G4 Scout Instructions

Scout Ultralight Packby Glen Van Peski

IntroductionThis pack began as an experiment to see how light I could make a pack. It is highly specializedto the way my main hiking buddy Read Miller and I hike and the gear we carry. It is designed tocarry loads of 20 - 30 Ibs. It is based on the first three packs I made, which have been used for3 seasons and hundreds of trail miles. Read had a number of requests. One was that the packbe light. He likes to carry a Platypus with a drinking hose, so he wanted an outside side pocketwhere the water can hang upside down for ease of drinking, but be visible in case it leaks. Oursleeping pads are Z-Rest pads that are cut down to 6 sections and trimmed to 15" wide. Readwanted to be able to sit on his pad while he packed his pack, then put the pad onto the pack forback padding. This pack is a simplified version of the popular G4 pack that is sold by GVP Gearand has been sewn by dozens of ultralight enthusiasts.

Features. Weight: 12 oz. (depending on how short you trim straps, how big your waist is, etc.). Capacity: 4000.::!: cu. in.. Mesh side pockets for water and quick-access items. Waist belt included. Material cost: approx. $25

Material List (first number is Quest Outfitters item no. 800/359-6931)1013 200 denier coated oxford 2/3 yd.1014 2.2 oz. coated ripstop nylon 2/3 yd.1209 Lycra micro mesh 1/3 yd.1201 Poly mesh 1/2 yd.2004 2" nylon webbing (med. wt.) 1 1/3 yd.2030 1" nylon webbing (It. wt.) 1 2/3 yd.2031 %" Grosgrain ribbon 1 yd.2402 3/32" shock cord 2 1/3 yd.3010 1" ladderlock buckles 2 ea.3068 2" Dual side release buckle 1 ea.2600 thread (120 yd. spool) 2 ea.3059 elliptical toggle 1 ea.1305 W' neoprene foam 3 in.

Note: all seams W' unless noted otherwise. Some basic sewing experience is assumed. Keeptrack of the coated ("wrong" or inside) and uncoated ("right" or outside) sides of the fabric.

Step 1: Cutting Materials

1.1 Cut out all fabric pieces according to Figures 1A and 18. Be careful on the sides to cutone right and one left, and to cut two each right and left shoulder straps. A rotary cutteris useful but not necessary. Note that this pack is made for a medium-height youth.Some modifications of the dimensions may be indicated for youth taller or shorter thanaverage.

November 25, 2000

~15"~1I I

POCKET EDGING ](3)(R) 2"

Figure 1A. Pattern (portion)

