren of that ex-traordinary Montalcino personality Elina Lisini, manage this historic win-ery, located in the southern part of the municipality. The family has the good fortune to own, among the over 20 hect-ares of sangiovese vineyard, some of the oldest vines in the DOC, dating back to the 1930s and 1940s. Vigna Ugolaia is one. The 2010 offers all the warmth of its origin, with opulent fruity aromas re-freshed by notes of tobacco, mint and damp soil. On the palate, extraordinary tactile fullness is balanced by tannins and acidity.
Podere Le Ripi | Brunello di Montalcino Lupi e Sirene Ris. | www.podereleripi.it
coffee entrepreneurs, has owned this
-terpreted his work courageously, plant-ing vineyards at stunning densities and cultivating them according to natural and biodynamic principals. After 48 months of aging in large oak casks, the resulting wine is simply extraordinary. In a nose of great personality, the fruity character marries darker aromas of lic-orice and medicinal herbs. The mouth
-vory and long.
Tenuta di Sesta | www.tenutadisesta.itThe light, progressive style of the
Sesta won us over immediately. The nose is decidedly spring-like, with petals, berries both red and black, almost like
a white wine, and with earthy and bal--
ness and a sense of proportions are also respected on the palate, sustained by vertical character and by saline energy, more than by volume.
Solaria | Brunello di Montalcino 123 Ris. | www.solariacencioni.com The winery was founded in the 1950s thanks to Giuseppe Cencioni, but the aim of producing quality wines came in 1989 with his granddaughter, Patrizia. The wines produced come from ten hectares of vineyard on a plateau about 300 meters above sea level in the south-east zone of Montalcino. The wine has a modern, but not too modern style, with an eye always to tradition as well. In the 2010 Riserva, notes of red fruit and licorice, enriched by sensations of leather on the nose. The mouth is deep and juicy, with a stern tannic texture
RISERVA 2010GREAT EXPECTATIONS, SOME DISAPPOINTMENTS
-ing. Expectations were legitimately high, considering the brilliant performances of many of the regular versions of the year, described enthusiastically in the 2016 edition of Vini d’Italia. It may seem a con-tradiction, but it’s not. The stylistic limitations come forward in an evident way, more than the elements of the vintage year. For too long,
as an ‘important wine’, but basically in a quantitative key. Therefore, more mature fruit, more power, more extractive, the contribution of
drier, more than austere, lacking energy and drinkability, don’t add much to the respective base wines, physiological exceptions aside. Moreover, it is right and normal to take into account the prestige and
-
especially by Anglo-Saxon wine critics. Brunello is a globally famous brand. The cost of land, of grapes and bulk wines explain it better than any logical reconstruction can. This is also why we expect a fur-ther leap in quality in terms of interpretative sensibility for the more ambitious types, which would be, at least in theory, also those with the deepest roots in tradition.
38
APRIL 2016
CONTRADA CIPARSIA
CASTROVILLARI (CS)
CALABRIA
www.tenuteferrocinto.it
vini del pollino
VENETO ANTEPRIME
2012 was a complicated year, up-hill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In Valpolicella, the spring was fairly damp, while between June and August there were four heat waves, with peak temperatures even above those of the dread-ful 2003, along with major water stress. Precipitation was down 35% compared to normal lev-els. Grapegrowers were able to breathe freely only at the end of the summer, thanks to cooler, more linear weather. We blind-tasted all 77 Amarone 2012 labels at the Anteprima (preview) orga-nized by the local Consorzio. Six-ty percent were samples from the barrel (see below, indicated as da
botte). Missing were the labels from the Famiglie dell’Amarone d’arte, which don’t belong to the Consorzio. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and ex-pressive wines, in some cases al-ready low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might ex-pect. As a result, sometimes the sugar component of the vintage was accentuated, but there was no shortage of seductive wines with full, ripe fruit. All in all, the Amarone vintage year makes itself felt and seems to express
-erations: more than ever the vineyards on the upper slopes are markedly different and the selections of the so-called base very often achieved much higher
Amarone. 2012, a vintage ready to drink
Viviani | Amarone della VapolicellaClassico 2012 (da botte) | www.cantinaviviani.comSeductive and well-articulated scents that range from ground coffee to herbs, along with fragrant, ripe, pulpy fruit. The palate proves to be taut, agile, very natural in its expression,
off very well, prolonged by a long re-turn of Asian spices. Elegant and very pleasant.
Ca’ dei Frati | Amarone della Valpolicella 2012 (da botte) | www.cadeifrati.itDark, dense and compact wine. Tones of black pepper, bitter cocoa and underbrush lead into a densely rich but never weak palate, enlivened by rhythmic and well-paced taste
mint and pencil lead. The balance of all the components is praiseworthy.
Monte Zovo – Cottini | Amarone della Valpolicella
Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) |
www.paolocottini.itOne of the most interesting surprises. A wine of praise-worthy elegance, with a
-ness, ranging from blond tobacco to freshly-ground pepper, a measured bal-
well-calibrated sweet fruiti-ness. A savory tone is clear
and pronounced, the tasting path incisive and satisfying. The
Corte San Benedetto | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012 (da botte) | www.cortesanbenedetto.itLess evolved compared to the other samples tasted, but with notable ten-
is warm and enveloping, while the palate changes gear with decisive,
and bitter cocoa.
Corte Rugolin | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) | www.corterugolin.it
about 350 meters above sea level. The wine seems like the child of another
acidic contrast, certainly not yet re-solved, but with notable depth of
a truly interesting evolution in the bottle.
40
APRIL 2016
Sartori | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Reius 2012 | www.sartorinet.comGood basic harmony in this wine that combines a dark, dense and delicious fruity timbre with well-calibrated extraction in oak. Tones of licorice and pencil lead into a creamy, agile palate and a
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantina | Amarone della Valpolicella Famiglia Pasqua 2012 | www.pasqua.it
and a fairly clear smoky note, which little by little leave space for ripe black fruit tones and sensa-tions of orange peel. The palate has a different pace and an excellent savory tone, fruit that is
aromatic length.
Cantina Valpantena Verona | Amarone della Valpolicella Torre del Falasco 2012 | www.cantinavalpantena.itAn immediate and very pleasant Amarone. Opens on notes of oriental spices, tobacco and alcohol-preserved cherries, enlivened by a pal-ate that is already well-resolved and dynamic, with ripe and truly pleasurable fruit and a cre-
less than 30 euros in wine shops.
Cantina Valpolicella Negrar | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti 2012 | www.cantinanegrar.it
-vor balance. It opens on aromas of coffee, bitter cocoa and warm, enveloping notes of currants. The mouth is rich and pulpy, lively, with an in-triguing spicy undertone, sensations of thyme and sweet tannins.
Corte Sant’Alda | Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui 2014 | www.cortesantalda.itDrink slightly chilled. The color is pale and in-viting. Pure and clear fragrances of cherries,
Delicious and spontaneous in the mouth, it has a
-utes. During the Amarone presentation dinner for journalists, it was by far the wine most reached for.
