Formulating lotions

FORMULATING,LOTIONS,by,Susan,Barclay,Nichols, 1,


FORMULATING,AND,CREATING,LOTIONS,

Table,of,Contents,

INTRODUCTION)TO)FORMULATING)LOTIONS)&)CREAMS) 8,WHAT)KIND)OF)LOTION)DO)YOU)WANT)TO)MAKE?) 9,TEMPLATE)RECIPES)FOR)LOTIONS) 11,BASIC&FIRST&LOTION&RECIPE& 11,RECIPE&FOR&A&THICKER&CREAM& 11,RECIPE&FOR&A&BODY&BUTTER& 12,A&LIGHT&LOTION&RECIPE& 12,FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE& 12,BASIC&INSTRUCTIONS&FOR&MAKING&A&LOTION...& 13,GOOD&MANUFACTURING&PROCESSES& 14,

OUR)PHASES) 16,THE)HEATED)WATER)PHASE) 16,A&NOTE&ON&PERCENTAGES&AND&YOUR&WATER&PHASE& 17,

THE)HEATED)OIL)PHASE) 17,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN&WITH&ESTERS& 18,SIDE&NOTE:&HOW&MUCH&POLAWAX&SHOULD&ONE&USE?& 19,

THE)COOL)DOWN)PHASE) 20,GREAT)QUESTION!)HOW)BIG)CAN)THE)COOL)DOWN)PHASE)BE?) 21,HOW)DO)I)KNOW)WHEN)TO)INCLUDE)AN)INGREDIENT?) 21,IT’S)CHEMISTRY)TIME:)SOLUBLE)AND)DISPERSIBLE) 23,IT’S)CHEMISTRY)TIME:)MORE)FUN)WITH)SOLUBILITY!) 24,A)SIDE)NOTE:)DO)WE)ADD)THE)WATER)TO)THE)OIL)PHASE)OR)THE)OIL)TO)THE)WATER)PHASE)FOR)AWESOME)EMULSIFICATION?) 25,SIDE)NOTE:)SOME)THOUGHTS)ON)GREASINESS)IN)LOTIONS) 28,SIDE)NOTE)ON)WEIGHTS,)PERCENTAGES,)AND)VOLUME) 29,HOW&TO&CONVERT&PERCENTAGES&TO&WEIGHT&IN&A&RECIPE& 29,WHY&DO&WE&USE&WEIGHTED&MEASUREMENTS&IN&OUR&RECIPES?& 29,HOW&CAN&I&CONVERT&THOSE&PERCENTAGES&TO&WEIGHT?& 31,HOW&TO&DOUBLE,&TRIPLE,&QUADRUPLE,&AND&DODECAHEX&RECIPES?& 33,

HEATING)AND)HOLDING)OUR)PRODUCTS) 34,What&does&it&mean&to&heat&and&hold?& 34,What&do&we&heat&and&hold?& 34,How&do&I&heat&and&hold?& 34,Why&do&we&heat&and&hold?& 34,Why&do&we&need&two&separate&containers&for&heating&and&holding?& 36,What&if&you&go&over&70˚C&when&heating&&&holding?& 36,Why&are&we&so&concerned&about&burning&or&heating&our&oils?& 37,What&if&I&can't&heat&and&hold?& 38,


What’s&the&best&way&to&measure&temperature&of&our&ingredients?& 38,IT’S)CHEMISTRY)TIME!)pH)AND)OUR)PRODUCTS) 39,GREAT)QUESTION!)COMPENSATION)FOR)EVAPORATION) 40,AND)A)NOTE)ON)EVAPORATION)AND)SURFACE)AREA) 41,A)SIDE)NOTE)ON)KEEPING)YOUR)NOTES)ORGANIZED) 42,COMMENTS&FROM&READERS&ABOUT&ORGANIZING&NOTES…& 44,

MAKING)A)BASIC)LOTION) 45,BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE& 45,

GREAT)QUESTION!)IS)CHAMOMILE’S)EXPENSE)JUSTIFIED?) 48,MODIFYING)A)BASIC)LOTION:)MODIFYING)THE)WATER)PHASE) 49,SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&c&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN& 50,

GREAT)QUESTION!)USING)THICKENERS)WITH)BTMSM50) 51,MODIFYING)A)BASIC)LOTION:)MODIFYING)THE)OIL)PHASE) 52,SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&(IPM&EXTRA)& 53,

SIDE)NOTE)ON)BARRIER)INGREDIENTS…) 53,MODIFYING)A)BASIC)LOTION:)MODIFYING)YOUR)OIL)PHASE)FURTHER) 55,SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&c&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN&(increased&mango&butter&&&emulsifier)& 56,SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&c&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN&(increased&mango&butter,&emulsifier,&and&cyclomethicone)& 57,

SOME)FURTHER)IDEAS)FOR)TWEAKING)THE)70%)WATER)LOTIONS) 58,MODIFYING)OUR)LOTIONS)INTO)CREAMS) 61,RECIPE&FOR&A&THICKER&CREAM& 62,FOOT&CREAM&WITH&MENTHOL& 64,

GREAT)QUESTION!)Which)version)of)emulsifying)wax)are)you)using?) 65,THE)SOAPING)EFFECT)(insert)dramatic)chord)here)) 66,MODIFYING)CREAMS:)REDUCING)GREASINESS) 67,MODIFYING)60%)WATER)RECIPES)(LOTIONS)AND)CREAMS)) 68,HAND&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&FRACTIONATED&COCONUT,&RICE&BRAN,&AND&BEESWAX& 70,

CREATING)BODY)BUTTERS) 71,RECIPE&FOR&A&BODY&BUTTER& 72,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&COCOA&BUTTER&(greasier&feeling)& 73,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN&(less&greasy&feeling)& 74,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN,&DIMETHICONE,&AND&HONEYQUAT&(less&greasy&version)& 75,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN,&DIMETHICONE,&AND&HONEYQUAT&WITH&A&LARGER&OIL&PHASE&(less&greasy&version)& 76,

MODIFYING)A)BODY)BUTTER)TO)BECOME)A)FOOT)CREAM) 76,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&FOR&REALLY&TRASHED&FEET!& 79,

THICKENING)YOUR)PRODUCTS) 80,SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL& 80,


HAND&LOTION&WITH&CETEARYL&ETHYLHEXANOATE&&&COCOA&BUTTER& 81,AN)EXAMPLE)OF)MODIFYING)YOUR)LOTION)BY)MODIFYING)THE)THICKENER) 82,GREAT)QUESTION!)How)can)you)thin)out)a)thick)recipe?) 83,MAKING)SMALL)CHANGES)IN)THE)WATER)AND)COOL)DOWN)PHASES) 84,SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&(modified&to&include&some&small&changes)& 85,

AN)ASIDE)ON)ADDING)POWDERED)EXTRACTS)TO)YOUR)PRODUCT) 86,GREAT)QUESTION!)HOW)MUCH)IS)TOO)MUCH)WHEN)IT)COMES)TO)EXTRACTS)AND)FRAGRANCE?) 86,MAKING)SMALL)CHANGES)IN)THE)OIL)PHASE)WITHOUT)INCREASING)THE)EMULSIFIERS) 87,NOT&SO&MUCH&A&SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&ANY&MORE&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&(modified&to&include&some&small&oil&phase&changes)& 88,

A)FEW)SMALL)CHANGES)TO)CONSIDER) 89,MAKING)MORE)CHANGES)TO)YOUR)LOTION)(general)) 90,SILICONE)ALTERNATIVES) 94,GREAT)QUESTION!)Can)we)use)oils)from)the)grocery)store)in)our)products?) 95,FORMULATING)LIGHT)LOTIONS) 97,LIGHT&LOTION&WITH&C12c15&ALKYL&BENZOATE& 99,

TWEAKING)THE)LIGHT)LOTION) 100,TWEAKING)THE)LIGHT)LOTION)TO)BECOME)A)BODY)MILK) 102,SPRAYABLE&BODY&MILK&WITH&RICE&BRAN&OIL& 103,

LEARNING)TO)FORMULATE)FACIAL)MOISTURIZERS) 104,BASIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE& 105,BASIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&FOR&NORMAL&SKIN& 107,

AN)ASIDE:)SOME)THOUGHTS)ON)COSMECEUTICALS) 108,FORMULATING)DRIER)FEELING)LOTIONS) 110,BASIC&DRY&FEELING&LOTION&(80%&water)& 111,DRIER&FEELING&LOTION&WITH&ASTRINGENT&OILS&AND&BTMSc50& 112,

FORMULATING)A)DRIER)FEELING)MOISTURIZER)OR)AFTER)SHAVE)LOTION)WITH)OILS) 112,BASIC&CATIONIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE& 113,BASIC&MOISTURIZING&AFTER&SHAVE&RECIPE&WITH&OILS& 114,

FORMULATING)A)DRIER)FEELING)MOISTURIZER)OR)AFTER)SHAVE)WITH)ESTERS) 115,LIGHTcFEELING,&LESS&GREASY&FEELING&LOTION&WITH&ESTERS& 116,

CREATING)LOTIONS)WITH)MINIMALLY)PROCESSED)INGREDIENTS) 117,BOTANICAL&LOTION&c&92%&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&(oilier&version)& 119,

GREAT)QUESTION:)WHY)CAN’T)WE)USE)TEA)IN)OUR)PRODUCTS?) 120,ECOCERT)PRESERVATIVES:)Introduction) 121,ECOCERT)PRESERVATIVES:)Advanced)Aloe)Leuicdal) 122,ECOCERT)PRESERVATIVES:)Liquid)Leucidal) 123,ECOCERT)PRESERVATIVES:)NataPres) 124,


COMMENT&FROM&A&READER&ABOUT&THIS&PRESERVATIVE& 126,CREATING)A)BODY)BUTTER)WITH)MINIMALLY)PROCESSED)INGREDIENTS) 126,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS& 128,

ESTERS:)THE)CHEMISTRY)OF)ESTERS!) 130,ESTERS:)SPREADABILITY,)TACKINESS,)AND)GREASINESS!) 133,Definition&of&surface&tension:& 134,

ESTERS:)PEG)or)polyethylene)glycol)esters) 135,ESTERS:)PPG)or)polypropylene)glycol)esters) 137,ESTERS:)C12M15)alkyl)benzoate) 138,ESTERS:)Cetearyl)ethylhexanoate) 139,ESTERS:)Using)C12M15)alkyl)benzoate)and)cetearyl)ethylhexanoate)in)facial)moisturizers) 141,BASIC&CATIONIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE& 141,

ESTERS:)Isopropyl)palmitate) 142,ESTERS:)Formulating)with)IPM)and)IPP) 143,BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&WITH&SHEA&BUTTER&AND&ESTERS& 144,

ESTERS:)Ethylhexyl)palmitate) 145,ESTERS:)Using)ethylhexyl)palmitate)in)your)creations!) 146,MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN& 146,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN&WITH&ESTERS& 147,

ESTERS:)Cetyl)esters) 148,HAND&LOTION&RECIPE&MODIFIED&TO&BE&A&BODY&LOTION&FOR&SILLY&WOMEN&WHO&REFUSE&TO&COVER&UP&IN&THE&WINTER&WITH&CETYL&ESTERS& 149,

ESTERS:)Super)Sterol)esters) 150,ESTERS:)Formulating)with)Super)Sterol) 151,FACIAL&SERUM&FOR&DRY&SKIN&USING&SUPER&STEROL& 151,BODY&OIL&SPRAY&WITH&ESTERS& 152,

ESTERS:)USING)ESTERS)IN)HAND)LOTIONS) 152,BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE&WITH&ESTERS& 153,HAND&LOTION&WITH&ESTERS,&GREEN&TEA&&&CHAMOMILE& 154,

ESTERS:)Tweaking)a)hand)lotion)into)a)body)lotion) 156,BODY&LOTION&WITH&GREEN&TEA,&CHAMOMILE,&AND&ESTERS& 156,

ESTERS:)PEGM7)olivate)(or)olive)oil)PEGM7)esters)) 157,ESTERS:)Crodamol)STS)(or)PPGM3)benzyl)ether)myristate)) 158,An&aside&on&the&refractive&index...& 160,

ESTERS:)DiMPPGM2)myethM10)adipate)(or)Cromollient)SCE)) 160,ESTERS:)Crodamol)PMP)or)PPGM2)myristyl)ether)propionate) 161,ESTERS:)POLYSORBATES) 163,POLYSORBATE&20& 164,POLYSORBATE&80& 164,


SUBSTITUTIONS:)MODIFYING)A)LOTION)WITH)INGREDIENTS)YOU)HAVE) 166,TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION& 166,MODIFIED&TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION&#1& 168,MODIFIED&TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION&#2& 169,

SUBTITUTIONS:)MORE)IDEAS)FOR)TWEAKING)A)LOTION)(BODY)BUTTER)) 170,ELABORATE&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE& 170,

SUBSTITUTIONS:)FORMULATING)ON)A)BUDGET) 173,EXPENSIVE&LOTION&RECIPE& 173,MODIFIED&EXPENSIVE&LOTION&RECIPE& 174,

SUBSTITUTIONS:)FORMULATING)ON)A)BUDGET)–)CHOOSING)YOUR)OILS) 175,SUBSTITUTIONS:)FORMULATING)ON)A)BUDGET)–)SUBSTITUTING)FOR)ESTERS) 177,AN)ASIDE:)COMPARING)DOLLAR)STORE)AND)FANCIER)LOTIONS) 178,AN)ASIDE:)HOW)DO)WE)DETERMINE)THE)SHELF)LIVES)OF)OUR)PRODUCTS?) 183,POSSIBLE&DUPLICATION&OF&NEUTROGENA'S&BODY&OIL& 184,HAND&LOTION&WITH&CETEARYL&ETHYLHEXANOATE&&&COCOA&BUTTER& 185,

INTRODUCTION)TO)THE)HLB)SYSTEM) 188,A&QUICK&ASIDE&ON&EMULSIFICATION& 188,THEORY&BEHIND&THE&HLB&SYSTEM& 188,HOW&DO&WE&USE&THE&HLB&SYSTEM&TO&CREATE&AN&EMULSIFIER?& 189,

A)SIDE)NOTE:)WHERE)DO)I)GET)THE)INFORMATION)ON)HLB)VALUES?) 190,HLB)SYSTEM:)A)DEMONSTRATION)(part)1)) 190,The&steps&to&finding&out&the&HLB&value&of&your&ingredients.& 191,The&steps&to&finding&out&the&HLB&value&of&your&emulsifiers.& 191,STARTING&OUT&RECIPE&FOR&DUPLICATING&LUSH'S&AFTERLIFE& 191,CHOOSE&YOUR&EMULSIFIERS& 193,GLYCOL&DISTEARATE&AND&CETEARETHc20& 194,GLYCERYL&STEARATE&AND&OLETHc10& 194,STARTING&OUT&RECIPE&FOR&DUPLICATING&LUSH'S&AFTERLIFE&WITH&HLB&EMULSIFIERS& 195,HEATED&WATER&PHASE& 195,

HLB)SYSTEM:)A)DEMONSTRATION)WITH)OUR)BASIC)LOTION)RECIPE) 196,BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE&MODIFIED&USING&THE&HLB&SYSTEM& 200,

HLB)SYSTEM:)A)DEMONSTRATION)WITH)A)MORE)COMPLICATED)LOTION)RECIPE) 200,SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL& 200,SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&MODIFIED&TO&USE&HLB&EMULSIFIERS& 202,

HLB)SYSTEM:)A)DEMONSTRATION)WITH)OUR)BASIC)BODY)BUTTER)RECIPE) 203,OUR&MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE& 203,

AN)ASIDE)ON)HLB)VALUES)OF)SILICONES) 205,THE)HLB)SYSTEM:)ALTERING)THE)OIL)PHASE) 208,CHANGING&ONE&OIL& 209,CHANGING&EVERYTHING!& 210,

HLB)SYSTEM:)TRY)IT)FOR)YOURSELF!) 210,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS& 210,


AN)ASIDE:)DON’T)FEAR)THE)MATH!) 212,HOW)DID)YOU)DO)ON)WORKING)IT)OUT?)THE)ANSWERS) 212,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&WITH&THE&HLB&FIGURED&OUT!& 214,

THE)HLB)SYSTEM:)LET’S)GET)SLIGHTLY)MORE)COMPLICATED) 215,BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&NOTcSO&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&USING&HLB&EMULSIFIERS& 218,

AN)ASIDE:)WHAT)IS)THE)HLB)SYSTEM)FOR)OUR)ALLMINMONE)EMULSIFIERS?) 219,AN)ASIDE:)DO)WE)EVER)USE)MORE)THAN)TWO)EMULSIFIERS)IN)AN)HLB)SYSTEM?) 219,MORE)ASIDES)ON)THE)HLB)SYSTEM) 219,THE)HLB)SYSTEM:)USING)DIFFERENT)EMULSIFIERS)AND)A)FORMULA) 222,A)LITTLE)INFORMATION)ON)MY)YOUTH)GROUPS)AND)YOUR)CONTRIBUTIONS) 226,ABOUT)THE)AUTHOR) 227,,

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INTRODUCTION,TO,FORMULATING,LOTIONS,&,CREAMS,Welcome'to'this'e,book'based'on'the'posts'I’ve'written'on'Point'of'Interest'(http://swiftmonkey.blogspot.com','but'you'already'knew'that!)'on'learning'to'formulate'lotions'and'creams.'This'e,book'is'intended'to'be'part'two'of'the'lotion'making'e,books'–'part'one'being'Lotionmaking'101'–'and'is'intended'for'those'of'you'interested'in'learning'to'formulate'your'products'from'scratch.'''A'huge'part'of'formulating'is'about'your'personal'preferences'and'the'ingredients'you'like.'There'really'only'so'many'variations'on'a'lotion'one'can'make,'and'the'real'differences'come'not'from'the'size'of'your'oil'or'water'phases,'but'from'the'ingredients'you'choose!'Be'bold!'Choose'new'and'different'things.'Figure'out'what'you'like!'And'listen'to'the'feedback'from'your'friends,'family,'and'others'lucky'enough'to'test'your'products'for'you.'We'can'come'up'with'amazing'oil'combinations'that'make'our'skin'sing,'and'we'can'come'up'with'hideous'combinations'that'make'us'cringe,'but'remember'that'every'time'we'make'a'lotion,'we'learn'something,'so'it’s'never'a'waste'of'your'time'or'energy!'''As'per'your'suggestions,'you'will'find'some'of'the'comments'you’d'find'on'the'blog'because'you,'my'wonderful'readers,'have'great'ideas'and'thoughts'that'I'think'need'to'be'shared.'You'will'find'some'asides'on'chemistry'and'helpful'hints.'You'won’t'find'a'lot'on'ingredients'in'this'book,'also'per'your'suggestions.'If'you'wish'to'find'the'information'on'carrier'oils,'butters,'and'so'on,'may'I'suggest'taking'a'look'at'the'Back'to'Basics'(http://www.lotioncrafter.com/back,to,basics,e,book.html?&cat=281&xid=a7e279be2ebceed0706be8b0ff62cc4f)'or'Lotion'Making'101''(http://www.lotioncrafter.com/lotion,making,101,e,book.html?&cat=294&xid=a7e279be2ebceed0706be8b0ff62cc4f)'e,books,'which'contain'that'information.'I'am'thinking'of'putting'together'an'ingredient'encyclopedia'in'the'near'future,'but'this'is'not'that'book.'''I'hope'you'enjoy'this'book'and'I'look'forward'to'hearing'from'you.'Questions,'happy'thoughts,'frustrations,'pictures,'successes'and'failures'–'share'them'all'by'writing'to'me'at'[email protected]!''Happy'formulating!',''


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WHAT,KIND,OF,LOTION,DO,YOU,WANT,TO,MAKE?,The'first'thing'I'ask'myself'when'I'm'formulating'a'product'is'what'exactly'do'I'want'to'make?'What'type'of'lotion,'cream,'or'butter'do'I'want'right'now,'for'what'body'part,'and'for'what'reason?'In'short,'what's'my'goal'for'this'product?'Asking'yourself'this'question'is'the'first'step'to'formulating.'

'I'classify'my'lotions'into'four'types:'Creams,or,body,butters'have'about'60%'water,'hand,or,body,lotions'have'about'70%'water,'light,lotions'are'about'80%'water,'and'sprayable,products,or,body,milks'have'about'90%'water.'(Facial'moisturizers'fall'into'the'80%'to'90%'water'range'depending'upon'the'skin'type.)'I'll'choose'one'of'these'basic'recipes'as'my'starting'point'for'formulating'the'type'of'lotion'I'want'today.''Once'you've'chosen'your'type'of'lotion,'consider'the'skin'feel'of'the'product'to'help'you'choose'your'ingredients.''For'something'like'a'facial'moisturizer,'I'want'something'that'is'non,greasy,'something'that'doesn't'feel'greasy'going'on'and'doesn't'leave'a'shine'on'my'face,'and'I'want'something'glidy'that'I'don't'have'to'rub'in'very'much.''For'a'foot'cream,'I'want'to'use'the'60%'water'recipe'and'include'occlusive'and'humectants'galore.'I'm'not'worried'about'the'greasiness'factor'as'I'm'going'to'be'wearing'socks'afterwards,'and'I'want'some'really'moisturizing'ingredients'to'help'with'really'dry'skin.''For'a'hand'lotion,'I'want'to'use'my'70%'water'recipe'and'create'a'drier'feeling'lotion'with'lots'of'glide'that'I'don't'have'to'work'to'rub'into'my'skin,'but'I'want'something'occlusive'to'reduce'transepidermal'water'loss'and'to'prevent'the'outside'world'from'making'my'hands'feel'drier'or'more'chapped.''These%are%my%preferences,%so%part%of%learning%to%formulate%is%to%figure%out%what%you%like%and%how%to%make%it!%


'Then'consider'if'you'have'any'other'goals','for'instance,'a'lotion'for'really'dry'skin,'a'lotion'to'prevent'weather'chapping,'a'lotion'to'help'with'itchiness','and'think'about'which'ingredients'you'can'include'for'that'purpose.'

'If'I'wanted'to'create'a'barrier'cream'for'the'winter'months,'I'd'immediately'turn'to'the'three'approved'barrier'ingredients','cocoa'butter,'dimethicone,'and'allantoin.'If'I'wanted'to'make'a'less'greasy'product,'cocoa'butter'probably'isn't'my'first'choice'as'it'can'feel'greasy,'so'I'd'consider'dimethicone'and'allantoin'next.'Dimethicone'can'make'a'lotion'feel'a'bit'greasier,'so'if'I'want'to'use'this,'I'd'choose'my'oils'wisely.'If'I'definitely'don't'want'shine'or'extra'

greasiness'in'a'product,'then'allantoin'at'0.5%'in'the'heated'water'phase'would'be'my'best'choice.''If'I'wanted'to'create'a'lotion'for'really'dry'skin,'I'know'humectants'are'a'big'part'of'formulating'for'this'skin'type,'so'I'll'want'to'load'up'on'things'like'glycerin'or'sodium'lactate,'and'I'll'want'to'include'some'other'moisturizers'like'silk'protein,'Phytokeratin,'panthenol,'and'cationic'polymers.'I'll'want'to'choose'oils'that'reduce'transepidermal'water'loss'and'increase'my'occlusive'ingredients.''If'I'wanted'to'create'a'lotion'for'camping'and'summer'fun,'I'll'want'something'light'and'non,greasy'(I'don't'want'pine'needles'all'over'me!).'I'll'want'to'reduce'the'ingredients'that'could'make'me'sun'sensitive','sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'at'over'3%,'for'instance,'or'citrus'based'essential'oils','and'I'll'want'to'increase'my'moisturizing'through'non,oil'ingredients.'So'I'll'want'my'humectants'and'film'formers'to'increase'moisturization'without'using'more'oils'or'butters.'I'might'even'consider'using'a'sprayable'lotion'to'reduce'the'amount'of'rubbing'in'I'might'have'to'do.''So'ask'yourself'these'questions'when'you're'planning'to'make'a'lotion,y'type'product...'

What'kind'of'product'do'I'want'to'make?'Is'it'a'moisturizer,'body'milk,'lotion,'cream,'or'butter?'

For'which'body'part'is'this'intended?'If'you're'making'facial'products,'you'might'want'to'consider'the'comedogenicity'of'the'ingredients.''

What'kind'of'skin'feel'do'I'want?'Do'I'want'something'light,'heavy,'dry,'or'greasy?'


Do'I'have'a'specific'outcome'in'mind','for'instance,'treating'really'dry'skin'or'preventing'further'damage'by'weather','and'if'so,'which'ingredients'will'help'with'that'(both'water'and'oil'based)?'

Am'I'considering'this'for'a'specific'skin'type?'

TEMPLATE,RECIPES,FOR,LOTIONS,I'created'these'recipes'to'be'my'starting'point'for'any'lotion'I'might'want'to'make.'These'can'be'made'as'is,'but'it’s'far'more'fun'to'tweak'them'to'include'different'oils,'interesting'new'emollients,'novel'humectants,'and'other'ingredients'by'adding'them'into'the'proper'phase'–'heated'water,'heated'oil,'or'cool'down'phases.'We’ll'be'using'these'recipes'quite'a'lot'throughout'this'e,book,'so'keep'this'page'bookmarked!''

BASIC&FIRST&LOTION&RECIPE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'69%'water''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'oil'(sunflower,'soy'bean,'rice'bran,'or'olive'oil)'5%'shea'or'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'emulsifier'(BTMS'or'Polawax)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''

RECIPE&FOR&A&THICKER&CREAM&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'60%'water'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'oils','olive'and'rice'bran'are'great'choices'here'(we'want'heavier'oils)'10%'butters','I'd'choose'shea'and/or'mango'here'as'they'are'both'very'emollient'7%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid''


COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''

RECIPE&FOR&A&BODY&BUTTER&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'60%'water'3%'humectant'of'choice''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'oils'(4%'light,'4%'medium,'2%'heavy,'or'just'10%'of'the'oil'of'your'choice)'15%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'7%'emulsifier*'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'

A&LIGHT&LOTION&RECIPE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'78%'water'2%'humectant''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'oils'2%'cetyl'alcohol'or'stearic'acid'4%'emulsifier'''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein''

FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'


80%'water'2%'humectant'of'choice'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'(optional)''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'8%'oils'4%'emulsifier','Polawax,'e,wax'or'BTMS'2%'thickener','cetyl'alcohol'for'the'glide''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'1%'actives'and'extracts'0.5%'chamomile'extract'(for'soothing)'0.5%'honeysuckle'extract'(for'acne)'**If'you'are'using'oils'with'less'than'a'9'month'shelf'life,'please'add'1%'Vitamin'E'to'your'cool'down'phase!**''

BASIC&INSTRUCTIONS&FOR&MAKING&A&LOTION...&1.'Weigh'your'water'phase'into'a'heat'proof'container'and'put'into'a'double'boiler.''2.'Weigh'your'oil'phase'into'a'heat'proof'container'and'put'into'a'double'boiler.''3.'Heat'both'phases'to'70˚C'and'hold'for'20'minutes.'This'is'to'kill'any'nasties'that'might'be'in'any'of'our'ingredients,'as'well'ensuring'both'phases'are'the'same'temperature'when'we'mix'them'together.'(This'is'part'of'the'emulsification'process','the'heating'part'of'emulsification.)'

'4.'When'both'phases'reach'70˚C,'pour'the'water'phase'into'the'oil'phase'and'mix'very'well'with'a'stick'blender'or'hand'mixer'(or'Kitchenaid'if'you're'a'lucky'person!).'Mix'periodically'as'the'temperature'drops.'(Why'do'we'add'the'water'to'the'oil'phase?'It's'called'phase'inversion,'and'you'can'find'a'post'on'this'topic'here...)''


5.'When'you'reach'45˚C,'add'your'cool'down'ingredients'and'mix'very'well.''6.'Allow'the'lotion'to'come'to'room'temperature'before'bottling.'If'you'are'using'jars,'just'glop'in'what'you'have'made.'If'it's'a'lighter'lotion,'you'could'probably'pour'it'into'the'bottle'with'a'funnel.'For'thicker'lotions,'I'have'found'using'a'piping'bag'(disposable,'from'the'cake'or'chocolate'decorating'store)'is'the'easiest'way'to'get'things'into'bags.''Here'are'some'bottling'tips!'And'some'tips'on'how'to'choose'the'best'bottle'for'your'product.''7.'Always'label'your'bottle'with'the'ingredients'and'date'so'you'can'replicate'it'or'throw'it'away'when'the'shelf'life'expires.''Here's'a'post'with'another'argument'for'heating'and'holding','critical'micelle'concentration,'phase'inversion,'and'solubility'all'lead'to'increased'emulsion'stability.''And'here's'a'post'on'why'we'heat'and'hold'our'phases'separately.''And'here's'a'post'on'epic'lotion'failures'and'why'that'happens!''

GOOD&MANUFACTURING&PROCESSES&Here'are'a'few'things'to'keep'in'mind.'We'can'never'be'truly'sterile'in'the'home'environment,'but'we're'going'to'try'our'best!''Heat'and'hold'your'ingredients'in'the'water'and'oil'phases'for'20'minutes'at'70˚C.'This'not'only'ensures'the'two'phases'are'at'the'right'temperature'for'emulsification,'but'the'heat'will'destroy'icky'things'in'the'water.''Use'distilled'water.'Although'tap'water'is'fine'for'drinking,'it'might'contain'metals'and'other'things'that'might'lead'to'

contamination'of'your'products.'It's'not'expensive','$2.00'for'4'litres'or'so','and'it's'easy'to'store'in'your'workshop.''Don't'worry'about'sterilizing'your'bottles.'If'they'were'stored'properly'and'are'from'a'reputable'supplier,'they'are'already'clean.'And'don't're,use'bottles'or'jars.'I'know'this'


seems'wasteful,'but'you'can'never'get'them'truly'clean.'And'the'rancid'smell'of'oil'ruins'the'next'product'in'the'jar!''Choose'your'containers'well.'Some'bottles'can't'handle'high'amounts'of'fragrance'oil,'for'instance,'or'others'will'suck'the'fragrance'out!''Use'only'body'safe'fragrance'oils'and'ingredients.'A'candle'oil'might'smell'nice,'but'if'it's'not'approved'for'body'use,'don't'even'think'about'it!''If'you'are'planning'to'sell'your'products,'get'them'challenge'tested'at'a'lab.'Yes,'this'costs'money,'but'it's'better'than'sending'out'contaminated'products.'And'don't'make'claims'about'your'products.'And'watch'your'language!'I'know'use'the'word'"soothe"'for'some'ingredients,'but'you'can't'make'that'claim'on'a'body'wash'or'lotion'you'might'sell.'


OUR,PHASES,We'divide'our'lotion'making'process'into'three'phases'–'the'heated'water'phase,'the'heated'oil'phase,'and'the'cool'down'phase.'

THE,HEATED,WATER,PHASE,The'heated'water'phase'consists'of'water'soluble'ingredients'that'can'safely'be'heated'and'held'at'70˚C'for'20'minutes.'This'includes'water,'hydrosols,'aloe'vera,'hydrolyzed'proteins,'humectants,'and'some'cationic'polymers.'The'amount'of'water'you'include'in'lotion'is'key'to'the'thickness'of'the'final'product.'More'water'equals'a'thinner'lotion;'less'water'equals'a'thicker'lotion'(for'the'most'part).''

'I'consider'a'basic'lotion'to'contain'about'70%'water,'but'we'don't'have'to'use'all'water'for'that'phase.'We'can'include'liquidy'water'soluble'ingredients'like'aloe'vera'and'hydrosols,'or'we'could'include'water'soluble'powdered'ingredients'like'powdered'forms'of'panthenol'or'sodium'lactate'or'allantoin.'''So,how,to,figure,out,when,to,include,your,water,soluble,ingredients?'If'your'ingredient'can'tolerate'heat,'then'add'it'to'the'heated'water'phase.'If'your'ingredient'won't'tolerate'heat,'then'add'it'to'the'cool'down'phase.'Most'of'our'humectants','glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA','tolerate'heat,'but'some'don't,'so'check'before'using.'Something'like'panthenol'doesn't'tolerate'heat'well,'so'add'that'to'the'cool'down'phase.'Allantoin'can'be'used'in'either'phase,'so'choose'the'method'you'find'produces'the'fewest'shards.'Some'of'our'cationic'polymers','like'polyquat'44,'polyquat'7,'and'polyquat'10','like'the'heat,'whereas'honeyquat'will'give'off'an'unpleasant'scent'when'heated.'''As'you'work'through'this'e,book,'keep'in'mind'that'we're'working'with'percentages'and'every'recipe'should'total'100%'in'the'end.'So'when'I'm'talking'about'increasing'the'oil'phase,'I'm'talking'about'increasing'the'percentage'the'oil'phase'takes'up'in'a'recipe.'When'I'm'talking'about'decreasing'the'water'phase,'I'm'talking'about'the'percentage'the'water'phase'takes'up'in'a'recipe.'For'a'recipe'like'my'sample'one,'I'm'using'a'69.5%'water'phase'and'a'29%'oil'phase'with'1.5%'in'the'cool'down'phase'for'a'total'of'100%.'If'I'increase'one'phase,'I'have'to'decrease'the'others'to'maintain'that'100%.''


'Finally,'you'll'notice'that'when'I'increase'my'oil'phase'I'tend'to'decrease'the'water'phase.'This'is'so'I'can'compensate'for'the'increase'in'oil'soluble'ingredients'and'emulsifiers'so'the'lotion'is'stable.'So'the'water'phase'is'more'variable'than'the'oil'phase.'But'remember'that'if'you'decrease'your'water'phase,'you'will'make'a'thicker'product.''

A&NOTE&ON&PERCENTAGES&AND&YOUR&WATER&PHASE&To'clarify,'when'you're'creating'any'product,'think'in'percentages,'not'grams'or'volume.'When'making'any'product,'you'll'want'the'total'ingredient'list'to'come'to'100%'(mine'vary'because'I'm'thinking'about'other'preservatives'you'might'want'to'use,'but'100%'is'the'ideal).'If'you'look'at'the'recipes'on'my'blog'or'in'the'e,books,'any'recipe'from'our'suppliers,'or'any'recipe'on'a'forum,'it'should'total'100%.'This'is'because'doing'it'in'percentages'makes'it'easier'to'see'if'we'have'our'ingredients'in'the'right'amounts,'switch'ingredients'for'others,'and'change'our'phase'amounts.'Plus'most'of'our'ingredients'come'with'the'suggestion'to'use'them'at'some%'to'another%,'so'there's'no'down'side'to'thinking'in'percentages.''So'when'I'm'talking'about'increasing'the'oil'phase'or'decreasing'the'water'phase,'I'm'talking'about'the'percentages'those'phases'make'up'in'the'lotion.'If'we'have'a'69.5%'water'phase'and'a'29%'oil'phase,'but'want'to'increase'the'oil'amount'to'40%,'we'll'have'to'decrease'our'water'phase'by'11%'to'keep'that'100%'total'at'the'end.''Percentages'make'life'easier'when'you're'formulating.'Let's'say'you'have'a'recipe'and'want'250'grams'of'it.'Then'multiply'all'the'numbers'by'2.5'to'get'your'new'amounts.'If'you'want'to'make'a'1000'gram'batch'of'lotion,'then'multiply'all'the'numbers'by'10.'If'you'want'a'50'gram'batch,'divide'all'the'numbers'in'half'(not'so'useful'for'lotions,'but'great'for'lip'balms'or'lotion'bars).''

THE,HEATED,OIL,PHASE,The'oil'phase'consists'of'oil'soluble'ingredients'that'can'be'safely'heated'and'held'at'70˚C'for'20'minutes.'This'is'where'you'll'find'our'emollients,'emulsifiers,'thickeners,'and'anything'that'is'oil'soluble'and'can'tolerate'heat.''


The'oil'phase'is'generally'where'most'of'the'skin'feel'of'our'products'comes'from'as'the'oils,'butters,'emulsifiers,'and'thickeners'you'choose'will'determine'the'thickness'of'the'product'as'well'as'the'greasiness'level'of'the'lotion.''One'of'the'main'questions'to'ask'about'the'oil'phase'is'how'much'emulsifier'to'use.'The'general'rule'of'thumb'for'Polawax'is'to'use'25%'or'1/4'of'the'oil'phase.'(See'below'for'more'information!)'I'tend'to'use'a'little'less'BTMS,50'than'I'would'Polawax'because'it'really'thickens'up'lotions'well'(maybe'20%'of'the'oil'phase,'but'it'depends'on'how'I'feel'that'day).'Each'emulsifier'has'different'formulating'suggestions,'so'if'you're'using'e,wax,'you'might'want'to'ask'your'supplier'for'their'suggestions.'(I'know'Voyageur'Soap'&'Candle'suggests'using'1%'more'e,wax'than'you'would'with'Polawax'for'stability.)'And'if'you're'making'your'own'emulsifier'with'the'HLB'system,'you’ll'generally'start'with'4%'or'so'and'work'your'way'up'or'down.'(There’s'lots'more'to'know'about'the'HLB'system'–'look'for'it'in'the'last'section'of'this'e,book!)'''When'determining'the'oil'phase,'you'have'to'take'into'consideration'all'oil'soluble'ingredients'in'both'the'heated'oil'phase'and'the'cool'down'phase.'When'I'say'everything,'I'do'mean'everything.'If'you're'adding'something'like'2%'IPM'or'2%'cetyl'alcohol,'include'when'you're'determining'the'oil'phase.'Don't'forget'your'silicones','they'should'be'included'in'the'oil'phase.'Everything'that'needs'emulsifying'into'the'water'counts'as'the'oil'phase.''If'we'take'a'recipe'like'this'one,'here's'what'I'would'consider'to'be'part'of'the'oil'phase.'(Highlighted'in'green.)''

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN&WITH&ESTERS&WATER'PHASE'30%'aloe'vera'liquid'or'water'15.5%'hydrosol'of'choice'(chamomile'or'lavender'are'very'nice!)'2%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'or'honeyquat'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'proteins'of'choice'(I'like'oat'protein)'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'22%'oils','10%'soy'bean'oil,'12%'ethylhexyl'palmitate'5%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)' '


8.5%'emulsifier'(e,wax,'Polawax,'or'BTMS)'3%'cetyl'alcohol'or'cetyl'esters'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'extract'of'choice'(chamomile)'0.5%'extract'of'choice'(wheat'grass)'2%'cyclomethicone'0.5%'preservative'(liquid'Germall'Plus)'1%'Vitamin'E'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'(I'm'using'Clementine'Cupcake'from'Brambleberry!)''Our'oil'phase'consists'of'the'oils,'butter,'fatty'alcohol'or'fatty'acid'(like'cetyl'alcohol'or'stearic'acid),'esters,'and'silicones.'It'totals'34%,'which'means'I'want'to'use'8.5%'Polawax.'You'might'want'to'consider'adding'the'Vitamin'E'and'fragrance/essential'oil'into'that'phase,'but'I've'found'that'it'doesn't'make'a'difference'to'the'stability.'''If'you'want'to'substitute'oils'for'other'oils'or'butters'for'other'butters'or'oils'for'esters'and'silicones'(or'any'variation'thereon),'go'ahead.'If'you're'using'an'emulsification'system'like'Polawax,'e,wax,'or'BTMS,50,'the'oils'are'interchangeable'(but'if'you're'using'the'HLB'system,'you'know'you'have'to're,calculate!).'If'you'want'to'increase'your'oil'phase,'remember'to'increase'the'amount'of'your'emulsifier'and'to'reduce'the'amount'of'the'water'phase.'If'you'add'4%'more'oils,'add'1%'more'emulsifier,'and'remove'5%'total'from'the'water'amount.'If'you'add'8%'more'oils,'add'2%'emulsifier,'and'remove'10%'total'from'the'water'amount.'And'so'on.'''Finally,'for'your'product'to'behave'as'an'oil,in,water'lotion'(meaning'there's'more'water'than'oil),'you'll'want'to'keep'the'oil'phase'at'49%'or'below.'We'need'different'emulsifiers'for'water,in,oil'lotions'(meaning'there's'more'oil'than'water,'like'cold'creams),'and'that's'a'different'creature'all'together!''

SIDE&NOTE:&HOW&MUCH&POLAWAX&SHOULD&ONE&USE?&&If'you'are'using'Polawax,'the'general'rule'of'thumb'is'to'use'25%'of'the'oil'phase.'So'if'you'have'20%'oil,'you'd'use'5%'Polawax.'If'you'have'30%'oil,'you'd'use'7.5%'Polawax.'And'so'on.'


Where'does'the'25%'of'the'oil'phase'rule'come'from,'and'can'I'provide'a'link?'I'm'not'sure,'and'no.'I'remember'reading'the'"25%'of'the'oil'phase"'on'the'Dish'and'I'remember'looking'for'it'and'finding'confirmation'from'a'reliable'source,'but'I'can't'find'a'link'anywhere'(I've'been'searching'my'computer'and'the''net'for'over'an'hour','I'm'done!)'In'their'own'literature,'Croda'comments'about'lotions'made'with'Polawax'being'stable'at'"as'low'as'5%,'although'10%'might'provide'superior'stability".'

In'their'sample'recipe'in'the'Polawax'brochure,'Croda'suggests'you'use'as'high'as'10%'Polawax'in'an'80%'water,'10%'oil'lotion'and'10%'in'a'40%'water,'50%'oil'creation.'But'they'suggest'15%'for'a'75%'water,'15%'paraffin'wax'creation.'If'you'look'through'the'Croda'formulations'for'Polawax,'at'times'they'follow'the'25%'rule,'other'times'they'throw'it'out'the'window.'One'of'the'recipes'calls'for'12%'Polawax!'EEK!'Most'of'our'suppliers'will'state'we'should'use'2%'to'3%'to'10%'in'our'creations,'but'no'one'ever'says'"use'25%'of'the'oil'phase".'

Having'said'all'of'this,'it's'a'good'rule.'When'following'the'25%'(or'higher)'rule,'I've'never'had'a'lotion'fail'on'me.'(I'have'had'lotions'fail'with'other'emulsifiers,'and'I'had'one'lotion'fail'because'I'didn't'get'the'water'phase'to'the'correct'temperature,'but'otherwise'no'lotion'fails'in'my'entire'lotion'making'career!)'You'can'always'go'higher'with'emulsifiers,'but'never'ever'go'lower'(unless'you're'doing'some'experimenting'and'want'to'see'what'happens!).'

Note:'This'rule'only'applies'to'Polawax.'It'does'not'apply'to'any'other'emulsifier.'Each'emulsifier'has'its'own'rules'and'you'need'to'talk'to'your'supplier'about'the'suggested'usage'rates'for'your'emulsifier'of'choice.''

THE,COOL,DOWN,PHASE,The'cool'down'phase'can'be'found'at'the'end'of'the'lotion'making'process'when'the'temperature'is'below'45˚C'to'50˚C'or'122˚F'to'140˚F.'''What,do,we,put,in,the,cool,down,phase?'Pretty'much'anything'that'won't'tolerate'the'heated'and'held'phases'of'our'water'or'oil,'meaning'anything'that'should'be'added'at'below'70˚C/158˚F.'It'doesn't'matter'if'it's'water'or'oil'soluble','if'it'doesn't'like'heat,'it'goes'into'this'phase.'This'generally'includes'extracts,'silicones,'some'cationic'polymers'(like'honeyquat),'most'preservatives,'Vitamin'E,'


fragrance'and'essential'oils,'and'fancy'things'like'cosmeceuticals.''Most'of'our'cool'down'phase'ingredients'call'for'50˚C/140˚F'or'lower,'so'what'should'you'do'if'you'have'something'that'calls'for'60˚F/150˚F'or'45˚C/122˚F?'I'like'to'consider'my'cool'down'phase'to'be'45˚C/122˚F,'so'I'can'add'all'the'cool'down'ingredients'together.'You'can'add'something'that'asks'for'60˚C'at'45˚C,'but'you'don't'want'to'do'it'the'other'way'around.'The'key'is'not'to'add'them'at'the'higher'heat'and'hold'temperatures.''For'instance,'honeyquat'wants'to'be'added'at'50˚C'or'lower,'as'does'liquid'Germall'Plus.'I'can'add'those'at'50˚C'or'45˚C'and'see'the'same'results.'Don't'go'below'35˚C/95˚C'as'we'll'start'to'see'our'ingredients'become'less'soluble'(the'higher'the'heat,'the'greater'the'solubility'of'most'of'our'ingredients,'with'a'few'exceptions).'I'generally'use'45˚C/122˚F'as'the'start'of'my'cool'down'phase.'

GREAT,QUESTION!,HOW,BIG,CAN,THE,COOL,DOWN,PHASE,BE?,Jillian'asks:'How%big%can%the%cool%down%phase%be?%Is%there%a%general%percentage%point%at%which%the%emulsion%would%fail?'

That's'a'great'question,'and'one'I've'never'seen'asked'or'answered'before.'I've'had'some'pretty'huge'cool'down'amounts','15%,'for'instance','and'still'had'stability'in'my'lotions.'It’s'less'about'the'size'of'the'cool'down'phase'and'more'about'what’s'in'it.'If'you’re'including'a'ton'of'essential'oils'–'for'instance,'2%'peppermint,'2%'spearmint,'and'1%'camphor'in'a'foot'lotion,'you’re'adding'5%'oils'to'your'product.'This'could'cause'some'problems'with'the'emulsification,'so'make'sure'you'compensate'for'this'in'your'emulsifier.'Or'if'you’re'including'a'lot'of'room'temperature'or'cold'water'–'for'instance,'a'hydrosol'or'liquid'extract'–'this'could'cause'a'problem.'But'for'the'most'part,'you'can'have'a'reasonably'sized'cool'down'phase'and'not'see'problems'as'long'as'you'have'compensated'for'the'inclusion'of'whatever’s'in'there'in'the'other'phases.''

HOW,DO,I,KNOW,WHEN,TO,INCLUDE,AN,INGREDIENT?,If'you're'making'lotions,'shampoos,'conditioners,'or'any'other'bath'and'body'products,'the'way'to'know'what'goes'where'depends'upon'two'things','the'solubility'of'the'ingredient'and'how'sensitive'it'is'to'heat.'''The'heated'phase'of'any'product'should'be'heated'and'held'for'20'minutes'at'70˚C.'The'cool'down'phase'starts'at'between'45˚C'to'50˚C.'So'if'something'can'handle'70˚C'or'over'or'quite'clearly'needs'to'be'melted','like'SCI,'our'emulsifiers,'beeswax','then'we'


know'we'have'to'put'them'in'the'heated'phase'of'something.'The'oil'phase'should'contain'all'the'things'that'are'oil'soluble','oils,'butters,'waxes,'emulsifiers,'thickeners,'and'so'on.'The'water'phase'should'contain'all'the'things'that'are'water'soluble','water,'hydrosols,'proteins,'and'so'on.'Both'phases'should'only'contain'those'things'that'can'handle'70˚C'or'higher.''Here's'an'example'with'conditioner.'If'we'want'to'add'BTMS,50,'we'know'it'must'be'melted'and'it'is'oil'soluble,'so'it'goes'in'the'heated'oil'phase.'If'we'want'to'add'aloe'vera,'we'know'it's'water'soluble'and'can'be'heated,'so'it'goes'into'the'heated'water'phase.''But'let's'say'you'want'to'add'honeyquat'to'the'mix.'I'know'it's'water'soluble,'but'it's'heat'sensitive,'so'I'will'put'this'in'the'cool'down'phase.'What'about'polyquat'7?'There'aren't'any'disclaimers'about'heat'with'this'ingredient,'and'I'know'it's'water'soluble,'so'I'can'add'it'to'the'heated'water'phase'or'cool'down'phase.'If'I'want'to'add'dimethicone'or'cyclomethicone,'I'know'both'are'oil'soluble'but'I'll'add'them'to'the'cool'down'phase'because'they're'heat'sensitive.''What,happens,if,you,include,something,in,the,heated,phase,that,should,be,in,the,cool,down,phase?'A'lot'of'things!'You'might'inactivate'the'ingredient,'it'could'give'off'a'horrible'smell'(like'honeyquat,'for'instance),'it'could'destroy'the'emulsion,'or'you'could'change'the'skin'feel'of'the'product.'The'most'likely'outcome'is'that'you'will'inactivate'the'ingredient','this'is'most'common'with'preservatives'and'extracts','or,'as'you'would'find'with'a'fragrance,'it'll'be'gone'by'the'time'you'combine'the'two'phases.''What,happens,if,you,including,something,in,the,cool,down,phase,that,should,be,in,the,heated,phase?'This'one's'a'lot'tougher'to'answer'because'it'could'have'no'impact'at'all,'it'could'ruin'an'emulsion,'or'it'could'have'weird'side'effects'you'didn't'expect.'If'I'add'a'ton'of'cold'aloe'vera'to'a'lotion,'it'might'mess'with'the'emulsion.'On'the'other'hand,'I'have'added'polyquat'7'to'the'heated'and'cool'down'phases'of'my'products'with'no'effect.''What'do'you'do'with'something'that'might'have'a'temperature'of'60˚C'or'falls'between'the'heated'and'cool'down'phase?'For'the'most'part,'throw'that'into'the'cool'down'phase,'or'watch'that'thermometer'for'the'right'moment'(I'generally'put'those'in'the'cool'down'phase'to'make'life'easier).''


So'what'you'want'to'know'about'every'ingredient'is'the'solubility','oil'or'water'soluble','and'what'temperature'it'can'take!'That'will'determine'which'of'the'three'phases'you'would'include'your'ingredient!'

IT’S,CHEMISTRY,TIME:,SOLUBLE,AND,DISPERSIBLE, ,When'something'is'soluble,'it'means'it'will'dissolve'in'the'solvent'and'becomes'part'of'a'homogeneous'solution.'Think'of'it'like'salt'dissolving'in'water.'If'you've'dissolved'it'correctly,'you'can't'see'the'flecks'of'salt'floating'in'the'water.'(The'salt'is'the'solute'and'the'water'is'the'solvent.)'''If'something'is'a'solubilizer,'it'will'dissolve'the'solute'into'the'solvent'and'you'll'get'a'homogeneous'creation.'There'is'a'limit'to'how'much'solute'can'be'dissolved'in'the'solvent'before'a'precipitate'occurs'(the'precipitate'is'the'stuff'that'sinks'to'the'bottom'and'won't'stay'in'the'solution).'Each'ingredient'has'a'different'solubility','salts'are'very'soluble,'gold'isn't.'

'There's%a%funny%joke%to%remember%this%?%If%you%aren't%part%of%the%solution,%you're%part%of%the%precipitate.%Okay,%maybe%it's%only%funny%to%us%chemistry%geek%types!%%'If'you'see'something'that'says'it's'water'or'oil'soluble,'that'means'it'will'dissolve'completely'in'the'water'or'oil.'If'you'put'an'oil'soluble'ingredient'into'water,'you'll'see'that'lovely'mass'of'oil'floating'at'the'top'pretty'soon!''When'something'is'dispersible,'it'means'it'will'stay'suspended'in'the'mixture,'but'it'will'always'be'separate'and'won't'form'a'homogeneous'solution.'When'we'use'fragrance'or'essential'oils'in'something'like'a'body'wash,'the'oils'aren't'dissolved'but'suspended.'We'don't'notice'a'huge'difference'unless'those'oils'separate'out'and'form'an'oily'mass'on'top'of'the'body'wash,'which'can'happen'if'you'use'too'much!'So'if'something'is'a'disperser,'it'means'it'keeps'the'ingredients'suspended'in'the'product'and'you'won't'get'a'homogeneous'solution.'You'might'not'notice'this','you'don't'notice'a'water'soluble'ester'in'a'body'wash'because'it'looks'like'a'homogeneous'solution,'but'there'might'be'tiny'little'fat'molecules'that'are'separate'from'the'actual'solution.''


IT’S,CHEMISTRY,TIME:,MORE,FUN,WITH,SOLUBILITY!,,Solubility'is'a'pretty'important'part'of'making'bath'&'body'products,'but'we'don't'talk'about'it'much.'In'essence,'solubility'is'the'ability'of'a'solid,'liquid,'or'gas'(the'solute)'to'dissolve'in'a'liquid'solvent'to'create'a'homogeneous'solution'(homogenous'meaning'a'mixture'that'shows'no'variation'in'properties,'like'Kool,Aid'dissolved'in'water','you'don't'see'big'particles'in'there).''The'solubility'of'the'solute'depends'on'the'type'of'solvent'(water,'oil,'alcohol,'and'so'on),'the'temperature,'and'the'pressure.'(There'is'a'concept'called'the'STP'or'SATP,'which'stands'for'standard'temperature'and'pressure.'I'was'taught'it'was'25˚C'and'1'atm'or'the'pressure'at'sea'level,'but'it'can'vary'depending'upon'the'textbook'and'instructor.)''If'something'is'soluble'in'water,'the'solubility'generally'goes'up'when'you'increase'the'temperature'and'generally'goes'down'when'you'reduce'the'temperature.'Something'like'salt'dissolves'readily'in'cold'water,'but'dissolves'better'and'faster'in'warm'or'hot'water.'This'is'one'of'the'reasons'we'dissolve'extracts'or'allantoin'or'other'solid'things'in'warm'water'or'add'it'to'the'heated'water'phase','it'will'dissolve'or'mix'easier'and'create'a'nice'homogeneous'mixture.''If'two'things'are,immiscible,'it'means'they'will'not'mix'or'dissolve'well'(like'oil'and'water'without'an'emulsifier).'Some'things'are'very'soluble','salts,'for'instance','and'some'things'are'kinda'soluble,'meaning'they'aren't'completely'soluble'or'need'some'help'to'be'soluble,'like'an'increase'in'heat'or'some'serious'stirring.'If'we'add'too'much'of'a'very'soluble'thing'or'take'something'that'isn't'completely'soluble'and'add'more'of'

it'or'fail'to'raise'the'temperature,'we'get'a'precipitate,'which'is'a'solid'of'the'solute'that'can'fall'to'the'bottom'of'our'creation.'We'see'this'kind'of'thing'when'adding'too'much'salt'to'water'(the'stuff'on'the'bottom'is'the'precipitate).''In'this'toner,'I'dissolved'honeysuckle'and'green'tea'extract'at'0.5%'each.'If'I'put'too'much'of'this'extract'in'or'used'the'wrong'kind'of'solvent'(oil,'for'instance),'the'extracts'would'fall'to'the'bottom'and'form'a'gooey'mess,'which'would'be'the'precipitate.'As'you'can'see,'there'is'no'gooey'mess!'And'yes'"kinda'soluble"'is'a'science,y'term!'


'If'you've'made'a'toner'and'found'a'precipitate'at'the'bottom'that'requires'you'to'shake'it'before'using'–'like'you'see'here'in'toner'2',''or'if'you've'made'a'lotion'in'which'your'allantoin'or'MSM'crystallized,'you've'either'added'too'much'or'added'it'at'the'wrong'temperature'or'used'a'solvent'that'won't'dissolve'the'compounds.'(Try'mixing'shea'butter'in'alcohol','won't'work!'Now'dissolve'it'in'oil!'Success!)''A'rule'of'thumb'is'"like'dissolves'like".'Water'dissolves'water'

soluble'things;'oil'dissolves'oil'soluble'things.'Water'is'polar;'oil'is'non,polar.'(If'you'want'to'learn'more'about'this'topic,'I'suggest'this'wiki'page'for'a'great'place'to'start!)''So'why'am'I'boring'you'with'chemistry'when'there’s'lotiony'fun'to'be'had?'There'are'good'reasons'for'suggesting'0.5%'of'an'extract'other'than'the'effect'it'might'have'on'your'skin'or'bank'account.'When'we're'formulating,'we'need'to'take'into'account'the'possibility'that'our'lovely'extracts'or'additions'might'precipitate'out'and'cause'an'icky'mess'on'the'bottom'of'our'bottles,'which'is'not'very'pretty'and'a'waste!'Many'manufacturer's'data'sheets'or'bulletins'on'ingredients'include'the'solubility','generally'expressed'by'moles'of'the'ingredient','so'you'can'see'if'how'much'you'should'add.''

A,SIDE,NOTE:,DO,WE,ADD,THE,WATER,TO,THE,OIL,PHASE,OR,THE,OIL,TO,THE,WATER,PHASE,FOR,AWESOME,EMULSIFICATION?,

After'heating'and'holding,'should'we'add'the'water'phase'to'the'oil'phase'or'the'oil'phase'to'the'water'phase?'My'first'instinct'is'to'add'the'oil'phase'to'the'water'phase'as'my'water'phase'container'is'generally'larger'than'the'oil'phase'container.'But'then'I'read'something'two'years'ago'that'encouraged'me'to'add'the'water'phase'to'the'oil'phase…''When,you're,making,an,emulsion,,pouring,the,water,into,the,oil,phase,forces,an,inversion,,which,

makes,the,emulsification,more,stable!,'


But'a'comment'from'this'post'from'Anonymous'got'me'thinking'yet'again!''Hi%Susan,%what%I%understand%from%reading%the%Dr.%Z%explanation%you%linked%is%that%the%oil%phase%can%be%added%to%the%water%phase%and%phase%inversion%will%still%occur.%Dr.%Z%described%adding%the%oil%phase%to%the%water%phase%and%having%an%initial%w/o%emulsion%form%because%of%the%lack%of%H?bonding%and%low%HLB%of%the%heated%emulsifier.%It%then%said%that%at%the%Phase%Inversion%Temperature%the%emulsion%changes%to%o/w.%It%did%not%mention%anything%about%adding%the%oil%to%the%water%or%the%water%to%the%oil%and%any%effect%of%either%on%phase%inversion%occurring%so%I%don't%understand%why%you%say%the%water%phase%must%be%added%to%the%oil%phase.%'If'the'idea'of'phase'inversion'is'new'to'you,'check'out'this'link'to'Dr'Z’s'chemistry'on'the'topic'of'phase'inversion','http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1020026/emulsiondrz.pdf''I'went'off'to'find'stuff'to'show'this'reader'why'I'wrote'what'I'wrote.'But'I'couldn't'find'anything!'Everything'I'found'was'silent'on'the'issue,'or'stated'something'like'"add'phase'B'(oil'phase)'to'phase'A'(water'phase)'after'heating".'Hmm.'I'checked'my'textbooks','no'luck.'I'checked'a'ton'of'data'sheets'from'various'companies','including'the'data'sheet'on'Polawax','and'found'nothing'indicating'we'should'be'adding'the'water'to'the'oil.'''But'I'know'I'read'it'somewhere'or'at'least'heard'it'from'a'very'reputable'source,'because'it'would'have'to'be'on'good'authority'to'get'my'change'what'is'a'lot'easier','pouring'the'oil'into'the'water,'which'means'I'm'only'using'two'containers','to'something'more'annoying'that'required'further'cleaning!'I'was'about'to'give'up'for'the'day,'when'I'thought'I'd'check'the'Dish'forum'for'posts'that'happened'around'the'day'I'wrote'this'post'because'obviously'I'had'seen'something'interesting'there'from'Liz.'I'followed'the'trail'and'found'this'from'the'mighty'LabRat…'''What'are'the'adverse'effects'if'any'of'mixing'the'water'into'the'oil?'''

I'suppose'technically,'adding'water'to'the'oil'could'make'a'better'emulsion.'When'you'add'the'first'few'drops'of'your'water'phase'to'the'oil'phase,'you'are'forming'a'water,in,oil'(W/O)'emulsion.'As'you'add'more'water,'your'emulsion'changes'from'a'water,in,oil'(W/O)'emulsion'to'an'oil,in,water'(O/W)'emulsion.'This'is'called'a'phase'inversion.'Emulsions'that'go'through'a'phase'inversion'are'supposed'to'be'better'emulsions.'This'has'been'supported'in'the'technical'literature,''


'Most'cosmetic'emulsions'are'O/W'emulsions.'There'is'more'water'than'oil'in'the'formula.'It's'easier'to'add'a'small'amount'of'oil'to'a'large'amount'of'water.'When'large'batches'are'being'made,'due'to'the'physical'configurations'of'the'main'mixing'vessel'and'the'stirrer,'most'often,'the'stirrer'does'not'reach'down'far'enough'to'stir'the'oils'as'the'water'is'being'added.'''

'And'these'are'Liz's'comments'from'the'thread'that'started'my'brain'working!'''

In'an'O/W'emulsion'you'add'the'oil'phase'to'the'water'phase.'For'a'W/O'emulsion'you'add'the'water'phase'to'the'oil'phase.'That'is'because'the'emulsifiers'for'each'type'O/W'or'W/O'is'designed'to'make'that'particular'type'of'emulsion.'Phase'Inversion'as'it'is'called'is'reversing'these'phases'which'can'result'in'a'more'stable'or'unstable'product.'These'methods'usually'use'PIT'('Phase'Inversion'Temperatures)'along'with'certain'types'of'emulsifers'that'would'offer'more'stability.'I'have'done'it'with'success'a'few'times.'Many'other'times'I'ended'up'with'messy'separated'emulsions.'''Very'true'as'well'as'the'addition'rate'(how'fast'or'slow)'will'influence'the'phase'to'volume'ratio'for'"catastrophic"'inversion'to'take'place.'Non,ionic'O/W'emulsifiers'typically'will'go'through'phase'inversion'as'heating'occurs'anyway'and'then'settle'to'the'most'stable'morphology.'I'think'this'is'what'people'experience'with'their'varied'methods'here.'Lab'Rat'mentions'heating'to'the'same'temp'kills'bugs'but'it'also'will'allow'for'phase'inversion'to'take'place'or'not'depending'again'on'temperature,'surfactants'used,'which'phase'is'added'first,'how'much'and'at'what'rate'(how'fast'etc.)'cooling'temp'and'rate,'shear'etc..'However'this'is'not'to'say'inversion'always'takes'place'to'produce'a'more'stable'emulsion.'Many'things'can'influence'stability'of'emulsions,'not'just'phase'to'volume'ratios.'The'problem'with'"catastrophic"'inversion'and'why'I'personally'don't'do'this'method'more'often'is'you'really'don't'know'the'precise'time'of'inversion'nor'the'actual'physical'conditions'you'end'up'with.'So'I'follow'the'more'conventional'methods'for'now.''Uncontrolled'phase'inversion'is'typically'what'we'do'and'it'is'a'hit'or'miss'for'stability.'The'plus'to'a'controlled'and'hopefully'in'our'uncontrolled'phase'inversion'the'end'result'is'a'finer'and'more'stable'emulsion.'At'least'this'has'been'my'understanding'how'it'should'be.'Ideally'in'making'any'emulsions'you'want'to'


use'the'least'amount'of'time,'energy'and'emulsifier'to'produce'the'best'possible'emulsion.''

