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P R O F E S S I O N A I , M E T H O D O F N E I ' D L I ] ' I H R } ] A D I N G

TEASING OTJ'I ' PROCESS

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FANCY WEAVI]S

HOW TO MAKE JOININCS

REWEAVING LINENS

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DESCRIPTION AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF WIDELY USEDFABRICS

A F1NAL WORD

THE FRENWAY SYSTEM Pagt 2

I N T R O D U C T I O N

A l t h o u g h a D i n t e n s e s e a r c h h a s b e e n g o i n g , ) r l d u r i n g t h e l a s t s e v c r a ly e a r s f o r j o b o p p o r t u n i t i e s , a v e r y s a t i s f y i n g o c c u p a t i o n , F R l l N C l lI N V I S I I I L ! l I t I t W E A V I N G , h a s b c e n o v ( r l o o k e d . I n l s e n s e , t h i s r s s u r -p r i s i n g b e c a u s e t h e o c c u p a t i o n d o e s n o t r e q u i r c f o r m a l o d u c a i i o n , d o e sn o t r e e u i r e g r e : r l s t r e n g t h o r u n u s u a L p h y s i c a l a l t r a c t i v c n e s s , d o e s n o tr e q u i r e e x p e n s i v e o f f i c c s p a c c o f e l a b o r a t e e q u i p m e n t , a n d d o e s r r o tr J c n r i r n C a s p e c i a l k n a c k f o l d e a l i n g w i t h l ) c o p l e . , { 1 l t h r t i s D c c t ' s s i l r . Ji s s u f l i c i c n t i n l e l L i g c n c e t o u n d e r s t a n d s i m p L c i l l s t r u c t i o l r s , n o r m a l L y ( ] -s i g h t - w i t h { ) f u ' i t h D u t g ) a s s c s , a ) r d t h r ' p n l i c n c e l o } e a r n t h c a r t a n d l op r a c t i c e i t t o p e r f c c t i o n .

I ' r o l J r L l y l h c . o l l s o n t h i s r | l { ) f r . e w i : r v i n g h a s g . r D | r . ( . l l r l i v u l y u t ) -n o t i c e d i s t h e g r c a t s e c r e c y w h i c h h r s h c r e t o f ( ) r e k e p t . r I I b u i i l i e wp 0 o p l e i n t h c ! r ' o r l d i n i g n o r a n c e o f t h o L c c h x i q u . s i r ) v o l v e d . l h r ' s ts(crt- ts have been c1()seIy guarde(i rrrr( l h:rnr led dow.r f rorn gorlcr;r t io tL)g ( r r ( r ' t r l i ( ) r l t o . r s ( . l c c t f { w . ' f l t c ( J n l ! ( x c ( r p t i o n s \ , ! ( ' r c l x ) r ) l ) l c w h r ) l , i r i dh u g c s u n r s i n o r d c r t o r e c ( i i v c k o w l ( d g c o f t h c i r r l . I l v c r y n o v i c ( . r ' ! jw ( : r v c . l r i l ( i 1 o s t x n d y e i r r s l s ; r n . r p p r 0 n t i c ( . .

' l h c t ( s L r l l ( r f L h i - t ) o l i c y h a s b o r ' n : r s l l a d i l y i n c r c a s i n g ( l c | l l l r n ( l t o rl h { s e l v i c c s o f ( x l ! r l s i n t l r , . l l ' t o i I ' r ( | l c h L r v i s i l ) t . j i t c w ( , ; L v i g , , f t ' o r Dt h ( ' v ( , r ! s m 1 l l n L r n r b , , r o f y I : o 1 , I t . w l 1 o i r I ' c c i r l ) l l ) L c o i g i v i [ g t h J l t s , . r v i c u .( l c ) n s c r l r L c n i l y , l l l , , s ( 5 l < j I 1 , r ( l r ( \ { ( , : L v c r : r c a n o l ) t i r i n g o o c l f r , ( | s f o r t h c w c r r . t <t h ( , v d o . A ) s o , l h c i h a v ( ' l l r l ) r ' r ' : j 1 i g ( ' l l \ l y s a c c . ) r d { , d s k i l l c d c r l l l s -

I n v i r . w o f l h l r f r c t t h r t i D t h e s e t i r n e s t h e d c r n i r n d f o r l x r r s r ) n s w h oc a n r ' c p i l i r b u r n s , s n n g s , 1 e a r s , o r w o r n p l { c e s i n a n y t y p e , r f c l o t hf a b r i c s o s k i l l f u l l y t h : r l ! h e d a m a g c c a n n L ) l s b o w , s o f i 1 r e x c ( r e c t s t h cn u r n b e r o f s u c h p e r s o n s i n t h i s ( ) c c u p a l i o n , t h c . r u t h o r s e r e s a c r i f i c i n gt h . t i a d i t i ! ) n o f s e c ! ' e c J i n o r d e r t h a l m o r c p p o p l ' m a J b e c o m e a w i t r co f t h i s v o c a t i o n a n d \ v i l l c n t c r i t . T h { r r c i s n o d a r r g e r t h : r t t h c f i e l d w i l lb e c o m c ( ) v c r c r o \ r ' d ! ' d , b e c a u s e t h { r r r , i s s o m u c b i n v j s i ) ) I c r o w e a v i n g t obc done and so few people who can do i t .

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THE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 3

' I ' h e r e i s c o D s i d e r a b l e s a t i s f a c t i o n i n l a k i n g a b e a u t i f u l c l o t h g a r -m e n t , t a b l e c o v e r , o r s o m e t h i n g e l s e o f w o v e n m a t e r i a l w h i c h h a s b e e nr u i n c d b y a c c i d e n t , c a r c l e s s n e s s , o r w e a r , a n d r e s t o r i n g i t t o i t sor iginal at tract ivcness and durabi l i ty. ' l 'b is is not rnere se\err lg o|m e D d i n g . T h i s i s t h c a r t o f r c w e a v i n g - r e p l a c i n g b y h a n d t h e I N D IV I D U A L t h i c a d s t h a t h a v e b e e n c l a m a g e d , f o l L o w i n g t h e s a m c w e a v e a st h e m a c h i n e o r h r n d - w e a v e r s t h a t p r o d u c e d t h e o r i f i n a l c l o t h _ T h coccup:r1ion ne\,cr bccorlres monotonous because the art of text i le-w e a v i D g h a s , t h r ( ) u g h t h c a g c s , c l . c : r t e d a n i n e s t i m a b l c v a r i e t y D f p a t -l e . o s b y r r 1 r ' r n s ( ) f v a r i a t i o n s i n w e a v j n g p a l t I r n s , c ( ) l o r . - . , a n d t h r e a d

l i u t f o r J l l i l s i n t r i c a c y , w o a v i r r g c a n b e l c a r n c d b y d i l i g ( j r ) l a n dp r ( ) g r ( s s i v r ) r p p t i c : r t i o r r o n l h c p a a t o f : r i r y n ( ) r m a l L y i n t c l l i g e n t p e r s o n .Likc :rny ncw urdcrtaking, rcweaving wi l l mrkc :r pcrson more fat iguedd u r i r ) g t h e f i r , r t s t : r g c s o f L ' a r n i n g t h i r n i t w i l l w l x r D t h . i f u n d a m o n l a ls t . I ) s i D t h e l ) f ( ) c ( i s s h a v r b c c o m o r u t o m a t i c . T h i s i s e s p e c i c l l v i r u c( ) i t h ( ( y c s . A s l ( ) n g x s o n ( ' s c y ( s i g h t i s n o r ' r n a l , c i t h c r w i l h o . w i t h ( ) u tg l l s s ( s , i r l l t h i l t r n y o n c r l c e d s i s p r o p e r t i g h t i n g r t t h o w o r k t l b l e .

O l l c r ' : r l x f s ' ) D l ) : r s n ) i , 5 t t r c d t h r ' : r r t ( , f I ' t ' w r a v i r ) 9 , h c o r : . l l L m i r . ys ( c k . L p o s i t i r ) o w i t h a r ! . w ( : i v i n A c o m l ) r n y , m a y s c t u p i r s h o p o f h i s o r 'hr)r own, or rn: ly pursue ihc work as : l prof i loblc hobby at hornr ' , I f thor o w c i r v ( f s t i r f t s i L n c w v c | l t u r ( i , s o m ( ) i n i t i i r l s o l i c i t a t i o n o f w o r k m a yb L r ) o c ( , s s a r y , b u t a f t L ' r t h e r ' x c r ' l l c n c e ( ) f l h L . w o r k r ) l a n s h i p h a s b € i e n( s t l b l i s h ( d , t l l c r c w i l l b c a n c n d L e s s s t r e a m o f c u s t o m c r s t o t h t . s h o p .J o b s r n a y b e r c l c r r c d t o y o u b y t r i l o r s a n d d r y c l e a n c . s : r s w e I L . H o w -( ' v e r , t h c b u s i n e r s s o f d j r e c t c l r s t ( r m e r s m r y b c c n c o u r a g e d b y p o i n t i n go u i l h a t t h c h a n d l i n g c ) ) l r g c s o f l r i l o r s a D d d r y c l e r n c r s c a n b e e l i -

L r o r d c r t r , a l t a i n t h c d e g r ( ' ( ( ) f c o r n p c t L - n c e n e c e s s a r y t o b u l l d . r n dn l a i l l t a i n r r t h r i v i n g r r ' w ( a v i n g b L r s l n e s s , o n c m u s t d o o x c e l l e n t i n v i s i b l er e w c a v i n g . I h i s y o u c a n l e a r n t ( J . l o b y c a r e f u l l y f o l l o w i n g t h e i n s t I . u c -t i o n s g i v e n i n t h i s n \ a n u a l , n c v c r s l i g h t i n g t h e p f a c l i c e s e s s i o n s o u t -I i n e d i n e . r c h s r c t i o n , a n d p r o c e c d i D g s l o w l y , s t e p b y s t e p . I f y o u p l u n g c

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i[to the learning process too hasti ly and unsystematical ly, y()u wil l be-come confuscd and discouraged. Read thc instructions sentence bysentence, paragraph by paragraph, section by section, lN SEQUENCE,making certain that you mastcr each before tackl ing thc ncxt one. Ifyou f ind something which is not cle.rr to you, go back over the in-structioi ls slclwly and careful ly, sentencc by sentence and phrasc byphrase, cioing c:rch movemcnt just ds i t is prcsented,

Grcal care h:rs bcen taken in prep:rr ing this rnanual of instruct ion.I t coulcl have bccn made muclr largcr to include detai led informationabout th() histor ical dcvelopment of many kinds of l r l . rnl and animal f i -bers for the rnanuf:rctLrre of thrc:rd, of fhc var iety of welrving rncl l rods,o f t h e g r i l d u a l i n l r o d u c t i o n o t l n : r c h i n e r y i n t ( ) t h { ' t c x t i l ( , \ \ , e a v i n g i n d L r s -t r y , o f t h ( ' ( l i s l ) l a c c m c r r t o f f a b r i c s b y n c r v l y d i s c o v e r c d o n c s , o f t h ec h a n g c s i n [ a s h i o n a n d l a s t e , c l c . I ] u l t h i s i n f o r m a l i o n , w h i l e i n t e r c s t -i r l g , w o u l d n o t i n c r ( a s e I h e v a l u o o f i h e l ) o o k , w h i c h w a s w r i t t e ns l r ' i c l l y f o f l h c p u r p o s o o i t e l l i r r g y o u t h c b ( s t w l y t o l o a r l l h o w t o d oF r c n c h l l l v i s i b l { ' R e w c i r v i n g . A d d i l i o n r l i n f o r m a t i o n w o u l d b e d i s t r a c t -i n g r n d c o n f u s i n g .

N ( ) e f f o r t h a s b t e n s p a r . ' d i n t h e x t i c m p l t o m a k ( ) y o u a n e x p e r tc r i , r f i s m i r n . ' l h e i n s t r u c t i o n s h a v c b e c r p u t i n t h c s i m p l ( s t p o s s i b l ( ) l a n -g u a g ( i . ' f h o r c a f o d I ' r w i n g s i l n d p h . r l o g r . r p h s d e s i g n L ' d t o r n l k c t h e t e x ts t i l l c l o a r e r . E v c n s a m t ' l € - ' s o f c l o t h h a v e b e c n p r o v i d e d i n o r d e r t h a tyou rn:ry uDcl(rstand better and pract ice from thc v(ry b.ginning. Inas-m u c h a s r e w c a v i n g n e c d l L r s a r e i m p o r t e d a n d d i f f i c u l t t o p u r c h a s c ,t h e s e a r e a l s o p r o v i d e d . T h i s m a n u a l i s t h e o n l y o n e o f i t s k i n d . I t i sa u t h e n t i c a n d c o m p l c t c .

Now let us begin to lc.rrn this pleasant :rnd prof i table art .


PREPAR ING TO LE AR N

EQUIPMENT NECESSARY

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l l xpe r i cnce has shown tha t i t i s bes t t o have each worke r supp lyh i s own sc i sso rs , tweeze rs , t h imb lc , and da rn ing need les and l a rgesa fc t y p ins fo r f as tene rs . However , reweav ing need les o f asso r t cds i zes a re supp l i edw i th th i sm: rnua l , s i nce they a re d i f f i cu l t t opu rchase ,

The imp lemen ts w i l h wh ich you ou t f i t you rse l f shou ld mee t t hc fo l -lowing spccif ic:rt ions :

' l ' h c s ( w i n g s c i s s o r s s h o u l d b e n o n - t a r n i s h i n g ( p r { r f e r a b l y p l a i c d )a n c l n o i c x c c c c l f o u r i n c h e s i n l e n g t h . O f c o u r s e , t h e y m u s t b e s h a r pa n d w c l l m a d e i n o r d c r t h a t s n i p p i n g c o a r s e t h r ( a d s w i l h t h c p o i n t s c : r nb c d o n c c a s i l y .

' fhe tweezers (forceps) must be of good quali ty so that the pointswil l " justi fy" - come logether exactly. You probably know how hard iti s t o p luck an eyeb row w i th poo r l y made tweezers ; consequen t l y , youreaL ize how use less they wou ld be on a reweav ing task .

The thimble requircd must be a regular one, that is, one with anencloscd end. Perhaps you need to bc reminded that a thimble shoLrldfi t the middle f inger of your sewing hand - not too loosely and not tootightly.