APRIL 2016
41
TRAVEL
The chef, who has been the symbol of Verona’s
hospitality for twenty-five years, tells about the many
culinary sites he createdin the city he returned to a
little over a year ago,to realize his dream
by Maurizio Berteraphotos by Aromi Creativi
Perbellini talks abouthis favorite places
VERONA LA MIA CASA
Perbellini talks abouthis favorite places
APRIL 2016
43
TRAVEL
From Castel San Pietro – “Be sure you get there on foot, by the staircase to the side of the Teatro Romano” – the view over the city of Romeo and Ju-
liet is spectacular, and especially so on a winter day when the sun is re-
Perbellini, symbol and idol of Ve-
went to my places in the city and
hoped for the success of Casa Per-
in his gourmet jewel box in Piazza San Zeno, local food and wine fans,
the other hand, to the chef ’s dis-may, tourists are beginning to disap-
“We had the most elegant tourism -
think it was an error to aim for mass -
lems with hotels, although the overall quality of restaurants is better than
least a dozen excellent places, more than Mantua, Brescia or Vicenza, for
Perbellini has been a star in Verona
unmissable place) he opened San
launched a revolution in Verona on
of traditional cucina in Verona and
young adventure about it, the plea-sure of doing things together with people you like, who are partners at the start or who become so dur-ing the work and at the end, they
not everyone is suited to opening a
network of places that are always in-teresting, curated in every detail, and
-ents that go to more than one in the same week, and then to Casa Perbel-
sense, having different places stimu-
a while, they want to see Piazza San
The birth of the new concept led to another original idea, a mini-hotel
called Cinque, for the number of its -
dent access, since there’s no recep-
44
APRIL 2016
of the architect who did our last
to be able to offer hospitality to those who were visiting from far away, he came up with this bright idea, restor-
like it because the rooms have an in-
peculiarity of this street hotel is the Tarantino-inspired naming of the
-
de Cope (the two of cups, a tarot card), a pizzeria that has had every table full for over a decade, with
“We were thinking about real Nea-
good pizza was just beginning to be
which is truly Neapolitan, the moz-zarella and tomatoes used are all
FO
TO
ME
RL
O
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from Campania, and the special piz-
Cope is the beer selection – about twenty artisanal brands, selected by
next door is Tapasotto, a place that’s not easily categorized, but that wins
like a cicchetteria veneziana (a snack and wine bar), a little like a tapas bar, and a little like a osteria, since the classic little plates can be followed by a more
of sharing delicious dishes, drinking
New York while we were launching
-
a dynamic pair, chef Federico Zonta
immediately suggest the sea, but all Veronesi consider it a must for an all-
best restaurant in town with superior
want to compete, but to offer seafood -
thing depends on the availability in the market, with appealing ideas like
more famous, and not only in Ve-
the ideal formula, and you have to
GIANCARLO’S CHOICESWhat can you ask a chef who has everything of his own what he thinks about someone else’s food and wine in his city? We tried anyway, and we did get answers. “Right in front of Lo-canda 4 Cuochi is Osteria La Mandorla, a big wine bar where you can drink until late into the night. For breakfast, a look at the newspa-pers and a chat, I go to Urban Café, also in Via Mario Alberto. Another nice place is the CAFÉ CARDUCCI in the heart of Veronetta (www.cafecarducci.it) which is great for an aperitif or for a cheese platter to have with one of the many wines in their cellar. I like their retro atmosphere, which reminds me of Paris. For gelato, I would choose NIQU in Borgo Roma (www.niqugelateria.it) and L’ARTE DEL GE-LATO in via Leoni. Outside the city, I’ve al-ways liked the TRATTORIA ALLA RUOTA in Negrar (www.trattoriaallaruota.it), in wine country, with its menu and lovely outdoor space. In Roverchiara, I adore LE 4 CIACOLE, an inn that has as its slogan ‘magnar, bear e dormir”, eat, drink and sleep! It offers many niche products and has a great wine cellar (www.le4ciacole.it). Another place to visit, in San Giovanni Lupatoto, is CAPRINI BOTTEGA & CUCINA (www.icaprini.it. They have a hun-dred different kinds of cheese and thirty types of cured meats.”
AL CAPITAN, CAPUN MAGRO, SEAFOOD MEDLEY
46
APRIL 2016
Family traditionssince 5 generations
Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it
TRAVEL
-ing all my life, that appeared at the
example of how to serve good dishes (“they are reinterpretations of cucina italiana in a contemporary key”, says Perbellini) in a pleasant ambience, where the brigade, let by Moreno
contributes above-average enthusi-
which eliminates the expensive cuts -
ros, and there’s even a small tasting
son and grandson of a family that wrote the history of Veneto’s pastry-making, would be having special
more a chef than a pastry cook,”
-
supplying the other restaurants, but
(rice tarts) are unmatched in Vero-na, but our little pastries, brioches
of Perbellini in the city, we ask him
goodness’ sake, better to avoid -
mit myself to change the quality of