'So'the'gist'of'it'all'is'this:'Although'adding'water'to'the'oil'phase'can'result'in'a'more'stable'emulsion'(and'is'backed'up'by'science),'for'us'as'homecrafters,'we'seem'to'have'just'as'much'of'a'chance'of'messing'it'up'as'getting'it'right'because'we'really'don't'know'when'that'phase'inversion'might'happen.'As'both'Liz'and'LabRat'are'suggesting'that'the'homecrafter'should'be'adding'the'oil'phase'to'the'water'phase,'I'am'going'to'go'with'this'suggestion'from'now'on!'''We'can'add'the'oil'phase'to'the'water'phase'when'making'a'lotion'and'still'get'a'great'lotion.,,

SIDE,NOTE:,SOME,THOUGHTS,ON,GREASINESS,IN,LOTIONS,I'know'most'people,'if'asked,'will'say'they'prefer'a'drier'feeling'lotion,'but'a'lot'of'those'perceptions'are'based'upon'commercial'products'that'contain'mostly'mineral'oil.'Most'of'our'vegetable'oils'feel'less'greasy'than'mineral'oil,'and'all'of'our'esters'definitely'feel'that'way.''So'here'are'a'few'of'my'thoughts'on'drier'feeling'lotions...''1.'Don't'base'your'assessment'of'greasiness'on'a'commercial'lotion'(things'like'Jergen's'or'house'brand'hand'lotions).'Most'homemade'lotions'feel'less'greasy'than'commercial'products.''2.'Choose'Incroquat'BTMS,50'as'your'emulsifier.'This'one'little'switch'can'make'a'very'greasy'lotion'feel'much'drier'with'what's'generally'described'as'a'powdery,'silky'feeling.''3.'Think'about'your'emollients'and'choose'drier'feeling'oils.'Recipes'with'shea'butter'will'feel'greasier'than'those'made'with'mango'butter.'Recipes'with'soy'bean'and'sunflower'oil'will'feel'greasier'than'those'with'avocado'or'borage'or'evening'primrose'oil.'Learn'about'your'oils,'and'know'which'ones'offer'the'feeling'you'want.''4.'Add'a'little'IPM'or'IPP'to'your'product.'As'little'as'2%'of'these'esters'can'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'pretty'dramatically!''We’ll'be'delving'more'into'reducing'greasiness'later'on'in'this'e,book.''


SIDE,NOTE,ON,WEIGHTS,,PERCENTAGES,,AND,VOLUME,

HOW&TO&CONVERT&PERCENTAGES&TO&WEIGHT&IN&A&RECIPE&Here's'an'e,mail'question'I'received'from'JC:'I%don't%know%anything%about%chemistry,%so%I%don't%understand%the%%%you%put%for%each%ingredient.%I'm%used%to%read%cooking%recipes,%where%they%tell%you%1%teaspoon%of%this,%1%cup%of%that,%but%I%don't%know%how%I%would%measure%the%%%of%the%ingredients%in%your%formulations.%Maybe%you%have%a%blog%post%explaining%this%but%I%haven't%found%it%yet,%so%can%you%enlighten%me%about%

how%should%I%measure%the%ingredients%for%a%formulation?%%Do%I%use%a%scale?%a%measuring%cup?%How%do%the%%%translate%into%miligrams,%grams,%ounces%or%whatever%measurement%system%is%the%appropriate%one?%%All'the'recipes'on'my'blog'are'in'percentages'and'they'should'add'up'to'100%'(although'there'are'some'differences'in'the'amount'of'preservative'used).'The'easiest'way'to'convert'the'recipe'is'to'think'of'the'percentage'sign'as'the'word'"grams".'So'if'you'see'70%'water,'you'd'use'70'grams'of'water.'15%'oil'would'become'15'grams'of'oil'and'so'on.'The'recipe'will'total'100'grams'of'product.''But'let's'say'you'want'to'make'a'really'large'batch'of'lotion'to'give'as'Christmas'presents.'Substitute'the'percentage'sign'with'grams,'then'multiply'by'how'much'you'want'to'make.'If'you'want'500'grams'of'lotion,'you'd'see'the'70%'water'as'70'grams'of'water'x'5'for'350'grams'of'water.'15%'oil'would'be'15'grams'x'5'for'75'grams'of'water.'And'so'on.'You'd'have'500'grams'of'product.''You'can'do'the'same'thing'for'weighed'ounces,'but'it'really'is'a'pain'in'the'bum.'The'easiest'way'is'to'convert'the'percentage'sign'to'ounces,'move'the'decimal'one'space'to'the'left,'and'use'that.'So'if'you'have'70%'water,'you'd'convert'that'to'70'ounces,'then'move'the'decimal'over'once'space'to'the'left'and'call'it'7'ounces.'The'recipe'will'total'10'ounces'of'product.'(But'this'is'a'way'more'complicated'way'to'do'it!)'You'can'multiply'the'ounces'by'the'amount'of'product'you'want'to'make.'

WHY&DO&WE&USE&WEIGHTED&MEASUREMENTS&IN&OUR&RECIPES?&For'accuracy.'Using'cups'and'teaspoons'aren't'accurate,'so'we'might'end'up'with'more'or'less'emulsifying'wax'than'we'need,'which'can'result'in'an'epic'lotion'fail'or'end'up'


with'more'beeswax'than'we'want'in'a'lotion'bar,'leading'to'drag'on'our'skin.'It'makes'it'easier'to'replicate'that'awesome'recipe'you'made'last'time,'as'well.'''Pure'water'at'4˚C'is'our'baseline'for'specific'gravity'and'everything'else'is'compared'to'it.'Water'weighs'1000'grams'per'litre','1'kg'per'litre','or'1'gram'per'millilitre.'If'something'is'listed'as'being'less'than'1,'it'weighs'less'than'water'per'gram.'If'something'is'more'than'1,'it'weighs'more'than'water'per'gram.''So'if'we'see'cetrimonium'chloride'listed'as'having'a'specific'gravity'of'0.93,'we'know'this'means'it'weighs'0.93'grams'per'1'cc'or'1'ml.'Let's'say'we'want'5%'cetrimonium'chloride'in'our'conditioner.'If'we're'making'a'100'ml'batch'and'add'5'ml,'we'd'only'have'4.65%'cetrimonium'chloride.'Not'the'biggest'deal'in'the'world.'If'you'wanted'to'make'1'litre'of'conditioner'and'added'50'ml,'you'd'only'have'46.5'grams'of'cetac'or'4.65%.''Liquid'Germall'Plus'has'a'specific'gravity'of'1.15'to'1.25.'If'you'want'0.5%'in'a'lotion'and'add'it'in'volume'at'0.5'ml'to'a'100'ml'batch'of'lotion,'you'might'have'0.575'to'0.625'ml'preservative,'which'is'above'the'0.5%'recommended!''

A'lot'of'oils'have'a'specific'gravity'of'0.91'to'about'0.95,'so'adding'1'cc'or'1'ml'safflower'oil'(specific'gravity'0.90)'would'only'add'0.9'grams'of'oil'to'your'lotion.'If'you're'making'a'100'ml'batch'and'you're'wanting'10%'oil'will'leave'you'with'9'grams'of'oil,'not'10.'Take'this'even'higher'to'a'1000'ml'or'1'litre'batch'(multiplying'your'recipe'by'10)'and'you'll'have'90'grams'of'oil'instead'of'100!'This'can'throw'your'emulsification'out'of'whack'

and'will'deprive'you'of'10'grams'of'lovely'oil!''And'please'weigh'your'fragrance'oils!'I'made'this'fatal'error'when'I'was'a'newbie,'somehow'measuring'1'gram'of'fragrance'oil'as'being'2.5'ml!'If'my'fragrance'oil'had'a'specific'gravity'of'0.90,'then'I'was'using'2.25'grams'or'2.25%'in'a'100'gram'batch!'Now'THAT'S'overscented!'Fragrances'oil'can'vary','oatmeal,'milk'&'honey'from'one'supplier'could'be'1.12'and'another'could'be'0.91','so'weigh'them'to'make'your'life'easier.''This'goes'for'essential'oils'as'well!'They'can'start'at'0.78'and'increase'from'there.'Considering'how'many'essential'oils'have'suggested'limits,'you'don't'want'to'mess'up'here!'


'

HOW&CAN&I&CONVERT&THOSE&PERCENTAGES&TO&WEIGHT?&No'doubt'you've'come'across'recipes'that'use'grams'or'ounces'and'you'might'be'asking'yourself,'"How'do'I'convert'this'into'a'percentage'based'recipe?"'The'other'question'you'might'ask'yourself'is,'"Why'do'I'want'to'convert'this'into'a'percentage'based'recipe?"'and'I'll'answer'that'one'first.''

It's'best'to'work'in'percentages'for'two'reasons','it's'easier'to'make'larger'batches'and'you'can'check'to'see'if'all'the'ratios'are'in'order'and'if'all'the'ingredients'are'being'used'at'the'safe'or'suggested'levels'(for'instance,'too'little'or'too'much'e,wax).'This'last'bit'is'the'most'important'one,'because'you'could'multiply'a'non,percentage'based'lotion'easily.''So'how'do'you'convert'that'amazing'sounding'recipe'into'percentages?'With'the'wonders'of'math!'Here's'a'sample'recipe'we'can'work'with'(do'not'actually'make'this'recipe,'it's'an'example,'although'it'wouldn't'be'a'bad'recipe'but'I'd'want'to'add'1%'Vitamin'E'due'to'the'short'shelf'life'of'the'grapeseed'oil...)''GREEN,APPLE,&,GRAPES,LOTION,40'grams'water'10'grams'aloe'vera'3'grams'glycerin''15'grams'grapeseed'oil'10'grams'shea'butter'4'grams'emulsifying'wax'3'grams'cetyl'alcohol''1'gram'liquid'Germall'Plus'1'gram'fragrance'oil'1'gram'green'apple'extract''This'recipe'totals'88'grams.'So'let's'take'a'look'at'how'to'figure'out'what'each'ingredient'works'out'to'in'the'recipe.''


To'figure'out'percentage,'divide'the'amount'of'the'ingredient'by'the'total'weight'of'the'recipe.'So'you'd'divide'everything'in'this'case'by'88.''40'grams'of'water'/'88'grams'total'='45.45'(round'to'45.5)'10'grams'of'aloe'vera/'88'grams'total'='11.37'(round'to'11.5)'3'grams'of'glycerin'/'88'grams'total'='3.4'(round'down'to'3.0)'15'grams'grapeseed'oil'/'88'grams'total'='17.05'(round'to'17)'10'grams'shea'butter'/'88'grams'total'='11.37'(round'down'to'11.0)'4'grams'emulsifying'wax'/'88'grams'total'='4.54'(round'to'4.5)'3'grams'cetyl'alcohol'/'88'grams'total'='3.4'grams'(round'down'to'3.0)'1'gram'liquid'Germall'Plus'/'88'grams'total'='1.14'(rounded)'1'gram'fragrance'oil'/'88'grams'total'='1.14'(rounded)'1'gram'green'apple'extract'/'88'grams'total'='1.14'(rounded)''Total:'99.72''Are'the'ratios'and'suggested'usage'rates'right'for'each'ingredient?''We'need'our'preservative'to'be'at'0.5%'for'liquid'Germall'Plus,'so'we'need'to'decrease'that.''We'want'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil,'so'that's'about'right.''We'want'0.5%'of'an'extract,'so'let's'decrease'that.''And'we're'not'using'enough'emulsifier.'We'like'to'use'Polawax'at'25%'of'the'oil'phase'of'a'recipe.'In'this'case,'we'have'28%'oil'phase,'which'means'we'll'want'to'use'7%'Polawax.'If'we'd'made'this'recipe'in'the'way'suggested,'we'd'have'an'epic'lotion'fail!''So'let's're,write'this'recipe'as'a'percentage'based'recipe...''GREEN,APPLE,&,GRAPES,LOTION,IN,PERCENTAGES, ,45.5%'water'11.5%'aloe'vera'3%'grams'glycerin''17%'grapeseed'oil'11%'shea'butter'


7%'emulsifying'wax'3%'cetyl'alcohol''0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'green'apple'extract'Total'='100%'''You'can'make'a'nice'percentage'converter'in'Excel'(get'the'total'recipe'amount'then'divide'each'ingredient'by'the'total'to'get'the'result)'or'you'can'do'it'on'a'calculator.'I'would'create'one,'but'I'can't'seem'to'save'the'darn'thing'in'a'format'that'other'people'can'use!'(Excel'and'I'don't'get'along'very'well!)'''

HOW&TO&DOUBLE,&TRIPLE,&QUADRUPLE,&AND&DODECAHEX&RECIPES?&Tiffany'writes:''I%love%creating%concoctions%for%myself%and%others,%but%I%have%been%stumped%on%one%thing%that%I%hope%you%can%answer.%%%I%know%that%we%have%to%weigh%our%ingredients%to%get%the%most%accurate%measure,%and%I%have%done%that.%%My%question%is%once%I%have%weighed%my%ingredients%and%converted%those%weights%to%volumes%can%I%just%double,%triple,%quadruple%etc%

a%batch%if%I%want%to%create%more%of%it?%%I%know%you%can%do%that%in%food%recipes%but%I%did%not%know%if%it%would%be%the%same%with%cosmetics.''Yep!'That's'why'we'do'things'in'percentages','if'we'have'10%'of'an'ingredient,'it'could'be'10'grams,'100'grams,'or'1000'grams!'I'have'a'little'column'on'my'recipe'sheet'so'I'can'do'the'math'to'increase'the'batch'size'to'whatever'size'I'want.'And'I'haven't'noticed'any'weird'things'happening'when'I'increase'the'batch'size'dramatically'(say'to'make'2'kilograms'of'lotion,'so'20'times'my'normal'recipe)'the'way'you'might'with'a'food'recipe!''


HEATING,AND,HOLDING,OUR,PRODUCTS,

What&does&it&mean&to&heat&and&hold?&Heating'and'holding'means'heating'the'heated'oil'phase'and'heated'water'phase'separately'in'two'heat,resistant'containers'in'indirect'heat'(like'a'double'boiler)'for'20'minutes'at'70˚C'or'158˚F.'The'20'minutes'starts'when'the'ingredients'reach'the'required'temperature.'''

What&do&we&heat&and&hold?&&We'heat'and'hold'the'heated'oil'phase'and'heated'water'phases'of'lotions,'and'we'heat'and'hold'the'water'phases'of'things'like'shampoos,'body'washes,'bubble'baths,'and'cleansers.'We'don't'need'to'heat'and'hold'the'oil'phase'of'something'like'a'lotion'bar'if'we'are'making'anhydrous'or'non,water'containing'products.'But'if'we'have'a'water'phase,'that'product'must'be'heated'and'held.'

How&do&I&heat&and&hold?&Weigh'all'your'oil'phase'ingredients'into'a'heat'resistant'container.'Weigh'all'your'water'phase'ingredients'into'a'heat'resistant'container.'Heat'up'the'water'in'your'double'boiler','I'tend'to'boil'up'the'water,'then'reduce'the'heat'when'I'put'my'containers'into'the'double'boiler.'Watch'the'temperature'on'your'two'containers.'When'they'reach'70˚C'or'158˚F,'that's'when'the'heating'and'holding'starts.'Get'yourself'a'timer,'set'it'for'20'minutes,'and'when'the'buzzer'goes'off,'combine'the'two'phases'and'mix!''The'key'to'the'heating'and'holding'is'the'holding'part.'Heating'things'in'a'microwave'enough'to'melt'or'boiling'water'is'NOT'enough'to'achieve'the'goals'of'heating'and'

holding.'

Why&do&we&heat&and&hold?&The'first'goal'is'to'eliminate'any'possible'contamination'by'heating'it,'and'the'second'is'about'the'critical,micelle,concentration,'which'requires'that'both'phases'are'the'same'temperature'when'we'add'them'together.'And'finally,'we'need'the'phase'inversion'to'create'a'stable'emulsion.''


The'contamination'stuff'is'obvious.'If'we'are'using'water'with'icky'things'in'them,'a'prolonged'period'of'heating'and'holding'will'help'kill'the'nasties!''The'critical'micelle'concentration'is'a'little'more'complicated.'When'we'reach'the'critical'micelle'temperature'or'Krafft'temperature','suggested'as'70˚C'to'80˚C'for'Polawax','we'will'see'our'micelles'form'properly,'which'means'the'emulsification'has'worked'and'we'will'get'a'nice'lotion'that'shouldn't'separate.'If'our'oil'phase'is'at'70˚C'and'our'water'phase'is'at'100˚C'(boiling'point'of'water'in'Celsius),'then'they'may'not'come'together'properly.'If'our'oil'phase'is'lower'than'70˚C,'we'might'see'a'very'unstable'emulsion.''We'know'that'when'we'heat'something'we'increase'its'solubility.'Non,ionic'emulsifiers'(like'Polawax'and'e,wax'NF)'are'water'soluble'at'low'temperatures'and'oil'soluble'at'higher'temperatures.'At'the'lower'temperatures,'the'Polawax'forms'an'oil,in,water'emulsion.'At'the'higher'temperatures,'the'Polawax'forms'a'water,in,oil'emulsion.'So'shouldn't'we'do'it'at'lower'temperatures'so'the'Polawax'will'create'what'we'want','an'oil,in,water'emulsion?''Creating'a'water,in,oil'emulsion'that'will'eventually'turn'into'an'oil,in,water'emulsion'is'a'concept'called'phase'inversion.'We'need'to'reach'the'phase'inversion'temperature'to'make'this'process'work.'''If'you'are'boiling'your'water'and'heating'your'oils'in'a'microwave,'odds'are'pretty'good'that'you'don't'have'both'phases'at'the'same'temperature'and'you'won't'see'the'phase'inversion.'You'will'get'an'emulsion,'but'it'won't'be'as'stable'as'the'one'achieved'with'the'phase'inversion'method.''To'summarize:'If'we'heat'and'hold'our'ingredients'at'70˚C'for'20'minutes,'we'are'assured'that'our'emulsifier'will'be'very'oil'soluble,'which'means'it'will'create'a'water,in,oil'emulsion'that'will'eventually'become'an'oil,in,water'emulsion,'which'is'very'stable.'We'are'assured'our'micelles'will'be'a'nice'size,'and'we'have'eliminated'most'of'the'nasty'contaminants'that'could'ruin'our'lotion.'In'short,'by'heating'and'holding,'we'are'ensuring'we'have'a'stable'lotion'that'will'remain'emulsified'and'bug,free'for'a'very'long'time!''I'realize'there'are'times'that'you'have'made'a'lotion'without'heating'and'holding'for'the'full'20'minutes,'and'I'realize'there'are'some'very'knowledgeable'people'out'there'who'


swear'by'heating'the'ingredients'up'in'a'microwave,'but'having'something'work'once'or'twice'doesn't'mean'it'works'all'the'time.'

Why&do&we&need&two&separate&containers&for&heating&and&holding?&&We're'going'to'mix'it'all'together'eventually'and/or'I'don't'have'enough'space'to'heat'two'containers'in'my'double'boiler,'so'why'bother?'''Emulsification'comes'in'three'ways','heat'emulsification,'chemical'emulsification,'and'mechanical'emulsification.'When'you'get'an'emulsion'that'works'on'day'one'but'fails'on'day'ten,'it'could'be'that'you'mixed'it'well'enough'to'get'a'mechanical'emulsion,'but'messed'up'on'the'chemical'emulsification'(not'enough'emulsifier'or'the'wrong'emulsifier)'or'the'heat'emulsification'(not'hot'enough,'phases'not'at'the'same'temperature).'It'makes'sense'to'heat'all'the'ingredients'in'the'same'container','we'ensure'both'phases'are'at'the'same'temperature'when'we'remove'it'from'the'heat'to'mix'it','but'it'can'make'us'think'we'have'an'emulsion'when'we'don't.'The'phases'need'to'be'held'separately'so'when'they'meet'after'the'heat'and'hold,'they'have'a'chance'to'create'an'emulsion.'If'we'have'been'holding'them'together,'they'could'be'doing'the'emulsification'thing'at'much'lower'temperatures,'which'we'know'is'unstable!''Here's'a'great'quote'from'the'legendary'LabRat:'When'you'mix'your'emulsifiers,'waxes,'oils,'water'and'other'additives'all'together'in'one'pot,'you'are'making'your'emulsifier(s)'work'harder.'That's'not'bad'and'it's'not'good'but'it's'probably'very'inefficient.'''

What&if&you&go&over&70˚C&when&heating&&&holding?&Nedeia'asks:'What%could%go%wrong%if%you%heat%your%ingredients%at%more%than%70%degrees,%say%80?%I%do%not%have%a%crock%pot,%and%the%best%way%I%have%found%to%get%the%2%phases%at%the%right%temp%at%the%same%time,%is%to%place%them%into%a%bowl%of%hot%water.%They%get%to%70%degrees%or%a%bit%more,%but%I%can’t%hold%at%70%for%20%minutes,%the%water%will%cool%

down%eventually,%and%constantly%heating%it%from%time%to%time%is%not%an%option%for%someone%that%also%needs%to%watch%a%kid.%%'Using%a%0.5?1%%Optiphen%would%keep%the%lotion%mold%and%germ%free%for%a%period%of%time,%so...%could%I%skip%the%hold%period,%especially%because%I%cannot%control%the%temperature%without%the%risk%of%"burning"%the%oils?%


'You'have'two'questions'here,'so'let's'take'a'look'at'question'number'one:'What'could'go'wrong'if'you'go'over'70˚C'to'80˚C'when'heating'and'holding?''The'short'answer'is'that'going'to'80˚C'isn't'a'bad'thing'when'heating'and'holding,'but'I'wouldn't'want'to'go'over.'The'long'answer'is'this...'

Why&are&we&so&concerned&about&burning&or&heating&our&oils?&For'some'strange'reason,'we'see'our'oils'as'remarkably'fragile'when'it'comes'to'heating'and'holding.'This'is'the'number'one'reason'people'say'they'don't'want'to'heat'and'hold','they're'worried'about'losing'the'goodness'in'the'oils,'speeding'up'oxidation,'or'having'them'burn.'Oils'can'handle'a'lot'more'heat'than'we'think!''All'oils'have'a'smoke'point'and'we'don't'want'heat'our'oils'above'that'point,'but'they'really'aren't'that'fragile!'For'instance,'camellia'seed'oil'has'a'smoke'point'of'485˚F'or'251.7˚C,'grapeseed'has'a'smoke'point'of'420˚F'or'216'˚C,'and'even'flax'seed'can'handle'225˚F'or'107˚C'(one'of'the'lowest'smoke'points).'As'you'can'see,'these'oils'can'handle'temperatures'far'higher'than'our'heating'and'hold'temperatures.'So'leaving'them'at'70˚C/158˚F'to'80˚C/176˚F'for'20'minutes'won't'burn'them'or'ruin'the'awesome'power'of'their'fatty'acids!''Having'said'this,'just'because'the'oils'can'handle'a'little'bit'more'heat'doesn't'mean'we'should'heat'our'other'ingredients'up'to'higher'levels!'I'wouldn't'want'to'go'over'80˚C'for'things'like'my'water'phase','more'evaporation'isn't'a'good'thing','and'I'wouldn't'want'to'expose'my'emulsifiers'to'something'more'than'80˚C.'But'it'is'safe,'for'the'most'part,'to'go'over'70˚C'when'you're'heating'and'holding.'(Yes,'there'are'some'ingredients'that'we'don't'want'to'heat'and'hold'and'some'that'don't'want'to'be'over'70˚C,'but'I'can't'go'into'every'ingredient'in'this'post!)''Just'make'sure'your'two'phases'are'around'the'same'temperature'when'you'add'them.'If'your'water'phase'is'at'60˚C'and'your'oil'phase'at'80˚C'(or'vice'versa),'this'can'lead'to'epic'lotion'failure.'If'you'can'get'them'within'a'few'degrees'of'each'other,'all'should'be'good!''I'don't'consider'heating'and'holding'optional.'It'is'necessary'to'ensure'we'get'a'safe,'stable'lotion.'If'you'don't'have'a'crock'pot,'get'something'like'one'at'a'thrift'store.'(I'could'get'you'at'least'three'crock'pots'at'my'local'Sally'Ann's'for'$10'each!)'You'can'


create'a'double'boiler'using'two'pots'on'a'stove,'but'if'you've'got'a'little'one'running'about,'that's'probably'not'an'option'either.''As'for'the'second'question','can'you'skip'the'hold'period?','no.'Yes,'your'preservative'will'work'to'stave'off'contamination,'but'you'need'to'heat'and'hold'the'lotion'to'ensure'you'start'with'lower'levels'of'contamination.'We'are'never'going'to'get'rid'of'the'bacteria,'yeast,'and'other'nasties'entirely'because'they're'everywhere'in'the'environment,'but'heating'and'holding'can'substantially'reduce'those'nasties!'Why'start'off'the'shelf'life'of'your'lotion'with'ickiness'when'it's'so'easily'avoided?'(Although,'having'said'this,'Optiphen'is'not'considered'a'broad'spectrum'preservative,'so'there's'always'the'chance'of'mould!)'As'well,'don't'you'want'a'well'emulsified'lotion?''If'you'really'want'to'avoid'heating'and'holding,'you'could'consider'an'emulsifier'like'Sucragel'AOF.'I'find'this'product'limited'in'that'I'can't'make'a'thick'lotion'and'it'feels'sticky,'but'it'can'be'used'without'heating'and'holding.'I'have'no'idea'how'much'it'costs'or'where'to'get'it,'but'if'you'really'can't'find'the'time'or'equipment'to'heat'and'hold,'this'might'be'an'option!'

What&if&I&can't&heat&and&hold?&&It's'not'expensive'to'visit'your'local'thrift'store'and'pick'up'an'electric'fondue'pot'or'crock'pot'to'help'you'heat'and'hold.'Or'you'can'create'a'double'boiler'on'your'stove'top.'(In'fact,'the'double'boiler'might'be'the'least'expensive'part'of'the'process.'Have'you'seen'the'cost'of'some'of'the'cosmeceuticals'lately?)''If'you'really'can't'heat'and'hold,'then'perhaps'lotion'making'isn't'for'you.'I'know'that'must'sound'harsh,'but'I'hope'I've'convinced'you'that'it'is'essential'to'make'safe,'stable'products.'You'can'make'anhydrous'products'(things'that'don't'contain'water)'like'lotion'bars'or'scrubs'because'we'don't'generally'heat'and'hold'them,'or'you'can'make'things'like'bath'salts'and'bath'bombs,'but'heating'and'holding'is'essential'for'things'that'contain'water.'

What’s&the&best&way&to&measure&temperature&of&our&ingredients?&I'like'to'use'a'pocket'thermometer,'but'there'are'many'other'choices.'You'could'go'with'an'instant'read'(or'relatively'instant'read)'digital'one','I'bought'a'nice'one'for'cooking'at'a'cooking'store'for'about'$10'or'so,'but'ask'the'proprietor'if'they'are'reliable'because'some'can'be'a'bit'


flaky','or'a'candy'thermometer.'Just'make'sure'you'have'something'reliable.'''I'like'to'keep'the'thermometer'away'from'the'bottom'of'the'jug'before'I'get'to'the'70˚C'point'because'it'could'be'taking'the'temperature'of'the'container'rather'than'the'contents,'but'when'I'get'to'70˚C,'I'tend'to'leave'it'in'there','one'in'the'water'container,'one'in'the'oil'container','and'check'it'now'and'then.'If'you're'like'me','easily'distracted'with'a'tendency'to'start'another'project'before'the'first'one'is'finished','get'a'timer'and'set'it'for'20'minutes'so'you'aren't'leaving'the'lotion'in'the'double'boiler'all'day!''

IT’S,CHEMISTRY,TIME!,pH,AND,OUR,PRODUCTS,In'some'recipes,'you'll'see'the'addition'of'citric'acid'or'sodium'hydroxide'(lye)'at'the'end'to'alter'the'pH'of'the'product.'Ideally,'our'products'will'be'between'4.5'and'7'(there'are'few'products'that'fall'outside'these'areas,'like'cold'processed'soap'and'some'moisturizers'with'AHAs),'and'the'citric'acid'decreases'the'pH,'making'it'more'acidic,'while'the'sodium'hydroxide'increases'the'pH,'making'it'more'alkaline.''For'the'most'part,'the'ingredients'we'use'are'pH'balanced,'so'we'don't'need'to'mess'around'much'when'making'lotions.'Oils,'butters,'hydrosols,'humectants,'preservatives,'

and'so'on'tend'to'be'around'pH'6'to'7,'so'we'don’t'need'to'worry'when'we’re'substituting'something'like'honey'for'glycerin,'olive'oil'for'rice'bran'oil,'or'aloe'vera'for'water.'When'we’re'adding'something'like'AHAs'or'salicylic'acid,'we'can'thrown'our'pH'out'of'whack.'Normally,'we'want'our'lotions'to'be'between'5.5'and'6.5'(our'skin'has'a'pH'of'about'5.5'so'we'want'something'that'is'similar'to'or'less'acidic'to'that'pH).'''If'you'want'to'increase'the'acidity'of'your'product'(reduce'the'pH),'I'recommend'using'citric'acid'at'0.2%'a'little'at'a'time'to'decrease'it'by'about'0.9'or'so.'(It'isn't'a'hard'and'fast'rule'that'it'will'reduce'it'by'0.9'at'a'time;'this'was'just'my'experience.'It'will'depend'upon'the'pH'of'your'product,'what'kind'of'product'it'is,'what'ingredients'you've'used,'and'so'on.)''If'you'want'to'increase'the'alkalinity'of'your'product'(raise'the'pH),'you'can'use'a'10%'lye'to'90%'water'solution'and'add'it'at'0.1%,'test,'then'another'0.1%'if'needed,'and'so'


on.'You'can'also'use'triethanolamine'(TEA)'(pH'of'10'to'11)'at'0.1%'at'a'time'to'increase'the'alkalinity'of'our'products.''Or'you'can'use'our'ingredients'to'change'the'pH'level.'Adding'something'like'an'AHA'(lactic'or'glycolic'acid)'will'decrease'your'pH.'''As%a%note,%if%you've%made%gels%with%carbomer,%you're%familiar%with%the%idea%of%increasing%the%alkalinity%of%the%product%?%add%some%TEA%or%18%%lye%solution%to%your%carbomer%and%you've%got%a%gel!%%'

GREAT,QUESTION!,COMPENSATION,FOR,EVAPORATION,Terri'wrote'this'comment'(and'Priya'seconded'it):''My%nagging%question%is%how%do%you%account%for%the%loss%due%to%evaporation%of%ingredients%during%the%heat%and%hold?%Have%separate%pots%with%just%water%and/or%other%ingredients%heating%as%well%to%add%later?%And%I%never%checked,%but%is%there%a%change%in%the%weight%for%oils,butters%after%the%heat/hold%as%well?%It%just%doesn't%seem%like%my%100g%'experiment'%doesn't%equal%100%in%the%end.''Great'question!'You'will'see'evaporation'in'your'water'phase'after'heating'and'holding;'it's'unlikely'you'll'see'a'big'change'in'your'oil'phase'after'heating'and'holding.'Whenever'you'make'a'product'that'will'be'heated'and'held,'we'need'to'think'about'evaporation!'''If'you'are'heating'and'holding'your'ingredients'for'20'minutes'at'70˚F,'you'will'see'some'evaporation'from'your'water'phase.'If'you'add'the'water'to'the'oil'phase'without'compensating'for'that'loss,'you'll'have'a'lot'less'water'in'your'lotion','you'might'think'you're'making'a'70%'lotion'but'are'really'making'a'60%'lotion.'This'isn't'a'huge'problem'

in'the'sense'that'you'will'still'get'a'stable'lotion,'but'it's'hard'to'replicate'that'wonderful'product'if'you'don't'know'how'much'was'lost.''Here's'what'I'do…'measure'out'my'heated'water'phase'into'my'heating'vessel'(usually'a'Pyrex'jug,'but'sometimes'my'awesome'Christmas'beaker).'Then'I'measure'the'jug'and'water'phase'together'so'I'know'how'much'they'should'weigh'at'the'end.'Write'this'number'down'(believe'me,'you'think'you'll'remember'it,'but'you'won't'when'you'get'into'playing'with'all'kinds'of'other'things'to'kill'the'heating'and'holding'


time!).'Start'your'heating'and'holding.'In'the'meantime,'weigh'out'some'distilled'water'and'heat'and'hold'that'for'the'20'minutes'(I'll'call'this'auxiliary'water'amount'to'make'things'easier).'When'you'take'your'heated'water'phase'away'from'the'heat,'just'before'you'add'the'oil'and'water'together,'weigh'the'heated'water'phase'container.'You'll'notice'there's'less'water'in'there','so'add'the'auxiliary'water'amount'to'make'up'the'correct'amount.'Make'sure'the'water'you're'about'to'add'has'the'same'temperature'as'the'heated'and'held'water'and'oil'phases'before'adding'it.'Now'add'the'water'phase'to'the'oil'phase,'mix,'and'enjoy'your'lotion!''As'a'note,'your'auxiliary'water'amount'can'be'anything'watery'like'aloe'vera,'hydrosols,'and'so'on,'but'I'generally'use'water.''

AND,A,NOTE,ON,EVAPORATION,AND,SURFACE,AREA,Evaporation'tends'not'to'be'our'friend'when'we’re'making'our'products.'Leaving'the'product'in'an'uncovered,'wide'mouthed'container'like'this'leaves'our'products'susceptible'to'losing'a'lot'of'water'in'a'short'period'of'time.'The'warmer'the'room,'the'more'water'loss'we'll'see.'A'product'like'this,'one'that's'high'in'water'content,'can'lose'a'ton'of'water'in'a'very'short'period'of'time','even'in'our'darn'it'the'furnace'is'broken'and'it's'snowing'outside'so'it's'only'

16˚C'or'62˚F'in'the'house'right'now'temperature'this'week,'I'went'from'having'about'91'ml'of'product'to'85'in'two'days!''You'could'use'this'to'your'advantage','if'you'have'a'bubble'bath,'body'wash,'shampoo,'or'other'surfactant'mix'that'needs'some'thickening,'you'can'use'the'power'of'evaporation'to'reduce'the'amount'of'water'in'the'product'over'time','but'then'you'leave'the'product'open'to'contamination'(check'out'this'post'on'contamination'and'packaging),'not'to'mention'things'like'bugs'or'particles'from'the'air'dropping'into'it!'(And'when'I'say'bugs,'I'don't'mean'little'ones'like'bacteria'or'fungus,'but'big'ones'like'flies!'These'little'creatures'seem'to'get'curious'in'my'workshop'at'night,'and'I've'found'all'kinds'of'weird'things'in'my'unused'Pyrex'jugs'when'I'reach'for'them!'Yuk!)''


Think'about'surface'area'when'you're'heating'and'holding'your'products.'For'something'like'the'water'phase'of'the'lotion,'the'larger'the'surface'area,'the'more'evaporation'you'll'see.'If'you'want'to'heat'250'ml'of'water,'it's'better'to'use'a'tall'container'than'a'shallow'flat'one','if'you'were'using'Mason'type'jars,'a'standard'sized'jar'is'better'than'a'wide'mouth'in'this'situation.'Using'something'like'this'Erlenmeyer'flask'will'reduce'how'much'evaporation'you'see'in'your'water'phase.'(And'will'look'seriously'awesome'and'science,y!)''Having'said'that,'a'larger'surface'area'can'be'your'friend'when'you're'heating'your'oil'phase'because'we're'not'as'concerned'with'evaporation'when'it'comes'to'oils,'butters,'esters,'and'so'on.'Depending'upon'the'ambient'air'temperature,'using'a'larger,'flatter'container'in'your'double'boiler'means'you'can'mix'in'those'larger'chunks'of'butters'without'removing'the'product'from'the'heat!'(If'it's'really'cold'in'your'workshop,'a'larger'surface'means'this'has'time'to'cool'when'the'temperature'is'very'low,'so'follow'this'advice'only'if'you're'in'a'reasonably'heated'room!'I've'had'BTMS,50'cooling'on'the'sides'of'my'container'while'the'liquid'under'the'surface'is'at'70˚C!)''

A,SIDE,NOTE,ON,KEEPING,YOUR,NOTES,ORGANIZED, ,Keeping'notes'isn't'just'important,'it's'essential'when'we're'formulating'our'products.'Keeping'and'staying'organized'isn't'my'strong'point,'but'I'am'meticulous'when'it'comes'to'my'products!'I'combine'the'computer'and'my'notebooks'to'make'sure'I'have'records'of'everything'I'make'or'formulate.''My'first'suggestion:'Create'a'folder'on'your'computer'just'for'your'cosmetic'chemistry'recipes.'I've'taken'this'a'step'further'and'I'have'sub,folders'for'different'product'types'or'things'I've'researched'so'I'can'find'them'quickly.'If'you're'the'type'who'

downloads'things'from'manufacturer's'sites,'rename'them'to'something'you'll'actually'understand'(instead'of'the'numbered'ones'I'get'from'most'sites).''As'a'note,'don't'bookmark'sites'because'they'can'go'away'(try'finding'something'on'Martha'Stewart'you'loved'6'months'ago!).'Save'the'page'somewhere.'If'you're'a'Mac'


user,'turn'it'into'a'PDF'by'choosing'"file"'then'"print"'then'print'to'PDF'and'save'it'as'something'you'will'remember.'I'have'no'idea'how'to'do'this'on'a'PC,'but'you'can'copy'the'text'and'save'it'in'a'text'file'somewhere.'(Macs'have'PDF'printing'built'in.'I'haven't'used'a'PC'in'years,'so'I'have'no'idea'if'they'do'this'now.)'''My'second'suggestion:'Keep'a'workshop'notebook'for'formulating.'I'have'this'one'you'see'above','don't'you'love'the'cover?'I'found'this'lime'green'periodic'table'paper'in'the'scrapbook'shop'and'had'to'make'a'book'out'of'it!','and'it'travels'between'the'workshop'and'my'computer'room.'I'keep'the'right'hand'side'for'the'recipes'and'process,'and'the'left'hand'side'for'the'research'I've'done'on'the'topic.''

So'for'instance,'I'm'trying'to'get'back'to'the'challenge'posted'in'December'2009'for'the'shower'jellies'(duplicating'Lush),'so'I'wrote'down'all'the'notes'I'll'need'in'the'workshop'for'working'with'carageenan,'details'on'the'various'surfactants'I'could'use,'and'other'things'I'might'find'useful.'On'the'right'hand'side,'I've'written'what'I'm'going'to'try'at'the'top,'then'my'notes'

on'what'I'actually'did'as'you'go'down'the'page.'When'I'm'done'formulating'for'the'morning,'I'll'come'into'the'computer'room'and'type'up'the'recipe'so'I'have'it'permanently.'(I'have'lost'notebooks'before'and'it's'a'catastrophic'event!)'Then'I'print'it!''My'third'suggestion:'Keep'a'binder'with'tried'and'true'recipes.'(I'have'a'binder'with'my'usual'recipes,'another'with'mineral'make,up'recipes,'and'a'third'for'potential'recipes'I'want'to'try'from'manufacturers.'You'don't'need'to'be'this'compulsive!)'I'put'the'recipes'into'plastic'sheet'covers'because'I'can'write'on'those'with'a'grease'pencil'(sometimes'called'a'China'marker)'or'with'a'dry'erase'pen'as'I'm'going'along,'even'if'I've'made'the'recipe'a'hundred'times.'(This'is'useful'for'ticking'off'when'you've'included'an'ingredient'or'for'doing'the'math'to'make'larger'batches.)'If'I'make'a'change'I'really'like,'I'pull'out'the'sheet'and'make'a'note'on'it'or'I'might'type'it'on'the'recipe'sheet'and're,print'it.'And'yes,'get'those'tabbed'dividers'because'eventually'you'll'have'tons'of'different'categories'and'you'don't'want'to'look'at'every'page'to'find'the'shampoo'recipe'you'want!''If'you're'also'doing'research,'I'suggest'going'for'smaller'notebooks'rather'than'larger'ones.'I'realize'a'300'page'book'is'a'better'deal'than'my'favourite'80'page'graph'paper'


ones,'but'I'can'have'a'book'for'each'topic'instead'of'trying'to'remember'where'I'put'that'information'on'lanolin.'I'know'it's'in'the'oils'notebook'(and'yes,'I'have'something'like'four'of'those!)'Or'make'sure'you'use'those'tab'dividers'in'a'binder'so'you'have'an'idea'of'where'everything'might'be'found!''I'realize'this'all'sounds'very'obsessive'compulsive,'but'it's'the'only'way'I'find'I'can'keep'everything'in'order.'I'love'my'computer,'but'there'is'always'a'chance'she'could'have'some'hardware'malfunction'and'I'could'lose'all'my'precious'recipes'and'writing,'so'having'a'paper'copy'is'a'great'way'to'ensure'you'always'have'something'on'hand!'(As'well,'what'happens'if'the''net'goes'down!'Oh'no!)''

COMMENTS&FROM&READERS&ABOUT&ORGANIZING&NOTES…&P'says:'I%keep%all%my%notes%on%my%computer,%and%I%love%not%having%paper%to%look%through!%When%I%started%out%crafting,%I%was%really%lucky%to%discover%that%I%have%Omni%Outliner,%a%note?taking/idea?organizing%program,%on%my%computer%?%I'd%never%used%it%before,%but%I%realized%quickly%it's%*perfect*%for%this%sort%of%thing!%All%my%info%is%in%a%single,%totally%not%overwhelming%document%?%it's%all%structured%like%a%tree,%and%you%can%compress%branches%so%you%don't%have%to%see%them...%and%the%whole%document%is%easily%searchable.%If%I%were%to%put%all%this%junk%in%a%word%document,%it'd%easily%be%hundreds%of%pages!%Here's%a%tutorial%on%Omni%Outliner%?%I%know%I'm%not%describing%it%that%well.%http://www.omnigroup.com/products/omnioutliner/videos/%%I%know%I%sound%like%an%infomercial...%they're%not%paying%me%or%anything,%haha,%I%just%can't%imagine%keeping%track%of%all%my%doings%without%it.%'So%between%my%Omni%document%and%an%Excel%spreadsheet%(necessary%for%changing%batch%sizes%and%calculating%%s),%it's%all%on%the%computer%for%me!%And%you%bet%I%have%it%all%backed%up%on%an%external%hard%drive!%'Laura'said:'Great%post!%FYI,%most%of%us%who%use%PC's%can%print%the%page%to%a%PDF%writer%instead%of%to%a%hard%copy.%Depending%on%the%web%browser%being%used,%saving%the%page%for%offline%viewing%may%be%an%option%as%well.''Lissa'said:'Great%ideas%on%notes/notebooks.%I%can't%be%without%mine.%I%hope%everyone%gives%your%suggestions%a%try.%Periodically,%I%go%back%and%update%a%recipe%detailing%the%qualities%after%a%month%or%three%months.%I%also%add%any%comments%I've%received%from%testers.%I'll%also%make%notes%with%ideas%for%improvements.%,,'


MAKING,A,BASIC,LOTION,Let’s'consider'our'questions'about'what'we’re'about'to'make…'What'kind'of'product'do'I'want'to'make?'Is'it'a'moisturizer,'body'milk,'lotion,'cream,'or'butter?'For'which'body'part'is'this'intended?'What'kind'of'skin'feel'do'I'want?'Do'I'have'a'specific'outcome'in'mind?'For'what'skin'type'am'I'making'this?''I'think'I'd'like'to'make'a'lighter'feeling'body'lotion'for'the'upcoming'spring'months'with'some'occlusive'ingredients'to'protect'me'from'the'elements'and'some'nice'humectants.'I'would'like'a'light'to'medium'skin'feel'with'some'glide.'I'don't'mind'a'little'greasiness'in'my'body'lotions.'And'although'I'have'oily'skin'on'my'face,'on'my'body'it'tends'to'be'normal','not'too'greasy,'not'too'dry','and'I'm'not'worried'about'comedogenic'ingredients.''

Okay,'so'I'm'looking'at'making'a'basic'lotion'recipe,'so'I'll'choose'my'basic'70%'water'recipe.'(When'I'use'the'word'"basic"'I'mean'to'be'a'base'for'where'we'start,'not'basic'as'in'skin'feel'or'ingredients.'We'can'make'this'as'elaborate'as'we'want!)'

BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'(69.5%'of'the'lotion)'69.5%'water''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'(29%'of'the'lotion)'15%'oil'5%'butter'3%'thickener'6%'emulsifier'(BTMS'or'Polawax)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'(1.5%'of'the'lotion)'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'preservative'(I'use'liquid'Germall'Plus)'(This'doesn't'total'100%'because'of'the'difference'in'preservatives!)''How'can'I'achieve'the'goals'of'the'lotion?'Where'to'start'first?''


Let's'start'with'the'water'phase'as'that's'the'least'complicated'phase'(in'my'humble'opinion).'I'think'I'll'add'some'glycerin'at'3%'to'act'as'my'humectant,'and'I'like'to'include'10%'aloe'vera'for'its'film'forming'and'soothing'qualities.'I'think'I'll'include'0.5%'allantoin'to'behave'as'my'barrier'ingredient.'(I'could'go'with'cocoa'butter'or'dimethicone,'but'if'I'm'making'this'a'light'lotion,'cocoa'butter'isn't'my'first'choice.)''So'my'water'phase'looks'like'this...'56%'water'10%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''You'll'notice'the'water'phase'still'works'out'to'69.5%'total.''Now'on'to'the'oil'phase.'I'm'going'to'stick'to'our'carrier'oils'and'butters'for'the'purposes'of'making'this'part'of'the'e,book'less'than'50'pages'long,'but'you'can'use'whatever'emollients'you'like'–'oils,'butters,'esters,'and'so'on.'And'I'normally'like'to'mix'my'oils'up'to'get'different'properties,'but'I'm'going'with'one'oil,'one'butter'in'this'recipe.''If'I'don't'mind'a'greasier'lotion,'then'soybean'oil'(light,'greasy),'rice'bran'oil'(medium'weight,'greasy),'and'sesame'oil'(medium,'greasy)'are'all'good'choices'thanks'to'the'high'levels'of'linoleic'acid'(which'is'great'for'increasing'skin's'barrier'repair'functions'and'reducing'transepidermal'water'loss)'and'they're'not'expensive.'If'I'wanted'a'drier'lotion,'then'I'could'consider'some'of'the'drier'oils'like'hazelnut'(light,'drier),'avocado'(medium'to'heavy,'drier),'or'macadamia'nut'oil'(light,'drier),'although'they'have'less'linoleic'acid'than'the'greasier'feeling'oils.''What'butters'could'I'use?'I'could'use'cocoa'butter'for'the'occlusion'and'barrier'protection,'shea'butter'for'increased'slip'and'glide,'or'mango'butter'for'dryness.'I'think'I'll'use'some'mango'butter'for'the'simple'reason'that'I'just'bought'a'ton'of'it'and'want'to'use'it,'plus'it'will'be'a'little'more'astringent.'I'm'including'allantoin'as'my'barrier'ingredient'so'I'can'forego'cocoa'butter,'and'I'want'it'a'little'less'greasy'than'shea'butter'might'offer.''

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Then'we'come'to'thickeners.'Since'I'want'this'to'be'for'my'body,'light'and'glidy,'I'm'going'with'cetyl'alcohol.'(Stearic'acid'tends'to'form'a'cream'type'product'with'less'slip'and'glide.'As'Sarah'notes,'"Cetyl'is'slick'and'stearic'is'thick!")''Finally,'I'm'going'to'throw'in'2%'IPM'because'I'like'the'way'it'reduces'greasiness'without'feeling'powdery'dry.''You'need'to'make'a'decision'here.'If'you're'including'2%'IPM'do'you'reduce'the'amount'of'liquid'oil'from'15%'to'13%'or'do'you'add'the'IPM'without'taking'any'of'the'oils'out?'If'you'include'2%'IPM'and'remove'the'2%'from'the'oils,'then'you'don't'need'to'do'anything.'The'oil'phase'is'same'the'percentage'of'the'lotion'it'was'before','29%','so'your'emulsifier'amount'remains'the'same.'(We'll'deal'with'the'idea'of'adding'to'the'oil'phase'later'on'in'the'e,book,'so'let's'go'with'the'idea'that'you're'substituting'2%'IPM'for'another'oil'today.)''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'(rice'bran'oil'+'IPM'='15%'oils)'13%'rice'bran'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'emulsifier''Let's'take'a'look'at'the'cool'down'phase.'Right'now'we'have'1.5%'to'2%'in'our'cool'down'phase','1%'for'fragrance'or'essential'oil'and'0.5%'for'preservative.'If'you'are'using'a'different'preservative'at'a'different'amount,'you'll'have'to'remove'that'amount'from'your'water'amount.'And'if'we'add'a'few'things'like'2%'panthenol'or'an'extract'at'0.5%,'we'll'have'to'remove'that'amount'from'the'water'phase'as'well.''Let's'say'I'm'going'to'add'2%'panthenol'and'0.5%'chamomile'extract'to'my'lotion.'This'means'I'need'to'remove'2.5%'from'the'water'phase'to'compensate'for'the'addition'of'these'ingredients.'This'means'my'water'goes'from'56%'to'53.5%'to'make'up'for'the'extra'2.5%'in'the'water'phase.''And'we're'done'the'lotion!''SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION'(IPM'INCLUDED'IN'OIL'PHASE)'HEATED'WATER'PHASE'


53.5%'water'(reduced'by'2.5%'for'the'increased'cool'down'phase)'10%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'13%'rice'bran'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'emulsifier''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol'0.5%'chamomile'extract''Follow'the'general'lotion'making'instructions'for'this'product,'found'on'page'Error!,Bookmark,not,defined..'

'

GREAT,QUESTION!,IS,CHAMOMILE’S,EXPENSE,JUSTIFIED?,,Patrick%asked:%Do%you%really%think%chamomile%does%anything%real%and%tactile%enough%to%justify%its%crazy%expense?%I%like%the%smell,%but%I%almost%need%a%second%job%to%buy%it!%

I'm'using'powdered'chamomile'extract,'not'an'essential'oil,'and'it'costs'about'$2.85'(plus'12%'tax'for'a'total'of'$3.19.'So'adding'0.5'grams'to'a'lotion'costs'about'16'cents'or'so'(and'if'you'buy'it'in'slightly'larger'quantities,'it's'about'10'cents'to'add'it).'I'can't'afford'the'essential'oil','I'buy'too'many'expensive'supplies'as'it'is!','and'I'like'the'water'soluble'ingredients'chamomile'contains'(the'polyphenols,'flavonoids,'and'water'soluble'vitamins).'''I'think'it’s'worth'it,'but'I'choose'to'use'the'extract'or'hydrosol'rather'than'the'essential'oil'due'to'the'cost'and'the'smell.'(I'really'can’t'stand'the'smell'of'chamomile'essential'


oil!)'Keep'this'in'mind'if'there’s'a'great'ingredient'that'has'some'wonderful'effects'that'comes'with'a'weird'smell'you'don’t'like'or'a'huge'cost!'Consider'using'the'hydrosol'or'a'powdered'or'liquid'extract'to'get'those'qualities'into'your'product!'

MODIFYING,A,BASIC,LOTION:,MODIFYING,THE,WATER,PHASE,There'are'so'many'different'ways'to'reach'the'goals'I'set'out'for'the'previous'recipe,'and'it'all'depends'on'your'preferred'and'available'ingredients'and'your'preferred'skin'feel.'Let's'consider'our'question'about'goals'again,'but'tweak'it'a'little'for'a'different'skin'feel...''What'kind'of'product'do'I'want'to'make?'Is'it'a'moisturizer,'body'milk,'lotion,'cream,'or'butter?'For'which'body'part'is'this'intended?'What'kind'of'skin'feel'do'I'want?'Do'I'have'a'

specific'outcome'in'mind?'For'what'skin'type'am'I'making'this?''I'think'I'd'like'to'make'a'lighter'feeling'body'lotion'for'the'upcoming'spring'months'with'some'occlusive'ingredients'to'protect'me'from'the'elements'and'some'nice'humectants.'I'would'like'a'light'to'medium'skin'feel'with'some'glide.'I'hate'greasiness'in'my'lotions,'and'I'have'dry'skin.'''If'you'have'dry'skin,'you'might'want'to'consider'increasing'the'humectants'in'your'heated'water'phase.'Although'glycerin'is'nice,'adding'a'second'humectant'to'the'mix'will'increase'the'moisture'that'is'drawn'to'your'skin'from'the'atmosphere.'So'let's'say'you'like'sodium'lactate.'We'll'want'to'use'at'it'2.5%'to'avoid'sun'sensitivity,'so'let's'add'that'to'the'water'phase.'Just'remove'2.5%'from'the'water'amount'to'compensate'for'the'increase'in'sodium'lactate.''''And'let's'say'you'hate'aloe'vera'but'love'hydrosols'in'your'product.'Consider'using'lavender'or'another'hydrosol'in'place'of'the'aloe'vera.'No'need'to'compensate'if'you're'leaving'it'at'10%.'But'what'if'you'like'aloe'vera'and'lavender'hydrosol,'then'remove'10%'from'the'water'amount'to'make'up'for'the'new'addition.'''What'about'something'like'hydrolyzed'silk'protein?'It's'great'for'dry'skin'and'offers'film'forming'and'moisturizing.'I'think'I'll'use'2%'in'the'heated'water'phase,'so'I'need'to'decrease'the'water'amount'by'another'2%.''


'So'what'about'the'heated'oil'phase?'Well,'you'll'want'to'choose'less'greasy'oils'and'butters.'Mango'butter'is'a'nice,'

less'greasy'butter,'so'it's'a'good'choice,'or'you'could'substitute'something'like'babassu'oil,'which'feels'less'greasy'as'well.'And'you'll'want'to'choose'less'greasy'oils.'Again,'hazelnut'(light),'macadamia'nut'(light'to'medium),'avocado'oil'(medium'to'heavy),'and'camellia'seed'oil'(light)'are'good'choices'with'long'shelf'lives.'Consider'grapeseed'oil'only'if'you're'adding'an'anti,oxidant'and'plan'to'use'it'within'3'months'or'less!'(Click'here'for'your'emollient'choices'and'charts.)'I'think'I'll'go'with'hazelnut'oil'as'it's'light'and'has'some'nice'levels'of'Vitamin'E'and'phytostersols'as'well'as'a'little'linoleic'acid.'I'll'leave'the'cetyl'alcohol'as'I'want'some'thickening'in'there'and'I'll'leave'the'IPM'because'I'm'going'for'a'drier'lotion.'(If'you'want'to'leave'out'the'IPM,'increase'the'oils'or'butters'by'2%).'''For'the'emulsifier,'when'I'want'less'greasy'I'go'with'BTMS,50'instead'of'Polawax.'It'isn't'subject'to'the'25%'rule,'but'I'm'going'to'leave'it'at'the'6%'emulsifier'amount'because'it'will'offer'nice'conditioning'and'thickening'to'the'product.'Your'product'will'be'thicker'if'you'use'BTMS,50'over'Polawax'or'e,wax.'And'if'you'use'another'emulsifier,'you'll'get'a'different'skin'feel.'''For'the'cool'down'phase,'I'want'to'include'the'panthenol,'preservative,'and'fragrance'or'essential'oil.'What'about'the'extract?'I'could'keep'it'the'same,'leave'it'out,'or'choose'another'one.'I'think'I'm'going'to'leave'out'the'extract'as'I'don't'have'many'around'the'house'specifically'for'dry'skin.'So'I'll'increase'my'water'amount'by'0.5%'to'compensate'for'the'loss'of'the'extract.'''

SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&[&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39.5%'water'(reduced'by'2.5%'for'the'sodium'lactate,'10%'for'the'lavender'hydrosol,'2%'for'the'silk;'increased'by'0.5%'to'compensate'for'the'removal'of'the'extract)'10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'hydrosol'2.5%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'0.5%'allantoin'


'HEATED'OIL'PHASE'13%'hazelnut'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'or'babassu'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol''That'wasn't'so'hard,'was'it?'As'you'can'see,'any'changes'in'your'lotion'will'come'out'of'the'amount'we've'allotted'for'water.'If'we'increase'the'cool'down'phase,'decrease'the'water'amount.'If'we'decrease'the'cool'down'phase,'increase'your'water'amount.'And'if'we'increase'or'decrease'the'heated'oil'phase,'we'decrease'the'water'amount...with'a'few'other'tweaks.'''

GREAT,QUESTION!,USING,THICKENERS,WITH,BTMS[50,Tara'asked:'I%always%use%BTMS?50%because%it%is%simpler.%Do%you%find%that%since%it%contains%cetyl%alcohol,%adding%any%extra%thickeners%makes%it%way%

to%darn%thick??'

BTMS,50'is'INCI:'Behentrimonium'methosulfate'(and)'cetyl'alcohol'(and)'butylene'glycol,'which'means'that'it'already'contains'cetyl'alcohol'and'at'least'50%'behentrimonium'methosulfate.'I’m'guessing'the'cetyl'alcohol'makes'up'no'more'than'50%'of'the'BTMS,50'compound.'If'there’s'50%'BTMS,'there'can'only'be'maximum'50%'cetyl'alcohol,'but'we'have'the'propylene'glycol'in'the'mix,'so'we’re'probably'lucky'to'get'40%'cetyl'alcohol.'I'like'to'add'cetyl'alcohol'as'I'like'to'add'the'extra'cetyl'alcohol'because'it'does'act'as'an'emollient'and'boosts'the'conditioning'power'of'the'BTMS,50.'But'it'depends'on'which'kind'of'product'and'skin'feel'you'want.'For'a'light'lotion,'leave'out'the'cetyl'alcohol;'for'a'body'butter,'I'd'put'it'in'because'I’m'looking'for'a'thicker'product.'But'it's'all'about'personal'preference,'so'try'it'and'see'what'you'like!''


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MODIFYING,A,BASIC,LOTION:,MODIFYING,THE,OIL,PHASE,While'making'our'basic'lotion,'we'had'a'decision'to'make.'Do'we'substitute'2%'IPM'for'one'of'the'oils'or'do'we'add'it'to'the'oil'phase'as'an'extra'2%?'We'addressed'the'substitution'issue'in'the'previous'section,'so'let's'take'a'look'at'increasing'your'oil'

phase.''''If'you'include'2%'IPM'and'add'it'to'the'oils,'you'need'to'increase'the'emulsifier'by'0.5%'(if'you're'using'Polawax'or'e,wax).'Which'means'you'need'to'remove'2.5%'from'the'water'phase'(2%'for'the'IPM,'0.5%'for'the'increased'emulsifier).'THIS,IS,VITAL!'Every'change'you'make'to'your'oil'phase'comes'out'of'the'water'phase'in'exactly'the'same'amount.'''HEATED'WATER'PHASE','notice'the'reduction'of'the'water'amount'from'67.5%'to'65%'to'compensate'for'the'increased'oil'and'emulsifier'51.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE','IPM'added'at'2%,'so'emulsifier'is'altered'upwards'by'0.5%''15%'rice'bran'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6.5%'emulsifier''If'we'add'2.5%'to'the'oil'phase,'we'remove'2.5%'from'the'water'phase.'If'we'add'5%'to'the'cool'down'phase,'we'remove'5%'from'the'water'phase.'I'can’t'stress'this'enough'–'every,change,we,make,in,our,lotion,comes,out,of,the,water,phase!''


''What'if'you'want'to'add'more'to'the'water'phase'to'make'it'thinner?'I'd'suggest'starting'with'a'base'recipe'that'contains'more'water.'Or'you'could'modify'it'without'increasing'the'water'phase'but'leaving'out'your'thickener'(like'stearic'acid'or'cetyl'alcohol),'taking'out'the'heavier'butters'and'replacing'them'with'oils,'or'using'lighter'oils.'Or'you'could'modify'the'product'to'decrease'the'oil'phase'and'increase'the'water'phase.'''

SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&(IPM&EXTRA)&&HEATED'WATER'PHASE','notice'the'reduction'of'the'water'amount'51.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'rice'bran'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6.5%'emulsifier''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol''

SIDE,NOTE,ON,BARRIER,INGREDIENTS…,Barrier'ingredients'offer'protection'from'transepidermal,water,loss'(TEWL),'the'“measurement'of'the'quantity'of'water'that'passes'from'inside'a'body'through'the'epidermal'layer'–'skin'–'to'the'surrounding'atmosphere'via'diffusion'and'evaporation'processes”'(Wikipedia).'We'want'to'trap'in'that'water'and'prevent'it'from'evaporating'from'our'skin,'and'protect'our'skin'from'further'damage'while'it'repairs'itself'from'physical'assaults'of'the'day.''