For fastening material to be rewoven, No. 5 darning [eedles areexcellent, for they have sharp points and length without being dispro-po r t i ona te l y t h i ck . La rge sa fc t y p ins a re . t l l r i gh t , t oo . No t so sa l i s -fac to ry a re l a rge s t ra igh t p ins , f o r t hey usua l i y a re qu i te th i ck andhave rather blunt points.

TIIE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 6

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l a c w ( , i r v i u g i s d o r t ( i r l t t l r , l ) l ( o r d L r s k : - o P r , , v i d r ' \ ' o u I s , l f w i t h t h If o l l 0 w i n g ;

A w o r ' h t a b k r , 3 0 o r ' : i L i n c h { s l r i g l L , r , i l h i r t o l ) i r t ) t ) r o x i n r i r t ( l v : j 0 x2 0 i n c h e s .

AD ad jus tab le , f l uo rescen l l amp , J r re ie rab l y w i th two tubes to e l -iminatc f l ickerl irg-

A straight chair that f i ts your body contours in order to minrmizefatigue.

'T TIE FRLNWAY SYSTEM

L a t e r , S f t e r y o u b a v e a d v a n c e d t o l e a r D i D g a n d p r a c t i c i n g r e w F r v ) n go n c l o t h m a d e o f f i n e t h r e a d s , . y o u n r a y f i n d i t e d s i e r i l y o u i i - e l l n o p -t i c a l a i d f o r m a g n i f i c a l i o n . S u r l l a n a i i L i s k u o w n a s l l . i g n i - S r A l n t rt s i n o c u l a r L o o p s , l l u l d o n ' t p u r c h a s c t h i s r i g h t a 1 v a y , f o r . y ( ) u t . r ' y c sw i l l a d j u s t g r : r d u a l l y t o l h t i i f n e ! v t a s l ( a s y o u b e c o n r o m o r . e r c c U s i o n l e dt o t h c w o r k : 1 n d r c r n a i D n r o r , ' r e l i r x e i l i r s y o u w o r k .

' I h c r c i r r { ' w c a v i n g r c e d l e s N ( J s . 0 , 7 , t J , 9 a n d 1 0 w i l h t h i s m i l n L r l l .N o . ( j r n d 7 a r e u s c d o l r c o a r s c c i ( ) i h , N o . i ] : r n d N o . 1 l ( n r m ( ' d i u m l i ,f i t t c t f t | t ' : r d c d i n t o r i a l , a l r d N o . l 0 o n f i n e a n d v o | y f i n c w ( n v ( s .

I l i s w i s c t o k e ( ' p o n h a n d r r n e m . r y b a g t h r ( ) u g h w h i c h y o u s h { ) u l d' ) c ( i l s i o n r l l y r u n y o u r n e . d l c s i n o r ' ( i o r l ( ) k c ( p t h ( n r s r n ( x r l h . I r r ) ) r , yl ' . t ' , r r . h i r s , J j , . , r \ ' . . . ' F r \ , l l r g , s i r . r _ , , t u i t , n . r , .

A p i l l o w o f c o a r s e f e i r t h L ' r s o r o f k a p o k , a b o u t l l J t o 1 5 i n c h c ss q u : r r c , l o w h i c h y o u w i l l f a s t e n t h c m a t . r r i i r l w h i c h v ( ) u . r r ' o i e w " r v i n g .' l e c k t h e p i l l o w t o t h c t o p o f y o u r r o r k t a b l e t h u s : ' l ' a c k d o w n t h e f r o n te d g e , p u s h l h e f e a t h c r r s o r k a p o k l o w a r d t h e b a c k i n o r d e r l o r n a k c t h ob a c k o f t h e p i l l o w h i g h e r t b a n t h e f r o n t , t h e n t a c k d o w n t h c b a c k e d g eof the pi l low f i rmly.

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l , . r t ) c r i ( ' n c L ' h a s t a u g i r l u s t h r t p e o p l e g o l t i n g r e a r l y f o r l r i r i , r i n g i nr t ' w r ' i r v i r ) g , r r ( ' o f t c n s o l ( , r ) s c l h i r l t h e y f i n d i t h a r d t o f ( ) l l ( ) w ; r r r . l 1 ( r f c -r n c r n l r ( , r ' o r ' : r l i n s t r u c t i ( , n s , A l s c t , p r : r s o n : ; w h o h a v c l ) e c ( ) l n ( . , x l ) ( r tw ( ' l v ( r s f i n d i l h a . d t ( ) l e a c h n e w p ( o p l c , f ( ) r t h c y h a v c f o r g o t t ( . n . i L r s iw h a i ( t i f l i c u L t i c s a n d f c c L i n g s t h c y h a d w h e n t h c y f i r s l l e a r n f d . F u r t h c r -m o r { ' , t h c e x l ) c r t s . r r e v ( r y b u s y a n d o f t ( : n m , r s i i n t c r r u p t t r a i n i n g \ , . ss i o ' ) s i D ( ) r r l L r ' 1 o l e n d t o s o D r . ' s l ) r ' c i ; r l w ( ) r k .

l ' h e r ( r f o r c , t h i s m a o u r l w i l l t L r c h y ( ) u b o w 1 o l ) ( ' c ( ) r n c : r n ( x p r : r t r c -w o i r v r r w i t h ( ) u t h a v i n g 1 ( ) r ( ' l y ( ) n s o m t ' o n e p c r s ( ) n t o l r i L i n y r ) l l . t l s el h L s n r i r n u a L a s i r t { ) x t b o o k - I t a t h c - r t h : u I l c a r n : L r r y I r i ' r t ( ) i t h ( r ( \ r , , , r v r n d

I ) r o . j , : i s i c o r r e c t l y , w . i t ( i t o u s , i l i l r ) . y t h i n , j i r l l x , l ( x t l ) o t ) l ( r s n o tc ( ) r r l ) l ( l I l y c l . r a r t o y o u i r s y o u g o s y s t o r n a t i c a l l y t h r o L r g h t l l ( i n s l l . L r c t i o n s .

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c e s s c a s i ( , r 1 o e x p l a i n , w l t c n c l ( ) t h i s n l a d e t h e t h r c . r c l s f a s t e n e d 1 l ' n g t h -

N i \ r ' i r r l l l ( ) { ) l l r o r e k ) ) o u n u s t h u W a r p a n d t h o s e i n t c r l l c e d t h r ( ) u g l r t h e 'W : L r ' p c r o s s r ' . ' i s r ' a r c c - t L l c d i h e W o o f . I ' h c r e f o r e , w ! r L v i n g i s c l o r n r w h c nt h c W o ( ) f i s f , ] s s r ) d o v e r a n d u n d e r i h e W a r p w i t h | l a r l n ( ' d r e g t l l a r i t y .

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PICTURE NO. 2 - Thi3 is rhe top o l rhe work desk 3howing proper p lo4emenrdnd 5 i :e o{ the p i l low. Not ice how rhe p i l low is io .k€d ro rhe desk ot {ourcorncrs - Also observe o l l the recesso'y equiphent - sc issors, iwe€zers, th im-ble ond spool o{ ihreod - Tf i€ solety p ins ond lorge needles stondinq upr ight oreus€d io fost€n rhe sdrmenr io rhe p i l low whi le i t is Leins rewoven. The ieedlesly ihg on rhe p i l low ore rhe French Inv is ib le re*eovins needles wi t f i which youhove been suppl ied. Nof ice lhe Emery Bog berween rhe rweeaers ond rh inble.

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l ] ( l o w v o u s c c i r s i l n l ) l ( o u ( . - a r ( l - o r ) ( ' \ i ' ( i r v ( o n l h r . r e w o i g h t s o f c l o t h ,c ( ) 3 r ' s o , r r ( , d i u m , l n c l f i n c .

\ 4 h c i r e . r c h t h r o a d o f l h e W o ( ) f ( c r . ) s s l h r ( , a d ) g o e s o v e f o n ( . t h r e a L lo f t h c \ | a r p ( l o r ) g t h t h r e r . l ) , t h e n u n d c r t h c n c \ t s i D g l p t h r ( , c d , r h i l n o v e ri h , : . t h i . d , u n d ( r t h ( - f o L r r t h , e t c . , t h ( r ( s u l t i s a p i e c c o f c i o t h h r L v i n gl : , i m p l e " b r s k c t r , e a v c " . L : x : r r ) r p l ( - s o i l h r s ! y p ( , ( r f w ( _ , : r v e a r ' ( . o r d i l l a r . yt w ( , ( d s , w h i c h h : r v ( ' c o a i s c t h 1 ( ' : r d s , r n d t r . o p i c : 1 l , , \ ' ( ) r s t r ) d s , w h i c h h i L v es n r o o t h , f i n ( ' t h r e r d s . l r o r s i r ] r t j I i c i r

" \ . , V i : i u r l g r ' : | r 1 w l l s d r a $ , n : l s : r( ) r 1 ( . - i u t d - o n c o r l ) r s l ( c l w c r v c , . r l t l r ( , r L l h i t c 0 u l d h . r v c j l l u s t r n l . d l n r o r . cc o n r p L ( , x w c a v e l ) l l l c | n .

A s i r l r ) r , t u ' ( ) r l r l L w o w c a v I i s t h ( ) r 0 s L r i i \ , , l r e n o i r c t r t h n | r d o f L h ( ,W ( ) L ) f ( c r o s s l h r ' c r 1 c l ) l ) r s s c : i ( ) v c l ' t h ( n L \ t l \ I , o t h r . ( i r r t s o f 1 h ( i \ \ , r r r . p ( l e n g t ht h r ( ' i r d ) , t h c n L r ] r ( l e r l h { r 1 1 ( ' x t l w ( ) , l l r i , r , r , r , r ' r . I h c n ( x l . t ) r r i r , ( t c . l l e r l ' i n g ,l , r r r r r ' l w i l l i s r r r n o r ( j c o m t ) l e x w , i , v r - . $ h i c h m i k ( s I I I t ( , r . r I I I t . ( I d i i r g o n l l ll r r ) ( s i i r l h ( ' l ) i r i l . c r . n g o i n o p p o s i l r ' d i r { , c t i r ) r r s .

Y o u n ) L r s l I ( ' i r r n l h c s { v , r r i o u s p r t t ( l i ) s i n ( ) r d ( r 1 o r c w c r r v ' d i r m ; , A r : r l( : ' r n r ( ' n t : , c ( ) r r ( c l t J . l J U l ( 1 o n ' t ! ! o r r . \ , , ! ( ) u w i i i i ( , l r n ( ) n c s l ( l ) : r r r l t i n r r ) ,i ' ( i m t l r c s i r r t ) l c s l i o t h r ) m o s t c ( ) m l , 1 c x , w i r h I , L ( , n l y ( ) f t i r n L , t o r . t l . i r c r i c ( ,i L l e u c h s l ( . 1 ) . Y ( , u w i l L k i r r n : r n d t r r l c t i c ( o t l s l m t ) l ( i s , i n c l u d i r r g r h ( ) s (f r r r n i s h c ( t w i t l l l h i s r t r n n l l , u n t i [ , V o ( l . w ( ) r k i s f i n l l l J g o o d c D o u g l l f o r) o u t ( ) t ) c a l l o w o d l o c o m m o n c c r e w ( : r v i n g d i r l l ] i l g c d p l a c c s i n g a r . m . , n r s .( l o r l r i c l . u r f s r L n d d c s c r i p t i o n ( ) [ t l l ( , m . ) r r ] c o r n m o n l ) u s c d f : r b r r c s s c ( ,p r r q c s i i g l n d ? 0 ) .

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I n o r d e r - n o t t o f a l l i n t o a D y p o o r w o r k h a b i l s , y o u m u s t f l r s t { r n t h es a m p l e s f o r l e a r n i n g j u s t a s y o u w o u l d a g a r m e n t b e i n g p r e p a r e d f o rr ( ) w e a v i n g . A l w a y s p i n t h e c l o t l t s c c u r e l y t o t h e c u s h i o n o n y ( ) u r w o r kt a b l c w i t h s c v c l a l o f t h e h e a v y d a r n i n g f l e e d l e s o r p i n s . ' f h c c l o t h m u s tb c f a s t e n e d f i r m l y i n o r d c r t o p r e v e n t " d r a w i n g " . I t i s h i t r d t o f o l l o wt h e t h r e a d s o f c l o t h w h i c h " d r a w s " f o r t h e n t h c t h r e a d s r r e n o t l J i n g i nt h e i r n a t u r r L L y s t r a i g h t r o w s .

A d l u s t y ( ) u r l l r m p s o t h 3 1 y o u c i r n s ( . e t h e t h r c a d s c l ( a r l y .

I l e g i n w c l r i n g y o u r t h i m b l e w h c n y o u w o r k . M l n y p ( o t ) k , h a v o t og o t a c c u s t o r n e d t o w e a r i n g a t b i r n b l { r , b u t u s L ] o f ( ) m i s n e c ( s s . J i no r c l e r t o p r e v c n t g c t t i n g a p a i n f u l l ! s o r c f i n g c r f r ( ) n r l ) u s h i n g l h e n ( i d l ( ,ihrough thr fa Lr r ic s.

A s y o u u ' 6 1 k , h o l d t h c c l o t h i i r m l y , b \ r l n o t s ( ) ' , i g h ' . l y t t r n t i t w i l td r a w . U s u ! h r . n e e d l e w i t h y o u r r i g h t h a n d . Y o u r l e f t h a n d w i l l b e h o l d -i n g t h e c l o t b , w i t h y o u r l c f t t h u m b r t u i t c c l o s e l o t h r l i n c o f t h e t h r o a dy o u a r e r c \ v e ; r v i n g a t t h e m o m e l t l . ( ) 1 c o u r s e , i f y o u a r ' e l e f t - h a n d e d ,you hold the cloth lJvi th thc r ight hJnd and use the needle with your lef t .

Pic tu re #4 shows thc c lo th f ^s t cned to the p i l l ( )w and the p rope rho ld ing pos i t i on . You w i l l f i nd th i s i s t he pos i t i on ( ) [ n rax imum com-fo r t and case .

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EX E RCISE NO. I

ITI ITS'f I ' ITAC'I ' IC] E I ]XERCISE

Y()u h.rv() been giv€rn a sarnple () f a simple bi tsket weavc. l t is mrrrk-c d S o m p l e N o . 1 a D d i s a i w e e d . N o t ( ' t h a t t h e w e . { v e ( ) f c a c h t h r c a d i so v L ' r o n L ' w a r p ( l e n g t h ) t i r r e a d , u n d e r t h c n e x t , o v c r t h e t h i r d , r ) t c .