in an important tourist destination where we can speak with the insti-tutions and explain that we need to think more about the decorum of
that Perbellini is not about to en-ter politics, but any future mayor should pay attention to him, if for no other reason than the great love he feels for Verona and its inhabit-
AL CAPITAN. CHEF ANDREA MANZOLI WITH THE SOUSCHEF
A DISH AT TAPASOTTO
48
APRIL 2016
The Perbellini networkCASA PERBELLINI | P.ZZA SAN ZENO, 16 | TEL. 045 8780860 |WWW.CASAPERBELLINI.COM
LOCANDA 4 CUOCHI | VIA MARIO ALBERTO, 12 | TEL. 045 8030311-8021705 | WWW.LOCANDA4CUOCHI.IT
AL CAPITAN DELLA CITTADELLA | P.ZZA CITTADELLA, 7 | TEL. 045 595157 | WWW.ALCAPITAN.IT
PIZZERIA DU DE COPE | GALLERIA PELLICCIAI, 10 | TEL. 045 595562 |WWW.PIZZERIADUDECOPE.IT
TAPASOTTO | GALLERIA PELLICIAI 12 | TEL. 045 591477 | WWW.TAPASOTTO.IT
DOLCE LOCANDA | VIA CATULLO VALERIO, 12 |TEL. 045 8004211 | WWW.DOLCELOCANDA.IT
CINQUE | PIAZZETTA PORTICHETTI, 3 | TEL. 045 597004 | WWW.CINQUEROOMS.IT
CAFFÈ ENOTECA ZERO | V.LO GHIAIA, 2 | TEL. 045 9235180 |WWW.ENOTECAZERO7.IT
DOLCE LOCANDA. DOLCE LOCANA. PREPARING SINGLE-PORTION MILLEFOGLIEPIZZERIA DU DE COPE
DOLCE LOCANDA. SINGLE-PORTION MILLEFOGLIE
APRIL 2016
49
Vineyard for Vineyard. Wine for Wine.www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it
ADDRESSES
tre bicchieri 2016. Wineries in the province of VeronaALLEGRINI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’11 | FUMANE (VR) | WWW.ALLEGRINI.IT
LORENZO BEGALI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. MONTE CA’ BIANCA ’10 |SAN PIETRO IN CARIANO (VR) | WWW.BEGALIWINE.IT
CAV. G. B. BERTANI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’07 | GREZZANA (VR) | WWW.BERTANI.NET
CA’ LA BIONDA | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. VIGN. DI RAVAZZO ’11 | MARANO DI VALPOLICELLA (VR) | WWW.CALABIONDA.IT
CA’ RUGATE | SOAVE CL. MONTE ALTO ’13 |MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA (VR) | WWW.CARUGATE.IT
I CAMPI | VALPOLICELLA SUP. RIPASSO CAMPO CIOTOLI ’13 | ILLASI (VR) | WWW.ICAMPI.IT
CAVALCHINA | CUSTOZA SUP. AMEDEO ’13 | SOMMACAMPAGNA (VR) | WWW.CAVALCHINA.COM
COFFELE | SOAVE CL. CA’ VISCO ’14 | SOAVE (VR) | WWW.COFFELE.IT
GUERRIERI RIZZARDI | VALPOLICELLA CL. SUP. RIPASSO POJEGA ’13 | BARDOLINO (VR) |WWW.GUERRIERI-RIZZARDI.IT
MARCATO | SOAVE CL. PIGNO ’13 | RONCÀ (VR) | WWW.MARCATOVINI.IT
MARION | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA ’10 | SAN MARTINO BUON ALBERGO (VR) | WWW.MARIONVINI.IT
MASI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. CAMPOLONGO DI TORBE ’09 | SANT’AMBROGIO DI VALPOLICELLA (VR) | WWW.MASI.IT
MONTE DEL FRÀ | CUSTOZA SUP. CA’ DEL MAGRO ’13 | SOMMACAMPAGNA (VR) | WWW.MONTEDELFRA.IT
MUSELLA | VALPOLICELLA SUP. ’13 | SAN MARTINO BUON ALBERGO (VR) |WWW.MUSELLA.IT
OTTELLA | LUGANA MOLCEO RIS. ’13 | PESCHIERA DEL GARDA (VR) | WWW.OTTELLA.IT
LEONILDO PIEROPAN | SOAVE CL. CALVARINO ’13 | SOAVE (VR) | WWW.PIEROPAN.IT
GRAZIANO PRÀ | SOAVE CL. STAFORTE ’13 |MONTEFORTE D’ALPONE (VR) | WWW.VINIPRA.IT
GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’06 | NEGRAR (VR)
ROENO | CRISTINA V. T. ’12 | BRENTINO BELLUNO (VR) | WWW.CANTINAROENO.COM
TENUTA SANT’ANTONIO | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CAMPO DEI GIGLI ’11 | COLOGNOLA AI COLLI (VR) | WWW.TENUTASANTANTONIO.IT
VITICOLTORI SPERI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. VIGN. SANT’URBANO ’11 |SAN PIETRO IN CARIANO (VR) | WWW.SPERI.COM
TAMELLINI | SOAVE CL. LE BINE DE COSTIOLA ’13 | SOAVE (VR) |
AGOSTINO VICENTINI | SOAVE SUP. IL CASALE ’14 | COLOGNOLA AI COLLI (VR) | WWW.VINIVICENTINI.COM
LE VIGNE DI SAN PIETRO | BARDOLINO ’14 |SOMMACAMPAGNA (VR) | WWW.LEVIGNEDISANPIETRO.IT
VILLA SPINOSA | VALPOLICELLA CL. SUP. RIPASSO JAGO ’11 | NEGRAR (VR) | WWW.VILLASPINOSA.IT
VIVIANI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. CASA DEI BEPI ’10 | NEGRAR (VR) | WWW.CANTINAVIVIANI.COM
ZENATO | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. SERGIO ZENATO RIS. ’09 | PESCHIERA DEL GARDA (VR) | WWW.ZENATO.IT
WHERE TO EAT IN VERONADESCO | VIA DIETRO SAN SEBASTIANO, 7 | TEL. 045 595358 | WWW.ILDESCO.COM
AL CRISTO | P.TTA PESCHERIA, 6 | TEL. 045 594287 | WWW.RISTORANTEALCRISTO.IT
BORSARI 36 DELL’HOTEL PALAZZO VICTORIA | C.SO PORTA BORSARI, 36 |
TEL. 045 8000779 | WWW.BORSARI36.IT
OSTERIA SOTTORIVA | VIA SOTTORIVA, 9 | TEL. 045 8014323 |
I MASENINI | VIA ROMA, 34 | TEL. 045 8065169 | WWW.IMASENINI.COM
PESCHERIA I MASENINI | P.TTA PESCHERIA, 9 | TEL. 045 9298015 |
WWW.PESCHERIAIMASENINI.IT
CONFUSION | VIA PONTE NUOVO, 9 | TEL. 045 4624806 | WWW.RISTORANTIPESCEVERONA.COM
ALCOVA DEL FRATE | VIA PONTE PIETRA, 19 |
TEL. 045 8000653 | WWW.ALCOVADELFRATE.IT
CAFÉS & BARS CAFFÈ ALEXANDER |
VIA LOCATELLI, 15 | TEL. 045 597 569
CAFFÈ BORSARI | C.SO PORTONI BORSARI, 15D | TEL. 045 8031313
CAFFÈ COLONIALE | P.TTA VIVIANI, 14C | TEL. 045 801 2647
FLEGO | C.SO PORTA BORSARI, 9 | TEL. 045 8032471
PIZZACAFFÈ LA TORRE | STRADONE SCIPIONE MAFFEI, 1 | TEL. 045 2525464
TOSCA CAFÉ | VIA PONTE NUOVO, 8 | TEL. 366 5922835
TRE FOGLIE 2016. province of VeronaCA’ RAINENE | TORRI DEL BENACO (VR) | WWW.PAOLOBONOMELLI.COM
FRANTOIO BONAMINI | ILLASI (VR) | WWW.OLIOBONAMINI.COM
TENUTA POJANA | CAZZANO DI TRAMIGNA (VR) | WWW.TENUTAPOJANA.IT
SAN CASSIANO | MEZZANE DI SOTTO (VR) | WWW.CANTINASANCASSIANO.IT
SISURE | MEZZANE DI SOTTO (VR) | WWW.SISURE.IT
TRAVEL
Vineyard for Vineyard.
