Forum Magazine Fall 09

Forum

Kilgore

trout

The magazine of

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2009

cleveland, ohio

3 WAYS TO MULTIPLYYOURWARDROBE

INTO THEWOODSIT’S ALLABOUTQUALITYNORTHCOASTSTYLE:FALL FASHION2009

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Pure Cashmere Pinstripe Suits

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28601 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122

216-831-0488

www.kilgoretrout.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTORHans GschliesserMANAGING EDITORJillian SpraguePROJECT MANAGERLisa MontemorraDESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiCONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ MitchellMERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob MitchellDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONFran SalamonPRODUCTION MANAGERPeg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUPPUBLISHERStuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEOBritton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COOMac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, COGarys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MNKilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PAMalouf’s LUBBOCK, TX, BURLINGAME, CAMario’s PORTLAND, OR, SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NYMitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KYRubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 13 regional editions for

member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2009. Published by

Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 •

Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108,

212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers

accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts,

transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be

reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 2.

Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES3 Welcome Letter4 Fashion Sketchbook12 Kilgore Trout News13 Footwear: Made in Suede

FASHION18 It’s in the Details: Shopping for Suits20 Anatomy of a Quality Shoe22 Cashmere: A Guide to Value 24 Into the Woods 32 Accessories Make the Man

DEPARTMENTS14 Ask Forum38 Travel: Woodland Whimsy 40 Food: A Recipe for Design 44 Speed: The Tesla Roadster 48 Art: Modern Times 50 Chef Style: Scott Boswell of Stella52 End Page: Regrets Only

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Legacy Village

24667 Cedar Road

Lyndhurst Ohio

216.382.7800

contessagallery.com

Chuck Close | Recent WorkOn view at Contessa Gallery September 11 — November 1, 2009Please visit our website for opening reception details and related events.

Phil/Fingerprint, 2009. Chuck Close (b. 1949-), Screenprint in 25 colors, 54 x 46 inches.

Don't miss the

concurrent exhibition at

Akron Art Museum:

Familiar Faces:Chuck Close inOhio Collections

09/05/09 — 01/03/10

Public SymposiumSunday, October 11

Generously sponsoredby Contessa Galleryand Akron Art Museum's George & Ethel Nobil Fund.

Up Close and Personalwith Chuck Close's FriendsLinda Rosenkrantz, Mark Greenwoldand Christopher Finch

Known as the subject of the Akron Art Museum’s massive, incredibly detailed, nine-foot painting Linda, Rosenkrantz, along with fellow Close subject Mark Greenwold, and Close biographer Christopher Finch will share their unique perspective of Close’s work. Hosted at Akron Main Library Auditorium adjacent to the Akron Art Museum. Tickets at akronartmuseum.org.

Visit contessagallery.com for links and additional details.

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BRICKS AND MORTAR MATTER

welcome

3 FORUM

It's the locally owned independents that make a community.By Wally Naymon, Kilgore Trout shopkeeper

Let me get right to the point: There's only one Cleveland. There's only one Northeast Ohio. It's a place we're proud to call home — and we should all be willing to fight for the vitality of our region. The last few years have offered a wake-up call to us all. The go-go 90s are gone-gone, and all that we took for granted we no longer can. It wasn't long ago that you might do some of your shopping in Cleveland, some in New York, and some still on your travels around the globe. It seemed there was enough money to go around, and we were all doing just fine.

Times have changed, and it's come into focus just how important our collective support of local busi-ness has become. It's the local guys who give back to the community time and again — our friends whose ads you see in Forum: Chef Zack Bruell, Contessa Gallery, Stoddard Auto, and the rest are the people who walk the walk. And your favor-ite deli, the establishments in Little Italy, and the Cedar Lee, too. When you patronize them, or us, you're keeping it local. And in addition to keeping people employed, your dol-

lars go right back into our area's economy and the civic and cultural organizations these independent businesses support in ways large and small.

I've just become the president of the Apparel Forum, a group of a dozen of the leading independent, locally owned clothing stores around the nation of which we have been a member for over 14 years. We support one another with fresh ideas and blunt honesty, each sea-son we collaborate on this magazine, and we sometimes pool resources as a buying group. We're a community of people looking out for each other, and we've "got each others' backs."

During this downturn, we know you've had our backs, too. Your vis-its, referrals, and purchases mean so much. Thank you.

The phrase "I've got your back" originates from battle, and the need for protection from behind while looking ahead.

While we all look ahead, let's not forget that in a community, we all need to have each others' backs.

We look forward to seeing you at Kilgore Trout this season.

‘‘Every time you open your wallet, consider whether the money stays local.’’

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FashionIl lust aA sketchbook for the new season at Kilgore Trout.

Every guy needs driving

gloves!

This season, we commissioned Deanna

Gradkowski, a recent graduate of the

Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman

School of Fashion Design and

Merchandising at Kent State University, to

interpret the new collection.

Last year, the Pittsburgh native enjoyed a semester abroad in

Florence — working and studying at Kent’s campus there and

having the experience of a lifetime. Deanna says, “Italy has

given me a more sophisticated outlook on the fashion world.

Not only did Europe open my eyes to a different world of

fashion, but it helped me mature as an individual.”

Deanna received the prestigious Stanley Heller NAMSB

Foundation Award for Excellence in Menswear Design, and the

Critic’s Award for her senior portfolio fashion show. Her current

goal is to land a position as an assistant menswear designer

with an established fashion house. Then, with her enthusiasm

toward fashion and diligent work ethic, she’ll be well on her way

to achieving her dream of becoming a head designer.

This continues our long association with KSU, including visits by

fashion students, internships, and the Kilgore Trout President’s

Scholarship in Fashion Merchandising.

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Szen

J Brand

Diesel, Hiltl, Etro

John Varvatos

J Brand has a label and fi t

for every woman. Classic fi t

Burgundy, curvy fi t Blue Label,

and indulgent Black Label.

This one’s a cigarette leg, slim fi t,

mid-rise stovepipe.