There'are'three'barrier'ingredients'officially'recognized'by'the'FDA'–'cocoa'butter,'dimethicone,'and'allantoin.'Our'emollients'–'oils,'butters,'and'esters'–'will'help'prevent'officially'recognized'barrier'ingredients'''Cocoa,'shea,'mango,'and'other'butters'are'great'barrier'

ingredients,'protecting'your'skin'from'TEWL'and'from'further'damage'from'the'outside'world.'Each'butter'has'its'own'benefits,'but'the'key'is'that'they'stay'on'the'skin.'''Allantoin'is'another'great'barrier'ingredient'found'in'aloe'vera'and'comfrey'oil.'You'can'also'buy'this'in'a'white'powder'you'can'add'to'your'products.'It'can'help'increase'the'water'content'of'the'stratum'corneum'(and'this'is'always'a'good'thing!)'It'can'promote'cell'proliferation'and'wound'healing.'It's'soothing'to'skin'and'is'an'anti,irritant.'Allantoin'can'be'added'at'up'to'2%'in'the'heated'or'cooling'phases'of'your'product.'Remember'that'it’s'water'soluble,'so'you'can’t'add'it'to'anything'that'doesn’t'have'a'water'phase!'(I'know'there’s'some'controversy'about'when'to'add'allantoin.'I'add'it'to'the'heated'water'phase,'some'add'it'to'the'cool'down'phase.'Add'to'whichever'phase'you'like,'but'remember'to'ensure'it'dissolves'well'to'avoid'those'nasty'shards!'''Dimethicone'is'another'recognized'barrier'ingredient.'It's'a'silicone'that'offers'a'soft,'silky'feel'to'your'products.'It'is'oil'soluble,'so'it's'not'suitable'for'things'like'toners'or'sprays,'but'you'can'use'it'in'small'quantities'in'surfactant'systems'like'shampoos.'You'can'get'water'soluble'dimethicone'for'things'like'toners!'Use'this'at'up'to'5%'(although'I'prefer'no'more'than'3%)'in'your'creations'to'for'both'the'silky'feeling'and'the'occlusion'properties.''

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MODIFYING,A,BASIC,LOTION:,MODIFYING,YOUR,OIL,PHASE,FURTHER,What'if'you'want'to'increase'your'oil'phase'further?'You'have'two'choices','you'can'choose'another'recipe'that'has'a'higher'oil'phase'and'a'lower'water'phase'or'you'can'modify'your'recipe'to'increase'the'oils'and'emulsifier.''Let's'keep'modifying'our'original'recipe'to'see'how'we'can'modify'the'oil'phase'further…''SPRING,TIME,BODY,LOTION,[,LESS,GREASY,FOR,DRY,SKIN,HEATED'WATER'PHASE'

39.5%'water''10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'hydrosol'2.5%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'13%'hazelnut'oil'2%'IPM'5%'mango'butter'or'babassu'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol''...and'we'decide'we'need'more'emollients'in'the'mix,'as'well'as'some'silicones'in'the'cool'down'phase.'How'can'we'go'about'doing'that?'''So'let's'say'I'really'like'mango'butter'and'want'to'increase'it'in'this'lotion'to'10%.'I'could'reduce'the'oils'to'8%'and'make'a'more'mango'buttery'lotion.'But'let's'say'I'like'my'oils'


and'don't'want'to'decrease'them','if'I'want'to'stay'with'15%'oils'and'IPM'and'10%'mango'butter,'then'I'have'to'recalculate'my'emulsifier'amount.''So'let's'say'I'have'10%'mango'butter,'13%'oils,'2%'IPM,'and'3%'cetyl'alcohol.'I'have'an'oil'phase'of'28%.'If'I'go'with'the'rule'of'thumb'for'Polawax,'this'means'I'need'to'have'7%'emulsifier'in'this'product'(25%'of'the'oil'phase,'so'7%).'Add'28%'to'7%'and'you'have'35%'for'our'heated'oil'phase.'This'means'I'need'to'reduce'my'water'by'6%'(5%'for'the'increase'in'mango'butter'and'1%'for'the'increase'in'emulsifier).'This'will'produce'a'thicker'product'than'our'previous'lotions.'''

SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&[&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN&(increased&mango&butter&&&emulsifier)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'33.5%'water'(reduced'by'6%)''10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'hydrosol'2.5%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'13%'hazelnut'oil'2%'IPM'10%'mango'butter'or'babassu'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'7%'Polawax''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol''And'let's'say'you'really'like'the'way'cyclomethicone'feels'on'your'skin','it'increases'slip'and'glide'and'offers'a'feeling'of'powdery'dryness','and'want'to'include'that'at'2%'in'your'cool'down'phase.'We'need'to'increase'the'emulsifier'by'0.5%'(1/4'of'2%)'in'our'heated'oil'phase,'and'reduce'our'water'amount'by'2.5%'(2%'for'the'cyclomethicone,'


0.5%'for'the'increase'in'emulsifier).'Even'though'it's'in'the'cool'down'phase,'it'is'still'an'oil'soluble'ingredient'and'needs'to'be'included'in'our'emulsification'amount.''

SPRING&TIME&BODY&LOTION&[&LESS&GREASY&FOR&DRY&SKIN&(increased&mango&butter,&emulsifier,&and&cyclomethicone)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'31%'water'(reduced'by'8.5%)''10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'hydrosol'2.5%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'13%'hazelnut'oil'2%'IPM'10%'mango'butter'or'babassu'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'7%'Polawax''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'0.5%'preservative'2%'panthenol'2%'cyclomethicone''You'll'notice'with'all'our'tweaking'we're'reducing'the'water'amount'every'time.'Which'means'we're'now'making'a'60%'water'lotion'(well,'59%)'instead'of'a'70%'lotion.'Which'is'on'par'with'a'body'butter'or'cream'type'lotion'instead'of'a'liquidy'type'lotion.'(You'can'get'60%'water'liquidy'type'lotions,'but'they'generally'have'fewer'thickeners'and'butters.)'This'is'why'I'say'you'can'choose'another'recipe'or'just'keep'tweaking'the'same'one.'I'find'the'70%'basic'lotion'recipe'is'a'great'place'to'start,'but'I'generally'end'up'in'a'very'different'place'at'the'end!'''


SOME,FURTHER,IDEAS,FOR,TWEAKING,THE,70%,WATER,LOTIONS,With'a'70%'lotion,'we'can'use'ingredients'like'stearic'acid,'beeswax,'and'butters'to'make'it'a'very'thick'lotion'or'leave'those'out'and'use'lighter'oils'to'make'it'a'thinner'lotion.'So'let's'say'you'want'to'make'a'hand'lotion.'Let's'take'a'look'at'a'tweaking'this'product'to'suit'your'skin'feel'preferences!''Version,#1:,Very,occlusive,,greasy,feeling,,thick.,,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase,'5%'cocoa'butter'in'the'oil'phase,'and'2%'dimethicone'in'the'cool'down'phase.'I'd'use'3%'stearic'acid'as'my'thickener'to'make'it'more'like'a'cream'consistency,'and'2%'beeswax'to'make'it'longer'lasting'after'washing.'So'this'leaves'us'with'11%'oils'(less'2%'for'the'dimethicone).'I'think'I'll'use'a'medium'weight'oil'here'like'sesame'seed'or'rice'bran'oil,'both'of'which'have'great'levels'of'linoleic'acid'and'phytosterols'at'11%.'(I'can'combine'them'in'any'ratio'to'make'this'11%'or'just'use'one'of'them.)''Version,#2:,Occlusive,,less,greasy,feeling,,thick.,,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase,'5%'mango'butter'in'the'oil'phase,'and'2%'dimethicone'in'the'cool'down'phase.'I'd'use'3%'stearic'acid'as'my'thickener'and'2%'beeswax.'I'd'use'2%'IPM,'and'a'less'greasy'feeling'oil'like'macadamia'nut'or'hazelnut'at'9%.'You'could'change'your'emulsifier'from'emulsifying'wax'to'Incroquat'BTMS,50'for'a'drier'feeling'product.'You'could'use'2%'cyclomethicone'in'the'cool'down'phase'(remove'2%'from'the'oil'amount)'to'create'a'product'with'a'more'powdery'skin'feel.''Version,#3:,Occlusive,,less,greasy,feeling,,thinner.,,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase,'5%'mango'butter'in'the'oil'phase,'and'2%'dimethicone'in'the'cool'down'phase.'I'd'use'3%'cetyl'alcohol'as'my'thickener'and'2%'beeswax.'I'd'use'2%'IPM,'and'an'ester'like'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'or'ethylhexyl'palmitate'at'11%.'You'could'also'use'2%'cyclomethicone'here,'which'means'you'need'to'reduce'your'ester'to'9%.'Again,'you'can'switch'your'emulsifier'to'BTMS,50'for'an'even'drier'version.''Version,#4:,Minimally,processed,version,[,greasier,version,,a,little,thicker,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase'and'5%'cocoa'butter'in'the'oil'phase.'I'd'use'2%'beeswax'to'make'it'more'tenacious,'and'16%'rice'bran,'sesame'seed,'or'soybean'oils'(for'the'nice'levels'of'linoleic'acid,'although'any'oil'will'work'here).'I'm'not'sure'if'cetyl'alcohol'or'stearic'acid'count'as'natural'ingredients,'so'it's'up'to'you'if'you'want'to'use'it.'


Use'3%'stearic'to'make'a'thicker'lotion,'3%'cetyl'alcohol'to'make'a'thicker'and'glidy'lotion.''Version,#5:,Minimally,processed,version,[,less,greasy,,less,occlusive,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase'and'5%'mango'butter'in'the'oil'phase.'I'd'use'2%'beeswax'to'make'it'more'tenacious,'and'16%'hazelnut,'macadamia'nut,'or'avocado'oil'in'the'oil'phase.''Version,#6:,Occlusive,,less,greasy,,no,liquid,emollients,,I'd'use'0.5%'allantoin'in'the'water'phase'and'5%'cocoa'butter'in'oil'phase.'I'd'use'2%'beeswax'to'make'it'more'tenacious'and'3%'cetyl'alcohol'as'a'thickener'and'emollient.'I'm'going'to'use'5%'mango'butter'and'5%'shea'butter'to'make'this'a'very'thick'product,'and'I'm'throwing'in'3%'cetearyl'alcohol'to'make'this'a'more'waxy'feeling'product.'This'will'be'a'very'thick'lotion'with'all'these'butters,'and'very'occlusive.''For'the'water'phase'of'a'hand'lotion,'I'like'to'include'a'humectant','glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA,'honeyquat,'all'of'which'work'well,'although'I'find'glycerin'can'get'a'bit'sticky,'so'if'you'want'something'really'hygroscopic,'use'about'2%'to'3%'glycerin'along'with'another'humectant.'I'like'to'include'aloe'vera'and'a'hydrosol,'and'some'protein'along'with'panthenol.''So'let's'take'a'look'at'what'version'#1'could'look'like'with'a'modified'water'phase'as'well.''VERSION,#1,HAND,LOTION:,VERY,OCCLUSIVE,,THICK,,GREASY,HEATED'WATER'PHASE'40%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'hydrosol'2.5%'sodium'lactate'2.5%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'11%'rice'bran'oil'5%'cocoa'butter'


3%'stearic'acid'2%'beeswax'6%'emulsifier'(BTMS'or'Polawax)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'preservative'(I'use'liquid'Germall'Plus)'2%'dimethicone'2%'panthenol''


MODIFYING,OUR,LOTIONS,INTO,CREAMS,I'find'one'of'the'quickest'ways'to'turn'a'lotion'into'a'cream'is'to'substitute'stearic'acid'for'cetyl'alcohol.'Fatty'acids'tend'to'increase'the'thickness'of'our'products'better'than'the'fatty'alcohols,'although'you'will'experience'a'decrease'in'the'slip'and'glide'of'the'product'and'might'even'get'some'whitening'of'the'product'called'the'"soaping'effect".'(it'will'evaporate'in'time,'don't'worry…see'the'next'section'for'more'information).'

'As'a'note,'you'can'make'cream'type'lotions'with'cetyl'alcohol','body'butters'are'a'great'example'of'creams'with'cetyl'alcohol','but'stearic'acid'will'make'a'thicker'cream'lotion'at'3%.''Another'quick'way'to'create'a'cream'is'to'use'a'ton'of'butters'and'few'oils.'If'we'look'at'our'basic'recipe,'using'15%'butter'to'5%'oil'will'create'more'of'a'body'butter'product'than'a'lotion.'Using'cocoa'butter'or'a'cocoa'butter'replacement'(like'kokum'butter)'will'create'a'thicker'product'than'using'something'like'shea'butter'or'babassu'oil.''We'can'use'the'basic'recipe'and'add'stearic'acid'instead'of'cetyl'alcohol'and'use'more'butters'than'oils'to'get'a'cream'type'product.'Or'we'can'start'with'a'60%'water'recipe'or'use'the'recipe'we'modified'into'a'60%'recipe'yesterday'to'make'a'cream.''Always'start'with'your'questions'about'the'product.'What,kind,of,product,do,I,want,to,make?,Is,it,a,moisturizer,,body,milk,,lotion,,cream,,or,butter?,For,which,body,part,is,this,intended?,What,kind,of,skin,feel,do,I,want?,Do,I,have,a,specific,outcome,in,mind?,For,what,skin,type,am,I,making,this?,'So'let's'say'I'want'to'make'a'foot'cream'for'my'normal'type'skin'for'the'winter'months.'I'want'something'very'thick'and'moisturizing'and'I'don't'really'care'if'it's'greasy'because'I'plan'to'wear'socks.'I'want'something'that'feels'very'luxurious'and'will'stay'on'my'skin'until'the'morning.'And'I'don't'really'care'that'much'about'slip'and'glide'except'for'the'few'moments'when'I'rub'it'on'at'night.''

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If'we'look'at'these'goals,'I'immediately'think'about'making'thicker'cream'with'stearic'acid.'So'I'turn'to'my'60%'water'recipe'with'stearic'acid.'(And'yes,'I'realize'this'is'technically'a'63%'water'recipe...)''

RECIPE&FOR&A&THICKER&CREAM&&WATER'PHASE'(63%'of'the'recipe)'60%'water'3%'glycerin''OIL'PHASE''(35%'of'the'recipe)'15%'oils'10%'butters'7%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'(1.5%','2.0%'of'the'recipe)'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''I'could'just'make'this'recipe'as'it'is'and'add'some'peppermint'or'spearmint'essential'oils'as'my'fragrance'component,'but'I'want'more'humectants','I'like'lots'on'my'feet','and'I'want'to'make'some'good'decisions'about'my'oils.''For'the'water'phase,'I'want'more'humectants.'Sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'at'3%'or'higher'can'be'exfoliating,'and'that's'always'a'bonus'for'feet!'I'm'not'worried'about'being'sun'sensitive'as'I'plan'to'wear'this'at'night'with'socks,'so'I'can'include'it'at'3%'or'higher'to'get'both'the'hygroscopic'benefits'and'the'exfoliation.'So'let's'go'with'sodium'lactate'at'3%.'(Plus'sodium'lactate'isn't'an'expensive'ingredient!)'Remove'3%'from'the'water'amount'to'compensate'for'this'inclusion.''I'want'to'include'some'aloe'vera'for'the'film'forming'and'soothing'qualities,'so'let's'add'that'at'10%.'(Now'we're'taking'13%'out'of'the'water'phase).'Do'I'want'a'hydrosol'here?'Sure,'why'not!'Feet'always'need'soothing!'I'think'I'll'include'some'peppermint'hydrosol'as'it'increases'circulation'and'the'feeling'of'cooling.'I'll'include'that'at'10%!'(So'remove'23%'from'the'water'amount.)''


I'want'to'include'some'panthenol'in'my'cool'down'phase,'so'I'll'remove'2%'from'the'water'phase'(now'we're'at'25%'removed'from'the'water'amount).''MODIFIED'WATER'PHASE'35%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'peppermint'hydrosol'3%'glycerin'3%'sodium'lactate''MODIFIED'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'panthenol'0.5%'preservative'1%'essential'oils''For'my'oil'phase,'I'think'I'll'keep'it'relatively'the'same,'so'I'just'need'to'choose'my'oils.'I'like'soybean'oil'in'a'product'like'this','it's'inexpensive,'contains'a'ton'of'Vitamin'E'and'phytosterols,'and'it's'got'linoleic'acid,'which'is'great'for'increasing'skin's'barrier'repair'abilities'and'reducing'transepidermal'water'loss.'For'the'butters,'I'could'go'with'anything'I'want,'but'I'find'cocoa'butter'to'be'a'good'choice'for'a'foot'cream'because'it'stays'on'your'skin'for'quite'some'time'and'it'acts'as'a'barrier'protecting'product.'(Remember,'we're'learning'to'formulate,'so'use'any'butter'you'like!)'''I'want'some'dimethicone'in'here'as'a'barrier'as'well,'which'will'reduce'the'soaping'effect'from'the'product.'So'let's'add'that'at'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase,'and'remove'2%'from'the'oils'amount'to'compensate'for'its'addition'(and'I'don't'have'recalculate'my'emulsifier'if'the'dimethicone'is'in'place'of'something'else!)'''Finally,'I'want'to'include'some'menthol'in'the'mix.'Menthol'is'oil'soluble,'so'I'll'heat'the'crystals'in'the'heated'oil'phase.'I'will'remove'the'1%'essential'oils'from'the'cool'down'phase'as'I'really'don't'need'them,'and'I'll'remove'3%'from'the'oils'to'make'up'for'it.''So'this'means'I've'added'2%'dimethicone'and'3%'menthol'to'the'oil'phase,'and'I'll'compensate'here'by'removing'5%'from'the'15%'oils'amount.'So'I'll'use'10%'soy'bean'oil'instead'of'15%.'I'm'not'removing'anything'from'the'water'phase'at'this'time''MODIFIED'HEATED'OIL'PHASE'


3%'menthol'10%'soybean'oil'10%'cocoa'butter'7%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid''MODIFIED'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'panthenol'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'preservative''

So'what'about'the'cool'down'phase?'I've'already'compensated'for'the'inclusion'of'panthenol'and'dimethicone.'Do'I'want'to'include'anything'else?'Not'really'at'this'point.'I've'covered'all'the'bases','humectants,'extracts'or'hydrosols,'silicones,'and'everything'else','so'I'think'my'recipe'is'done!'Let's'take'a'look'at'it!'''

FOOT&CREAM&WITH&MENTHOL&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'35%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'peppermint'hydrosol'

3%'glycerin'3%'sodium'lactate''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'3%'menthol'10%'soybean'oil'10%'cocoa'butter'7%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'panthenol'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'preservative'


'So'there'we'have'it.'Go'back'and'compare'this'to'the'last'modification'of'the'spring'time'lotion:'There’s'not'much'difference,'which'shows'you'that'we'could'have'started'with'a'70%'water'recipe'and'we'might'have'ended'up'with'a'similar'recipe'to'this'one!''''

GREAT,QUESTION!,Which,version,of,emulsifying,wax,are,you,using?,Which'version'of'Polawax'do'you'use?'There'is'only'one,'and'that's'Polawax'by'Croda.'Your'supplier'might'call'it'something'else,'but'it'is'NOT'the'same'as'e,wax'or'emulsifying'wax.'Yes,'the'INCI'name'might'be'Emulsifying'Wax'NF'and'it'is'an'emulsifying'wax'in'the'generic'sense,'but'it'is'a'proprietary'blend'of'ingredients'and'we'don't'know'exactly'what'is'in'it!'If'a'supplier'is'carrying'Polawax,'they'will'let'you'know'by'calling'it'Polawax.'(They'd'be'crazy'not'to'as'they'can'charge'more'for'it'than'emulsifying'wax'NF).''So'Polawax'is'an'emulsifying'wax'and'its'INCI'is'emulsifying'wax'NF,'but'it'is'not'the'same'as'emulsifying'wax'as'suppliers'don't'tend'to'use'the'generic'term'to'refer'to'Polawax.'''What'is'the'emulsifying'wax'we'see'in'our'suppliers''shops?'It'can'be'many'things,'but'it's'almost'always'a'mix'of'at'least'one'low'HLB'emulsfier'and'one'high'HLB'emulsifier.'What'you'see'at'one'supplier'as'emulsifying'wax'isn't'necessarily'what'you'll'find'at'another'supplier.''New'Directions'Aromatics''self,emulsifying'wax'(INCI:'Cetearyl'Alcohol'(and)'Sodium'

Cetearyl'Sulfate),'Ingredients'to'Die'For's'emulsifying'wax'is'actually'Lipowax'PA'(INCI:'Emulsifying'wax'NF),'the'Personal'Formulator's'emulsifying'wax'has'an'INCI'of''Cetearyl'Alcohol'(and)'Polysorbate'60,''and'Gracefruit's'emulsifying'wax'is'Polawax.'These'are'all'very'different'products.'One'might'be'a'flake,'while'another'is'a'pastille,'and'still'another'is'a'pellet.'(Polawax'comes'in'those'little'white'pastilles'or'flatter'pellet','look'left.)'Odds'are'that'none'of'these'are'the'same'product'and'the'results'you'get'with'one'might'not'be'replicated'with'another.'But'

they'would'all'be'considered'emulsifying'wax.''


If'you're'using'something'other'than'Polawax,'you'might'have'to'adapt'your'recipe'slightly.'Voyageur'Soap'&'Candle'suggests'using'1%'more'e,wax'than'Polawax,'so'you'd'want'to'figure'out'your'recipes'using'the'25%'rule'(figure'out'how'much'oil'you'have,'then'use'25%'of'that'amount'in'Polawax'as'the'emulsifier','and'that'rule'ONLY'applies'to'Polawax),'then'add'another'1%'to'ensure'stability.''Please'note'that'every'emulsifier'is'different.'What'works'for'one'emulsifying'wax','the'25%'rule,'for'instance','doesn't'work'for'another.'BTMS,50'emulsifies'at'much'lower'levels'than'Polawax'and'I've'found'that'using'8%'Ritamulse'SCG'seems'to'be'the'lowest'I'want'to'go,'even'with'a'20%'oil'phase.'If'you'want'to'use'something'called'emulsifying'wax'NF'that'isn't'Polawax,'consult'with'your'supplier'and'find'out'what'she'suggests'as'the'usage'rate,'or'ask'them'for'the'data'bulletin'and'suggested'usage'rates'from'the'company.''I'can't'stress'enough'how'important'it'is'to'learn'your'INCI'names'so'you'know'what'you're'buying'from'your'suppliers.'Click'here'to'learn'more'about'INCI'names.''

THE,SOAPING,EFFECT,(insert,dramatic,chord,here),The'soaping'effect'is'defined'as'"an'undesired'foaming'phenomenon'observed'in'skin'creams'formulated'with'soap'based'emulsifiers".'You'may'have'noticed'this'in'your'lotions','the'white'streaks'when'you'rub'the'lotion'on'and'a'slight'tacky'feeling'on'your'skin.''Why'does'this'happen?'It's'saponification!''The'fatty'acids'in'the'lotion,'combined'with'an'alkaline'ingredient'like'triethanolamine'or'potassium'hydroxide,'create'a'soap,'which'acts'as'the'emulsifier'in'your'lotion.'(A'common'combination'is'triethanolamine'and'stearic'acid.)'If'you're'using'a'stearate'or'oleate'based'emulsifier,'you'are'bringing'the'water'and'oil'together'in'your'lotion'by'creating'a'soap,'which'is'going'to'leave'those'white'streaks'when'you'apply'it.''What'can'stop'the'dreading'soaping'effect?'

Adding'dimethicone'at'2'to'3%.' Using'a'non,ionic'emulsifier'like'Polawax'or'emulsifying'wax'NF.' Using'a'cationic'emulsifier'like'BTMS.'

'

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If'you'don't'want'to'use'silicones,'then'your'only'option'is'to'change'emulsifiers'and'see'if'that'helps.'

,

MODIFYING,CREAMS:,REDUCING,GREASINESS,As'you'can'probably'guess'by'now,'the'previous'foot'cream'can'be'modified'in'so'many'different'ways,'it'would'take'us'weeks'just'to'get'through'those'variations'we'could'make'using'soybean'oil'as'the'main'oil!'It's'all'about'your'preferences'and'supplies','what'you'see'here'reflects'what'I'have'in'my'workshop,'what's'available'to'me'locally,'and'the'skin'feel'I'prefer'in'my'products.''We'will'be'diving'into'this'topic'in'a'lot'more'detail'in'the'section'on'reducing'greasiness,'but'let’s'take'a'moment'to'look'at'a'recipe'we'could'modify!'''So'let's'say'you'want'a'less'greasy'version'of'the'foot'cream'with'menthol:'What'could'you'substitute?'Take'a'look'at'the'recipe'again'and'think'about'it'for'a'moment…''FOOT,CREAM,WITH,MENTHOL,HEATED'WATER'PHASE'35%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'peppermint'hydrosol'3%'glycerin'3%'sodium'lactate''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'3%'menthol'10%'soybean'oil'10%'cocoa'butter'7%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'panthenol'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'preservative''


So'how'could'we'modify'this'product'to'be'less'greasy?'' We'could'alter'our'oils'and'butters.'We'could'choose'esters'or'dry'feeling'oils'like'

hazelnut,'grapeseed,'avocado,'and'macadamia'nut'oil.'' We'could'add'some'IPM'or'IPP'to'the'mix'(usually'2%'but'you'can'go'as'high'as'

5%).'' We'could'use'esters'instead'of'oils.'They'tend'to'feel'drier'than'

our'oils.'' We'could'switch'emulsifiers.'BTMS,50'feels'drier'than'Polawax.'' We'could'add'cyclomethicone'to'the'cool'down'phase'for'a'

powdery'after'feel.'' We'could'try'another'fatty'alcohol','like'cetearyl'alcohol','which'

feels'a'little'waxier.'' We'could'look'at'adding'astringent'ingredients'like'witch'hazel,'

grapeseed'extract,'rosemary'extracts,'alcohol,'and'other'astringent'ingredients'in'the'water'or'cool'down'phases.'(I'wouldn't'go'with'alcohol'as'it'is'very'drying,'but'the'others'are'good'choices.'Plus'witch'hazel'offers'a'cooling'sensation,'which'is'good'for'foot'care'products.)'

'

MODIFYING,60%,WATER,RECIPES,(LOTIONS,AND,CREAMS),,Not'all'lotions'with'60%'water'will'end'up'as'a'body'butter'or'foot'cream.'I'make'what'I'consider'a'very'nice'hand'lotion'with'5%'butters'that'is'quite'thick'and'occlusive,'but'not'too'greasy.'So'how'can'we'modify'the'60%'water'type'recipe'to'be'a'lotion'instead'of'a'thicker'cream?''If'I'go'back'to'my'basic'body'butter'recipe,'it'looks'like'this...''RECIPE,FOR,A,BODY,BUTTER,WATER'PHASE'60%'water'3%'sodium'lactate'or'glycerin''OIL'PHASE'10%'oils'(4%'light,'4%'medium,'2%'heavy,'or'just'10%'of'the'oil'of'your'choice)'15%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'7%'emulsifier*'


3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''And'I'know'this'will'be'far'too'thick'for'my'hands'(although'having'said'that,'I've'been'using'a'shea'body'butter'as'a'hand'lotion'for'the'last'few'weeks'as'I'm'experiencing'a'lot'of'dryness'and'itching'lately,'but'only'at'night'when'I'know'I'won't'be'picking'anything'up'or'touching'my'iPod!),'so'I'need'to'make'some'modifications.'I'm'happy'with'the'cetyl'alcohol'in'there,'but'I'want'to'change'the'oils'and'butter'amount.''If'I'think'about'my'goal','I'want'an'occlusive'hand'lotion'that'isn't'too'greasy'but'stays'on'well','I'know'I'have'to'choose'my'oils'wisely.'I'personally'like'a'slightly'greasier'product,'so'I'll'go'with'my'favourite'combination','fractionated'coconut'and'either'rice'bran'or'olive'oil.'These'offer'a'nice'range'of'skin'feel,'polyphenols,'phytosterols,'and'fatty'acids'for'my'trashed'hands!'Fractionated'coconut'oil'sinks'in'quickly'and'feels'more'like'an'ester'than'an'oil,'that'is'to'say'it'feels'light'and'non,greasy.'I'think'I'll'go'with'rice'bran'oil'as'it'contains'a'ton'of'nice'fatty'acids'and'phytosterols'to'help'with'itching'and'dryness.''But'I'need'to'switch'the'amounts'around.'If'I'go'with'15%'butters,'I'm'going'to'have'a'body'butter'instead'of'a'hand'lotion,'so'I'm'going'with'5%'butters'and'20%'oils'in'this'mix.'I'think'I'll'throw'a'little'IPM'in'there'for'good'measure'(at'2%).''I'could'go'with'any'butter'here','shea'butter'might'feel'too'greasy'for'some'people,'but'I'quite'like'it.'You'could'use'mango'butter'(less'greasy),'cocoa'butter'(occlusive),'and'so'on.'I'm'going'to'use'shea'butter'because'I'like'what'it'brings'to'the'skin'feel'and'the'benefits'to'my'skin.''For'the'emulsifier,'you'can'choose'any'you'like.'I'm'going'with'Polawax'as'I'find'BTMS,50'feels'too'dry'on'my'hands.'But'use'BTMS,50'if'you'want'a'drier'product.''I'think'I'm'going'to'include'2%'beeswax'in'this'product'as'I'find'this'makes'it'more'resistant'to'washing'off,'so'I'have'to'compensate'in'my'oil'phase'for'that.'I'think'I'll'take'out'2%'rice'bran'oil'in'favour'of'the'beeswax.''


So'here's'the'new'oil'phase...''OIL'PHASE'16%'oils'(10%'fractionated'coconut'oil,'6%'rice'bran'oil)'5%'butter'(I'm'going'with'shea'butter)'2%'beeswax'7%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPM''For'my'water'phase,'I'want'to'include'some'allantoin'at'0.5%'to'act'as'a'barrier'ingredient'(remove'0.5%'from'the'water'amount).'I'like'to'include'aloe'vera'as'well'(so'remove'10%'from'the'water'amount','total'10.5%'so'far),'and'I'think'I'd'like'to'include'lavender'or'chamomile'hydrosol'for'the'soothing'properties'(remove'10%,'for'a'total'of'

20.5%).'I'm'going'to'throw'in'a'little'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'at'2%'as'well'for'the'film'forming'properties'(remove'2%'for'a'total'of'22.5%).'I'already'have'2%'humectant'there','should'I'increase'it?'I'll'go'with'the'sodium'lactate'and'add'a'little'more'in'the'cool'down'phase.'''For'the'cool'down'phase,'I'always'include'cyclomethicone'and'dimethicone'at'2%'each'in'hand'lotions'for'the'increased'slip'and'glide'and'slightly'powdery'feeling'and'for'the'barrier'protection.'So'I'need'to'remove'4%'from'the'water'amount'and'increase'my'emulsifier'by'1%'(remove'5%'from'the'water'amount,'not'up'to'27.5%'removed).'I'like'to'include'honeyquat'in'my'hand'lotions'because'I'

like'the'extra'humectant'and'the'skin'conditioning'properties.'I'll'add'it'at'3%'in'the'cool'down'phase'(so'remove'3%'from'the'water'amount,'for'a'total'of'30.5%'of'the'water'amount'removed).'And'I'll'include'panthenol'as'a'film'forming'humectant'that'can'heal'wounds'(not'a'claim,'but'a'hope!).'So'I'need'to'remove'32.5%'water'from'the'water'amount'in'this'recipe.''

HAND&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&FRACTIONATED&COCONUT,&RICE&BRAN,&AND&BEESWAX&WATER'PHASE'26.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'or'chamomile'hydrosol'2%'sodium'lactate'or'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin'


2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'16%'oils'(10%'fractionated'coconut'oil,'6%'rice'bran'oil)'5%'butter'(I'm'going'with'shea'butter)'2%'beeswax'8%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'panthenol'3%'honeyquat'

0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''Ta'da!'There's'your'hand'lotion'recipe.'You'll'notice'we've'reduced'the'water'amount'a'bit,'but'we'make'up'for'it'in'the'cool'down'phase'with'another'5%'water'soluble'ingredients'(panthenol'and'honeyquat),'which'still'keep'this'as'an'oil,in,water'lotion.'''

If'you'find'this'lotion'too'thick,'then'you'can'start'with'the'70%'water'recipe'and'go'through'the'same'process'to'create'a'lighter'feeling'lotion.'You'want'to'tweak'the'oils'and'butters,'add'water'soluble'ingredients,'and'so'on.'You'can'increase'or'decrease'the'greasiness'of'the'product'by'modifying'your'oils'and'butters,'including'or'leaving'out'IPM'and'cyclomethicone,'and'altering'your'emulsifier.''

CREATING,BODY,BUTTERS,There’s'something'decadent'about'the'words'“body'butter”!'It'conjures'up'ideas'of'rich,'thick'creams'that'offer'extreme'moisturizing'where'you'need'it'most!'(If'that’s'the'image'you'have,'then'you’re'right!)'Let’s'take'a'moment'to'review'the'template'recipe.''


RECIPE&FOR&A&BODY&BUTTER&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'60%'water'3%'humectant'of'choice''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'oils'(4%'light,'4%'medium,'2%'heavy,'or'just'10%'of'the'oil'of'your'choice)'15%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'7%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''We'can'classify'this'version'of'a'body'butter'a'60%'water'recipe'that'is'thickened'by'the'inclusion'of'a'lot'of'butter'–'15%'is'a'lot'of'butter!'–'and'possibly'a'fatty'alcohol.'Compare'this'to'a'60%'water'lotion'and'you’ll'notice'the'oil'phase'is'the'same,'but'we'have'more'butters.'Compare'this'to'a'60%'water'cream,'and'you’ll'notice'the'oil'phase'is'the'same'but'we'have'more'butters.'The'difference'between'these'three'products'is'the'viscosity,'and'that'small'change'in'butters'–'a'5%'or'10%'increase'–'is'why'we'call'it'a'body'butter.'You'wouldn’t'have'an'80%'water'sprayable'lotion'called'a'body'butter.''(Okay,'you'might'because'you'can'call'your'lotion'whatever'you'want,'but'it'seems'a'little'misleading!)'You'want'that'rich,'creamy'skin'feel'that'spreads'well'on'your'skin.'For'this'reason,'I'don’t'suggest'fatty'acids'as'your'thickener'of'choice.'Don’t'get'me'wrong'–'I'like'stearic'acid'as'a'thickener,'but'its'dragginess'can'make'a'body'butter'too'hard'to'apply.'(But'don’t'take'my'word'for'it'–'try'it'yourself!)'Fatty'alcohols'with'their'lovely'slip'and'glide'seem'to'be'the'best'choice'for'a'rich,'decadent'cream.'''As'with'any'lotion,'choosing'your'oils'and'butter'tends'to'be'the'most'important'to'place'to'start.'Although'you'can'choose'any'butter'for'a'body'butter,'the'ones'that'spread'easier'that'have'lower'melting'points'–'mango,'shea,'babassu,'murumuru,'mowrah,'coconut'oil'–'are'generally'a'better'choice.'''Remember'to'consider'your'goals'for'this'product'as'your'starting'point.'Let’s'say'I'want'to'create'a'body'butter'to'help'dry'skin'with'the'ravages'of'winter.'We’ll'want'to'include'a'barrier'ingredient'(dimethicone,'cocoa'butter,'or'allantoin),'we’ll'want'to'include'


some'oils'high'in'linoleic'acid'or'GLA'to'help'with'barrier'repair,'and'we’ll'definitely'want'a'humectant.'''For'the'butter,'shea'and'mango'butter'are'both'great'choices.'I'really'like'shea,'but'if'you’re'not'a'greasy'products'kind'of'person,'I’d'make'mango'my'choice'every'time.'Or'use'a'blend'–'say'10%'mango,'5%'shea'butter'or'vice'versa.'We'could'include'a'titch'of'cocoa'butter'in'here'as'our'barrier'ingredient'–'say'5%'cocoa'butter'and'10%'mango'butter'–'which'will'make'it'thicker'than'one'with'mango'butter'alone.'If'you'don’t'want'to'include'cocoa'butter,'try'allantoin'at'0.5%'in'the'heated'phase'or'dimethicone'at'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase.'I’m'going'to'try'cocoa'butter'in'one'version'and'allantoin'in'another,'but'you'could'include'all'three'in'one'product!'''For'our'oils,'we'want'to'use'one,'maybe'two,'really'good'oils'for'chapped'winter'skin.'I'like'soy'bean'oil'–'lots'of'polyphenols,'Vitamin'E,'and'linoleic'acid'–'so'let’s'use'that'in'this'mix.'That'will'make'for'a'greasier'feeling'lotion.'If'you'like'a'less'greasy'lotion,'consider'using'something'like'evening'primrose'or'borage'oil'–'lots'of'GLA'and'dry'feeling'–'or'hempseed'oil'(but'note'the'3'month'shelf'life!)'''I'definitely'need'a'humectant'in'this'product.'I'could'use'any'of'the'ones'on'my'workshop'shelf,'but'I'think'I’ll'go'with'glycerin'in'this'product.'And'I’m'going'throw'in'some'hydrolyzed'protein'–'Phytokeratin'at'2%'might'be'a'nice'change'from'oat'protein'–'and'some'panthenol,'because'I'like'to'include'that'in'a'lot'of'things!'''As'for'my'water'phase,'how'about'a'little'chamomile'hydrosol'to'help'with'reddened'or'angry'skin'at'10%?'And'what'the'heck'–'let’s'throw'in'a'little'lavender'hydrosol'at'10%'as'well.'And'why'not'a'little'aloe'vera?'I'like'what'it'offers'my'skin,'and'it'always'sounds'lovely'on'a'label.'10%'in'the'water'phase'with'you,'aloe'vera!'''Let’s'take'a'look'at'that'recipe.''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&COCOA&BUTTER&(greasier&feeling)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'26%'water'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'lavender'hydrosol'10%'aloe'vera'2%'phytokeratin'3%'glycerin'


'HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'shea'butter'5%'cocoa'butter'7%'emulsifier'(I’m'using'Polawax)'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN&(less&greasy&feeling)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'25.5%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol'10%'aloe'vera'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'2.5%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'evening'primrose'oil'15%'mango'butter'7%'emulsifier'(I’m'using'Polawax)'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'0.5%'chamomile'extract''I’ve'added'my'chamomile'through'an'extract'at'0.5%'in'the'cool'down'phase'and'I’ve'taken'the'hydrosol'out'of'the'water'phase.'I'could'have'included'both,'but'I'chose'not'to'be'all'about'the'chamomile'in'this'product!''


'Let’s'get'a'bit'more'complicated'and'add'a'cationic'polymer'like'honeyquat,'which'offers'two'great'things'in'one!'It’s'a'humectant'and'a'skin'conditioner.'I’ll'add'that'at'3%'in'the'cool'down'phase.'And'let’s'get'some'dimethicone'in'there'at'2%'for'extra'barrier'protection.'And'let’s'take'the'greasiness'down'further'by'adding'some'IPM'at'2%'in'place'of'one'of'the'oils.'''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN,&DIMETHICONE,&AND&HONEYQUAT&(less&greasy&version)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'22.5%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol'10%'aloe'vera'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'2.5%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE1'6%'evening'primrose'oil'2%'IPM'or'IPP'15%'mango'butter'7%'emulsifier'(I’m'using'Polawax)'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'2%'dimethicone'3%'honeyquat'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'0.5%'chamomile'extract''In'this'product,'we’ve'removed'the'additions'from'the'water'phase,'which'you'can'see'is'getting'smaller'and'smaller'with'every'modification.'Let’s'take'a'look'at'adding'something'to'the'oil'phase'and'modifying'the'emulsifier!'''


I'think'I’d'like'to'have'my'10%'evening'primrose'oil'in'this'product'as'well'as'the'2%'IPM'and'the'2%'dimethicone,'which'means'I’m'going'to'have'14%'oils,'15%'butters,'and'3%'fatty'alcohol'for'a'total'of'32%'in'my'oil'phase.'If'we'use'25%'of'this'amount'as'our'emulsifier,'then'we'would'use'8%'emulsifier'in'this'product.'(This'will'increase'the'viscosity!)'So'we'have'a'40%'oil'phase,'and'we'have'to'remove'some'water'from'the'water'phase'to'make'up'for'it.'''Note'the'reduction'in'the'water'phase!''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&THE&WINTER&WITH&ALLANTOIN,&DIMETHICONE,&AND&HONEYQUAT&WITH&A&LARGER&OIL&PHASE&(less&greasy&version)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'16%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol'10%'aloe'vera'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'2.5%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'0.5%'allantoin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'evening'primrose'2%'IPM'or'IPP'

15%'mango'butter'8%'emulsifier'(I’m'using'Polawax)'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'

2%'dimethicone'3%'honeyquat'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'0.5%'chamomile'extract''

MODIFYING,A,BODY,BUTTER,TO,BECOME,A,FOOT,CREAM,We’ve'modified'a'lotion'to'become'a'foot'cream.'Let’s'take'a'look'at'modifying'a'body'butter'to'become'a'foot'cream.''


'As'usual,'I’m'thinking'about'my'best'friend’s'preferences'and'needs'when'I’m'making'this'product'because'she'loves'foot'products.'I'could'have'just'as'easily'chosen'my'mom'for'this'product'because'they'like'the'same'things,'but'she’s'very'shy'and'the'idea'of'me'writing'about'her'on'the'blog'or'in'an'e,book'made'her'do'the'“I’m'uncomfortable”'squirm,'so'I’ll'write'this'about'Wanda'instead.'(I'think'writing'that'my'mom'was'uncomfortable'probably'made'her'really'uncomfortable,'so'I'won’t'tell'her'I'wrote'this'part!)'''Okay,'first'things'first','I'want'that'3%'menthol'in'there,'as'well'as'the'0.5%'each'of'camphor'and'eucalyptus'because'Wanda'loves'those.'Those'will'go'into'the'oil'phase'as'they'are'oil'soluble.'What'else'do'I'want?''Humectants:'Need'more!'So'let's'add'3%'glycerin'to'this'mix.'I'll'2%'sodium'lactate'as'well'because'I'like'it,'and'I'm'not'worried'about'sun'sensitizing'for'a'foot'lotion.''Allantoin:'I'like'it'at'0.5%'for'barrier'protection.''Hydrolyzed'protein:'Again,'I'like'this'at'2%'for'film'forming'and'moisturizing.'I'think'I'll'go'with'silk'amino'acids'since'I'have'some'and'since'they'will'actually'penetrate'skin.''Panthenol:'Love'this'stuff'and'it'works'well'for'damaged'skin.'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase'for'sure!''Water'phase:'I'like'aloe'and'lavender'in'a'foot'care'product.'Since'I'won't'have'a'huge'water'phase,'I'think'I'll'leave'the'water'out'entirely'and'just'go'with'equal'parts'of'these'liquids'instead.'I'can't'decide'on'the'amounts'until'I'see'what'my'oil'phase'is...so'let's'move'on'for'a'moment.''Oils'and'butters:'I've'been'going'with'rice'bran'oil'and'mango'butter,'but'would'something'else'work?'What'about'calendula'oil?'It'has'good'levels'of'linoleic'acid'(27.5%)'but'contains'conjugated'linoleic'acid,'which'is'fantastic'for'reducing'inflammation.'It'is'also'anti,septic,'anti,bacterial,'and'anti,microbial,'with'healing'properties'for'wounds.'It's'a'light'dry'oil,'and'might'be'a'good'addition.'Cranberry'oil'might'be'a'fine'choice'with'the'nice'levels'of'linoleic'acid,'good'Vitamin'E'levels,'and'tons'of'phytosterols'that'will'help'reduce'inflammation,'redness,'and'itching?'Or'pomegranate'oil'with'the'punicic'acid'that'offers'cell'regenerating,'anti,inflammatory,'and'anti,microbial'properties?'It'increases'skin'elasticity,'as'well.'And'the'the'other'


polyphenols'can'help'with'wound'and'burn'healing,'increase'skin'regeneration,'thicken'the'skin,'and'offer'anti,inflammatory'benefits.'Or'sea'buckthorn'oil'with'its'high'levels'of'Vitamin'E,'palmitoleic'acid'that'can'help'with'wounds'and'scratches,'and'high'phytosterol'levels'to'help'with'anti,inflammatory'benefits?''Okay,'let's'back'up'a'second.'Which'butter'should'I'choose?'If'I'go'with'mango'butter,'I'might'consider'using'greasier'oils.'If'I'go'with'shea'butter,'dryness'might'be'a'bonus.'Hmm,'which'one'works'well?'Let's'be'honest...either'are'great'choices.'I'think'I'll'go'with'mango'butter'because'I'do'have'a'ton'of'it'in'the'house'and'it'does'offer'anti,fungicidal'and'anti,microbial'properties.'Although'shea'does'contain'allantoin','bonus!','I'm'adding'it'to'the'water'phase'any'way,'so'let's'choose'mango'butter.''We'have'our'butter.'Does'this'change'our'oil'choice?'Possibly.'Let's'take'a'look'at'some'carrier'oils'we'could'use'first,'then'add'exotic'oils'if'we'feel'like'it.'(I'feel'a'bit'like'John'Cleese'yelling'at'his'students'in'the'"Meaning'of'Life"!'Do'we'need'to'go'stampeding'towards'the'exotic'oils'when'we'have'less'expensive'but'similarly'awesome'carrier'oils'at'our'disposal?)''What'about'avocado'oil?'It's'a'heavier'feeling'dry'oil'with'all'kinds'of'wonderful'phytosterols'to'help'with'moisturizing'and'inflammation,'and'it'is'well'absorbed'by'the'skin.'It'is'a'high'oleic'oil,'so'we'd'want'something'with'linoleic'oil'to'help'with'barrier'protection.'Sunflower'oil'is'a'light,'greasy'feeling'oil'with'high'levels'of'linoleic'acid','this'might'be'a'great'choice','or'soy'bean'oil'with'a'longer'shelf'life'and'nice'levels'of'phytosterols'for'moisturizing'and'anti,inflammation.'(We'could'also'use'all'sesame'or'rice'bran'oil'for'a'nice'balance'of'fatty'acids!)''I'think'I'll'go'with'a'mixture'of'mango'butter,'avocado'oil,'and'soybean'oil'for'this'application.'Let's'leave'the'exotic'oils'for'another'time.'In'the'original'version'of'this'body'butter'we'used'10%'oils'and'15%'butters.'I'really'want'the'linoleic'acid'contribution'of'the'soybean'oil'for'repairing'the'skin's'barrier'protection,'so'I'think'I'll'switch'those'amounts'around'and'use'15%'oils'(10%'soy'bean'oil,'5%'avocado'oil)'and'10%'butters.''Silicones:'2%'dimethicone'offers'good'barrier'protection,'so'that's'going'into'the'cool'down'phase.''


Emulsifiers:'Our'oil'phase'is'now'32%'of'our'recipe','25%'oils'and'butters,'2%'dimethicone,'3%'menthol,'and'1%'essential'oils.'I'want'to'include'some'cetyl'alcohol'in'here'for'the'thickening'and'glide,'so'let's'do'that'at'3%.'Our'total'is'now'35%'oil'phase.'At'1/4'for'Polawax,'we'need'to'use'8.75%'emulsifier.'Round'it'up'to'9%'(I'm'not'a'fan'of'fractions!)'and'we'have'our'emulsifier'amount.''Okay,'so'what'do'we'have'so'far?''Water'phase','7.5%'of'the'recipe'Oil'phase','40.0%'of'the'recipe'Cool'down'phase','5.5%'of'the'recipe'We'll'go'with'30%'aloe'vera,'23%'lavender'hydrosol'for'this'application'and'leave'out'the'water'entirely!'Let’s'make'a'modified'body'butter'for'our'feet!''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&FOR&REALLY&TRASHED&FEET!&WATER'PHASE'30%'aloe'vera'23%'lavender'hydrosol'3%'glycerin'2%'sodium'lactate'0.5%'allantoin'2%'silk'amino'acids''OIL'PHASE'10%'soybean'oil'5%'avocado'oil'10%'mango'butter'3%'menthol'9%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'2%'panthenol'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'0.5%'camphor'essential'oil'0.5%'eucalyptus'essential'oil''


So'we'have'a'lovely'foot'lotion'to'soothe'the'dry'skin'of'my'bestest'friend'made'with'all'kinds'of'weird'and'wonderful'stuff.'How'is'this'different'than'modifying'a'lotion?'Not'much!'If'you'compare'the'idea'of'modifying'a'lotion'and'the'idea'of'modifying'a'body'

butter'or'cream,'we'end'up'at'pretty'much'the'same'point!'And'that’s'interesting!'''

THICKENING,YOUR,PRODUCTS,As'we've'been'working'with'the'70%'water'recipe'and'the'60%'water'recipe,'you'can'see'the'main'difference'between'the'two'tends'to'be'the'amount'of'butters'to'oils.'In'the'70%'recipe,'we'use'more'oils'than'butters;'in'the'60%'recipe,'we'tend'to'use'more'butters'than'oil'(not'in'the'cream'recipe,'but'we'do'in'the'body'butter'recipe).'Butters'contain'stearic'acid,'which'will'thicken'our'products'quite'well,'and'this'is'one'of'the'main'reasons'the'60%'water'creams'are'thicker'than'the'70%'water'lotions.'(The'other'reasons'are'a'lower'water'phase'and'an'increase'in'our'emulsifier,'which'is'also'a'great'thickener.)'

'If'we'made'a'60%'water'recipe'without'butters,'what'would'happen?'We'd'get'something'on'par'with'a'lotion,'thinner,'less'occlusive,'and'more'glidy'(if'you're'using'cetyl'alcohol).'If'we'chose'our'oils'wisely'and'went'with'light'feeling'oils'or'esters,'a'60%'water'lotion'can'feel'as'thin'as'an'80%'lotion,'especially'if'we'leave'out'the'thickeners.''Take'a'look'at'this'62%'water'lotion'for'a'moment.''

SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39.5%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'6%'BTMS,50''


COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Although'I'used'10%'shea'butter,'it's'still'an'easily'pumpable'lotion'of'about'medium'thickness.'If'I'd'included'3%'stearic'in'this'recipe,'it'would'have'been'quite'thick.'If'I'd'included'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'cetyl'esters,'or'cetearyl'alcohol'in'this'recipe,'it'would'have'been'thicker'with'some'glide.'If'I'd'used'something'like'mango'or'cocoa'butter,'it'would'also'be'much'thicker'than'using'refined'shea'butter.'By'leaving'out'the'thickening'agents','our'heavier'butters,'fatty'alcohol,'and'fatty'acids','I'made'a'lotion'instead'of'a'cream.''Now'take'a'look'at'this'62%'water'lotion…'

HAND&LOTION&WITH&CETEARYL&ETHYLHEXANOATE&&&COCOA&BUTTER&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'20%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'6%'cocoa'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'7.5%'Polawax''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'3%'honeyquat'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil','Clementine'Cupcake'from'Brambleberry''It’s'very'light'and'creamy'feeling.'This'time'I'included'cetyl'alcohol'in'the'mix'as'well'as'6%'cocoa'butter,'but'it'ends'up'being'a'medium'weight'hand'lotion'that'feels'really'lovely'and'isn't'too'greasy.'By'using'an'ester'like'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'I've'compensated'for'the'greasy'feeling'of'the'cocoa'butter'but'kept'the'barrier'protection'it'offers.'If'we'used'a'thicker'oil,'like'avocado'or'jojoba,'increased'the'cocoa'butter'to'10%,'and'used'stearic'acid'instead'of'cetyl'alcohol,'you'd'see'a'very'different'product.''


So'there's'something'to'think'about.'Let's'say'you've'made'an'awesome'hand'lotion'and'want'to'make'it'slightly'thicker'without'changing'the'ingredients,'then'increase'the'butter'amount'or'change'your'fatty'alcohol'or'acid.'If'you've'made'an'awesome'body'butter'and'want'to'use'it'as'a'hand'lotion,'decrease'the'butters'and'increase'the'oils'to'get'a'thinner'product.'

AN,EXAMPLE,OF,MODIFYING,YOUR,LOTION,BY,MODIFYING,THE,THICKENER,Let’s'go'back'to'the'six'ingredient'lotion,'and'see'what'would'happen'if'we'changed'the'fatty'acid'or'fatty'alcohol.'''SIX,INGREDIENT,LOTION,WITH,SHEA,,SOY,BEAN,,AND,SESAME,OIL,

HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39.5%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'6%'BTMS,50'

'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Cetyl,alcohol:'If'we'remove'3%'of'the'oils'(any'of'the'oils)'and'add'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'this'will'thicken'our'lotion'and'offer'some'slip'and'glide'to'the'product.'Like'all'the'other'fatty'alcohols'and'acids,'it'behaves'as'an'extra'emollient'in'the'product.'As'a'bonus,'adding'cetyl'alcohol'to'a'product'with'BTMS,50'as'the'emulsifier'will'boost'the'conditioning'abilities,'which'could'make'for'a'more'skin'conditioning'kind'of'product.''Cetyl,esters:'If'we'remove'3%'of'the'oils'and'add'3%'cetyl'esters,'this'will'thicken'our'lotion,'but'not'as'much'as'cetyl'alcohol'would.'It'will'offer'more'slip'and'glide','thanks'to'the'anti,tack'properties','and'you'll'end'up'with'a'slightly'thicker'product'than'the'original.'(As'a'note,'I'think'it's'the'cetyl'esters'that'is'morphing'my'vanilla'based'scents,'so'be'careful'in'your'fragrance'choices.)'

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'Cetearyl,alcohol:'If'we'remove'3%'of'the'oils'and'add'3%'cetearyl'alcohol,'we'll'get'a'thicker,'waxier'feeling'lotion'than'the'original.'It'will'feel'more'occlusive'than'a'lotion'made'with'cetyl'alcohol'or'cetyl'esters,'and'it'will'be'thicker'than'either'of'these.''Behenyl,alcohol:'If'we'remove'3%'of'the'oils'and'add'3%'behenyl'alcohol,'we’ll'get'the'thickening'similar'to'cetyl'alcohol'with'a'velvety'after'feel'similar'to'cyclomethicone'with'some'very'nice'slip'and'glide.'''Stearic,acid:'If'we'remove'3%'of'the'oils'and'add'3%'stearic'acid,'we'll'get'a'much'thicker'product'than'any'of'the'previous'ones'with'more'drag'and'the'possibility'of'the'soaping'effect.'We'll'also'get'a'very'tenacious'cream,'one'that'will'offer'a'feeling'of'staying'on'the'skin'longer'than'those'made'with'the'fatty'alcohols'and'esters.''What'if'I'reduced'the'butter'or'replaced'it'with'oils,'what'would'these'thickeners'do?'They'd'thicken'it!'(Not'meaning'to'sound'sarcastic,'but'it's'true!)'If'you'have'an'all'oil'based'lotion,'adding'3%'of'one'of'these'thickeners'will'increase'the'viscosity'pretty'dramatically.'I'd'say'it's'on'par'with'adding'10%'to'15%''butters'to'a'product!'And'removing'the'thickeners'will'do'the'same'thing.'So'if'you'have'a'body'butter'recipe'you'really'love'and'want'to'make'nto'a'lotion,'remove'the'thickeners'and'see'how'you'like'it.'You'might'still'need'to'remove'some'of'the'butters','for'thickness,'as'well'for'reducing'the'greasiness'because'20%'shea'might'feel'great'on'your'arms,'but'not'on'your'hands','but'you're'on'your'way'to'creating'a'completely'different'lotion'with'a'tiny'change!''I%remember%when%I%switched%thickeners%for%the%first%time.%It%was%with%a%body%butter%recipe%I%found%on%the%Dish.%I%didn't%have%any%stearic%acid,%so%I%used%cetyl%alcohol.%And%the%difference!%It%went%from%the%consistency%of%whipped%butter%to%being%the%consistency%of%

Cool%Whip!%It%felt%much%creamier%and%glidier,%but%it%didn't%feel%like%it%stayed%on%as%long%as%the%version%with%stearic.%I%could%really%see%the%differences%between%the%two%products.%Who'd%have%known%that%switching%3%%of%the%recipe%could%make%such%a%huge%change%in%skin%feel?%%

GREAT,QUESTION!,How,can,you,thin,out,a,thick,recipe?,

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Someone'asks:'Say%you%have%a%cream%that%came%out%too%thick%and%you%have%to%thin%it.%You%measure%out%the%water%and%just%add?%THEN%how%do%you%refigure%the%%%of%your%original%formula?%'You'cannot'thin'out'a'thick'lotion'once'you've'made'it.'If'you'add'water'to'it,'you'll'mess'up'the'emulsion'and'the'preservative.'Heating'it'up'and'adding'more'water'will'make'our'not,heat'loving'ingredients'like'preservatives,'panthenol,'silicones,'and'so'on'very'upset'and'they'may'become'de,activated'or'might'give'off'a'horrible'smell'or'might'

mess'up'the'skin'feel.'So'if'you've'made'a'thick'lotion'and'want'it'thinner,'you'll'have'to'make'notes'for'next'time'that'you'wish'to'alter'it.'The'two'main'things'thickening'your'lotion'are'likely'to'be'butters'or'fatty'alcohols/fatty'acids.'That’s'what'you'want'to'modify'the'next'time'you’re'in'the'workshop!''

MAKING,SMALL,CHANGES,IN,THE,WATER,AND,COOL,DOWN,PHASES,I'm'sometimes'surprised'at'how'adding'a'titch'of'something'can'

change'a'lotion'so'much!'So'I'thought'we'd'take'a'look'at'how'a'small'change'can'make'a'big'difference.'(For'the'purposes'of'this'post,'I'm'considering'3%'or'lower'as'a'small'change.)''If'we'take'a'look'at'the'water'and'cool'down'phases,'there'are'all'kinds'of'small'changes'we'can'make'to'our'lotions'to'make'a'big'difference!'Consider'humectants.'''I'consider'humectants'essential'to'all'lotions'because'they'add'extra'moisturization'very'easily'and'they're'generally'pretty'inexpensive.'I've'found'a'huge'difference'in'lotions'that'don't'contain'a'humectant','I'live'in'a'humid'area,'and'adding'up'to'3%'glycerin,'honeyquat,'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'offers'enough'hygroscopic'power'to'keep'my'skin'feeling'moisturized'all'day!'You'can'combine'humectants'to'offer'more'moisturizing'power'if'you'want.'You'could'use'2.5%'sodium'lactate'with'3%'glycerin'and'3%'honeyquat'(the'latter'in'the'cool'down'phase)'for'a'very'humectanty'product.''Or'consider'hydrolyzed'proteins.'You'can'up'to'2%'of'silk,'soy,'oat,'or'mixed'proteins'to'your'water'phase'to'increase'the'film'forming'and'moisturizing'qualities'of'your'product.''


Or'consider'your'extracts.'We'add'these'at'up'to'0.5%'in'the'cool'down'phase,'but'they'can'offer'a'lot'of'anti,oxidizing,'anti,inflammatory,'and'astringent'qualities'to'our'products!'Consider'salicylic'acid'(used'at'up'to'2%'in'our'products)'or'AHAs'(used'at'up'to'2%)'and'the'benefits'those'two'ingredients'can'offer'in'small'quantities.'

'Think'about'ingredients'like'panthenol'(used'at'1%'to'5%)'or'allantoin'(used'at'up'to'0.5%),'which'offer'all'kinds'of'great'benefits'to'our'skin,'like'increased'wound'healing'and'barrier'protection.'I'like'to'use'panthenol'around'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase,'and'allantoin'at'0.5%'in'the'heated'water'phase'(although'it'can'be'used'in'the'cool'down'phase','the'key'is'to'include'before'your'mixture'gets'to'25˚C,'which'generally'well'after'the'cool'down'phase).''And'consider'things'like'fragrance'or'essential'oils.'At'0.5%'to'1%'in'the'cool'down'phase,'they'make'a'huge'difference!'Or'preservatives.'We'don't'need'much,'generally'0.5%'to'1.5%,'but'they'make'a'world'of'difference!'

'There'are'some'ingredients'I'would'never'use'in'small'amounts.'Ingredients'like'aloe'vera'and'hydrosols'are'best'used'at'10%'and'over,'although'looking'at'commercial'products,'you'd'think'2%'would'be'okay!''So'if'we'take'a'look'at'the'62%'water'shea,'soybean,'and'sesame'seed'oil'recipe,'we'can'do'a'lot'of'tweaking'to'get'some'interesting'effects!'And'remember,'every'change'you'to'make'to'the'water'phase'or'cool'down'phase'should'be'removed'from'the'water'amount!''So'let's'add'0.5%'allantoin,'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein,'and'2.5%'sodium'PCA'to'the'water'phase,'and'add'2%'panthenol'and'0.5%'chamomile'extract'to'this'lotion'recipe.'This'means'we'need'to'remove'7.5%'from'the'water'amount'to'compensate'for'our'new'additions.''

SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&(modified&to&include&some&small&changes)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'32%'water' '20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'


0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'2.5%'sodium'PCA''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'

2%'panthenol'0.5%'powdered'chamomile'extract'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''You'probably'won’t'notice'a'huge'skin'feel'difference'with'this'product'compared'to'the'original'–'you’ll'notice'a'difference,'but'it'isn’t'as'drastic'a'change'as'adding'or'removing'a'butter'or'fatty'

acid.'I'find'this'one'to'be'a'little'more'moisturizing'thanks'to'the'extra'humectants,'and'I'like'to'think'my'skin'feels'more'soothed'after'a'long'winter'day.'(Please'note,'the'word'“soothe”'is'considered'to'be'more'than'a'cosmetic'thing,'so'I’m'using'it'in'the'colloquial'sense'to'give'you'an'idea'of'the'effects!)''

AN,ASIDE,ON,ADDING,POWDERED,EXTRACTS,TO,YOUR,PRODUCT,To'use'a'powdered'extract,'I'dissolve'my'powder'in'a'titch'of'heated'water'(which'you'can'remove'from'your'heated'water'phase'or'just'add'at'the'cool'down'phase'point)','about'10'ml'for'0.5'grams'of'powder','and'stir'until'dissolved.'I'add'it'to'my'cool'down'phase'at'the'appropriate'temperature'(45˚C'or'less).'You'can'add'it'as'a'powder'into'the'cool'down'phase,'but'I'really'prefer'to'dissolve'it'then'add'it.'