Scout Ultralight Pack Instructions

1 114"12"L "~

~~~

SHOULDER STRAP 21" J4

(2R,2L) (0)

. COATED RIPSTOP NYLONCOATED OXFORD CLOTHMICRO MESH

4"

STRAPSHOULDERCOVER (0)

TOPS

L4 1" I(2fl2li22JP4~"~

LEGEND(R) = 2.2 0(0) = 4 OZ.(L) = LYCRA(M) = MESH

z

Figure 1 B. Pattern (portion)

1.2 Cut out webbing pieces as follows and sear all ends with a flame:

1 - 10" piece of 1" webbing (haul loop)2 - 5" pieces of 1" webbing (shoulder strap tops)2 - 24" pieces 2" webbing (waist belt)2 - 20" pieces 1"webbing (shoulder strap bottoms)1 - 10" piece %" Grosgrain (bottom lashing/ice axe loop)2 - 12" pieces %" Grosgrain (pad holders)

Scout Ultralight Pack Instructions - 3-

Cut out shock cord pieces as follows:1.3

2 - 18" pieces (top of side pockets)1 - 48" piece (drawcord for main compartment)

1.4 Cut out neoprene foam as follows:

2 - 9" x 2.5" pieces

Step 2: Shoulder Straps

2.1 Sew strap pieces together, wrong side to wrong sleaving short, straight edge open. Trim corners.

2.2 Turn shoulder strap right side out.

2.3 Topstitch around edge of straps. See Figure 2.

r-I,

I,,L-_- ---

I~ I?>'I 1 ---"-

Stitching on shoulder strap.Figure 2.

2.4 Sew ladderlock to shoulder straps with 5" piece of 1" webbing as shown in Figure 2. Bartack webbing to straps where shown. Make sure you sew webbing on to end up with aright and a left strap.

Figure 3. Shoulder strap end assembly.

2.5 Set aside the tops of the shoulder straps, and sew the 4Y2" square shoulder strap braces(oxford cloth) onto the 20" long shoulder strap bottoms (1" webbing) as shown in Figure4.


ide, to make a right and a left strap,

-4-

Figure 4. Shoulder strap braces.

Step 3: Back (Oxford Cloth)

3.1 Haul Loop

3.1.1 Attach 10" piece of 1" webbing to the right side of the back, centered along the top.Sew as shown in Figure 5.

Haullaap.Figure 5.

3.2 Attaching Shoulder Strap Tops

3.2.1 Insert foam into shoulder strap tops and slide down until the end hits the stitching.Attach the shoulder strap tops, open ends, onto the right side of the back panel, asindicated in Figure 6. On the right side of the back, lay the straps down so theladderlocks are facing down, and the ends are curving away from the center. Edgestitch and do two short bartacks per strap as shown in Figure 6.

Scout Ultralight Pack Instructions - 5 -

c:

BAUt.. r>A-IJe\..

Figure 6. Shoulder pad connection to back.

3.2.2 Sew the shoulder strap cover onto the back panel, over the ends of the straps,positioned 1" from top as shown in Figure 6. Edge stitch and bar tack three times asshown in Figure 6. Sew 12" piece of Grosgrain over the top of the shoulder strapcover, sewing around all four sides of the Grosgrain ribbon, then bartacking rightunder the shoulder strap connection as shown.

3.3 Pad Holder

3.3.1 Sew the bottom of the pad holder to the back so that it is 23" from the top of the backpanel. Pin about every 2" so that it doesn't bunch up all at the end.

3.3.2 Add 12" piece of Grosgrain ribbon, covering bottom edge of the pad holder. Stitcharound all four sides of the Grosgrain.

3.3.3 Pin the edges of the pad holder to the edge of the back every 2 - 3" so it doesn't slip,and stitch a X" seam up both sides, leaving the top open.

3.4 Attaching Shoulder Strap Bottoms

3.4.1

3.4.2

Sew the shoulder strap bottoms onto the back panel per

Trim the shoulder strap braces as shown in Figure 7.


~n ~~ r:z.tAf 1L DAiU£L

1\\

3"

Figure 7.

- 6 -

Figure 7. Placement of shoulder strap bottoms.

3.5 Attaching Waist Belts to Back Panel

3.5.1 Sew ends of 24" long pieces of 2" webbing to back panel over the shoulder strapbottoms, using a 3/8" seam. Position as shown in Figure 8.

Figure 8. Attaching waist straps to back panel.


BAUL- PA+JEL(~IG.H11 6ID~)

'!i/~/ sgAM

- 7 -

Step 4: Sides (Ripstop)

4.1 Sew bottom corners of side pockets together to form a dart in the pocket shape.Leave the last W' open. Double stitch. See Figure 9.

Figure 9. Side pockets.

Sew one of the ripstop edge pieces onto the top edge of a mesh pocket, right sides4.2together as shown in Figure 10.

4.3 Fold to inside, line up ripstop edges, and stitch down, sewing over the seam youmade in the last step.

Figure 10. Top of pocket.

4.4 Thread an 18" piece of shock cord into the channel. Sew across one end and tie aknot in that end of the cord, close to where it is sewn across.

4.5 Sew the pocket to the side panel. Line up as shown in Figure 11. First place thepocket upside down on the side panel, right side to right side, and sew the bottom'tab' of the mesh pocket onto the side panel. Be sure you are sewing the pocketonto the right side of the side panel. Double stitch. Next sew the side with the shockcord sewn in with a 3/8" seam, being sure to catch the shock cord in the seam.Then sew the other side, tightening the shock cord as you sew over it. Tighten thecord so that the top of the pocket becomes about the same dimension as the width ofthe side panel. After sewing over the cord, tie a knot in the end, close to the seam.


See Figure 10.

9

- 8 -

51 \::;I PO~'E,('(2.I~K1' ~I DE DOLUf'J)

51 DE.. P~eL

l'(2.I~~1' SIDe.)

~TI1c.+t

Figure -11. Sewing side pocket onto side panel.

4.6 Repeat steps 4.1 through 4.5 for other pocket.

Step .5: Attaching the Sides, Front and Back

5.1

5.2 Sew the front/back to the sides, right sides together. Make sure the left side is on theleft and the right side is on the right. Start at the top of the back panel. Double stitch.Trim top of front panel as necessary to even it out.

Figure 12.