' lhc sample on which you are lcarning probably has l jghter woof(cross) thr 'eads than it has warp (length). I t is easier to s(- 'e and to fol-low a l ighi thread. This wil l make practicing easier.

IHE FRENWAY SYS TE II 'T

P ick up a n l ' ed le and beg in 1 ( ) l r acc one o f t he r voo f ( c r -oss ) t h rcadsby i nse r t i ng the need le L lnde r l 1 w . r rp ( l eng tb ) t h re {d , t hcn go ing ovc rthenex twarp th reud , L lnde r t he nex t , ove r t he ncx t , . r t c . Re espec ia l l yca re fu l t o b€ . gu ided a l l t he t imc by the same woo f i h . { r xd . l t i s soeasyto ge t o f f t he t rack tha l you shou ld p rac t i ce th i s i r t l o : r s t a dozen t imcs .

I ) o t h ( s l ( l ) o n c e m o r c a n d l L a v e t h e t e e d l e i n t l l l , f a l ) r . i c . W i t l r i ln o t h e r n e c d l . , l r a c e l h e w o o f { c r o s s ) l h r e a d j u s t b o l o u l h e f i r s t o n ( , i ) re x s c l l i t h ( . s . r m . i 1 r 3 J . I f i r h : i s l r e e n d , ) n c c r ) r r t , c t l ) , ) o u r v i l l s e e t h i r lw h { r r e v e r t h c f i r s t w o o i ( c r o s s ) t h r e i r d g o ( ] s o v e r i t \ { . i r p ( l c n g t h ) t l l r . e a d ,t h e s c c o n d w o . i f t h r c a d g o e s u n ( l . r i t ; w h e r ( v c r l h r , t j r s t w o o f j h r r , : r dg o c s u n r l e f i L w a r p l h r c a d , t h e s . c o n d w o o f t h r c a d g o r s o v ( , r i 1 . S e cV i s u a l g r l m i l .

VISUALGRAM NO. 3 - This .hoe. . needle r roc ing one wo.{ rhreod on o . impleone ond on€ w€ove. Nor i .e how rh. ocedlc goes under on. warp rhrcod, over rhenet t {orD lhr .od und€r th. n€r t ond 30 on.

THE FRENWAY sY s T!. rvr Page I5

EXERCISE NO. 2

PRACTICE WITI I T } IREADED NEEDLI ]S .

A f t . r r ) o u h a v e c o . . c c t l y t r a c e d s e v e r a L u o o f ( c r o s s ) l h r e r r ( l s u ' l r L c l r

r u n i u s t b e l o w o i l c h o t h c - r , Y o u a r e r e o d v t o { r r a c t i c ( \ ' i r i r t h r e : t ' r " r

n c c d l e s . S D y o l r D r L r s t l e a r n t h r : p r o f c s s i o n a l w a y l o t h l a r a d a r l c ( d l L '

. T I f t ] A I T l ' O F T I I I T L J A D I N G A N E F ] I ) L F ] .

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n ( v c r l r i c d t o l h r c e d i 1 n c c d l c w r t h a c o a r s c w o o l t h r c a d b c f o r e . T l l c

p r o f e s s i o r l a l w a y i s m u c h c a s i t ) r t h e n t r ' l / i n g t o p o k e l r a \ v , e r r s i l y f r a y ( ' d

c n d t h r ( ) u g h t h c e y c . r f i L n e e d l e . l l L r t c v c n t h r l ) r o f e s s i o r l l l l w a y h a s t ( )

l ) r ' d o n c h u n d r c d s o f l i J r r e s r n ( r ' d e r i o b e r c c o n ) l r l i s h ( t l s r n ( ) ( ) t h l J " S r )

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f o r ( f i n g ( r ( i n d c x f i n t j t r ) - w i l h t h ( l h r ( r l d b 1 ' t \ ! e t n t h ( m - j u s t u n d ( r l l r '

n | c . t l c , \ ! h i c h i s h c l d h o r r z o n t a l l y , S , r ( V i s u i l l g r i r r n N o . 4 : r n d p i c t u r ( ' N o '

5 . W h e r r y o u m . r k e t h o l o o p , d o s o i n s u c h a w a y l h r r l t h r l c w i l l b o v | r y

l i l t ] l d o u b l e d t h r e r r d b e l o w t h e p a r t l o o P c d o v c i l h ( r n c c d l e . M a k e t h c

l o o p i l s l i A h l : r r o u n d t h c n e c ' d l c l r s p o s s i b l o , h ( ) l d i n g l h L ' i h u I n b n a i l t i g h t -

L Y r g r i n 5 t t h . f o r ( f i r l l t e t . l ) r ! w r h t t h r e . r . l o t f l h e e y e - e n ( l o f l h c I r c c ' l L c

a n d p u s h t h ( t i n y l o o , i t h r o u g h t h c r ' y c . V i s u a l g r . r m N o 5 i r n d ) ) i c t u r P N D '( i . l ' u 1 1 t l ) o e n l i f e L i o u b l e d p o r ! i o l r o f t h e l h r L a d t h r o u g h t h t ) n ' r ( r r l l P r r r

o r d e r l o k ( c p t h t t h r c a d f r o n l c o n i n g o u t w h o n t h e n e e d L e i s b c i n g u s e c l '

N ( ) w y o u c a D s e c w h j ' y o u s h o u l d n o t s t a r i w i t h t o o l r r g e a l o o p - i t i s

t o o h l r d t o p u l l a l o n g d o u b l c d t h . e a d t h r o u g h t h e e y e o t a n e e d l ( i - V i s

u a l g l a m s N o s , . i a n d 5 a n d P i c t u r e s N o s 5 ' 6 , a n d ? d c D r r ) n s l r ' r i e r l ) L

l h r ' e a d i n g p r o c e s s . S t u d y t h e m c a r e f u l l y , b u t r n o r e i r n P o r t r n t , p r : r ' l r c i -

l h i s n \ a n ) , m a n y i i m c s .

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l ) i c t u r c , s N o s . 5 , t j & 7 s h o w i n g t h e n c c d l c t h r c ' a c l i n g p r o c e s s d o n o t

s h o l v t h e n . e d l c i n s e r t e . . l i l l l h e c l o l h . ' I h i s w a s d o n e l o i l l u s l r a l e m o r ec l { ] a r l y t h e p r o c e d u r e . I l o \ \ ' e v e r , i n p r a c t i c e a n d w o r l < a l u a y s h a v e t h e

needle i l1 the cloth lvhen i t is being thre:rded as s i lo\r 'n in VisualgramsN o s . , l a n d 5 .

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Ac tua l l y , a4 expe r t reweaver does Do t t h read the nced le un t r l a f t c rhe has woven i l t h rough the c lo th ; consequen y , you a rc to do l i kew isef t ' om noB. on , When you f i r . s t 1 rv i l , . vou w l l t r ea t i zc w l ] y so m l rch p rxc -t i ce i n j us t t h read ing thc necd lc was so v ; r l u i l b1e .

Now that you have leafned io thread a l rcccl lO thc prof( ,ssion t w.y,l ( . i u s r ( , v i c w t h r - s t e p o u t l i n ( , d i n l h e U x c r c i s e N o . 1 .

) ) r a c t i c e w ( a v i n g o v c r i r l t r c l t h f e a d s w i t h l h e r r ) p l a c e | r r e n t l h r e a L ] s ." R c p l : r c e " f i r s t 1 w o t h f e i r d s , t h e n t h r e e t h r e i r d s n e x t t o ( , : 1 c r r o r n e rh ( f o r c l ) r o c c c c l i n g .

. f I IE F'RENWAY SYSTE M

E X ER CISE NO.3

A F I ] I T T H I ] R S T I ' P

After' you hlve practiced weaving thr.eads over intact threacjs rn Lncsamp le un t i l , you no l onger make c r ro rs , ) , ou : r r ( - ready fo r t he nex ts tep .

Use the b lun t ( , nd o f a nccd le to l i f t : r l oop o f a woo f ( c ross ) t h readallcl snip thc ]<rop with the scissors. Lise the neecile to gently unr;rvelt hecu t t h read f rom the weave fo r a l eng th o f abou t one i nch . i c rea i te rthis Llnweaving process wil l be called ,,teasing out. "

Snip the thread again to get r id of the inch that has been teascu our.

T IIE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 20

You are ready to replace the poit ion of thread just snipped awaywith a new thread of lhe same color. Do this by going over, under,over, under, etc, the warp (length) thrcads in the gap along th€r l ine whcrethe woof thread was taken out, with your needle. Now thread your needle,draw i i through and see whether the replacement thread takes the placeof the origin:r l one correctly.

I lemove the replacement thread and repeat this practice step not lessthan a dozen t ime s .

NOTE: This is :r most imporiant point l Al l wr)aving is donc on ttrc"R igh t S idc " o f t hc ma tc r i a l . Thc ma te r ia l i s p inncd to the p i l l ow s . Jth ( " l t i gh t S idc " i s f ac ing yo l r .

W h i l e w e a v i n , j i n a r e l ) l a c o r n e n t t h r e a d i n t h e w o o f ( c r o s s l h r c r d )a l w a y s l e a v c i t s l i g h t l y l o o s c , t h i s m l k e s e a s i ( ' r t h e r e w e a v i n g o f t h ew a r p w h e n e v e r l h a t i s n ( c e s s a r y . W h c n e v e r y o u f i n d i h a t t h c n c w w o o fi s i o o t i g h t , I o o s . ' n t h c r c p l a c ( ' r r r c n t t h r c a d s g o n t l y l l n d i n d i v j . l u i r l l ya t o r x r s i d ( ' w i t h t h e t w c . r z e r s .

Whcn y()u have thoroughly m:rstcred the technique of replacing ' rrew o o f ( c r o s s t h r e l d , r ' ( m o v ( a o n ( ) i n c h p o r t i o r r o f i h c n c x t i h r c : r r d b c l o wt h . f i r s t l n c l r c p l : r c c t h { t w o t h r c a d s i n t h { ' s r m ( i w i L y . D o t h i s o v c r a n do v . r . l , : a c h t i m ( ' y o u r 0 p l i r c o r t h r ' ( ' a d , s t u d y t h c r c s u l t s . 1 , 1 r s u f t ) i th a s t h e f i g h t r e l a t i o n s b i p l o l h ( | w o o f ( c r o s s ) t h | c l d r b o v e i t .

Next, remove the next thread bclow lhe second and replace thethree thread gap unt i l you can do i t wi ihout making a mistake,

Practice with four consecutive woof (cross) threads to replace andthen f ive. Learn to do this without making an error.

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Remember: When you have more than one thread to replace, weavcf i r s t , t he th read l opmos t , o r f a r thes l f r om you ; t hen do the th re r . l j us tbe low i t , e t c . WI len the manua l men t ions ad jaccDt th reads , i t mL ,a r ) shav ing th i s so f t o f I e la t i onsh ip to eac i o the r . / \ l r vays cc )ns idu r l l ) L ' -t h read j us t above the one you a rc rep lac ing as the gu ide th read .

.T HE FRENWAY SYSTI ] M I ' a g e : l

I ]E CAREFUI-I DO NOT PRACTICE THIIS!] S'I ' ! ] I 'S INCOITITI,J C'f L Y.DO NOT DRILL IN THE WRONG WAY' I 'O R I ]TYVI ]AVT. LEAITN ' fC )DO IT R ICHT.

l j e f o r c l e : r r n i n g a n y t h i n g r c a l t y n e w , y o u l r e l o d r i l l y o u r s c l f n e x ti n r e p l a c i n g o n e , t w o , t h r e e , l o u r , a n d f i v e t h r e a d s i n g a l ) s , o r b f t ' : 1 1 < s ,r ) f : r b o u t 1 - 1 / 2 i n c h e s .

w h e n f ) l ) i n A i r r a d : l m a g e d l e n g t h o f I l / 2 i n c h ! , s - ( ' v r ' n w h L ' l f i v ( 'adj :rceni throads i j r .c out - is ^ot di f f icul t lo d() uny l {)nger, nlake th( ib r ( a k s i n t t r c \ ' ( ) o f ( c r o s s ) t h r e a d s a b o u t t w o i n c h { r s . F o l l o w t h e s . r m ( )l)roccdr.rrc as b.fore. Roplxce just one two inch woof thread f i rs l andd o i t s e v ( ) r a l t i m o s ; t h c n r e p l a c e t w o a d j a c e n t w o o f t h r e a d s , r l s o r e -

I X a t i n g t h o e x ( i r ' c i s o r n a n y t i m e s ; n c x l r e p l a c e l h l . e o a d j a c e n t t h r ( : n d s ,p r a c t i c i n g a s b c f o | c ; t h e n d o f o u r t h r c a d s , a n d f i n i l l y , f i v c .

w A I t P ( L l , i N c ' , l ' ) T H I T E A D S M U S I t J H R T . T W O V H N f O O .

I nasmuch as mos t damage to ga rmen ts a f fec ts thc warp ( l cDg th )th rpads as o f ten as the woo f , you D t s t p rac t i ce rep lac ing w . r rp th r .adsi r s we l l . Do th i s l ) y uDp inn ing the c lo th and rep inn ing i t so tba t i hc war ' pw iLL l i e c rossw ise on the cush ion . Now p rac t i ce reweav ing j us t a r youd id be fo re . P robab ly the th reads you have to f i r s t t r ace , t hen r r -p lace ,arc darker than those of the 1.!oof; therefore, you wil l learn how iotrace darker threads easily while you are improving your ski l l .

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THIJ FttENWAY SYSTEM t'age 22

EXERCISE NO. 4

THE "PROIJLEM' ' OF EXTRA 1 'HICKNESS

L U A I T N I N C " D I I ' I J I N G ' '

Replace bre.Lks in scvcral adjacenl threeds in the wirv \ , () \ r hav{)l c a r n e d , b u t b e g i n t o r c w e a v e a l o n g t h e i n t a c t t h r . , a d s f o r a s h o r t c t r s ,tancc befofe relching the damage and coni inue t() weave for a simi l : rrd i s t a n c c a f t e r r . c p l a c i n g t h c b r o k L - n t h r e a d s . \ o u w i l l n o t i c c r ) o u L n a rt h e " 3 o i n c d " a r e a a r o u n d t h ( d a D ) a A c d p l a c e w i l l l : a v e t r v i c r . , r s r D i r r r yl h . c a d s a s b e i o r c ; r n d \ , " i t l , t h , , r e f o r e , f c , r l t h i c k e r a n ( 1 r n ( ) r . r , ) ( L r ( )

' f h c n e x l s t e p s e x p l a i n h o w i h . r c p l a c c m c r l t t h . e : r d s i r t o : L r c n o r c f ra n d h o w t h e { r x t r l t h i c k n e s s i s m i r d c i n c o n s l ) i c u o u s .