GREAT,QUESTION!,HOW,MUCH,IS,TOO,MUCH,WHEN,IT,COMES,TO,EXTRACTS,AND,FRAGRANCE?,Pam'asked:'I%have%been%thinking%a%lot%about%tweaking%recipes.%If%for%no%other%reason%I%don't%have%a%lot%of%the%ingredients.%At%what%point%could%you%have%too%many%humectants%or%extracts?%The%mfg%may%says%use%in%the%range%of%.05%%and%2.5%%but%what%if%I%want%to%use%three%extracts%@%2.5%%(I%am%in%love%with%extracts...don't%tell%my%husband)%would%7.5%

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would%that%be%too%much.%I%am%also%confused%about%fragrance.%If%I%take%1%%of%52%ounce%batch%I%think%that%calculated%to%about%7%grams...OMG%that%was%SO%much%fragrance...%'The'amount'you'use'of'an'extract'depends'upon'the'type'of'extract.'For'instance,'you'could'add'up'to'1%'rosemary'and'1%'green'tea'and'1%'chamomile'and'all'would'be'well'(although'they'might'end'up'precipitating'at'the'bottom'of'your'bottle'in'a'toner'because'their'solubility'is'about'0.5%).'But'if'you'combined'0.5%'papaya'and'0.5%'another'exfoliating'extract,'you'd'be'in'for'a'world'of'pain'and'misery'as'your'skin'would'feel'quite'raw.'So'it'depends'on'the'extract,'its'purpose,'and'its'solubility.'''There'are'very'few'extracts'I'd'use'at'2.5%.'White'willow'bark,'maybe,'but'even'so'I'

think'the'most'I've'used'is'1.5%.'Come'to'think'of'it,'there'aren't'any'powdered'extracts'I'd'use'at'2.5%.'Liquid','yes,'like'green'tea'or'Multifruit'BSC','but'not'powdered'ones.''As'a'general'rule,'leave'on'products'should'have'0.5%'to'1%'fragrance'oil'and'rinse'off'products'can'go'as'high'as'3%.'Essential'oils'have'their'own'rules,'so'please'consult'a'reputable'source'before'adding'3%'of'any'essential'oil'to'any'product!'''

MAKING,SMALL,CHANGES,IN,THE,OIL,PHASE,WITHOUT,INCREASING,THE,EMULSIFIERS,Always'keep'in'mind'that'if'you'change'the'oil'phase'by'increasing'the'oil'amount,'you'need'to'modify'the'emulsifier'and'modify'the'water'amount.'For'now,'let's'take'a'look'at'modifying'the'oil'phase'without'increasing'it.''Some'small'changes'I'like'to'make'in'my'oil'phase'include'adding'some'IPM'or'IPP','usually'at'2%','to'decrease'the'feeling'of'greasiness.'I'like'to'include'cyclomethicone'at'2%'and'dimethicone'at'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase.'Cyclomethicone'will'increase'the'slip,'glide,'and'skin'feel'of'the'product,'making'it'feel'more'powdery.'Dimethicone'will'increase'slip'and'glide'and'behaves'as'a'barrier'ingredient.'Adding'1%'Vitamin'E'will'help'retard'rancidity'in'my'oils'(although'they'are'longer'shelf'life'oils).'And'I'don't'have'a'thickener'in'here!'I'think'including'3%'cetyl'alcohol'will'make'this'lotion'much'thicker,'a'more'body'butter,y'type'consistency'with'all'that'shea'butter,'so'I'll'include'that'as'well.''


These'small'changes'add'up'quick!'I'need'to'increase'my'oil'phase'by'10%'here,'which'is'quite'a'bit.'So'I'think'I'll'do'it'by'removing'some'of'the'oils'in'the'product'so'I'don't'have'to'mess'with'increasing'the'emulsifier'and'decreasing'the'water'amount.'I'think'I'll'reduce'the'shea'butter'to'5%'as'I'would'like'a'product'that'that'can'go'into'a'pump'bottle,'and'10%'shea'butter'plus'3%'thickener'tends'to'equal'more'of'a'body'butter'consistency.'So'where'do'I'find'the'other'5%?'I'think'I'll'reduce'the'oils'to'7.5%'each.'This'will'make'every'still'equal'30%'(7.5%'soybean'oil,'7.5%'sesame'oil,'5%'shea'butter,'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'2%'IPM,'2%'cyclomethicone,'2%'dimethicone,'1%'Vitamin'E'for'a'total'of'30%.)''

NOT&SO&MUCH&A&SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&ANY&MORE&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&(modified&to&include&some&small&oil&phase&changes)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'32%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'2.5%'sodium'PCA''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'5%'refined'shea'butter'7.5%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'sesame'oil'2%'IPM'or'IPP'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'1%'Vitamin'E'2%'panthenol'0.5%'powdered'chamomile'extract'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''


If%you%didn't%want%to%alter%the%butter%and%oil%amounts%?%you%want%to%keep%them%at%10%%shea%butter,%10%%soy%bean%oil,%and%10%%sesame%seed%oil%?%you'd%have%an%oil%phase%of%40%%(30%%original%oils%and%butters%with%10%%more%added).%This%means%you'd%need%to%increase%your%emulsifier%?%if%we're%using%Polawax%as%an%example,%you'd%add%2.5%%more%emulsifier%?%and%decrease%the%water%amount%by%12.5%%(10%%more%oils,%2.5%%more%emulsifier).%With%BTMS?50,%we're%not%as%picky%about%increasing%or%decreasing%the%emulsifier%because%we%don't%need%to%follow%the%25%%rule,%but%I'd%increase%it%to%8.5%%anyway.%With%other%emulsifiers,%you'll%have%to%consult%your%notes%or%your%supplier.%'So'what'will'these'small'changes'do'to'the'skin'feel'of'the'lotion?'My'original'creation'was'a'medium'weight'lotion'with'about'a'medium'greasiness'level.'Decreasing'the'shea'butter'and'adding'the'IPM'will'result'in'a'less'greasy'lotion.'Adding'the'cyclomethicone'

will'also'have'this'effect.'Adding'the'dimethicone'will'increase'the'greasiness'a'bit'(and'the'shine!)'but'adds'a'much'needed'barrier'ingredient'(as'will'the'allantoin'from'yesterday's'recipe),'which'is'a'good'thing'during'the'winter'months!'Adding'the'cetyl'alcohol'will'increase'the'slip'and'glide,'as'well'as'the'thickness'of'the'lotion.'Despite'reducing'the'shea'butter,'we'should'see'the'same'or'slightly'thicker'consistency'thanks'to'the'cetyl'alcohol.''

A,FEW,SMALL,CHANGES,TO,CONSIDER, ,Using'beeswax'will'make'your'product'feel'a'little'waxier,'but'used'in'small'amounts,'it'can'make'your'lotions'more'tenacious'and'less'susceptible'to'rinsing'off'when'washing.'I'like'to'add'2%'to'3%'beeswax'in'my'day'time'hand'lotion,'and'I'find'it'stays'on'well'after'washing.'It'doesn't'make'it'feel'super'waxy'or'greasy.'I'like'to'include'beeswax'in'my'scrub'bars'because'it'seems'to'keep'the'oils'and'butters'on'my'skin'longer.'Include'it'at'2%'to'3%'by'either'adding'to'the'oil'phase'or'substituting'for'another'oil.''I'generally'add'my'fragrance'oils'at'1%'to'my'products'in'the'cool'down'phase,'but'there'are'some'fragrances'that'are'really'strong'and'should'be'added'at'0.5%'and'others'that'are'quite'weak'and'should'be'added'at'1.5%.'You'll'have'to'play'with'your'fragrances'to'get'to'know'which'ones'will'be'overpowering'and'which'ones'are'wimpy.'And'different'products'need'different'fragrancing'levels.'For'instance,'for'a'bubble'bath'I'might'use'1.5%'to'2%'because'you're'using'a'tiny'bit'of'product'in'a'lot'of'water.'For'leave'on'products,'like'lotions'or'lotion'bars'or'anything'that'might'stay'on'your'skin'or'hair,'I'


rarely'go'over'1.5%.'For'rinse'off'or'bath'products,'I'might'go'as'high'as'2%,'depending'upon'the'nature'of'the'product.'In'general,'I'find'1%'for'a'fragrance'oil'works'best.''For'essential'oils,'consult'your'safe'usage'rates.'Every'essential'oil'is'different,'and'you'll'want'to'make'sure'the'products'aren't'being'used'by'pregnant'or'nursing'women,'kids,'or'the'infirm.'I'know'everyone'sees'essential'oils'as'natural'and'therefore'better,'they'offer'effects'(unlike'fragrance'oils)'that'you'must'know'before'using.'For'instance,'the'citrus'essential'oils'can'make'us'sun'sensitive,'so'making'an'orange'or'mandarin'or'lemon'essential'oil'lip'balm'is'probably'a'bad'idea'for'the'summer.'So'please'learn'more'about'essential'oils'before'including'them'in'everything.''Chelating'ingredients'like'EDTA'can'help'retard'rancidity'in'our'products'and'act'as'an'auxiliary'preservative'in'our'products.'Adding'just'0.2%'in'the'water'phase'can'make'a'huge'difference!''Anti,oxidants'like'Vitamin'E'can'be'added'to'our'products'at'0.5%'to'1%'in'the'cool'down'phase'to'help'retard'rancidity.'We'can'use'it'as'low'as'0.05%,'but'who'has'a'scale'that'can'measure'that'low?'So'0.5%'is'more'than'enough'to'help'keep'our'oils'nicer'longer,'plus'it'can'have'a'moisturizing'and'softening'effect'on'our'skin,'so'that's'a'bonus.''

MAKING,MORE,CHANGES,TO,YOUR,LOTION,(general),,So'we've'tweaked'the'formerly'six'ingredient'shea,'soy'bean,'and'sesame'oil'lotion'to'the'point'where'it's'a'completely'different'recipe...and'that's'the'point'of'this'series!'To'tweak'recipes'to'make'them'your'own,'to'offer'the'skin'feel'and'properties'you'want!'So'let's'take'a'look'at'tweaking'this'recipe'even'further','is'that'possible?','for'different'skin'types'and'properties.''NOT,SO,MUCH,A,SIX,INGREDIENT,LOTION,ANY,MORE,WITH,SHEA,,SOY,BEAN,,AND,SESAME,OIL,HEATED'WATER'PHASE'32%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'


2.5%'sodium'PCA''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'5%'refined'shea'butter'7.5%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'sesame'oil'2%'IPM'or'IPP'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'1%'Vitamin'E'2%'panthenol'0.5%'powdered'chamomile'extract'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''I'originally'created'this'recipe'to'help'my'husband'with'his'itchy,'winter'skin.'I'chose'my'oils'because'they'were'high'in'phytosterols'and'linoleic'acid.'But'what'can'we'do'to'change'this'lotion?''What,if,I,want,to,make,this,more,occlusive?'I'turn'to'three'things','dimethicone,'allantoin,'and'cocoa'butter,'all'of'which'are'approved'by'the'FDA'as'barrier'ingredients.'So'if'I'wanted'to'make'this'more'occlusive,'I'could'switch'the'shea'butter'for'cocoa'butter'and'have'a'really'occlusive'lotion.'It'will'make'it'thicker,'but'not'a'lot'more'greasy'as'shea'butter'is'kind'of'greasy'anyway.''What,if,I,wanted,to,make,this,less,greasy?'I'm'already'using'BTMS,50'and'I've'included'IPM,'but'you'could'choose'mango'butter'instead'of'shea'butter'and'less'greasy'oils'like'hazelnut,'macadamia'nut,'camellia'seed'oil,'and'avocado'oil'in'place'of'the'oils'in'the'product.'I'could'substitute'my'oils'for'some'esters','I'd'go'with'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'and'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'or'ethylhexyl'palmitate','and'make'a'lighter,'less'greasy'product.'Or'you'could'add'more'IPM'or'IPP,'up'to'5%.''

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What,if,I,want,this,to,be,more,greasy?'Remove'the'IPM'or'IPP,'use'Polawax'or'another'emulsifier'instead'of'BTMS,50,'and'choose'greasier'oils'and'butters'(although'shea'butter'is'pretty'much'the'greasiest'you'can'find'out'of'our'standard'butters).''What,if,I,wanted,this,to,be,a,lighter,product?'Replace'the'butter'with'oils.'Remove'the'thickener'or'use'less.'Use'lighter'oils'(since'I'm'already'using'soy'bean'and'sesame'seed'oil,'you'could'do'something'like'use'fractionated'coconut'oil'in'their'place).''What,if,I,wanted,to,turn,this,into,a,body,milk,like,or,sprayable,product?'Start'with'another'recipe'as'the'tweaking'for'this'would'take'all'day.'But'a'quick'summary'would'be'to'remove'the'butter,'remove'the'thickener,'use'Polawax'instead'of'BTMS,50'(as'it'will'make'a'slightly'thinner'product),'increase'the'water'amount,'decrease'the'oil'amount,'and'recalculate'it'all.'Or'you'could'use'something'like'Sucragel,'which'makes'quite'thin'lotions'even'with'25%'oils'and'butters.''What,if,I,wanted,to,make,this,for,sunburned,skin?'I'could'increase'the'aloe'vera'to'30%'or'higher'(don't'use'all'aloe'vera'as'it'can'make'a'lotion'feel'sticky),'and'choose'an'extract'and'hydrosol'good'for'that'purpose.'Lavender'hydrosol'is'always'nice'and'chamomile'hydrosol'and'extract'are'good'at'soothing'burned'skin.'So'I'could'use'10%'lavender'hydrosol'and'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'or'use'0.5%'chamomile'extract'(which'I've'already'done,'but'I'm'trying'to'make'a'point'here).'I'd'probably'remove'the'butter'as'I'don't'want'it'to'be'too'occlusive.'And'I'could'include'up'to'1%'lavender'essential'oil'as'this'is'good'for'soothing'as'well.''What,if,I,wanted,to,turn,this,into,a,body,butter,without,messing,with,the,emulsifier?'I'd'increase'the'butter'to'15%'to'20%'and'reduce'the'oils'accordingly'(so'0%'to'5%'oils).''What,if,I,wanted,to,turn,this,into,a,foot,cream,without,messing,with,the,emulsifier?'I'd'increase'the'butter'to'10%'or'so,'use'heavier'oils,'and'use'stearic'acid'as'my'thickener.'I'd'include'some'foot'friendly'essential'oils','spearmint,'peppermint,'camphor,'and'eucalyptus'in'equal'parts','at'3%'and'reduce'one'of'the'oils'by'2%'(because'I'already'have'1%'fragrance'oil'in'the'recipe).''What,if,I,hate,silicones?'Remove'them'and'use'oil'in'the'same'amount'in'the'right'phase.'Or'use'a'silicone'alternative'(see'the'notes'below).'''What,if,I,want,to,leave,out,the,preservative?'Don't.'


'


SILICONE,ALTERNATIVES,I've'read'the'e,mails'and'the'comments'and'I'know'some'of'you'are'seeking'alternatives'to'silicones.'Fortunately,'you'can'find'ingredients'that'will'offer'the'same'kind'of'conditioning,'slip,'film'forming,'and'shine'enhancing'qualities'of'dimethicone'to'include'in'your'hair'or'skin'care'products.'(You'really'can't'mimic'the'effects'of'cyclomethicone'that'well,'but'we'can'try!)''Cyclomethicone'is'a'volatile'ingredient'that...'

helps'hair'dry'faster' increases'spreading'abilities' helps'with'wet'combing'(reduces'combing'forces)' delivers'active'ingredients'to'your'hair,'then'evaporates,'which'decreases'drying'

time''Dimethicone'forms'a'film'on'your'hair'which...'

improves'wet'and'dry'combing'(reduces'combing'forces)' increases'shine' increases'the'feeling'of'softness' reduces'static'charge' increases'spreading'abilities' resists'humidity'

'If'you'want'to'replace'these'ingredients,'you'need'to'find'replacements'that'are'going'to'bring'the'same'features'to'the'party.'You'll'want'something'very'lubricious'(spreading'abilities)'that'will'form'a'film'on'your'hair'strands'to'decrease'anti,static'charge'and'improves'wet'and'dry'combing.''FILM,FORMING,

You'can'use'oils'and'butters'to'help'form'a'film'on'your'hair'strands'or'add'shine'to'your'hair.'Unfortunately,'some'of'these'may'also'cause'your'hair'to'be'quite'greasy'and'limp,'so'consider'using'very'light'oils'like'fractionated'coconut'oil'or'jojoba'(I'realize'this'isn't'light,'but'it'is'very'good'for'your'hair!)'or'camellia'oil.'Butters'are'probably'right'out'for'anyone'without'very'coarse'hair.''Hydrolyzed'proteins'are'great'for'forming'films'at'up'to'5%'in'your'heated'water'phase.'''


Emollient'esters'like'PEG'7'olivate'will'form'a'film'and'increase'shine.'Something'like'IPM,'another'ester,'will'reduce'the'greasy'feeling'of'too'much'butters'or'oils.''USE,A,PRODUCT,INTENDED,TO,BE,A,SILICONE,REPLACEMENT,

C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'(called'EmEster'or'Crodamol'AB'from'Croda)'is'a'dry,'emollient,'oil'soluble'ester'like'IPM'that'can'offer'some'qualities'similar'to'dimethicone'in'hair'care'products.'Use'at'1'to'15%'in'your'hair'care'products.'(This'is'a'great'substitute'for'IPM'in'other'products,'but'costs'a'lot'more'if'you'live'in'Canada!)'

'Croda'has'a'product'called'Crodamol'STS'(superior'to'silicone),'INCI:'PPG,3'Benzyl'ether'myristate.'It's'an'ester'that'offers'film'forming,'shine'enhancing,'and'detangling'like'dimethicone.'It'should'also'take'care'of'those'annoying'frizzies!'Unlike'other'esters,'though,'it'is'not'water'soluble.'It'will'disperse'in'surfactant'systems'if'you'use'under'3%.'''Silicone'SR,5'by'Preperse'(INCI'name':'C13,C16'Isoparaffin'(and)'C12,C14'Isoparaffin'(and)'C13,C15'Alkane)'is'a'silicone'replacement'derived'from'mineral'oil.'''And'AquaEm'(INCI:'PEG,6'Caprylic/Capric'Glycerides'(and)'Dimethicone'PEG,8'Benzoate'(and)'Di,PPG,2'Myreth,10'Adipate,'The'Herbarie)'is'apparently'another'good'option'as'a'silicone'replacement.'Suggested'usage'is'1%'to'10%.'I'have'not'used'this'product,'so'I'can't'offer'my'opinion'on'how'it'feels'or'usage'rates.'Let'me'know'if'what'you'think!''

GREAT,QUESTION!,Can,we,use,oils,from,the,grocery,store,in,our,products?,Madeaj'asks:'I%have%a%question%about%oils.%I%see%oils%in%the%supermarket.%My%local%has%sesame%(not%toasted;?),%macadamia%nut,%sunflower%(storebrand%for%frying),%walnut,%grapeseed,%coconut%oil%and%of%course%olive%oil.%Are%these%the%same%oil%used%in%cosmetic%products%or%is%there%a%difference?%I%usually%cook%with%olive%oil%and%I%only%use%one%source%extra%virgin%olive%oil%because%I%prefer%the%taste%to%blended.%Should%I%use%light%olive%oil%because%it%has%a%lighter%smell?%Is%the%sunflower%oil%(ingredient%lists%only%pure%sunflower%oil)%in%the%big%bottle%for%frying%the%same%as%the%kind%used%for%cosmetics?%


Because%of%you,%I%am%trying%a%lot%of%new%things%and%my%internal%product%junky%is%going%crazy%with%all%the%things%I%WANT%to%buy.%:?)''Sorry'about'the'enabling!'It's'not'that'I'want'you'to'become'addicted,'it's'just'nice'to'have'company'in'my'little'obsessions!''There'are'different'grades'of'oil','food'grade'and'cosmetic'grade'being'two'of'them.'The'ones'in'the'grocery'store'are'food'grade'quality,'which'should'be'higher'than'cosmetic'grade.'And'a'lot'of'the'cosmetic'grade'oils'are'standardized'to'be'a'specific'SAP'value'or'meet'a'specific'fatty'acid'profile'and'so'on,'whereas'food'grade'doesn't'necessarily'do'that.''I've'found'that'carrier'oils'tend'to'be'less'expensive'at'my'local'suppliers,'but'that'isn't'always'the'case,'especially'with'something'like'olive'oil'that'tends'to'go'on'sale'regularly'or'coconut'oil'if'you'have'some'great'Indian'markets'nearby.'Oils'at'the'health'food'store'are'more'expensive'still','check'out'the'prices'on'cocoa'butter'if'you'want'a'shock!','but'if'you're'impatient'and'can't'wait'for'the'mail'or'make'a'trip'to'a'local'supplier,'it's'a'great'option.''As'for'choosing'an'olive'oil,'it's'up'to'you'what'kind'you'want'to'use.'I'use'pomace'because'it'doesn't'smell'very'strong'and'it's'inexpensive,'but'there's'no'reason'to'not'use'extra'virgin'if'you'like'it.'As'much'as'I'love'toasted'sesame'oil'in'my'noodles'and'dumpling'sauce,'I’m'thinking'that'it'might'be'a'little'too'fragrant'for'a'hand'lotion!''I'started'off'using'grapeseed,'sunflower,'and'olive'oils'from'my'local'mega,mart,'and'I'was'pleased'with'them'(well,'not'the'grapeseed'as'it'has'a'really'short'shelf'life'and'my'stuff'went'rancid'quickly,'but'that'wasn't'because'it'was'a'grocery'store'oil).'The'oils'should'be'of'higher'quality'when'it'comes'to'cooking,'but'they'might'not'have'the'same'fatty'acid'profile'as'some'of'the'cosmetic'grade'oils.'


FORMULATING,LIGHT,LOTIONS,A'light'lotion'is'one'that'consists'of'about'80%'water'and'doesn't'contain'lots'of'butters'or'other'thickeners.'This'is'something'you'd'use'as'a'body'lotion'or'facial'moisturizer'as'it's'not'sturdy'enough'to'handle'being'a'hand'or'foot'lotion.'It'works'out'to'about'80%'water'phase,'0.5%'to'1%'preservative,'and'19%'oil'phase'(the'cool'down'phase'comes'out'of'the'water'and'oil'phase).''BASIC,LIGHT,LOTION,RECIPE,HEATED'WATER'PHASE'

80%'water''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'4%'emulsifier'15%'other'oily'things'like'oils,'cetyl'alcohol,'and'so'on''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''For'our'water'phase,'you'know'we'can'replace'a'lot'of'the'water'with'some'very'interesting'things'like'aloe'vera,'hydrosols,'hydrolyzed'proteins,'humectants,'cationic'polymers,'and'so'on.'For'the'oil'phase,'we'know'we'can'use'oils,'butters,'thickeners,'and'so'on.'And'for'the'cool'down'phase,'you'know'you'can'add'extracts,'panthenol,'silicones,'and'so'on.'So'let's'figure'out'what'we'want'to'make!''What,kind,of,product,do,I,want,to,make?,Is,it,a,moisturizer,,body,milk,,lotion,,cream,,or,butter?,For,which,body,part,is,this,intended?,What,kind,of,skin,feel,do,I,want?,Do,I,have,a,specific,outcome,in,mind?,For,what,skin,type,am,I,making,this?,'We'know'I'want'to'make'a'light'lotion,'so'I'think'I'll'make'a'light'lotion'for'winter'skin'(since'it's'winter'and'the'last'time'I'made'a'detailed'post'about'light'lotions'I'made'a'summer'product).'I'want'something'that's'light'and'glidy'and'I'm'not'too'picky'about'it'being'greasy'because'it'should'sink'in'quickly.'Ideally'I'll'include'some'occlusive'ingredients'to'help'act'as'barriers'to'the'outside'world.''


For'light'lotions,'I'm'generally'concentrating'on'the'water'soluble'ingredients'to'pack'as'many'goodies'into'the'product'as'possible,'simply'because'I'don't'have'a'huge'oil'phase.'I'want'to'pick'one'or'two'oils'at'the'most,'and'I'want'to'maximize'their'qualities'because'I'don't'have'a'huge'oil'phase.'So'if'I'want'something'with'anti,inflammatory'features'I'could'choose'an'oil'full'of'phytosterols'or'I'could'use'a'hydrosol'or'extract'that'offer'the'same'qualities.'If'I'want'an'oil'that'feels'less'greasy,'I'could'use'a'less'greasy'oil,'an'ester,'or'I'could'use'BTMS,50'as'the'emulsifier.'Because'I'have'a'small'oil'phase,'I'can't'be'using'tons'of'oils'to'get'the'skin'feel'I'want,'so'I'have'to'rely'on'the'water'soluble'ingredients'more'than'with'other'products.'(It's'the'same'with'moisturizers','focus'on'the'water'soluble'ingredients'to'give'your'skin'the'benefits'you'want!)''I'want'to'include'aloe'vera'at'10%'for'its'film'forming'and'soothing'benefits.'For'winter'skin,'I'like'to'use'either'chamomile'or'lavender'hydrosol'for'anti,inflammatory'and'soothing'benefits.'I'think'I'll'go'with'lavender'hydrosol'today'because'I'm'out'of'chamomile'and'use'the'chamomile'as'an'extract'at'0.5%'in'the'cool'down'phase.''I'want'to'include'my'humectants','let's'say'2.5%'sodium'lactate'and'3%'honeyquat'(it'll'do'double'duty'as'a'skin'conditioning'agent'and'humectant)','although'I'could'use'any'humectants'or'cationic'polymers'I'like.'I'think'humectants'are'important'in'any'lotion'but'more'so'in'a'light'lotion'or'moisturizer'because'I'll'be'getting'a'lot'of'the'moisturizing'qualities'from'the'humectants'and'film'formers.'Since'I'won't'be'including'cocoa'butter'as'a'barrier'ingredient,'I'think'I'll'add'0.5%'allantoin'to'my'water'phase'and'2%'dimethicone'to'the'cool'down'phase'to'take'its'place.''Oh,'and'I'want'to'use'some'hydrolyzed'protein'as'a'film'former'and'moisturizer'in'the'water'phase.'Let's'go'with'my'usual'2%,'but'this'time'I'll'use'silk'because'it's'a'nice'film'former'and'moisturizer!'And'I'want'to'add'1%'fragrance.''We'need'to'decrease'our'water'amount'by'29.5%'to'make'up'for'the'addition'of'these'other'ingredients.'So'our'80%'water'is'now'50.5%.'(We'aren't'removing'2%'for'the'dimethicone'as'that'comes'out'of'the'oil'phase.)'We'still'have'80%'water'soluble'ingredients'in'this'lotion'in'the'form'of'water,'aloe'vera,'hydrosols,'humectants,'cationic'polymers,'and'extracts!''HEATED'WATER'PHASE'50.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'


10%'chamomile'hydrosol'0.5%'allantoin'2.5%'sodium'PCA'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'3%'honeyquat''For'the'oil'phase,'I'think'I'll'use'some'esters'today.'I'want'something'really'light'but'occlusive,'so'I'm'thinking'I'might'use'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'as'the'main'oil'in'my'product.'It's'occlusive'and'light'and'will'fix'my'fragrance,'if'that's'what'I'want.'Since'this'is'a'dry'feeling'ester,'I'don't'need'to'include'any'IPM'or'IPP'to'reduce'greasiness.'If'you'don't'have'this'ester,'consider'using'a'light'oil'like'fractionated'coconut'oil,'sunflower,'safflower,'soybean,'hazelnut,'camellia'seed,'evening'primrose,'or'borage'oil'if'you'want'a'light'feeling'(click'here'for'the'emollients'list).'Some'of'these'are'dry,'some'aren't.'If'you'want'a'drier'feeling'product'with'sunflower,'soybean,'or'safflower'oil,'then'add'2%'IPM'or'IPP.''I'think'I'll'add'a'little'cetyl'alcohol'as'I'really'do'want'some'thickening,'so'I'll'go'with'that'at'3%.'My'oil'phase'right'now'consists'of'2%'dimethicone'(cool'down'phase),'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'and'10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate.'As'we're'still'using'15%'oil'soluble'ingredients,'we'don't'need'to'alter'the'emulsifier.''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'4%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol'10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate''So'let's'take'a'look'at'our'finished'light'lotion.'

LIGHT&LOTION&WITH&C12[15&ALKYL&BENZOATE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'50.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'


10%'chamomile'hydrosol'0.5%'allantoin'2.5%'sodium'PCA'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'4%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol'10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'3%'honeyquat''If'you'want'to'alter'this'recipe,'then'consider'using'a'light'oil'in'place'of'the'ester.'Something'like'sesame'seed'or'rice'bran'oil'would'be'great'choices'here'because'they'offer'tons'of'linoleic'acid'and'phytosterols,'and'they'aren't'that'heavy'(although'some'might'consider'them'greasy).'Feel'free'to'remove'the'dimethicone'and'use'an'oil'in'the'oil'phase'instead.'Leave'out'the'aloe'vera'and'hydrosols'and'use'all'water!'The'possibilities'are'endless.'''

TWEAKING,THE,LIGHT,LOTION, ,We'know'that'a'light'lotion'has'about'an'80%'water'phase,'19%'oil'phase,'and'0.5%'to'1%'preservative.''And'we'know'we'can'tweak'that'lotion'silly'with'any'ingredients'we'want'as'long'as'we'stay'within'those'guidelines'if'we'want'it'to'remain'the'consistency'of'a'light'lotion'(You'can'reduce'the'water,'increase'the'oil'phase,'and'make'your'way'to'the'70%'water'lotion'or'even'60%'lotion,'if'you'wish!)''So'what'kind'of'changes'can'we'make?'Well,'it'depends'on'the'goals'of'your'lotion!''


Let's'say'we'want'something'that's'a'little'thicker'but'still'want'an'80%'water'amount.'We'can'add'a'butter'to'the'mix','say'5%'of'something'like'cocoa'butter,'mango'butter,'or'shea'butter','or'we'can'add'more'thickener.'Adding'stearic'acid'will'make'it'thicker'than'cetyl'alcohol'or'cetyl'esters.'I'd'suggest'using'about'2%'to'3%'thickener'in'a'recipe'like'this.''So'let's'say'we'want'a'more'occlusive'lotion'and'we'don't'want'to'use'dimethicone'for'that'purpose.'Let's'use'5%'cocoa'butter'and'10%'oils.'This'will'give'us'a'thicker,'more'occlusive'lotion'than'one'without'cocoa'butter.'Or'we'could'use'5%'cocoa'butter,'2%'stearic'acid'or'cetyl'alcohol,'and'8%'oils'to'make'a'much'thicker,'occlusive'lotion'than'the'original.''Or'if'you'wanted'to'make'something'occlusive'with'dimethicone,'you'could'use'2%'dimethicone'(in'the'cool'down'phase),'3%'cocoa'butter,'2%'stearic'acid'or'cetyl'alcohol,'and'8%'oils.''Or'we'could'use'something'like'babassu'oil','did'I'mention'I'love'this'stuff?','along'with'a'less'greasy'oil'(let's'say'camellia'seed'oil'as'I'have'a'lot'at'home)'and'some'IPM'and'BTMS,50'to'make'a'drier'feeling'product.'Say'5%'babassu'oil,'8%'camellia'seed'oil,'2%'IPM,'and'replace'the'emulsifier'with'BTMS,50'for'a'light,'non,greasy'feeling'product.''Or'let's'say'we'want'to'make'something'that'would'be'considered'oil'free'(although'technically'the'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'lotion'was'oil'free'because'we'used'an'ester'instead'of'an'oil).'We'could'use'10%'esters,'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'and'2%'cetyl'esters,'cetearyl'alcohol,'stearic'acid,'or'another'thickener'to'make'an'oil,free'but'thicker'product.''There'are'hundreds','if'not'thousands','of'different'combinations'you'can'try'in'all'the'lotions'I've'been'writing'about'here.'It'all'depends'on'what'you'want'in'a'product!''


TWEAKING,THE,LIGHT,LOTION,TO,BECOME,A,BODY,MILK,I'based'this'recipe'on'a'product'called'a'sprayable'body'milk'by'a'famous'company'(that'won’t'be'mentioned'here).'This'really'isn’t'a'great'variation'on'making'the'light'lotion'because'I'left'out'the'thickeners'and'the'butters'to'make'it'thinner.'But'I'wanted'to'include'this'in'the'e,book'to'show'you'that'you'don’t'need'to'use'an'80%'water'recipe'to'get'a'thin'product.'It’s'all'about'choosing'your'ingredients'wisely'to'reduce'the'viscosity!'''I'started'with'the'ingredient'list'from'the'company,'then'picked'out'what'I'think'are'the'key'ingredients','water,'emollients,'humectants,'emulsifier,'preservative,'anti,oxidant,'and'fragrance','and'tried'as'best'as'I'could'to'use'the'same'or'similar'ingredients,'with'the'exception'of'adding'the'rice'bran'oil.'But'I'couldn't.'There'were'things'I'wanted'to'include'in'a'sprayable'lotion'that'aren't'in'this'recipe,'so'I'used'this'as'a'template'but'went'on'my'own'merry'way!'''I'decided'I'needed'some'extra'stuff,'so'I'included'lavender'hydrosol'for'its'great'properties'of'soothing'wind'or'weather'chapped'skin'

and'the'anti,irritation'properties.'(You'could'use'lavender'essential'oil'in'this'but'I'really'can't'stand'the'smell'of'it'on'my'skin'in'leave,in'products,'so'I'go'with'the'hydrosol'every'time).'I'added'allantoin'at'0.5%'and'dimethicone'at'2%'as'barrier'ingredients.'I'wanted'a'humectant'in'there,'so'I'tried'this'new'one'I've'been'testing','Zemea','at'3%'(which,'as'a'point'of'interest,'is'considered'all,natural'and'is'Ecocert'certified).'You'could'use'any'humectant'you'like'in'place'of'it.'And'I'included'Phytokeratin'as'a'protein'because'for'some'reason'I'thought'it'contained'rice'when'I'was'in'the'workshop,'but'it'doesn't.'''In'the'oil'phase,'I'went'with'rice'bran'oil','because'that's'the'challenge,'after'all','and'included'the'ethylhexyl'palmitate'and'babassu'oil'found'in'the'original.'I'used'Polawax'as'my'emulsifier'after'debating'including'BTMS,50.'(I'decided'not'to'as'I'didn't'want'it'to'be'too'dry'feeling.)'''


In'my'cool'down'phase,'I'included'cyclomethicone'to'give'it'a'drier'but'glidy'feel'and'Vitamin'E'as'my'anti,oxidant.'I'included'honeyquat'as'a'humectant'and'skin'conditioner'as'well.'''So'what'did'I'create?'

SPRAYABLE&BODY&MILK&WITH&RICE&BRAN&OIL&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'48.5%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol'0.5%'allantoin'3%'Zemea'(humectant)'or'glycerin'or'sodium'lactate'at'2.5%''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'5%'rice'bran'oil'5%'ethyhexyl'palmitate'5%'babassu'oil'5%'Polawax''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'honeyquat'2%'dimethicone'2%'cyclomethicone'0.5%'Vitamin'E''1%'fragrance'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus''I'doubled'the'recipe'and'got'250'ml'(8'ounces)'of'product.'''What'do'I'think'of'this'product?'I'really'like'it.'It'has'a'nice'consistency','it's'sprayable'and'but'it'doesn't'feel'too'thin','and'it'makes'my'skin'feel'very'moisturized.'I'don't'think'I'd'alter'any'part'of'this'recipe'as'it'has'both'the'dry'feeling'from'the'babassu'oil,'ester,'and'cyclomethicone'but'a'little'greasiness'from'the'rice'bran'and'dimethicone.'If'you'want'to'make'this'recipe'and'don't'have'the'ethylhexyl'palmitate,'feel'free'to'use'another'ester'you'like'or'another'oil,'but'try'to'make'it'a'light,'drier'feeling'oil'like'hazelnut,'evening'primrose,'borage,'or'camellia'seed'oils,'for'instance.'''


LEARNING,TO,FORMULATE,FACIAL,MOISTURIZERS,I'mentioned'the'other'day'that'I'find'moisturizers'the'hardest'product'to'create,'and'I'should'start'off'by'justifying'this'comment.'They'aren't'hard'products'to'make','the'process'is'the'same'as'any'lotion'with'the'heated'water'phase,'heated'oil'phase,'heat'and'hold,'cool'down'phase,'and'mixing','but'they'are'hard'products'to'perfect.'There'are'so'many'great'oils'from'which'we'can'choose,'and'finding'the'ones'that'offer'the'perfect'skin'feel'and'consistency'and'don't'make'us'break'out'is'the'hard'part.'Then'we'have'tons'of'extracts,'cosmeceuticals,'and'so'on'which'we'can'put'into'the'products...well,'you'can'see'why'we'have'such'difficulty'making'one'we'love.''

The'first'step'in'making'a'moisturizer'is'to'learn'your'skin'type.'Some'of'us'can't'stand'any'oils'on'our'skin'and'some'of'us'can'slather'on'shea'butter'and'still'feel'like'we'need'a'little'more'moisturizing.'I'recommend'your'first'stop'should'be'in'the'skin'chemistry'&'types'section'of'this'blog.'Figure'out'what'your'skin'needs'and'then'choose'your'ingredients'accordingly.''The'second'thing'is'to'decide'on'a'recipe.'My'standard'recipe'is'an'80%'water'recipe,'but'you'can'have'a'higher'or'lower'water'phase'depending'upon'your'needs.'I'find'the'80%'water'recipe'allows'me'to'have'a'nice'oil'phase'(or'oil'free'phase,'depending'on'the'recipe)'and'a'nice'water'phase.'If'you'have'very'dry'skin'or'want'a'night'cream,'you'could'go'down'to'a'70%'water'recipe.'(The'recipe'I'll'be'using'as'a'starting'point'contains'88.5%'water,'but'we're'going'to'play'with'it'quite'a'bit.)''When'choosing'your'oil'based'ingredients,'consult'a'list'of'comedogenic'or'acnegenic'oils'and'butters.'Using'a'non,comedogenic'oil'doesn't'mean'you'won't'break'out:'It'just'means'it's'less'likely'to'clog'your'pores.'But'take'these'ratings'with'a'grain'of'salt.'As'I'mention'in'the'post'on'comedogenicity,'most'of'these'ratings'are'based'on'rabbit'ear'tests,'so'their'effect'on'human'skin'can'be'quite'different.'So'you'really'need'to'figure'out'what'works'for'you,'and'that'will'take'time'and'patience.'(This'is'where'we'get'into'the'"moisturizers'can'be'difficult"'part'of'my'statement.)''This'seems'like'a'good'list'of'comedogenicity.'http://www.soapnuts.com/noncomo.html''


Here'are'a'few'recipes'to'consider'as'we'learn'to'formulate'moisturizers.'As'a'note,'I'do'recommend'referring'to'these'recipes'because'I'm'not'going'to'be'going'into'great'detail'about'how'to'formulate'moisturizers'as'I've'covered'a'lot'of'it'in'these'posts.'I'll'concentrate,'instead,'on'various'ingredients'you'can'add'to'a'facial'product.''The'first'place'to'start'to'formulate'a'good'moisturizer'is'to'choose'a'recipe.'We'll'start'with'this'very'basic'recipe'and'tweak'it'until'we'get'something'we'like!'I'suggest'starting'with'a'basic'recipe'and'seeing'how'your'skin'reacts'to'it'before'adding'all'those'lovely'(and'expensive)'cosmeceuticals.'It'not'only'gives'you'a'chance'to'not'waste'money'if'you'don't'like'the'moisturizer,'but'it'gives'you'an'opportunity'to'see'what'your'skin'likes'and'doesn't'like'without'a'ton'of'possible'ingredients.''There'are'a'number'of'different'recipes'you'can'use'for'a'moisturizer'recipe,'and'since'I've'already'tweaked'the'heck'out'of'the'80%'water'recipe,'I'm'going'to'start'here'with'an'85%'water'recipe'and'work'with'this'for'this'section.'(I'will'include'a'few'more'as'we'go'along,'but'this'is'our'basic'recipe.)'''

BASIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&WATER'PHASE'85.5%'water''OIL'PHASE'8%'oils'4%'emulsifier'2%'thickener''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''This'would'make'a'fine'moisturizer'with'a'light'to'medium'consistency,'depending'upon'your'oils,'butters,'and'thickeners.'As'usual,'your'choice'of'oils'will'make'all'the'difference.'If'you'choose'heavier'oils,'this'will'be'heavier.'Choose'lighter'ones,'you'll'get'a'lighter'product.'If'you'have'dry'skin,'you'll'want'to'increase'the'oils'in'your'product;'if'you'have'oily'skin,'you'll'want'to'choose'some'"oil'free"'emollients'like'esters,'fatty'alcohols,'or'fatty'acids.''

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And'your'choice'of'emulsifier'is'important.'If'you'want'a'matte'finish,'your'first'choice'should'be'Incroquat'BTMS,50'(and'you'can'probably'eliminate'the'thickener'as'well,'which'is'a'bonus).'If'you'want'something'a'little'greasier'feeling,'then'Polawax'or'e,wax'should'be'your'first'choice.''So'let's'see'how'we'can'tweak'this'a'little'to'be'a'very'light,'matte'feeling'moisturizer'for'normal'skin.'''Water'phase:'I'can'use'all'water'here,'but'it'seems'a'pity'when'there'are'all'the'lovely'hydrosols,'proteins,'extracts,'and'so'on'that'can'take'this'moisturizer'from'good'to'freakin''awesome!''I'always'like'to'include'some'aloe'vera'in'my'products'for'moisturizing'and'reducing'inflammation,'and'I'find'10%'is'a'nice'level.'And'I'like'to'use'a'hydrosol'that'will'help'with'the'same'issues.'Rose'is'great'for'controlling'sebum,'lavender'for'soothing,'chamomile'for'anti,inflammation'and'soothing,'rosemary'for'controlling'really'oily'skin,'and'so'on.'Couple'this'with'a'nice'extract'suitable'for'your'skin'type'and'you've'got'a'great'combination'that'will'benefit'your'facial'skin.''Humectants'are'vital'in'a'facial'moisturizer.'We'can'get'some'great'moisturizing'from'our'emollients,'but'humectants'add'that'touch'of'non,oily'moisturizing'we'want'throughout'the'day.'We'have'tons'of'humectants'from'which'we'can'choose','glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA,'honeyquat,'panthenol,'tamarind'seed'extract,'and'more','and'I'like'to'use'them'at'3%'to'5%'in'a'moisturizer.'If'you'have'acne'prone'skin,'sodium'lactate'is'a'good'choice'as'it'can'help'with'acne'as'well'as'decreasing'transepidermal'water'loss'and'stimulate'ceramide'synthesis.'But'it'can'make'you'sun'sensitive,'so'use'it'at'2.5%'or'less.'Glycerin'is'another'fantastic'humectant'that'can'accelerate'the'recovery'from'damage'to'our'skin's'barrier'system'as'well'as'draw'water'to'our'skin,'but'it'can'feel'a'bit'sticky,'so'let's'use'that'at'around'3%'or'so.''Hydrolyzed'proteins'are'good'film'formers'and'moisturizers,'and'some'behave'as'humectants.'Adding'these'at'up'to'5%'in'our'water'phase'increases'moisturization'and'film'forming'properties.''And'there's'more'(I'm'sure'you'have'your'favourite'additives,'so'why'not'suggest'them'in'the'comments?)'you'can'add'to'the'water'phase.'If'it's'water'soluble'and'can'handle'heat,'then'throw'it'in'and'see'how'you'like'it.'


'Oil'phase:'Choose'one'really'good'oil'and'try'that'in'your'first'moisturizer'to'see'how'you'respond'to'it.'There'are'so'many'good'choices','I'm'going'to'work'with'pomegranate'oil'because'it'offers'a'ton'of'really'nice'polyphenols,'phytosterols,'and'fatty'acids'I'consider'great'for'our'skin.'You'can'use'any'oil'you'want,'but'for'the'purposes'of'this'post,'I'm'going'with'something'considered'a'dry'oil.''For'the'thickener,'cetyl'alcohol'is'always'my'first'choice'when'it'comes'to'facial'products.'We'want'maximum'slip'and'glide'and'as'we'know,'stearic'acid'doesn't'offer'those'properties'to'a'lotion.''For'the'emulsifier,'I'm'going'to'use'BTMS,50'to'offer'a'dry'feeling'and'matte'finish.''Cool'down'phase:'This'is'where'we'll'put'our'panthenol,'extracts,'and'so'on'into'the'mix.'I'm'going'to'add'5%'green'tea'extract'(liquid)'and'panthenol'to'the'mix,'so'I'll'have'to'remove'7%'from'the'water'phase'to'compensate.'

BASIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&FOR&NORMAL&SKIN&WATER'PHASE'51%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'rose'hydrosol'(or'another'hydrosol)'2.5%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'silk'protein'(or'any'other'protein)''OIL'PHASE'8%'pomegranate'oil'4%'Incroquat'BTMS,50'2%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'5%'liquid'green'tea'extract'2%'panthenol'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''So'there's'an'idea'for'a'moisturizer'for'normal'skin.'It'should'feel'light'and'less'greasy'on'your'skin'with'a'matte'finish.'You'can'add'whatever'you'like'to'it'to'make'it'more'


suitable'for'aging'skin'or'acne'prone'skin'or'sun'damaged'skin','just'remember'to'start'off'simple'and'work'your'way'to'more'complicated'when'you'see'how'your'skin'responds!''

AN,ASIDE:,SOME,THOUGHTS,ON,COSMECEUTICALS,There'are'so'many'ingredients'out'there'claiming'to'be'good'for'wrinkles'or'dark'circles'or'age'spots,'and'the'best'thing'you'can'do'when'you'come'upon'a'claim'like'this'is'to'research'it.'Some'anti,aging'ingredients'are'very'well'documented'(like'AHAs),'some'are'dubious,'and'some'need'more'research'to'come'to'any'conclusions.''Let's'say'you'come'upon'a'listing'for'Coenzyme'Q10'

(ubiquinone).'It's'listed'as'an'anti,oxidant'that'promotes'collagen'and'elastin'synthesis.'It'is'part'of'our'skin's'lipophilic'make'up,'and'that'generally'means'our'skin'can'benefit'from'it.'It'sounds'pretty'great,'but'if'we'take'a'closer'look'at'this'ingredient'we'see'that'it'has'a'high'molecular'weight,'which'means'it'isn't'likely'to'penetrate'our'skin'very'well.'Having'said'this,'one'study'found'that'it'can'penetrate'our'skin'enough'to'help'reduce'wrinkle'depth'and'prevent'the'negative'effects'of'UV'exposure.''There'is'a'synthetic'analogue'called'idebenone'that'is'a'lower'weight'molecule'that'will'penetrate'our'skin'more'effectively'than'Coenzyme'Q10'and'studies'have'shown'that'0.5%'to'1%'can'help'reduce'the'signs'of'aging,'such'as'a'reduction'in'skin's'roughness'and'dryness,'the'appearance'of'fine'lines'and'wrinkles,'and'the'appearance'of'sun'damage.'It'is'known'to'be'a'good'anti,oxidant'that'can'replenish'Vitamin'E's'anti,oxidizing'abilities'and'a'good'anti,inflammation'reducer.''Or'look'at'a'humectant'like'hyaluronic'acid'(HA','scroll'down'after'clicking'for'more'information).'It's'another'ingredient'we'can'find'in'our'skin,'but'the'actual'HA'molecules'we'apply'to'our'skin'won't'penetrate'it'as'it's'far'too'large.'This'doesn't'mean'it'can't'behave'as'an'awesome'humectant,'but'it'won't'be'able'to'do'the'things'you'hope'because'it'won't'actually'get'into'the'layers'of'skin'that'need'it.''When'you're'researching'an'ingredient,'one'of'the'important'questions'you'should'ask'yourself'is'can'it'penetrate'our'skin?'Something'might'sound'really'awesome,'but'if'it'only'works'if'you'eat'it'or'if'it'can'penetrate'your'skin,'it's'probably'pointless'to'put'it'in'

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a'lotion.'Look'for'information'on'the'topical'application'and'skin'penetration'of'the'ingredient'to'see'if'it's'worth'the'expense.''Another'thing'to'consider'is'that'a'lot'of'times,'the'ability'for'a'specific'cosmeceutical'ingredient'to'work'depends'upon'the'formula'and'the'version'of'the'ingredient'you're'using.'As'we'saw'in'the'post'on'Vitamin'C,'only'certain'types'of'this'ingredient'are'stable'in'our'products.'So'if'you'wish'to'use'this'ingredient,'can'you'put'it'into'your'normal'lotion'recipe'with'your'normal'processes'or'do'you'have'do'something'specific?''As%a%note,%I%am%also%putting%together%a%book%on%making%facial%products,%including%moisturizers,%facial%cleansers,%toners,%and%sera,%and%I%will%be%including%all%those%lovely%cosmeceutical%ingredients%in%that%e?book%as%this%is%getting%far%too%long!%%'


FORMULATING,DRIER,FEELING,LOTIONS,Let's'start'with'our'emulsifier.'Incroquat'BTMS,50'should'be'your'first'choice'in'emulsifiers'for'drier'feeling'lotions.'It'has'what's'called'a'"powdery"'feeling'on'your'skin,'and'it'll'condition'as'well,'so'that's'a'bonus.'It'can'also'act'as'the'conditioning'and'moisturizing'ingredient'in'oil,free'moisturizers.'Polawax,'e,wax,'and'most'of'the'combinations'we'can'use'in'the'HLB'system'will'all'feel'much'greasier'than'BTMS,50.''

We'should'also'consider'the'oils'we're'using'to'make'our'lotions'feel'more'powdery'or'dry.'You'll'want'some'drier'feeling'or'astringent'oils,'like'hazelnut,'macadamia'nut,'or'grapeseed'oils.'If'you'want'something'light,'consider'fractionated'coconut'oil','it's'not'low'on'the'greasiness'scale,'but'it'rubs'in'well'and'will'feel'very'light'on'your'skin.'Or'consider'the'exotic'oils.'Most'of'them'contain'a'lot'of'tannins'and'will'feel'dry,'like'

evening'primrose,'borage,'cranberry,'pomegranate,'and'so'on.'They're'more'expensive'than'regular'oils,'but'you'won't'need'much.''You'll'want'to'choose'mango'butter'or'kokum'butter,'as'both'are'considered'astringent,'although'they'll'both'feel'greasier'than'any'oil'you'choose.''And'you'll'want'to'consider'some'esters.'2%'IPP'or'IPM'can'make'a'world'of'difference'in'your'lotion','it's'considered'an'ester'that'makes'other'oils'and'esters'feel'less'greasy.'You'can'go'as'high'as'5%'in'your'lotions,'but'I'would'find'that'way'too'non,greasy'for'my'tastes!''Or'consider'some'esters.'Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'and'ethylhexyl'palmitate'are'all'considered'low'greasiness'esters.'And'they'all'feel'very'light,'which'is'a'bonus.'(Please'read'the'section'on'esters'for'more'information!)''

If'you're'looking'to'create'a'barrier,'consider'using'dimethicone'or'allantoin'instead'of'cocoa'butter.'Cocoa'butter,'although'lovely,'will'add'major'greasiness'to'your'product.'Consider'using'2%'dimethicone'as'the'barrier'ingredient'and'2%'cyclomethicone'to'offer'a'more'powdery'feeling'to'


your'product.'Using'0.5%'to'1%'allantoin'in'your'heated'water'phase'can'add'a'huge'amount'of'barrier'power'to'your'product,'but'make'sure'you'dissolve'it'well!''We'need'a'humectant'here.'I'm'going'to'use'honeyquat'at'3%'to'offer'some'conditioning'and'humectant'properties,'but'you'could'use'2%'sodium'lactate'or'2%'sodium'PCA.'I'wouldn't'use'glycerin'here'as'it'could'make'it'feel'a'little'sticky,'and'we're'trying'to'make'something'that'feels'lovely'and'powdery,'not'sticky.'If'you'want'to'use'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA,'add'it'in'the'water'phase'and'ignore'the'part'about'the'honeyquat'in'the'cool'down'phase.'Add'1%'more'water'to'the'mix'to'compensate.''Finally,'I'm'going'to'add'cetyl'alcohol'to'this'lotion'to'give'it'some'glide'without'tons'of'greasiness.'If'you'wanted'to'make'this'into'a'cream,'you'could'use'stearic'acid'to'give'it'more'body.'If'you'wanted'to'make'this'a'lighter'lotion,'I'd'suggest'using'cetyl'esters,'but'don't'use'vanilla'fragrances'with'it!'You'could'also'use'cetearyl'alcohol,'but'it'will'feel'more'occlusive'and'a'little'more'waxy.''So'let's'put'this'all'together'to'make'a'drier'feeling'lotion.'First'we’ll'create'a'template'for'an'80%'lotion,'then'we’ll'modify'it'slightly'to'make'it'drier!'Obviously,'you'can'modify'any'of'the'template'recipes'to'be'drier'feeling'products'–'this'is'just'an'example.'''

BASIC&DRY&FEELING&LOTION&(80%&water)&72%'water'2%'to'3%'humectant'(sodium'lactate'will'feel'drier'than'glycerin,'but'you'can'use'that'here,'too)''OIL'PHASE'5%'BTMS'3%'cetyl'alcohol'10%'oils'5%'butter'(optional,'just'increase'oils'to'15%'total)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'fragrance'oil'(optional)'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''For'this'recipe,'make'sure'you'choose'the'drier'feeling'oils'and'butters'I'mention'above.''


DRIER&FEELING&LOTION&WITH&ASTRINGENT&OILS&AND&BTMS[50& &WATER'PHASE'55.5%'water'0.5%'allantoin'10%'aloe'vera'or'other'hydrosol'(optional)''OIL'PHASE'6%'Incroquat'BTMS,50'3%'cetyl'alcohol,'stearic'acid,'or'cetyl'esters'5%'mango'or'kokum'butter'10%'macadamia'nut,'hazelnut,'grapeseed'oils'or'other'exotic'oils'of'choice'2%'IPM'or'IPP''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'2%'cyclomethicone'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'0.5%'to'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oils'3%'honeyquat'1%'Vitamin'E'(anti,oxidant,'optional)''This'should'make'a'medium'weight'lotion'that'feels'dry,'depending'upon'the'thickener'you'use.'As'a'note,'you'can'take'your'favourite'lotion'recipe'and'substitute'the'suggestions'I've'made'here'rather'than'trying'a'new'lotion'recipe'from'scratch!'''

FORMULATING,A,DRIER,FEELING,MOISTURIZER,OR,AFTER,SHAVE,LOTION,WITH,OILS,So'let's'say'you'made'the'previous'recipe,'but'still'consider'it'too'greasy'or'heavy'for'your'tastes.'It's'easy'to'make'a'very'light'feeling,'dry'lotion'by'taking'out'a'few'things'or'adding'a'few'things.'If'you'leave'out'the'thickener','stearic'acid,'cetyl'alcohol,'cetyl'esters,'or'cetearyl'alcohol','you'll'have'a'thinner'lotion.'If'you'leave'out'the'butter'and'substitute'more'oils,'you'll'have'a'thinner'lotion.'If'you'substitute'esters'


for'all'the'oils,'you'll'have'a'much'thinner'lotion'that'gives'you'more'time'to'rub'it'in'but'it'will'feel'very'light.''Let's'make'an'after'shave'type'lotion'filled'with'all'kinds'of'things'to'soothe'irritated'skin'and'moisturize'(although'it's'really'a'facial'moisturizer).'We'll'base'this'recipe'on'my'cationic'moisturizer'recipe,'which'is'a'good'product'for'someone'with'oily'skin'or'normal,to,oily'facial'skin.'You'can'use'this'as'a'moisturizer'on'all'parts'of'your'body','it's'not'intended'just'for'the'face,'but'it'is'thin'enough'to'use'on'your'face'and'I'm'leaving'out'ingredients'that'might'feel'very'heavy'or'might'be'comedogenic.''

BASIC&CATIONIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&WATER'PHASE'77.5%'water'(you'can'replace'10%'to'all'of'the'water'with'hydrosols'or'aloe'vera)'2,5%'humectant'of'choice'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'8%'oils'4%'BTMS,50'2%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'0.5%'extract'0.5%'another'extract''

If'you'wanted'to'make'this'as'an'after'shave'or'moisturizer,'we’ll'include'a'few'things'that'are'face'friendly.'We'could'include'white'willow'bark'or'salicylic'acid'as'an'exfoliant,'and'use'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'as'our'humectant'that'will'also'offer'some'help'with'possible'acne'or'blackheads.'I'like'to'add'a'cationic'polymer'to'the'mix'because'it'offers'moisturizing'and'conditioning,'so'polyquat'7'or'honeyquat'at'3%'would'be'a'welcome'addition.'We'can'

use'glycerin'in'this'recipe,'but'it'can'feel'a'bit'sticky'at'3%,'so'try'this'recipe'with'it'


before'you'go'using'all'kinds'of'exotic'and'expensive'ingredients!'I'know'I'mentioned'above'that'leaving'out'the'thickener'will'create'a'thinner'lotion,'but'I'like'the'moisturizing'of'the'cetyl'alcohol,'so'I'm'including'it'here.''As'a'note,'IPM'is'considered'comedogenic,'so'you'don't'normally'want'to'include'that'in'a'facial'moisturizer.'IPP'is'a'better'choice'if'you'want'to'add'an'ester'at'2%!'If'you'want'to'use'esters,'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'considered'non,comedogenic'and'has'decent'spreadability,'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'has'been'shown'in'studies'to'help'prevent'transepidermal'water'loss'from'wounds,'which'is'a'great'addition'in'an'after'shaving'product!''And'don't'forget'those'barrier'ingredients!'I'm'including'0.5%'allantoin'here,'and'you'could'add'2%'dimethicone'if'you'wanted.'Cocoa'butter'is'right'out'because'it's'very'comedogenic,'but'if'your'skin'can'handle'it,'up'to'5%'would'make'a'nice'barrier'cream'for'the'outdoors!''Oh,'and'our'oils.'We'll'choose'some'non,greasy'oils','I'think'I'll'go'with'borage'oil'in'this'recipe'as'it'contains'a'lot'of'gamma'linoleic'acid,'which'is'fantastic'for'helping'with'skin's'barrier'repair.'You'can'choose'any'oil'you'like,'but'I'd'suggest'using'less'greasy'feeling,'high'linoleic'or'gamma'linoleic'acid'oils'to'feel'light'and'help'with'your'skin's'barrier'repair.''So'let's'put'this'all'together!''

BASIC&MOISTURIZING&AFTER&SHAVE&RECIPE&WITH&OILS&WATER'PHASE'63%'water'10%'aloe'vera'(optional)'2%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'2%'polyquat'7'(or'2%'honeyquat'in'the'cool'down'phase)'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'10%'borage'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'4%'BTMS,50''


COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'salicylic'acid'or'white'willow'bark'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'0.5%'fragrance'(if'you're'using'it'just'as'an'after'shave)''When'I'make'after'shave'moisturizers,'I'like'to'package'it'in'an'aluminum'pump'bottle'to'look'very'manly.'I'labelled'my'last'batch'with'pictures'of'Godzilla'to'make'it'feel'more'masculine,'and'I'used'a'very'light'fragrance'(Green'Bamboo'for'some,'Wasabi'from'Brambleberry'for'others).'I'quite'liked'it,'but'for'some'reason'I'didn't'take'any'pictures!''

FORMULATING,A,DRIER,FEELING,MOISTURIZER,OR,AFTER,SHAVE,WITH,ESTERS,Esters'are'a'quick'and'easy'way'to'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'in'our'lotions.'Most'of'them'spread'very'well','better'than'oils','and'will'feel'lighter'on'our'skin.'So'let's'take'a'look'at'which'ones'we'can'use'in'an'after'shave'moisturizer'for'men!''There'are'three'esters'I'love'in'my'products','ethylhexyl'palmitate,'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'and'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate.'All'of'them'are'considered'non,comedogenic'and'light,'and'each'will'impart'less'greasiness'than'a'similar'weight'oil.'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'offers'occlusion'without'heaviness,'whereas'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'can'help'reduce'transepidermal'water'loss,'something'that'can'be'increased'by'nicks'and'cuts'after'shaving.'You'can'substitute'the'ethylhexyl'palmitate'for'dimethicone,'if'you're'not'a'fan'of'the'silicones,'or'use'it'at'up'to'5%'to'increase'the'silky'feeling'of'the'lotion.'I'm'not'using'it'in'this'recipe'because'I'm'looking'for'the'barrier'protecting'and'repairing'qualities'of'the'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'but'you'can'use'it'in'place'of'either'one.''IPM'or'IPP'is'a'great'choice'in'a'non,greasy'after'shave'lotion'as'it'reduces'the'feeling'of'greasiness'even'further,'but'if'you'have'issues'with'pimples'or'acne,'leave'it'out.'I'd'use'it'at'2%'in'a'non,after'shave'product'in'the'oil'phase.''So'let's'take'a'look'at'putting'together'a'light'feeling'lotion'with'esters!'You'll'notice'I'increased'the'esters'or'oil'phase'by'10%','I'did'this'because'I'want'maximum'protection'for'after'shaved'skin'and'because'it'will'feel'quite'light'with'20%'esters.''

Indre


LIGHT[FEELING,&LESS&GREASY&FEELING&LOTION&WITH&ESTERS&WATER'PHASE'51%'water'10%'aloe'vera'(optional)'2%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'2%'polyquat'7'(or'2%'honeyquat'in'the'cool'down'phase)'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'10%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'salicylic'acid'or'white'willow'bark'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'0.5%'fragrance'(if'you're'using'it'just'as'an'after'shave)''If'you'want'this'to'feel'even'lighter,'consider'removing'the'cetyl'alcohol'(and'increasing'the'water'amount)'or'replacing'it'with'cetyl'esters.'You'can'make'this'thicker'by'adding'stearic'acid'in'the'place'of'the'cetyl'alcohol.'If'you'want'to'make'this'more'conditioning,'consider'using'behenyl'alcohol'in'place'of'the'cetyl'alcohol.'''