APRIL 2016
51
text and photographyby Antonella Cecconi
TRAVEL
CUBAthe allure of
the Caribbean
phot
o by
Pao
lo G
otti
52
APRIL 2016
In a period of effervescent transition,after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip
of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend
between old style and the new on its way in
Massimo Bottura will launch his restaurant here before next Christ-mas and a free mega-concert by the Rolling
Stones is scheduled for March 25, 2016. “Cuba will be the new desti-nation over the next ten years,” says Italy’s number one chef. He wants to open, together with Andoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz in San Sebas-tian and Enrique Olvera of Pujol in Mexico City, a restaurant that offers a mix of Mediterranean-Caribbe-an food seasoned with good music. Quality ingredients are abundant
free-range chicken. Cuba is an Eden where visitors can forget winter, enjoy the sparkling aromas of sea breezes, combine cocktails and Ca-ribbean rhythms. Although the island is rich in history and art, it has been tested by decades of embargo. The
atmosphere of the 1960s has been
style cars and the absence of the -
vides the basic needs of the people, wide-spread consumerism is still a mirage. The marks of colonialism are evident in the sumptuous art nou-veau architecture, some of it in decay, some splendidly restored. The Grand Hotel is only for foreigners, and the double money system is confusing (1 CUC is a convertible Cuban peso, worth about 1 euro or a little over a dollar for tourists and for imports, and equal to about 29 Cuban pesos, the moneda nacional, or CUP). Just outside the capital city, nature is pristine: deserted beaches, wetlands, tropical forest. Almost a quarter of the island’s nature is protected. Visi-tors can best see Cuba by renting a four-wheel drive or traveling on the comfortable Viazul, air-conditioned
TRAVEL
buses for tourists. A tour of the west-ern half of the island can begin at the national park of the Valle de Vi-ñales: palm trees, corn and tobacco
mogotes, the limestone-karst panettone-shaped rocks from the Ju-rassic period (160 million years ago). Riding a horse through the silent val-ley feels like traveling back in time. Visit a tobacco plantation where the iconic puros are made, the natural cigars that Che Guevara smoked. The Cueva del Indio is a system of caverns that lead to an underground river. After a section on foot, explo-ration continues in a motor boat. The best view of the valley is from Los Jazmines, the hotel near the La Terraza restaurant, set in lush vegeta-tion. For a day at the sea, go north to Cayo Jutías, an island linked by causeway to the main land and its white beach-es. To the southeast is the peninsula
PALACIO DE LOS CAPITANES GENERALES, HOME OF THE MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD
HAVANA
Havana covers a lot of ground and includes many different neighborhoods, from modern Vedado to the historic center, La Habana Vie-ja. Ignore the potholes in the sidewalks but notice the repair work going on everywhere. Relax into the magic of the old city. In the im-portant streets – calle Obispo, Mercaderes, de la Obra Pia – an enchanting mix of archi-tecture surrounds you: Spanish buildings, co-lonial homes, pastel-colored houses and aged art deco pharmacies. The historic plazas are alluring: Plaza de la Catedral (San Cristóbal), Plaza de Armas (with the multicolored book market and Museo de la Ciudad), Plaza Vieja (don’t miss the Museo del Ron). At the end of calle Obispo is the central zone. Il Capitolio and Gran Teatro de La Habana (one of the most capacious theaters in the world where Sarah Bernhardt, Arthur Rubinstein and An-drés Segovia have been on stage) are being re-stored, but you can see them from the terrace of the historic Hotel Inglaterra, along with a beautiful view over the city and a good cock-tail. Paseo del Prado is the most memorable boulevard – Moorish buildings, bronze lions, polychrome marble pavements and birds singing in their cages hung on the trees.
of Zapata, a wetland, bird and ani--
ish. Playa Larga, a renowned beach, although not one of the best, is near the Playa Giron, the site of the unfor-tunate Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961.Along the coast, on the road for Cienfuegos, Caleta Buena is a beauti-ful beach (admission is charged) with many snorkeling facilities. The most startling building in Cienfuegos is Pa-lacio de Valle, a Spanish-Moroccan fantasy with a bar commanding a superb view over the bay. Trinidad, protected by UNESCO, has charm-ing cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial homes with painted wooden columns (barrotes) at the windows. This capital of the sugar and slave trades has been splendidly preserved thanks to its isolation since 1950. There are many restaurants (paladares) where you can eat and sleep. Sol Ananda, on the central Plaza Mayor, is the best both for atmosphere and food. In the evening, go to Casa de la Trova (or the more crowded Casa de ph
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TRAVEL
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS
la Musica) to dance son or salsa, drink rum and enjoy the sensual physical-ity of Cubans of every size and age when they move to music. Among the numerous musical genres, (rum-ba, mambo, danzòn, bolero, salsa etc.) son is probably the most popu-lar. It is familiar to foreigners from
Buena Vista Social Club.Another genre is trova, two voices and a guitar, born in the eastern part of the country and deriving its name from itinerant musicians, trovadores.
Moron is an unspoiled town with wonderful, honest and generous people. Use it as a base for visiting the Cayos. Reserve the city’s best
crab, in Giraldo and Katia’s Hostal Alicia. To the north is an archipela-go of 400 islands called Jardines del Rey. Once a haven for pirates and
-tiful beaches both at Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo. It is a natural oa-
white ibis, black hawks that feast on crabs, zunzùn (emerald-colored bee hummingbirds), herons, and dol-phins. (An area of the sea is fenced off so visitors can swim with these mammals.) Santa Clara is remem-bered as the site of the last battle of Che Guevara, who put an end here to the dictatorship of General Ba-tista. Remedios is known for a dra-matic baroque altarpiece of gilded, carved wood in its cathedral, but also for the celebration of Las Par-randas, which ends on Christmas Eve with a gathering in the Plaza. Everyone comes together to eat,
all night and admiring the creative -
to Cayo Largo, which has the coun-try’s loveliest beaches (Playa Sirena, Paraiso and Tortuga), one more beautiful than the next, with natural swimming pools and fresh coconuts to complete the picture.
MUSIC AND CINEMACULTURAL FERMENTThe capital is striking for its cultural buzz, with many international events taking place, such as the Festival In-ternacional del Nuevo cinema latinoamericano, the Festival Internacional Jazz Plaza, both in December, the Feria Inter-nacional del Libro (February) e the Art Biennial. Young artists can be seen at the Pabellón de Cuba. Nearby is the Hotel Na-cional, an art deco jewel that calls for a visit and a cocktail on the marvelous lawn facing the ocean, the Malecón espla-nade. The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, in the contem-porary Cuban art section, is a marvel for its stylistic variety, from the anthropomorphic in-sect gripping a wall by Rober-to Fabelo, (is it Gregor Samsa from Kafka’s Metamorpho-sis?) to the ships laden with slaves by Manuel Mendive. Performances, events and the young people involved show that in Cuba the academies are truly artistic forges, and not stiff institutions. The Na-tional Museum of Decorative Arts in Vedado is an aristo-cratic residence from the end of the 1920’s, complete with furnishings and collections, an immersion in colonial life. It was the property of the Count-ess of Revilla de Camargo, a collector of Asian art, glass and crystal art nouveau, por-celain, English furniture and
during the revolution, hiding all their precious objects in spaces behind the walls, in the hope that someday they could get them back.