E XERCIsE NO. 5

' f h e t e c h n i q L r c o f d i p p i n g i n t , ' r ( , n c h I n v i s i t ) l ( , R ( . w u l l v i n g i s r h ( . t r . i r cl i c e o f s t i c l < i n g t h c n e c d l t : t h r o u g h t h e c l o t h r n c l r a k i n g a r . r t h e r l o n gs t i t c h - a b o u i l / 2 i n c h f o r t h e c o u r . s e m a t c r i a L . , n w h i c h y o u a r . ( . t ) r . ! L c -t i c i n g - b e f o r e c o m m e n c i n g t o r e w e a v e , a n d t i l l { i n g a s i m i l a r . s r r l c Da f t e r y o u h a v e I e w o v e n p a s t t h ( , d . t m a g e d a r e a . V i s u : l l g r a m { j i 1 l u s _Lratcs dippingj sL-r ' fo l lowing pag-,

-

A l w r ! s d i t ) r r l o u g 1 i 1 ( L i n . ( ) f 1 . h o l h r ( , i i d w h i c l t i s l ) r ' ( ) l { c n . I f y o u , l o r L ' ll i ( e t ) l l r ( ( l i t ) s r ) r a l i n ( \ { i 1 l r y o u r r \ ' \ r ' e r v i r ! 1 , _ v ( ) u i r r ( c o r t r i n l o g { t c ot u s c d l n ( l m r L k . r m i s t a l < c i n y o u r ' w o f k .

N ( ) l ' l i : Y o u i n L r s t s t i r r t 1 1 ( l L l ) [ , ' r t r ' l ) l a c i r l g 1 1 s ( ' c ( ) n d t h r ( ] . r ( l . i u s t i ll i t t l e i ; r r l h c r ; r w a y l r o m t h , : d i L m i r c r r l t ) l : r c o t h : l n y o u h r d l , ) i ( ) . l h ( f L l ' s tl l r l ( , r d - I ' l r i s m c r n s , r l s o , i h x t t h r ' ( l i t , ( ) n t h c o l h ( ' r s i d u ( ) f t h c ( l i , r r l i r A .

\ i i l l l x ' f i r r t h e r a w r - v f r , : , r n t h ! c l i r r . r j t , r 1 l r . L f , ' . h r ( l i l ) i r l ) r ) \ 1 , i t . L i i * i ' i . ll h i d i l , s f o f t h c t h i r ( l r ' ( ' p l i r c e n r , - n i r h r c j r ( l n 1 L r s 1 l ) c t r r r l h L : r ' f l ' o r ) ) t h r

d . r r r r a g r . d i L r ' € ' e l h a r r t h e d i l ) s f ( ) r ' r J r ' . { c , ) r ) ( 1 . I l ( ^ " ' c ' v c r , l h , ' ( l i l ) s t L , I r l l

f ( ) ! r ' l h r ' { p l a c o n r e n L a r r 1 o l \ , l h ( ' s : r r i r , d i s l a n c ( r v , u } a < w r r L ' t h L , l i l ) s

f o r l h | f i r s l r o p l r r c c n r e u l . A s v o L r u i l I l ( a r n s h o r l l y , t h ( ' s i r l i 1 ' s l ' t , t i , r {

L . f t h e d i p s i s c . r u s e d b y s r r i r s r , t ) t ) i r ) g ( ) f l r l c . " i ( ) i r 1 i n g s " .

THE F ITENWAY SYS ' I ' LM l 'ag. : l : l

VISUALGRAM NO. 5 - This i l lu l t rore3 d ippine. Nor ice how rh6 needle i : in-serred under the c loth for o d i l lon<. hcrc o{ seven threods b.{ore dcfudl w.ov ingis begon. Tf ie d ipping i . b . i * ! .n th. dorhcned threods.

I ' r . L c t i c c d i p l ) i n g L l n t i l ) o u c l o r i : r c c l l r a l c l y r l r d a L r l o m a t i c a l l - v .

' f I I I I I r ITI]NW A Y S Y S ' f H M lraec 24

EXERCISE NO. 6

L I J A I T N I N ( ; ' f O M A K I i " . J O I N I N C ] S ' '

' lhc 1( 'chni( l t r( i fo i s( 'cLrr i l . Ig suff icrcnt anchorrrgr i with()ul h:rving l ()()r n u c h b r r l k i s c s l l c ( l " J o i n i n g " .

l ) i L r n i r g o o n ( . w ( J o i ( c r ( , s s ) t h r ' o a ( 1 . w i l h y o u r t w c o z c r s , I ) u l l L r p ( ' a c h( n d o f l h c c l a n l r g ( d t h r o i r ( l i r n d i o i r s ( , i l . o u t I ' a s t l w o o f l h c w a r l ) ( l c n g l h )t h f t ) i t d s . I l y u s i n g l h c l w c e z { r s , y o L r i r v o i d f r r y i n g i b o L h r ( ' . r d c n d s i r sy o u a r c l i k c l y l ( ) d o i t v o u l r v t , ) g r r s t ) l h ( r n w i i h ) o L r r f i n g c r n a i l s .

I ' r ; r c l i c ( , m a k i n g . i ( ) i n i n g s w l ) i k r o p b c i n g t h c s i n g l c t h r c i r d . l ) o t h i s

b y n l a k i n A : r d i p a r x l s l r r r t i n g t o r r w e : r v c l l o n g t h c i n i l c l . l ) ( ) t l i ( m ( ) l t h (

t l l r c i r d b ( ) j [ g r l i l ) ] ; r c c c l , c o m m ( ) n c i n g l o | r ' w c a v c o b o u t t h e d i s t r r n c ( ' o ff i v c w : L r p ( f c l l g t h ) t h r e : ' d s b t f o r e r c r t c h i n g l . h o t ) o i n t w h ( r ( ( ) n ( c l l d l r a sb ( { n l c r s ( d o u l . C o n l i n l r o t o w ( r t v ( : r l o n g l h c l i n o o f t h c r d i t m r g o , t ) a s 1l l r c o t ) r ( r l ) r o k c n ( n d , r n d o n r l ( ) n g t h o i n t r c l l x ) f i i ( ) n f o r t h c d i s l l n c c o [

f i v c ' w : r r P t h r c i r d s o r t h i l t s i d ( : . I h c n m r l ( ( r f i n a l d i p . V i s u i L l g r a l n ?s h o w s t l l ( ' l ) r o c ( s s .

VISUALGRA}N NO. 7menr rhreod hos beens.ther is rhe ioini .s.

This shows rhe domoged ihreod i .osedwovcn in. The g loce *here rhese rwo

tl

iti.FitilrTFtIrIII

THE FRENWAY S YS'f -E] M Page 25

Pract icethe procedure ofweaving and joiningthe on!. thread twenty-f ive t imes. Be sure that you are doing i t correct ly. Stay on the properl ine when reweaving. Don't be in a hurry to go on to the next step unt i lyou have perfected this one, or the next wi l l only confuse yol l .

N e x t , r p p l a c e t w o a d J a c e n i t h r e a d s . T h i s r e q u i r e s t h a t t h e e n d s o fthe sccond damagcd threed each bc tc.rscd out past foLLr warp ( length)t h r c ^ d s . R u t y o u w i l l o v e r l a p y o u r r c w e a v i n g o n b o t h s i d e s o f t h e d a -magcd place by using the sanlc nlethod as you used bcfore. Rcmembert h a l t h e d i p f o r t h e s e c o n d t h r e a d b e g i n s f a r t h e r a w a y f r o m l h c d i l m a g e .R c p c a t t h i s c x e r c i s c a d o z e n t i m c s .

When r- .ou have mastcred the r .eplacement of two a. l jocedt trrrcaus,l e a r r ) t o d o i t c o r r c c t l y f o r l b r e € ) a d j a c e n t t h r e a d s . ' f h i s r - c q u i r e s t h : r 1t b o o n d s o f l h u l h i r d b r o k e n t h r e a d b p t c i r s e d o u 1 l ) a s t s c v p n w a r p( ] e n g l h ) t h r ( ' i t d s . W h e n r c ' w . ' a v i n g , r l ( ) s ( ) o v ( ' t . l h o i n t a c l p o r l i o D s o f t h ( )t h r ( a d f o r d i s t n c e s o f f i v . w a r p t h r ( : u d s a s l l e f o r ( ' . N o w y o u c a n s c ct h c s t a i r : j t ( , p i L r r a n g c m c n t o f t t r e J o i n i n g s .

' l ' h i s d i s t r i t r u t e s t h c b u l k o ft h ( . o v e r l a p f ) i n g t h r e a d s i n s L r c h . 1 w a y t h a t t h o d o u b l ( . t h i c k n e s s i s n o ta l l l o c a l ( ' d r i g h l n c x i t o t h ( ) d a m a g c d a r c a . V i s u a l g r . r m l , f o l l o w i n g p : r g . )s h o w s t h ( ' s t a i r s l e p p i n g .

I ) o l h i s r o w c a v i n g c x c r c i s c o v ! - r a n d o v e r . D o n o t s p ( , ( , d h e r c . ' l h i s

i s t h c c r u x o f y o u r p r o f e s s i o n . L e a r n i t w o l l .

T H E I T H E N W A \ S Y S T E M Page 26

D I P B R O K E N

VISUALGRAM NO.8 - This shows "sro i r i rcpping" a i ionenonr o{ lo in l ie ond

dipping. Nore lhc 16osing or t is s td i r3 iepp6d q lso.

l l l h L ' r L r r n b i I o f t h r ' ( l d s y ( ) L r m u s l r ' r ' ] ) i r i l ' i x c t ' r ' i l s l ] ) r ( ( , \ ' o L r ( l o n o {

l x . ( ' ( 1 1 ( ) | e i l s l ' o L l l | ] n ] b f ( ) | i ( | I l e l l ( l s ( J I t h c | ( ) L 1 r | | r l ' l l 1 ' ( ' l l ( l l ) ( ] J o l r ( l n l ( ) i ' t I l h t L n

r \ { o w i r r l ) ( l o r r g l l r ) t h r ( r : r ( l s , l n o l h ( ' r w o r ' ( l s , I l I r ( r r d s 4 , 5 , r r n t l { j ! ( ' i l l l l a v (

j o i n i n g s l o c i r l ( ( l i n L h r i s r l m ( ' \ r , ' l y i h r r 1 . l x ' . i o i n i l r g s o f l h r ( l ( l s 1 ' 2 ' l n d i J

i r r L l o c ; r l c d - S c c V i s u l l g r l r m 1 1 , f o l l c ) w i n g I ) r r g ( ' .

R E P L A C E M E N T T l 1 R E A D S

T H R E A D S

I ' i I L ! ' I i L N \ \ . \ \ S Y S I L M l ' a g c 2 ?

V I S U A L G R A M N O . 9

r l l | L . r ( l : . , , r , , 1

l ' r ' r c l i c r t , r o t r . r l .L r t ) 1 ( ) : i \ I i ) r ( i r ( l s w i ( l ( .i i : , $ i . l l i r r r l r ( \ N o ( ) i

i i n r l , j l i r r r l ) , I r ' r i r r l .

h r l . l l r ( L r ( l r i , l l l r ( i ( ) L r l l r r l r ' ( i r . l

r l r i r i l l r ( ( r ) L l ! , ( ) l I l r ( l i t l l r I l r ' ( r L { ll l r i l l l t ( , r r l l s , ) l l l l ( . s i r l l ) l l r r ( . i r ( l

l i u t , r s r \ ! o r ! r ' f J i

( ) L r r l ) i L S r L r ) i l r ' \ ! i L r ' l )

o r J , , i s l s i n w r , , l ,

! c \ v ( t r v i r r g r r , l r l r l r i r r l t J , , r i l l ! t s f , ) r ' r l . , l ] r j t ( ( l I ) l r c , sl ' r i r c l i c L l l l | r s r ( w { i L v i r i t 1 . l r ( , r ^ , i u l ) ( l , r g l l r ) l h r i i r ( l s

( L - r ' , ) s s ) . I ' l , | | I i c L ' ' h i . r , . \ ( . r ' c i \ ( - n r r J r \ r i r n r i s - t h i s

PICTU RE NO. 7-A .of reored o ! r rh reodr .

THE FRHNWAY SYSTEM PaAc 28

iit:',

fh is show3 ih rce ih reod5 wov€n in . Not ice s to ies tepp ins

Tf t i3 i i t f t . ' i gh t 3 id . o I r l te ndre . i . l .

PICTURE NO. 7-B . This shows rhe wtong s ide of ihe 5dme work ds in Pi . tu 'eN0.7-4, Nor ice o9oi . ihe i ro i rs i .pping of rh€ d ip3.

THE FRENWAY SYST!]M Page 29

O D e o f t h e h a r d e s t t h i n g s t o l e a r n t o d o i s " c l e a n " w e a v i n g . T h i sm e a n s t h e a r t o f u s i n g y o u r l e e d l e s o s k i i i f u l l y t h a t y o u d o n o t p i c k u pa n y p a r l o f t h e w o o f ( c r o s s ) t h r e a d w h i c h y o u m a y b e f o l l o w i n g o r r u nt h r o u g h ; r n y f i b e r s o f t h e w a r p ( l e n g t h ) t h r e a d s a s y o u w e a v e . W h e n y o u

d o n o t w e a v e " c l e a n " , v o u f r a y a n d w e a k e n t h e t h r e a d s o f t h e c l o 1 h ,( . s p e c i a l l y w h e o y o u a t t c m p t t o p u l l t h e . e p l : r c e n l o n t t h | e a d s i n t o p u s i -

L i o n . Y o u r n a y e v c n b r ( J k s o m e p r e v i o u s l y u n d a m a g e d t h r e a d s ,

T h e r c i s l b s o L u t c l y n o o t h e . w a y t o L e : r r n t o d o " c l e a n ' w e a v i n g U c -s i d c s l o t s o f p r i r c t i c e , ' f h e e y e s m u s l b e t r a i n c d t ( ) s e c t h e w e a v e r e a d -i iy. ' l 'he f ingers musl learn lo m:rnipulalc the ner 'dle f lexibly. ()ne hasl o g r ' l l h L ' " f c ( 1 " o f i l .