'

CREATING,LOTIONS,WITH,MINIMALLY,PROCESSED,INGREDIENTS,As'I've'said'in'the'past,'I'm'going'to'consider'the'word'natural'to'mean'minimally'processed'because'everything'we'use'is'processed'in'some'way.'I'm'going'to'make'something'with'tons'of'botanical'and'minimally'processed'ingredients'that'offer'great'benefits'to'our'skin!'We'will'be'using'Polawax'in'this'recipe,'but'feel'free'to'use'the'emulsifier'of'your'choice'and'modify'it'accordingly.'(Note:'This'won't'translate'for'an'emulsifier'like'Sucragel,'but'if'you're'using'something'different,'you'probably'know'how'to'modify'a'lotion'for'that'emulsifier'already!)'And'we'will'be'using'a'preservative.'This'will'make'up'around'7%'of'the'recipe,'so'you'can'make'a'93%'minimally'

processed'lotion'easily.'This'recipe'is'suitable'for'vegans'(although'most,'if'not'all,'of'my'recipes'are'vegan'friendly,'except'those'with'beeswax'and'silk).''I'm'going'to'use'the'six'ingredient'recipe'with'shea,'soybean,'and'sesame'oil'as'the'basis'for'this'recipe'because'I've'been'using'it'throughout'this'e,book,'and'I'figure'we'might'as'well'be'consistent'in'our'tweaking!'You'can'apply'this'to'any'of'the'base'recipes'we've'used'in'the'series'so'far'or'any'other'recipe'you'like'(I'd'suggest'using'the'60%'water'recipe'here.)''WATER,SOLUBLE,INGREDIENTS,If'you'really'want'to'use'a'tea'or'infusion'in'a'lotion,'please'don't'unless'you're'really'experienced'at'this'kind'of'thing.'Instead,'choose'powdered'extracts'or'hydrosols'from'reputable'suppliers'who'preserve'the'product'well.''Please'don't'use'all'aloe'vera'as'your'liquid.'It'can'get'kind'of'sticky.'There'is'a'good'reason'to'use'water'in'our'products'and'that's'mainly'because'it's'a'good'hydrator.'It's'not'there'as'filler;'it's'there'to'offer'water'to'our'skin.'You'can'use'all'aloe'and'hydrosols'and'other'liquids'as'your'main'liquid,'but'don't'discount'the'value'of'nice,'pure'water.''So'let's'say'we'want'to'make'a'lotion'for'chapped'or'very'dry'skin.'What'can'we'use?'I'd'go'with'lavender'hydrosol,'chamomile'hydrosol'or'extract,'or'rosemary'hydrosol'or'extract.'(Click'here'for'extract'information.)'If'you'want'something'cooling,'consider'using'peppermint'hydrosol'as'well.'So'let's'choose'lavender'and'peppermint'hydrosol'


with'rosemary'extract'and'chamomile'extract.'We'll'use'20%'of'each'hydrosol'and'0.5%'of'each'extract.'(You'could'also'use'rosemary'essential'oil,'but'that'might'be'much'on'your'skin.'Although'lavender,rosemary'is'a'really'nice'combination.)'And'make'up'the'rest'with'aloe'vera'(18%).'Remove'1%'one'of'the'water'phase'ingredients'for'the'extracts.''What'can'we'use'as'a'humectant?'We'could'use'glycerin,'tamarind'seed'extract,'and'other'ingredients.'I'm'going'with'glycerin','vegetable'glycerin,'although'I'have'no'idea'where'you'd'get'non,vegetable'glycerin.''And'you'can'include'allantoin'if'you'want'a'barrier'ingredient'in'there'at'0.5%'in'either'the'heated'water'phase'or'the'cool'down'phase.''OIL,SOLUBLE,INGREDIENTS,

Our'oils'and'butters'are'easily'considered'natural'or'minimally'processed.'So'choose'what'you'like'here.'If'you'want'a'less'greasy'lotion,'choose'drier'feeling'oils'and'butters.'If'you'want'a'greasy'feeling'lotion,'choose'greasier'feeling'oils'and'butters.'You'can'keep'the'shea,'sesame,'and'soybean'oil'for'a'greasier'feeling'lotion'and'something'like'hazelnut,'macadamia'nut,'and'mango'for'a'drier'feeling'product.'If'you'want'a'barrier'ingredient'in'there,'choose'cocoa'butter'for'this'product.''Because'we'can't'rely'on'esters'like'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'or'

IPM/IPP'to'reduce'our'greasiness,'we'have'to'rely'on'choosing'our'oils'well'to'get'our'skin'feel.'Please'remember'as'well,'what'we'consider'greasy'in'a'commercial'lotion'isn't'the'same'as'what'we'consider'greasy'in'a'homemade'lotion.'Even'with'tons'of'shea'butter,'I'have'yet'to'find'a'homemade'lotion'that'is'as'greasy'as'something'like'Jergen's,'so'really'think'about'the'end'skin'feel'you'want'as'you'review'the'emollients'you'have'in'your'workshop.''I'm'not'sure'if'cetyl'alcohol'or'stearic'acid'or'any'of'our'other'fatty'alcohols'or'acids'are'considered'minimally'processed'or'natural,'so'if'you'want'to'include'any'of'those'at'3%,'feel'free'to'remove'3%'from'the'butter'and'add'it'to'the'mix.''So'our'oil'soluble'phase'remains'the'same,'although'you'can'tweak'it'with'whatever'oils'and'butters'you'like.'


'COOL,DOWN,PHASE,I'know'liquid'Germall'Plus'probably'isn't'considered'natural,'so'you'might'want'to'consider'another'preservative'for'this'product.'Citric,acid,and,Vitamin,E,are,not,preservatives;,they're,anti[oxidants.,Grapefruit,seed,extract,is,not,a,preservative,,and,using,something,like,potassium,sorbate,alone,is,not,a,broad,spectrum,preservative.'I'know'preservatives'are'a'hot'topic'in'the'natural'community,'so'if'you'don't'want'to'make'a'water'based'product'with'a'preservative,'then'please'consider'making'an'anhydrous'or'“without'water”'product'instead.'You'really'need'a'preservative'in'anything'that'contains'water'as'you'will'attract'beasties'to'your'product.'You're'only'using'0.5%'to'1.5%'in'this'lotion,'so'please'don't'make'anything'without'a'preservative.'I'll'get'off'my'soapbox'now...''This'is'where'we'include'our'extracts.'You'can'combine'extracts'in'all'kinds'of'ways,'but'make'sure'you'aren't'combining'two'exfoliating'extracts'in'the'same'product'(things'like'pineapple'and'papaya'or'white'willow'bark'and'strawberry,'for'instance).'''And'consider'your'essential'oils'wisely.'Although'something'like'lime'eucalyptus'(50,50)'smells'awesome,'too'much'can'make'you'sun'sensitive'(as'can'most,'if'not'all,'of'the'citrus'essential'oils).'You'aren't'necessarily'using'them'at'1%'each'as'we'would'with'a'fragrance'oil,'so'consult'some'good'references'on'essential'oils'and'blending'them'before'adding'them'willy,nilly'to'your'products.'I'like'a'combination'of'lime'and'vanilla'(75%'vanilla','25%'lime)'for'a'lovely'key'lime'pie'type'smell.''So'here's'an'idea'for'an'oilier'version'of'a'botanical'recipe.'

BOTANICAL&LOTION&[&92%&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&(oilier&version)&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'20%'lavender'hydrosol'20%'peppermint'hydrosol'17%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'7.5%'emulsifier'


'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'powdered'rosemary'extract'0.5%'powdered'chamomile'extract'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'essential'oil''As'a'note,'I've'increased'the'emulsifier'to'7.5%'to'make'up'25%'of'the'oil'phase'as'I'm'using'Polawax'here.'If'I'were'to'use'BTMS,50'as'in'the'original'recipe,'I'could'keep'it'at'6%'as'it'requires'less'to'emulsify.'The'change'has'nothing'to'do'with'the'botanical'nature'of'this'recipe.''

GREAT,QUESTION:,WHY,CAN’T,WE,USE,TEA,IN,OUR,PRODUCTS?,I'm'asked'all'the'time'about'how'to'make'infusions'or'steeped'teas'for'use'in'our'products,'and'I'generally'give'the'same'answer','don't.'I'know'it'sounds'like'a'great'idea'to'use'something'like'green'tea','both'plentiful'and'inexpensive'at'the'local'grocery'store','but'inexperienced'formulators'can'make'a'really'lovely'product'turn'bad'in'a'few'short'days'if'it'isn't'well'preserved.'

'Botanical'ingredients'are'harder'to'preserve'than'non,botanical'ingredients,'and'you'definitely'want'to'use'a'good'broad'spectrum'preservative'for'any'products'in'which'you're'using'powdered'or'liquid'extracts.'(Even'though'most'hydrosols'and'other'liquid'botanical'ingredients'contain'preservatives,'there's'only'enough'for'that'ingredient,'not'your'entire'batch.)''Think'of'it'this'way.'Would'you'drink'a'cup'of'tea'you'd'steeped'seven'days'ago?'No.'Because'it'would'be'contaminated'with'all'kinds'of'nasty'things'that'would'make'the'tea'taste'horrible'and'your'stomach'feel'queasy.'It's'the'same'way'with'the'infusions.'You'simply'can't'remove'all'the'bits'and'pieces'from'the'tea'or'infusion,'and'those'bits'and'pieces'attract'contamination.'Even'if'you'can'remove'every'last'molecule'of'the'tea'leaf,'you'll'still'get'bacteria'and'fungi'that'can't'wait'to'swim'in'that'lukewarm'broth.'This'works'the'same'way'with'an'infusion'of'lavender'or'calendula'or'other'botanicals'we'find'in'our'suppliers''shops.''


It'is'possible'to'make'an'infusion'with'those'lovely'herbs'and'flowers,'but'you'need'to'be'an'experienced'formulator'who'uses'preservatives'at'the'maximum'level'and'has'access'to'testing'facilities'or'supplies.'You'need'to'know'how'to'infuse,'store,'and'preserve'the'products'well'to'ensure'you'won't'see'a'layer'of'brownish'goo'floating'in'your'tea'a'few'days'later.'(You'do'not'want'to'hear'the'story'of'the'bottle'of'unpreserved'aloe'vera'I'once'bought'from'Wal,Mart!'Let's'just'say'it'was'a'good'example'of'why'we'preserve'our'products!'Ick!)''If'you're'a'novice,'please'just'buy'the'extracts'or'hydrosols'and'enjoy'them.'Then'find'someone'who'has'a'lot'of'experience'in'the'area'of'making'infusions'and'ask'them'for'help'(that'person'isn't'me,'by'the'way)'so'you'can'learn'how'to'do'it'right.'I'know'it'sounds'lovely'to'steep'some'green'tea'and'use'that'as'the'liquid'in'that'body'butter'or'facial'cleanser,'but'if'you'don't'do'it'right,'you're'bathing'in'bacteria!''

ECOCERT,PRESERVATIVES:,Introduction,Katie'posed'this'question:'I%also%read%that%you%do%not%consider%there%to%be%any%natural%preservative.%Your%post%was%from%a%little%while%ago,%so%maybe%you%have%changed%your%thoughts%on%this?%%'I'should'clarify'that'sentence','there'are'"natural"*'preservatives,'but'I'have'yet'to'find'one'comparable'to'something'like'liquid'Germall'Plus.'Each'one'I've'looked'at','and'I'admit'that'I've'only'been'looking'at'those'from'Lotioncrafter'or'the'Herbarie','have'down'sides'or'restrictions'that'make'it'impossible'to'use'the'preservative'with'more'than'a'few'products'I'make.'Don't'use'in'a'product'over'pH'6,'don't'expose'to'light,'don't'use'with'cationic'ingredients,'don't'freeze,'and'so'on.'On'top'of'this,'they'all'cost'far'more'than'the'conventional'preservatives'like'liquid'Germall'Plus,'Germaben'II,'Phenonip,'and'so'on.''Although'having'written'this'I'realize'that'everything'will'have'some'kind'of'restriction.'I'guess'I'm'just'hindered'more'by'the'three'preservatives'I’ll'be'writing'about'than'I'would'be'with'liquid'Germall'Plus.''May'I'rant'for'a'moment?'One'of'the'things'I'find'with'the'more'vocal'proponents'of'the'natural'movement'is'an'unwillingness'to'follow'good'manufacturing'practices'like'heating'and'holding'our'products'(I'm'not'saying'everyone'does'it,'but'when'I'see'suppliers'who'recommend'heating'our'lotion'phases'in'a'microwave,'I'start'to'get'


worried!)'I'm'really'confused'as'to'why'this'might'be'because'it's'a'great'way'to'ensure'the'products'will'last'over'time'and'not'subject'ourselves,'our'loved'ones,'and'possibly'our'customers'to'unsafe'products.'If'you'follow'good'manufacturing'processes,'you'll'make'a'very'good'lotion'that'will'not'need'the'maximum'levels'of'preserving'to'avoid'contamination!'This'is'one'of'the'first'things'I’d'do'if'I'wanted'to'make'a'minimally'processed'product'–'follow'the'good'manufacturing'processes'you’ll'find'in'this'e,book,'my'blog,'and'other'great'sites'for'bath'&'body'products.'''*Footnote:'As'you'well'know,'my'wonderful'readers,'I'have'no'idea'how'to'define'natural'any'more,'so'for'the'purposes'for'this'discussion,'I'm'going'with'ingredients'that'are'Ecocert.''

ECOCERT,PRESERVATIVES:,Advanced,Aloe,Leuicdal,Advanced'Aloe'Leucidal'or'Aloe'Advanced'Leucidal'or'Leucidal'Advanced'Aloe'INCI'Water'(and)'Leuconostoc/Aloe'barbadensis'Leaf/'Sorbus'Aucuparia'Fruit'Ferment'Filtrate','click'here'for'link'at'Lotioncrafter.''

Water'soluble,'so'not'for'use'with'oil'only'products'like'sugar'scrubs'or'lotion'bars.'Recommended'usage'at'2%'to'4%'in'the'cool'down'phase'(4%'for'really'hard'to'preserve'products)'with'a'shelf'life'of'12'months.'It'has'a'pH'range'of'3'to'8'but'works'best'with'ingredients'that'have'a'pH'of'6'or'less.''This'preservative'is'compatible'with'most'non,ionic'emulsifiers'(like'Polawax),'cationic'emulsifiers'(like'BTMS,50),'and'anionic'and'amphoteric'surfactants,'but'isn't'compatible'with'strongly'anionic'surfactants'or'emulsifiers'or'xanthan'gum.'It'may'or'may'not'be'compatible'with'Ritamulse'SCG'(known'as'Ecomulse'at'Lotioncrafter'and'Natramulse'at'the'Herbarie),'and'isn't'compatible'with'Plantamulse'liquid'(INCI'Sorbitan'Laurate'(and)'Polyglyceryl,4'Laurate'(and)'Dilauryl'Citrate),'Plantamulse'pastilles'(INCI'Polyglyceryl,3'Methyglucose'Distearate),'or'Sugarmulse'(INCI'Cetearyl'Alcohol'(and)'Cetearyl'Glucoside),'according'to'the'Herbarie's'listing'for'this'ingredient.'Lotioncrafter'notes'there'can'be'some'instability'over'time'with'Ritamulse'SCG/Ecomulse/Natramulse,'but'doesn't'note'it'is'incompatible.''


My,experience?'(Remember,'anecdotes'don't'make'data,'but'I'thought'I'd'share'my'opinion.)'This'really'doesn't'work'well'with'lotions'if'the'product'isn't'ultra'mega'super'cooled'when'you'add'it.'I'tried'it'a'few'times'at'50˚C,'and'the'lotion'seized'within'a'30'seconds,'whereas'waiting'until'it'reached'40˚C'resulted'in'a'non,failed'lotion.'The'product'claims'to'be'heat'stable,'but'I'really'didn't'find'that'to'be'the'case.''I'did'try'this'in'a'body'wash'with'my'normal'surfactants'(cocamidopropyl'betaine,'DLS'mild,'C14,16'olefin'sulfonate)'and'in'a'body'wash'with'polyglucose/lactylate'blend'and'decyl'glucoside'and'so'far'it's'holding'up'(it's'been'since'early'June,'so'3'months'and'no'visible'contamination'in'either'bottle).'Because'I'used'a'lot'of'aloe'vera,'lavender'hydrosol,'and'chamomile'extracts,'I'used'the'preservative'at'3%'to'ensure'good'preservation.''If'I'were'to'use'this'ingredient'as'one'of'my'main'preservatives,'I'would'use'it'in'lotions'with'Polawax'or'other'e,wax'or'BTMS,50'as'the'emulsifiers.'I'wouldn't'use'it'with'Ritamulse/Ecomulse/Natramulse'because'of'the'possibility'of'epic'lotion'failure.'To'be'honest,'I'really'wouldn't'use'this'for'lotions.'I'would'keep'this'for'surfactant'based'products','shampoos,'body'washes,'bubble'bath,'facial'cleansers','with'a'pH'of'6'or'under''Click'here'for'a'data'sheet'from'the'company'on'Leucidal'Advanced','Aloe.'http://www.activemicrotechnology.com/images/M15015,Leucidal_Advanced,Aloe,Technical_Data_Sheet,v5.pdf''

ECOCERT,PRESERVATIVES:,Liquid,Leucidal,Liquid'Leucidal'INCI:'Leuconostoc/Radish'Root'Ferment'Filtrate''From'Lotioncrafter:'"Derived'from'radishes'fermented'with'Leuconostoc'kimchii,'a'lactic'acid'bacteria'that'has'

traditionally'been'used'to'make'kimchi,'this'product'consists'of'an'isolated'peptide'that'is'secreted'from'the'bacteria'during'the'fermentation'process'that'has'been'shown'to'have'antimicrobial'benefits."''Liquid'Leucidal'is'a'water'soluble'broad'spectrum'preservative'best'used'at'under'70˚C'(cool'down'phase)'at'2%'to'4%.'It'may'not'be'compatible'with'some'cationic'


ingredients,'so'be'careful'using'this'in'hair'care'products'(conditioners,'leave,in'conditioners,'shampoos'with'cationic'polymers),'body'care'products'in'which'you'might'be'using'cationic'polymers,'or'lotions'in'which'you'might'use'BTMS.''A%disclaimer%about%this%last%sentence:%I%wasn't%able%to%confirm%the%information%about%incompatibility%with%cationic%ingredients%anywhere%but%the%Herbarie.%We%saw%yesterday%that%Advanced%Aloe%Leucidal%was%incompatible%with%some%cationic%ingredients,%but%that%doesn't%mean%that%this%product%is%incompatible%with%cationic%ingredients,%too.%I%would%expect%the%data%sheets%from%the%company%(see%below)%to%provide%some%information%on%incompatibilities,%and%I%didn't%find%anything%about%avoiding%cationic%ingredients,%so%use%them%at%your%own%risk.%In%my%experiments,%I%avoided%cationic%ingredients%?%primarily%cationic%polymers%?%just%to%be%on%the%safe%side.%%'The'company'claims'that'1%'liquid'Leucidal'can'increase'moisturization'of'our'skin'by'10%'thanks'to'the'isolated'peptide.''This'preservative'would'be'suitable'for'all'your'products'that'contain'water,'although'I'recommend'that'you'ensure'your'product'is'at'45˚C'or'lower'before'including'it'in'the'cool'down'phase.'I'tried'it'with'lotions'and'twice'the'product'seized'horribly'(once'at'50˚C,'the'other'at'52˚C),'meaning'it'curdled'almost'instantly'and'didn’t'go'back'to'being'a'lovely,'liquidy'lotion.'I've'tried'it'with'Polawax'and'Ecomulse'(aka'Ritamulse)'and'found'no'difference'(in'the'ones'that'didn't'seize,'but'that'was'a'temperature'thing).''I've'tried'it'with'a'body'wash'and'a'bubble'bath'and'found'no'problems'in'incorporating'it'into'the'cool'down'phase.'So'far,'all'of'these'products'show'no'visible'contamination.''Here's'the'data'sheet'on'this'product'from'Lotioncrafter!'And'here's'a'data'sheet'with'information'on'the'moisturizing'properties'of'just'1%'of'liquid'Leucidal.'And'here's'a'Powerpoint'presentation'with'some'sample'formulae.'http://www.lotioncrafter.com/reference/Tech_Data_Leucidal_Liquid_v6.pdf'http://activemicrotechnology.com/images/M15008,Leucidal_Liquid,Technical_Data_Sheet,v8.pdf'http://www.hcbio.com.tw/pdf/AMS,Leucidal,Liquid,e.pdf''

ECOCERT,PRESERVATIVES:,NataPres,NataPres'


INCI:'Glycerin'(and)'Leuconostoc/Radish'Root'Ferment'Filtrate'(and)'Lonicera'Japonica'(Honeysuckle)'Flower'Extract'(and)'Lonicera'Caprifolium'(Honeysuckle)'Extract'(and)'Populus'Tremuloides'Bark'Extract'(and)'Gluconolactone.''NataPres'is'a'water'soluble'preservative'that'should'be'added'in'the'cool'down'phase'at'50˚C'or'lower.'It'is'good'against'gram'positive'and'gram'negative'bacteria,'but'the'company'suggests'you'add'a'little'something'more'if'you'want'to'boost'its'efficacy'against'fungi'and'yeast,'so'it's'not'considered'a'broad'spectrum'preservative.'Its'suggested'usage'is'0.5%'to'3%'in'the'cool'down'phase'of'your'product.'Keep'the'sealed'container'of'preservative'away'from'sunlight,'and'I'd'suggest'keeping'the'finished'product'in'an'opaque'container'just'to'be'safe.''We'know'about'the'leuconostoc/radish'root'ferment'filtrate'found'in'Leuicidal,''and'it's'the'main'preservative'in'that'product.'Honeysuckle'extract'is'interesting'because'it'contains'natural'parabens,'but'it'may'not'be'as'effective'a'preservative'as'once'thought.'The'gluconolactone'is'added'to'be'a'chelating'and'sequestering'ingredient'(like'EDTA),'a'free'radical'scavenger,'and'a'moisturizer'that'is'on'par'with'about'2%'glycerin.'(This'isn't'to'say'that'the'gluconolactone'will'behave'this'way'in'your'product.)'

'The'Populus'Tremuloides'Bark'Extract'comes'from'the'quaking'or'trembling'aspen,'and'it'can'be'found'on'its'own'as'Natricide.'In'this'product,'you'd'find'it'at'54%'to'60%,'whereas'in'NataPres'product'you'l'find'it'at'a'maximum'of'20%.''I'find'the'ratios'of'ingredients'in'this'preservative'interesting.'The'glycerin'is'listed'at'60%'to'70%,'the'radish'

ferment'filtrate'at'20%'to'25%,'with'the'next'three'extracts'listed'at'1%'to'20%,'with'the'gluconolactone'listed'last'0.01%'to'10%.'If'we'do'the'math,'if'we'have'glycerin'at'the'least'at'60%'and'the'radish'ferment'filtrate'at'20%,'we'only'have'20%'left'for'the'honeysuckle'and'aspen'extracts.'So'what'is'the'main'preservative'here?'It'appears'to'be'the'radish'root'filtrate,'but'this'product'doesn't'promise'to'be'as'broad'spectrum'as'the'Leucidal'products','and'it's'from'the'same'manufacturer','so'I'm'feeling'a'bit'confused.'Is'it'the'glycerin'that'makes'it'less'effective?'I'really'don't'know.''A'big'down'side'of'this'preservative'is'the'need'to'keep'it'in'an'opaque'container'away'from'the'sun.'It'reminds'me'a'bit'of'working'with'Tinosan.'The'other'big'down'side'is'


the'need'for'another'preservative'that'is'better'with'fungi'and'yeast.'You'might'consider'using'an'organic'acid'like'potassium'sorbate'or'sodium'benzoate'as'a'secondary'preservative,'or'something'like'Optiphen.'But'I'don't'think'those'things'are'Ecocert,'so'you'might'have'a'problem'there.''If'you'want'to'know'more'about'this'preservative,'click'here'for'a'really'extensive'PDF'from'Lotioncrafter.'http://www.lotioncrafter.com/reference/NataPres_Dossier_Aug_2010.pdf''

COMMENT&FROM&A&READER&ABOUT&THIS&PRESERVATIVE&K.M.'Parker'wrote…,I'purchased'Natapres'roughly'3'weeks'ago'and'tried'it'in'a'basic'olive'oil'lotion'right'away'at'1%.'Today'the'lotion'has'a'nice'coat'of'mold'over'the'top'so'I'put'it'in'the'garage'to'let'it'grow'more.'I'live'in'AZ,'and'when'I'got'the'package'it'was'probably'close'to'90'degrees'maybe'more'so'that'may'have'something'to'do'with'the'growth.''

CREATING,A,BODY,BUTTER,WITH,MINIMALLY,PROCESSED,INGREDIENTS,Let’s'make'a'body'butter'.'Again,'I'm'going'to'use'an'emulsifier'and'a'preservative,'which'means'I'can't'have'a'100%'minimally'processed'product.'But'we'can'go'for'something'on'par'with'92%'minimally'processed'ingredients!''What'ingredients'do'we'want'in'a'body'butter?'I'definitely'want'a'butter,'and'the'one'you'choose'will'depend'upon'the'skin'feel'you'want.'Choose'a'greasy'

feeling'butter,'and'you'll'have'a'greasy'feeling'product.'Choose'a'drier'feeling'butter,'and'you'll'have'a'drier'feeling'product.'Because'we'aren't'using'things'like'IPM'or'IPP'or'other'esters'in'this'recipe,'you'really'have'to'choose'your'oils'and'butters'well'with'your'preferred'skin'feel'in'mind.''If'you'want'something'with'great'barrier'protection,'choose'cocoa'butter'and'allantoin'(at'0.5%'in'the'heated'water'phase).'If'you'want'some'less'greasy,'choose'mango'butter.'For'something'with'more'greasiness,'choose'shea'butter.'There'are'tons'of'other'butters'to'choose'from','avocado'butter'is'dry'feeling,'babassu'oil'will'feel'drier'and'


melt'on'contact'with'your'skin'but'isn't'as'thick'as'the'true'butters,'and'so'on.'We'll'experiment'with'a'few'for'this'body'butter'recipe'in'the'next'few'days.''I'think'it'goes'without'saying'that'we'also'need'to'choose'our'oils'well'for'the'skin'feel.'I'think'I've'gone'on'and'on'lately'about'what'will'give'you'a'drier'or'greasier'skin'feel,'so'you'know'which'ones'to'choose'(hazelnut,'avocado,'and'macadamia'nut'for'less'greasy,'the'rest'for'more'greasy).''What'water'soluble'ingredients'do'you'want'in'this'product?'This'will'also'depend'upon'why'you'are'making'this'product','oops,'did'you'notice'I'didn't'ask'myself'the'essential'questions?'This'is'why'I'm'kind'of'flailing!''What,kind,of,product,do,I,want,to,make?,Is,it,a,moisturizer,,body,milk,,lotion,,cream,,or,butter?,For,which,body,part,is,this,intended?,What,kind,of,skin,feel,do,I,want?,Do,I,have,a,specific,outcome,in,mind?,For,what,skin,type,am,I,making,this?,'I'want'to'make'a'body'butter'for'my'husband's'really'itchy'winter'skin.'He's'scratching'his'back'and'chest'horribly'right'now,'leaving'big'scratch'marks'and'sores'(we're'experiencing'record'lows'in'temperature'and'humidity'right'now!).'I'want'to'choose'something'occlusive'and'really'moisturizing'to'alleviate'the'itchiness'he's'experiencing.'I'want'to'choose'something'that'won't'be'bad'for'broken'skin,'and'I'want'to'try'to'do'what'I'can'to'heal'the'wounds'that'are'already'there.'He's'not'a'fan'of'greasiness'on'his'hands'after'he's'applied'his'product,'so'I'have'to'choose'something'that'will'do'all'these'things,'but'not'feel'too'greasy'(although'I'm'really'the'one'putting'it'on'his'back...)''My'first'thought'is'to'put'it'some'cocoa'butter'as'a'barrier'ingredient,'which'will'offer'both'emolliency'and'a'layer'of'protection'for'his'poor'sore'back!'I'think'I'll'also'use'some'mango'butter'not'only'to'decrease'greasiness'but'to'add'some'great'polyphenols,'like'gallic'acid,'that'will'help'heal'wounds'(not'a'claim,'but'a'wish!).''For'my'oils,'I'want'one'filled'with'phytosterols'and'linoleic'acid'to'help'with'healing'skin's'barrier'repair'and'reducing'itchiness.'I'm'thinking'evening'primrose'as'it's'filled'with'GLA,'which'is'great'for'skin's'barrier'repair,'but'it's'not'filled'with'phytosterols.'Pomegranate'oil'with'its'wonderful'punicic'acid'and'phytosterols'would'be'another'good'choice.'Because'I'm'using'10%'oils,'I'm'considering'these'exotic'oils'because'they'are'dry'feeling'and'because'I'm'not'using'a'ton.'Or'I'could'use'my'great,for,everything'soy'bean'oil,'which'is'brimming'over'with'linoleic'acid'and'phytosterols.'


'So'I'think'I'll'go'with'a'mango,'cocoa,'and'soy'bean'mix'for'my'butters'and'oils.''On'to'the'water'phase!'I'definitely'want'some'aloe'vera'in'this'product,'and'I'think'I'll'go'with'some'chamomile'hydrosol'and'some'chamomile'extract'for'double'chamomile,y'fun'(it's'an'anti,inflammatory'and'possible'wound'healer)!'I'think'I'll'use'some'witch'hazel'at'10%'because'it'could'be'a'good'wound'healer.''Because'his'skin'is'really'dry,'I'want'to'load'up'on'humectants.'I'realize'that'humectants'draw'water'from'the'atmosphere'and'I'realize'we'don't'have'a'ton'of'water'in'our'atmosphere'right'now,'it'can't'hurt'to'use'a'few'of'them'here'for'when'the'weather'gets'a'little'wetter'(as'we're'expecting'today'with'a'snowfall'warning!)'I'm'going'with'at'least'3%'glycerin'here.'But'I'm'not'sure'what'other'humectants'I'own'are'considered'natural.'I'do'have'some'tamarind'seed'extract,'and'it's'recommended'use'is'up'to'5%,'so'I'think'I'll'use'this'at'the'maximum'amount'(link'to'the'Herbarie,'where'I'bought'this).''I'm'not'sure'if'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'is'considered'natural,'but'I'want'to'use'it'here'at'2%.'(If'it'isn't,'leave'it'out.)'It's'a'great'moisturizing'ingredient'that'has'some'hygroscopic'qualities,'and'I'think'it'will'help'my'husband's'skin.'And'I'need'to'include'allantoin'as'it'behaves'as'a'humectant,'moisturizer,'and'barrier'ingredient.''

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&WATER'PHASE'25%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'witch'hazel'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'5%'tamarind'seed'extract'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'10%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'cocoa'butter'7.5%'mango'butter'7%'emulsifier*'


'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''As'you'can'see'from'this'section'of'the'e,book,'a'natural'lotion'isn't'that'far'off'from'one'of'my'usual'products,'and'it's'easy'to'tweak'any'lotion'you'find'to'contain'more'minimally'processed'ingredients.'The'big'changes'I've'noticed'are'twofold:'I'can't'use'my'greasiness'modifiers'like'IPP,'IPM,'or'esters,'so'I'need'to'focus'on'which'oils'bring'which'quality'to'my'lotion.'And'I'can't'use'my'silicones.'(And'I'm'not'sure'if'ingredients'like'panthenol'and'sodium'lactate'are'considered'natural,'so'I'left'them'out.)''If'you'want'to'make'natural'lotions,'there'are'a'few'options'for'emulsifiers'that'are'considered'organic'or'Ecocert.'The'two'that'I'm'experimenting'with'at'the'moment'are'Sucragel'and'Ritamulse'(also'known'as'Ecomulse'or'Natramulse'at'some'suppliers).''And'no'matter'what'lotion'you're'making,'don't'forget'the'preservative.'Better'to'have'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'in'your'product'than'50%'bacteria'and'mould!'


ESTERS:,THE,CHEMISTRY,OF,ESTERS!,,Okay,'get'ready'for'a'little'organic'chemistry.'I'know,'I'can'hear'some'of'you'saying,'"But'it's'summer.'We'don't'have'to'learn!"'but'it's'a'fascinating'journey'into'the'world'of'esters'and'I'know'you'll'have'fun!''

What,is,an,ester?'(From'Wikipedia)'Esters'are'chemical'compounds'derived'by'reacting'an'oxoacid'(one'containing'an'oxo'group,'X=O)'with'a'hydroxyl'compound'such'as'an'alcohol'or'phenol.'Esters'are'usually'derived'from'an'inorganic'acid'or'organic'acid'in'which'at'least'one',OH'(hydroxyl)'group'is'replaced'by'an',O,alkyl'(alkoxy)'group,'and'most'commonly'

from'carboxylic'acids'and'alcohols.''So'what'does'this'mean'to'us?'What'is'means'is'that'esters'can'be'derived'from'a'carboxylic'acid'(which'is'an'acid'that'contains'oxygen)'with'a'hydroxyl'compound'(one'that'contains'an'oxygen'atom'bonded'to'a'hydrogen'group).'The'carboxylic'acid'can'be'a'fatty'acid'like'oleic'acid'(C18:1)'or'stearic'acid'(C18)'or'any'of'the'fatty'acids'we'find'in'our'oils.'The'hydroxyl'group'differs'depending'upon'how'the'ester'is'processed.'(If'you'want'to'learn'more'about'how'esters'are'processed,'click'here.)'It'can'be'an'alcohol'like'ethanol'or'a'fatty'alcohol'like'cetyl'alcohol'or'sodium'hydroxide'(lye,'NaOH).''You'can'figure'out'what'kind'of'ester'you'have'by'analyzing'the'name.'The'first'part','the'ethyl'in'the'picture'above','comes'from'the'carboxylic'acid.'The'second'part','the'ethanoate','comes'from'the'adding',oate'to'the'name'of'the'hydroxyl'chain.'(The'hydroxyl'chain'here'could'be'ethanol,'hence'the'eth,'part.)'So'you'can'determine'that'you'have'an'ester'of'the'carboxylic'acid'ethanoic'acid'(also'called'acetic'acid,'what'you'find'in'vinegar)'and'an'ethyl'group.'(As'a'note,'eth,'in'organic'chemistry'means'2,'meaning'two'carbon'atoms'in'the'chain.'If'you'see'something'like'methane,'the'meth,'part'means'1,'so'there's'one'carbon'atom'in'the'chain.)''To'relate'this'to'the'esters'we'use'in'our'bath'&'body'products,'if'you'have'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'then'you'can'determine'this'was'derived'from'the'cetearyl'fatty'acid.'Cetyl'is'also'known'as'palmityl'alcohol'and'palm,'means'16'carbon'atoms.'The'prefix'stear,'means'18'carbon'atoms,'like'in'stearic'acid.''The'ethylhex,'part'means'it'has'8'carbon'atoms'in'the'hydroxyl'compound'and'the',oate'part'is'how'you'know'it's'an'ester.'


'As%a%note,%cetearyl%alcohol%is%a%combination%of%stearic%and%cetyl%alcohol%?%C18%and%16%fatty%alcohol%chains%?%so%it's%two%great%things%in%one!%I%probably%should%have%picked%a%better%example%here.%'

Another'well'known'ester'is'isopropyl'myristate'or'IPM,'which'doesn't'follow'this'naming'convention'(more'

about'this'below).'The'myristate'part'indicates'comes'from'myristic'acid'(C14).'The'propyl'part'means'the'hydroxyl'compound'had'three'carbon'atoms'(prop,'means'3)'and'the'iso,'part'means'the'propyl'part'was'an'isomer'of'the'propyl'(an'isomer'means'it'has'the'same'chemical'formula','for'instance,',C3H7','but'it'has'a'different'structural'formula,'like'being'attached'to'a'different'carbon'in'the'chain).''Did,I,mention,there'd,be,a,test?,Well,,there,is.,From,which,fatty,acid,is,isopropyl,palmitate,derived?,(Answer,at,the,bottom,of,this,post.),'It'gets'confusing'naming'things'when'we're'working'with'cosmetic'ingredients'because'there's'one'official'naming'convention'for'chemistry'(IUPAC),'but'a'lot'of'the'names'we'see'are'what'are'called'trivial'names.'For'instance,'we'call'it'oleic'acid'but'the'proper'name'is'(9Z),Octadec,9,enoic'acid.'We'might'call'it'cetyl'alcohol,'but'the'proper'name'is'really'1,Hexadecanol.'''A'lot'of'misinformation'comes'out'of'the'difference'between'trivial'and'official'names.'For'instance,'you'll'see'people'saying'that'something'like'isopropyl'alcohol'comes'from'propane'because'of'the'prop,'part'of'the'word.'Or'associating'things'with'other'things'because'of'the'trivial'name,'like'people'avoiding'cetyl'alcohol'because'they'don't'want'to'use'alcohol'(ethanol)'in'their'products.''

So'what's'the'big'deal'about'esters?'Well,'everything!'Esters'show'up'a'lot'in'our'bath'&'body'products','they're'fragrance'and'flavour'oils'when'the'carboxylic'acid'is'combined'with'an'aromatic'ring'(the'one'to'the'left'smells'like'strawberries),'they're'thickeners'like'Crothix'or'glycol'distearate,'they're'water'soluble'oils'like'PEG,7'olivate,'they're'

emulsifiers'like'polysorbate'20'or'80,'and'they're'emollients'like'my'new'favourites'


cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'and'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'and'my'old'favourite'isopropyl'myristate'(or'IPM).''As'a'point'of'interest,'yes,'polyester'is'an'ester'and'esters'are'found'in'our'bodies'in'fat'as'well'in'bee'pheromones.'In'fact,'the'name'ester'refers'to'their'odour,'and'we'find'it'in'anything'in'nature'with'a'fragrance'like'fruit'and'flowers.'So'they'can'range'from'the'incredibly'natural'to'the'incredibly'synthetic.'''I've'already'written'about'the'basics'of'esters','as'evidenced'by'the'links'above','but'I'will'be'going'into'more'detail'in'this'series.'If'you'simply'can't'wait,'click'away!''If'esters'are'derived'from'fatty'acids'found'in'our'oils'and'butters,'then'why'bother'using'esters?'

Esters'tend'to'have'longer'shelf'lives','24'months'or'more','because'they'don't'have'the'free'fatty'acids'or'unsaturated'acids'that'can'go'rancid'in'something'like'olive'or'grapeseed'oil.''

They'tend'to'feel'drier'than'oils'or'butters,'and'they'can'be'added'to'surfactant'mixes'without'having'a'huge'impact'on'the'foam'and'lather.'If'you've'used'an'ester'as'the'basis'of'a'product'you'll'know'they'feel'quite'emollient'and'spread'easily,'but'have'a'much'less'greasy'feel.'(More'about'this'tomorrow...)'

They'can'also'be'water'soluble'(like'the'PEG,7'olivate),'but'the'solubility'goes'down'as'the'chain'length'increases'(something'like'isopropyl'myristate'or'IPM'with'14'carbons'in'the'chain'will'not'be'water'soluble).'

They'can'solubilize'other'oil'based'ingredients'in'water'based'products'(polysorbate'20'or'80)'or'they'can'mix'with'water'based'products'without'separating.'This'is'because'they'are'polar,'unlike'oils'which'are'non,polar.'(More'about'this'in'the'post'on'solubility).'This'means'that'some'esters'can'be'added'to'water'soluble'products'like'body'washes'or'shampoos'without'the'need'for'an'emulsifier.''

Esters'can'solubilize'other'oils'in'oil'based'products.'The'reason'the'complicated'balm'feels'very'dry'is'thanks'to'the'esters:'Adding'esters'to'other'oils'makes'them'feel'less'greasy'and'easier'to'spread'on'your'skin.'(More'on'this'tomorrow'and'throughout'this'series!)''

Esters'are'consistent.'If'you've'ever'wondered'why'commercial'cosmetic'products'tend'to'have'things'like'mineral'oil'or'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'(an'ester)'instead'of'olive'oil'or'shea'butter,'this'is'the'answer.'Because'there's'a'specific'way'for'each'ester'to'be'processed'and'a'standard'of'what'each'ester'should'be,'you're'


guaranteed'every'time'you'buy'an'ester,'it's'the'same'as'the'last'bottle.'Natural'oils'see'more'variation'based'on'crop,'season,'weather'changes,'soil,'fatty'acid'composition,'free'fatty'acids,'and'so'on,'which'makes'it'harder'to'create'a'standardized'product'every'time.'I'm'sure'you've'noticed'the'same'lotion'might'be'thinner'or'thicker'or'greasier'than'the'last'batch.'By'using'esters,'you'are'ensuring'the'product'is'the'same'every'time.'Not'a'huge'issue'with'most'homecrafters,'but'if'you're'selling'your'products,'standardization'is'a'bonus!''

'Join'me'as'we'continue'our'journey'into'the'world'of'esters'by'taking'a'look'at'spreadability,'tackiness,'and'greasiness'in'the'next'section!'''Oh,'I'almost'forget','isopropyl'palmitate'is'derived'from'palmitic'acid'(C16).'Give'yourself'a'cookie'if'you'got'it'right.'And'if'you'got'it'wrong','go'get'a'cookie'anyway!'(Never'deny'yourself'a'cookie!)''

ESTERS:,SPREADABILITY,,TACKINESS,,AND,GREASINESS!,How'many'times'have'you'heard'a'lotion,'cream,'or'oil'being'described'as'"draggy"'on'our'skin?'This'word'is'generally'used'to'indicate'there's'some'difficulty'in'spreading'the'lotion'or'cream'on'our'skin.'This'has'actually'been'studied'and'is'considered'a'"sensory'characteristic"'of'bath'&'body'products,'along'with'time'to'be'absorbed,'greasiness,'and'tackiness.'Interestingly'enough,'there'doesn't'seem'to'be'a'general'relationship'between'the'physical'characteristics'of'an'oil'and'the'sensory'properties','at'least'not'one'we'can'say'works'with'every'single'emollient'ingredient.''As'a'general'rule,'the'spreadability'values'of'a'lipid'decreases'with'an'increase'in'the'viscosity'of'an'oil'and'an'increase'in'surface'tension.'(In'this'case,'lipid'means'anything'we'd'think'of'as'an'oil,'butter,'or'ester).'And'the'spreadability'of'an'oil'correlates'with'our'subjective'experience'of'absorption'into'our'epidermis.'So'the'lower'the'viscosity'of'an'oil'and'the'lower'the'surface'tension,'the'more'we'feel'it'absorbs'into'our'skin.''Think'about'the'difference'in'feeling'between'fractionated'coconut'oil'and'shea'butter.'Fractionated'coconut'oil'is'very'thin,'almost'watery,'and'shea'butter'is'a'thick'buttery'substance.'We'always'see'descriptions'of'shea'butter'as'occlusive'or'thick'or'rich,'whereas'fractionated'coconut'oil'is'considered'non,greasy'and'light.''


I'realize'I've'just'stated'the'obvious','shea'butter'has'high'viscosity'and'it'feels'thick,'fractionated'coconut'oil'has'low'viscosity'and'feels'light'but'that's'kind'of'the'point'of'this'post,'so'please'excuse'what'might'seem'really'elementary!'''Ever'had'a'tacky'feeling'lotion?'Tackiness'increases'with'the'surface'tension'of'a'lipid.'''

Definition&of&surface&tension:&&Surface'tension'is'a'measurement'of'the'cohesive'energy'present'at'an'interface.'The'molecules'of'a'liquid'attract'each'other.'The'interactions'of'a'molecule'in'the'bulk'of'a'liquid'are'balanced'by'an'equal'attractive'force'in'all'directions.''Viscosity'is'measured'in'milli,Newtons'per'metre'(nM/m)'and'surface'tension'is'measured'in'milli,Pascals'(mPa).'The'lower'the'numbers,'the'lower'the'viscosity'or'surface'tension.'So'something'like'avocado'oil'with'a'viscosity'of'64.3'and'a'surface'tension'of'32.1'will'feel'thicker,'tackier,'and'spread'less'easily'than'cyclomethicone'with'a'viscosity'of'3.8'and'a'surface'tension'of'18.3,'which'is'considered'to'have'"very'good"'spreadability.''To'give'you'some'perspective'on'just'how'awesome'esters'are'at'spreading'over'your'skin,'fractionated'coconut'oil'with'a'viscosity'of'23.7'and'surface'tension'of'29.4'is'considered'"very'poor"!'(And'this'is'one'of'the'oils'I'consider'really'really'spreadable'and'light!)'IPM'with'a'viscosity'of'4.6'and'a'surface'tension'of'28.4'is'considered'"very'good"'whereas'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'with'a'viscosity'of'11.8'and'a'surface'tension'of'31.6'is'considered'to'be'a'"very'poor"'spreader'in'the'world'of'esters!'Virtually'every'ester'you'see'will'have'better'spreading'abilities'than'one'of'the'lightest'oils'we'can'buy!',How,do,we,decrease,the,viscosity,of,an,oil?'Well,'we'don't','at'least'not'in'our'workshops.'We'can't'change'the'viscosity'of'something'like'avocado'oil'but'we'can'buy'it'in'the'form'of'avocado'butter'(which'will'increase'the'viscosity)'or'something'like'an'ester'of'avocado'oil'(which'decreases'the'viscosity).''We'can'increase'and'decrease'the'viscosity'of'a'product'like'a'lotion'or'body'wash'by'adding'more'water,'increasing'or'decreasing'the'thickeners,'changing'the'butters'and'oils,'and'so'on,'but'we'can't'change'the'viscosity'of'something'like'straight'avocado'oil!'''


How,do,we,decrease,the,surface,tension?'Surfactants','they're'called'surface'active'agents'for'a'reason!'By'solubilizing'or'emulsifying'the'lipids,'we'decrease'the'surface'tension,'which'decreases'the'feelings'of'tackiness'and'greasiness'and'increases'the'feelings'of'absorption'and'spreadability!''If'you'applied'straight'avocado'oil'to'your'skin,'you'd'find'it'more'difficult'to'spread'and'far'more'greasy'feeling'than'you'would'in'a'lotion'or'cream'containing'emulsifiers.'Esters'tend'to'be'solubilizers'for'other'oils,'so'when'we'add'them'to'our'creations','say,'in'the'form'of'something'like'IPM','they'will'make'the'other'oils'feel'less'greasy'(as'demonstrated'in'this'body'spray).''To'summarize:'Esters'tend'to'be'lower'viscosity,'lower'surface'tension'lipids'compared'to'oils,'which'is'why'they'feel'less'greasy,'spread'more'easily,'and'tend'to'feel'less'tacky'than'natural'oils'and'butters.''

ESTERS:,PEG,or,polyethylene,glycol,esters,You've'seen'these'esters'around,'with'names'like'PEG,7'olivate'or'PEG,12'laurate,'but'what'the'heck'are'polyethylene'glycol'esters?''

Point'of'interest:'What'we've'been'taking'a'look'at'for'the'last'week'are'called'alkyl'esters,'just'one'of'the'many'types'of'esters!'There'are'a'ton'of'different'types','I'can't'cover'them'all'as'this'will'become'the'"ester'blog",'but'we'll'go'over'the'major'categories!''PEG'stands'for'polyethylene'glycols'or'ethylene'glycols,'which'are'esters'that'have'undergone'a'reaction'with'polyethylene'glycol'to'create'an'ester'that'is'water'soluble'and'might'behave'as'an'emulsifier.'This'process'is'called'ethoxylation'and'is'an'industrial'process'in'which'ethylene'oxide'is'added'to'a'fatty'acid'or'fatty'acid'alcohol,'and'in'the'end'non,ionic'surfactants'are'produced.'(Remember'that'surfactants'are'not'necessarily'foamy'or'lathery','there'are'many'categories.)'Surfactants'have'a'hydrophilic'(water'loving)'head'and'a'lipophilic'(oil'loving)'tail,'which'means'they'can'help'emulsify'themselves'or'other'oil'based'ingredients'we'might'want'to'include'in'our'water'based'products.''

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Generally,'a'PEG'ester'is'named'like'this','PEG,#'something,ate.'The'#'stands'for'the'number'of'polyethylene'glycol'molecules'that'have'been'reacted'and'the'something,ate'is'the'fatty'acid'with'which'it'was'reacted.'So'if'we'see'something'like'PEG,12'laurate,'it'means'12'molecules'of'polyethylene'glycol'has'been'reacted'with'1'molecule'of'lauric'acid'(C12'fatty'acid,'generally'from'coconut'oil'or'palm'kernel'oil).'The'number'is'important','as'the'number'increases,'the'water'solubility'increases.'Something'like'PEG,8'oleate'will'be'more'water'soluble'than'PEG,6'oleate,'and'PEG,10'would'be'more'water'soluble'still.''Most'of'what'we'see'are'low'ethoxylated'esters'like'PEG,7'olivate,'PEG,7'glyceryl'cocoate,'and'PEG,12'laurate.'(We'will'see'higher'chain'lengths'in'things'like'PEG,150'glycol'distearate'when'we'get'into'the'glycol'and'glyceryl'esters,'which'tend'to'be'used'as'thickeners,'opacifiers,'and'emulsifiers.)'These'PEG'esters'behave'as'emollients,'moisturizers,'anti,irritants'or'mildness'increasers,'and'can'confer'slipperiness'to'things'like'shampoo,'body'washes,'and'bubble'baths!'Some'of'them'behave'as'very'mild'cleansers,'which'is'why'adding'something'like'PEG,7'olivate'to'a'make,up'remover'works'so'well!''The'neat'thing'about'using'PEG'type'esters'is'the'impact'they'have'on'our'products.'They'don't'hydrolyze'in'water'and'don't'support'mould'growth,'which'makes'them'a'great'inclusion'in'any'product'where'you're'using'water.'(Hydrolysis'is'one'of'the'mechanisms'of'rancidity,'so'having'something'that'doesn't'hydrolyze'means'you'are'less'likely'to'see'rancid'oils'and'icky'products!).'They'also'form'clear'solutions'with'your'surfactants','you'won't'get'that'when'you'emulsify'that'little'bit'of'oil'with'something'like'polysorbate'80.''So'when'you'see'something'called'a'"water'soluble'oil",'it's'probably'a'PEG'ester'(or'possibly'a'PPG'ester,'which'is'a'polypropylene'glycol'ester,'which'we'll'be'discussing'soon)'derived'from'that'fatty'acid'or'triglyceride.''There'are'PEG'esters'that'are'called'an'ethoxylated'triglycerides'and'they're'similar'to'the'PEG'esters,'but'they'tend'to'be'named'things'like'PEG,20'almond'triglycerides.'You'll'also'see'things'like'PEG,7'glyceryl'cocoate,'which'are'glycol'or'glycerol'esters,'which'are'created'through'a'different'process.'And'we'have'things'like'polysorbate'20'or'80,'which'are'alkyl'carbohydrate'esters.'All'of'these'are'considered'water'soluble'surfactants'and'solubilizers'or'emulsifiers.'We'll'be'taking'a'look'at'these'shortly.'''

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ESTERS:,PPG,or,polypropylene,glycol,esters,PPG'esters'are'known'as'polypropylene,glycol,esters,'and'they'are'"a'mixture'of'propylene'glycol'mono,'and'diesters'of'saturated'and'unsaturated'fatty'acids'derived'from'edible'oils'and'fats.'The'products'are'produced'either'by'direct'esterification'of'propylene'glycol'with'fatty'acids'or'by'transesterification'of'propylene'glycol'with'oils'or'fats.'When'prepared'by'transesterification,'the'product'may'contain'residual'mono,'and'diglycerides'and'glycerol."'So'what'the'heck'does'that'mean?''PPG'esters'are'cousins'of'PEG'esters','they'are'esterified'versions'of'these'oils'that'react'with'propylene'glycol'to'give'them'that'hydrophilic'head'and'lipophilic'tail,'to'make'them'surfactants.'The'difference'is'they'are'esterified'with'polypropylene'glycol'instead'of'polyethylene'glycol.''They'have'the'same'kind'of'naming'conventions','PPG,#'is'the'number'of'propylene'glycol'molecules'that'react'with'one'of'the'original'molecules','but'the'names'are'much'more'complicated.'They'usually'end'with'something'like'"myristate",'which'indicates'the'original'fatty'acid'(like'myristic'or'palmitic'acid).'The'poly,'part'indicates'it's'actually'a'polymer,'which'means'it'is'a'"large'molecule'(macromolecule)'composed'of'repeating'structural'units'typically'connected'by'covalent'chemical'bonds".'As'the'number'of'chains'increase,'the'melting'and'boiling'points'and'viscosity'will'increase.'What'does'this'mean'for'us?'Well,'we'generally'won't'see'something'with'a'name'like'PPG,150'because'that'would'be'incredibly'thick!''As'a'note,'you'might'see'PPG'associated'with'ethers'as'well.'Read'the'data'bulletin'for'your'ingredient'to'see'if'it's'an'ether'or'an'ester.'For'instance,'PPG,3'benzyl'ether'myristate'has'the'word'"ether"'in'it,'but'it's'considered'an'ester.'This'is'because'there'is'an'ether'functional'group'in'it,'but'it's'an'ester.'''PPG'esters'are'generally'considered'non,greasy'ingredients'and'will'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'in'your'products.'They'can'feel'occlusive'without'being'occlusive,'but'some'form'light'films'on'your'skin.'They'have'very'high'spreading'abilities','some'are'even'easier'to'spread'than'our'esters!','and'should'feel'less'tacky'than'our'vegetables'oils'on'your'skin.'Some,'like'Cromollient'SCE,'are'surfactant'and'water'soluble,'while'others,'like'Crodamol'STS,'are'dispersible'in'alcohol,'oils,'and'some'lathery'surfactants,'but'insoluble'in'water.'Most'tend'to'be'colourless'and'odourless'liquids.'Most'will'avoid'foam'and'lather'depression'in'lathery'surfactants,'but'some'might'have'an'effect.''

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The'problem'with'PPG'esters'is'that'there'isn't'something'you'can'say'"this'is'what'they'are'all'like"'the'way'we'can'with'the'PEG'esters.'We'get'into'a'whole'area'of'chemistry'I'don't'think'I'can'explain'well,'so'we'll'have'to'take'a'look'at'each'ester'individually'instead'of'making'a'generalization.''Join'me'tomorrow'for'a'look'at'PPG,3'benzyl'ether'myristate'also'known'as'Crodamol'STS.,,,

ESTERS:,C12[15,alkyl,benzoate,C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'an'ester'you'll'see'a'lot'in'commercial'products'as'it'is'an'emollient,'skin'feel'modifier'(makes'other'oils'feel'less'greasy),'an'anti,tackiness'agent,'lubricant,'and'binder'and'wetting'agent'for'mineral'make,up'products.'It'also'works'as'a'solvent'for'sunscreen'

ingredients,'making'it'easier'to'incorporate'those'ingredients'into'a'day,use'moisturizer.'It'has'an'HLB'of'13'and'the'suggested'usage'is'1%'to'15%.'It's'a'clear,'oil'soluble'ester'that'is'stable'in'products'with'pH'ranges'of'2'to'12','in'other'words,'pretty'much'every'product'we'make.''Like'other'esters,'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'will'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'of'other'oils'in'your'products,'increases'spreadability,'and'will'solubilize'other'oils'and'silicones'in'an'oil'based'product.'It's'also'a'fragrance'fixative,'so'adding'it'to'something'like'a'body'oil'or'oil'based'perfume'spray'will'help'the'scent'stick'around'longer!'It's'described'as'having'a'"silky'soft'after'feel"'and'is'occlusive'without'feeling'heavy.''C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'considered'"oil'free",'so'those'of'us'who'can't'normally'use'oils'on'our'face'due'to'comedogenicity'issues'can'use'something'like'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'to'create'oil'free'moisturizers'and'foundations'(and'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'considered'outstanding'as'a'mineral'make,up'ingredient'thanks'to'its'solubilizing'abilities).''C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'considered'very'poor'on'the'spreadability'scale,'with'high'surface'tension'and'low'viscosity,'but'this'is'only'when'you'compare'it'to'other'esters.'If'you'compare'it'to'a'light'oil','let's'say'sunflower'oil','it's'a'very'good'spreading'emollient.'It'is'also'high'polarity,'hence'the'ability'to'solubilize'the'other'oils'or'silicones'in'a'product.''


You'might'see'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'under'the'trade'names'Crodamol'AB'or'Tegosoft'TN.'''How&can&we&use&C12[15&alkyl&benzoate&in&our&products?'We'can'use'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'as'a'substitute'for'other'light'oils'in'our'products,'or'we'can'use'it'to'offer'moisturizing'and'emolliency'in'a'product'that'might'not'normally'have'an'oil,'like'a'facial'cleanser.'''Because'it'offers'occlusion'without'heaviness,'using'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'a'good'way'of'getting'the'occlusive'powers'of'something'like'shea'butter'in'a'lighter'feeling'lotion.'I'had'planned'to'leave'the'butters'out'of'this'recipe','the'trying'new'things'out'lotion','because'I'was'in'the'mood'for'a'very'light,'easily'spreadable'lotion,'but'the'lure'of'my'new'matcha'green'tea'butter'was'too'much'and'I'included'it'in'the'end.'But'the'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'would'have'been'enough'for'the'intended'purpose','a'light,'spreadable'lotion'that'offered'an'occlusive'layer.'And'I'used'it'in'the'complicated'balm'to'offer'a'nice'level'of'emolliency'without'adding'a'ton'of'weight!''

ESTERS:,Cetearyl,ethylhexanoate,Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'(also'known'as'cetearyl'octanoate,'and'found'under'the'trade'name'Tegosoft'Liquid,'Luvitor'EHO,'Schercemol'CO'ester,'and'Crodamol'CAP)'is'a'light,'colourless'liquid'that'does'have'a'faint'odour.'It'has'a'shelf'life'of'24'months'and'can'be'used'at'up'to'25%'in'our'creations.''

Its'viscosity'is'11'mPas'and'the'surface'tension'is'30'mN,'which'means'it's'on'par'with'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'as'a'spreading'ester','it's'high'spreading'compared'to'our'natural'oils'and'butters,'but'isn't'considered'a'great'spreader'in'the'ester'world.'Personally,'I've'found'it'spreads'incredibly'well'and'I'd'say'on'a'subjective'level,'it'feels'nicer'than'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'when'you're'rubbing'it'into'your'skin.'(C12,15'feels'heavier,'but'when'you'consider'that'they'both'feel'lighter'than'something'like'fractionated'coconut'oil,'it'really'is'a'minor'difference!)''Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'has'a'high'degree'of'water'repellency,'and'it's'about'a'"medium"'polarity,'meaning'it'won't'act'as'an'emulsifier'or'solubilizer'and'isn't'water'soluble,'but'it'is'freely'miscible'in'other'oils'and'fats','meaning'it'mixes'well'with'our'


oils,'butters,'silicones,'or'other'esters.'It's'considered'to'be'a'low'occlusive'ester,'on'par'with'something'like'sunflower'oil'or'fractionated'coconut'oil.''An'interesting'study'from'Germany'found'that'using'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'can'help'hydrate'skin'and'prevent'wounds'from'drying'out,'which'prevents'trans,epidermal'water'loss'in'broken'skin.'Normally'we'd'need'an'occlusive'ingredient'like'cocoa'butter,'dimethicone,'or'allantoin'for'this'purpose,'but'we'can'use'something'light'and'non,greasy'feeling'in'that'role!'(So'combining'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'with'a'high'linoleic'acid'oil'like'sunflower'or'sesame'or'a'high'GLA'oil'like'borage'or'evening'primrose'might'help'in'retaining'moisture'in'our'skin'and'increasing'the'repair'of'our'skin'barrier!'Does'anyone'see'a'potential'facial'moisturizer'or'serum'recipe'here?)''As'with'many'esters,'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'is'considered'"oil'free"'so'you'can'use'it'in'products'for'people'who'might'not'like'oils'on'their'skin,'for'instance,'in'a'facial'moisturizer'or'serum.'And'it'can'be'used'in'mineral'make,up'products'to'add'some'oils'without'adding'oiliness.'It'really'is'a'very'light,'very'dry'feeling'ester'with'a'silky'kind'of'feeling'on'your'skin','it's'dry,'but'not'annoyingly'dry.''Why%oh%why%isn't%there%some%kind%of%shortened%name%for%this%product%like%cetex%or%cetearethex%or%something%similar?%It's%not%a%fun%name%to%type%out%every%few%sentences!%'How'to'use'it?'You'can'substitute'any'oil'in'any'product'with'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','I'did'that'in'this'lotion'recipe,'substituting'the'wheat'germ'oil'with'the'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'to'make'it'feel'even'more'light'and'airy.'And'I'did'it'in'this'complicated'balm'that'feels'light'and'less'greasy'than'a'balm'that'might'contain'an'oil'in'its'place'and'in'this'lotion'bar'that,'again,'feels'lighter'and'less'greasy'than'if'I'd'used'another'oil.'You'can'add'at'up'to'25%'in'any'concoction'to'get'a'lighter'feeling,'less'greasy,'more'easily'spreadable'product!,,


ESTERS:,Using,C12[15,alkyl,benzoate,and,cetearyl,ethylhexanoate,in,facial,moisturizers,

A'facial'moisturizer'is'the'perfect'place'to'use'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'or'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'as'they're'lightweight,'emollient,'non,comedogenic,'and'non,greasy,'meaning'we'get'the'benefits'of'an'oil'without'the'possible'drawbacks'like'blackheads'or'break,outs.'And'the'increased'occlusivity'of'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'always'great'for'facial'products!'Let's'take'a'look'at'the'cationic'facial'moisturizer'and'see'how'we'can'tweak'it'with'this'ester!'

BASIC&CATIONIC&FACIAL&MOISTURIZER&RECIPE&WATER'PHASE'77.5%'water'(you'can'replace'10%'to'all'of'the'water'with'hydrosols'or'

aloe'vera)'2,5%'humectant'of'choice'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'8%'oils'4%'BTMS,50'(or'Polawax,'if'you'want'more'greasy'feel)'2%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'2%'panthenol'0.5%'extract'0.5%'another'extract''The'one'down'side'of'using'esters'is'the'lack'of'polyphenols,'phytosterols,'and'all'the'other'good'and'lovely'things'you'might'find'in'an'oil'or'butter,'so'we'll'have'to'make'up'for'this'somewhere'else.'If'you're'a'dry'skinned'person,'you'could'use'50,50'combination'of'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'or'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'to'create'a'very'light,'less'greasy'moisturizer'that'still'has'some'of'those'qualities'of'the'exotic'oil.'For'instance,'a'facial'moisturizer'with'5%'borage'oil'and'3%'ester'will'give'you'an'emollient'product'with'the'wonderful'GLA'that'helps'repair'our'skin's'barrier'functions.'