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CAYO GUILLERMO, BANANA TREE AND ZUNZÙN (HUMMINGBIRD)
PALADARES AND CASAS PARTICULARESFAMILY FLAVORThanks to recently relaxed rules, Cubans have ob-tained licenses, about half a million, to open small commercial enterprises, such as paladares, res-taurants in private homes featuring local cuisine, and casas particulares, basically bed and break-fast in private houses. Many of these rooms, even if Spartan, are in picturesque colonial residences, and are often preferable to anonymous and mod-ern, international-style hotels. Both paladares and casas particulares are subjected to government scrutiny, but offer an opportunity to be in contact with Cubans and their daily life. In the cities, the most famous paladares are in historic buildings and a favorite with gastronomes. In Havana, La Guarida (which was the set of a popular Cuban movie Strawberries and Chocolate) is in a faded early 20th-century building where laundry is hung
furniture is antique, the photos from another age, the food may be better and less expensive in other places – but La Guarida’s atmosphere is unique. Another spectacular paladar is Café Laurent, a penthouse with a terrace, a view over the city and excellent cuisine. Reserve for sunset.
PASEO DEL PRADO
TRAVEL
ADDRESSES
HAVANACAFÈ LAURENT | PALADAR | CALLE M,257 | 19 Y 21 PENTHOUSE (VEDADO) |TEL. +53 (7) 8312090 – 8326890 | WWW.CAFELAURENT.UEUO.COM
LA GUARIDA | PALADAR | CONCORDIA, 418 E/ GERVASIO Y ESCOBAR | TEL. +53 (7) 78669047 | WWW.LAGUARIDA.COM
EL TEMPLETE | AV. DEL PUERTO ESQ. A NARCISO LÒPEZ | HABANA VEJA | TEL. +53 (7) 8668807 – 8647777 | [email protected] | Red snapper (pargo) baked in parch-
per person (double the cost of average Cuban restaurants)
EUROPA CAFÉ| CALLE OBISPO, 301 / AGUAR | OLD HAVANA | LOBSTER 10 EURO
HOTEL NACIONAL DE CUBA | CALLE 21 Y O | VEDADO | PLAZA | TEL. +53 (7) 836 3564 AL 67 | WWW.HOTELNACIONALDECUBA.COM | DOUBLE FROM 175 EUROS WITH BREAKFAST
HOTEL FLORIDA | OBISPO, 252 | TEL. +53 (7) 8624127 | WWW.HOTELFLORIDACUBA.COM | DOUBLE 200 EUROS
HOTEL INGLATERRA | PASEO DEL PRADO, 416 | ESQ. SAN RAFAEL | TEL. +53 (7) 860 8594-97 | WWW.HOTELINGLATERRA-CUBA.COM | DOUBLE FROM 70 EUROS
CHEZ NOUS | CASA PARTICOLAR | TENIENTE REY, 115 Y SAN IGNACIO | TEL. +53 (7) 8626287 | [email protected]
VIÑALESRESTAURANT LA TERRAZA | VICINO HOTEL LOS JAZSMINE | TEL. CARRETERA DE LA ERMITA KM. 2 | TEL: +53 (48) 8936100
HOTEL LOS JAZMINES | CARRETTERA A VIÑALES KM. 25 | TEL. 48796205 | WWW.HOTELESCUBANACAN.COM | DOUBLE 100 EUROS
PLAYA LARGA (BAY OF PIGS)MAYELIN Y ORIOL CASA COSTA AZUL | CASA PARTICULAR | CIÉNAGA DE ZAPATA | MATANZAS | TEL. +53 (8) 45 98 75 73 | CELL. +53 534 35506 | WWW.CASACOSTAAZUL.COM
DOUBLE 55-60 EUROS, BREAKFAST INCL.
TRINIDAD RISTORANTE SOL ANANDA | REAL, 45 | PLAZA MAYOR | TEL 53-41998281 | TRU-LYCUBA.COM/SOL-ANANDA | [email protected]
HOSTAL JOSE Y FATIMA | CASA PARTICOLAR |CALLE FRANCISCO JAVIER ZERQUERA, 159 |TEL. +53 (419) 996682 | CELL. +53 52911865 | [email protected] | DOUBLE 35-40 EUROS BREAKFAST INCL.
PLAYA SIRENA
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MORONHOSTAL ALICIA | CASA PARTICOLAR | LIBERTAD, 90 | ENTRE MARTI Y CASTILLO |TEL. 033 50 5194 FROM THE PROVINCE OF HAVANA | TEL. 0133 50 5194 FROM OUTSIDE HAVANA| FROM CELL. 0053 33 50 5194 | [email protected] | DOPPIA 25-30 EURO | DOUBLE 25-30 EUROS | DINNER OF CRABS AND SEA-FOOD 10 EUROS
REMEDIOSHOSTAL BUEN VIAJE – LESTER MERCEDO Y NATY TORNA | CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE ANDRES DEL RIO, 20 E/ ENRIQUE MALARET Y MAXIMO GOMEZ |TEL. +53 (42) 396560 | [email protected] DOUBLE 29 EUROS BREAKFAST INCL. DINNER WITH FISH AND CRUSTACEANS 10 EURO
LA ESTANCIA - SR. NOLY Y AMARELYS|CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE CAMILO CIENFUEGOS, 34 E/AV. GENERAL CARRILLOY JOSÈ A PENA | TEL. 0053 (42) 395582 | [email protected]
CAYO GUILLERMO GRAN CARIBE CLUB | JARDINES DEL REY | CIEGO DE AVILA |TEL. +53 (33) 301712 | JEFE.RECEPCION
@ALLEGROCAYOGUILLERMO.TUR.CU| BUNGALOW, SEA VIEW 60 EUROS PER PERSON, ALL MEALS INCLUDED
CAYO LARGOSOL CAYO LARGO MELIA | TEL. +53 (45) 248260 | WWW.SOLMELIACUBA.COM | PER PERSON, ALL MEALS INCLUDED 150 EUROS
FRUIT, CHICKEN, SEAFOODTHE ORGANIC ISLANDAny exploration of the Cuban countryside makes it evident that organic farming is the norm. Agriculture is as it once was, a matter of hoe and plow, sometimes pulled by oxen. Roads are often only one lane because the other is taken up by rice laid out to dry. Animals wander freely. Tropical fruit – pineapple, strawberries, mango, papaya – is succulent and sweet. The most typical dish is comida criolla, made with pork or chicken, fried or roasted, enlivened with bell peppers, onions, oregano and cumin, and served with the omnipresent rice and beans (moros y cristianos, black or red). Marinated suckling pig (lechos) is roasted or cooked on a spit. But the greatest attraction for foreigners is the fresh seafood: lobsters, enormous crabs, often served grilled (10-20 euros a portion). Shrimps (camarones) appear grilled, baked, steamed and boiled. A seafood dinner in casas particulares and paladares
Coppelia. In Havana it’s an institution, including the inevitable line. Best to forget about wine – it’s costly and inferior. Local beer, however, is excellent and comes in two types, Cristal, which is light, and Bucanero, with a higher degree of alcohol.