Reversible cashmere sweater

with raw seams. Plaid on one

side, but turned inside out

it’s gorgeous gray with the

faintest plaid showing

through. Cute!

Diesel Black Gold hip length jacket of black coated cotton and nylon

fabric worn over a Varvatos Star USA cotton checked shirt and Etro silk

tie. The trousers are cotton fl annel from Hiltl. Wool scarf and driving

gloves are our own by Kilgore Trout.

Gorgeous necklaces by Iosselliani,

handcrafted in Italy!

White+

WarrenHer simple tee from White+Warren

is a wardrobe must.

Extra-long sleeves, rolled for a hint of

contrast.

Art Direction-Design :

Christopher Hixson

Fashion Il lustration :

Deanna Gradkowski

Facing Page:

ted


Gimo’s

Calvaresi

Masons

Technical outerwear can still be soft and feminine.

This exquisitely quilted down jacket with integral

zipper vest from Calvaresi offers proof.

SzenWashed100%

Merino wool

reversible sweater

is perfect with or

without a shirt

beneath.

The classic fl ight jacket reinterpreted

by the Italian artisan leathercrafters

at Gimo’s. The skin has a butter-

soft, vintage feel with a contrast

shearling collar and lightweight

wool plaid lining.

A modern fi t corded cotton

plaid trouser that’ll put you at

ease with autumn comfort.

Serfontaine premium denim now has XFIT — a revolutionary lycra

featuring 360o flexibility.

How about these Salvatore Ferragamo taupe suede Venetian loafers with contrast whip stitch and chunky

rubber sole!?

new traditions...


Catherine

Malandrino

SandA new modern collection

from Sand, artfully blending

old world elements with

modern twists. The

traditional herringbone

jacket has purple

elbow patches and a

contemporary fi t. The

washed lambswool

argyle sweater

complements the

satin cotton striped

shirt — all by Sand.

MasonsThese washed corded trousers

exhibit Masons’ philosophy

of ‘traces of the past with the

signs of the times.’ Their special

fabrication and wash processes

create the comfort that can only

come from time.

Catherine Malandrino’s blue satin trenchcoat is a

must have as the season starts to chill. It’s the perfect

weight for cool autumn nights on the town.

This look pairs great with Donald J. Pliner’s CARSON model perforated wingtip boot with distressed sport suede.

David Lerner leggings are very

hot for fall!


Dena

FursQuilted day or evening

jacket with rabbit collar.

Ooh la lah!

Swiss ChrissTonal plaid quilted jacket, with the

unique effect created by an overlay of

a technical organza fabric that gives

these jackets a deep rich color

tone. The turtleneck is Merino

wool rib from Andrea Fenzi.

Seal Kay typically has the most

deluxe washes of all the denim we

see and this stitched detail version is no exception.

Denim is all about looking and feeling good. Consider it denim therapy.

Wear it withJohn Varvatos shearling lined

water resistant work boots.

lush color tones...


Angelo

Nardel l i Tutto Angelo Nardelli!

Each piece is amazing on

its own, and together

capture the essence of

the direction from Italy.

The jacket is cashmere

and wool in their

superleggere (softly

constructed) fi t. The

crewneck sweater

with lavender dots

is also cashmere

and wool, with

the lavender

oxford button

down shirt.

EtroSoon to become your favorite, the jewel

toned chenille plaid jacket is paired with

a satin print shirt. The classic charcoal

fl annel trouser is from Incotex.

127 steps go into making these Gravati shoes.

Light brown suede inspired English

Brogue with rubber sole for Cleveland winters. Cool and

practical!

The trousers are a soft

moleskin cotton in a creamy

beige featuring another

highlight for fall — white,

cream, beige, soft neutral

bottoms providing the fashion

statement for the gentleman.

You gotta check out the lining of this Etro jacket!


Ermenegildo

Zegna

Catherine

MalandrinoSexy, silk-lined cocktail dress with beautifully detailed

patchwork by the always sophisticated Catherine

Malandrino — one of France’s fi nest exports!

to be continued...

Finish it off with a great hat, pocket handkerchief, the right cufflinks

and belt. In other words, don’t forget the accessories make the man!

You already have the wristwatch.

Don’t forget to keep those shoes polished, and stored with shoe

trees, so they’ll stay in great shape.

Prince-of-Wales plaid suit in the new ‘Milano’

fi t, featuring a softer shoulder and higher

armhole to achieve a more modern silhouette.

Silk knit tie by Roda of Italy and cotton spread

collar shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Great accessories and bags are arriving, along with terrific

clutches from Laura Merkin.

See more — in store. It’s an illustrious season at Kilgore Trout. We look forward to your visit!


www.AlexFineHomes.coman award-winning design/build company

440.729.8880

LUXURY HOMES

www.AlexFineHomes.com

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KILGORETROUT.COM

fashion alerts

12 FORUM

Too bad the other guy with your size signed up for Kilgore Trout Fashion Alerts and showed up for the sale before you. He got the deal, while all you got was that pain in the pit of your stomach. Sound familiar?

Did you know you can have all the latest news on happenings at Kilgore Trout sent directly to your e-mail account or smartphone? You'll be in control of the news — no more Mr. Postman deciding when you find out about our hot sales, the intriguing trunk shows, or the chance to meet, mingle and nosh at one of our store events. We promise to respect your time and privacy: We keep the alerts brief, smart-phone friendly, and only frequent enough to keep you up-to-date. Our goal is to inform, not annoy.

Upcoming Trunk ShowsAs we go to press, we're putting together an exciting season of trunk shows for men and women. Visit our website for the complete list.

Online Issue of ForumIf you want to share your Forum with a friend or refer to it when you're on the go, it's all available under the 'About' tab on our site.

Designer LinksThe majority of our designers are listed on our site, most with links to their own websites where you can stay abreast of the latest collections.

E-mail your Sales ConsultantHave a question or need to get in touch? E-mail anytime, 24/7.