E XERCISE NO. 7

CLI ]AN WUAVING IS ESSUNTIAL.

EXERCISE NO, 8

r ; l l ' f lN ( i Ia l l ) u t t . (X )Sh l :N l )S .

Now thal yolr hav€r leirrned boih dipping and joining, youare reacly 1oi r ' e r n h L : w t o r L ' m o v c ' t h e e n d s o f t h e o r i g i n a l . r n d r ( ' p l a c c I ) ] e n t t h r e a d sl r , | l r ' h ' , . i , \ l I t [ . , c . o f l r , . c ] o t h .

A s s o o n a s y o u h a v e r e p l a c e d a l L o f t h e d a m a g c d t h r e a d s g o i a g i n

o D t - d r r ' ( , c t i o r L - c r o s s w i s e o r l e n g l h w i s e , y o u w i l l w a n t t o g e t t h e e n d s

o f t h e d a m a g c d t h r e a d s o u t o i t h e w a y i n o r d e r f o r y o u t o s . j e y o u r w o r kr n o r e c l e a . l y w h c n y o u r e p l a c e t h e d a n a g c d t h r e a d s g o i n g i n t h e o p -p o s i l c d i r L ' c t i o n . Y o u d o t h i s b Y s n i p p i n g e a c h e n d q u i t e c l o s e t o t h e

s u r ' f a c e a s ) o L L h o l d t h ( t h r e a d s t i g h t l y t a u t r v i t h t h c t h L L n l b - n a i l o { t h e

o t h e r h a n d , S e e p i c t u r ' . j B : r n d V i s u a l g r a m 1 0 .


VISUALGRIM NO. 10. An cnlorscd v ie* of rh. octudl r r lppt t re o l l o{ ih .

Mos l o f t be i i ) r 1L? , t h ( ' sn ipped end w i l l sp r i ng bacK . rnd bu ry i l se l f i nthc cloth, or spring out on the other side. If i l does not, i t should bepushed through to the under side with the nccdle soit wil l not show.

When a damaged area has been rcwoven in boih dircctions and theends of ihe original, broken threads have been snipped in the rnannerjus l desc r ibed , you mDs l Dow sn ip the ends o f t he rep l ) cemcn t t l r readsat the beginning of the t irst dip and at the end of the s.rcond di lr. Seep ic tu rc #9 , on page 32 . You have wa i ted to do th i s l as t i n o rde r t ohave somL.thing to grasp rcadily whenever you Deeded to t ighten, oro the rw ise adJus t , t he woo f ( c ross ) t h reads wh i l e you were reweav ingthe warp.

I t i s w ise to pu l l each th read end s l i gh t l y as you sn ip i t , j us t as youdid with the previous set. I f the snipped end does not spring back tothe under side, you must work i l through so that i t does not show on ther i sh t s ide .

I ' H I ] I , ' I I L \WAY SYSTI ]M Prgc : l t

Y'. .

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PICTURE NO.8 ' Sn ipp ine ihe end! o i rhe teosed our (dohqeed) ih 'eods Not ice

t h e p o s r u c o { i h e h o . d s o n d . c i s s o ' 3 .

?' - tJ

Page 32II{E FRENWAY SYST!]M

?.[

PTCTURE NO,9 - This shows the domose conplere ly 'ewoven. The teoled oufthreod ends hcve becn snipped. Now rh. e ids ot rhe rePlocen€nr thteods dr .

reody ro be 3nipp.d or rhe r ips.

THE FRLNWAY SYSTEM Page 33

E XERC ISE NO.9

REWEAVING WHEN I ]OTH WOOF AND WARP ARE GONE

W h e n a d a D a g e d p l a c e i s a h o l r , i t m e a n s l h a l b ( n h \ v a r l ) a n d u o o fa r c g o n ( i n t h a t s l ) o t . Y o u s h o u l d a l w a y s r e w r . : r v L 1 b ( \ ' o o f i i r ' s t , t h c nt u f n t h e c L o t h o r g a r n ) e n l i r l o r d e r t o r o p l a c e t h ( , \ r ! ' a r l i . \ ' h ( ' n i h l r d a n r _a g ( : d t ) l n c e i s a c t u a l l y a h o l e , t h e n c w w o o f w h i c h l ( ) L r h i r v ( , J u s l p u i i nl i e s a c r o s s t h e h o l ( ) , w a i t i n g f o r l h c w a r p l o b € - ' w o v ( n t h r ' ( , u g h i l .

A L W A Y S M A K t r C E I I ' I A I N , W H ! ] N I ' R F J I ) A I I I N C ' T O I . ' I X A D A M -A G E D P j - A C E , r H A T Y ( ) t I S T A R T W I r t I f H r , r ' f ( ) t ' M ( ) S r t ) A M A C H I )T I I I I E A D . D o n o t l e a v e a p a r l i a l l y d a m a g r ] d l h r e a d 1 o c a u s ( f u r l h c rt r o u b l e a l . a l a t e r l i m € r . I t h e l p s , c s p c c i a l l y f o - r c l , n h w i l . h i i n ( t h r ' ( ' i L ( l s ,t o p u l l t h f i n l a c l t h r e a d n e n r e s t t h ( ' l o p o f t h L d | l m i ) { ( ' d i ] r o a a l i l t l (t i g h t l y w i t h ( h e t w c ( . z c r s i n o r d e r t ( ) s ( , i - - i l c I a r l ] r r n l i t o u s c ) 1 a 5 i rg L ' i d ( i . I t c a n b e l o o s ( ' n c d a s s o o n : r s y o u b c g i r l r ( w ( i r v i n g t x ! l o w l ) ys t r e t c h i n g l h c c l o t h : r b i i w i t h t h c f i n g c r i i p s . D ( ) r r ( ) t ( j v ( r L ( . a v ( ) i t t i g h lfor i l would m:rr your work.

Cut i t* 'ay 1.he damaged pol l ions of or igir . r l thr( 'a( ls in a dornlgcda r c a s o t h c y w i l l n o t o b s c u r e y D u r v i s i o n a s y o u r e w t - ' : t v ( , , I f l o f l i h c r (t h e y m a y c a u s c y o u t o n l a k o D i s t a k L . s . Y o u s h o u l d c I i I ) t b e m L o a v i n ge n d s a b o u l l / t j i n c h e x t e r ) d i n g i n t o t h c h o l e . l ' h i s w j l l g u i d e y o u w h o ny ( ) u r . p l : r c e ! h e b r o k c n t h r e a d s a n d y o u w i l l t h u s b ( s u r ( . t o g e t e : r c l lt h r c a d i n i t s p . o p e r p l a c c . S c . V i s u a l g r a m # 1 1 .

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I t : : r I d c t l . M i r l < r ' l h ( d i J ) : r r l r ( l . , ) i l r i r I g : c o t r { c l L Y . I ' r l c -

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F i n a l l y , i t n l r r o \ ' ( y . ) u r s k r l t l ) \ I L $ ( , r v i n ( c l i r t n l q i ( l i r ( ' a s L r p l ( ) l j / ' l

i n c h l ! i d c i D t h c c o i L r s L c l ' r r 1 1 .

] ] HE FRENWAY

GE' I ' ACCUS 'TOM} |D ' IO F INER 'THREADS.

SYS ' IEM Page 35

DON"T PRACTICE UNDEIT EXTREMF] TENSION

As you probably have learned by now, you do not improve your ski l lwhen you have worked loo long and too intensely. You f ind yoursclfnTak ing more m is lakes than usua l . I t i s be t te r t o s top p rac t i c i ng en -t irely for awhile and to try to relax. I f you are working on some ratherdiff icutt sdmplc oi garmerrt, you )nay b.r abl€rto get ovcr your ir 'nsenessby go ing b l r ck to some s i rnp le r s tep i | ( he re rve : r v ing p roc ( ) ss .

S p e c i a l m e n t i o n i s m a d e a b o u t t a k i n g i t s l o u ' a n d l a k i n g i l e a s y a i t h i sp o i n t i n t h e m a n u a l b e c a u s e y o u a r e n o w r e a d y t o p r a c l i c e o n o n e - a n d -one weaves made of f inr ' r threads, l i rst of medium weight, (SampleN o . 2 , ) i b e n o f t h ( - I i g h i e s t w c i g r , r ,

Arrange the var ious sampics that you havc on hand of s imple, baskt, t -w e a v e s a c c o r d i n g t o t h e f i n e n e s s o i i b e l h r e a d s . S o m c h a v e b e e n s u p -p l i c d w i t h t h e m a t u a l ; y o u c a r p . o c u r . . - o l h e r s . S t a r t i n ( w i t h t h e c o ^ r s -( i s t w e a v c , p r a c t i c c o n e a c h s a n t p l e u n t i l y o u h a v e r n a s t c r e d i t . F i n a l l y ,you wi l l master the one with the f inest ihread, which wi l l probably be ai r o p i c a l w o r s t e d . D o n o t a t t e m p l t o r q ' r r g . r . a d a m a g e d p l a c e l a r g e rthan the l ip of a penci l in cloth of very f ine thread.

l Jono iexpec t toacqu i re rea l sk i l l i n j L rs t a few weeks . K .ep pa t i en t .Keep practicing, When you have become really good, the ski l l you haveacquired wil l st ick with you. You can be proud of i t .

THFJ t . 'RLNWAY SYS'f I l I \1 |age 3i j

EXERCTSE NO. l0

A CHANCI .J AT I ,AS ' f ' I 'O DO A ITEAI , IT ! ]WLAVINC JOI ] .

A f t e r a l L t h ea <larnag(.1 f i l i rc( 'rJa sr<( r 1!o:rv(. .

p r a c t i c e y o u

i n a r c g u l a rh a v e h a d , y o u s h o u l d b eg 3 r r n e n l i f t h a t g i r r r n ( n l

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h a s a s i l r l t ) J . ,

l ' i I s l , y ( ) u r r - t u s l b ! , l ( , 1 i n o n a l r a d e s ( , c r ( r : t i x c e l ) t L r a . ( . c : r s e s ,J ( ) L r g ( t l h r ( ' a d l o r c w c a v o a d a m a g e d t ) i : r c ( ' f r ( r r n h i d c l ( r n l ) l r 1 1 s o f t h r .g a r n r e n l i t s e l f , f r o m s o r l ] c p l a c ( w h e r { r l h o a p p L r r : r n c c i u x l s l r ( n t j l h ( ) f1 l ) L i g . r n ) ( n i i s n o l h a r m ( r L i i n ; r n r u i t y .

l , o r i n s l : t r l c r ' , i n o r d ( ' r t o r ( w e a v ( ' i l ( l i l m a g { c l } ) L : r c t i D 1 r { ) u s ( , r s ,r r k ( , t h r r i ( l s f . o r t r i h ( 1 , ( ) r ! o I I l o i . n o p ( n { . d c L i f t f . r r r ' r , r c l i v i r r g r h ( , v ( ) ( ) i( c r o s s ) l l l r r ' n { l s . l a k e t h r ' ( , : r d s f r o n l l h ( . w i d e s l l r o u s ( r s ( , i r n r , ( t ( ) l { n )i h ( . c u f f , f o f r ( ' t ) l i l c i n g w a I . l ) ( L , n g l h ) l h r l r : r d s . W h e n ) o u o t ) c n i c L r f f ,( ) t ) r , r i 1 f r , ) m ( ) D L s ( , a n r 1 o l h ( , o t h ( r . I r , o c o : r i { l a D r a g c t h c s l i , ( , v , , ( r r . 1 h ( ,s r c l u s { r n r s a r c t h e b L ' s t i ) l r c ( . s t o g 0 l v o u r t h r r ' a . . l s . ( ) f c o u r s , j , . l i u -

a g ( d w o o f l h . ( i r ( l s m u s i L { f o p l a c c d w i l h w o o f t h r c a d s a n d d a r l i r g ( ( l u l r . l )l h r ' e : r d s n r u s l b { r e p l a c c d w i l h w r r r p t l l r t r ( l s - C n u t i o d : } i v c t h o u g h o ns o m c ' r r i : l I r i i , l s $ ( ) o i i i n ( l w a r t ) t h r c l d s n ) a J l r ) o j ( i h ( , s i , r | f l l l l Y A i t . t iN O f . l ' i c i u r e , l ( l s h o ! , , s i h r c l r l s b c i n g p u l l ( , ( 1 f r o r n b o o m o f : , 1 ( , c v ( l! v h ( r f c I i n i n g h a s b ( ( n o t ) e n c d . S c c f o l l ( ) w i | g t ) a g ( . .

r I t F l i \ \ \ ' AY SYSI l rN ' r i ' r qe 3?

P I C T U R E N O .l0 - Threods beins pul led { roo bor iom o{ s leeve whe'e l in ins hds

IHFJ FRENWAY SYS'|EM Page 38

It wil l require experience to learn how to estimate readily how manythreads are needed for a repair job. A small damaged place u' i l l notneed as many rep lacemen t t h reads as a l a rge damage .

AIso, when taking threads from a sealn, be sure the cloth has beencut straight enoughfor you to obtain threads of usable length without un-raveling the garrnent past a seam and marring or weakening the gar-ment. Evely garment usually has one seam which is wider lhan everyother seem, so get threads from that one,

You may receive a garmeot that has had a lot of generat wear. whenyou reweave a damaged place with threads from a hidden part of the gar-ment, which has had much less wear, the "newer'threads make thedamagcd area somewhat thicker. You can remedy this part ly by pull-ing each thread that you are going to use for replacement between thethumb and forefinger to get the nap off. Then it wil lnot contrast quite somuch with the worn threads around the damaged place. As a matterof fact, the contrast wil l rarely be noticed by anyone except you andthe customer, and after a few days of wear, neither of you wil l be ableto locate the rewoven place, unless you look on the wrong side ofthegarment to f ind the ends of the thieads.

MARK THE SPOT

Since most of the reweaving you do - i f you have done it correctly,wil l not show, mark the damaged area with a red thread. This wil l tel lanyone pressing the garment where the damage was and wil l assist thecustomer in locating ihe spot he wanted rcwoven. After i t has servedits purposes, the red thread can be removed. See Picture #11 on fol-lowing page.

