Fused Glass Solar Lights by Kaleidoglass · 2017. 8. 8. · This is a fun tutorial to make solar lights out of your fused glass. The three projects are “Slurry Flower Solar Lights”,

Fused Glass Solar Lights Slurry, Mushroom, and Torch Solar Lights

Nancy Sala - Kaleidoglass

This is a fun tutorial to make solar lights out of your fused glass. The three projects are “Slurry Flower Solar Lights”, “Mushroom Solar Lights”, and “Torch Solar Lights”. All the fused glass pieces were done using Creative Paradise molds. I would like to thank Stephanie Kay O’Toole for the wonderful molds that are created for our fusing community, for her great Slurry technique, for always inspiring us, and for allowing me to place a link of this tutorial in the group Fusers of CPI. IMPORTANT – You must read the following before starting the projects. This will help protect both you and me. AGREEMENT / DISCLAIMER: This is the legal Mumbo Jumbo. The following projects may require the use of hand tools and/or power tools, handling sharp glass, and electrical appliances. Care must be taken when handling all tools and glass. Please wear safety glasses, and gloves when using power tools. The author of this tutorial (me, Nancy Sala) is not responsible for misuse of the tools, and/or any injury that may occur due to the use of said tools. I make no assurances that the projects will work for you, although I do believe that they will. This tutorial is copyright by Kaleidoglass with all rights reserved. VERY, VERY IMPORTANT !!! Please, I ask that you do not copy and share this tutorial with friends. If they want it, please direct them to the purchase link. I spent countless hours creating this tutorial for your use. You may print it, but for your use only. So I’m going to trust that you abide by my wishes. Do enjoy the projects and be happy! ARTIST STATEMENT I began making glass creations 34 years ago as a traditional stained glass artist. My desire to experiment and to see how far I could transform glass gave way to this passion I call “hot glass” and “warm glass”. There is something to be said about manipulating a plain cold piece of glass in a flame or a kiln and transform it into a piece of beauty. I am seduced by the endless variety of colors, textures, and forms I can create with glass. My work can be found in galleries and shops throughout the country and am currently and have been a featured artist in numerous fine art festivals and juried exhibitions. Currently living in New Mexico, one of the top art destinations in the United States, my work is represented in galleries in Old Town Albuquerque, Madrid, and Santa Fe, NM. I am the founder of The Penn Dragons, the Eastern Pennsylvania chapter of the International Society of Glass Beadmakers, and am a past member of the Pennsylvania Guild of Craftsmen, including a member of the Reading/Berks chapter and the Artisan Circle chapter. In 2009, I was chosen to exhibit at the prestigious Pennsylvania Glass Trails. I also find great joy in teaching this art form. I have taught glass beadmaking and glass fusing at The GoggleWorks Center for the Arts in Reading, PA, and at The Banana Factory Center for the Arts in Bethlehem, PA. Additionally, I am also the author of a practical how-to book entitled “Wirework for Beadmakers”.

Fused Glass Solar Lights by Nancy Sala of Kaleidoglass

Copyright© 2017 Kaleidoglass

About some of the Materials

These are the solar lights I use in these projects. I get them at Walmart. The top box I call classic, and the bottom I call globes.

Diamond core bits are the best to drill the hole for the Torch Solar Light.

I know it’s a little more expensive, but I like this “Instant Mix” Epoxy. It does cut a little time when I’m producing a few dozen solar lights at a time. I also like the durability. I have a few glass flowers in my garden, and have never had a problem with the epoxy deteriorating.

Most importantly, I used Creative Paradise Molds for all three projects. Pictured above is the LF156 Casted Mushroom mold.

Materials Slurry dish (best to use a 7” or bigger) 1 – Classic solar light 3’ - 1/2” copper pipe 1 – 90 degree or 45 degree copper elbow 1 – 1” screw with nut – I use #6 screws (see notes) 1 – 1.5” screw with nut – I use #6 screws (see notes) 2 part epoxy (clear) Creative Paradise molds I used GM04 Round Plate – 7.5” diameter GM211 Small Organic – 7” diameter Notes: � From experience, I found that it’s best to use a flower that is 7” to 8” round. Using this size will mask the solar light component. � For the screws, I actually prefer to get them a little longer, and then saw off the excess with a hand saw. This gives me a little wiggle room if I need it.

Slurry Flower Solar Light

1 – Make a slurry flower using a single layer of glass. I have found a single layer is perfect for this project. Then, slump into the GM04 or the GM211 mold  

2 – Take the black sleeve of the solar light, and saw the bottom at an angle. I am very comfortable using power tools so I use a circular saw to cut the angle. You can certainly use a handsaw also.  

3 – With a Dremel, drill 2 holes for the screws. One of them, half inch from the bottom, and the other about 1.5” from the bottom. This is the section that will attach to the pipe. You can clean the ragged edges with fine grit sand paper. hole well.