‘‘What a difference a day makes — especially when that super 120s suit you had your eye on gets marked down and you don't know it.’’

Are you getting all the latest newsas it's happening?

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MADE IN SUEDEBy JB Dunn

‘‘Other than on your wedding day, there's never a good reason to have cold feet.’’

From a John Varvatos brown distressed work boot to a Gravati English-inspired Brogue, suede is where it’s at in footwear for fall and winter 2009—and not just your stan-dard black suede and brown suede. The designers have delved deeply into the autumn color palette with beauti-ful shades of taupe and grey. To top it off they washed them, distressed them and in general turned the humble shoe into an object of desire. Though you may really want to place them on the mantle, you’re best advised to put them on your feet because, in most cases, they’ve been made waterproof, or at least resistant, and are extremely soft and comfortable.

With the depths of clothing fabrications and myriad colors, all of our footwear designers have really stepped up to the plate and created absolutely beautiful, yet prac-tical, shoes that will pair wonderfully with everything from jeans to a new suit this coming season. So don’t just look at them, take your favorite pair out for a test ride. . . Regardless of the forecast, you’ll be in style: warm, dry and comfortable. You’ll have it made in suede this fall.

13 FORUM


14 FORUM

Q: I’m told I dress well but everything I own is fairly basic.

How can I add some personality to my very conservative wardrobe?Simple: with great accessories! It’s a concept that Europeanmen understand better than we do: the pocket square, thewatch, the cufflinks, the scarf and the sunglasses all speakvolumes about your sense of style. Come into the store andwe’ll show you the latest accessories for fall ’09, many ofthem more affordable than you’d guess.

What’s more, a great accessory can sometimes becomeyour personal trademark. Our friend Terry wears RayBanWayfarers, day and night; Dany goes nowhere without hisred cashmere muffler; Allyn wears only vintage watches,to which he adds a bright colored leather strap; Bill israrely spotted without his silver dog tag necklaceengraved with his girlfriend’s initials. Once you find anitem or two that truly express your personality, your basicwardrobe becomes anything but.

It’s a misconception that made-to-measure suits are just forguys with fit problems. The beauty of made-to-measure is notjust perfect fit (everyone’s body is somewhat asymmetricaland MTM is the best way to provide balance), but also theability to custom design the details. Maybe you want workingbuttonholes on the jacket sleeves, a center vent instead ofside vents, notch lapels, exclusive fabric, or a super-slim fit.Whatever your predilection, made-to-measure allows you tohave the suit of your dreams. And as we all know, nothingelse gives the emotional lift of wearing a fabulous suit!

Q:Why should I invest in made-to-measure clothing when my suit size is readily available?

ASKFORUM

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16 FORUM

Q:There’s so much cheap clothingout there these days; why

shouldn’t I buy a $300 suit if it looks decent?Aside from the fact that it’s unlikely to last morethan a season or two (the glue that affixes thechest piece creates ripples when dry-cleaned), acheap suit tends to reflect negatively upon thewearer. While not everyone can detect nuances,even an untrained eye is turned off to unnaturalshoulder placement, shoddy construction, andcheap fabrics (shiny, stiff, without drape).

In contrast, a good suit will get you through anydoor, is surprisingly comfortable, and will makeyou feel terrific, powerful and sexy. This is not justmarketing propaganda: come into the store and tryone on for yourself, just to feel the difference. It’san investment that’s immediately amortized inmore ways than we can list here.

Q:I’m not a skinny guy; can I wear the new

slim-cut suits?Absolutely. If properly fitted, a

slim suit will make you looktaller, thinner and sexier. It’snot about tight but ratherabout proportion: a narrowershoulder, trimmer lapels, anarrower trouser leg, higherbutton stance—all of thisgives the illusion of thin.What’s more, our experttailors will ensure thatnothing is tight oruncomfortable. Come into

the store and be transformed!

Q:What’s today’s properlength for men’s coats?

The short answer: anywhere from a few inches abovethe knee to mid-thigh. Topcoats and trench coatshave evolved in recent seasons and these shorterlengths are not just more modern, but also morepractical. That said, if you’re emotionally attached toyour knee-length or below-the-knee cashmere top-coat, of course you can wear it! Or you can bring it into our professional tailors and they’ll advise onwhether it’s alterable.

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clothing

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How to inspect a suit before you buy. By Jillian Sprague

“Quality in a suit has a lot to do withthe parts that don’t show,” says JohnSpillyards, a clothing expert who’sbeen helping well-dressed men findstellar suits for more than 20 years.Before you invest in a new suit, takea closer look to guarantee your gar-ment is a worthy one.

Fabric. A well-made suit feels goodto the touch and will be opaque whenheld up to the light. Tightly wovenfibers give a garment strength andresilience, whereas a lesser suit mayappear gauze-like, a sign that it willfall apart sooner. Crumple the sleeveand then release it—a quality fabricwon’t easily hold wrinkles.

Stitching. The best suits arestitched by hand and worth theslightly higher price tag. Skilled tai-lors spend upwards of 20 hours put-ting in over 3,000 hand stitches,molding every aspect of the gar-ment into perfect shape to allow formovement and contouring to the

body. Hand stitching also strength-ens seams considerably more thanmachine stitching.

Buttonholes. A buttonhole madeby machine is rigid and strainswhen you push the button through.When hand-sewn, it’s soft and flexi-ble, molding around the buttoninstead of tugging at it. Workingbuttons on suit jacket sleeves are aplus, allowing your cuff more roomto move when you’re on the go.

Lining. Fine suits are lined withbemberg or silk instead of polyester.There’s a common misconceptionthat half-lined suits are low-quality,but it’s just the opposite: a full lin-ing can hide shoddy tailoring, whilethe exposure of a half lining ensuresthat seams are nicely finished.

Canvassing. Interior layers ofcanvas give a suit jacket its shape;the more used, the more constructedyour jacket. Better suits have a bast-ed canvas chest piece stitched into

place; in a cheap suit the canvas isbasically hot glued in, resulting inripples after only a few cleanings.