It’s rare to end a day in Cuba without having had one or more, often accompanied by the live music so popular in bars. Some locales, famous, touristy and expensive, have become known for particular drinks. The daiquiri made the name of La Floridita, supposedly an Ernest Hemingway hangout; the mojito at Bodeguita del Medio is renowned. The Cuba libre owes its name to liberation from Spanish colonialism, but there’s also the Havana Espe-cial, and the Ron Collins. Rum (ron), made from molasses, comes in various types: after 18 months it is Silver Dry (the base for cocktails), aged 3 years, carta blancait becomes carta oro, and after 7, it is called añejo and is aged in oak barrels for at least 3 years. These are rums that are consumed straight.
DINNER WITH LOBSTER AND CRAB AT NATY AND LESTER
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Livia Montagnoli collaborated
THE FOREST IS HER FRIEND
THE STORY
FORAGING 60
APRIL 2016
Noris, the Forest Lady, is a master of foraging, the new trendin cooking and the culinary world. She found her pathways
in Val Rendena, in Trentino, at the beginning of this century.It is also a story of green economy that in a short time,
found its way around the world, from the USA to Australia.
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PROFESSIONALS, IN EVERY SENSE.
13-15 November 2016LINGOTTO FIERE TURIN - ITALY
www.gourmetforum.it
FOOD & BEVERAGE VINE & SPIRITS TECHNOLOGIES BAKERY PASTRY ICE CREAM COFFEE CHOCOLATE MACHINERY EQUIPMENT FURNITURE TABLEWARE INNOVATION DESIGN SERVICES PROFESSIONAL TRAINIG JOB OPPORTUNITIES E!COMMERCE WEB MARKETING
PASSION for:
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THE STORY
Her name is Eleonora Cunaccia and her friends call her Noris. But there are many who refer to her as the ‘Forest Lady’, the forests being those of the Val Rendena,
in the Dolomite mountains of Spiazzo, in Trentino. For over ten years, Noris has turned her special relationship with nature into a unique profession. Each day she renews her bond, a rapport made up of work, silence, solitude and great joy. She moves among the secrets of the moun-tain, where at the food of a walnut tree, even in winter, underneath the snow, she
that if you look around you, learning to listen to nature, you can bring home the best that the woods know how to offer. Among these treasures are rose hips, yar-row, wild fennel, mallow, linden blossoms (the serenity plant), and common nettles, a concentrate of iron and vitamins. “Nature needs time and different types of manual dexterity. It reveals itself only to those who approach with grace and respect, with-out greed. It’s enough to ask for what one needs,” she says. The search can become ritual and “You can discover the joy of nourishment.”
managed with her brother Giovanni in Spiazzo, the town where both were born.
to shift gear. Today Noris is one of Italy’s best known foragers for wild herbs, berries and mushrooms. She understands every-thing edible that her mountains offer. As an expert in foraging, the term for a phe-nomenon that began in the 1960s and that has become a culinary trend, she seeks for the dimension that lets natural resources nourish her body and soul. Noris doesn’t like to speak of trends and movements. In-stead, she reminds us that hers is a profes-sion of commitment, built up slowly. She continues to fear, with reverential re-spect, this majestic force that takes and gives. “I am very afraid of nature,” she revealed sincerely. “I don’t know every-thing, and I always have to be certain what I am bringing home. I have a great store of experiences with my territory, accumulated over time. But I wish ev-
eryone could discover how much life is in the nature that surrounds us, could learn to recognize a few herbs or a wild fruit, could become aware of even ten little remedies that our grandmothers knew well – how much satisfaction they
-covery takes on a different value.”Far from those who trumpet trends
of life that sound like warnings for the elite, Noris wants to contribute to an ethical cause that calls for everyone to work for a better future. But she does it with the simplicity that accompanies her every gesture, without proclamations or life lessons. “My work is ethical be-cause I bend my back, I labor, I earn my bread, I respect and honor nature every day. Nature knows how to be generous, but only if you know how to develop a friendship that takes into account her enormous resources without abusing them.” The point is in the difference
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THE STORY
between thoughtful consumption and the untrammeled consumption that af-
nature as a pantry to carefully protect, and not as shelves to loot.”Thirteen years ago, when this all be-gan, she worried that her choice would prove to be too extreme. Today, Primi-tivizia goods (the brand name she uses to package her products - www.primi-tivizia.it) are sought after even abroad. “The United States imports almost all our production of Mugolio – or Pine
cherries to Australia.” Noris works closely with her brother Giovanni. “In our workshop, he manages the alche-my part: he cleans, processes, extracts
twenty products, ranging from essenc-
es of chives or dandelions to rose hip ketchup and the herb known as maid-enstears. Now Noris has undertaken a new proj-ect, and for the last few years she has tried to domesticate some wild moun-tainous plants. In four extreme herb gardens she grows radicchio dell’orso, or Alpine sow-thistle, and is beginning to get results. “It’s a hunter’s herb, very famous in our valleys and today protected like edelweiss. In Friuli it is a Slow Food Presidio.” If she has a se-cret, it’s this. “Become a plant yourself. Plants have no voice. Like babies, they communicate only if you know how to interpret them. So then you have to commit yourself to slow domestica-
-plains, ever going against nature.
FORAGING, FOOD AND ECOLOGYThe modern-day trend that involves important young chefs around the world and various pro-fessional gatherers, uses the term foraging to mean the collecting of wild, spontaneous herbs and fruit in the woods for use in the kitchen. In this sense, it is a kind of re-turn to hunter-gatherer cultures in an ancestral era before true agricul-tural models were insti-tuted. But herb gatherers in Italy and elsewhere made up a hard core of food providers for towns and cities until the 1960s, when the post-war boom gave birth to industrial
supermarkets. In ecol-ogy and ethology, forag-ing means the search for wild food resources and above all, the study of animals and their capaci-ty to feed themselves and reproduce in nature. For-aging theory is a branch of behavioral ecology that studies the manner
food in response to the environment in which they live and the ways they maximize their en-ergy and minimize the time spent. The contem-porary foraging trend, instead, is essentially based on the old science of studying the use of ed-ible wild plants in times of famine or other emer-genciesWWW.WOOD-ING.ORG |FORAGE.BERKELEY.EDU |THEURBANEFORAGER.BLOGSPOT.IT
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Winter Foraging BY NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS VEGETABLES
1 YELLOW TURNIP, 1 BEET, 1 CELERY ROOT, 1 CHIOGGIA BEET, 8 COLORED BABY CARROTS, 12 YELLOW NUTSEDGE
AMARANTH WAFERS 200 G AMARANTH, 1 LITER WATER, 1 LITER VEGETABLE OIL
MASCARPONE (450 ML FRESH CREAM, 20 G POWDERED MILK, 100 G FRESH WHOLE MILK, 5 G CITRIC ACID)
PUMPKIN SEED OIL
CARROT GREENS
Slice the vegetables into thin rounds, using a mandoline. Place the vegetables in sepa-rate vacuum bags, with their juices. Cook in steam oven, 8 minutes at 90°C (195°F). Chill in iced water.