Page 39'IHE FITENWAY SYSTI'M

l.FFFFFFl.FFFFtI

Al l rhrcod.nds hove bcen 3nipp.d d.d rh.thrcod ro nork thc ipot ot {orn. f domos. .

P I C T U R E N O . I I

1 'HF ; I . -RENWAY SYS ' | t J M I rage 40

EXERCISE NO. I I

REWEAVING A TWO-AND_TWO WEAVE

N o w t h a i y o u h a v e h a d t h c t h r i l l o f a c t u a l l y r e w e a v i n g s o m ( , l ) o c l y , so a m a g c o g a r m e n t a n d h a v L , d e m o n s t r n l c d t h a t y o u c a n d ( ) g o , ^ r r , ( ) r . r i ,y o u a r c r e a d . y t o l o a r n h o w t o f t r l ) . r i r . c l o t h w i t h . r s i m p l c t ; o - i r n ( l _ t $ ow c a v e . S a m p l r ' N o , 4 i s o f t h a t w e a v e .

I - e t ' s g e l o n e p ( ) i n t c l ( ' a r f i r s t . W h c n y o L r r c i r d a b ( ) u l w ( , , , \ , u r t l , rb o o k s , y o u w i l l g { r t h € j i n r p r ( - s s i o n t h a t . n y t w o - r n d - r w o u , L . i r v ( . L s i rt w i l l w e a v e . I I o w e v c r , r e w € _ , a v e r s d o n o l c a l l a n y i w o - a n c l - t w o w ( . i , \ . ( . i rt w i l l u n l ( ' s s t h ( ' w e a v e p r o c l u c e s a c l ( , f j n i l c D r ( , r n o f d i n g ( ) n a l l i j x . s r ) r .r . r d g e s , w h i c h a r e l ( n o w n a s t w i l l s .

W h a l i s b c i n g d c s c r i b c d h c r . . i s t h . , s i l n p l ( . r w o _ a n d _ r w o w ( , : r v e . . J h |

w o o f ( c r o s s ) t h r c a d s g o u n d c r l w o w a r t ) ( t e n g t h ) t h r ( , a c t s , t h ( , n , ) v ( , r I r cn / r x f l w o , t h . ' n u n d f r t h o f ( t l o w i n g t w ! ) , t h r . n o v { , r t h c - f o u i t h 1 ) . 1 i r . , ( . r c .Y o u c : l D s e e t h i s b ( ' s t b y p u l l i n g a w r y l h ( , l a s l t h r e a d a l l h c t o l ) o r l r o t ,t o t n o f y o u r s a r n p l ( , n o l i n A t h e w L , a v e a s y o u c l o s o .

N o t i c e h o w I h e v e r y n e x t t h r ( , a c l i s w o v c n . I l f o l l o w s l h c s l D r ( . r w i )a n c l - t w c r p a t l e j r n , b u t y o u w i l l n o r i c ( , ! v h l 1 i s c a l l o ( l I \ , o A r c s s i ( ) r r . l . h ( ,f i r s t w o o f t h r e a d s i a r t e d a c r o s s b J g o i n g u n d e r l w o $ , . : r r l ) t h r . r , ; r ( t s , t h r lw o o f t h r c . t d J u s t b e l ( ) w i t h a s b c c n s t r r r i c . j a c r o s s b y g o i n g 0 v | r o n L . ,o n e ! - a f p t h r e a d b c f o r e b c i n g p L r t u n r l c r t w o w a r p t h r c : r d s . I . h e n , t h ( ,t h i r d w o o f t h r c a d j u s t b e l o w t h e s e c o n d l h r e a d s t a r t s o u l b y g o i , r g ! , v , , r1wo warp thl 'eads. fhe nexl lvoof thr.ad corn|n(,nc. s by going i i r rdet. o| lew a r p t h i e a d b e f o r e g o i n g o v e r t h e n . , x t t w o . I h e v ( , r y n e x t w o o f i h r e a dwil l start the sequencc al l ovcr again. I t wi l l begin by going unclu,r rwo,S t u c i y V i s u a l g r a m N o . l 2 o r l F o t l o w i n g p a g e .

A f t e r y o u h a v e t a r n i l i a r i z e d y o u r s e l f l v i t h t h e l w o _ a n ( j - t w ( ) w e r v r ,commence pract ic ing reweaving by taking thc same steps .rs you cl ic l inlearnlng reweaving the basket weave.

s YS I i , iM I )egc 4l

Upper Risht

VISUALGRAM NO. 12Srqrr or ihe upper r ighi

Srudy th is d iog 'dm very core{u l l y .

hond coher wo 'k inq ro rhe le f r .

One rhreod or o r ime.

' T I I I ' I . ' I t ] , N l V A Y S Y S I ' L I \ ' I 1 ' . rgc 42

EXERCISE NO. 12

l . ' i r s r , l r l c e l h ( . . r ( . . r v c o f n s i n g l ( ' 1 . , r ( ) o f t h r ( ) r d $ ' i l h . u [ i l r r ( , a d c dr x ' c ( l l ( . . I ) o l h i s i i v ( , i i n r c s . S ( , c o n d , l r a c e l l l ( , w c i ] v ( s ( ) 1 l 1 v o l h r c a d s ,( ) l I ( r u r r r ) i d q J r r s l l ) ( 1 , ) \ v i 1 r ( ' o l h e f . ' l h c r l r a c ( , t h r . w ( ) i r v { . \ o f t h r ( ' c a r ) do t f o L r r \ L r c h l h r e i r ( l s . l ) o ( , r c h o f 1 b ( ' s ( s l c l , 5 s , . ! , ( , r 1 1 l i n r ( s .

I t ( , t ! , , 1 1 t h ( c \ ! i r c r : i c r l l l h ( : \ 1 i J t h r { ) u g h r i t h l l r r ( , i r ( l { r d ( ( , d l ( s . I l , ( .m ( , n r l ) c r l h r i o n l y 1 ) r a c l i c ( ' \ r i L L ( l i m i n ; r l ( r n i s l i r l ( c s a n d i n c r ( ' i t s c ) o r r rs t ) ( , ( ( l r l n r l s l { i 1 1 . I n 1 . 1 ) i s i y t J i , o f w ( i r \ ' ( i 1 j s v ( , r ' . , ( ' l s y 1 i ) g o i 1 | r ( l o r r ) r o v { ro I h , , r ) r ' 1 ! n r I t l l l 1 r , l , , r r l o t ) i c k L r t ) 1 ( ) ( ) n r i , r ) , , , r ' l l ) s l i l ) ( ) l t r l r ( , l i r , r ) i 'r h ( . l l r ' ( . r ( l l ! , i n g f ( ' 1 1 , , \ , . ( 1 , f o r l h . ' ( l L i r q ( , ; r l t , : , 1 1 ( . r n t ) l l - \ ' s r I i c k : o n , ) n , ' : .

\ ( i x t , J , L r l l o L r l . , r r { w o o f t h | ! r { 1 . r l r o u l . : l / 2 | r c h c s l ( ) r ] i t i n l h o c { n r I rL ) f l l ) ' j : i l n ) l r , ; ) r ) r l t ) r ' i r c l i c , 1 r . J ) l r j c j , r { i l \ i 1 h , ) L r l r ) v ( } l r l , l ) i r r r l l ) ( . i n ! j , . : 1

J l ( ) r 1 r ( , r t : . ) i t h e ( ) l ( l 1 l r r , , r L ( l \ ' | i t l r l l r r , r L ( ' w l l ) r ' ( . : r ( 1 .

W l ) r ' r v o L r c i t n ( 1 , ) l h r t u ' ( 1 1 , l ) u l l o u l 1 \ | ( ) r , , { , r c w o ( ) i 1 h r ( ' : r ( l s . i L r s l l ) ( . -l ( ) $ ' r l ) , l i i s r ( ) n ( r r ) ( i l ) r r c l i c ( r ( l ) l r c i r r f r , l l l l r ' ( , . l ) o r ( , 1 l J c u t ) s r I r fr l r i : l r r ' d \ l i ( o l r , , I | r r c h h r | d , r l ] r i l | r y ( ) 1 r | L : L l i : , ( ( { i t c ( ' r { l { l l , ( . . I i r ( , u [ ! l1 ( . n s { : r l ) ( , u l v ( ) u r r n i r l r l i ( s , g o l r : r c k l o \ ! ( ) r ' l i ( ' n s i m t ) l ( b r s k ( , 1 \ r c a \ ' ( , su n l i l J o r r r ( , r ( ) l r x ( ( l c [ o l r g h 1 ( ) l r y l ] r L ' n c l ! : k i l l : r g l i n . ' l

h c r t r o s t c x -

J X , r i r n c r r l \ | ( r v c r s o f l ( . n ( l ( ) t h i s

' 1 f t . r j o u h r ! , m n s l f r c d l h { r ( l ) l . c ( I l r ( . n t ( ) f r v ( ) ( ) f t l l r ( . . ( l s , c h : r n g ut h ( ' l ) o s i t i o n o f t h . s a n r p l o o n t h ( . c u s h i o n a D d I ) r a c l i c c r a p l a c i n g w a r p

!. ' in.r l l ) , , danagc ()n(, 1vo()f rnd oDe warp lhrf 'a i l a l the sam, poiDi inthe sal l1plc and pracl icc rclveir ! ing them. ' l 'he

s:rrne lnethod of dippinga n d j o i n i n g i s u s e L l l h a t y o u a l r c a d y h a v t l c a r n c d . A l s o , s n i p t h e e n c t sof ihc dalnaged and rcpl .rcenr.nt lhreads thc way you have been taught.R e p e a l t h e P r o c e s s s L \ t l m e s

THLJ FRENWAY

l ' r a c l i c c r ( - p a i r i l l g d a r l l a q c 1 D 1 u ' o w ( ) o fd o i t f o r t h r e c o f e a c h l y i n g t o g e t h c r .r a n g e m c n l o f t h e d i p s a n d j o i n i n g s !

S \ S T E M Page 43

a D d t w o u a r p t h r c a d s . I h e r )R c m e r n b e r l h e s t a i r s l e p a r

I tewervu di lrr lagc. thaf isin your mind the dipping andseve r : r l t imes .

s i x t h r ( ads w ic ieJoining technique

( i r c h w i t y i n o r d c r t o f i xyou havc l ()arned. l )o i t

S a m p l e s N o s . 5 a n d [ i a r c : r l s ( ) t w o - a n d - t w o w ( a v e s o n w h i c h y o L ra r c i . o p r a c t i c e . ' I h e y h a v ( ) f i n c r t h r c a d s t h a n S i t m n l c N o . . 1 ,

I r r o r d c r l o n o i i c c h o w y o u i r n p r o t ( i r , s p c r e c i a s y o u p r r c t i c c , t i r {y o u r s c l f o n t h c r c p l a c e m e n t o f t h r c a d s c o r r o c t l y ! t h ( n o n t h e a c l u a liL)wcaving of i r d:rrnagcd area lhreo threads wid.: . The rnore you pr;rc-i i c c t h ( ) f a s t f r y o u b r ' c o m e .

t l y t h i s t i r r l c y o u a r o p r o b a b l y n o L i c i n g l h e w e a v e s o t p ( o p l ( s 'c l o t h i n g . r s t h c y s l a n d n e a r y o u . l t i s g o o d p r a c l i c e t o i r y t o d e t o r m i n L lw h i t t t h c w L , a v e s a r r ' .

A l t e r y o r h o v e q o i n e d e r p e r i e n c c i n t h i s p r o c c d u ? . , ( D O N O T r r y b e f o r . ) ,y o u w i l l f i n d t h o t t h e t i . s t d o m o g c d r h r e o d c o n h c l i f r e d u p - n o r e o s i n q ; u r - t h e nt h o r t h r e a d r . p l o c e d ; t h e s e c o n d d o m o g e d t h r e o d r e o s c j o u t o n . o r r * o r h r e o d so n d t h e t h i r d t h r e o d l e o s c d o u t o n l y o n e o r t v . o h o r e t h r e o d s , T h i s w i l l s q v e v o ut i m c i n r e p c o v i n g . D o n o t o l e m p t t l i s o n t i l y o u h o v e h o d c o n s i d e r o b l e e x p e r .i e n c e . Y o u c o n l o s e t r o c k o f w f i i c h t f t r e o d t o u q r e r c p l d c i n g u n l c s s y o v h o v et r c i n e d y o u r s e l f i n k n o w i n g o n d f o l l o w i n g p o . r n s . D o j u s r o s i n s t r u c t e d , T h i sl i m e s o v i n g h i n l i s I o r y o u r b e n e l i r - - i t i s i o k . n h o m o u r y e o r s o f e x D e r i e n c e .D o n o l o t t e m p t t o u s e t h i s m e t h o d u n r i l y o u k n o w y o u r w e c v i n q .

THE FRENWAY SYSl'EM Page 44

EXERCISE NO. 13

LEARNING MORE COMPLEX WEAVES

By now you realize how essential i t is to master slep-by-step thetechnique of reweaving each new pattern and to practice again and a-gain. Since this is so, you wil l not be told from norr on what the stepsare, for you already know them by heart. How much you practice eachstcp from now on wil l be up to you, but remember; I t takes more prac-t ice to master fancy weaves, not less. And you are lext to famil ia-r ize yourself with weaves which are more complex than simple baskctand two'and -two weave s.

It is at this stage that the real fun cornes in- It is fascinating tosee the end less va r ia t i ons i n des ign o f f ab r i cs madc poss ib le by va ry 'ing thr ' weave, the color scheme, and the sizes of threads. Yet, al l y()umust do is fol low the pattern of the cloth you are reweaving unti l youk[ow how it is woven. In order to discover this pattern, you must"count out" the weave of several threads, one just below tho other, forsome vcry fancy weavcs involve changes in a long serics of thrcads,

COUNTING OUT

To determine a \rreave, fastcn the sample f ir-mly 1o th(] pi l low at oneend in order to have both hands free for counting out the pattern. ! lx-amine the threads at the edge of the sample. Using a needle, loosenabout three of the outermost woof threads and remove them from theweave. This 'wil l leave exposed ends of the warp threacis that are Iongelotrgh for you to turD back in counting.