Fit. There’s a return to sartorialtailoring, so if you’re used to thebaggier cuts of years past, it mighttake time to adjust to the new trim-mer fit. But since the seams in high-quality suits are put in by hand,your garment will quickly mold toyour body. The more you wear it, themore comfortable it will become.

Service. When you’re consideringa major purchase, a good sales asso-ciate will take time to explain theseaspects of a suit’s construction andhelp you find the exact fit and styleyou’re looking for.

If you choose to invest in a finesuit, you’ll wear it for years to comeand feel like a million bucks eachtime you do. “High-end suiting isthe most legitimate value in theclothing business,” concludesSpillyards.

IT’S IN THE DETAILS

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footwear

By William Kissel

“Many people underestimate theeffect that high quality shoes can haveon your entire well-being,” explainsPaul Grangaard, the president ofAmerican shoe maker Allen Edmonds.“Your feet are the foundation for yourentire skeletal support structure.”

While shoe trends come and go,the basic components of fine shoemaking never waffle. Look first atthe quality of the leather. You cantell a high quality shoe by how softthe leather feels, not how thin itlooks. Thinner leathers tend to teareasier. Another good barometer is

the interior lining. A well-made shoewill always have one made of leatherto keep your feet comfortable anddry, as well as prevent the interiorstitching from chafing your foot.

Notice too how the leather is fin-ished, even if the shoe appears to bea classic black. Solid colored shoessometimes disguise flaws in theskin. “We do a leather called Lucidothat has a color overlay, whichmeans the finish goes on black, butas you burnish it there is rich colorthat shows underneath,” explainsCory Haberman of Cole Haan.

Equally essential to first-classshoe making is the sole. The finestdress footwear is always producedwith Goodyear-welted sole con-struction. This means an extra layerof material, known as the welt, issewn between the upper and thesole, which is customarily made ofleather. Because the welt is sewn,not glued, it can be easily takenapart and replaced when the solesdevelop holes. Many fine shoe mak-ers will gladly resole your shoes fora nominal cost, greatly extendingtheir life. If you factor that into theoverall cost, a good pair of shoescan last for decades and ultimatelyprove to be the smarter investment.

‘‘While shoe trendscome and go, the basiccomponents of fine shoemaking never waffle.’’

20 FORUM

SHOE CARE TIPS:• Nothing breaks down footwear

faster than water in the leather. Use cedar shoe trees betweenwearings to absorb the moistureand retain the shoe’s shape.

• Don’t wear the same shoes two days in a row; try to rotate them so the leather can breathe betweenwearings.

• Use a good clear polish regularly and colored polish only when thefinish has faded.

ANATOMY OF A QUALITY SHOE

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luxury fibers

Good quality cashmere is one of themost rare, most luxurious and mostcomfortable natural fibers in theworld, its softness unsurpassed. Whowould have thought that something soextravagant comes from the fine,fuzzy hair that keeps wild goats warmin the sub-zero temperatures of China,Mongolia and beyond?

Style expert Carson Kressley oncecalled cashmere “the flat-screen TV ofyarns, the Super Bowl of sweaters.”More than just sweaters, cashmere canbe found in a variety of items includingsuits, jackets and a wide range ofaccessories. But why is it special, andhow do you know if you’re getting agood value?

The name cashmere comes fromKashmir, the wild and mountainousarea of India where the fiber was origi-nally sourced. Today, fleece also comesfrom Australia, New Zealand, Iran,Pakistan, Afghanistan and Turkey, butquality differs by region because manyplaces lack the harsh environmentalelements of high altitude and cold thatallow the goats to grow an ultra-soft

A GUIDE TO VALUEWhat you need to know about cashmere. By Nicola Harrison

22 FORUM

IT TAKES EACH GOAT FOUR YEARSTO PRODUCE ENOUGH CASHMEREFOR ONE SWEATER.

Cashmere isn’t just

for sweaters

anymore: it can be

found in a wide

variety of clothing

and accessories for

men and women.

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coat. In order to survive suchextreme conditions, the goats havecoarse outer hair, beneath which liesa much finer fiber that insulatesthese animals from the bitter cold.Only this soft, fine under hair isused in the production of cashmere.

While human hair has a diameterof 75 microns, a cashmere fiber can-not be more than 19 microns, withmany high-end manufacturers plac-ing the limit at 16 microns. Becauseof these specifications, it takes eachgoat four years to produce enoughcashmere for one sweater—that’sfour miles of yarn!

Gathering the fibers is a tedious,labor intensive procedure. After thegoat is combed by hand during itsshedding season in spring, the har-vested fibers are sorted for color,length and fineness. They are thenscoured or washed, de-haired(removing the coarser hairs), dyedand spun. Once they’re ready to bemade into fabric, the fibers are hand-framed to a garment’s specifications.

Not all cashmere is created equal.Differentiating factors include wherethe raw fiber originated, whether itwas collected by hand or machine,how it was separated, processed orbleached, washed, dyed and spun. Alower quality, low-priced fiber isshorter and more likely to pill andlose its shape. Additionally, if it’sbeing made into a light colored gar-ment, it must also be bleached,which can weaken the fibers further.Super fine cashmere yarn of the bestpossible quality can be made onlyfrom long fibers. The longer thefiber, the tighter the knit or theweave, which means less pilling andlonger life for the garment.

While thread count is importantwhen it comes to buying sheets, yarncount or ply count has little to do

with the actual quality of cashmere.Ply is the number of individualstrands or threads of hair twistedtogether to make one yarn. A three-ply sweater, rather than being superi-or to a two-ply, is simply one strandthicker, not better. A higher ply justmeans more fibers in each yarn,yielding a weightier garment.Consider ply only when you aredeciding between a winter sweater tokeep you toasty and a layering pieceto go under your sport coat.

Thin cashmere is not lower qualitythan a thick winter garment. In fact,summer weight cashmere is oftenconsidered even higher in quality(and sometimes price) since itrequires finer, more costly yarns andhighly specialized expertise to manu-facture.