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'If'you're'an'oily'person,'this'recipe'with'an'ester'means'fewer'breakouts'and'much'less'greasy'product!'You'll'notice'we'normally'don't'use'any'oils'in'these'kinds'of'moisturizers,'but'using'an'ester'will'offer'emolliency'without'the'fear'of'break,outs!'You'can'use'either'ester'to'create'an'emollient'and'possibly'occlusive'product'without'worries'about'comedogenicity!,,,

ESTERS:,Isopropyl,palmitate,Isopropyl,palmitate'is'related'to'isopropyl,myristate'(IPM),'the'difference'being'IPP'is'derived'from'palmitic'fatty'acid'(C16)'and'IPM'is'derived'from'myristic'fatty'acid'(C14).'Since'we're'a'little'more'familiar'with'IPM,'we'll'end'up'contrasting'and'comparing'the'two'at'some'point,'so'here's'some'information'on'IPM.'Both'are'generally'derived'from'coconut'or'palm'oil.'

'Isopropyl,myristate,or,IPM'(C17H34O2)'is'considered'a'short'chain'ester'that'feels'dry'on'our'skin'and'

won't'impact'the'foam'in'our'surfactant'mixes.'It's'an'astringent'emollient'that'can'be'used'to'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'in'our'products.'It's'used'as'a'penetration'enhancer'to'help'our'active'ingredients'diffuse'into'our'skin'better'or'more'easily.'It'works'well'as'an'anti,tackiness'ingredient,'reducing'residue'on'our'skin'from'our'products'(like'the'whiteness'from'a'deodorant'or'the'soaping'effect'of'a'lotion).'It's'a'low'viscosity'ester'with'a'lowish'surface'tension,'so'it's'considered'a'very'good'spreading'ester.'It'has'low'to'no'odour,'so'it'won't'have'an'impact'on'your'fragrance'choices.'Use'it'at'1%'to'5%'in'your'creations.'

'Isopropyl,palmitate,or,IPP'(C19H38O2)'is'considered'a'

short'chain'ester'that'feels'dry'on'our'skin'and'won't'impact'the'foam'in'our'surfactant'mixes.'It's'an'astringent'emollient'that'can'be'used'to'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'in'our'products.'It's'used'as'a'penetration'enhancer'to'help'our'active'ingredients'diffuse'into'our'skin'better'or'more'easily.'It'works'well'as'an'anti,tackiness'ingredient,'reducing'residue'on'our'skin'from'our'products'(like'the'whiteness'from'a'deodorant'or'the'soaping'effect'of'a'lotion).'It's'a'low'viscosity'ester'with'a'lowish'surface'tension,'so'it's'considered'a'very'good'spreading'ester.'It'has'low'to'no'odour,'so'it'won't'have'an'impact'on'your'fragrance'choices.'Use'at'1%'to'5%'in'your'creations.''


Huh.'Interesting.'So'they're'pretty'much'the'same?'Both'have'HLB'of'11.5,'both'are'very'good'spreading,'non,greasy'feeling'emollients,'and'both'are'used'as'anti,tackiness'ingredients.'So'why'use'IPP?''Comedogenicity.'Both'IPP'and'IPM'are'considered'comedogenic'with'a'rating'of'about'4','very'comedogenic'and'possibly'acnegenic'for'some'skin'types','but'IPP'can'be'less'comedogenic'when'mixed'with'other'oils'and'esters.''IPM'used'neat'has'a'comedogenic'score'of'4,'very'comedogenic.'Mix'it'with'something'like'mineral'oil'at'any'ratio,'and'it'remains'about'a'4.'IPP'starts'off'as'a'3'to'4'when'used'neat'or'at'up'to'50%'of'a'creation.'But'mix'it'with'mineral'oil','1%'to'25%'IPP','and'the'comedogenicity'drops'dramatically'to'around'1.3.''Why'is'this?'I've'done'a'ton'of'reading'and'I've'found'nothing'that'helps'me'understand'why'IPP'is'less'comedogenic'than'IPM.'My'guess'is'that'it'has'something'to'do'with'the'original'fatty'acid','myristic'acid'is'more'comedogenic'than'palmitic'acid','but'I'can't'say'this'for'sure!''Having'said'this,'having'1%'to'5%'of'a'comedogenic'ingredient'likely'won't'make'you'break'out.'On'your'face,'if'you'have'really'acne'prone'skin,'this'small'amount'might'be'enough'to'cause'some'trouble,'but'few'of'us'will'find'it'problematic'for'our'body'skin.''So'in'general,'IPP'can'be'used'in'place'of'IPM'for'most'creations,'but'you'might'want'to'consider'using'IPP'if'you're'making'a'facial'product'or'for'sensitive'skin!'''

ESTERS:,Formulating,with,IPM,and,IPP,I'm'a'big'fan'of'both'IPM'and'IPP','I'generally'add'them'at'2%'in'a'lot'of'my'creations'to'make'it'feel'slightly'less'greasy'(although'I'do'like'a'greasier'feeling'lotion,'IPP'and'IPM'offer'just'enough'reduction'to'stop'me'from'leaving'huge'greasy'fingerprints'on'my'iPod'touch!).'You'can'use'them'up'to'5%'in'a'lotion'for'this'effect,'or'even'higher'for'something'like'a'less'greasy'feeling'body'spray'(I'use'33%'in'a'body'spray'for'something'really'non,greasy'feeling).''In'a'recent'post,'I'used'IPM'to'reduce'the'greasiness'of'the'whipped'soy'butter.'You'can'use'either'IPP'or'IPM'at'up'to'5%'to'make'it'feel'even'less'greasy.'(Seriously'try'this'recipe.'It'is'really'light'and'airy'and'feels'dryish'but'still'moisturizing'on'your'skin.'Switch'

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the'soy'butter'for'another'hydrogenated'butter'like'aloe'or'green'tea'butter','and'it'might'be'less'airy,'but'still'pretty'awesome!)''Let’s'make'a'body'butter'using'our'basic'recipe.'I'know'if'I'use'shea'butter,'this'will'feel'quite'greasy.'And'normally,'that's'how'I'like'it.'But'let's'add'a'little'IPP'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'to'give'it'a'less'greasy,'more'silky'feeling.'You'can'use'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'as'your'oil'as'well,'but'I'thought'it'd'be'fun'to'use'the'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate.'''And'because'it's'summer,'I'm'upping'my'humectants'because'I'like'those'this'time'of'year.'We'll'increase'the'glycerin'and'keep'the'sodium'lactate'at'the'same'level'(more'than'3%'can'make'you'sun'sensitive,'and'we'don't'want'that'during'hotter'months!).'So'let's'add'3%'glycerin'and'keep'the'2%'sodium'lactate!'You'can'use'another'humectant'of'choice.'

BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&WITH&SHEA&BUTTER&AND&ESTERS&WATER'PHASE'36%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'2%'sodium'lactate'3%'glycerin''OIL'PHASE'10%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'15%'shea'butter'7%'emulsifier'3%'cetyl'alcohol'or'cetyl'esters'2%'IPP'or'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'IPP'or'IPM'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'''The'original'body'butter'is'very'thick'and'occlusive','this'will'be'thick'and'occlusive'but'feel'drier'and'slightly'less'thick'.'If'you'wanted'to'make'it'feel'drier'still,'you'could'use'BTMS,50'instead'of'Polawax'or'e,wax'as'your'emulsifier.'You'll'notice'I'didn't'include'any'silicones'in'this'recipe','I'love'dimethicone'or'cyclomethicone'at'2%'each'in'this'


recipe,'but'I'thought'I'd'leave'them'out'to'see'the'effects'of'the'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'and'the'cetyl'esters.'It'is'very'glidy'and'silky','I'think'I'can'leave'them'out'of'this'recipe'permanently!'''And'you'll'notice'I've'increased'my'emulsifier.'This'is'because'I've'added'the'2%'IPP'or'IPM','yes,'I'should'have'gone'to'6.5%,'but'my'little'scale'that'measures'in'0.1'grams'has'died'and'so'I'can't'figure'out'if'something's'between'the'6%'and'7%.'''I'use'IPP'and'IPM'a'lot'in'my'hand'lotions'as'I'want'all'the'goodness'of'the'greasier'oils','the'linoleic'acid'found'in'sunflower'and'rice'bran'oil'are'great'for'trashed'hands','but'I'don't'want'to'leave'greasy'fingerprints'everywhere.'Adding'2%'IPM'or'IPP'isn't'going'to'make'your'hand'lotion'completely'dry,'but'it's'enough'that'it'feels'like'it'sinks'in'quickly'and'doesn't'leave'a'greasy'feel.'Adding'5%'will'make'it'feel'drier'still.'You’ll'find'a'lot'of'the'drier'feeling'recipes'I’ve'created'contain'IPM'and'or/IPP.'''

ESTERS:,Ethylhexyl,palmitate,Ethylhexyl'palmitate'(also'known'as'octyl'palmitate)'can'be'found'under'the'brand'names'of'Ceraphyl'368'(ISP),'Crodamol'OP'(Croda),'or'Tegosoft'OP,'amongst'others.'

'It's'a'clear,'colourless,'almost'odourless'ester'derived'from'coconut'or'palm'oil.'It's'a'medium'spreading'ester','it's'a'low'viscosity,'medium'surface'tension'ester'that'is'better'than'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'and'on'par'with'dimethicone'or'fractionated'coconut'oil.'In'fact,'it'can'be'considered'a'good'dimethicone'equivalent'for'skin'care'products,'so'if'you're'looking'to'replace'silicones'in'your'non,hair'care'products,'consider'ethylhexyl'palmitate.'It's'non,occlusive,'but'is'considered'comedogenic'and'acnegenic'when'used'at'higher'levels.''You'can'use'it'at'1%'to'50%,'but'5%'is'considered'the'usual'amount.'At'40%'to'50%'it's'considered'mildly'irritating;'at'2.5%'to'2.7%'it's'considered'minimally'irritating'to'all'but'the'most'extremely'sensitive'skin.''Ethylhexyl'palmitate'is'generally'used'in'foundations'and'mineral'make,up'powders'as'a'binder,'as'well'as'lipsticks'and'lotions'or'creams.'It's'used'a'lot'as'a'solvent'for'sunscreens'as'it'won't'interfere'with'the'active'ingredients.'(But'remember,'don't'make'


your'own'sunscreens!)'Try'using'it'in'a'body'oil'spray,'lotion'bar,'or'balm'to'increase'the'silky'feeling'and'decrease'the'greasiness.''

ESTERS:,Using,ethylhexyl,palmitate,in,your,creations!,I've'said'it'a'hundred'times'so'far,'but'esters'are'a'great'way'of'increasing'the'feeling'of'dryness'or'reducing'the'feeling'of'greasiness,'increasing'the'lightness'and'spreadability,'and'decreasing'the'thickness'of'your'lotions'or'butters.''So'let's'take'a'look'at'a'really'greasy'product','body'butter'with'shea'and'other'oils'intended'for'oily'skin','and'use'some'of'our'new'esterific'friends'to'make'it'

lighter'and'less'greasy!''

MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN&WATER'PHASE'30%'aloe'vera'liquid'or'water'15.5%'hydrosol'of'choice'(chamomile'or'lavender'are'very'nice!)'2%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'or'honeyquat'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'proteins'of'choice'(I'like'oat'protein)'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'20%'oils','soy'bean'oil'5%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'8.5%'emulsifier'(e,wax,'Polawax,'or'BTMS)'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'extract'of'choice'0.5%'extract'of'choice'2%'dimethicone'2%'cyclomethicone'


0.5%'preservative'(liquid'Germall'Plus)'1%'Vitamin'E'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil''In'this'recipe,'I'm'going'to'substitute'the'silicones'with'2%'ethylhexyl'palmitate'because'it's'very'similar'to'dimethicone,'but'I'll'move'it'to'the'oil'phase.'I'll'keep'the'IPM','you'can'use'IPP'instead,'if'you'want','and'I'll'substitute'half'the'oils'with'ethylhexyl'palmitate'and'keep'10%'of'the'soy'bean'oil'as'I'really'like'what'it'offers'my'skin.'So'I'need'a'total'of'12%'ethylhexyl'palmitate,'10%'soy'bean'oil,'and'2%'IPP'(already'included'in'the'recipe).'I'could'use'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'or'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'but'I'really'want'to'use'a'cupcake,y'kind'of'fragrance'oil'and'we'know'the'former'doesn't'play'well'with'vanilla!'''Because'I'm'keeping'my'oil'phase'the'same,'I'don't'have'to'change'the'emulsifier'amount.'I'm'using'Polawax'here,'but'you'can'use'e,wax'or'BTMS,50'if'you'want.'''I'think'I'll'play'with'my'cetyl'esters'instead'of'cetyl'alcohol','use'cetyl'alcohol'if'you'don't'like'or'don't'have'cetyl'esters','and'I'm'keeping'the'cyclomethicone'because'I'don't'have'a'substitute'for'it.'''As'for'extracts,'I'really'like'chamomile'for'my'reddened'skin'and'since'I'just'bought'wheat'grass'extract,'I'think'I'll'use'that.'(It's'supposed'to'help'"soothe,'moisturize'and'revitalize'the'appearance'of'dry,'cracked'or'raw'skin"'and'that's'always'a'good'thing'if'I'm'using'it'on'my'trashed'elbows!)'''Okay,'so'let's'take'a'look'at'our'modified'recipe...'

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&OILY&SKIN&WITH&ESTERS&WATER'PHASE'30%'aloe'vera'liquid'or'water'15.5%'hydrosol'of'choice'(chamomile'or'lavender'are'very'nice!)'2%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA'or'honeyquat'3%'glycerin'2%'hydrolyzed'proteins'of'choice'(I'like'oat'protein)'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'22%'oils','10%'soy'bean'oil,'12%'ethylhexyl'palmitate'


5%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'8.5%'emulsifier'(e,wax,'Polawax,'or'BTMS)'3%'cetyl'alcohol'or'cetyl'esters'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'extract'of'choice'(chamomile)'0.5%'extract'of'choice'(wheat'grass)'2%'cyclomethicone'0.5%'preservative'(liquid'Germall'Plus)'1%'Vitamin'E'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'(I'm'using'Clementine'Cupcake'from'Brambleberry!)''As'you'can'see,'it's'really'easy'to'switch'oils'for'esters'and'vice'versa','you'don't'need'to'change'your'emulsifier'or'change'the'amounts'you're'using','but'they'will'make'a'big'difference'in'the'skin'feel'of'the'lotion.''

ESTERS:,Cetyl,esters,Cetyl'esters'are'an'interesting'ingredient'indeed!'Composed'of'a'number'of'esters'of'saturated'fatty'alcohols'and'saturated'fatty'acids,'they'can'contain'a'number'of'different'esters'in'one'product,'including'cetyl'stearate,'cetyl'myristate,'cetyl'palmitate,'myristyl'myristate,'and'myristyl'stearate.'They'are'derived'from'vegetables,'and'you'know'you'have'cetyl'esters'when'you'see'the'cetyl'esters'NF'INCI'name.'Cetyl'esters'can'be'used'anywhere'

you'might'use'cetyl'alcohol,'although'they'will'offer'different'qualities'from'the'fatty'alcohol.''Cetyl'esters'have'an'HLB'of'10','whereas'cetyl'alcohol'has'an'HLB'of'15.5','and'they'can'take'up'to'2'days'to'full'thicken'your'lotion'or'cream.'They're'often'called'a'replacement'for'spermacetti'or'"synthetic'spermacetti",'but'this'is'kinda'irrelevant'to'us'because'spermacetti'hasn't'been'used'in'years,'especially'by'homecrafters!'It'has'a'faint'odour'and'bland'taste,'and'is'incredibly'resistant'to'rancidity'with'a'shelf'life'of'almost'5'years.'Like'all'the'esters'we've'met'so'far,'they're'insoluble'in'water'but'soluble'in'oils.'


Interestingly'enough,'cetyl'esters'are'soluble'in'boiling'alcohol,'so'they'might'be'a'suitable'ingredient'in'alcohol'based'deodorants.'They'have'a'melting'point'of'43˚C'to'47˚C.'They'may'or'may'not'be'incompatible'with'strong'acids'or'bases'(I'found'contradictions'in'this'piece'of'information)'and'the'suggested'usage'is'a'1%'to'7%'in'your'oil'phase.''You'might'find'cetyl'esters'under'the'trade'names'Crodamol'SS,'Ritaceti,'and'Liponate'SPS.''Cetyl'esters'are'used'a'lot'in'formulating'anti,perspirant'and'lip'balms'commercially'because'of'that'bland'taste'and'anti,tack'properties.'They'can'be'used'in'place'of'cetyl'alcohol'in'conditioners','they'offer'slightly'less'conditioning'but'they'will'make'the'conditioners'thinner,'which'is'kind'of'a'bonus'if'you're'using'7%'BTMS,50!''Using'cetyl'esters'in'a'lotion'or'cream'in'the'place'of'cetyl'alcohol'will'give'you'a'glidier,'silkier'feeling'and'a'thinner'product.''An%important%note:%In%products%where%I've%combined%cetearyl%ethylhexanoate%and%cetyl%esters,%I%got%a%weird%synthetic%smell%from%vanilla%based%fragrances.%I%have%tested%both%the%cetearyl%ethylhexanoate%and%the%cetyl%esters%and%have%come%to%the%conclusion%that%it's%the%cetyl%esters.%(I%don't%know%why%this%is!)%So%please%use%caution%when%using%these%esters%with%anything%that%contains%vanilla!%'I’ve'included'cetyl'esters'in'place'of'the'cetyl'alcohol'in'this'recipe'for'a'slightly'more'glidy'feeling.''

HAND&LOTION&RECIPE&MODIFIED&TO&BE&A&BODY&LOTION&FOR&SILLY&WOMEN&WHO&REFUSE&TO&COVER&UP&IN&THE&WINTER&WITH&CETYL&ESTERS&WATER'PHASE'30.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'lavender'or'chamomile'hydrosol'3%'glycerin'or'other'humectant'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'15%'oil'combination'of'choice','10%'evening'primrose,'5%'coconut'oil'


5%'butter'of'choice','5%'cocoa'butter'3%'cetyl'esters'7.5%'emulsifier'(I'like'Polawax'in'this'recipe)'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'panthenol'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'

ESTERS:,Super,Sterol,esters,Super,Sterol'is'a'brand'name'for'the'product'C10,30'cholesterol'esters,'and'it's'produced'by'Croda.'It's'derived'from'wool'wax'and'shows'excellent'spreading'and'excellent'adhesion'properties.'It'is'a'clear,'white'to'yellow,'odourless'oil'like'substance'that'is'quite'thick'compared'to'other'esters.''Our'stratum'corneum'lipids'contain'cholesterol','about'20%'to'25%'of'the'lipids'are'cholesterol'and'another'5%'to'10%'are'found'as'cholesterol'sulfate.'You'll'also'find'cholesterol'in'our'sebum.'C10,30'cholesterol'esters'have'a'natural'affinity'for'our'skin'as'the'cholesterol'is'such'a'big'part'of'our'natural'lipids,'so'it's'a'good'skin'conditioner'

and'moisturizer'with'repair'abilities.''It's'soluble'in'oils'and'insoluble'in'water,'but'it'can'absorb'up'to'50%'of'its'weight'in'water,'like'lanolin'and'has'some'emulsifying'properties.''Its'suggested'use'is'from'2%'to'10%'but'it'can'be'used'at'up'to'100%'in'a'creation'(although'at'that'point,'you're'really'just're,bottling'the'product!).'As'this'is'a'good'skin'repair'product,'consider'using'it'in'your'facial'serum'for'dry'skin,'in'a'whipped'butter'or'lotion'bar'intended'for'chapped'skin,'or'a'balm.'You'can'include'it'in'your'lotions'and'creams'or'any'other'emulsified'product'as'you'would'another'oil'or'ester','this'would'be'fantastic'in'a'facial'moisturizer'or'a'product'intended'for'really'trashed'skin.'This'would'

Indre

Indre


be'fantastic'in'a'product'intended'for'your'nails','a'cuticle'balm'or'lotion','as'it'contains'lanolin.'

ESTERS:,Formulating,with,Super,Sterol,Super'Sterol'can'be'used'pretty'much'anywhere'you'd'use'a'regular'oil,'but'as'it'is'a'lot'more'expensive,'you'might'want'to'save'it'for'those'products'where'you'want'some'serious'moisturizing'and'skin'barrier'repair,'like'a'facial'moisturizer'or'serum.''In'this'serum'for'dry'skin,'we'switched'the'camellia'oil'for'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'to'increase'to'occlusive'properties'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'to'increase'the'dry,'silky'feeling'and'reduce'the'greasiness'from'the'other'oils.'If'we'add'some'Super'Sterol'to'the'mix,'we'can'increase'our'skin's'barrier'repair'abilities'and'make'it'feel'a'little'drier'still.''We'could'switch'out'the'squalane'as'we're'adding'the'Super'Sterol'to'increase'the'moisturization'level'or'add'it'as'the'10%'miscellaneous'oils'at'the'end'of'the'recipe.'Or'change'it'for'one'of'the'oils'you'know'your'skin'doesn't'like!''

FACIAL&SERUM&FOR&DRY&SKIN&USING&SUPER&STEROL&20%'squalane'20%'soybean'oil'10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'10%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'10%'evening'primrose'oil'(20%'for'very'dry'skin,'reduce'the'squalane'by'10%)'10%'borage'oil'10%'sea'buckthorn'oil'10%'rosehip,'carrot,'or'other'oil'that'looks'nice'to'you''Super'Sterol'is'a'great'addition'to'a'facial'moisturizer,'and'can'be'used'for'the'entire'oil'phase'in'a'facial'product!'If'you're'using'BTMS,50,'you'will'get'quite'a'dry'feeling'lotion,'so'feel'free'to'switch'it'to'e,wax'or'Polawax'if'you'want'something'a'little'more'glidy.'If'you'want'to'keep'the'BTMS,50'for'the'dry'feeling'but'still'want'glide,'consider'adding'2%'to'5%'ethylhexyl'palmitate,'which'is'a'great'substitute'for'dimethicone'in'your'body'care'products,'and'increase'your'emulsifier'by'0.5%.''Super'Sterol'is'a'great'addition'to'anhydrous'products,'too!'Consider'using'Super'Sterol'in'a'body'oil','you'could'use'it'in'an'oil'based'body'spray'like'this'one'or'this'one'with'exotic'oils,'or'substitute'it'for'one'of'the'esters'in'an'ester'based'body'spray.'


'

BODY&OIL&SPRAY&WITH&ESTERS&30%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'23%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'45%'capric/caprylic'triglycerides'2%'fragrance'oil'(I'used'white'tea'&'ginger!)''Get'a'spray'bottle.'Add'all'the'ingredients.'Use.'Rejoice.''

ESTERS:,USING,ESTERS,IN,HAND,LOTIONS,Why'use'esters'in'a'lotion?'Esters'take'a'long'time'to'go'rancid,'so'your'lotions'would'have'at'least'a'year'shelf'life'(depending'upon'the'other'ingredients).'They'tend'to'be'lighter'than'oils,'so'they're'perfect'for'summer'time'or'non,occlusive'lotions.'And'they'feel'less'greasy,'so'they're'perfect'for'hand'lotions,'especially'if'you'want'one'to'use'at'work'or'around'the'house'when'you're'touching'other'surfaces.'Oh,'and'if'you'like'a'really'white'lotion,'you'll'get'that'with'the'esters'as'most'of'them','if'not'all','have'no'colour.''How'do'we'use'esters'in'a'lotion?'Exactly'as'we'd'use'the'oils,'added'to'the'heated'oil'phase.''But'wait!'If'you're'making'your'own'emulsifier'using'the'HLB'system,'you'will'need'to're,calculate'your'emulsification'amounts'as'the'HLB'of'most'esters'is'higher'than'those'of'oils.''Which'ones'to'use'in'lotion?'Why'all'of'them,'of'course!'You'can'use'any'of'the'esters'we've'covered'in'the'last'sections'in'your'lotions,'although'you'might'want'to'save'the'PEG,7'olivate'for'

water'soluble'applications!''So'let's'take'a'look'at'our'basic'lotion'recipe'and'make'into'something'light'and'awesome'using'esters!'You'can'make'this'recipe'and'use'one'or'two'esters'in'the'oils'phase,'but'I'think'we'need'to'tweak'it'to'create'something'really'interesting!''


BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE&WITH&ESTERS&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'70%'water''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'oil','choose'1'or'2'esters'you'like'5%'shea'or'mango'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'5%'emulsifier'(BTMS,'Polawax,'or'emulsifying'wax'NF)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''What,are,the,goals,of,our,lotion?'If'we're'making'a'hand'lotion,'we'want'something'that'glides'nicely'over'our'skin,'something'that'feels'occlusive,'and'something'that'feels'light'and'non,greasy.''I'm'going'to'use'five'of'my'esters','C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'and'ethylhexyl'palmitate,'cetyl'esters,'and'isopropyl'palmitate.'The'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'are'my'oils','those'will'offer'non,greasy'feeling'slip'and'glide'as'well'as'emolliency.'(The'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'is'occlusive,'so'it'will'take'the'place'of'the'occlusivity'I'might'get'from'my'dimethicone'as'well.)'The'ethylhexyl'palmitate'is'replacing'the'dimethicone'I'd'normally'use'in'a'recipe'(for'those'who'don't'like'silicones).'The'cetyl'esters'will'replace'the'cetyl'alcohol'as'my'thickener,'and'the'IPP'will'offer'a'little'more'non,greasiness'to'the'mix.'You'could'use'Super'Sterol'in'this'mixture','I'don't'have'much'of'it,'and'I'm'saving'it'for'sera,'facial'moisturizers,'and'lip'balms,'but'it'would'be'a'really'nice'addition.'And'you'can'substitute'IPM'for'IPP.''Because'I'want'something'lighter,'I'm'going'with'10%'cetearyl'hexanoate'and'5%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate.'If'you'want'something'a'little'thicker'and'more'occlusive,'you'can'switch'the'numbers'or'use'half'and'half.''What'else'do'I'want'to'tweak'here?'Because'we'aren't'getting'those'lovely'fatty'acids'with'all'their'wonderful'properties'from'our'oils,'we'want'to'consider'including'a'few'things'to'offer'those'possible'healing,'anti,oxidant,'anti,inflammatory,'and'moisturizing'qualities'we'would'normally'get'in'our'vegetable'based'oils.'Instead'of'shea'butter,'I'


think'I'll'use'my'babassu'oil.'It'll'thicken'up'the'lotion'but'feel'very'light'and'non,greasy.'You'can'use'shea'or'mango'butter'for'a'slightly'thicker'and'slightly'more'occlusive'lotion,'but'I'm'having'a'love'affair'with'babassu,'hence'the'inclusion'in'this'lotion!'I'want'to'include'some'oat'protein'for'the'film'forming'properties'and'panthenol'for'the'hygroscopic'and'wound'healing'properties.'I'll'use'both'of'these'at'2%.''I'like'my'aloe'vera,'so'I'll'use'10%'and'remove'that'from'the'water'phase,'and'I'think'I'll'go'with'chamomile'hydrosol'for'the'anti,inflammatory'properties'at'10%'as'well.'In'the'cool'down'phase,'I'think'I'll'include'some'green'tea'extract'for'the'anti,oxidant'properties'(use'at'0.5%)'and'more'chamomile'at'0.5%'for'extra'anti,inflammatory'properties.'As'usual,'you'can'play'with'your'favourite'extracts.'If'you'have'something'like'liquid'green'tea'extract'with'a'suggested'use'of'5%'in'the'water'phase,'just'remove'that'much'water'and'use'it!'And'if'you'have'something'like'green'tea'butter,'you'could'use'that'in'place'of'the'shea,'mango,'or'babassu'oil'as'a'double'duty'kind'of'product!''Oh,'wait!'I'need'a'humectant!'I'think'I'll'go'with'honeyquat'at'3%'in'this'recipe,'but'you'could'use'any'humectant'of'your'choice','3%'glycerin,'2.5%'sodium'lactate'or'sodium'PCA,'3%'Hydrovance.'I'm'choosing'honeyquat'because'it'offers'skin'conditioning'and'behaves'like'a'really'nice'humectant.''A'quick'note:'If'you're'using'BTMS,50'or'honeyquat'in'this'lotion,'remember'you'can't'use'Tinosan'preservative'with'cationic'ingredients.'''Okay,'so'what'do'we'have?'We've'increased'our'oils'amount'by'6%,'which'means'we'need'to'increase'our'emulsifier'to'about'25%'of'the'oil'phase.'With'a'total'oil'phase'of'29%,'we'need'to'use'about'7.5%'emulsifier.'(Click'here'to'see'my'post'on'how'much'Polawax'to'use!)''

HAND&LOTION&WITH&ESTERS,&GREEN&TEA&&&CHAMOMILE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'34%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'2%'protein'of'choice'(I'm'using'oat'protein)''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'esters','10%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'&'5%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'


4%'ethylhexyl'palmitate'5%'babassu'oil'3%'cetyl'esters'2%'IPP'or'IPM'7.5%'emulsifier'(BTMS,'Polawax,'or'emulsifying'wax'NF)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'3%'honeyquat'2%'panthenol'0.5%'green'tea'extract'0.5%'chamomile'extract'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'(This'doesn't'total'100%'because'of'the'difference'in'preservatives!)''Use'the'lotion'making'instructions'linked'above'for'this'lotion!''If'you'want'all'the'goodness'of'the'vegetable'oils'in'this'lotion,'you'can'add'something'like'sunflower'oil'mixed'with'the'esters'to'get'the'properties'you'like.'If'you'want'to'use'silicones,'then'you'can'remove'the'ethylhexyl'palmitate'and'add'the'2%'dimethicone'and'2%'cyclomethicone'to'the'cool'down'phase'(and'add'another'1%'to'your'emulsifier'amount).''This'is'a'highly'tweakable'recipe'for'a'body'or'hand'lotion.'It'll'end'up'being'quite'light'but'slightly'occlusive.'It'should'have'a'shelf'life'of'at'least'a'year','the'protein'and'the'extracts'have'one'year'shelf'lives','and'you'don't'need'to'include'the'Vitamin'E'to'retard'rancidity'because'all'the'oils'have'two'year'shelf'lives,'including'the'shea'butter.''So'what'do'I'think'of'this'lotion?'I'love'it!'It's'very'light'and'non,greasy,'and'you'can'rub'it'in'for'a'few'minutes'without'it'getting'hard'to'spread,'but'I'really'do'miss'using'my'vanilla'based'scents.'I'think'most'of'my'favourites'are'vanilla'based,'and'it'was'really'hard'to'find'something'that'wasn't.'In'the'end,'I'went'with'pina'colada'and'it'does'smell'lovely.'(And'I'can'still'smell'the'fragrance'on'my'skin'the'next'day,'thanks'to'the'fragrance'fixing'abilities'of'the'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate.)'I'really'like'it'as'a'hand'lotion,'but'I'think'I'want'something'slightly'more'occlusive'for'a'body'lotion.''


ESTERS:,Tweaking,a,hand,lotion,into,a,body,lotion,How'is'a'body'lotion'different'than'a'hand'lotion?'I'like'my'body'lotions'to'be'thicker'and'more'occlusive.'So'I'll'switch'the'cetyl'esters'for'cetyl'alcohol'and'change'and'increase'the'butter.'I'think'shea'butter'will'give'me'that'occlusion'I'want'and'I'll'up'it'to'10%'to'increase'the'thickness'of'the'lotion.'As'I'mentioned'yesterday,'I'miss'my'occlusion,'so'I'll'add'my'silicones'back'into'the'cool'down'phase'at'2%'cyclomethicone'and'2%'dimethicone.'Because'I've'included'these,'I'can'remove'the'ethylhexyl'palmitate'as'a'substitute.'''

I'm'out'of'powdered'green'tea'extract,'so'I'll'use'the'5%'liquid'in'place'of'some'of'the'water,'but'I'm'still'keeping'the'aloe'vera,'which'is'both'a'skin'conditioning'ingredient'and'a'humectant,'and'I'm'keeping'the'chamomile.'I'am'changing'my'humectant'because'I'like'glycerin'in'my'body'products:'I'don't'mind'the'slight'stickiness.'I'll'use'it'at'3%'because'I'already'have'the'aloe'and'panthenol'as'additional'humectants.'I'm'still'using'my'chamomile'hydrosol'and'powdered'extract'as'I'really'like'what'they'offer'to'the'lotion.''Finally,'I've'increased'the'emulsifier'to'compensate'for'the'extra'butter'and'silicones.'

BODY&LOTION&WITH&GREEN&TEA,&CHAMOMILE,&AND&ESTERS&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'29%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'5%'liquid'green'tea'extract'3%'glycerin'2%'protein'of'choice'(I'm'using'oat'protein)''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'esters','10%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'&'5%'ethylhexyl'myristate'10%'shea'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPP'or'IPM'8.5%'emulsifier'(BTMS,'Polawax,'or'emulsifying'wax'NF)''


COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'2%'panthenol'0.5%'chamomile'extract'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''This'is'definitely'a'thicker'product'with'incredible'spread'and'glide.'I'm'always'surprised'at'the'spreading'ability'of'the'esters','I'swear'this'gets'easier'to'spread'as'I'rub'it'into'my'skin,'rather'than'harder!'If'you'want'something'lighter,'you'can'use'the'babassu'oil'in'here'(did'I'mention'I'm'having'a'love'affair'with'this'stuff?)'and'remember'you'can'leave'out'the'silicones'and'add'a'silicone'substitute.''

ESTERS:,PEG[7,olivate,(or,olive,oil,PEG[7,esters),As'you'can'tell'by'the'name,'PEG,7'olivate'is'derived'from'oleic'acid,'which,'in'this'case,'comes'from'olive'oil.'It'seems'that'what'you'll'find'at'your'supplier'is'OlivEm'300,'a'brand'name'for'the'product'from'B&T'in'Italy.'It's'a'polyethylene'glycol'ester,'which'means'it's'considered'a'surfactant'with'a'hydrophilic'head'and'lipophilic'tail.''PEG,7'olivate'is'an'odourless'and'clear'to'pale'yellow'ingredient'with'a'pH'of'5'to'7,'an'HLB'of'11,'and'a'shelf'life'of'three'years.'It's'soluble'in'water'and'alcohol'and'dispersible'in'oils.'It'can'be'used'as'a'light'solubilizer'for'other'ingredients'like'essential'or'fragrance'oils,'and'it'plays'well'with'gels!'Although'it's'a'light'feeling'ester,'it'isn't'a'non,greasy'one'like'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'or'IPP,'and'won't'reduce'the'feeling'of'greasiness'in'your'products.'(If'you'use'PEG,7'olivate'instead'of'olive'oil'in'your'creations,'it'will'feel'lighter'and'less'greasy'than'the'same'product'with'olive'oil,'but'it'doesn't'feel'less'greasy'on'its'own.)''I'am'a'huge'fan'of'this'ester'because'you'can'use'it'in'just'about'everything!'It's'used'as'an'emollient,'lubricant,'anti,irritant,'solubilizer,'and'thickener.'It'won't'reduce'foaming'in'your'lathery'surfactant'products,'and'it'will'offer'slightly'creamier'feeling'suds,'emolliency,'and'"oil'free"'moisturizing.'It'also'acts'as'a'thickener,'although'the'thickening'I've'experienced'has'been'very'minor'and'I'wouldn't'consider'it'a'true'thickener'like'Crothix'or'glycol'distearate.'In'my'experience,'it'will'thicken'water'based'products,'like'toners'or'make,up'removers'slightly.'And'as'an'anti,irritant,'it'will'


increase'the'mildness'of'your'foamy'surfactants'to'make'for'a'more'gentle'facial'or'body'cleanser.''PEG,7'olivate'is'a'fantastic'inclusion'in'hair'care'products','shampoo,'conditioner,'leave'in'conditioner,'styling'gels','as'an'"oil'free"'moisturizer.'You'can'use'it'in'your'cleansers'as'an'additional'cleansing'ingredient','it's'safe'for'your'eyes!','and'you'can'use'it'in'toners'or'water'based'body'sprays'to'increase'the'emolliency.'You'can'use'this'in'a'moisturizer'as'your'oil'portion'to'create'an'"oil'free"'moisturizer.''You're%probably%wondering%why%I%keep%putting%"oil%free"%in%quotation%marks.%No,%it's%not%"use%quotation%marks%randomly%day"%?%although%there%really%should%be%a%day%for%that!%?%it's%because%it's%not%really%an%oil%but%our%bodies%react%to%the%esters%as%if%they%were%oil.%People%with%oily%skin%and%hair%generally%tolerate%esters%better%than%oils%and%are%less%likely%to%feel%more%greasy%as%they%would%with%regular,%non?esterified%oils.%Don't%you%love%the%word%"esterified"?%'Is'it'really'water'soluble'olive'oil?'No.'Unfortunately,'we'lose'all'those'lovely'phytosterols'and'polyphenols'that'make'olive'oil'such'a'great'oil,'but'we'do'get'the'benefits'of'oleic'acid'in'a'water'soluble'form.'Oleic'acid'tends'to'be'very'moisturizing,'softening,'and'regenerating'to'our'skin.'It'offers'some'anti,inflammatory'properties'and'can'mimic'our'natural'sebum.'We'll'get'these'features'in'PEG,7'olivate,'which'means'we'can'make'a'toner'or'body'wash'more'moisturizing!''

ESTERS:,Crodamol,STS,(or,PPG[3,benzyl,ether,myristate),Crodamol'STS'(aka'PPG,3'benzyl'ether'myristate,'but'I'm'typing'Crodamol'STS'instead!)'is'a'PPG,ester'that'behaves'a'lot'like'our'alkyl'esters!'It's'a'great'detackifier,'good'spreader,'and'dry'feeling'emollient.'It'offers'good'film'forming'abilities'on'our'hair'and'skin,'which'is'why'it's'considered'a'silicone'substitute'for'dimethicone.''It'can'be'used'at'1%'to'15%'in'our'products,'but'it'disperses'well'in'surfactant'systems'(like'shampoo'or'body'wash)'at'3%.'It'is'soluble'in'alcohol,'insoluble'in'water,'and'soluble'in'oils'and'cyclomethicone.'It'is'soluble'in'some'surfactants'like'ammonium'lauryl'sulfate'(ALS)'and'triethanolamine'lauryl'sulfate'(TEALS),'and'dispersible'in'sodium'laureth'sulfate'(SLeS).''


What's&the&difference&between&soluble&and&dispersible?%When%something%is%soluble,%it%means%it%will%dissolve%in%the%solvent%and%becomes%part%of%a%homogeneous%solution.%Think%of%it%like%salt%dissolving%in%water.%If%you've%dissolved%it%correctly,%you%can't%see%the%flecks%of%salt%floating%in%the%water.%When%something%is%dispersible,%it%means%it%will%stay%suspended%in%the%mixture,%but%it%will%always%be%separate%and%won't%form%a%homogeneous%solution.%When%we%use%fragrance%or%essential%oils%in%something%like%a%body%wash,%the%oils%aren't%dissolved%but%suspended.%We%don't%notice%a%huge%difference%unless%those%oils%separate%out%and%form%an%oily%mass%on%top%of%the%body%wash,%which%can%happen%if%you%use%too%much!%%'Crodamol'STS'is'used'in'a'lot'of'mineral'make,up'products'as'a'pigment'wetter','apparently'it's'good'for'pressing'powders','and'in'lipsticks'because'of'its'great'wax'solvency.'It's'considered'a'great'inclusion'in'foundations'because'it'has'a'non,greasy'feel'and'great'spreading'abilities.''It's'used'in'anti,perspirants'to'reduce'tackiness'and'increase'glide.'It's'a'good'emollient'in'body'oils'because'of'its'great'spreading,'detackifying,'and'gliding'properties.'And'it's'good'for'bath'oils'as'it'spreads'well'on'water.'It's'easily'emulsifiable'in'any'lotion'products,'and'can'be'used'as'a'substitute'for'any'oils'you'might'include'in'a'lotion'or'cream.''Where'Crodamol'STS'really'shines','and'you'll'excuse'the'pun'in'a'moment','is'in'hair'care'products.'It's'used'as'an'alternative'to'dimethicone'because'it'can'offer'film'forming,'emolliency,'and'detackifying'like'this'silicone.'(Note'though,'dimethicone'is'approved'as'a'barrier'ingredient'by'the'FDA;'Crodamol'STS'isn't.)'It'works'as'a'skin'and'hair'conditioner,'increasing'detangling'and'lubricity'of'our'hair.''Remember'that'we'want'to'reduce'the'friction'on'our'hair,'which'will'increase'the'ease'with'which'we'can'comb'our'hair'wet'and'dry,'and'it'decreases'damage'as'the'hair'strands'can'move'more'easily'over'other'strands.''Where'a'lot'of'the'silicone'substitutes'fail'is'in'the'shine'that'dimethicone'normally'gives'to'our'hair.'Crodamol'STS'offers'higher'refraction'rates'than'cyclomethicone'or'dimethicone,'which'means'it'should'make'our'hair'look'shinier.''


An&aside&on&the&refractive&index...&All%materials%reflect%and%refract%light,%which%is%to%say%all%materials%alter%the%angle%of%light.%The%refractive%index%is%a%ratio%defined%as%the%speed%of%light%in%a%vacuum%(which%equals%1)%over%the%speed%of%light%in%the%material.%Light%slows%down%when%it%enters%a%substance,%so%every%refractive%index%will%be%over%1.%The%higher%the%refractive%index,%the%higher%the%light%intensity%reflected%from%the%surface.%Titanium%dioxide%has%a%refractive%index%of%2.7,%one%of%the%highest%of%all%materials,%and%diamonds%are%about%2.419%?%and%we%know%how%sparkly%they%can%be!%?%whereas%water%is%around%1.33.%%'So'based'on'the'refractive'index,'Crodamol'STS'should'make'your'hair'appear'shinier'with'a'refractive'index'of'1.4696'versus'cyclomethicone's'1.394'to'1.398'and'dimethicone's'1.375'to'1.403.'It'should'give'you'a'better'shine'than'either'of'the'silicones,'and'can'be'used'with'the'other'silicones'in'your'products!''Does'it'work'as'well'as'a'dimethicone'substitute'in'my'oh,so,humble'opinion?'My'hair'rarely'shines'with'all'the'kinks'and'curls,'so'I'can't'judge'it'on'that'basis.'It'works'well'as'a'dimethicone'substitute'for'lubricity,'emolliency,'and'conditioning'in'shampoos'and'conditioners,'but'I'couldn't'recommend'it'for'a'frizzy'haired'girl'like'me'as'it'simply'doesn't'repel'the'water'enough'to'keep'the'frizzies'away'in'really'humid'conditions!'I've'tried'it'in'conditioners,'leave'in'conditioners,'and'anti,frizz'sprays'and'although'my'hair'felt'really'nice,'the'de,frizzing'ability'in'my'hair'was'on'par'with'using'cyclomethicone'alone,'which'is'to'say'it'felt'like'I'wasn't'using'any'dimethicone'at'all!''

ESTERS:,Di[PPG[2,myeth[10,adipate,(or,Cromollient,SCE),Cromollient'SCE'(INCI'Di,PPG,2'myeth,10'adipate','but'I'm'not'typing'that'every'time!)'is'a'PPG'ester'that'is'water'dispersible'and'oil'and'surfactant'soluble.''A'lot'of'people'get'this'product'to'make'dispersible'bath'oils'in'the'place'of'polysorbate'80,'but'it'has'so'

many'other'purposes!''Cromollient'SCE'is'a'fantastic'emollient'for'hair'care'products,'and'works'well'with'surfactants'for'shampoos'and'emulsified'products'like'conditioners.'It'can'be'used'in'rinse'off'and'leave'in'products'at'a'suggested'rate'of'1%'for'leave'ins'up'to'3%'in'rinse,offs.'(You'can'use'3%'in'the'leave'in'if'you'want'more'emollience!)'It'will'still'produce'


clear'products'like'body'washes'and'shampoos,'and'it'can'reduce'the'wet'combing'forces'of'our'hair'up'to'50%'better'than'products'without'it.'It'also'offers'detangling,'which'is'always'a'great'thing.'And'it'doesn't'depress'foam'the'way'oils'might,'so'you'can'still'get'great'lather!'Oh,'and'it'acts'as'an'irritation'migitator'so'our'products'are'more'gentle'to'our'skin!''It's'great'in'mineral'make,up'as'well,'helping'us'press'our'powders'or'dissolve'the'wax'in'lipsticks.''You'can'use'it'in'a'cleansing'oil'at'up'to'15%'and'it's'good'for'make,up'removers'as'it'is'a'surfactant,'so'it'will'make'all'the'oil,'grease,'and'other'things'we'build'up'on'our'skin'during'the'day'rinse'away'cleanly.'You'can'use'it'as'the'water'soluble'emollient'in'things'like'toners'or'cooling'sprays,'and'you'can'use'it'in'your'anhydrous'products'like'lotion'bars,'but'it's'probably'better'to'use'another'ester'in'its'place'as'it'isn't'the'most'emollient'ester'we've'met'so'far!''If'you'want'to'use'it'as'a'bath'product'emulsifier,'have'fun!'You'can'use'at'up'to'10%'in'a'dispersing'bath'oil'and'up'to'2%'in'your'bath'bombs'as'an'emollient'and'emulsifier.''Cromollient'SCE'is'soluble'in'mineral'oil,'alcohol,'and'some'surfactants.'It's'dispersible'in'water'and'propylene'glycol,'and'insoluble'in'glycerin.'It'can'be'added'in'the'heated'oil'or'cool'down'stage,'and'it'has'a'shelf'life'of'at'least'2'years.''

ESTERS:,Crodamol,PMP,or,PPG[2,myristyl,ether,propionate,PPG,2'myristyl'ether'propionate'(also'known'as'Crodamol'PMP)'is'a'PPG'ester'that'is'soluble'in'aqueous'and'alcoholic'systems'and'in'oil'based'products.'It's'a'clear,'odourless*,'

light,'high'spreading'emollient'that'behaves'as'a'greasiness'reducer'and'de,tackifier'(click'here'for'more'on'this'topic).'It'will'form'light'non,occlusive,'dry,feeling'films'on'our'skin'to'give'us'a'feeling'of'moisturizing'without'a'lot'of'greasiness.''Before%we%go%on%I%have%to%tell%you%this%is%not%odourless%to%some%of%us.%It%has%a%weird%vinegary%scent%that%I%and%a%few%others%have%noticed.%When%I%made%a%body%oil%with%it,%I%had%to%add%4%%fragrance%oil%to%try%to%overcome%at%smell.%I%don't%think%my%bottle%was%


rancid%?%it%has%a%really%long%shelf%life%?%and%I%found%it%really%awful.%My%mother%and%husband%didn't%think%it%was%too%bad,%but%my%best%friend%and%her%husband%found%it%offensive.%If%you're%using%it%at%3%%in%a%body%wash,%you%won't%notice%it%?%straight%out%of%the%bottle%is%really%over%the%top%and%10%%in%a%body%oil%was%too%much%for%me.%And%I'm%really%annoyed%about%this%because%it's%an%amazing%feeling%ester%with%so%many%uses!%I'm%not%saying%you%shouldn't%use%it%and%perhaps%you%won't%notice%the%odour,%but%I%wouldn't%use%it%in%an%unfragranced%product!%This%could%be%like%BTMS?50%?%some%people%notice%a%fishy%odour,%most%people%don't%?%but%I've%never%had%anyone%who%could%smell%the%fishiness%in%a%conditioner%even%at%10%%usage%in%an%unfragranced%or%1%%fragranced%product.%''Crodamol'PMP'is'used'as'a'replacement'for'oils'in'emulsified'products'and'body'oils'at'2%'to'20%,'and'can'be'used'in'water'based'products'like'surfactant'systems,'much'the'same'way'we've'been'using'Cromollient'SCE,'and'you'will'get'a'clear'body'wash'or'shampoo'with'it!'It'can'be'used'in'place'of'mineral'oil'or'castor'oil'in'lipsticks'as'a'degreasing'ingredient.'''It'behaves'as'an'emulsifier,'so'it'can'be'used'to'include'oil'based'ingredients'into'water'or'alcohol'based'systems,'so'if'you'wanted'to'use'a'little'more'oil'in'a'surfactant'system'or'in'a'water'based'spray,'you'can'use'a'little'Crodamol'PMP'to'help'solubilize'those'oils!'''I'see'Crodamol'PMP'as'being'the'meeting'point'of'all'the'various'esters'as'it'can'be'used'in'water'soluble'and'oil'soluble'products'easily.'It'behaves'as'a'very'light'oil'that'can'be'included'in'pretty'much'every'product'we'make'from'body'washes'and'hair'care'products'to'lotions'and'body'oils.'We'can'use'it'in'place'of'the'oil'soluble'only'esters','like'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'ethylhexyl'palmitate,'and'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','and'it'can'be'used'in'place'of'the'water'soluble'esters','like'PEG,7'olivate,'Crodamol'STS,'and'Cromollient'SCE.'Because'it'behaves'as'a'solublizer,'you'can'use'it'to'integrate'small'amounts'of'oil'based'or'water'based'ingredients'in'normally'aqueous'or'anhydrous'products!'(They'do'mean'small'amounts','I'tried'putting'5%'water'based'ingredients'into'a'body'oil'spray'and'it'separated.'So'I'd'keep'the'amount'really'really'small'for'water'based'ingredients'in'an'oil'based'products.'It'works'very'well'to'solubilize'oils'or'fragrance'oils'into'watery'products...you'll'see'that'in'a'few'days!)'''And'it'has'another'interesting'feature','it'can'be'used'to'reduce'the'freezing'point'of'our'products.'Let's'say'you'have'a'body'wash'or'bubble'bath'or'lotion'you'want'to'send'to'a'friend'in'northern'B.C.'as'a'Christmas'present.'Add'a'little'Crodamol'PMP'to'the'mix','


2%'to'5%','and'you'can'ensure'it'will'reach'her'in'a'liquid'state.'(As'a'note,'humectants'like'propylene'glycol'and'glycerin'also'do'this!)'Probably'not'a'big'concern'for'most'of'us,'but'considering'there's'a'titer'point'for'surfactants'where'they'll'go'cloudy'and'stay'there,'if'you'live'in'a'cold'climate'where'your'unheated'workshop'might'see'a'little'freezing'of'your'products'(yep,'my'oils'can'freeze'in'my'workshop'in'winter,'but'I'see'that'as'a'way'of'extending'their'shelf'lives!).''

ESTERS:,POLYSORBATES,Yep,'polysorbates','like'polysorbate'20'and'80','are'esters!'They're'ethoxylated'sorbitan'esters,'which'means'they'start'off'as'sorbitan'and'are'esterified,'then'they'are'reacted'with'ethylene'oxide'to'create'a'non,ionic'surfactant'with'a'water'loving'head'and'lipophilic'tail.'You'might'find'them'as'"tween'20"'or'"tween'80",'which'means'they're'derived'this'way,'or'"span'20"'or'"span'80",'which'means'they're'esters'of'non,PEG,ylated'sorbitan'esterified'with'fatty'acids.'(I'm'not'covering'the'span'series'of'polysorbates'here'because'very'few'of'us'use'them!)''So'what'does'the'number'mean'after'the'"polysorbate"'part'of'the'name?'It'doesn't'designate'the'number'of'oxyethylene'groups'found'in'the'molecule'like'it'does'with'the'other'esters'because'each'polysorbate'has'20'oxyethylene'functional'groups'in'the'molecule.'It'indicates'the'type'fatty'acid'used'as'the'base.'Polysorbate'20'is'monolaurate,'polysorbate'40'is'monopalmitate,'polysorbate'60'is'monostearate,'and'polysorbate'80'is'monooleate.'These'are'all'based'upon'the'various'fatty'acids','lauric'(C14),'palmitic'(C16),'stearic'(C18:0),'and'oleic'(C18:1).'They'have'different'things'they'can'solubilize'and'that's'based'upon'the'originating'fatty'acid.''

'These'are'considered'to'be'non,ionic'surfactants'in'that'they'have'a'hydrophilic'head'and'a'lipophilic'tail'that'can'solubilize'ingredients'that'wouldn't'normally'come'together.'(A'solubilizer'aids'in'dissolving'ingredients'that'wouldn't'normally'otherwise'dissolve'into'each'other,'as'you'might'recall'from'the'early'sections'of'this'e,book!)'As'we'know,'water'and'oil'don't'really'like'each'other'

and'will'eventually'separate'into'layers'of'oil'and'water'that'need'to'be'shaken.'By'adding'polysorbate'20'or'polysorbate'80'(the'most'common'ones'we'find'at'our'suppliers),'we'can'include'something'like'a'fragrance'or'essential'oil'(polysorbate'20)'or'a'carrier'oil'(polysorbate'80)'into'our'surfactant'or'water'based'products.'Polysorbates'

Indre


will'emulsify'sebum,'so'they'are'also'considered'to'be'very'very'mild'non,foaming,'non,lathering'non,ionic'cleansers,'which'you'can'include'in'oil'based'cleansers,'and'they'will'increase'the'mildness'and'reduce'irritation'in'surfactant'products.'They'will'suppress'the'foam'slightly,'so'they're'not'suitable'for'low'foamy'surfactant'products,'but'we'can'use'them'to'suppress'foam'in'things'like'facial'cleansers,'where'suds'and'lather'aren't'welcome!'''Polysorbates'are'readily'biodegradable'and'polysorbate'60'and'80'are'acceptable'food'additives'(look'at'the'Twinkies'package'next'time'you'snarf'one'down!),'and'they'are'considered'non,comedogenic,'so'you'can'use'them'in'your'facial'products!'''

POLYSORBATE&20&Polysorbate'20'has'an'HLB'value'of'16.7'and'can'be'used'as'a'solubilizer'for'fragrance'or'essential'oils.'We'can'use'it'in'combination'with'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'(like'glycol'distearate)'to'create'an'

emulsification'system,'or'we'can'use'it'alone'in'water'or'surfactant'based'products'to'incorporate'fragrance'or'essential'oils'(like'toners,'body'washes,'and'so'on).'''Polysorbate'20'is'soluble'in'water'and'glycerin,'partially'soluble'in'fractionated'coconut'oil,'IPM,'and'mineral'oil.''

POLYSORBATE&80&Polysorbate'20'has'an'HLB'value'of'15'and'can'be'used'as'a'solubilizer'for'fragrance'and'essential'oils'as'well'as'carrier'oils.'We'can'use'it'in'combination'with'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'(like'glycol'distearate)'to'create'an'

emulsification'system,'or'we'can'use'it'alone'in'water'or'surfactant'based'products'to'incorporate'fragrance,'essential,'and'carrier'oils'(like'toners,'body'washes,'and'so'on).'''Polysorbate'80'is'soluble'in'water,'partially'soluble'in'fractionated'coconut'oil'and'soy'bean'oil,'and'insoluble'in'glycerin.''


You'can'see'the'tail'on'the'polysorbate'80'is'much'longer'than'that'of'the'polysorbate'20','this'is'thanks'to'the'longer'fatty'acid'used.'Monolaurate'has'14'carbons,'whereas'monooleate'has'18'carbons'with'one'double'bond'in'the'middle.'''To'sum'it'up,'we'generally'use'polysorbate'20'for'essential'and'fragrance'oils','I'use'it'in'a'pinch'with'some'of'the'lighter'oils'like'fractionated'coconut'oil'or'IPM'when'I'm'out'of'polysorbate'80','and'we'generally'use'polysorbate'80'for'carrier'oils.'You'can'use'polysorbate'80'for'essential'and'fragrance'oils,'but'you'can't'use'polysorbate'20'for'carrier'oils.'If'you'can'only'get'one,'polysorbate'80'is'a'good'choice'as'it'can'do'the'job'of'polysorbate'20'as'well'as'its'own!'''''''''


SUBSTITUTIONS:,MODIFYING,A,LOTION,WITH,INGREDIENTS,YOU,HAVE,So'let's'say'you'see'this'recipe'and'you'really'want'to'try'it,'but'you're'missing'a'few'things.'

TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION&WATER'PHASE'46.5%'water'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'3%'propylene'glycol'2%'sodium'PCA'2%'phytokeratin''OIL'PHASE'20%'oils','8%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'6%'wheat'germ'oil,'and'6%'matcha'green'tea'butter'6%'Polawax'3%'cetyl'esters''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'(Cream'cheese'frosting'from'Brambleberry,'as'usual!)'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'Vitamin'E'5%'liquid'green'tea'extract''But'you're'missing'a'few'ingredients.'How'can'you'figure'out'what'to'substitute?'Break'the'recipe'down!''

Water:'Well,'this'is'essential,'and'we'all'have'access'to'it,'so'that's'not'an'issue.''Chamomile,hydrosol:'This'hydrosol'the'benefits'of'chamomile'in'a'liquid'form.'It'offers'anti,inflammatory'and'anti,irritant'properties,'and'might'reduce'redness.'You'could'leave'it'out'and'use'water,'use'powdered'extract'in'the'cool'down'phase,'or'find'a'hydrosol'or'extract'that'offers'


similar'properties'(lavender'hydrosol'has'similar'properties).''Propylene,glycol:'A'humectant.'Can'be'substituted'with'glycerin'or'other'humectants'you'might'like.''Sodium,PCA:'A'humectant.'Again,'you'can'substitute'it'with'the'humectant'of'your'choice.'In'this'recipe,'we'have'two'humectants,'so'you'could'leave'either'one'or'both'out'if'you'don't'want'one.'(I'wouldn't'leave'out'a'humectant'in'a'lotion','to'me,'it's'essential','but'it'won't'mess'with'the'chemistry'of'the'lotion'if'you'omit'it.)''Phytokeratin:'A'hydrolyzed'protein.'You'can'substitute'any'hydrolyzed'protein'of'choice.'Silk'will'penetrate,'oat'will'film'form,'so'choose'your'product'accordingly.'Or'you'can'leave'it'out.'I'like'to'include'proteins'to'film'form,'but'we'already'have'a'ton'of'film'formers'in'the'recipe,'so'you'could'consider'omitting'it.''C12[15,alkyl,benzoate:'An'ester'used'as'an'emollient'in'this'recipe.'It's'a'light'feeling,'high'spreading'emollient,'so'you'could'substitute'any'light'oil'you'might'have.'I'd'probably'go'with'fractionated'coconut'oil,'but'you'can'choose'anything'you'have'in'your'workshop.''Wheat,germ,oil:'It's'a'high'linoleic,'high'Vitamin'E,'high'phytosterols,'slightly'greasy'feeling'oil,'so'if'you'wanted'a'direct'substitute,'I'd'go'with'soybean'oil'as'my'first'choice.'Rice'bran'or'sesame'oil'would'be'good'choices'if'you'are'interested'in'high'levels'of'linoleic'acid'or'phytosterols.'(Click'here'for'the'list'of'oils.)''

Matcha,green,tea,butter:'This'isn't'a'true'butter','it's'sweet'almond'oil'and'hydrogenated'vegetable'oil'with'green'tea'leaf'powder.'You'could'substitute'this'with'any'butter'and'add'the'green'tea'extract'in'another'form,'for'instance,'liquid'or'powdered'extract.'It's'a'slightly'dry'feeling'butter,'so'using'mango'would'probably'be'my'first'choice,'but'any'butter'will'do.''

Polawax:'Our'emulsifier.'You'can'use'Incroquat'BTMS,50'or'any'other'emulsifier'you'prefer.'If'you're'using'an'HLB'system'emulsifier'you're'creating,'you'will'have'to'work'


out'the'value'because'something'like'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'has'an'HLB'13'and'cetyl'esters'have'an'HLB'of'10,'but'I'm'sure'you'already'know'that!''Cetyl,esters:'Our'thickener.'You'can'use'any'fatty'alcohol'or'fatty'acid'of'your'choice.'Cetyl'esters'tend'to'feel'lighter'than'cetyl'alcohol'and'the'product'will'feel'thicker'if'you'substitute'it'with'cetyl'alcohol.'If'you'use'stearic,'you'll'probably'end'up'with'a'cream'type'product.''Fragrance,oil:'You'can'leave'this'out'or'use'essential'oils'at'safe'levels.''Liquid,Germall,Plus:'Our'preservative.'Choose'any'other'preservative'you'like,'but'make'sure'it's'suitable'for'products'containing'water.''Vitamin,E:'Our'anti,oxidant.'If'you're'including'green'tea'extract,'odds'are'good'you'have'enough,'but'I'included'this'just'to'make'sure'because'the'wheat'germ'oil'has'a'shorter'shelf'life.'If'you're'using'a'long'shelf'life'oil','for'instance,'soybean'oil','you'won't'need'to'worry'about'adding'this'at'all.''Liquid,green,tea,extract:'You'can'add'powdered'extract,'but'the'powder'can'mess'with'the'emulsification'of'your'product.'Use'0.5%'in'the'cool'down'phase'dissolved'in'a'little'warm'water','take'the'water'out'of'the'water'phase!'Or'consider'using'another'extract'you'might'like.'I'love'liquid'calendula'extract!''Each'ingredient'you'substitute'can'alter'the'skin'feel'of'the'product.'Substituting'glycerin'for'sodium'PCA'might'make'your'lotion'feel'a'little'stickier'than'the'original'product,'switching'oils'can'make'the'product'feel'drier,'greasier,'lighter,'or'heavier,'and'changing'emulsifiers'can'have'a'similar'effect.''In'this'first'recipe,'I'm'trying'to'get'a'similar'skin'feel,'which'is'to'say'I'm'going'for'an'oily'version.'Note'the'increase'in'the'water'amount'as'I'am'leaving'out'the'liquid'green'tea'extract'in'favour'of'powdered'green'tea'extract.'