Choose a point along the f irst woof thread left in the sample whereit is going over one or more warp threads. Wrlte down how many i i ispassing over. Next, determine how many warp threads it is passing

IIHT, FRIINWAY SYS,THM Pagc 45

under and wri te down that number. Using a needle or the twcezcrs toseparatc the threads is hclpful whi le try ing to coLlnt. Keep going alongthc same woof Lhiead, not ing and wri t ing down th( 'weave unt i l you arcs u r e l h a t y o u h a v c a p i c t u r e o f t h e t o t a l w e a v e p a t l c r n . I t i s e c s i e r l ocounl. lhc threads being passed underi f you lurn each one doivn anLi holdi t w i t h y o u r t h u m b n a i t , c o u n t i n g n s y o u g o . S c e V i s u : r l g r a m # l : l o n l h t .f o t l o w i n g p o g e . I J c s u r c t o w r i t c d o w n e a c h s t e l , . D o t h i s f o r t l x r r t o x lf o u r o r f i v c w o o f t h r e d d s b e l o w t h e f i r s t o n c , u n t i l y o u a r c c c r l i u n i h r ty o u h i t v c r e c o r d c d t h e c n t i r e w e i t v c p s t t c r n . W h e n y o L r b ( ' g i n t o c o u n tr ' i r c h I i n ( i , b ( g i n d i r e c t l y b e l o w t h e p o i n t w h e r e J o u b c g r r n c o L l n r D r { ( ) L r t

t h ( ' f i t ' s t L i n c , f o r t h j s w i l l e n a b l e y o u i o v i s u a l i z . l h c l ) r o g r ( ' s s i , , n r ) r ) r ' ur { ' : r d i l } .

A s i m p l o t w o r l n d - t w o w e a v c i s w r i t t c n , L I 2 , 0 2 , l l 2 , 0 2 , l l - , , 0 2 ,o t r : . , f o r t h c f i r s t t h r e i r d : O 1 , U 2 , 0 2 , t J 2 , C ) 2 , L I 2 , o t c . , f o r t h e s L . c o n dl h l L r u d : f o l ] t h c t l r i r d , 0 2 , U 2 , 0 2 , U 2 , ( J 2 , U 2 , c t c . ; f o r t h c f ( ) u r l h ,U l , o 2 , t l 2 , ( ) 2 , I I 2 , ( ) t c . I r o r l h c f i f t h , l l 2 , ( ) 2 , U 2 , 0 2 , U ! , , 0 2 ,r ' l t . l J y t h u s c o u r ) l i u g o u l ; r l ( x ) A f i v f t h r c r i r l s , y o u o l ) l i r i n c o m l ) l c 1 ( l i r ) o \ r ' -L ( ' d g ( . o f 1 h c f u l L l l r o g r e s s i o n o f t h ( ' s i n r l r l c t w o - i i n ( l - t w o w c i r v c - Y d l k n r ) wb y n o w t h i r t t h i s i s v ( ) r y i n p o r t i t n t i n s t r l r t i n g c o r r { r c l l y l n y r ( w ( ' i r v i n gy o u a r ' ( ' c l o r n g .

J u s t a s o f l c n y o u w i l l f i n d L h a t a s i m p l e t w o - a n d - t w o w c a v e w i l l b f a sf o l l o w s : f o r t h e f i r s t t h r e a d , s t a r t i D g u n d e r t w o i h r n a . l s , l J 2 ' / . J 2 , U 2 ,t ) 2 , U 2 , C ) 2 , e t c . t o r t h e s e c o n d t h r e r l i t w i l l b e U l , 0 2 , r - J l , ( ) 2 , I J 2 ,( ) 2 , e i c . F - o r t h e t h i r d t h r e a d i L w i l t b e 0 2 , u 2 , < r 2 , u 2 , 0 2 , u 2 , c t c .l ' o r t h e f o u r t h l h r e a d i t w i l l b e 0 1 , U 2 , 0 2 , U 2 , 0 2 , U 2 , ( ) 2 , e t c . F o rlhe f i f th thr, iad youwil l f ind i t .epeats the f i rst thread. fhis is why voumrrst count and \ratch your weave.

NO'IE: Throughout the bock "Under" is indicated by the letter ' "U" and'Over " i s i nd i ca ted by the l e t t e r "O" . Fo r examp le : Under 2 ove r 2under 2 w i l l be wr i l t en U2 , 02 , U2 .

THL FRENWAY SY ST}JM Pagc 46

VISUALGRAM NO. l3 - "Counr ine our" Nor ic ' co"{o l lvhow counr 'ne our is

donc o lons onc rh.edd. Let t rhumb Hold rhreods o l reodv counred our down'

Ne.d le i5 inscrred count inq ouf the nexf ihreod.

As yciu fornr thr) hrbi t () f ( io l lnt ing oui i rnd wri t ing r l ()wn th( i v irrr()us

w ( ) i r v c s , y ( ) u w i l l c l i s r r o v e r t h l t E ( r r r r ( ] w h i ( r h s ( o m l l l n c y ' p r o v c t o D o ( l r l t r c

s j n r p l ( ' . | ( ) r i n s l l n c e , t h ( ) r e i s t h e d ( ) u l r l c l i r s l < ( r t w c a v c , i r l w h i . l I t w o

t h r r i r d s t o g t ' t h c r ' i r r { ) l r o i r t o d : L s o n { . ' I ' h c \ ' o l v o p r r l 1 { r n i s s l i l l r h ( s i m -

l ) t ( ( ) n L ' l n d ( ) n ! ; y o u r n ( ' r c l ) h i r v l t o l c n r c m b L ' r t ( ) l ) i c l i u p r w ( ) r h r ( i r c l s

w i t h J o u r n ( c d l ( ' e r t ( h i i l n c . S r ) c V i s u r l g r i L m # 1 4 '

P:rge 47

VISUALGRIM NO. l4 - A doublc bdtk. r w.ov. or o dooblG onc o id on. r .ove.T[ i i ' .ove i . r rvo l ly fovnd in dor . . rpr . r iv .go 'h.nrr .

N() ' fFl : A doublc one-irnd-onL- is rL 'wovcD tw() thrca( ls at : r t i rne i fl l t ( two threl( ls ar 'e thc s:rmc ccr lor ' . Wtl( : each of Lhc iw() lhreaclsor igir l r l ly woven :r t lhe s:rme t i rne i re of di f ferent colors, thcy mustl ) c r ( , i ) l r i i r i ' d o n c : r t 1 1 t j D r { i . i t e o s p r ' o i i , l l y c i ) r L r f u l 1 o w ( i r \ . 1 - t l r ( ' m i nj u s t r s t h e l r l l t c r u i n t h c m i l l c r i i r l r r q u i r c s . ( S o m c t i m 0 s t h e r o i so n f l i A h l i h r r r r d i r n d o n ( , ( l r t r k o n c . ) l i ' t ) r r r t i c u l , r r l y c i r r o f u l t o m a l < ( rn c r L t j ( ' i n i n g s w h { , r r l r e p L i r c i n g r h . s c r h r o r d s o n ( i r t a t i m r ) .

C o l o r i r e a l m { r n t r n i t y d r s g u i s ( ' a s i r n p l e b a s k c t w e i l v e r L l s o . C o u n lo u t s a m p l e N o . : 1 , w h j c h l o o l < s v r ' r y i n l r i c r l e . W h e n c v L ' r t h . r e i r r e t w c )or nlore colors of \ , r , rrp threrds and two di f f . i r ' .nt sh:rdes (sed for thew o o t , t h e c o n t r a s i i n g c o l o r s m i t k c i l t e p . r t i e f n s e ( ' m i n t r i c a t e . l J y r u n -ning 3 n.edlc along on(: color, 1, !c.r \ : ing :Ls )oLr go, you . ' t ' i ) l ot leD f inLlt h a t t h . r w e a v c i s r e r U y : r s i m o l t : o n e .

T l I I l FRENWAY SYSTEM

T TI!] FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 48

THE WEAVE OF THE WARP

I t i s i m p o r t . r n l t o k n o w w h r t t h e p J l t e r n o f l h e w r r p t h r c a d s i s f o re i t c h p i e c e o f m a t e r i a l , t o o . C o r . l n t o u t t h e s e o n t h e s a m p l e s . Y o u w i l lf i n d t h a l n ) o s t w e r v c s o f t h L ' w a r p l r p s i m p l e o n e a n d - ( r 1 p o r t w o -a n d - l w o . I h c r r ] a r c e x c e p t j o n s , h o w e v c f , s o . l o n o t n e g l c c t t o c o u n t o u tt h e w a r p w o l r v c t o m a k c c c r l a i n w h a t t h c p a t t e r n i s .

EXERCTSE NO. 14

HE I I R INGBONE

Her r i ngbone tw iL l s wh ichoccu r i n c lo th used fo r ove |coa ts , a re vc ryc ( ) i u sc . ' l ' hcy a rc l ess ( : ( )a rse fo r t opco i t s and evcn l ess so fo r su i t s .He.ringbonc str ipes vary in width fronr 1/ ' l inch tr) one inch. The pat-tcrn is changed by "bl-eal<s" at t ire edge of cl lch str ipe. At cach "bre:rkt lthr| weavL' l) ir t tern chlngcs, T:J{e sample No. ?, which is a hcrringl)orlcpaitern, and count out thc weaves for the l irst six woof threads :rt thetop .

Y o u w i l l d r s c o v e r i h r t t h | w ( : l v l ' i s U 2 , ( ) 2 , c t c . g M l ] ! w h ( n ' t h es l r D l i n g ( d i a g o n r l ) l i n o s c h a r g ( . d i r e c l j o n . \ 1 t h o s o t r o i n l s , t h L ' w o o ii h r . i r d g o ( s O 1 , U l ( o r U l , O l ) b c f o r e c o n t i n u i n g t h c ( J 2 , ( ) 2 , w c l v c i rbi t further before making another break, Those points are thc breaks.I n f r c t , i t i s b y c b a n g i n g t h e w e a v e f r o n U 2 , 0 2 a t i n t e r v a l s t o O t , U lo i t J l , O l t h i l t t h e H e r r i n g b o n e p a t L e r n i s n r i d e . S e e V i s u a l g r a i \ # t j .

IIIIIIIIJIItIIIII fL

Thi3 is rh. upp6r r ighr hcnd corncr

v t s u A L c R A M N o - . l 5 . T h i s , r o h e i i , n s b . . € p o | € r n . A r w o o i d r * o w i r h o , , h , . o l , , . T f i , e e , , b , e . k 3 ' . i € s h o w nin lh i3 d iogrom. 5tor t or the vppe' ight h. .d co,ner ond {o l lo? eoch wooJ rhre.d o l l rhe woy oc,o3. , <ounnns osyou so.Yd will norice ir srorrs os follows . sto.i or the 2 rhreds b€lo.e hFk os illusi!.red ond cdni I.o.,iqk ro l"ti iopY g O F ^ T H ! ! A q . S r o , r , e o d i n e h e , e . b u ! r e n e m b € , r n i s i s { , o r R i e h o L e h o n d , o ? r o m . 0 2 . U t - 6 1 . U 2 _ 0 2 -u2 - 02 - u2 . 02 . u2 . o l - U t . 02 - U2 . 02 - U2 . 02 - U2 . O i . U l . O l . U2

-

2nd woo{ t f i reod is over 2 u^de' 2 o l l the *oy ocross.

3 ; w o o { t h r c o d . c o u n t { ' o m ' i e h i t o l e l i 0 5 i t l D 5 t , o i e d . S r o ' t h d e - U 2 - O t - U t - 0 2 - U 2 - 0 2 - L 2 . O Z . U 2 - O zu l -o l . u2 - 02 - u2 .02- i2 .o2- U2 .O l .U l . 02 .4rh *oo{ rhreod is over 2 under 2 o l ! rhe *oy

"c,os, .5rh wool threod rep6ot5 your lsr w6{ rh,dd or rhe b.eoks ond acrcss.

NOTE: Where ihe breok ih 'eods ore Ul - Ol ot o.e breok, rhe nexr breok on some ih,eod wi be Ot - Ut erc. Thishok.s /our ler i t rgbo.e pone'n, resordlers o{ rhe widrh o{ rhe breoks.worp ihr .oJs ore Over 2 Und.r 2.

T H} , F 'RL NWAY SYS ' fLM l a q ( , . r L l

At this poi i1, yol l nrLght bc srying:I g o t a r e g u l r r t \ ( ) - a n d - t w o w o s v e f o r

l h i r l r s ( o I r ' r , ! t . l l s u i r l l y r ' \ . e | yr ' ( , g r r l r r 1 w , , : r ) ( l l ! ! , ) w ( r i \ ( . N , ) \ r y o L lr l r i l l c r h ( ' \ ! ( i L \ , ( ( , f . - ( . \ { r . ' li 1 ( l \ i ! h i i 1 i l r ( t ) i ' l l ( r ' I l i s .

! ) l h r , r ' 1 r o ( ) 1 1 1 l | ( , i r d ( l ( l 1 , s l o L l ( ) w i l r r

s ( ( , \ , J h t r t i s r ) ( , ( ! s s . i l l l ( ) , l ( . 1 ( , '

1 l r L 1 , , ( l : r r r ( ) r ' ( l t . r l o I I ( J L , | l r , J i . l i , ,

"Wait : r Minute.everY other woof

W i r r n I c ( ) L L t c ( i ,t l r r c a . l . '

l " r ' l ) i , t ) : , i l r ( l t c t r i n g l r t t r r L , s r r t , l ( . ( , | l \ , . , h i ( l r ) o r ) i L r ' ( l , r ' : ( . 1 L ( l l ] ! t r : ! ! ( ) v ( nr r s 1 r ) l l o w i : l l : 1 , ( ) 1 . t I : 1 , O l , I l , O : , l l : , O l , l l l , ( ) 1 , l l l . r i ( \ , ) l

l r | . . r 1 , \ \ ' ' . , , , r . 1 " t . ' r " , r r l -

" . , , r , r

1 o r , t l | i 1 { i I l i r l i r r i I i I l r ) r , l o r ' 1 ( ) l ) r ' . r L I r ( , l h i r i } ' , ) u i r r r r ( 1 1 i 1 r ! i I I r ( ( i ( , I r r | ) | ( L { '

t t ( . ' I i r r 1 I i | ( , r r ( , l o l l l \ ! i r h $ ' r ( i r , l I ' i t x i . , i s r r r , i I r ' i , , | ( ! f , . . L ! . 1 , , ' , , i r , i

r l r r r ' ( . : u ( i t , \ t r ' l r r t r r k : 1 ( , w r ' 1 . c l r o u l I ( ) r ' . I l t L r . , t I t L . : r ( ( ( ) r r ( I w ( i r \ ( . t ! , rr r r ( r r I i , ) r r r ' ( I i r ( . r i : r i , r ' 1 ( ) i l , ) i h r r n l h ( ' o l l r ' h i r v i n l l ) , ( r l , , r ( l ( , : c I l r ) i l l r ( ,r l r l r , i u g l r l l r ( . : , r ' c , , I l ( l r ( ) i , J ( i o 0 j ] 1 r t o c ( , u t l L ( ) ( l 1 .