A quality garment will show veryfew loose fibers, have a consistentand tight knit with good seam con-struction, and be soft and sensuousto the touch. But beware of a gar-ment that feels overly soft, almostslippery or buttery. This is due toover-processing of the fiber andcould result in quick pilling, prema-ture wear or loss of shape.

And look at the tag: just becausesomething says cashmere doesn’tmean it’s pure cashmere. If it isn’tclearly marked 100% on the label,then it probably isn’t. Some gar-ments have only 10 percent cash-mere and the rest could be wool.Don’t be afraid of blends (a silk andcashmere blend yields a fabuloustouch); just know what you’re get-ting before you purchase.

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INTO THE WOODSINTO THE WOODS

~~24_fashion sportswear_FINAL.indd 4~~24_fashion sportswear_FINAL.indd 4 7/17/09 11:55 AM7/17/09 11:55 AM

COZY CABLE KNITS... LEAVES UNDERFOOT... CRISP BREEZES... BOLD ORANGES... A BLAZING BONFIRE...

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAL YEEPRODUCED BY SUSAN F.SIDOR


NEW NEUTRALS... PRINTS AND PLAIDS... COOL EVELOGS ON THE FIRE... PURPLES AND PLUMS...


NINGS... A WARM EMBRACE... MOSS-COVERED ROCKS...RIBBED CORDUROY... LINGERING SUNLIGHT...


SHADES OF GRAY... ZIPPED UP... INDIAN SUMMER... HARVEST... SHORTER DAYS... FAMILY AND FRIENDS...


SIGNS OF CHANGE... A CHILL IN THE AIR... NEWSOFT WOOL... SUPPLE LEATHERS... A FULL MOON...



LONG WALKS... FALLING LEAVES... COZY CASHMERE... BUTTONED-UP COMFORT... LAYERS OF WARMTH...

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fashion

classic

Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO for RourkeMGT.comProduced by Susan F. Sidor

ACCESSORIESMAKETHEMANTRIPLE YOUR WARDROBE’S IMPACTWITH QUALITY ACCESSORIES.

1.

1 SUIT, 3 WAYSChange a suit’spersonality with theright accessories.Totally transform thelook with a classic tie & cufflinks, modernfootwear & a high-voltage pocket square,or pull out all thestops with a trendy belt & cool eyewear.

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1 SPORTCOAT, 3 WAYSChange thelook of yoursportcoat forany occasion.Update witha great watch& messengerbag, an argylesweater & 5-pocket cords,or wow ’emwith sunglasses& a bold sportshirt.

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DENIM, 3 WAYSUpdate theattitude ofyourfavorite jeansand let themtake you fromcasual to cool.Completelychange the look with a cashmerecardigan &scarf, a slick hat & leatherbag, or lay low in a hoodie & sneakers.

fashionM

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38 FORUM

WOODLANDWHIMSY

travel

Connecticut’s hidden gemis an escape for all seasons. By Jillian Sprague Tucked amid 113 acres of quiet forest lies Winvian, acollection of 18 charming cottages, each with a dis-tinct design. Conceived by 15 architects and builtfrom local materials, each has a king-size bed, steamshower and a living area with refrigerator and barfor extreme luxury and comfort.

The cottages are all Connecticut-themed, butthat’s where the similarities end. Whether youchoose to spend the night in Treehouse (a playfulcabin perched among branches) or Helicopter(made from the body of a Coast Guard chopper),Winvian will delight your senses.

Before your visit, knowledgeable guest assistantswill help you decide where to stay. Do you like tocuddle up in front of a crackling fire with a goodbook? Library is the cabin for you. Do you enjoyhorseback riding and all things equestrian? Stable isa perfect fit. They’ll also set up activities you maywant to partake in during your stay—from cookinglessons to hot air ballooning, fly-fishing to car racing.

The staff of Winvian aims to please, and canaccommodate almost any scenario. Reserve onecabin or the entire property; it’s an idyllic setting fora romantic weekend getaway, an intimate weddingor celebration, a corporate retreat or your next fami-ly reunion. Whatever the occasion, prepare for anexperience unlike any other.

For details and rates go to winvian.com.

ESCAPE FROM REALITY

Choose any of Winvian’s

unique accommodations and

get lost in fantasy land.

Top: The Seth Bird House and

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unique and colorful living area.

KIL_P38.ps - 7/17/2009 3:41 PM

agavedenim[for him]

[for her]

agavenectar

_Agave.ps - 6/26/2009 13:07 PM

A RECIPE FOR DESIGN

food

40 FORUM

Prepare a fashionable feast to please any palate.By Cally Jamis Vennare

During a recent trip to Italy, I foundmyself more passionate than everabout two great loves—food andfashion. (Wine, I must admit, is aclose third.) The intense texturesand brilliant colors of Italian foodcreated a unique juxtaposition offashion and flavor in my mind. Basilgreen. Pomodoro red. Eggplant pur-ple. Funghi brown. Mozzarella white.Espresso black.

Each subtle shade and huereminded me of rich jewel-tones,warm earth-tones or stark black andwhite patterns that I typically associ-ate with artisan-inspired fabrics andfashions. Every meal created a dis-tinctive color palette on my plate.And when we visited friends in

Abruzzi, there was a new ingredient.The furnishing, you might say. It wasthe added expression of love andpride in every dish presented. Eachrecipe, no matter how simple orcomplex, evoked a broad smile and afond memory from years past.

Was the wine going to my head? Idon’t think so. After a few inquiries,I was relieved to discover that manyof the world’s top fashion designersare strongly inspired by food.Whether it was a favorite dish orone simple ingredient, the nostalgicstories and happy anecdotes cameforth with abundance. Read on fortasty tales and delicious recipesfrom some of our favorite designers.Buon appetito!

‘‘Many of the world’s topfashion designersare stronglyinspired by food.’’