Prepare the amaranth wafers. Cover the amaranth with cold water, bring to a boil and cook until liquid is completely evapo-rated. Spread on a silicone baking mat and dry in a 70°C oven (160°F) for one hour. Then fry at 170°C (340°F).
Mascarpone: heat cream and milk to 70°C (160°F). Add powders. Leave to strain through gauze in refrigerator for 48 hours.
THE CHEFS
NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER | ST. HUBERTUS DELL’HOTEL ROSA ALPINA | SAN CASSIANO IN BADIA (BZ) | WWW.ROSALPINA.IT | WWW.N-N.IT
PIERGIORGIO PARINI | OSTERIA DEL POVERO DIAVOLO |TORRIANA (RN) | WWW.RISTORANTE
POVERODIAVOLO.COM
ENRICO MAZZARONI | IL TIGLIO| LOC. ISOLA DI SAN BIAGIO | MONTEMONACO (AP) | WWW.ENRICODELTIGLIO.IT
ALAN BERGO | THE SALT CELLAR | SAINT PAUL | MINNESOTA (USA) |FORAGERCHEF.COM | WWW.SALTCELLARSAINTPAUL.COM
TOMMY BANKS | BLACK SWAN | OLDSTEAD | YORKSHIRE (GB) | TOMMYBANKS.WORDPRESS.COM | MUNCHIES.VICE.COM
RENE REDZEPI | NOMA | COPENAGHEN (DANIMARCA) | NOMA.DK
DANIEL PATTERSON | 373, BROADWAY | SAN FRANCISCO (USA) | COIRESTAURANT.COM | DPGRP.CO
DAVE CHANG | MOMOFUKU | MOMOFUKU SSÄM BAR | NEW YORK (USA) | MOMOFUKU.COM
BEN SHEWRY | ATTICA | MELBOURNE | AUSTRALIA | WWW.ATTICA.COM.AU
JOCELYN MYERS-ADAMS | TABLEBAY HOTEL | CITTÀ DEL CAPO | SUDAFRICA | THETABLEBAYHOTEL-CAPETOWN.H-REZ.COM
DAVID EVERITT-MATTHIAS | LE CHAMPIGNON SAUVAGE | CHELTENHAM (GB) | WWW.LECHAMPIGNONSAUVAGE.CO.UK Arrange on dish, imaginatively.
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An essential bookfor all who love Italian wine
More than 60 experts spent monthsdoing blind tastings
in every region of Italy
2400 producers
22000 wines
421 Tre Bicchieri
80 Tre Bicchieri verdi
www.gamberorosso.it
Curds of herbs, herring milk, eggBY PIERGIORGIO PARINI FOR THE CURDS 100 G BORAGE
100 G NETTLES
AROMATIC HERBS
WILD HERBS
Cook the wild herbs, borage and nettles in salt-ed water. Cool and drain. Puree in a blender
puree over low heat until it begins to coagulate like ricotta. Remove from heat and transfer to a mould lined with paper towel. Cool at room temperature, taste for salt and sprinkle the top with fresh chopped herbs.
FOR THE SMOKED HERRING MILK 1 SMOKED HERRING
150 G MILK
Leave the herring in the cold milk for two
FOR THE EGG 2 EGG YOLKS
100 G CREAM
LEMON ZEST AND MACE
PARMIGIANO REGGIANO
SALT, PEPPER, SOYA LECITHIN
Boil the cream with the mace, pour the mix-ture onto the egg yolks and mix with Par-migiano. Replace on low heat and cook like
and keep warm.
TO COMPLETE THE DISH MARJORAM
SORREL
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and with an immersion blender, emulsify the surface to obtain a foam like that on a cappuc-cino. (A little soya lecithin previously added to the liquid can help.)In a deep plate, arrange the browned curds, dampen the surface with a little creamy egg mixture, arrange the aromatic herbs on top and complete with the whipped herring milk.
THE STORY
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ICE Gambero Rosso P_int 230x285mm Formaggi.indd 1 18/03/16 15:22
RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
by Maurizio Bertera
Perbellini
The challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his
Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously
chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmers’
markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence
BEGIN WITHTHE MARKET AND
THE SEASONS
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THE MATHEMATICS OF INGREDIENTSHis restaurant, Casa Perbellini, is a true home, a few steps from the splendid Romanesque basilica of San Zeno, facing one of Verona’s great piazzas. A small door opens into an entry with a counter and a table. Im-mediately to the side is a room with about thirty places, divided in two. The larger one is part of the kitchen, totally open, without even a separat-ing window between. The smaller one is more private, yet communicates with the rest of the space. “Casa Perbellini emerged from my desire to change my life and to bring the cook, and I under-line that word, to center stage. There are no mysteries here,” Giancarlo said. The small brigade in the front of the house, with Barbara Manoni in charge, and the larger one in the kitchen, led by sous chef Giacomo Sacchetto, work in sync, without the slightest tension. The result is satisfying: the two dishes of “a Mezzogiorno” (At Noon) are per-fect for a gourmet’s lunch break at 50 euros. The sequence of plates in “As-saggi” (Tastes) for 135 euros delights the palate with Perbellini classics alongside
sceglie…prova” (choose and try) has the client select two out of four possible in-gredients, and the kitchen then prepares two dishes (110 euros) that feature those ingredients. It seems like a Master Chef test, but the idea is simply pure math. “We put together seasonality, good shop-ping in the morning since we don’t have a cold storage zone or a freezer, the abil-ity to surprise our guests and the concept of home.” Another interesting meal costs
offered between 19 and 20.45, allows clients to sample the maestro Veronese’s classic dishes. The restaurant’s wine cel-lar, given Perbellini’s exquisite taste, is up to the kitchen’s standards, and is both in-telligent and deep, with 250 labels (“That we like, obviously,” the chef underlines).
CASA PERBELLINI |
P.ZZA SAN ZENO, 16 | VERONA |
TEL. 045 8780860 |
WWW.CASAPERBELLINI.COM
RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
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SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
40 MEZZE MANICHE (LARGE, SHORT PASTA)
20 RED SHRIMP
1 BURRATA, CUT INTO 24 PIECES
200 G FISH BROTH
5 PARSLEY STEMS
5 BASIL STEMS
1 CLOVE GARLIC
CHILI PEPPER, LEMON, FRIED ALGAE, EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, SALT
PREPARATION For the nori algae pesto: work all the ingredients with a mortar and pestle and keep cool.For the wasabi mayonnaise: combine the two ingredients until they are well-blended.Clean the shrimp, removing the shell but keeping the tail on. Slice in half length-wise and season with salt, olive oil and lemon.
parsley.