EXERCIsE NO. 15

I ' t i . \ ( l I ( t ; ( )N . \ ! , \ l l t t \ ( i l , s \& t t ,L ] . , , - , -

A v i r i L i h i r l l - t r , i , l o . ! 1 l l l l i i l i ( r i | l l i n \ 1 ) u r l r ' ; r | r r i r , r l l r r r ; r : i ' : : w r ) L r l . l ] ) r ' r , r( ) l ) t " r J r : r l i r r p s o f w o ( ) l { r n . r L o l h o i a s r n i r n y ( l i f l r ' r ' r ' I l l l r l r l . t c r l r s a s - ! ( ) u l l rr n ( l f i g u r . , ) L r t t h ( ' $ , c l 1 v c I ( ) r f i r r ' h ( ) r c . l f y ( ) L r h a v ( i , ) n l y r 1 c w , l s l i y ( ) l l rn ( i q i r l ) o r s t o i c t . v o u 1 l r L V e s , , r r I n , o . ( t . r t ) r i r ( 1 r , , ( r | l . l l t r l t ] l c l ' n r i t ) r i r l l l r Lw c r \ ' € : s ( ) f i r g r c a i m l n v s a r n l ) 1 o 5 , ) ' r r u , v i i l f i n ( l y o u I s c l I h . - c ( r m i r l t l l r l ei o r ' . ! - ( ) g n i z e t h . s r r I l l ) l c r ( ) r ( i s $ i t h ( r L l t { r o u n i i f g ( ) u l . H ( ) r L ' \ ' e r , a s l h i sM r u u : r i 1 , 1 . n r l l . ( l ) , , u I r e f ( , 1 1 , 1 1 , ( c i ( r r l ) ( ' r i c c , c i \ ( , ( l c l 5 i l l ; l h c r ' c l ( ) r ' c , t e s to l r t a v e r t s a n p l c l ( ) s r L - i f - v ( ) u l ' h u n ( i h c s h a v c l r e e n c o f r c c t .

THE FRIJNWAY SYSTEM P a g e 5 1

L e a r n i n g t o c o u n t o u l h . r s g i v e n y o u a b r i c f r e s t f r o m p r l c l i c i n ! :r c r v e a v i n g . N o w i t i s t j m e f o r ) o u 1 o r e s u D t l - v o u r l r r a c 1 i c . . . I h i s t j m eJ o { s h o u l d l e a r n ! o r e w e a v c 1 b e H e r r i n g b o D e \ r e a v e s i t n d s o t n { , o f t h ef r r n c y o n e s . S t a r l w i t h t h o s e n a d e o f c o t L r s c t h r c a d s i t n c l i i r k c L r s i o w .W h e n y o L l m a k e a m i s t a k e , s t u d ) i t t o b e s u r e o f w h l r t y o u L l i d i n c o r r e c t -lJ bcforc doing the thre:rd over. Do not start oul on l complc.x \ , . , ( , . rvc b).t r y i n g 1 o r e w e a v e a d . r m a g e d p l i L c e f i v n t h r . , a d s w i d e ; l ( , i L r n i r r t t r , s - r m ( lm c t h o d i c i t l w : r y t h a t y o L l m a s t e r r ' d t h . r s i m p l e w c a v c s ; F i r s t , w c J ! . ( , o v c ri n t a c l t h r e r d s ; s e c o n d , r e p l a c c s m a l l g a p s i n 1 s i n g k , t h r . : r ( 1 , l | , r L ( w o ,l b c n t h | c ( , c t c . ; t h i r d , r c w e a v ( t w o - w i r y d a m l g c ( l p l l r . o s , t l h i n g ! . J r et o d o t h ( ' c l i p t ) i n g a n d j o i n i n g c o r r e c t l y ; f o u r t h , g o g r r d u a l l y l r o m c o r r s r :t o f i n c r f : r b r i c s ; r n d f i f t h , r c s t r n d r e l a x b y g o i n g l ) l r c k f r { , q u c u l l J 1 r ) d os i m p l ( r r e w . ' i r v i n g w h i c h y o l t h a v c : r l r c : r d y t h o r o l r g h l y r n a s t o r . o d

EXERCTsE NO. t6

OTHUIT ' fWILL WEAVES

' l h ( v i r r i o u s l w i l l w c r r v c s h : r v c d i f f ( , r ( i n t n i r r n t ' s . I r l r l t n ( . 1 L : r n ( ) s !( ) f 1 r ' n w o v c r l i n l t w o r r x l t w o o r ' : L t w o - i t n d - o n ( ) p : r t t ( r . S r : r . g r . r . . o rm ( ) n l y o f l h c l w o i r n ( l - 1 w o w e ; r v c w i l h c ( ) i r r s c r t h r c l ( l s t l L l D g l l ) . u r l u r ( . .( l o v r ' r . 1 c k ) l h i s g ( ' n c r i r l l y o f t l L . l h r e o - i r n d - t w ( ) w c i r v ( , . ( ; r L b t r r d i r ( s . L r In t i r ( l c i r l s ( v { , r i r I ( i i f i ( ' r o n t w e r v r ' s , s o t h c y s h a l l b t d c s c r i b r : d r n n r u r ' i .d e l r r i l .

C l a b u r c l i n c s o f l o n h a v e w o o f t h r . c r L d s r u n r r i r g O 1 , t J 2 , O 1 , l l l , ( , i c .l l o w c v ( r , l h c w r r r p w i l L f o l I o w t h t ' r ' ( ' v e t s e p l t t ( ' r n r r n d b r , ( ) 2 , l l l , ( ) : 1 ,

U 1 , e t c . S a n r p l c N ( ) , 8 h a s t h e t w o - a n d - o n e p a t t c r n . N c v r r t h o l u s s ,c o l l ) l ] ) o r l l v u s e d , j a b a | d i n c s h a v e t h e t w o - a n d - t w o w e a v e . l l e n r a r n b e r .t h : r l i t i s t b c p r ' D { r ' e s s i o r r i n t h e w e a v e w h i c h c r e a t e s t h e t w i l l s ) l r t h e

A wcavc f requen t l y f ound i n gabard ine has woo f go ing U l , O l , UL ,O1 , U2 , e t c . and warp runn ing 03 , U2 , 03 , U2 , e1c ,

Page 52

Although gabardines are the most di f f icul t to reweave, pract ice andpat ience wi l l lead you to success. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REWEAVEANY GABARDINES I]NTIL YOU THOROUGHLY IJNDERS'|AND THEP A ' f l ' b R N O F ' I H E W U A V E . A s t h c p r c c e e d i n g p : r r . r g r a p h s s h o w , t h e r ei s q u j t L - ; r v i l r i ( i t y o f w e a v e s i n g a b r r r d i n c s . \ ' o u m u s t n ( , v o r s l ( i p t h ec o l i n l r n g - o u l p r ( ) c e s s ,

N o t e t h o l ) r o g r c s s i o n i n e a c h c : r s e a n d f o l L o w i l . I f y o L r s t L r r t U 2 , O 1 ,L I 2 , O 1 , c i c . r . w c : r v i n g i L w o o f l h r o l r d i n r t w o - , r n d o n e w c r v ( ' , y o l r r n u s trewcavc' thc next threcd lJelow i t - start ing fron) the same warp threadO 1 , U 2 , O l , U 2 , o t c . T h e t h i r d w o o f t h r e a d , s t a r t i n g l r o m t h e s a r n ep ( ) i n i , w o u l d b c r c w , ) v c n U l , O l , U 2 , O 1 , e t ( j . ' l h e f o u r t h w o o f t h r o a drepelt : ' , Lhe f i rst . ' fh is is the technique for n.aking the dial jc lnal r idgesc a l l e . l t w i u s . I n w e a v i n g , c o u n t i n g o u t i s a l w a J s d o n e f r o m . i g h i t o l ( i f t .

l l ( c o r t r i n g b o t h a c c u r a t e a n d s l ( i l l f u l a t r ( . w c - a v i n g a n y A r r ) ) i r r ' ( l t n e w e a v .t a k ( s ( l u i l c a l o n A t i r n e , s o ( l o n o t g ( r t d i s c ( ) u r r g c d w h e n ) ( ) L t n , i L k c l r l i s -t a k e s . P r o f i t b y t h c n r , a n d r e s t o r e y o u r c o f i d c n c c i n . , . ( ) L L r . s ( . l i b y r c -weaving danr: ]ged a.eas in simpler wcirves fo. awhi lc. Donrt t )c rn ah u r l . y t o r e w c a v c t h e f i n e r - t h r c : r d c d g a b a r d i n e s .

V e r y t ( i r n p l i r l g e l o t h o n w h i c h k ) t r y y o u r r e w e l v i n g a b i l L t y i s g a l ) a r -d i n e w h i c h h a s O l , U 4 w o o f a n d 0 4 , U l w a f p b e c a u s e i t i s ( l u i t c s o f t a n deasy to harldle. ' fopcoats are frequent ly of this wcave and occ.rsion: l ly,m e n a n d w o m e n r s s u i t s . A l m o s t e v e r y l c a r n e r a t t c n r p t s t o r e w e a v a r o nt l fs cloth before he is expert enough to ( lo i t . The threads :rr .c extra-f ine, whicl) inal :es i t di f f icul t to eet thcm into the propcr prt t ter 'n. Buti f y o u t r y a n d f a i l o \ ' e r a n d o v e r a g i i . i n , i h c r c i s n o c a u s e f o r . a l a r n r . [ tt a k e s l i m e l o b e c o m e a n e x p e r t . F u r t h e r r n o r c , y o u m a J ' b c c o m e : r r re x p e r t a t r c w e a v i n g s e v e r a l t y l i e s o f c l o t h w i l h o u t b c c o m i r r g a n e x p c r tat reweaving al l thc fancy weaves that you inai cncounter.

T HFJ FRE N I { AY SYSTEM

,T HN FRDNWAY S \ S f U M Page 53

EXERCISE NO. I7

Ii }JWIi A I 'INC FANCY W].]AVDS

S o r n i . I i r n ( ) : ( ) i n t i i r i l t r ' : u r d o r i , i l r l l l l r r r n ( ) ( ) r 1 r p ( ' r ' s ( ) n

i ( . 1 s ( n ( ) u g h ( , 1 1 h ( , n r r ( r r ' ( , w e i L v { 1 , ) i ) , c ( ) r n , i , r l ( x t ) , r ' r o n r h ( , i r j - \ i r h r ' r r r ' r , i Il | c L r 5 t o m ( r ' b l . i o I s r , , r r i r ! ' i r l ' l n c n i w i l h r v ( r ' j f i ] r r c v r v { , i r \ ' ( , 1 r ' l l h i r n 1 ' r ; i 1. i l ) L r w i l l ( l o ) ' ( ) u r l , ( , s l l ) u l l h i r l l h ( r 1 \ ! ( , v ( | | t ) l i L ( . r ' n r g h i l , ( r . ( , r . w l r i r 1 v L s il ) l ( ' L ) k ( , n ( . y ( . s .

( l ( ) t u r l ( ' L I t t h ( w c r v c . l ) ( ) r ( ) L r r 1 ) c : r t i ( ) r c w { r : r v c t h c ( l r r r ) l ! ( , ( l : r r r i r r r s. i o s { : i y : i . - t ! ) s 5 r l ) l c l r l . { ) l h { ' { , r ' i ! l t l r i ) l l ) a t t r r r r - Y r ) L l r J , : L ) J i ( v r r } ! u ( : c r ' . r -l u l . S ( ) l l r u c l l i l e P c n t l s o n 1 h ( , : r . { r L r r ' f c r w i t h w h r c } r r , o u l l i L r J c ( l ( ) L r t l l l | ,w c r r v ( , o l t l x t j i r . r n r c n t : l ] r ( i t h c l n , o u l | t ( , f ( x t , { , r i ( n c ( r L r r , l : l r l l . y ( , u l r i i \ ' {l ) a d . I ) , ) i r o t i r i . i r n l t ) l t h c s c i r ) l r i r r l c l a s l i , r u D l i l y o u l r i r ! ( l ) { ' { ' D r ( w c i r v -r n l l f ( ) r ' r t L i r n J r r r ( I r t h s .

L r r , ) r r u I h r s i l ' r f r ( , l u I r t l . y i r r l l o s : ; i l ) 1 r ' t o ( l L r t ) l i ( r i , ' f i r r i j y ! v ( r t \ ( : lc x r { l . l y , l h { t , r o r j c : , : j : r r : : r 1 l r r 1 t : : r t n o u f l : r g i n g . l l i : i l r ( s 1 . r ) ( ) l l . ( ) l I i L r , r , , ) L L il l r c c r l d s , r t L h c < l r L t t r : t g c r l l h . i i r { l r i l ) { r . r u : t r ' t I ) I r r { 1 r r l t l h r . t n w , ) l r l r | , r 1 r , , r, l i f f i ( u L i . A i u : r L r l l , v ( ) U $ r i l l l o r L I n t o c r n r ( ) u f l r r g ( o 1 f ( r : t i v . L v l . l r ( i { { ) l r ' , r e Iw c i l v ( s l r ( l l I c y o L r ! ! r l l l ) r ' : i u ( i ( : r : : i f L L i , r 1 t h { l r r f i | | , , r ' o r r ( s . l ) , , ( l o l , u r ( 1 , ' r ' -I r l i f 1 ( ) r ' ( l ) a j t . l l r ' 1 , , c ( l l l t r r L g o { l P l r L i : e s l ; y t l r i s L c ( i h u i ( t u c . } l o w t l i l i g c n t l v

. ! ' ( ) r r l J I ' r r l i c c a n d h o w l ) r r i s l i r l i i n g l y c r r { } f u i - y ( r u : r r e \ ! r t l r . y o r L r w r ' r ' i r w i t ll , c r \ . i ( l L n i l r \ t h l k i n ( l ( ) f w ( , r ' l { J , , u ( 1 , ) .

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