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ANNA ZEGNA |Ermenegildo ZegnaMy favorite recipe is Risotto al tartu-fo d’Alba. I love this dish not only forthe refined taste, but also because itreminds me of many happy and joy-ful moments spent with friends andfamily. Truffles from Piemonte, theregion my family comes from andwhere my grandfather, ErmenegildoZegna, founded the ErmenegildoZegna Group almost 100 years ago,are known to be the best in theworld. As they say, “Piedmont comesinto its own in fall, the time of truf-fles.”

Somehow, the colors of the Risottoal tartufo also remind me of my fam-ily’s tradition. The white of the ricecan be associated with the whitestand purest cashmere that has char-acterized Zegna for all these years,and the color of the truffle is thebrown of the ground where OasiZegna has extended.

A good risotto depends on thequality of the water, which is alsofundamental for fabrics. In fact, thewater in which our textiles arewashed and dyed strongly influencesthe overall quality and softness. Thearea of Trivero, in the Biellesi Alps,where the Lanificio ErmenegildoZegna stands, is renowned for thesoft and crystal water that perfectlymeets the needs of this industry andof cooking! The water that passesthrough our wool mill is cleanenough even to drink, in line with mygrandfather’s vision and drive to pro-tect the environment. Accompanythis with a red wine like Nebbiolo orDolcetto, both from Piedmont andthe favorites of my oldest brother,Gildo.Prep Time: 20 minutesCook Time: 20 minutes

Risotto al tartufo d’Alba Ingredients:2 ½ cups short grained rice, for

example Carnaroli or Arborio

½ cup unsalted butter

1 tablespoon very finely minced onion

½ cup dry white wine

4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1 quart simmering beef broth

6 ounces fresh white truffles, brushed clean

Preparation:1. Sauté the onion in half the butteruntil it begins to turn golden. Thenadd the wine and cook over low heatuntil the onion is falling apart andthe wine has evaporated.2. Add the rice, mix well, and thenbegin adding broth, one ladle at atime, stirring gently all the while.3. When the rice has almost reachedthe “al dente” stage, remove the potfrom the fire and stir in the remainingbutter and the Parmigiano Reggiano,then slice half the truffles into itusing a truffle slicer.4. Heat the risotto through, transferit to a serving bowl, and slice theremaining truffles over it.

ROBERT STOCK |Robert GrahamWhen I was young, my mother andgrandmother would make VealParmigiana and spaghetti on a hero.As children, we called it “Pisghetti.”

That is still my favorite dish tothis day, and I salivate just thinkingabout my mother and grandmothercracking the eggs, adding the breadcrumbs, dipping the veal and addingfresh mozzarella cheese on top tocreate this wonderful smell of cut-lets frying in a covered pan. Mmm, Ican taste it now.

Over the years, I have done a lotof design work in Italy, which has

always brought me back to this fondchildhood memory. Because of that,I try to go back to Italy as often aspossible (at least 4 times a year).When I’m there I always have flash-backs of my mother in the kitchenmaking this amazing dish. WhetherI’m on vacation or designing fabricsin Italy, I am always searching forthat wonderful Veal Parmigiana.

Robert Stock’s PisghettiIngredients:1 cup olive oil for frying

2 veal cutlets sliced thin and pounded flat

dry bread crumbs

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup prepared tomato sauce

grated parmesan cheese

2 slices mozzarella cheese

1 hero bun

spaghetti

Preparation:1. In a large skillet, heat oil slowlyuntil just bubbly.2. Dip each cutlet into egg, then intobread crumbs to coat generously.3. Slowly place cutlets into hot oiland fry on both sides until goldenbrown.4. Remove cutlets and lay on papertowels to drain.5. Preheat oven to 350° F.6. Arrange cutlets in a baking dishand spoon tomato sauce on top tocover. Sprinkle with grated parme-san cheese and top with mozzarella.7. Bake for 15 minutes or untilcheese is melted. 8. Boil water and add spaghetti noo-dles to pot until cooked. 9. Place veal cutlets on hero bun.Add spaghetti and tomato sauce ontop. Close up the bun and enjoy!

41 FORUM

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speed

Most people think of electricity as arelatively new discovery. In fact,knowledge of electricity dates backto ancient Greece in 600 B.C., whenscientist Thales of Miletus per-formed the first known experimentswith static electricity.

But the most well-known andrespected contribution toelectric power was madeby Nikola Tesla. In addi-tion to inventing theradio (initially creditedto Guglielmo Marconi)and owning 1,200other U.S. patents,Tesla formed the basisof modern alternatingcurrent (AC).

In 1931, Tesla converteda Pierce Arrow automobileto electric power and testdrove it for a week. Afterwardhe removed the power sourceand it was never seen again.Tesla’s reasons for not developing ormarketing this amazing engine areunknown. But more than 75 yearslater, a group of Silicon Valleytechies again created a car powered

TESLA: THE REAL DEAL BEHIND THE WHEELThis electric-powered stunner was built to thrill. By David A. Rose

At Rostaconfue

44 FORUM

KIL_P44.ps - 7/6/2009 11:01 AM

solely by electricity and named itafter the man who mysteriouslymodified the Pierce Arrow all thoseyears ago: the Tesla Roadster.Presently there are just over 300 onthe road.

The Tesla Roadster was designedwith help from Lotus Cars ofEngland and production began inMarch of 2008. With an engine fromTaiwan, a chassis from Norway, car-bon fiber body panels from Franceand brake parts from Germany, thisis literally a world-class car.

Powered by a lithi-um battery pack,

the Teslaachieves 0–60

MPH in 3.9 sec-onds and has arange of 244

miles. Unlikegasoline engines

that have over ahundred moving

parts, the Tesla’sengine has just a rotor, limit-

ing the occurrence of partsbreaking or wearing down. Its

body panels are made of carbonfiber composite (similar to Formula1 racing cars), making it not onlystronger, but lighter-weight thanmost cars.

Facts and statistics are interest-ing, but the real deal is behind thewheel. I knew I’d be impressed whenI finally had the opportunity to driveone, but this car exceeded mywildest expectations.