MODIFIED&TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION&#1&WATER'PHASE'51%'water'10%'lavender'hydrosol'3%'glycerin'2%'sodium'lactate'


2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein''OIL'PHASE'20%'oils','8%'fractionated'coconut'oil,'6%'soybean'oil,'and'6%'mango'butter'6%'Polawax'3%'cetyl'alcohol''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'(Cream'cheese'frosting'from'Brambleberry,'as'usual!)'1%'Germaben'II'1%'Vitamin'E'0.5%'powdered'green'tea'extract''Let's'say'you'prefer'a'drier'lotion.'It's'easy'to'modify'the'recipe'to'include'those'ingredients'that'will'make'a'lotion'feel'less'greasy.'Substituting'BTMS,50'for'Polawax'will'do'the'trick'nicely,'and'I'll'add'2%'IPM'or'IPP'as'well.'I'can'choose'another'ester','let's'say'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','to'offer'a'less'greasy'feel','but'I'm'keeping'the'wheat'germ'oil'for'its'lovely'benefits'and'the'mango'butter'for'its'astringency.'

'In'this'next'version,'I'm'adding'a'bit'of'water'soluble'calendula'extract'in'place'of'the'liquid'green'tea'extract'for'its'anti,oxidant'and'anti,inflammatory'properties.'I'll'use'neroli'or'orange'blossom'hydrosol'to'give'it'that'drier'feel,'but'I'm'leaving'my'humectants'the'same.'Finally,'I'm'using'stearic'acid'instead'of'cetyl'alcohol'to'make'it'more'of'a'cream'than'a'lotion.''

MODIFIED&TRYING&NEW&THINGS&OUT&LOTION&#2&WATER'PHASE'44.5%'water'10%'neroli'or'orange'blossom'hydrosol'3%'propylene'glycol'2%'sodium'PCA'2%'phytokeratin''OIL'PHASE'20%'oils','8%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'6%'wheat'germ'oil,'and'6%'mango'butter'6%'Incroquat'BTMS,50'


3%'stearic'acid'2%'IPP'or'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'oil'(Cream'cheese'frosting'from'Brambleberry,'as'usual!)'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'Vitamin'E'5%'liquid'calendula'extract''So'there'you'have'two'lotions'based'on'one'lotion,'and'both'will'feel'quite'different'from'each'other'and'the'original!''

SUBTITUTIONS:,MORE,IDEAS,FOR,TWEAKING,A,LOTION,(BODY,BUTTER),How'many'times'have'you'stumbled'across'an'amazing'sounding'recipe'only'to'realize'you'have'maybe'one'or'two'of'the'ingredients?'I'know'I'sound'like'a'broken'record,'but'knowing'your'ingredients'and'their'purpose'in'the'formula'can'save'you'a'ton'of'money'and'energy,'and'it'might'mean'you'can'get'into'your'workshop'later'today'instead'of'waiting'until'the'mail'arrives.''

ELABORATE&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&WATER'PHASE'31.5%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'lemon'balm'(melissa)'hydrosol'1%'hyaluronic'acid'2%'hydrolyzed'protein''OIL'PHASE'5%'avocado'oil'5%'grapeseed'oil'15%'shea'butter'(or'butter'of'choice)'9%'Olivem'1000'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPM'or'IPP''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'


2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'1%'Optiphen'ND'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'0.5%'Vitamin'E''Remembering'that'every'ingredient'we'change'can'change'the'skin'feel,'also'keep'in'mind'that'you'haven't'tried'this'recipe'and'have'no'idea'what'the'skin'feel'might'be.'You'can'try'to'match'the'skin'feel'of'your'substitutions'for'the'intended'skin'feel'of'the'product','in'this'case,'it'will'be'a'slightly'greasy'product,'so'using'greasier'oils'might'make'it'too'greasy'for'a'lot'of'people','or'you'can'just'go'with'what'your'skin'likes'and'what'you'have'in'the'workshop.''Melissa'or'lemon'balm'hydrosol'is'supposed'to'be'good'for'oily'skin'with'anti,viral'and'anti,inflammatory'properties.'Rosemary,'honeysuckle,'or'orange'blossom'might'be'good'substitutions,'or'you'could'try'any'hydrosol'you'prefer.'It'will'add'some'astringency'to'the'product,'making'it'feel'drier.'The'aloe'vera'offers'a'ton'of'lovely'features'(click'here'for'the'full'post),'but'as'usual'you'can'leave'both'of'these'out'and'use'water'instead.''Hyaluronic'acid'is'a'humectant'and'a'very'good'one,'but'it's'easily'substituted'with'other,'easier'to'find'and'buy'humectants'like'glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA,'honeyquat,'and'others.'I'think'I'll'use'2.5%'sodium'PCA'in'this'recipe'and'remove'1.5%'from'the'water'amount.'(Glycerin'can'feel'sticky,'whereas'the'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA,'and'honeyquat'don't.)''You'know'I'm'a'fan'of'hydrolyzed'proteins,'but'you'can'always'substitute'one'for'another'or'leave'it'out'entirely'if'you'don't'have'them.''

Avocado'is'a'heavy'weight'astringent'oil'and'grapeseed'is'a'light'weight'astringent'oil'with'a'terribly'short'shelf'life.'Any'oils'matching'the'fatty'acid'profile'of'either'oil'will'do,'and'if'you'want'to'keep'the'astringent'feel,'make'sure'you'look'for'that'in'the'carrier'oil'description.'When'it'comes'to'the'butter,'shea'butter'is'a'greasy'feeling,'easily'meltable'butter.'Mango'butter'will'give'you'more'astringency,'and'cocoa'butter'will'thicken'your'product'quite'a'bit,'but'either'are'good'choices.'


'Note:'The'Vitamin'E'is'included'in'this'recipe'due'to'the'short'shelf'life'of'the'grapeseed'oil.'If'you'use'a'longer'lasting'oil,'you'can'leave'out'the'Vitamin'E.'Or'you'can'leave'it'in'for'the'skin'and'anti,oxidizing'benefits'it'offers.'It's'up'to'you.'''We'know'we'can'(for'the'most'part)'substitute'emulsifiers'for'other'emulsifiers,'so'feel'free'to'use'your'emulsifier'of'choice.'I'm'not'a'fan'of'the'Olivem'emulsifiers','I've'had'a'few'epic'lotion'fails'with'Olivem'800,'and'I'don't'feel'like'investing'in'another'emulsifier','so'I'll'fall'back'on'my'old'favourite,'Polawax.'You'can'use'Incroquat'BTMS,50'for'a'drier'feeling'lotion'or'use'your'favourite'emulsifier'at'the'recommended'amounts.''As'a'note,'I'say'"for'the'most'part"'because'some'emulsifiers'simply'won't'work'well'with'substitutions.'For'instance,'Sucragel'AOF'is'intended'for'oils'only;'using'esters'will'cause'epic'lotion'fail.'I'figure'if'you're'using'something'other'than'Incroquat'BTMS,50,'Polawax,'or'e,wax,'you'know'what'will'work'and'what'won't.'You'can'substitute'Polawax'for'most'other'emulsifiers,'but'sometimes'it's'hard'to'substitute'other'emulsifiers'for'Polawax.'''Cetyl'alcohol'can'be'substituted'with'stearic'acid,'which'will'give'you'a'thicker'consistency,'or'other'fatty'alcohols.''IPM'and'IPP'are'esters'intended'to'reduce'the'greasiness'of'the'product.'You'can'leave'it'out'and'add'2%'to'the'water'phase'if'you'don't'have'either.''Cyclomethicone'is'in'this'body'butter'to'increase'slip'and'glide'and'leave'a'silky'finish,'while'dimethicone'behaves'as'a'barrier'ingredient'and'emollient.'If'you'want'to'leave'them'out,'increase'the'oil'by'4%'or'increase'the'water'by'4%'and'reduce'the'emulsifier'by'1%.''I'don't'have'Optiphen'ND,'so'I'll'substitute'my'favourite'preservative,'Liquid'Germall'Plus,'at'0.5%'of'the'recipe.'I'should'increase'the'water'amount'by'0.5%'to'replace'the'missing'0.5%.'You'can'substitute'your'preservative'of'choice,'as'long'as'it'is'a'broad'spectrum'preservative'intended'for'water'containing'products.''So'there'you'have'it.'A'way'to'make'an'elaborate'body'butter'with'the'ingredients'you'have'in'your'workshop!''

Indre


SUBSTITUTIONS:,FORMULATING,ON,A,BUDGET,I've'been'thinking'a'lot'lately'about'the'cost'of'our'ingredients.'I'm'fortunate'I'live'within'driving'distance'of'three'suppliers,'have'next'day'service'from'another'one,'and'can'drive'to'Otion'whenever'I'feel'like'subjecting'myself'to'the'line,ups'at'the'border,'but'a'lot'of'us'have'to'buy'our'supplies'online,'and'the'shipping'costs'can'be'prohibitive,'especially'for'those'of'us'outside'of'America!'I'know'I'can'be'the'queen'of'enablers,'making'visions'of'exotic'oils,'different'surfactants,'and'strange'esters'dance'in'your'heads,'and'I'm'sure'you'curse'me'when'you'open'your'Visa'bill,'so'consider'this'post'my'way'of'not'having'you'hate'me'this'month!'Let's'take'at'look'at'substituting'ingredients'as'a'way'of'saving'some'money!''Let's'take'a'look'an'expensive'lotion'recipe,'then'how'we'can'tweak'it!''

EXPENSIVE&LOTION&RECIPE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'57%'water'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'3%'tamarind'seed'extract''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'pumpkin'seed'oil'5%'murumuru'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'5%'emulsifier'(BTMS'or'Polawax)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'(This'doesn't'total'100%'because'of'the'difference'in'preservatives!)''As%a%note,%this%isn't%a%lotion%I've%tried%making%because%I%don't%have%most%of%the%supplies%due%to%cost,%so%I%can't%comment%on%the%skin%feel!%%'Chamomile'hydrosol'has'a'ton'of'beneficial'properties'in'this'lotion,'but'the'cost'shipping'a'bottle'of'liquid'can'be'prohibitive.'Instead,'consider'adding'0.5%'extract'to'the'cool'down'phase'to'get'all'the'benefits'without'the'cost.'(In'all'honesty,'chamomile'isn't'that'expensive'and'it'works'out'to'just'about'the'same'from'my'local'supplier,'but'


if'you're'shipping'it,'the'costs'add'up'quickly!)'The'chamomile'hydrosol'will'cost'you'about'50¢'whereas'adding'0.5'grams'of'the'extract'works'out'to'about'5¢.''The%costs%I'm%using%come%from%the%normal%amount%I'd%buy%from%my%normal%suppliers%?%where%possible%?%and%don't%include%shipping%costs%as%I%generally%drive%to%them,%and%I%really%don't%feel%like%figuring%out%the%cost%of%mileage%in%my%estimates.%I%drive%an%Echo,%so%I%don't%visit%gas%stations%very%often%(except%for%the%energy%drinks%I've%needed%quite%a%bit%lately).%I%haven't%included%taxes%as%these%vary%from%location%to%location.%My%supplies%now%have%a%12%%HST%(harmonized%sales%tax)%on%them!%EEK!%%'Tamarind'seed'extract'is'a'humectant,'and'it'costs'something'like'$7.60'for'1'ounce'(30'ml).'Compare'this'to'glycerin'at'$7.95'for'1'litre'(1000'ml'or'33.6'ounces)'or'sodium'lactate'at'$10.50'for'1'litre,'and'you'can'see'how'expensive'adding'3%'to'a'lotion'can'be.'This'isn't'to'say'tamarind'seed'extract'isn't'awesome,'but'if'you're'looking'to'save'

some'money,'glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'honeyquat,'and'pretty'much'every'other'humectant'(except'for'hyaluronic'acid)'will'be'cheaper.'I'estimate'I'd'use'about'75¢'worth'of'tamarind'seed'extract'in'this'recipe,'versus'2.3¢'for'glycerin'or'2.7¢'for'sodium'lactate.''Pumpkin'seed'oil'is'very'similar'to'rice'bran'or'sesame'oil'in'its'fatty'acid'profile'but'costs'almost'triple'the'

price'of'rice'bran'oil.'Sometimes'you'll'find'there's'just'no'substitute'for'an'exotic'oil','for'instance,'evening'primrose'and'borage'have'that'wonderful'GLA,'pomegranate'oil'has'punicic'acid,'and'sea'buckthorn'has'palmitoleic'acid','but'you'can'usually'achieve'the'same'skin'feel.'You'd'spend'about'26¢'for'pumpkin'seed'oil'versus'11.5¢'for'rice'bran'oil.'''Murumuru'butter'(scroll'down'a'bit)'is'very'similar'to'coconut'oil'in'its'fatty'profile'and'melting'point,'so'this'would'be'a'natural'substitution.'Coconut'oil'is'one'of'the'most'inexpensive'thick'oils'we'can'find','$4.25'a'pound'vs.'murumuru'butter's'$23.95'a'pound','so'you're'saving'a'ton'by'using'it!'We'd'use'about'26.4¢'worth'of'murumuru'butter'in'this'recipe'versus'4.6¢'of'coconut'oil.'''

MODIFIED&EXPENSIVE&LOTION&RECIPE&&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'66.5%'water'


3%'sodium'lactate''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'15%'rice'bran'oil'5%'coconut'oil'3%'cetyl'alcohol'5%'emulsifier'(BTMS'or'Polawax)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative'(This'doesn't'total'100%'because'of'the'difference'in'preservatives!)''If'we'make'a'100'gram'batch'of'this'lotion,'you're'looking'at'spending'$1.77'for'the'original'recipe'and'23.8¢'for'the'modified'recipe'(not'including'the'emulsifier,'fatty'alcohol,'fragrance'or'essential'oil,'and'preservative'or'container.)'What'a'difference!''There'are'good'reasons'to'spend'extra'on'other'ingredients','I'm'having'a'love'affair'with'babassu'oil'right'now','and'there'are'things'we'find'in'some'ingredients'that'can't'be'found'in'others'that'make'them'worth'the'cost,'but'for'those'of'us'working'on'a'budget,'knowing'our'ingredients'and'how'to'substitute'them'can'save'us'a'ton'of'money!''

SUBSTITUTIONS:,FORMULATING,ON,A,BUDGET,–,CHOOSING,YOUR,OILS,Will'and'Patrick's'comments'and'quest'for'an'inexpensive'lotion'got'me'thinking'about'making'lotions'on'a'budget.'Yes,'I'have'a'workshop'filled'with'exotic'oils'and'more'spendy'ones,'and'I'realize'I'm'an'enabler'to'the'point'where'your'credit'card'companies'and'suppliers'love'me'and'your'partners,'spouses,'and'children'hate'me,'but'that's'because'I'want'to'experiment'and'share'my'findings'with'you,'my'wonderful'readers.''You'don't'need'to'have'a'full'complement'of'every'oil'your'supplier'carries'to'make'awesome'products!'I'd'suggest'having'a'very'light,'light,'and'medium'weight'oil'along'with'cocoa'butter'and'another'butter'in'your'workshop.'Your'choice'of'oils'will'depend'upon'the'application','are'you'making'lotions'and'balms'or'do'you'want'something'


good'for'hair'as'well?','and'your'preferred'skin'feel.'But'for'the'most'part,'having'four'oils'and'a'butter'will'get'you'started.''I'think'fractionated'coconut'oil'is'awesome'and'I'suggest'it'for'everyone.'It's'very'light,'it's'odour'free,'and'it'is'non,comedogenic,'so'it's'great'for'pretty'much'every'application.'Products'made'with'fractionated'coconut'oil'can'be'considered'"oil'free"'as'it's'really'more'of'an'ester'than'an'oil,'and'it's'not'very'greasy.'It's'not'terribly'expensive,'and'I'find'it'use'it'in'many'of'my'products.'Plus,'with'a'two'year'shelf'life,'you'

can'buy'a'litre'of'it'and'know'you'll'definitely'use'it'in'time!''For'the'light'oils,'I'always'suggest'soy'bean'oil'first.'It's'lightweight,'contains'a'ton'of'phytosterols'and'Vitamin'E,'very'moisturizing,'and'it'contains'a'lot'of'linoleic'acid,'which'is'great'for'speeding'up'skin's'barrier'repair'mechanisms.'It's'really'inexpensive','probably'the'least'expensive'of'all'the'oils','but'it'is'greasy'feeling.'

'If'you'want'a'light'oil'that's'less'greasy'feeling,'then'hazelnut'or'macadamia'nut'would'be'my'first'choices'(grapeseed'oil's'shelf'life'is'far'too'short'to'be'one'of'your'main'oils!).'Macadamia'nut'doesn't'have'that'lovely'linoleic'acid,'but'it'does'have'a'ton'of'oleic'acid,'which'is'great'for'moisturizing'your'skin,'and'it'has'quite'a'lot'of'phytosterols.'Hazelnut'oil'has'more'linoleic'acid,'more'Vitamin'E,'and'about'the'same'level'of'phytosterols'as'macadamia'nut'oil,'and'it's'about'the'same'price.''Sweet'almond'oil'and'apricot'kernel'oil'have'less'linoleic'acid'than'soybean'oil,'but'they'are'both'considered'light'and'drier'than'soybean'or'sunflower'oil.'If'I'had'to'choose'between'these'two,'I'd'go'with'apricot'kernel'oil'as'it'has'higher'levels'of'Vitamin'E'and'phytosterols.''For'a'medium'weight'oil,'I'like'rice'bran'or'sesame'seed'oils.'Both'are'well'balanced'in'linoleic'and'oleic'acids,'both'contain'a'ton'of'phytosterols'and'Vitamin'E,'and'both'are'inexpensive.'They'are'considered'to'be'more'greasy'than'something'like'avocado'oil'(which'is'considered'astringent'and'heavy)'but'on'par'with'olive'oil'(which'is'considered'medium,heavy).'All'of'these'oils'are'considered'inexpensive.''For'your'butters,'I'consider'cocoa'butter'a'staple'as'it's'inexpensive'and'is'approved'by'the'FDA'as'a'barrier'ingredient.'If'you'want'to'make'lotions'for'the'winter,'I'consider'this'ingredient'almost'essential.'Mango'butter'is'a'good'choice'if'you'like'drier'feeling'


products;'shea'butter'if'you'don't'mind'a'little'greasiness.'The'more'refined'the'butter,'the'less'likely'you'are'to'find'grains'in'your'products.'''So'what'about'coconut'oil?'Coconut'oil'is'a'great'choice'as'it's'fantastic'for'hair'care'products,'is'less'greasy'feeling'thanks'to'the'tannins,'and'is'really'inexpensive.'For'some'reason,'I'don't'use'it'a'lot,'I'think'it's'because'it's'a'drier'feeling'oil'and'doesn't'thicken'as'well'as'the'butters,'but'it's'a'great'choice'for'products,'especially'if'you're'budget'conscious!''As'for'exotic'oils,'well,'there's'no'saving'money'there!'All'but'a'few'cost'a'lot'more'than'our'carrier'oils,'and'it's'really'about'what'you'want'in'an'oil.''

SUBSTITUTIONS:,FORMULATING,ON,A,BUDGET,–,SUBSTITUTING,FOR,ESTERS,After'writing'this'post'on'substituting'for'less'expensive'ingredients,'I'got'to'thinking'about'esters.'You'know'I'love'my'esters,'but'if'you'can't'get'them'locally'or'find'them'more'expensive'than'our'oils,'you'can'use'fractionated'coconut'oil'in'place'of'most'of'oil'soluble'ones'in'lotions'and'anhydrous'creations.'You'will'find'the'product'is'a'little'more'greasy'feeling,'so'adding'2%'IPM'or'IPP'to'the'mix'will'reduce'the'greasiness.''Hazelnut'oil'is'a'great'substitute'for'a'lot'of'the'esters'because'it's'light'and'dry'feeling,'two'of'the'main'characteristics'of'the'esters!'Grapeseed'oil'would'also'be'considered'a'great'option,'but'its'short'shelf'life'(3'months'or'so)'makes'it'a'poor'choice'unless'you're'adding'a'ton'of'anti,oxidants'and'will'use'it'in'a'really'short'period'of'time.'You'aren't'going'to'get'some'of'the'benefits'of'an'ester'like'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'(for'instance,'the'fragrance'fixative'qualities)'by'substituting,'but'you'will'get'a'lighter,'drier'feeling'

product'by'using'fractionated'coconut,'hazelnut,'or'grapeseed'oil'in'place'of'esters.''Cromollient'SCE'(aka'Di,PPG,2'myeth,10,adipate)'is'a'fantastic'water'dispersible,'oil'soluble,'and'surfactant'soluble'ester,'but'it's'expensive'at'$6.85'for'an'ounce.'Depending'upon'the'application,'you'can'substitute'this'ester'for'a'number'of'different'solubilizers,'the'

main'ones'being'polysorbate'20'and'polysorbate'80.'

Indre

Indre


'If'you're'making'a'water'based'product','let's'say'a'body'spray','you'could'use'Cromollient'SCE'at'about'2%'to'disperse'your'fragrance'oils.'Or'you'could'use'a'1:1'ratio'of'fragrance'or'essential'oils'to'polysorbate'20.'If'you'wanted'to'add'an'oil'to'this'body'spray,'you'd'want'to'use'a'1:1'ratio'of'carrier'oils'to'polysorbate'80.'(This'is'a'general'rule','you'might'find'you'need'to'increase'it.)'The'polysorbates'do'tend'to'be'stickier'than'Cromollient'SCE,'so'you'don't'want'to'be'adding'a'ton'of'them,'but'they'will'work'well.''If'you're'including'Cromollient'SCE'to'increase'mildness'in'your'surfactant'based'products,'click'on'the'link'to'see'an'entire'post'on'the'topic.'If'you're'using'it'to'decrease'the'wet'and'dry'combing'forces'on'our'hair'in'a'shampoo,'consider'adding'one'of'our'cationic'polymers.'If'you'want'emolliency,'consider'adding'an'oil'with'polysorbate'80,'a'water'soluble'oil'(an'ester),'or'adding'something'like'Crothix'or'glycol'distearate.'If'you'want'to'increase'detangling,'consider'using'a'cationic'polymer'or'even'something'like'cetrimonium'chloride!''If'you'can't'find'Crodamol'STS'(PPG,3'benzyl'ether'myristate),'you'can'use'the'oils'mentioned'above'or'you'can'use'a'combination'of'cyclomethicone'and'dimethicone'in'your'hair'care'products'(I'like'to'use'them'at'2%'each).'It's'a'good'ingredient'to'include'in'surfactant'based'products,'so'refer'to'the'Cromollient'SCE'suggestions'above!''

AN,ASIDE:,COMPARING,DOLLAR,STORE,AND,FANCIER,LOTIONS,Will'and'Patrick'did'the'most'important'thing'you'can'do'in'learning'this'thing'we'call'cosmetic'chemistry','they'stayed'curious','and'both'went'out'to'the'dollar'store'to'buy'lotions.'Let's'take'a'look'at'what'each'of'them'found!'''Will,reports…,I'made'myself'curious'and'went'to'the'dollar'store.'I'bought'a'24.5'fluid'oz'bottle'(big)'for'$1.00.'It'compares'itself'to'Vaseline'Intensive'Care'Lotion.'(Snip'for'ingredient'list...)'The'lotion'itself'is'pretty'good'(a'little'greasy'to'me'but'you'knew'I'd'say'that,'I'suspect'the'petrolatum).'I'know'in'volume'stuff'is'cheap,'but'still,'this'was'a'buck'and'I'doubt'I'could'even'find'a'big'bottle'with'a'squirter'for'that'price!''Q:'Are'there'any'ingredients'that'you'recognize'in'there'that'you'would'consider'to'provide'a'big'bang'for'the'buck?'Any'lessons'to'be'learned'from'the'formulation?'


'Ingredient'list:''Water','the'solvent'or'water'part'of'the'product'Glycerin','a'humectant'Stearic'acid','thickener,'possible'emollient'Glycol'stearate','possible'emulsifier'(HLB'value'2.9)'Petroleum','emollient'(probably'mineral'oil)'Sunflower'seed'oil'or'soybean'oil','emollient'Lecithin','emulsifier,'emollient'Vitamin'E'acetate','Vitamin'E,'anti,oxidant'Vitamin'A'palmitate','Vitamin'A,'anti,oxidant'Urea','a'humectant'Collagen'amino'acids','like'our'hydrolyzed'proteins'Sodium'stearoyl'lactate','the'other'half'of'our'emulsification'system'(HLB'value'8.3)'Mineral'water','what?'this'low'down'the'list?'Sodium'PCA','a'humectant,'generally'used'at'3%'or'less'Potassium'lactate'Lactic'acid','possibly'for'pH'adjustment'Dimethicone','a'silicone,'emollient,'barrier'protection'Oat'kernel'flour','Thickener,'skin'feel'enhancer'(makes'things'feel'silky)'Keratin','another'protein'Glyceryl'stearate','emulsifier'combined'with'glycol'(HLB'3.8'or'5.8)'Cetyl'alcohol','thickener,'emollient'Magnesium'aluminum'silicate','clay'like'ingredient,'so'a'skin'feel'enhancer'Fragrance','makes'it'smell'nice'Carbomer','makes'a'gel'Stearamide'amp','viscosity'enhancer,'generally'sold'as'an'ingredient'combined'with'glycol'stearate'Triethanolamine','it'makes'the'carbomer'into'a'gel,'pH'adjuster'Corn'oil','emollient'Methylparaben','preservative'DMDM'hydantoin','preservative'Iodopropynyl'butylcarbamate','preservative,'found'in'liquid'Germall'Plus'Disodium'EDTA','chelator'BHT','anti,oxidant'Propylene'glycol','humectant'(probably'what'the'preservatives'are'dissolved'into)'


Titanium'dioxide','whitening'ingredient''This'quite'the'ingredient'list,'eh?'I'think'it'interesting'that'the'first'four'ingredients'we'encounter'are'water,'the'humectant,'a'thickener/emollient,'and'the'first'part'of'the'emulsification'system'with'our'emollients'at'the'fifth'and'sixth'locations.'As'I'm'fairly'sure'the'manufacturers'of'this'dollar'store'lotion'aren't'pouring'in'great'amounts'of'Vitamin'E'and'Vitamin'A,'I'think'we'start'the'1%'miscellaneous'category'fairly'soon'into'the'recipe,'possibly'after'lecithin.''Let's,take,a,look,at,Patrick's,find:,,Now'I'had'to'travel'to'my'dollar'store.'I'bought'a'34'oz'"Advanced'Therapy'for'Severely'Dry'Skin".'Lotsa'similarities,'especially'considering'this'is'a'"Vitamin'E"'lotion.'The'lotion'I'got'seems'maybe'like'there's'not'enough'moisturizers'in'it.'About'a'half'hour'after'putting'it'on'your'hands,'you'can't'tell.'''Ingredient'list:'Water,'Glycerin,'Stearic'Acid,'Glycol'Stearate,'Retinyl'Pammitate,'Tocopheryl'Acetate,'glyceryl'Stearate,'Cetyl'Alcohol,'Petrolatum,'Fragrance,'Dimethicone,'Magnesium'Aluminum'Silicate,'Isopropyl'Palmitate,'Triethanolamine,'Carbomer,'DMDM'Hydantoin,'methylparaben,'Disoidum'EDTA,'Iodopropynyl'Butylcarbamate,'Titatnium'Dioxide.''If'we'take'a'look'at'this'list,'we'see'water'and'glycerin'as'the'first'two'ingredients,'with'stearic'acid'(thickener'and'emollient),'glycol'stearate'(thickener,'emollient,'and'emulsifier),'retinyl'palmitate'(Vitamin'A),'tocopherol'acetate'(Vitamin'E),'glyceryl'stearate'(thickener,'emollient,'and'emulsifier),'cetyl'alcohol'(thickener'and'fatty'acid),'then'petroleum'(emollient),'with'our'1%'miscellaneous'category'starting'with'fragrance.'As'a'note,'I'can't'see'the'other'half'of'the'emulsifier'in'here','I'see'two'low'HLB'emulsifiers,'but'no'high'HLB'to'counter'it,'so'this'makes'me'wonder'if'this'is'the'entire'ingredient'list.''Let's'take'a'look'at'a'couple'of'drug'store'brands'to'contrast'and'compare!'Take'a'look'at'something'like'Jergen's'Original'Scent'hand'lotion...''Ingredients:'Aqua,'glycerin,'alcohol'denat,'cetearyl'alcohol,'cetyl'esters,'glyceryl'dilaurate,'cetyl'alcohol,'ceteareth,20,'lanolin'oil,'dimethicone,'parfum,'acrylates/C10,130'alkyl'acrylate'cross'polymer,'sodium'hydroxide,'methyl'paraben,'propylparaben,'DMDM'hydantoin.'


'We'have'pretty'similar'lists'here'with'the'water'and'glycerin'up'near'the'top,'and'most'of'the'emolliency'coming'from'the'various'fatty'alcohols'and'esters'and'some'gelling'ingredients'near'the'bottom.'(And'this'would'explain'why'I'don't'like'Jergen's!'Look'at'all'that'denatured'alcohol'in'it!)''Or'take'a'look'at'St'Ives'Advanced'Body'Moisturizer,'Oatmeal'&'Shea'Butter'(with'their'new'slogan'"no'unnecessary'chemicals",'which'makes'sense'because'things'that'are'unnecessary'are'by'definition'unnecessary,'which'means'they're'wasting'money!'But'I'digress...)''Ingredients:'Water,'Glycerin,'Caprylic/Capric'Triglyceride,'Stearic'Acid,'Mineral'Oil,'Cetyl'Alcohol,'Cetearyl'Alcohol,'Urea,'Dimethicone,'Phenoxyethanol,'Dicetyl'Phosphate,'Ceteth'10'Phosphate,'Cyclopentasiloxane,'Triethanolamine,'Carbomer,'Cetearyl'Glucoside,'Butyrospermum'Parkii,'Cyclohexasiloxane,'Fragrance,'Disodium'EDTA,'Ethylhexylglycerin,'Hexyl'Cinnamal,'Benzyl'Salicylate,'Limonene,'Yellow'10'Aluminum'Lake,'Red'40'Lake,'Blue'1,'Avena'Sativa'(Oat)'Meal'Extract''Again,'the'first'ingredients'are'water,'glycerin,'but'we'see'caprylic/capric'triglyceride'(fractionated'coconut'oil),'then'stearic'acid'(thickener),'and'mineral'oil.'(I'do'think'it'interesting'this'lotion'is'advertised'as'"oatmeal'&'shea'butter),'with'both'of'them'coming'into'the'1%'or'lower'part'of'the'ingredients'list!)''If'you'look'at'these'recipes,'and'other'drugstore'brands,'you'can'take'away'the'idea'of'our'ingredients'doing'double'duty'here'with'the'fatty'acids,'fatty'alcohols,'and'esters'behaving'as'emollients,'thickeners,'and'emulsifiers.'This'is'a'great'way'to'save'money'on'your'products'because'you'need'the'thickeners'and'emulsifiers'anyway,'so'why'not'use'them'as'your'main'emollients?'(I'realize'we'see'mineral'oil'and'other'oils'in'some,'but'they're'further'down'the'list'than'these'thickeners.'We'd'normally'use'these'things'the'other'way'around','3%'stearic'acid'or'cetyl'alcohol'to'10%'to'20%'oils'and'butters','so'we'can'get'our'emolliency'from'ouor'lovely'butters'and'oils!)''The'second'thing'to'think'about'is'the'use'of'glycerin.'We'would'normally'use'it'around'3%'to'5%'maximum,'and'they'have'it'as'the'second'ingredient'in'all'four'ingredient'lists!'Which'tells'me'a'lot'of'the'moisturizing'we're'getting'from'these'kinds'of'lotions'are'from'the'humectants,'not'the'emollients.'That's'not'a'bad'thing','humectants'are'lovely'for'our'skin'and'offer'long'lasting'moisturization'as'they'draw'water'from'the'


atmosphere'to'our'skin','but'I'd'rather'see'something'like'a'lovely'phytosterol,'polyphenol,'fatty'acid'containing'oil'or'butter'nearer'the'top'of'the'list.''If'we'made'a'lotion'with'cetyl'alcohol'($3.00'per'pound),'stearic'acid'($3.00'per'pound),'glycol'distearate'($5.95'per'pound),'and'mineral'oil'(not'sure'of'the'price,'but'I'know'it's'inexpensive)'as'our'emollients,'we're'going'to'make'a'far'cheaper'lotion'than'those'with'carrier'oils'and'butters.'If'we'make'our'own'emulsifiers,'we'll'probably'save'some'money'over'using'Polawax'and'BTMS.'If'we'use'the'thickeners'as'our'main'emollients'and'add'a'little'shea'butter'or'sunflower'oil'at'2%'to'3%,'then'we're'going'to'save'tons'of'money!'I'm'not'saying'these'will'be'lovely'lotions,'but'they'll'be'lotions!''


'

AN,ASIDE:,HOW,DO,WE,DETERMINE,THE,SHELF,LIVES,OF,OUR,PRODUCTS?,Will'commented:%I%use%liquid%germall%plus%in%my%own%concoctions%and%haven't%noticed%anything%go%bad,%but%I%typically%use%a%batch%of%lotion%within%a%month,%so%that's%probably%not%surprising.%On%the%other%hand,%I've%purchased%products%(gasp!)%and%haven't%used%them%within%a%couple%of%years,%and%they%"seem"%to%be%still%good.%I'm%sure%I'm%not%the%only%guy%that%does%this%sort%of%thing.%I%think%many%lotions%are%purposely%made%with%mineral%oil%and%such%so%that%rancidity%is%less%of%a%concern.%Anyhow,%knowing%something%may%sit%for%a%long%time,%here's%my%question%??%is%a%single%preservative%like%germall%plus%truly%sufficient%or%would%adding%in%a%second%preservative%really%be%best?%If%yes,%what%would%you%recommend?%Yes,%I%am%a%little%bit%of%a%germ?a?phobe.%'We're'all'germ,a,phobes'around'here'when'it'comes'to'lotion'making,'Will!'It's'the'safest'way'to'think!''To'answer'your'question,'a'good'broad'spectrum'preservative'will'last'the'life'of'your'lotion,'long'after'your'oils'have'gone'off.'Most'have'shelf'lives'of'two'years.'You'can'combine'preservatives'to'create'a'broader'spectrum'preservative','for'instance,'adding'something'like'one'of'the'organic'acids'(which'tend'to'be'good'fungal'killers)'with'Optiphen','or'you'could'do'something'like'add'liquid'Germall'Plus'at'0.25%'(range'0.1%'to'0.5%)'with'0.5%'Germaben'II'(range'0.5%'to'1.0%)'to'cover'all'your'bases'if'you'have'something'especially'hard'to'preserve.'I'use'liquid'Germall'Plus'at'the'maximum'0.5%,'and'I've'found'my'oils'will'go'rancid'long'before'I'have'any'preserving'problems,'so'it's'not'like'someone's'going'to'use'it!'(Believe'me,'if'you've'ever'smelled'rancid'products,'you'won't'accidentally'use'them!).''Will's'question'leads'me'to'another'thought...I'addressed'the'idea'of'figuring'out'the'shelf'life'of'your'products'in'this'post,'but'I'thought'it'was'a'good'idea'to're,visit'it'and'think'more'about'the'ingredients'we'could'use'to'extend'the'shelf'life'of'any'product.''Quick'summary:'The'way'to'figure'out'your'shelf'life'is'to'look'at'your'shortest'lived'ingredient'and'figure'that'll'be'the'shelf'life.'So'if'you're'using'grapeseed'oil,'you'll'have'a'three'month'product.'If'you're'using'olive'oil,'it'could'be'up'to'a'year.'Look'at'each'ingredient'and'figure'out'how'long'it'has'in'the'product.'I'mean'every'ingredient','glycerin,'extracts,'hydrosols,'oils,'butters,'and'so'on.'For'the'most'part,'the'main'concern'will'be'the'oils'and'butters'as'most'preservatives'have'a'two'year'life'span.'


Write'the'date'you'opened'the'oils'on'the'bottle'so'you'know'how'long'you'have'left.'If'you'bought'that'container'of'grapeseed'oil'two'months'ago'and'opened'it'then,'you've'only'got'one'month'left.'(And'this'is'the'reason'I'don't'use'grapeseed'oil!)''One'of'the'reasons'we'see'mineral'oil'and'petroleum'in'so'many'products'is'thanks'to'its'shelf'life.'Both'can'last'for'years'before'going'rancid,'whereas'most'of'our'oils'have'a'6'month'to'one'year'shelf'life.'And'shelf'life'is'another'reason'we'see'a'lot'of'our'natural'oils'coming'in'at'tiny'percentages'when'they'are'used'in'a'commercial'product.''When'we're'working'with'natural'oils'we'will'have'a'year'or'so'maximum'for'our'products.'We'can'add'all'kinds'of'things'to'extend'the'life'span,'but'we're'not'going'much'over'a'year.'For'butters,'most'have'a'two'year'life'span,'but'that's'irrelevant'if'you're'pairing'them'up'with'short'lived'oils.''Let’s'take'a'look'at'a'few'recipes'and'see'where'we'can'extend'the'shelf'life'a'little.'My'goal'is'always'to'make'a'product'that'will'last'6'months'to'a'year.'I'make'small'batches'and'use'them'quite'quickly,'so'for'me,'1'year'is'a'really'long'time.'If'you'can'get'your'product'to'last'a'year,'you're'doing'great.'But'let's'see'if'we'can'make'that'time'even'longer!'

POSSIBLE&DUPLICATION&OF&NEUTROGENA'S&BODY&OIL&33%'sesame'oil'33%'fractionated'coconut'oil'32%'IPM'1%'Vitamin'E'1%'fragrance'oil''Sesame'oil'has'a'shelf'life'of'about'a'year.'Fractionated'coconut'oil','about'2'years.'IPM','about'two'years.'Vitamin'E','about'1'to'2'years,'depending'upon'the'oxidation'of'the'product.'And'fragrance'oil',''about'a'year.'So'look'at'the'shortest'life'span'ingredient','sesame'oil'or'fragrance'oil','and'figure'that's'the'life'span'of'this'product.''How'could'we'make'the'life'span'longer?'We'could'use'a'different'fragrance'oil.'We'could'use'a'different'oil'(for'instance,'an'ester'that'would'last'longer'as'I'did'with'this'recipe,'and'you'could'leave'out'the'Vitamin'E'if'you're'not'using'natural'carrier'oils)'or'we'could'use'mineral'oil.''


A'note'on'essential'oils:'Whereas'most'fragrance'oils'have'a'shelf'life'of'a'year,'essential'oils'can'have'variable'shelf'lives.'Check'with'your'supplier!'''How'about'this'recipe?'It's'a'little'harder'given'that'we'have'some'water'soluble'ingredients'in'here!''SIX,INGREDIENT,LOTION,WITH,SHEA,,SOY,BEAN,,AND,SESAME,OIL,HEATED'WATER'PHASE,39.5%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Water'is'okay','no'real'shelf'life'there.'Aloe'vera','about'2'years.'Glycerin','about'2'years.'Shea'butter','about'2'years.'Soy'bean'oil','6'months'to'a'year.'Sesame'oil','6'months'to'a'year.'BTMS,50','2'years.'Liquid'Germall'Plus','about'2'years.'Fragrance'oil','about'a'year.'(I'didn't'include'Vitamin'E'in'this'recipe'as'it'was'a'6'ingredient'recipe!)'So'we'can'guess'that'we're'going'to'get'6'months'to'a'year'out'of'this'lotion.'(As'a'note,'all'my'ingredients'were'opened'on'the'day'I'made'it,'so'I'd'think'that'a'year'is'a'reasonable'length'of'time,'although'it's'such'a'small'bottle,'I'd'be'offended'if'my'husband'kept'it'that'long!)''Let's'look'at'another'recipe,'this'6'ingredient'hand'lotion'with'esters.'

HAND&LOTION&WITH&CETEARYL&ETHYLHEXANOATE&&&COCOA&BUTTER&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39%'water'20%'lavender'hydrosol''


HEATED'OIL'PHASE'20%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'6%'cocoa'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'7.5%'Polawax''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'3%'honeyquat'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil','Clementine'Cupcake'from'Brambleberry''Look'at'all'the'ingredients'and'figure'out'the'shelf'life'of'each'one.'(Honeyquat'is'1'year'from'the'date'of'manufacture.)'Now'combine'them'all'to'see'if'you'can'get'an'accurate'shelf'life'date.'I'll'be'back'in'a'minute'after'I'make'my'lovely'cup'of'marzipan'rooibos'tea.''What'do'you'think'is'the'shelf'life'of'this'lotion'and'why?'Which'ingredients'could'we'substitute'to'make'this'a'longer'lived'lotion?'If'you'answered'the'honeyquat'and'fragrance'oil,'you're'right!'The'rest'of'the'ingredients'have'at'least'a'two'year'shelf'life,'so'these'are'the'two'that'will'cause'problems.''So'what'could'we'use'instead?'We'could'use'glycerin'or'another'humectant'in'place'of'the'honeyquat'or'perhaps'another'polyquat?'Polyquat'7','1'year.'Polyquat'44','1'year.'Polyquat'4','1'year.'Polyquat'10','1'year.'Nope,'can't'use'another'polyquat,'so'it'looks'like'glycerin,'sodium'lactate,'sodium'PCA,'or'another'humectant'with'a'shelf'life'of'over'a'year'is'our'best'choice.''How'can'we'get'longer'shelf'lives?'Add'an'anti,oxidant'to'the'mix.'Use'a'chelating'ingredient.'Use'ingredients'with'longer'shelf'lives,'especially'oils.'Make'sure'you'keep'your'ingredients'in'a'cool,'dark'place'in'your'workshop.'Put'dates'on'your'bottles'when'you'open'them,'and'if'you'aren't'going'to'use'an'ingredient'for'a'while,'get'it'into'the'fridge'or'freezer'(most'ingredients'can'handle'freezing.'In'fact,'I'can't'think'of'one'that'doesn't...)'Buy'small'quantities'of'ingredients'you'don't'use'a'lot.'Yeah,'I'know,'you'save'money'by'buying'larger'amounts,'but'if'you're'throwing'them'away,'you're'not'saving'much.'And'put'"best'before"'labels'on'the'things'you'make!''


As'a'note,'I'always'keep'my'products'in'a'visible'place'in'my'bathroom'and'bedroom'because'there's'always'that'lotion'that'ends'up'in'the'back'of'the'bathroom'cupboard'that'I'don't'remember'and'they'don't'smell'all'that'great'when'I'open'them'again!'''As'I'mentioned'above,'1'year'is'a'great'shelf'life'and'we'shouldn't'compromise'our'products'to'get'longer'shelf'lives.'If'you'make'an'amazing'facial'serum'with'grapeseed'oil,'get'some'anti,oxidants'in'there,'put'a'"use'within'3'months'of'being'given'this'great'product"'label'on'it,'and'enjoy'it.'If'you'make'a'fantastic'hair'conditioner'with'unrefined'hempseed'oil,'get'some'anti,oxidants'in'it,'make'the'label,'and'enjoy'the'feeling'of'having'great'hair.'We'don't'have'to'strive'for'really'long'shelf'lives,'but'it's'nice'to'know'you'can'if'you'wish!'''


INTRODUCTION,TO,THE,HLB,SYSTEM,When'we're'working'with'emulsification'systems'like'e,wax'or'BTMS,'we'don't'really'think'of'how'it's'going'to'emulsify'our'product.'We'just'add'the'required'amount'and'poof!','we'have'lotion.'If'we'want'to'create'an'emulsification'system'of'our'own,'we'need'to'turn'to'the'HLB'system'for'guidance!''

A&QUICK&ASIDE&ON&EMULSIFICATION&We'need'three'things'to'emulsify'our'lotion'properly.'

Chemical'emulsification','choosing'a'good'emulsifier'will'save'you'heartache'in'the'end.'If'you'want'to'learn'more'about'emulsifiers,'the'HLB'(hydrophilic,lipophilic'balance'chart)'is'a'great'place'to'start,'but'I'generally'choose'emulsifying'wax'as'it'is'a'good'all'around'emulsifier'for'basic'lotions.'(Polawax,'emulsifying'wax,'and'BTMS,50'are'all,around'emulsification'systems,'so'they're'easy'to'use).'

Heat'emulsification','we'have'to'heat'our'ingredients'up'to'a'place'where'they'are'happy'to'emulsify.'

Mechanical'emulsification','we'have'to'blend'our'ingredients'together'using'a'hand'or'stand'mixer'or'stick'blender.'

What'we’ve'made'throughout'this'e,book'and'what'you’re'likely'to'make'throughout'your'lotion'making'career'are'oil'in'water'lotions,'meaning'the'droplets'of'oil'are'suspended'in'a'water'base,'so'there'is'far'more'water'in'the'recipe'than'oils.'(Water'in'oil'recipes'are'thicker,'like'cold'cream,'and'require'different'emulsifiers'to'work'well.)''

THEORY&BEHIND&THE&HLB&SYSTEM&The'hydrophilic,lipophilic'balance'system'(or'HLB)'was'created'by'William'Griffin'the'1940s'as'a'way'of'figuring'out'which'emulsifier'would'work'best'with'the'oil'phase'of'an'emulsified'product.'All'emulsifiers'have'a'hydrophilic'head'(water'loving)'that'is'generally'composed'of'a'water'soluble'functional'group'and'a'lipophilic'tail'(oil'loving)'generally'composed'of'a'fatty'acid'or'fatty'alcohol.''The'theory'behind'HLB'is'that'emulsifiers'showing'greater'solubility'in'water'would'be'better'for'oil'in'water'emulsifications;'emulsifiers'showing'great'solubility'in'oil'would'be'better'for'water'in'oil'emulsifications.'The'lower'HLB'valued'emulsifiers'are'better'in'water'in'oil'as'they'are'more'lipophilic;'the'higher'valued'HLB'emulsifiers'are'more'hydrophilic.''


The'solubility'of'a'molecule'means'it'will'dissolve'in'the'solvent'and'becomes'part'of'a'homogeneous'solution.'Solubility'generally'increases'with'temperature,'hence'the'reason'for'heating'and'holding'our'lotion'ingredients.'And'considering'most'emulsifiers'we'use'are'in'a'pellet'or'flake'form,'heating'is'the'only'way'to'incorporate'it'into'a'liquid'environment.''The'HLB'value'of'an'emulsifier'is'determined'by'the'hydrophilic'portion'of'the'surfactant.'The'equation'is'as'follows','HLB'='%'hydrophilic'portion'by'weight'of'the'molecule'divided'by'5.'(We'don't'need'to'know'this'to'use'the'HLB'system,'but'I'm'the'kind'of'girl'who'has'to'know'everything,'so'I'thought'I'd'include'it'for'like'minded'people!)'So'the'higher'the'number,'the'higher'the'portion'of'the'molecule'is'hydrophilic,'and'the'more'water'soluble'it'will'be.'The'lower'the'number,'the'less'water'soluble'and'more'fat'soluble'it'will'be.'''

Take'a'look'at'this'polysorbate'80'molecule'(HLB'15).'Based'on'this'number,'we'should'expect'this'is'to'be'an'emulsifier'that'would'be'better'suited'for'oil'in'water'emulsifications'because'it'has'such'a'high'HLB'

number.'(And'from'experience,'we'know'polysorbate'80'is'well'suited'for'adding'oil'to'watery'things'like'toners'or'facial'cleansers','not'a'lot'of'oil,'but'enough'that'we'want'it'not'to'float'on'top'of'the'product!)'We'don't'see'any'fatty'acids'or'alcohols'on'this'chain,'so'it's'going'to'be'a'hydrophilic'emulsifier'with'a'high'HLB'value.''Other'high'HLB'emulsifiers'include'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2),'Oleth,10'(HLB'12.4),'and'polysorbate'20'(HLB'16.7).''Glycol'stearate'has'an'HLB'of'2.9,'which'means'it'is'a'lipophilic'emulsifier'that'would'be'better'suited'for'water'in'oil'emulsifications'due'to'its'low'HLB'number.'Sorbitan'stearate'(HLB'4.7),'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1.0),'and'glyceryl'stearate'(HLB'5.8)'are'all'examples'of'low'HLB'emulsifiers.''

HOW&DO&WE&USE&THE&HLB&SYSTEM&TO&CREATE&AN&EMULSIFIER?&So'how'do'we'use'the'HLB'system'to'create'an'emulsifier?'We'work'out'the'math'(I'heard'some'of'you'shriek'there,'but'if'you'can'remember'your'elementary'school'math'for'figuring'out'percentages,'you'll'be'fine!)'by'figuring'out'the'required'HLB'of'our'oil'


phase'and'the'HLB'values'of'our'emulsifiers'to'get'a'number'that'matches.'(That's'for'tomorrow's'post!)''You'will'never'use'one'emulsifier'alone'for'a'lotion','you'might'for'bubble'baths'and'body'washes'(glycol'distearate'to'pearlize'them),'perfumes'or'toners'(polysorbate'20'or'80'to'disperse'the'oils),'and'so'on,'but'for'a'lotion,'we'require'a'complete'emulsification'system!''We'want'to'combine'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'(the'lipophilic'or'the'one'that'loves'oil'more)'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier'(the'hydrolphilic'or'the'one'that'loves'water'more)'at'a'level'that'will'match'the'HLB'of'our'oil'phase.'And'we'll'want'to'add'enough'of'these'emulsifiers'to'ensure'we'get'proper,'stable'emulsification'of'our'product.'(I've'seen'it'suggested'that'you'start'at'2%'and'at'4%'emulsifiers'in'your'lotions.'I'm'going'to'suggest'4%'for'now'to'ensure'we'have'enough'in'the'lotion'to'be'successful.)''Please'note,'there'is'no'hard'and'fast'rule'for'how'much'HLB'emulsifier'to'start'off'with'in'a'recipe.'LabRat'used'to'suggest'2%'but'I'like'to'use'4%'or'5%.'This'is'not'like'Polawax','there'is'no'suggested'rat,'it's'all'about'trial'and'error.'You'will'see'different'amounts'of'emulsifier'used'in'different'recipes.'If'you're'going'to'use'the'HLB'system,'be'prepared'to'work'on'the'calculations'for'each'recipe'and'the'possibility'that'you'haven't'used'enough'emulsifier.'This'is'why'I'suggest'4%'or'5%.''

A,SIDE,NOTE:,WHERE,DO,I,GET,THE,INFORMATION,ON,HLB,VALUES?,I'will'direct'you'first'to'this'amazing'PDF'written'by'LabRat'(found'at'Lotioncrafter)','http://www.lotioncrafter.com/pdf/Emulsions_&_HLB_System.pdf'Download'this.'Print'this.'Love'this.''This'is'a'great'listing'of'the'HLB'values'of'our'emulsifiers'and'the'required'HLB'values'for'the'oil'phase'ingredients.''When'you'buy'a'new'ingredient'–'potential'emulsifier'or'oil'phase'ingredient','ask'your'supplier'for'information'on'the'HLB'value'if'you'don’t'see'it'in'the'list!'''

HLB,SYSTEM:,A,DEMONSTRATION,(part,1),How'do'we'use'the'HLB'system'to'create'an'emulsifier?'Make'sure'you’ve'downloaded'the'HLB'PDF'I'suggest'so'you'can'play'along!''


The&steps&to&finding&out&the&HLB&value&of&your&ingredients.&1.'Which'ingredients'have'an'HLB'value?'2.'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'3.'Divide'this'by'the'total'oil'phase'to'get'a'percentage.'4.'Multiply'the'percentage'by'the'HLB'value.'Add'them'together'to'get'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'

The&steps&to&finding&out&the&HLB&value&of&your&emulsifiers.&1.'Find'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier.'2.'Work'on'the'percentages'to'find'a'total'that'is'very'close'to'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'3.'Rejoice!''So'let's'take'a'recipe'at'random'and'figure'out'the'required'HLB'values'of'the'oil'phase'ingredients'and'the'HLB'values'of'the'emulsifiers'and'create'our'own'emulsification'system!'How'about'Lush's'Afterlife'Moisturizer?''

STARTING&OUT&RECIPE&FOR&DUPLICATING&LUSH'S&AFTERLIFE&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'55.5%'water'3%'glycerin'2%'honey''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'7.5%'emulsifier'3%'stearic'acid'1%'cetearyl'alcohol'2%'coconut'oil'9%'olive'oil'5%'evening'primrose'oil'5%'avocado'oil'5%'wheat'germ'oil''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'preservative'(I'm'using'liquid'Germall'Plus)'0.5%'powdered'mango'extract'


1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'(optional'in'a'facial'product)''1.,Which,ingredients,have,an,HLB,value?,Look'for'anything'oil'soluble.'In'this'case,'all'of'the'oil'soluble'ingredients'are'found'in'the'oil'phase.'(Sometimes'we'have'to'look'to'the'cool'down'phase'for'things'like'silicones,'which'also'have'an'HLB'value.)'Most'of'our'carrier'oils'have'an'HLB'of'7'and'most'of'our'butters'have'an'HLB'of'8.'

stearic'acid','HLB'value'15' cetearyl'alcohol','HLB'value'15.5' coconut'oil','HLB'value'8' olive'oil','HLB'value'7' evening'primrose'oil','HLB'value'7' avocado'oil','HLB'value'7' wheat'germ'oil','HLB'value'7'

'2.,How,much,of,each,oil,soluble,ingredient,is,in,the,recipe?,3%'stearic'acid'1%'cetearyl'alcohol'2%'coconut'oil'9%'olive'oil'5%'evening'primrose'oil'5%'avocado'oil'5%'wheat'germ'oil''Total'up'these'numbers'and'you'll'find'our'total'oil'phase'is'30%.'(We'don't'count'the'emulsifier'from'the'original'recipe'as'we're'trying'to'replace'that!)''3.,Divide,by,the,total,oil,phase,to,see,how,much,each,ingredient,makes,up,in,the,oil,phase.,,Our'oil'phase'here'is'30%'of'the'total'recipe,'so'we'll'be'dividing'each'ingredient'by'30'to'figure'out'how'much'of'each'oil'is'in'this'oil'phase.''3%'stearic'acid','3/30'='0.1'or'10%'of'the'oil'phase'1%'cetearyl'alcohol','1/30'='0.0333'or'3.3%'of'the'oil'phase'2%'coconut'oil','2/30'='0.0666'or'6.6%'of'the'oil'phase'9%'olive'oil','9/30'='0.3'or'30%'of'the'oil'phase'5%'evening'primrose'oil','5/30'='0.1666'or'16.67%'of'the'oil'phase'(round'to'16.7%)'


5%'avocado'oil','5/30'='0.166'or'16.67%'of'the'oil'phase'(round'to'16.7%)'5%'wheat'germ'oil','5/30'='0.166'or'16.67%'of'the'oil'phase'(round'to'16.7%)''Make'sure'the'total'of'the'percentages'equals'100%.'Yep,'with'the'rounding'it'does!''Note:%Remember%that%a%percentage%also%has%a%decimal%value.%For%instance,%30.5%%is%equal%to%0.305%(move%the%decimal%two%spaces%to%the%right%to%get%the%percentage!)%These%are%the%values%you%want%to%work%with%in%the%rest%of%the%phases.%'4.,Multiply,the,numbers,from,step,3,with,the,HLB,values,you,found,in,step,1.,,Stearic'acid','HLB'value:'15.'Makes'up'0.1'of'the'oil'phase.'0.1'x'15'='1.5'Cetearyl'alcohol','HLB'value:'15.5.'Makes'up'0.033'of'the'oil'phase.'0.033'x'15.5'='0.5115'Coconut'oil','HLB'value:'8.'Makes'up'0.066'of'the'oil'phase.'0.066'x'8'='0.528'Olive'oil'','HLB'value:'7.'Makes'up'0.3'of'the'oil'phase.'0.3'x'7'='2.1'Evening'primrose','HLB'value:'7.'Makes'up'0.167'of'the'oil'phase.'0.167'x'7'='1.169'Avocado'oil','HLB'value:'7.'Makes'up'0.167'of'the'oil'phase.'0.167'x'7'='1.169'Wheat'germ'oil','HLB'value:'7.'Makes'up'0.167'of'the'oil'phase.'0.167'x'7'='1.169''Add'these'numbers'together'we'get'a'required'HLB'of'8.1465'(which'you'can'round'up'to'8.15).''

CHOOSE&YOUR&EMULSIFIERS&So'now'we'have'to'choose'our'emulsifiers.'Choose'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier'from'the'list.'''In'my'workshop,'I'currently'have'the'following'emulsifiers:'glycol'distearate','HLB'1'glyceryl'stearate','HLB'2.9'laureth,4','HLB'9.7'oleth'10','HLB'12.4'ceteareth,20','HLB'15.2''I'think'I'll'try'two'different'combinations','glycol'distearate'and'ceteareth,20'and'glyceryl'stearate'and'oleth'10.''


We're'going'to'multiply'the'percentage'of'emulsifier'needed'by'the'HLB'of'the'emulsifier'to'figure'out'the'number.'We'will'have'to'adjust'it'to'get'to'the'required'HLB'of'8.15.''

GLYCOL&DISTEARATE&AND&CETEARETH[20&This'is'a'fairly'common'combination'and'easy'to'work'with'because'the'HLB'of'glycol'distearate'is'1,'making'for'easier'math.'I'm'going'to'use'4%'of'this'emulsifier'in'the'lotion.''I've'chosen'4%'because'I'know'this'is'what'works'for'me.'LabRat'suggested'2%,'but'I'find'there's'too'much'room'for'error'with'my'scales'that'only'go'to'0.1'gram'weights!'You'can'go'higher'or'lower'if'you'want,'but'I'm'working'with'a'total'emulsifier'amount'of'4%.''My'required'HLB'for'this'lotion'is'8.15.''If'I'use'50%'glycol'distearate'(0.5'x'1'='0.5)'and'50%'ceteareth,20'(0.5'x'15.2'='7.6),'I'll'have'an'emulsifier'with'an'HLB'value'of'8.1.'That'really'is'close'enough.''So'I'need'50%'glycol'distearate'and'50%'ceteareth,20'in'my'4%'emulsifier.'(Normally'I'd'multiply'0.5'x'4'='2'to'figure'out'how'much'emulsifier,'but'it's'really'very'simple'here!)'So'I'll'use'2%'glycol'distearate'and'2%'ceteareth,20.''Wow,'that'was'easy.'And'it'was'a'fluke!'I'have'been'doing'the'math'as'I'go'along'in'this'post,'so'I'didn't'choose'this'recipe'for'ease'of'use!'''

GLYCERYL&STEARATE&AND&OLETH[10&This'one's'going'to'be'slightly'harder'because'glyceryl'stearate'has'an'HLB'value'of'2.9'and'oleth,10'has'an'HLB'value'of'12.4.''My'required'HLB'for'this'lotion'is'8.15.''I'always'start'with'50%'of'each'emulsifier.'Glyceryl'stearate','0.5'x'2.9'='1.45'Oleth,10','0.5'x'12.4'='6.2'Total'is'7.45,'which'isn't'high'enough.'I'need'more'oleth,10'and'less'glyceryl'stearate.'


'Let's'try'40%'to'60%.'Glyceryl'stearate','0.4'x'2.9'=1.74'Oleth,10','0.6'x'12.4'='7.44'Total'is'8.18,'which'is'almost'dead'on'the'amount'we'need.''So'if'we'use'40%'glyceryl'stearate'and'60%'oleth,10'as'our'emulsifiers,'we'll'get'the'right'amount!''If'I'm'using'a'total'of'4%'emulsifier,'I'll'need'1.6%'glyceryl'stearate'(0.4'x'4)'and'2.4%'oleth,10'(0.6'x'4)'as'my'emulsification'in'this'product.''

An%aside:%When%I'm%figuring%out%the%emulsifiers,%I%make%up%a%messy%little%chart%like%this%one%to%the%left.%I%start%off%at%50%%for%each%emulsifier,%then%go%to%51%%and%49%%or%60%%and%40%,%depending%upon%what%I%need,%until%I%get%the%amount%I%want.%If%this%doesn't%work%for%you,%use%the%formula%in%the%next%section%or%use%the%Excel%spreadsheet.%%

'So'let's'take'a'look'at'the'final'recipe.''STARTING&OUT&RECIPE&FOR&DUPLICATING&LUSH'S&AFTERLIFE&WITH&HLB&EMULSIFIERS&HEATED&WATER&PHASE&59%'water'3%'glycerin'2%'honey''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'4%'emulsifier'(2%'glycol'distearate'and'2%'ceteareth,20'or'1.6%'glycol'distearate'and'2.4%'oleth,10)'3%'stearic'acid'1%'cetearyl'alcohol'2%'coconut'oil'9%'olive'oil'5%'evening'primrose'oil'5%'avocado'oil'


5%'wheat'germ'oil''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'preservative'(I'm'using'liquid'Germall'Plus)'0.5%'powdered'mango'extract'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'(optional'in'a'facial'product)''Notice'I'increased'the'water'phase'to'make'up'for'the'reduction'of'3.5%'emulsifier'from'the'original'recipe.'(If'you'aren't'sure'why'I'did'this,'re,read'this'section'on'increasing'your'water'phase'when'you'increase'your'oil'phase'found.)''Let’s'try'it'with'the'basic'lotion'recipe'and'see'how'you'fare!'''

HLB,SYSTEM:,A,DEMONSTRATION,WITH,OUR,BASIC,LOTION,RECIPE,BASIC,LOTION,RECIPE,70%'water'15%'oil'(let's'go'with'7%'olive'oil,'8%'rice'bran'oil)'5%'shea'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'4%'emulsifier','to'be'determined!'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''This'is'a'pretty'basic'lotion,'so'it's'a'good'starting'point'for'our'HLB'calculations.''WARNING:'Math'ahead!'I'know'some'people'aren't'fans'of'math'and'don't'think'themselves'good'at'it,'but'don't'be'alarmed.'If'you'follow'the'steps'and'remember'your'elementary'school'math'for'finding'percentages,'it's'actually'quite'simple.''There'are'two'phases'of'HLB'math','finding'out'the'HLB'value'of'your'ingredients,'then'finding'the'HLB'value'of'your'chosen'emulsifiers.''The,steps,to,finding,out,the,HLB,value,of,your,ingredients.,1.'Which'ingredients'have'an'HLB'value?'2.'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'3.'Multiply'this'by'the'total'oil'phase'to'get'a'percentage.'