Sew the bottoms of the front and back panels together, right sides together, with the 10"lashing loop in the middle. Double stitch, and bartack over the lashing loop.

ends of shoulder strap bottoms and waist belts to inside of oxford back panel.5.3 ReinforceFlatten the back and the strap andbartack twice as shown on Figure 12.

Waist and shoulder strap reinforcement.


11ea.E

belt, pulling them tight to make sure it's flat, and

-9-

Step 6: Collar (Ripstop)

6.1 Sew the center seam of the collar, right sides together. On the inside, stitch down theseam allowances on both sides of the seam. See Figure 13.

Figure 13. Collar.

6.a-~ Fold the top edge to the wrong side, forming a sleeve for the shock cord. Fold under X"

Figure 14. Collar sleeve for shock cord.

6.~ .z Open the top 2" of the center seam. Bar tack at new end of seam per Figure 15.


9

- 10 -

6.4 Thread 48" shock cord into sleeve (c:i crochet hook works well) and attach toggle. Pressdown on toggle until it "clicks" to activate it. Sear ends of shock cord and tie together inknot that won't slip through the toggle.

Step 7: Finishing

7.1 Thread 1" webbing through ladderlocks on shoulder strap tops. Fold over the ends ofthe webbing about %", and sew near the folded edge. Fold so that the end is on theoutside, which gives you something to grab when you tighten the straps.

7.2 Trim the excess off the waist belt straps. Make sure to allow enough for when you arewearing additional jackets. You may want to wait until you have used the pack forawhile. Sear the cut ends with a flame and fold over to the outside and sew similar tothe shoulder straps.

Step 8: Custom izing

Once you get the hang of sewing and have taken some trips with your pack, don't be surprisedif you have ideas for improving it. You can add a roll-top closure on to provide better rainprotection, a mesh pocket on the front for drying things, additional lashing loops, drinking tubeloops on the shoulder straps, thumb loops on the shoulder straps, inside pockets... You cansee the plans for many of these features at www.QvPQear.com under the "make your own"section.

Tips for Use

CareYour pack is constructed of lightweight materials. One of the tradeoffs of designing withextremely lightweight materials is durability. The design and materials have been testedover hundreds of trail miles. The pack will not last as long or endure the same abuse asother packs. With the best of care it may still need to be repaired or replaced after a fewmonths on the trail. Each time you head our on a trip, check over your pack carefullyand repair or reinforce any areas showing wear. The ripstop nylon is very susceptible toabrasion. If you put down the pack with the nylon ripstop on rocks, your pack will shred.Pay attention when you are ducking under barbed wire fences and squeezing betweenrocks or through prickly brush. If you do a lot of these activities, this is not the pack foryou.

PackingThe basic premise in the design of this pack is using the lightest materials possible andutilizing packed items as part of the pack. The "frame" of the pack is your sleeping pad.We use a Z-Rest cut down to six sections in length. For packing, sit on your pad andstow the sleeping bag in the bottom of the pack. Unless you seal the pack seams, werecommend using a trash compactor bag or mylar turkey roasting bag for protecting yoursleeping bag and clothes. We recommend dispensing with the weight of a stuff sackand just stowing the bag directly into the trash compactor or mylar bag in the pack.


Packing the sleeping bag on the bottom helps raise the center of gravity. Next pack yourclothes, also in the protective turkey or trash bag. Next put in your other gear and finallyyour food. Comfort is improved by keeping hard objects away from your back, but heavyitems are best placed closer to the back to minimize the pull on the shoulders.

If you start out early in the morning, you may be wearing most of your clothes. Loadingyour pockets with food for the morning will allow you not to have to stop to remove foodfrom your pack. When the day warms up and you stop to strip clothing, we recommendputting the clothing below the food, since the clothing is usually less dense, and packingthe clothes below the food will raise the center of gravity. If your tarp/tent/ground cloth isdamp, it can be placed in one of the mesh pockets. Placing the wet tarp in an outsidepocket will keep it away from your dry gear, and it may dry a little. The side pockets aredesigned to store water (the tall Platypus fits nicely), first aid kit and "ten essential" itemsthat you want to have ready access to. Once your pack is packed, you can get up, foldup your pad, and slip it into the back of the pack. Under normal loads and in clearweather, fold the top of the extension collar over, and pull the shock cord through thewebbing loop in the bottom center of the pack. You can either loop the shock cord backup and loop it over the toggle, or slide the toggle up snug against the bottom loop to holdthe top. When carrying a full load after a large resupply or taking another hiker's gear,just cinch up the toggle on the shock cord.

When setting your pack down, be sure that it is resting on the heavier Oxford material onthe back and the bottom. Never sit or rest on a loaded pack.

FitFor the best fit, we recommend loosening the shoulder straps and waist belt each timeyou take off the pack. When you put the pack on, fasten the waist belt, hike the pack upon your hips, tighten the waist belt then tighten the shoulder straps.