When I met Tesla sales managerJoe Powers at the Classic CarClub, the Tesla I would drive wasplugged into a wall outlet to top offits battery charge. When it wastime to start the car, I turned thekey and…nothing. Or so I thought.In reality, the car was running, yetthere was no sound. I put it into

drive, one of only three positionson the shifter (forward, neutral andreverse). I was aware of the powerthis car has, so I took it easy leav-ing the club and proceeded upHudson Street, making my way tothe West Side Highway. As I drovealong the Hudson River, I found anopen space in the traffic, gave it abit of throttle, and whoosh! I wasflying!

Amused, I glanced at other driv-ers as they stared at this beautifulcar. People all around me tooknotice, and in my mirror I spottedthose behind me trying to decipherthe make of the car.

As I came up on the GeorgeWashington Bridge, I headed forthe upper level. I knew it was thebest approach to the PalisadesParkway, the only open roadaround with enough curves to geta sense of the car’s handling abili-ty. The road also has more than itsshare of police patrols, so I wascareful to keep my speeddown…well, at least for a while. Thevehicle handled like a dream: it isdefinitely an enthusiast’s car, withall the excitement one could want.As an amateur race car driver, Ifound that the Tesla Roadster out-performed many cars meant for therace track as well as the most exot-ic of sports cars.

The world we live in is an ever-changing one. In 1900, before theintroduction of Henry Ford’s ModelT, half of the 8,000 automobiles reg-istered in America were powered byelectric motors. It is not inconceiv-able that electricity may reclaimdominance as the most desirableway to power our vehicles. If ever acar could change how we feel aboutthe planet and our environment, theTesla Roadster is it. It’s sheer excite-ment without the guilt.

At right: The

Roadster’s state of

the art controls and

fueling portal.

45 FORUM

ClassyComboIn general, exotic cars are driven bythose with discerning taste. That said,it’s no surprise that one of the world’stop exotic car makers would team upwith a leading fashion jeans companyto promote its latest product. It makeseven more sense since both companiesare California-based.

Agave is a fashion apparel company with a definite point of view.Jeff Shafer, founder and designerof Agave, shares Tesla’s ideals—bothcompanies use advanced technologyto create an environmentally friendlyproduct with quality standards aboveand beyond the norm.

As a textile-driven designer, Shaferhas developed fabrics that perform atthe highest level, creating jeans wornby numerous Hollywood celebritiesand international music stars.

What’s more, as Tesla promotesits new cars nationally, all of theirrepresentatives will be wearing Agavejeans and tops, a classy way to marketa very classy car.

KIL_P45.ps - 7/17/2009 2:50 PM

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Diesel.ps - 7/5/2009 13:00 PM

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48 FORUM

Lasting influences of the Bauhaus design movement. By Jacquelin Carnegie

Almost everything we think of as mod-ern—from architecture to furniture topainting—came out of the Bauhausdesign movement, founded inGermany in 1919. When the Nazisclosed the school in 1933, Bauhaus dis-ciples fled and spread their concepts ofart and architecture worldwide, notablyto Chicago, Boston and Israel, whereTel Aviv’s “White City” of Bauhaus-style buildings has been named aUNESCO World Heritage site.

This year marks the 90th anniver-sary of the Bauhaus school and itscelebrated masters: architectsWalter Gropius and Mies van derRohe; painters Paul Klee andWassily Kandinsky; designer Marcel

Breuer and other artistic talentsincluding László Moholy-Nagy,Josef Albers and Lyonel Feininger.

Even if the Bauhaus style is notyour taste, you’ve got to marvel at agroup of avant-garde artists whofundamentally changed the aesthet-ics of architecture and design.

BeginningsThe winds of artistic and socialchange had been blowing throughWestern Europe since the late 1800s,but were fueled by disillusionmentafter the devastation of World War I.

In a rebellion against politicallyrepressive regimes and authoritarianviews of what constituted “art,”

avant-garde movements with similarideals began to emerge throughoutEurope—the Vienna Secession inAustria, De Stijl in Holland, Futurismin Italy and the Bauhaus in Germany.

These movements rejected priorbourgeois notions of beauty in paint-ing, architecture and furnishings.They focused on creating objects andbuildings in unembellished formsand believed that elegantly designeditems could be produced usingindustrial techniques and materialssuch as steel, concrete, chrome andglass. The artists also wanted theirwork to be socially responsible, mak-ing attractive dwellings and furnitureaffordable for the working class.

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Bauhaus 101Adhering to the dictums “Form fol-lows Function” and “Less is More,”the Bauhaus (“building school”) cur-riculum emphasized interdisciplinarylearning and industrial production.The Bauhaus teachers, referred to as“masters,” were some of the most tal-ented artists of their time. Theirmotto, “Art & Technology—a NewUnity!” required students to applyindustrial aesthetics to the design ofinterior furnishings, household itemsand residential spaces.

Study began with a mandatorypreliminary course (Vorkurs) pro-viding an introduction to theBauhaus ideas and design funda-mentals, followed by a number ofworkshops such as architecture, car-pentry, metalwork, stained glass,weaving and typography.

As the school changed directors—Walter Gropius (1919-1928), HannesMeyer (1928-1930), Mies van derRohe (1930-1933)—and locations(Weimar, Dessau, Berlin), the basicprinciples remained.

At first considered revolutionary,then repudiated by the Nazis, todaynearly every art curriculum in theworld includes foundation coursesbased on the Bauhaus model.

The BauhausLegacyThe Bauhaus had a profound influ-ence on developments in art, archi-tecture, graphic design, interiordesign and industrial design.

The products created in theBauhaus workshops made the ideaof functional design acceptable.Pieces produced by Bauhaus mas-ters have become iconic: Breuer’sWassily chair and Mies van derRohe’s Barcelona chair, Wagenfeld’sWG 24 table lamp, and Brandt’smetal teapots and pendant lamps.