4 – With a drill press, drill a hole 5.5” from the top of the copper pipe, making sure that it goes all the way through to the other side. The screws should be able to fit through the hole well.

Slurry Flower Solar Light - continued

5 – Attach the black sleeve with the shorter screw to the copper pipe, using the hole that is a half-inch from the bottom of the sleeve. Once attached, clamp the pipe to the drill press, aligning the other hole on the black sleeve with the drill. Drill through the copper pipe all the way through to the other side. I found this to be the easiest way for me to align the holes on both the pipe and the black sleeve.  

6 – Attach with the longer screw, and add the solar light component to the top of the sleeve.  

7 – Using the 2-part epoxy, glue the copper elbow to the slurry plate. I prefer to wait 24 hours to let it set and dry completely before attaching it to the copper pipe.  

TIPS � I like to use a combination of the 90 and 45 degree elbows to give more interest. I had customers buying multiples of the flowers, and liked that they could choose different angles. � Since where I live is very tourist orientated, I do not glue the elbow to the pipe, so that the flower can be easily detached and transported. Many told me how much they liked that feature. Plus, it gives them the opportunity to hammer the pipe into the ground without hurting the glass flower. � Tell your customers that these also look great in big planters. I was surprised as how many found this clever. � I also reminded my customers not to forget to pull out the orange or green tag to activate the batteries. � I like to cut the copper pipe at 3’, but I also cut some at 2.5’. This gives the customer buying multiples, different heights to choose from. � When working with power tools, I always wear my leather gloves to prevent slippage, and my safety glasses. Safety is #1 in my book.

8 – Two views of the Flurry Solar Light. You can see that by using a 7” or larger flower, it masks the solar component.  

Materials Mushroom glass cap 1 - Globe solar light 2 part epoxy Creative Paradise molds I used LF156 or LF159 Casted Mushroom GM207 Flat Top Cap Notes: � This is probably the easiest of all 3 solar lights, but in my opinion, one of the most beautiful.

Mushroom Solar Light

1 – Make the mushroom cap using the tutorials on the CPI website.

2 – For the purpose of ease, take the black sleeve off the globe and set aside. The easiest way I found to epoxy the glass globe to the mushroom cap was to take a piece of heavy cardboard and cut a circle so that the globe fits through it very snuggly.  

3 – Place epoxy on the center of the underside of the mushroom cap. Place the cardboard template on top of the cap and put the globe through the hole making sure it touches the epoxy on the cap. I always make sure its nice and straight. I let the epoxy set and dry for 24 hours.  

4 – Replace the black sleeve to the glass globe.  

TIPS � I also reminded my customers not to forget to pull out the orange or green tag to activate the batteries. � Aside of using the casted mushroom molds, I also love to make single layer slurry mushrooms for this project. � I know some are concerned about using opaque (opal) frit to make these, or needing to leave a clear area at the top for the sun to get to the solar cell. I can tell you that you need not worry. I make them with opaque (opal) frit and the sun gets through fine. I tested several before attempting to sell them.

Materials   Floral former glass 1 - Globe solar light 1” EMT Conduit cut as follows: 1 piece at 1.5” long, and another piece at 1” long 2 Part Epoxy Creative Paradise mold I used GM03 Floral Former Notes: � I make the torches out of single layer glass. � I prefer to use opaque colors, so you don’t see the battery portion of the solar light � When working with power tools, I always wear my non-slip leather gloves, and my safety glasses. I recommend you do the same. Safety is #1 in my book.  

Torch Solar Light

1 – Cut a 6” x 6” piece of glass square. Using the bottom of the flower former, draw a circle around the center of the 6 x 6 piece. Also, mark the drainage hole, towards the edge of the circle.  

2 – Using a 1/4” or bigger diamond bit, drill a hole into the glass towards the edge of the drawn circle. This will be the drainage hole for those rainy days.  

3 – Decorate to your liking, remembering that it will be draped over the floral former, so no design necessary towards the center. Contour, or full fuse the piece. I love texture, so I tend to do these with a contour fuse. If you do use a full fuse, I would not worry about the contracting or “bonening” of the glass, since its going to be draped anyway. This is unless you don’t mind the look. Once cooled, drape over CPI’s floral former GM03.  

4– With the Epoxy, glue the 1.5” piece of conduit inside the center of the torch. This will hold the globe in place. Let this set and dry for 24 hours.  

Torch Solar Light - continued

5 – Put the black sleeve through the 1” piece of conduit, and epoxy in place.

6 – Turn the torch upside down (I use an empty frit container to stabilize it), and Epoxy the sleeve to the center of the glass. Let it set and dry for 24 hours.  

7 – Turn right side up, and insert the globe in.

TIPS � I like to remind my customers not to forget to pull out the green or orange tag, to activate the battery. � I’ve been making these for a while, and have not had any problems leaving them out all year round. Our New Mexico sun can be very harsh, and the winters cold, and have never had the epoxy deteriorate.