4.'Multiply'the'percentage'by'the'HLB'value.'Add'them'together'to'get'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.''The,steps,to,finding,out,the,HLB,value,of,your,emulsifiers.,1.'Find'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier.'2.'Work'on'the'percentages'to'find'a'total'that'is'very'close'to'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'3.'Rejoice!''STEP,1:'Figure'out'which'ingredients'have'an'HLB'value.'This'is'basically'your'oil'phase.'Anything'that'wouldn't'go'in'the'water'phase'probably'has'an'HLB'value.'Our'oil'phase'(which'makes'up'23%'of'our'recipe)'contains'oil,'butter,'and'cetyl'alcohol.'Each'of'these'has'an'HLB'value.''Olive'oil','HLB'value:'7'Rice'bran'oil','HLB'value:'7'Shea'butter','HLB'value:'8'Cetyl'alcohol','HLB'value:'15.5''STEP,2:'Percentage'of'recipe'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'Let's'call'this'number'our'"recipe'%"'number.''Olive'oil','7%'Rice'bran'oil','8%'Shea'butter','5%'Cetyl'alcohol'3%''Total:'23%'of'the'recipe'is'the'oil'phase.'(Let's'call'this'number'our'"total'oil'phase'%")''STEP,3:'Multiply'the'amount'in'the'recipe'by'the'total'oil'phase.'We'know'our'oil'phase'is'equal'to'23%'of'the'recipe.'So'we'need'to'figure'out'the'percentage'of'each'ingredient'in'the'oil'phase.''recipe'%'total'oil'phase'%''


Divide'the'%'in'oil'phase'by'the'oil'phase'%.''Olive'oil','30.5%'of'the'oil'phase'(7'divided'by'23)','0.305'Rice'bran','34.8%'of'the'oil'phase'(8'divided'by'23)','0.348'Shea'butter','21.7%'of'the'oil'phase'(5'divided'by'23)','0.217'Cetyl'alcohol','13.0%'of'the'oil'phase.'(3'divided'by'23)','0.130''This'should'total'100%.'Yep,'it'checks'out.''Note:%Remember%that%a%percentage%also%has%a%decimal%value.%For%instance,%30.5%%is%equal%to%0.305%(move%the%decimal%two%spaces%to%the%right%to%get%the%percentage!)%These%are%the%values%you%want%to%work%with%in%the%rest%of%the%phases.%'STEP,4:'Multiply'the'numbers'from'step'3'by'the'HLB'value.''Olive'oil'makes'up'30.5%'of'the'oil'phase.'It'has'an'HLB'value'of'7.'0.305'x'7'='2.135''Rice'bran'oil'makes'up'34.8%'of'the'oil'phase.'It'has'an'HLB'value'of'7.'0.348'x'7'='2.436''Shea'butter'makes'up'21.7%'of'the'oil'phase.'It'has'an'HLB'value'of'8.'0.217'x'8'='1.736''Cetyl'alcohol'makes'up'13.0%'of'the'oil'phase.'It'has'an'HLB'value'of'15.5.'0.130'x'15.5'='2.015''Add'these'numbers'together'and'you'get'8.322'(or'8.3)'as'the'HLB'of'your'oil'phase.''CHOOSE,YOUR,EMULSIFIER,To'make'a'good'emulsifying'system'I'need'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier'working'together.'I'have'chosen'glycol'distearate'(also'known'as'EZ'Pearl)'with'an'HLB'value'of'1'and'ceteareth,20'with'an'HLB'value'of'15.2.'(This'is'a'standard'combination'for'emulsifiers'and'feels'very'nice).'I'm'going'to'use'4%'as'my'starting'number'for'amount'of'emulsifier'because'we'want'to'make'sure'we'have'enough'emulsifier!'(I'know'LabRat'recommended'2%,'but'he'was'a'gifted'cosmetic'chemist'who'had'years'of'experience'under'his'belt!'If'you'want'to'go'with'2%,'that's'just'fine,'but'I'want'to'make'sure'there's'enough'emulsifier'for'this'lotion!)''


We'could'have'chosen'a'number'of'different'combinations;'I've'chosen'this'one'as'LabRat'posted'regularly'about'this'being'a'good'combination'and'because'these'are'ingredients'easily'available'to'the'home'crafter.''Now'we'need'to'figure'out'how'to'combine'these.''If'we'use'50%'glycol'distearate'(1)'and'50%'ceteareth,20'(15.2)'we're'going'to'get'an'HLB'of'8.1.''The'math...'Glycol'distearate:'0.50'x'1'='0.5'Ceteareth,20:'0.5'x'15.2'='7.6'HLB'for'this'emulsification'system:'8.1''Although'we'could'get'closer'to'our'HLB'of'8.322'by'mixing'48%'glycol'distearate'(0.48)'and'52%'ceteareth,20'(7.904)'for'a'total'of'8.38,'this'is'going'to'be'a'huge'pain'in'the'bum.'We're'working'with'4%,'so'you'd'have'to'have'2.1%'ceteareth,20'and'1.9%'glycol'distearate.'It's'easier'to'just'do'50,50'right'now.'Given'most'of'the'HLB'value'of'emulsifiers'are'listed'as'+'or','1,'our'ceteareth,20'could'have'a'value'of'14.2'to'16.2,'so'we're'not'being'foolish'by'using'0.1'less'of'one'emulsifier'and'0.1'more'of'another.)''So'we'have'determined'that'a'50/50'mix'of'glycol'distearate'and'ceteareth,20'will'make'up'an'HLB'value'suitable'for'our'emulsifier.'We're'going'to'start'at'4%,'which'means'we'll'be'using'2%'glycol'distearate'and'2%'ceteareth,20'in'this'lotion.''We'multiply'the'amount'of'ceteareth,20'we'll'need'by'4%'(our'starting'point)'to'figure'out'how'much'to'use.'Put'your'percentages'into'decimals','50%'ceteareth,20'is'0.50'and'4%'of'the'emulsifier'is'0.04.''0.50'ceteareth,20'x'0.04'='0.02'or'2%'ceteareth,20.'0.50'glycol'stearate'x'0.04'='0.02'or'2%'glycol'distearate''Yeah,'I'know'this'one'is'easy','just'divide'4%'in'half'to'get'2%.'But'they'aren't'always'this'easy.'I'fluked'out'here!''So'here's'the'recipe'with'the'emulsification'system'included...'


BASIC&LOTION&RECIPE&MODIFIED&USING&THE&HLB&SYSTEM&70%'water'15%'oil'(let's'go'with'7%'olive'oil,'8%'rice'bran'oil)'5%'shea'butter'3%'cetyl'alcohol'4%'emulsifier','2%'glycol'distearate,'2%'ceteareth,20'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'0.5%'to'1%'preservative''There's'the'recipe.'Want'to'get'more'complicated?'Keep'reading!'''And%yes,%I%should%be%including%the%fragrance%and/or%essential%oil%in%the%oil%phase%with%an%HLB%value%but%I%didn't%because%I%really%didn't%feel%like%looking%up%those%HLB%values!%I%think%I've%done%enough%work%today!%'

HLB,SYSTEM:,A,DEMONSTRATION,WITH,A,MORE,COMPLICATED,LOTION,RECIPE,Let's'choose'a'few'more'lotion'recipes'and'see'how'we'can'use'the'HLB'system'to'make'our'own'emulsifiers!'Let's'go'with'an'easy'one'first','the'six'ingredient'lotion'for'my'husband's'itchy'skin!''

SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'39.5%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'


1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Remember'the'steps'to'finding'out'the'HLB'value'of'your'ingredients.'1.'Which'ingredients'have'an'HLB'value?'2.'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'3.'Divide'this'by'the'total'oil'phase'to'get'a'percentage.'4.'Multiply'the'percentage'by'the'HLB'value.'Add'them'together'to'get'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.''1.'Which'ingredients'in'this'lotion'have'an'HLB'value?'We'have'three'ingredients'with'an'HLB'value','the'shea'butter'(8),'soy'bean'oil'(7),'and'sesame'oil'(7).''2.'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'10%'shea'butter'10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'Total'oil'phase'='30%'Remember'to'leave'out'the'original'emulsifier'as'we'are'trying'to'replace'that!''3.'Divide'this'by'the'total'oil'phase'to'get'a'percentage.''My'total'oil'phase'is'30%.'shea'butter','10/30'='0.333'soy'bean'oil','10/30'='0.333'sesame'oil','10/30'='0.333''All'right,'I'know'this'actually'equals'99.99999%'so'let's'round'one'of'the'oils'up'to'0.34'and'leave'the'rest'at'0.33'and'be'done'with'it!'I'll'round'the'sesame'oil'to'0.34'so'we'have...'shea'butter'='0.33'soy'bean'oil'='0.33'sesame'oil'='0.34''4.'Multiply'the'percentage'by'the'HLB'value.'Add'them'together'to'get'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'shea'butter','0.33'x'8'='2.64'soy'bean'oil','0.33'x'7'='2.31'


sesame'oil','0.34'x'7'='2.38'Total'is'7.33.'So'our'required'HLB'for'this'lotion'is'7.33.''The'steps'to'finding'out'the'HLB'value'of'your'emulsifiers.'1.'Find'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier.'2.'Work'on'the'percentages'to'find'a'total'that'is'very'close'to'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'3.'Rejoice!''1.'Find'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier.''Let's'go'with'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(15.2)'for'our'emulsifiers.''2.'Work'on'the'percentages'to'find'a'total'that'is'very'close'to'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.''50%'glycol'distearate'='1'and'50%'ceteareth,20'='7.6.'Total'='8.1.'Too'high!'40%'glycol'distearate'='0.4'and'60%'ceteareth,20'='9.12.'Total'='9.52.'Too'high!'60%'glycol'distearate'='0.6'and'40%'ceteareth,20'='6.08.'Total'='6.68.'Too'low!'55%'glycol'distearate'='0.55'and'45%'ceteareth,20'='6.84.'Total'='7.39.'Close'enough!''So'we'know'we'need'to'use'55%'glycol'distearate'and'45%'ceteareth,20'as'our'emulsifier.''If'we're'using'4%'emulsifier'in'this'product'(again,'this'is'kind'of'a'random'number'I've'chosen'as'there'isn't'a'rule'of'thumb'for'HLB'emulsifiers),'then'we'need'2.2%'glycol'distearate'(4%'x'0.55)'and'1.8%'ceteareth,20'(4%'x'0.45)'in'our'recipe.''Remember,'when'you'decrease'the'oil'phase,'increase'the'water'phase'by'the'same'amount!'

SIX&INGREDIENT&LOTION&WITH&SHEA,&SOY&BEAN,&AND&SESAME&OIL&MODIFIED&TO&USE&HLB&EMULSIFIERS&HEATED'WATER'PHASE'41.5%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'10%'refined'shea'butter'


10%'soy'bean'oil'10%'sesame'oil'2.2%'glycol'distearate'1.8%'ceteareth,20''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Now'comes'the'rejoicing!'Yay!'

HLB,SYSTEM:,A,DEMONSTRATION,WITH,OUR,BASIC,BODY,BUTTER,RECIPE,Do'you'want'to'get'more'complicated?'Oh,'that'can'be'arranged!''

OUR&MODIFIED&BODY&BUTTER&RECIPE&WATER'PHASE'42%'water'10%'aloe'vera'liquid'10%'lavender'or'rose'hydrosol'2%'sodium'lactate''OIL'PHASE'10%'oils','5%'macadamia'nut'and'5%'safflower'oil'15%'butter'of'choice','I'm'using'mango'butter'at'15%'4%'emulsifier','to'be'determined'3%'cetyl'alcohol'2%'IPM''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone''What's'in'the'oil'phase'and'how'much'do'we'have?''Macadamia'nut','5%','HLB:'7'Safflower'oil','5%','HLB:'8'


Mango'butter','15%','HLB:'8'Cetyl'alcohol','3%','HLB:'15.2'IPM','2%','HLB:'11.5''Don't'forget'the'silicones'in'the'oil'phase!''Silicones'are'tricky'things'in'that'there'could'be'various'HLB'values'for'them.'As'a'rule'of'thumb,'cyclomethicone'is'about'8'and'dimethicone'is'9'or'10,'depending'upon'the'centistokes.'The'higher'the'centistoke,'the'higher'the'HLB.'Since'I'normally'use'350'c.s.,'which'is'a'low'c.s.'dimethicone,'we'll'consider'this'a'9.'(If'you'don't'know'the'c.s.'on'your'dimethicone,'ask'your'supplier.'If'you'can't'do'that,'the'thicker'the'dimethicone,'the'higher'the'c.s.'If'it's'like'corn'syrup,'it's'likely'a'higher'c.s.'If'it's'like'water,'it's'likely'a'lower'c.s.)''Special&note:%Please%read%the%next%section%on%silicones%and%the%HLB%system.%I'm%going%to%suggest%you%use%5%as%the%required%HLB%value%for%dimethicone.%I'm%not%re?doing%this%math,%and%the%recipe%does%work%with%dimethicone%at%9,%but%if%you%want%to%use%the%HLB%system%for%your%own%recipes,%you'll%probably%want%to%use%5%in%the%future.%%'Cyclomethicone','2%','HLB:'8'Dimethicone','2%','HLB:'9''The'oil'phase'is'34%'of'the'recipe,'so'we'need'to'figure'out'the'percentages'in'our'oil'phase.''Macadamia'nut','5/34'='0.147'or'14.7%'of'the'oil'phase'Safflower'oil','5/34','='0.147'or'14.7%'of'the'oil'phase'Mango'butter','15/34'='0.441'or'44.1%'of'the'oil'phase'Cetyl'alcohol','3/34='0.088'or'8.8%'of'the'oil'phase'IPM','2/34'='0.0588'or'5.9%'of'the'oil'phase'Cyclomethicone','2/34'='0.0588'or'5.9%'of'the'oil'phase'Dimethicone','2/34'='0.0588'or'5.9%'of'the'oil'phase.''Check'your'total.'Yep,'it'equals'100%!''So'we'have'our'numbers','now'multiply'those'by'their'HLB'values''


Macadamia'nut','0.147'x'7'='1.029'Safflower'oil','0.147'x'8'='1.176'Mango'butter','0.441'x'8'='3.528'Cetyl'alcohol','0.088'x'15.2'='1.338'IPM','0.0588'x'11.5'='0.6762'Cyclomethicone','0.0588'x'8'='0.4704'Dimethicone','0.0588'x'9'='0.5292'Total'HLB'for'the'oil'phase:'8.7468','we'll'round'this'up'to'8.75'or'8.8.''So'our'HLB'target'number'for'the'emulsifiers'is'8.8.''The'HLB'for'glycol'distearate'is'1.'The'HLB'for'ceteareth,20'is'15.2.'We'know'from'yesterday'that'a'50,50'mix'of'these'emulsifiers'will'give'us'8.1.'But'we'need'8.8'so'we'can't'just'use'yesterday's'numbers.'Darn!'We're'working'with'4%'total'emulsifiers.''So'if'we'use'55%'ceteareth,20'(0.55'x'15.2'='8.36)'and'45%'glycol'distearate'(0.45'x'1'='0.45)'we'will'get'an'emulsification'system'with'an'HLB'of'8.81.'Perfect!''So'we'know'we'need'2.2%'ceteareth,20'and'1.8%'glycol'distearate'to'make'this'body'butter'work!''Click'here'for'an'Excel'spreadsheet'that'might'help'with'the'HLB'system!'http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1020026/hlb%20worksheet.xls'I'attached'this'to'your'copy'of'the'lotion'making'e,book,'but'just'in'case'you'lose'it!'''

AN,ASIDE,ON,HLB,VALUES,OF,SILICONES,Mich'brought'up'a'very'good'point'that'I'think'needs'addressing!''Here%you%have%the%HLB%requirement%for%dimethicone%as%either%9%or%10,%depending%on%c.s.%It%is%listed%as%5%on%both%LabRat's%PDF%and%the%Herbarie's%list.%(Neither%of%those%specify%the%c.s.)%'In'the'texts'I've'been'reading,'I'keep'seeing'9'to'10'as'the'required'HLB'value'for'dimethicone.'But'it'makes'more'sense'for'silicones'to'have'a'required'HLB'value'of'5.'A'


low'required'HLB'value'of'5'indicates'the'molecule'is'more'hydrophobic'(and'more'lipophilic)'and'is'less'water'soluble'than'one'with'a'required'HLB'of'9'or'10.'We'know'how'hydrophobic'dimethicone'is','just'try'mixing'it'in'water!','so'it'should'be'a'5!''The'HLB'value'of'a'molecule'is'determined'by'the'molecular'weight'of'the'hydrophilic'portion'and'divided'by'5.'Silicones','like'the'dimethicone'and'cyclomethicone','are'inorganic'molecules,'meaning'they'are'based'on'silicon'and'oxygen.'(Organic'molecules'have'hydrocarbon'groups'that'contain'hydrogen'and'carbon).'As'a'silicone'is'almost'completely'oil'soluble'(and'therefore,'hydrophobic)'it'should'have'a'low'number!''And'yes,'I'know'there'are'water'soluble'silicones,'but'this'issue'is'already'complicated'enough!''But'silicones'don't'act'like'our'normal'lotion'ingredients.'Their'behaviour'in'lotions'are'hard'to'predict.'To'quote'from'Surfactants'in'Personal'Care'Products:''

Direct'application'of'the'HLB'concept'to'these'materials'has'resulted'in'approximate'and'often'misleading'values'due'to'the'fact'that'silicones'are'organic/inorganic'hybrids'and'the'thermodynamics'of'their'interactions'with'the'oil'and'water'phases'in'emulsions'scale'differently'than'do'the'interactions'of'purely'organic'amphiphiles.'

'In'other'words,'it's'hard'to'predict'what'a'silicone'will'do'and'put'a'required'HLB'value'on'it.''A'new'system'needed'to'be'created'for'molecules'like'silicones'which'are'difficult'to'categorize.'It's'called'the'3D'HLB'system'and'there'is'no'way'I'can'explain'it'all'here'(click'http://www.zenitech.com/documents/hlb_english.pdf'for'3D'HLB'fun!)'Instead'of'thinking'about'oil,in,water'emulsions'and'water,in,oil'emulsions,'we'must'now'consider'silicone,in,oil'emulsions,'silicone,in,water'emulsions,'water,in,silicone'emulsions,'and'oil,in,silicone'emulsions.'(Please'consult'the'PDF'linked'above'for'detailed'information'this'system...it'is'a'very'good'PDF'and'will'make'more'sense'than'I'will!)''So'what'the'heck'does'all'of'this'mean?'Well,'it'means'we'can't'predict'what'a'silicone'will'do'in'an'emulsion'without'using'the'3D'HLB'system.'Since'most'of'us'don't'have'access'to'fancy'labs'and'hundreds'of'different'ingredients'(sigh...)'then'we'have'to'go'by'what'the'suppliers'tell'us.'


'So'if'we'look'at'all'the'stuff'from'the'section'on'the'demonstration'with'the'basic'body'butter'recipe'that'included'silicones….''Macadamia'nut','0.147'x'7'='1.029'Safflower'oil','0.147'x'8'='1.176'Mango'butter','0.441'x'8'='3.528'Cetyl'alcohol','0.088'x'15.2'='1.338'IPM','0.0588'x'11.5'='0.6762'Cyclomethicone','0.0588'x'8'='0.4704'Dimethicone','0.0588'x'9'='0.5292'Total'HLB'for'the'oil'phase:'8.7468','we'll'round'this'up'to'8.75'or'8.8.''…we'can'see'our'HLB'target'number'for'the'emulsifiers'is'8.8.''What'if'we'change'the'dimethicone'number'to'be'5?'Dimethicone','0.0588'x'5'='0.294''Add'the'numbers'together,'and'our'HLB'target'number'for'the'emulsifiers'is'8.4816'or'8.5.''Is'that'a'big'difference?'I'would'say'yes,'a'0.3'difference'is'significant.'We'have'to're,work'the'emulsifiers'for'this'lotion'and'do'more'math.'More'math'='significant.''My'head'is'starting'to'hurt,'so'I'll'summarize'my'thoughts...On'the'one'hand'I'have'various'textbooks'and'data'sheets'telling'me'dimethicone'has'a'required'HLB'value'of'9'to'10,'and'on'the'other'hand'I'have'the'Herbarie'and'Lab'Rat'telling'me'it's'5.'I've'gone'to'a'number'of'manufacturers''sites'and'they'won't'give'me'the'number;'they'tell'me'it's'hydrophobic,'as'if'I'didn't'already'know'that.''It'makes'sense'to'me'for'dimethicone'to'be'a'5','it's'hydrophobic,'lipophilic,'and'certainly'doesn't'have'any'hydrophilic'tendencies'(why'does'that'sound'rude'to'me?),'all'of'which'point'to'a'low'required'HLB'value.'I'trust'the'Herbarie'and'Lab'Rat,'so'I'm'going'to'go'with'5'as'the'required'HLB'for'dimethicone.''


THE,HLB,SYSTEM:,ALTERING,THE,OIL,PHASE,Remember'that'if'you'make'a'change'to'any'of'the'oil'soluble'ingredients'you'll'need'to're,calculate'your'emulsifier!'If'you're'going'from'one'vegetable'oil'to'another','soy'bean'oil'to'sunflower'oil,'sweet'almond'to'olive'oil,'and'so'on','you'probably'won't'have'to'do'a'lot'of'math'as'most'of'them'have'an'HLB'of'7.''If'you'change'butters,'mango'butter'(HLB'8)'or'shea'butter'(HLB'8)'to'cocoa'butter'(HLB'6),'you'll'have'to'do'some'math.''NOT,SO,MUCH,A,SIX,INGREDIENT,LOTION,ANY,MORE,WITH,SHEA,,SOY,BEAN,,AND,SESAME,OIL'HEATED'WATER'PHASE'32%'water'20%'aloe'vera'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin'2%'hydrolyzed'oat'protein'2.5%'sodium'PCA''HEATED'OIL'PHASE'5%'refined'shea'butter'7.5%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'sesame'oil'2%'IPM'or'IPP'3%'cetyl'alcohol'6%'BTMS,50''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'cyclomethicone'2%'dimethicone'1%'Vitamin'E'2%'panthenol'0.5%'powdered'chamomile'extract'0.5%'liquid'Germall'Plus'1%'fragrance'oil'(Clementine'Cupcake)''Our'current'oil'phase'makes'up'30%'of'the'recipe'(count'the'heated'oil'phase,'as'well'as'the'cyclomethicone,'dimethicone,'and'Vitamin'E).'Divide'the'percentage'of'each'


ingredient'by'the'oil'phase'to'find'out'the'percentage'this'oil'ingredient'makes'up'in'the'oil'phase,'then'multiply'that'by'the'HLB'value.''''Shea','HLB'8','0.167'x'8'='1.336'Soybean','HLB'7','0.25'x'7'='1.750'Sesame'oil','HLB'7','0.25'x'7'='1.750'IPM','HLB'11.5','0.067'x'11.5'='0.7705'Cetyl'alcohol','HLB'15.5','0.10'x'15.5'='1.55'Cyclomethicone','HLB'7.5','0.067'x'7.5'='0.5025'Dimethicone','HLB'5','0.067'x'5'='0.5025'Vitamin'E'(Tocopherol)','HLB'6','0.033'x'6'='0.198''Our'required'HLB'value'for'this'product'will'be'8.192''Choose'two'emulsifiers','let's'choose'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2).'''50%'glycol'distearate'(0.50)'+'50%'cetereath,20'(7.6)'='8.1'''This'is'close'enough'for'our'needs'because'49%'glycol'distearate'and'51%'cetereath,20'='8.242,'which'will'be'a'huge'pain'to'get'right'because'our'scales'don't'generally'go'to'0.01'grams'(unless'you're'really'lucky).'So'if'we're'using'5%'emulsifier,'we'll'need'2.5%'glycol'distearate'and'2.5%'ceteareth,20.'''Or'choose'two'other'emulsifiers!'Let's'choose'sorbitan'stearate'(HLB'4.7)'and'PEG,100'stearate'(18.8).'I'eventually'figure'out'that'I'need'80%'sorbitan'stearate'(5.5)'and'20%'PEG,100'stearate'(3.76)'for'a'total'of'8.26,'which'is'close'enough'to'8.192.'If'we're'using'5%'emulsifier,'we'll'need'4%'sorbitan'stearate'and'1%'PEG,100'stearate.'''

CHANGING&ONE&OIL&Let's'say'we'want'to'make'one'small'change','substituting'castor'oil'castor'oil'(HLB'14)'for'soy'bean'oil'(HLB'7).'We'end'up'with'an'HLB'of'9.942'(previous'HLB'8.192).'What'a'difference!'''If'we'combine'37%'glycol'distearate'with'63%'ceteareth,20'we'get'an'HLB'of'9.946.'If'we're'using'5%'emulsifier,'we'll'need'to'use'1.85%'glycol'distearate'and'3.15%'ceteareth,20'just'to'accommodate'the'switch'from'soy'bean'oil'to'castor'oil.'If'we're'


using'sorbitan'stearate'and'PEG,100'stearate,'we'll'have'to'use'3.15%'sorbitan'stearate'(37%)'and'1.85%'PEG,100'stearate'(63%)'to'accommodate'the'changes'with'5%'emulsifier.'''I%want%to%point%that%it's%a%complete%fluke%that%these%numbers%ended%up%similar.%I%chose%sorbitan%stearate%and%PEG?100%stearate%kind%of%at%random,%and%I%was%surprised%to%see%that%I%needed%the%inverse%for%both%emulsifiers!%%'

CHANGING&EVERYTHING!&&But'what'if'we'want'to'change'some'of'the'oils'for'others,'but'keeping'the'same'amounts?''Cocoa'butter'(HLB'6)'instead'of'shea'butter'(HLB'8)'='0.167'x'6'='1.002'Fractionated'coconut'oil'(HLB'5)'for'the'soy'bean'oil'(HLB'7)'='0.25'x'5'='1.250'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'(HLB'13)'for'the'sesame'seed'oil'(HLB'7)'='0.25'x'13'='3.250'Cetyl'esters'(HLB'10)'for'cetyl'alcohol'(HLB'15.5)'='0.10'x'10'='1.00'Crodamol'STS'(aka'PPG,3'benzyl'ether'myristate,'silicone'replacement,'HLB'13.49)'to'replace'the'cyclomethicone'(HLB'5)'and'dimethicone'(HLB5)'='0.133'x'13.49'='1.80'(rounded'up)'Vitamin'E'(Tocopherol)','HLB'6','0.033'x'6'='0.198''Our'required'HLB'for'this'product'is'8.50.'I'll'grant'you'that'it's'not'that'dramatic'a'change,'but'if'we'used'the'emulsifiers'from'the'last'version,'we'could'get'some'separation.'''How'much'emulsifier'will'we'need?'I'eventually'figure'out'that'we'would'need'47%'glycol'distearate'(0.47)'and'53%'ceteareth,20'(8.056)'to'reach'the'required'HLB'value.'This'means'if'we'used'5%'we'd'need'2.35%'glycol'distearate'and'2.65%'ceteareth,20.'I'think'that's'a'pretty'significant'difference!''

HLB,SYSTEM:,TRY,IT,FOR,YOURSELF!,,Now'you'try'it!'Here's'a'recipe'on'which'you'can'practice'your'mad'HLB'figuring'out'skills!'

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&WATER'PHASE'


25%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'witch'hazel'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'5%'tamarind'seed'extract'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'10%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'cocoa'butter'7.5%'mango'butter'7%'emulsifier*''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''Remember'the'steps'to'finding'out'the'HLB'value'of'your'ingredients.'1.'Which'ingredients'have'an'HLB'value?'2.'How'much'of'each'ingredient'is'in'the'total'recipe?'3.'Divide'this'by'the'total'oil'phase'to'get'a'percentage.'4.'Multiply'the'percentage'by'the'HLB'value.'Add'them'together'to'get'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.''And'remember'the'steps'to'finding'out'the'HLB'value'of'your'emulsifiers.'1.'Find'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'a'high'HLB'emulsifier.'2.'Work'on'the'percentages'to'find'a'total'that'is'very'close'to'the'HLB'value'of'your'oil'phase.'3.'Rejoice!''I'm'going'to'suggest'you'use'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2)'as'your'emulsifiers,'but'you'can'use'others.'It's'just'those'are'the'ones'I'm'using'and'it'will'be'easier'to'compare'your'notes'with'mine'if'we're'using'the'same'emulsifiers!''


'''

,AN,ASIDE:,DON’T,FEAR,THE,MATH!,I'know'a'lot'of'people'cringe'when'they'see'math,'but'I'say'give'numbers'a'chance!''When'I'started'taking'math'again','I'needed'to'submit'a'mark'for'grade'12'math'that'was'within'the'last'five'years',''I'would'sit'at'my'desk'and'say'how'much'I'hated,'hated,'hated'it!'(I'm'not'a'fan'of'trig'or'geometry'because'I'don't'know'left'and'right'and'I'can't'move'objects'in'my'head).'I'realized'didn't'hate'it,'I'was'just'frustrated'by'my'not,so,mad'skills'in'it.'It'made'me'feel'really'stupid'to'sit'and'look'at'a'picture'of'a'triangle'and'not'understand'how'this'one'was'ambiguous'and'the'other'wasn't'(which'is'the'best'name'for'a'band'ever','the'Ambiguous'Triangles!).'But'with'a'lot'of'hard'work'and'persistence,'I'got'it'in'the'end'and'managed'an'A!'I'made'friends'with'math'and'I'm'happy'with'what'I'know,'and'I'm'even'considering'taking'more'math'in'the'future.''Give'math'a'chance.'Sit'down'with'it'and'don't'be'afraid.'Work'out'the'math'step'by'step'and'you'will'get'an'answer'eventually.'It's'not'about'speed,'it's'about'persistence.'If'it's'the'wrong'one,'then'go'back'and'figure'it'out'where'you'went'wrong.'The'nice'thing'about'math'is'that'there'is'always'a'right'answer,'and'there's'some'comfort'in'that'kind'of'surety.''We're'fortunate'in'cosmetic'chemistry'that'we'don't'have'to'look'at'a'ton'of'numbers','some'basic'skills'in'figuring'out'percentages'is'generally'enough,'although'if'you'really'want'to'get'into'logarithms'for'the'pH'scale,'have'at'it','and'with'a'little'persistence,'you'can'get'good'at'it.'You'don't'need'to'be'a'math'genius'to'be'comfortable'with'math.''

HOW,DID,YOU,DO,ON,WORKING,IT,OUT?,THE,ANSWERS,'1.,Which,ingredients,have,an,HLB,value?,The'soy'bean'(HLB'7),'cocoa'butter'(HLB'6),'and'mango'butter'(HLB'8).''2.,How,much,of,each,ingredient,is,in,the,total,recipe?,Soy'bean'oil'='10%'Cocoa'butter'='7.5%'


Mango'butter'='7.5%'Total'oil'phase'='25%''3.,Divide,this,by,the,total,oil,phase,to,get,a,percentage,for,each,ingredient.,Soy'bean'oil','10/25'='0.40'Cocoa'butter','7.5/25'='0.30'Mango'butter','7.5/25'='0.30''4.,Multiply,the,percentage,by,the,HLB,value.,Add,them,together,to,get,the,HLB,value,of,your,oil,phase.,Soy'bean'oil','HLB'7','7'x'0.40'='2.80'Cocoa'butter','HLB'6','6'x'0.30'='1.80'Mango'butter','HLB'8','8'x'0.30'='2.40'So'our'target'number'is'7.00''On'to'our'emulsifiers!''1.,Find,a,low,HLB,emulsifier,and,a,high,HLB,emulsifier.,I'll'go'with'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2).'You'can'choose'any'low'and'high'HLB'emulsifiers'you'like,'but'I'm'going'with'these'ones'for'this'exercise.''2.,Work,on,the,percentages,to,find,a,total,that,is,very,close,to,the,HLB,value,of,your,oil,phase.,50%'glycol'distearate'(0.5)'+'50%'ceteareth,20'(7.6)'='8.1.'Too'high'60%'glycol'distearate'(0.6)'+'40%'ceteareth,20'(6.08)'='6.68.'Too'low.'55%'glycol'distearate'(0.55)'+'45%'ceteareth,20'(6.84)'='7.39.'Too'high.'57%'glycol'distearate'(0.57)'+'43%'ceteareth,20'(6.536)'='7.106.'Too'high.'58%'glycol'distearate'(0.58)'+'42%'ceteareth,20'(6.384)'='6.964.'Just'about'right!'Let's'go'with'this'one!''If'we're'using'4%'emulsifiers,'we'll'need'to'use'2.32%'glycol'distearate'(4'x'0.58)'and'1.68%'ceteareth,20'(4'x'0.42).'This'is'kind'of'an'annoying'number,'but'we'really'don't'want'to'round'it'up'or'down'or'we'll'end'up'with'the'60%'glycol'distearate'and'40%'ceteareth,20'amounts,'which'we'know'equals'6.68,'which'is'too'low'for'our'required'HLB'amounts!''


This'is'where'you'might'consider'using'another'emulsifier'so'you'aren't'having'to'buy'some'really'expensive'scale!'You'can'round'up'to'2.3%'glycol'distearate'and'1.7%'ceteareth,20'without'seeing'too'many'problems.'Or'you'might'consider'going'to'5%'emulsifier,'if'it's'easier'(works'out'to'2.9%'glycol'distearate,'2.1%'ceteareth,20,'which'would'be'easier'than'the'original'numbers'we'calculated!).'Remember'that'the'4%'is'kind'of'a'random'number','there's'no'rule'of'thumb'about'using'HLB'emulsifiers'like'there'is'for'Polawax.''You'won't'necessarily'get'nice'round'numbers'with'this'system,'like'30%'one'emulsifier,'70%'another.'It's'just'as'likely'you'll'get'31%'and'69%'or'51%'and'49%.'Play'with'the'numbers'until'you'get'the'total'you'want.'''3.,Rewrite,the,recipe,with,the,new,emulsifiers.,Remember,to,increase,your,water,amount,when,you,decrease,your,oil,phase.,,

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&WITH&THE&HLB&FIGURED&OUT!&WATER'PHASE'28%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'witch'hazel'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'5%'tamarind'seed'extract'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'10%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'cocoa'butter'7.5%'mango'butter'2.3%'glycol'distearate'1.7%'ceteareth,20''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend'


'There'you'have'it!'If'you'got'it'right,'kudos'to'you!'If'you'didn't,'that's'okay.'You'just'need'some'practice.'And'for'those'of'you'who'see'math'and'shut'down'thinking'you'can't'do'it,'I'have'one'suggestion:'Don't'be'afraid'of'math!'It'isn't'afraid'of'you.'It'won't'bite'or'kick'you'in'your'sleep.'It'won't'steal'your'car'and'take'it'out'joy'riding'into'muddy'fields'where'it'can'do'doughnuts'and'crop'circles!'Math'is'nice!''

THE,HLB,SYSTEM:,LET’S,GET,SLIGHTLY,MORE,COMPLICATED,The'one'down'side'of'using'the'HLB'system'is'that'you'have'to'figure'out'the'HLB'of'the'oil'phase'if'you'change'an'ingredient'(unless'you're'substituting'one'vegetable'based'oil'for'another'one,'but'even'then'jojoba'could'throw'you'off'because'it's'6.5,'fractionated'coconut'oil'is'5.5,'and'emu'oil'is'8,'although'that's'not'a'vegetable'oil,'is'it?).''The'other'down'side'is'that'it's'hard'to'find'information'for'some'of'our'esters.'There's'some'great'information'in'the'PDF'to'which'I'keep'referring'(and'you'really'should'have'downloaded'by'now'if'you'want'to'play'along).'So'let's'take'a'look'at'what'happens'when'we'take'a'recipe','let's'use'the'body'butter'recipe'to'keep'things'consistent','and'mess'with'it'by'changing'the'oils,'adding'some'esters'and'silicones,'and'adding'some'fatty'alcohols.'(This'won't'be'considered'minimally'processed'for'much'longer!)''BODY,BUTTER,FOR,ITCHY,WINTER,SKIN,WITH,MINIMALLY,PROCESSED,INGREDIENTS,WATER'PHASE'25%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'witch'hazel'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'5%'tamarind'seed'extract'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'10%'soy'bean'oil'7.5%'cocoa'butter'7.5%'mango'butter'7%'emulsifier*'


'COOL'DOWN'PHASE'0.5%'chamomile'extract'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''Let's'say'you'want'this'to'be'a'drier'feeling'body'butter.'We'll'keep'the'7.5%'mango'butter'(HLB'8),'but'let's'add'a'few'esters'to'the'mix.'I'think'I'want'some'isopropyl'myristate'at'2%'(HLB'11.5)'and'I'll'add'3%'cetyl'alcohol'to'thicken'the'product'(since'I'took'out'the'cocoa'butter,'it'will'be'thinner),'which'has'an'HLB'of'15.5.'I'think'I'll'include'5%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'(HLB'12)'and'5.5%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'(HLB'8.22).'And'finally,'I'think'I'll'go'with'dimethicone'at'2%'in'the'cool'down'phase'(it's'listed'as'5,'but'there's'some'debate'about'this.'Click'on'this'post'for'more'information).''Okay,'so'where'are'we?'We'didn't'change'the'amount'of'the'oil'phase','it's'still'25%'of'the'total'recipe'(we'don't'include'the'emulsifier'because'we're'trying'to'replace'that)','but'we've'changed'the'HLB'dramatically!''Remember'the'steps'to'finding'out'the'HLB'of'your'oil'phase...'1.,Which,ingredients,have,an,HLB,value?,Mango'butter,'isopropyl'myristate,'cetyl'alcohol,'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate,'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate,'and'dimethicone.''2.,How,much,of,each,ingredient,is,in,the,recipe?,Mango'butter','7.5%'IPM','2%'Cetyl'alcohol','3%'Dimethicone','2%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate','5%'Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','5.5%'Total'oil'phase'='25%''3.,Divide,the,amounts,by,the,total,oil,phase,to,find,out,how,much,each,makes,up,in,the,oil,phase.,Mango'butter','7.5/25'='0.30'or'30%'IPM','2/25'='0.08'or'8%'Cetyl'alcohol','3/25'='0.12'or'12%'


Dimethicone','2/25'='0.08'or'8%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate','5/25'='0.20'or'20%'Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','5.5/25'='0.22'or'22%''4.,Multiply,the,percentage,by,the,HLB,value.,Add,them,together,to,get,the,HLB,value,of,your,oil,phase.,Mango'butter','HLB'8','0.30'x'8'='2.40'IPM','HLB'10','0.08'x'10'='0.80'Cetyl'alcohol','HLB'15.5','0.12'x'15.5'='1.86'Dimethicone','HLB'5','0.08'x'5'='0.40'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate','0.20'x'13','2.60'Cetearyl'ethylhexanoate','0.22'x'8.22'='1.8084''So'the'required'HLB'of'this'oil'phase'is'9.8684.''1.,Find,a,low,HLB,emulsifier,and,a,high,HLB,emulsifier.,I'll'go'with'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2)'for'one'combination'and'glyceryl'stearate'(HLB'3.8)'and'oleth,10'(HLB'12.4)'for'another.''2.,Work,on,the,percentages,to,find,a,total,that,is,very,close,to,the,HLB,value,of,your,oil,phase.,'GLYCOL'DISTEARATE'AND'CETEARETH,20'50%'glycol'distearate'(0.5)'+'50%'ceteareth,20'(7.6)'='8.1.'Too'low.'40%'glycol'distearate'(0.40)'+'60%'ceteareth,20'(9.12)'='9.52.'Still'too'low.'38%'glycol'distearate'(0.38)'+'62%'ceteareth,20'(9.424)'='9.804.'Close'enough!''If'we're'using'4%'emulsifiers'in'this'recipe,'we'll'need'to'use'1.52%'glycol'distearate'(4%'x'0.38'='1.52%)'and'2.48%'ceteareth,20'(4%'x'0.62'='2.48).'If'we'want'to'use'5%'emulsifiers'in'this'recipe,'we'll'need'to'use'1.9%'glycol'distearate'(5%'x'0.38'='1.9%)'and'3.1%'ceteareth,20'(5%'x'0.62'='3.1%).''GLYCERYL'STEARATE'(HLB'3.8)'AND'OLETH,10'(HLB'12.4)'50%'glyceryl'stearate'(1.9)'+'50%'oleth,10'(6.2)'='8.1.'Too'low.''40%'glyceryl'stearate'(1.52)'+'60%'oleth,10'(7.44)'='8.96.'Still'too'low!'30%'glyceryl'stearate'(1.14)'+'70%'oleth,10'(8.68)'='9.82.'Just'about'right!'''


If'we're'using'4%'emulsifiers'in'this'recipe,'we'll'need'to'use'1.2%'glyceryl'stearate'(30%'of'4%'is'1.2','0.3'x'4'='1.2)'and'2.8%'oleth,10'(70%'of'3%'is'2.8','0.7'x'4'='2.8).'''If'you'want'more'practice,'try'figuring'out'how'you'd'use'something'like'PEG,100'stearate'(HLB'18.8)'and'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'or'polysorbate'80'(HLB'15)'and'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'or'any'other'combination'of'high'and'low'HLB'emulsifiers!'''What'does'our'recipe'look'like'now?'(And'remember'to'increase'your'water'amount'if'you've'removed'anything'from'the'oil'phase.'We'took'out'2%'of'the'previous'emulsifier,'so'we'need'to'increase'the'water'to'27%).''

BODY&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY&WINTER&SKIN&WITH&NOT[SO&MINIMALLY&PROCESSED&INGREDIENTS&USING&HLB&EMULSIFIERS&WATER'PHASE'27%'water'10%'aloe'vera'10%'chamomile'hydrosol'10%'witch'hazel'2%'hydrolyzed'protein'5%'tamarind'seed'extract'3%'glycerin'0.5%'allantoin''OIL'PHASE'7.5%'mango'butter'2%'IPM'3%'cetyl'alcohol'5%'C12,15'alkyl'benzoate'5.5%'cetearyl'ethylhexanoate'5%'emulsifier'(1.9%'glycol'distearate'and'3.1%'ceteareth,20'or'1.2%'glyceryl'stearate'and'2.8%'oleth,10)''COOL'DOWN'PHASE'2%'dimethicone'0.5%'chamomile'extract'0.5'to'1%'preservative'1%'fragrance'or'essential'oil'blend''


AN,ASIDE:,WHAT,IS,THE,HLB,SYSTEM,FOR,OUR,ALL[IN[ONE,EMULSIFIERS?,Tara'wrote:'So%since%there%is%no%HLB%value%for%BTMS%(or%it%can't%be%found),%or%rule%of%thumb%for%its%use,%we%should%use%it%according%to%our%preference%of%thickness?''The'HLB'of'BTMS,50'is'estimated'at'15.5'and'Polawax'at'14.9,'but'these'are'kind'of'irrelevant'because'they'are'all'in'one'emulsifiers'and'we'don't'need'to'calculate'a'required'HLB'for'the'oil'phase'for'them.''

AN,ASIDE:,DO,WE,EVER,USE,MORE,THAN,TWO,EMULSIFIERS,IN,AN,HLB,SYSTEM?,Melian'asked:'Do%we%ever%use%more%than%2%emulsifiers%in%a%combination?%Or%is%the%two%just%for%ease%in%explaining%it%and%not%frightening%us%into%passing%out?%Re%the%BTMS%question.%I%have%in%my%notes%the%following,%“The%HLB%calculations%are%only%for%non?ionic%emulsifiers,%and%will%not%work%for%other%types%of%emulsifiers%(cationics,%anionics,%alkyl%lactylates,%etc.)”%so%BTMS%would%be%irrelevant?'''You're'right','for'non,non,ionic'emulsifiers,'we'aren't'calculating'the'HLB,'but'some'anionic'ingredients'behave'as'non,ionic'emulsifiers'and'we'd'use'a'theoretical'HLB'number'for'those.'It'gets'kinda'complicated.'Let’s'take'a'look'at'those'questions'now!'''

MORE,ASIDES,ON,THE,HLB,SYSTEM,Melian'poses'some'very'interesting'questions'in'this'post,'and'I'thought'they'needed'to'be'answered'here!'''Question:'I'm'finding'disagreements'on'the'hlb'of'a'few'oils.'how'do'we'know'what'is'the'correct'value?'Specifically,:'Mango'Seed'Butter'8'Mango'(Mangifera'Indica)'Seed'Oil'[RHLB'='7'±'1]''Meadowfoam'Seed'Oil'6.5'Meadowfoam'(Limnanthes'Alba)'Seed'Oil'[RHLB'='6'±'1]''Myristyl'Myristate'8.5'Myristyl'Myristate'[RHLB'='7.52'±'1]''


Jojoba'Oil'6.5'Jojoba'(Buxus'Chinensis)'Oil'[RHLB'='6'±'1]''Cyclomethicone'7.75'Cyclomethicone'[RHLB'='7.5'±'1]''How'do'we'choose?''If'you'look'at'the'values'you've'posted,'a'lot'of'them'are'with'in'the'+/,'range.'For'instance,'if'mango'butter'is'7'+/,'1,'then'it'could'be'6,'it'could'be'8.'With'meadowfoam'seed'oil'listed'as'6'+/,'1,'6.5'falls'into'that'range.'And'so'on.''HLB,values,for,our,emulsifiers,are,determined,theoretically,and,experimentally.,,Required'HLB'values'are'determined'experimentally,'which'is'to'say'that'each'batch'of'oil'must'be'tested'and'the'HLB'value'must'be'calculated.'Vegetable'and'animal'oils'can'vary'a'lot'between'regions,'seasons,'climates,'and'variations'of'crops.'For'instance,'a'sunflower'might'go'through'a'cold'patch'and'produce'more'of'one'fatty'acid'or'more'phytosterols'than'the'last'crop'from'this'field,'and'this'could'alter'the'HLB'value'for'that'entire'harvest.'Does'the'company'distributing'the'sunflower'oil'test'the'required'HLB'every'time?'Probably'not.''If'you'read'any'of'the'oil'or'butter'posts'I've'written'for'my'blog'or'my'e,books,'you'll'always'see'ranges'for'things'like'fatty'acids,'phytosterols,'tocopherols,'and'polyphenols'as'opposed'to'something'very'specific.'If'we'take'a'look'at'sunflower'oil,'you'll'see'it'contains'5'to'7%'palmitic'acid,'3'to'6%'stearic'acid,'16'to'36%'oleic'acid,'and'61'to'73%'linoleic'acid.'If'you'have'a'batch'with'73%'linoleic'acid'and'one'with'61%'linoleic'acid,'this'could'change'the'required'HLB'value'for'the'batch.'''This%variation%in%natural%ingredients%is%one%of%the%reasons%cosmetic%chemists%use%mineral%oil%and%esters%a%lot.%Mineral%oil%is%always%mineral%oil%and%the%same%product%from%the%same%manufacturer%will%have%the%same%required%HLB%every%time.%'Under'the'theory'of'HLB,'all'castor'oils'should'have'the'same'HLB'(HLB'14),'but'they'don't'because'there'are'so'many'things'that'change'between'each'batch.'(Ironically,'I'haven't'seen'castor'oil'listed'as'anything'but'14,'but'it's'the'one'I'wrote'down'repeatedly'while'consulting'different'charts.)''


This'brings'us'to'a'very'different'discussion,'which'is'how,do,we,know,which,numbers,are,accurate,and,if,all,those,calculations,we've,been,doing,have,any,point?'We're'trying'to'get'these'really'accurate'figures'for'an'emulsifier,'but'then'it'turns'out'we'could'be'out'by'quite'a'lot'if'you'consider'that'+/,'part!'For'instance,'I'found'lanolin'listed'as'9'in'one'PDF,'10'in'LabRat's'PDF,'and'12'in'this'PDF'from'Zenitech.'How'will'this'affect'my'calculated'emulsifier'if'I'm'going'with'9'one'day'and'12'another'day?'If'I'm'using'lanolin'at'10%'of'a'30%'oil'phase'(so'it'makes'up'0.33)'I'could'be'out'by'1'in'my'required'HLB'(2.97'vs'3.96)!''So,what's,the,point,of,being,all,accurate,and,coming,up,with,a,figure,that,is,only,off,by,0.1,or,so,for,my,emulsifier,if,my,oil,values,could,be,wrong?'This'is'kind'of'a'rhetorical'question,'but'it'is'the'reason'I'tend'to'use'all,in,one'emulsifying'systems'like'Polawax,'BTMS,50,'Ritamulse,'and'so'on'more'often'than'I'use'the'HLB'emulsifiers.'As'much'I'like'the'ability'to'roll,my,own'and'not'be'dependent'upon'companies'that'don't'seem'to'appreciate'homecrafters'(you'know'which'companies'I'mean!),'it's'very'frustrating'to'think'that'all'that'hard'work'in'calculating'required'HLB'values'and'emulsifiers'might'be'completely'wrong!'With'something'like'Polawax,'you'don't'need'to'calculate'the'HLB'of'anything','just'make'sure'you're'using'25%'of'the'oil'phase'and'you're'likely'to'get'a'great'emulsification!''Yes,%I%realize%I've%just%made%an%argument%for%not%learning%the%HLB%system%when%I%still%have%at%least%one%more%post%on%the%topic,%but%there%are%great%reasons%for%using%it,%including%less%reliance%on%big%companies%when%they%change%their%formula%for%the%product,%lower%cost%for%these%emulsifiers,%and%the%pride%that%comes%in%knowing%you've%learned%something%new%and%can%use%it!%I%have%used%the%required%HLB%values%from%Convergent%Cosmetics:%Emulsions%&%the%HLB%system%PDF%for%the%last%few%years%and%the%only%time%I've%had%a%lotion%fail%is%when%I've%failed%to%do%something%right%like%heat%and%hold%for%20%minutes,%pouring%the%water%phase%into%the%oil%phase,%or%when%I've%messed%up%the%values%big%time!%'Melian'continues...There%are%more.%On%your%blog%you%said%that%squalane%was%12%to%12.9.%Another%source%said%it%is%7%plus%or%minus%1.%is%squalane%like%lecithin%and%varies?%Also,%is%lanolin%10%or%12?%the%pdf%you%cited%says%10%but%this%information%says%12.%How%do%we%know%who%to%believe?''I'think'I'found'the'HLB'value'of'squalane'at'Lotioncrafter…'but'then'I'find'another'page'that'says'it'is'9.5.'I'wonder'if'there'are'different'types'with'different'levels'of'


hydrogenation,'because'this'would'give'it'different'HLBs'for'different'types.'I'm'really'not'sure'how'to'answer'this'question.'Interestingly'enough,'I'found'some'information'on'squalene'that'indicates'that'"a'required'HLB'value'for'squalene'has'not'been'reported'in'the'literature"'(note'this'is'squalene,'not'squalane).''As%a%side%note,%the%reason%lecithin%varies%is%due%to%the%degree%of%hydrolysis%and%extraction%methods.%Hydrolysis%is%when%a%molecule%is%split%into%two%parts%by%the%addition%of%water.%Sometimes%an%acid%or%base%catalyst%is%used%in%the%process.%Saponification%is%the%hydrolysis%of%a%fat%(our%oils%and%butters)%with%a%base%like%sodium%hydroxide.%In%the%end,%we%get%soap!%'I'm'really'not'sure'who'to'suggest'you'trust'when'it'comes'to'finding'required'HLB'values'for'oils.'I'turn'to'the'PDF'I'keep'suggesting'–'written'by'LabRat'–'for'most'of'my'information.'But'considering'that'required'HLB'values'are'determined'experimentally,'every'batch'of'olive'oil'could'have'a'different'value,'so'it'could'vary'from'supplier'to'supplier.'It's'hard'to'know'the'exact'HLB'values'for'natural'oils'and'butters,'so'it'could'vary'by'as'much'as',1'to'+1.''Silicones'are'a'different'story','and'this'post'is'already'really'really'long!'There'can'be'variations'between'the'weight'of'each'silicone.'For'instance,'I'have'two'dimethicones','dimethicone'350'c.s.'and'dimethicone'1000'c.s.'(c.s.'stands'for'centistokes'and'the'higher'the'number,'the'thicker'the'dimethicone.)'Although'these'are'both'called'dimethicone,'they'may'have'slightly'different'HLB'values'based'on'the'viscosity'of'the'product.'(If'you'want'to'know'more'about'the'3D'HLB'system'as'it'relates'to'silicones,'check'out'the'powerpoint'presentation'found'here'or'the'PDF'found'here).'Powerpoint:'http://www.zenitech.com/documents/PowerPoint/3DHLB_slideshow_files/v3_document.htm'PDF:'http://www.zenitech.com/documents/hlb_english.pdf''

THE,HLB,SYSTEM:,USING,DIFFERENT,EMULSIFIERS,AND,A,FORMULA,I've'been'using'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'ceteareth,20'(HLB'15.2)'as'my'emulsifiers'for'a'lot'of'these'sections'on'the'HLB,'but'you'can'use'any'combination'you'wish'as'long'as'you'have'a'low'HLB'emulsifier'and'an'high'HLB'emulsifier'in'the'mix.''Here's'what'I'have'in'my'workshop'right'now:'glycol'distearate','HLB'1'


glycol'stearate','HLB'2.9'glyceryl'stearate','HLB'3.8'laureth,4','HLB'9.7'oleth'10','HLB'12.4'polysorbate'80','15.0'ceteareth,20','HLB'15.2'polysorbate'20','16.7''You'can'create'combinations'that'make'the'math'easier'or'for'a'better'skin'feel.'I've'chosen'glycol'distearate'and'ceteareth,20'because'I'like'the'skin'feel'and'I'have'tons'of'it'in'the'workshop,'but'you'can'go'for'any'combination.''Let's'use'this'as'our'sample'oil'phase.'We'have'a'25%'oil'phase'with'10%'soy'bean'oil'(HLB'7),''7.5%'cocoa'butter'(HLB'6),'and'7.5%''mango'butter'(HLB'8)'Let's'figure'out'the'required'HLB'value'for'this'lotion.''soy'oil','10/25'='0.4'x'7'='2.80'cocoa'butter','7.5/25'='0.4'x'6'='1.80'mango'butter','7.5/25'='0.4'x'8'='2.40''Our'required'HLB'for'this'lotion'is'7.00.''Let's'say'we'decide'to'use'glycol'distearate'(HLB'1)'and'polysorbate'80'(HLB'15).'The'closest'we'can'get'to'the'required'HLB'of'7'is'6.87'(57%'glycol'distearate'and'43%'polysorbate'80),'6.880'(58%'glycol'distearate'and'42%'polysorbate'80)'or'or'7.10'(55%'glycol'distearate'and'45%'polysorbate'80).'We'can't'quite'get'to'7,'so'we'll'have'to'fudge'it'or'get'even'more'specific.'(See'below.)''Or'let's'say'we'use'glycol'stearate'(HLB'2.9)'and'polysorbate'15'(HLB'15).'The'closest'we'can'get'to'the'required'HLB'of'7'is'7.014'(which'is'perfect'as'far'as'I'm'concerned)'with'66%'glycol'stearate'and'34%'polysorbate'80.'At'4%'this'would'be'2.64%'glycolstearate'and'1.36%'polysorbate'80.'At'5%'this'would'be'3.3%'glycol'stearate'and'2.7%'polysorbate'80.'I'think'the'5%'would'be'a'better'choice'because'we'can'accomplish'that'on'a'a'scale'that'weighs'down'to'0.1'grams!''Or'let's'say'we'decide'to'use'glycol'stearate'(HLB'2.9)'and'laureth,4'(HLB'9.7)'in'a'product.'The'closest'we'can'get'to'the'required'HLB'is'with'40%'glyceryl'stearate'and'


60%'laureth,4.'At'4%'I'll'need'1.6%'glyceryl'stearate'and'2.4%'laureth,4.'At'5%'I'll'need'2%'glyceryl'stearate'and'3%'laureth,4.''

I'work'this'all'out'by'hand,'mainly'because'I'enjoy'it.'I'write'down'the'low'HLB'emulsifier'(usually'by'HLB'number)'and'the'high'HLB'emulsifier'and'try'50,50'first.'Then'I'try'60,40'and'40,60'so'I'can'get'an'idea'of'where'the'number'might'fall.'Once'I'have'those'three'figures,'it's'easy'to'figure'out'where'to'start'and'go'down'by'fives'or'1'(so'61,39'or'65,35)'and'so'on.'

'If'you'are'comfortable'using'a'formula'for'this'and'want'to'make'it'easier,'here's'one'I'found'from'Snowdrift'Farms'and'it'works'really'well'for'me.'''''''Let's'try'this'out!'required'HLB'='7'HLB'B'(the'higher'HLB'emulsifier,'laureth,4)'='9.7'HLB'A'(the'lower'HLB'emulsifier,'glycol'stearate)'='2.9'''''''So'we'need'39.7%'of'HLB'A,'glycol'stearate.'Which'means'we'need'60.3%'of'the'laureth,4.'With'my'math'by'hand,'I'came'up'with'40%'glycol'stearate'and'60%'laureth,4,'so'the'formula'worked!'(And'my'messy'chart'isn't'as'inaccurate'as'one'might'suspect!)''Try'this'with'glycol'distearate'and'polysorbate'80'to'see'if'we'can'get'closer'to'7.'required'HLB'7'


HLB'B'(the'higher'HLB'emulsifier,'polysorbate'80)'='15'HLB'A'(the'lower'HLB'emulsifier,'glycol'distearate)'='1'''''''And'this'is'where'accuracy'is'important.'This'means'we'need'57.1428571%'glycol'distearate'and'42.85741%'polysorbate'80.'If'we'do'the'math'here'we'actually'get'to'7'(do'the'math'yourself'if'you'wish!)'At'57%'glycol'distearate'and'42%'polysorbate'80,'we'managed'to'get'to'6.87,'but'when'we'use'the'formula,'we'get'right'to'7.001.''Now'this'does'mean'if'we're'using'5%'emulsifier'we'll'need'2.85714%'glycol'distearate'and'2.14285714%'polysorbate'80'in'our'product,'and'no'one'has'that'kind'of'scale'(at'least'none'of'us'homecrafter'types).'So'really,'we'have'to'round'up'at'some'point'or'we'll'never'make'a'product!''I'really'encourage'you'to'use'this'formula'as'it'is'more'accurate'and'less'time'consuming'than'creating'a'chart!''


A,LITTLE,INFORMATION,ON,MY,YOUTH,GROUPS,AND,YOUR,CONTRIBUTIONS,All,the,proceeds,from,this,eKbook,will,be,going,to,our,Rated,T,for,Teen,youth,groups,held,at,the,Chilliwack,and,Yarrow,libraries,in,British,Columbia.,We’ve,had,over,12,000,youth,attend,our,craft,group,,board,and,card,games,night,,video,game,club,,and,Japanese,pop,culture,group,since,2005,(about,2,000,per,year,,although,the,number,is,growing,every,year!),,and,every,penny,helps,to,buy,the,supplies,,treats,,and,other,equipment,necessary,to,provide,our,programs.,Our,goal,is,to,ensure,that,every,youth,attending,our,programs,has,the,supplies,necessary,to,create,the,products,in,the,group,,and,we,offer,them,supplies,to,take,home,if,they,show,a,great,interest,in,pursuing,the,craft.,We’ve,managed,to,get,the,boys,interested,in,making,bubble,bath,and,body,wash,as,well,as,stencilling,,chocolate,making,,and,jewellery,designing,,and,thanks,to,your,contributions,for,the,previous,eKbooks,,we,altered,our,Get,Crafty!,program,to,become,How’s,That,Made,to,make,the,boys,more,comfortable.,We’ve,expanded,our,programs,to,include,a,girls’,Rock,Band,Day,and,we’re,trying,to,find,time,in,our,schedules,to,offer,a,monthly,role,playing,game,group.,,,If,you,downloaded,this,book,after,donating,to,our,groups,,thank,you.,Your,contribution,makes,it,possible,to,buy,glue,sticks,,scissors,,pipettes,,fabric,,carrots,,bottles,of,water,,new,games,,and,everything,else,we,need,to,provide,our,programs.,,,If,someone,passed,this,along,to,you,for,free,,please,consider,donating,to,our,programs.,I,won’t,guilt,trip,you,,but,your,donation,could,go,a,long,way,in,encouraging,youth,to,pursue,positive,and,fun,activities!,,,If,you,have,any,questions,at,all,,feel,free,to,write,to,me,,Susan,at,[email protected],for,more,information,or,visit,the,blog,at,http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com,to,learn,what,donating,means,to,the,youth,of,my,community.,,,Happy,formulating!,,


ABOUT,THE,AUTHOR,Susan,Barclay,Nichols,is,a,family,support,worker,living,and,working,in,the,Fraser,Valley,,B.C.,She,stumbled,upon,a,recipe,for,bath,bombs,and,became,obsessed,with,creating,bath,and,body,products,about,six,years,ago.,This,is,when,her,extreme,interest,in,chemistry,began.,(She,liked,chemistry,so,much,,she,married,a,man,named,Nichols!),,,In,2009,,she,started,Point,of,Interest,(http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com),,a,bath,and,body,products,blog,to,share,her,love,of,creating,products,,and,it,somehow,turned,into,a,series,of,four,eKbooks,she,wrote,to,raise,money,for,the,youth,groups,she,and,her,husband,run,at,their,local,libraries.,(The,name,for,the,blog,comes,out,of,her,habit,of,prefacing,comments,with,“Point,of,interest…”_),,Her,favourite,hobbies,–,other,than,creating,bath,&,body,products,–,include,sewing,,collecting,trivia,,criticizing,and,correcting,people’s,grammar,and,spelling,,and,striving,to,achieve,expert,status,on,bass,in,Rock,Band,3.,She,lives,with,her,wonderful,husband,,Raymond,,her,mother,,and,their,adorable,dog,,Blondie.,,,For,more,information,,visit,the,blog,at,http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com.,,,,,

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Formulating lotions

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