Assembly: stuff each mezza manica with half a shrimp. Arrange
6 per portion), drops of wasabi mayonnaise and algae pesto. De-corate with fried algae.
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FOR THE NORI ALGAE PESTO: 20 G ALGAE NORI
40 G PINE NUTS
10 G VINEGAR
50 G GARLIC-SCENTED OLIVE OIL
120 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
FOR THE WASABI MAYONNAISE:
100 G MAYONNAISE
20 G WASABI PASTE
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RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS, BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINSINGREDIENTS FOR 6 SERVINGS
2 LEEKS
SEA URCHINS
GRATED BLACK TRUFFLES
BUTTER
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT
FOR THE MILK FILLING 1LITER WHOLE MILK
½ LITER HEAVY CREAM
3 G CITRIC ACID
FOR THE PASTA 400 G MANITOBA FLOUR
100 G SEMOLINA
200 G WHOLE EGGS
50 G YOLKS
PREPARATION
cream to a boil, add citric acid and simmer together for 15 minutes until it curdles. Re-move from heat and cool for 20 minutes.
taste for salt.Prepare the pasta working all ingredients to-gether until smooth. Put aside to rest, then roll out very thin sheets. Shape into ravioli
Chop leeks and sauté in a pan with a drop of oil, a teaspoon of butter and a dash of salt. Cut the urchins in half with scissors and ex-tract the pulp with a spoon.Boil the ravioli in abundant salt water. Drain and dress with butter.Assembly: place sautéed leeks in the center of each plate, add buttered ravioli. On each raviolo place 2 teaspoons of sea urchin and
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RICETTE DEI GRANDI CUOCHI
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
TWO SADDLES OF BABY LAMB
100 G FRESH MORELS
1 BOX FRESH PEA SPROUTS
LAMB STOCK
NEUTRAL VEAL DEMI-GLACE
BUTTER
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
FLEUR DE SEL
SALT AND PEPPER
FOR THE PEA PURÉE 700 G FRESH SHELLED PEAS
20 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT
FOR THE EUCALYPTUS OIL
10 FRESH EUCALYPTUS LEAVES
80 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
LAMB SADDLE, PURÉED PEAS, MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA
the lamb, but keep meat pink. Leave to rest.
olive oil and butter.On a serving dish, arrange the warm pureed peas, a few whole peas (seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper) and 4 or 5 pieces of fresh morels. Cut the lamb into pieces (2 or 3 ribs together) and the cutlets separately (one for each set of ribs, as in the photograph). Ar-
Decorate with fresh pea sprouts.
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PREPARATION
Clean the lamb saddles, leaving the ribs
trimmed, held together by the bone. Re-serve the discards and prepare a classic lamb stock. Simmer the peas (keep some aside) for a minute in salt water. Strain, purée in a blender with 150 g of their own cooking water, a pinch of salt and 20 g of extra-vir-gin olive oil until desired density is reached.Simmer the reserved whole peas in salted water, cool and remove skins. Keep aside for garnish.For the eucalyptus oil: Place fresh eucalyptus leaves and extra-virgin olive oil together in a vacuum bag, and leave in a bain-marie infu-
Prepare sauce blending the lamb stock with an equal amount of demi-glace.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
CHOCOLATE LEAVES
FOR THE FAKE HAZELNUT TORRONE
75 G ITALIAN MERINGUES
100 G HAZELNUT PASTE
50 G WHIPPED CREAM (NO SUGAR)
20 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS
FOR THE HAZELNUT CRISP
50 G WAFER STICKS
25 G HAZELNUT POWDER
20 G TOASTED HAZELNUTS
30 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS
50 G 41% MILK CHOCOLATE
10 G VEGETABLE OIL
12 G MALDON-TYPE SALT
FOR THE COGNAC GELATIN
100 G COGNAC
.5 G AGAR AGAR
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
40 G WATER
55 G HEAVY CREAM
45 G SUGAR
15 G POWDERED COCOA
SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC
PREPARATION For the fake hazelnut torrone, mix Italian meringues with hazelnut paste, add whipped cream, then caramelized hazelnuts coarsely chopped. Spread the mixture on silpat to a
freezer).For the hazelnut crisp, melt the milk choco-late. Combine in a bowl crumbled wafer sticks, hazelnut powder, Maldon salt and toasted hazelnuts, chopped coarsely. Com-bine the caramelized hazelnuts with melted chocolate and add vegetable oil. Add the dry ingredients to the creamy mixture and stir well. Spread unevenly on silpat and freeze in
For the cognac gelatin: heat the cognac in a pan, but do not evaporate. Add agar agar, bring to boil, then pour liquid into silicone molds and cool in refrigerator. For the chocolate sauce, boil together water, heavy cream, sugar and cocoa powder, stir-ring constantly. Strain and cool.Assembly: place three little cognac jellies on bottom of plate. On top, place some irregu-lar pieces of fake torrone, pieces of salted chocolate mixture and complete with drops of chocolate sauce. Garnish with chocolate leaves.
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WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE 2013 MARKUS MOLITOR BERNKASTEL-WEHLEN | MOSELLA (GERMANIA) | MARKUSMOLITOR.COM
Markus Molitor is one of the masters or Riesling, the iconic wine of the Moselle. This wonderfully elegant Auslese goes well with our shrimp antipasto. Besides typical aromatic qualities and fresh-ness, it has perfect equilibrium despite its fundamental acidity.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010 POGGIO DI SOTTO MONTALCINO (SI) | WWW.POGGIODISOTTO.COM
An elegant meat main course that deserves a red that is both elegant and powerful. This Brunello vintage deservedly won a Tre Bicchieri award in Vini d’Italia 2016. Ethereal and fragrant, it is supported by a complex aromatic array.
MOSCATO D’ASTI PIASA SAN MAURIZIO 2014 FORTETO DELLA LUJA LOAZZOLO (AT) | WWW.FORTETODELLALUJA.IT
For a very Piedmontese dish, this Forteto della Luja is a winning choice. A late-harvest Moscato, it is rich and creamy on the pal-ate. Sumptuous and sweet, it is also supported by a fragrant acidic vein. An echo of vanilla and white chocolate lends itself to an
SOAVE CL. LA ROCCA 2013 LEONILDO PIEROPAN
SOAVE (VR) | WWW.PIEROPAN.IT
For the pasta course, we play a home game. This 2013 soave from Pieropan won Due Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia 2016 guide. Among the labels of this Veneto maison, it is the fruitiest, but maintains the same tension and length as its more important brother, Calvarino, a Tre Bicchieri winner.
LAMB SADDLE, PURÉED PEAS, MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA
SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO
RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS, BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINS
SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC
PAIRINGS
APRIL 2016
75
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trebicchieri Vini d’Italia
2016
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