Companies still producingBauhaus designs include Rosenthal(Gropius’ TAC chinaware), JenaerGlas (Wilhelm Wagenfeld glass-ware) and Tecnolumen (MarianneBrandt and Wagenfeld lamps).

After the Nazis closed the school,

Walter Gropius was appointedchairman of the Harvard School ofArchitecture. (Both Philip Johnsonand I.M. Pei were his students.)Marcel Breuer joined Gropius as aHarvard professor.

In Chicago, Ludwig Mies van derRohe headed the department ofarchitecture at the Illinois Instituteof Technology and László Moholy-Nagy founded the New Bauhaus (theInstitute of Design). Josef Albersbecame chair of the department ofdesign at Yale University.

Hence, the radical Bauhaus ideasbecame part of the curriculum atmainstream American institutionsand were passed on to the next gen-eration of artists and architects.

Bauhaus Über AlisNinety years have passed since theNazi regime dismissed the Bauhausand shut down the school.

Design and architecture are stilltaught at the Bauhaus University ofWeimar in the original school build-ing. The Bauhaus DessauFoundation, a research center forexperimental design, is in theGropius-designed building. These,along with the remaining “masters’houses,” are all UNESCO WorldHeritage sites and can be visited, ascan the Bauhaus buildings in TelAviv. Throughout 2009, there will benumerous Bauhaus-related exhibi-tions and symposiums.

This fall, the Museum of ModernArt in New York will presentBauhaus 1919–1933: Workshops forModernity, the first comprehensiveretrospective of the Bauhaus atMoMA since 1938.

But all you have to do is look outthe window at sleek skyscrapers orat your stereo components, desklamps and kitchen utensils to seethat Bauhaus concepts still prevail.

49 FORUM

‘‘These movementsrejected priorbourgeois notions of beauty in art and architecture.”

Previous Page:

Brandt’s metal

teapot and Breuer’s

Wassily chair.

This Page:

The Bauhaus school

in Dessau, Germany,

and its students.

KIL_P49.ps - 7/6/2009 11:02 AM

MADE TO ORDERSurrounded by

his management

group, Boswell

models his

custom Brioni

chef outfit in the

heart of Jackson

Square, New

Orleans.

chef style

50 FORUM

A uniform transformed from ho-hum to yum. By Jillian Sprague

“I remember the day I bought myfirst designer jacket. I’d never had avice other than cooking, but now Ihave two more: traveling and shop-ping,” says Scott Boswell, executivechef and owner of Stella, the NewOrleans hot spot serving up pro-gressive global cuisine.

Once a sloppy dresser, Boswelllearned the hard way that appear-ance matters—even in the kitchen. “Iactually lost a job in Boston becauseit was a very style-oriented place,and they just didn’t feel I was savvyenough. It opened my eyes to thefact that I needed to polish my look.”

Last year, Boswell was introducedto Brioni master tailor AngeloPetrucci, and the two decided to col-laborate on a one-of-a-kind chef’suniform that’s anything but bland.From cutting the pattern to stitch-ing the trim, everything was madeby hand. The twist cotton jacket has

a true French cuff instead of thestandard large rolled cuff.Interchangeable collar linings allowBoswell to switch between navy andwhite, and buttonholes were meticu-lously hand-stitched for maximumflexibility.

The trousers are super 180s hightwist wool from a bolt of fabric inBrioni’s private stock (previouslyused to make clothing for a sultan inthe Middle East). The first time hewalked out to a table in his customoutfit, Boswell’s customers couldn’tstop touching it. (Fortunately, theirhands were clean!)

As a chef and a businessman,Boswell’s clothing needs fluctuate.“My wife is my stylist: I just tell herhow I want to look and she putstogether the most magical ensem-bles I’ve ever seen. Of course, ithelps to have a great wardrobe fromwhich to choose.”

‘‘I’m an artist,but I paint withfood instead of

acrylics. I’malways lookingfor new colors,

flavors andtechniques.”

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end page

52 FORUM

With the economy as tough as it isthese days, I’ve been questioning theamount of money I spend on clothes.(Don’t ask…) Newly tempted to getfrugal, I must admit that I’ve recentlysuccumbed to shopping at discountstores and even sales at major depart-ment stores. I mean, who doesn’t lovea great deal?

But like those pesky credit cardstatements that keep coming in themail, you don’t know what you’re get-ting into until you examine the fineprint. Most recently, at an off-pricestore, I found a terrific-looking pair oflinen cargo shorts from an unknowndesigner that had been seriouslymarked down. I had to dig throughthe muck—leftovers from bygone sea-sons—to find them. But when I did, Icould hardly believe my eyes: theoriginal $225 price tag was marked

down to a mere $36, no doubt lessthan the store actually paid for them.

Ordinarily I would think I got a ter-rific bargain. But when the buttonsstarting falling off the first time I worethem, I began to wonder if I’d foundsuch a treasure after all. (Don’t evenask what happened after they werelaundered.) On another occasion, I gotso caught up in the excitement of thesale that I ended up buying things—alinen sweater one size too large, a pairof jeans one size too small—that I didn’treally want and would subsequentlynever wear. In the end, the thrill I gotfrom scavenger shopping turned to dis-appointment when a closet full ofmust-haves became must-get-rid-ofsshortly after purchase.

Don’t get me wrong—I still respondto a great deal and feel fortunatewhen I get one. A bargain is great ifthe item in question is well-designed,well-made and backed by a reputableretailer. But as a fashion authority bytrade, my appearance is everything.So I’m learning to be a less impulsiveand smarter shopper, to do my home-work on my favorite makers and buyonly with the certainty that I’m get-ting the best. For in the end, it’s thebeautiful designer clothing that I pullout of my closet most often, wear withthe most confidence, and that ulti-mately becomes my signature, a truereflection of my better self.

Recession or otherwise, someinvestments are worth the price.

REGRETS ONLYWhen a bargain is not a bargain. By William Kissel

KIL_P52.ps - 7/6/2009 11:05 AM

T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R

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Forum Magazine Fall 09

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