Folded Flowers pattern - Geta's Quilting Studio · Folded Flowers pattern 2017 Geta Grama; 18 If you want to make a few flowers like this, you could join them into a composition as

Folded Flowers pattern

Please read all the instructions carefully before starting to make the project.


2017 Geta Grama; www.GetasQuiltingStudio.com 2

Final size of the flowers:

4-Petal Flower: 9½’’ x 9½’’

5-Petal Flower: 9’’ x 9½’’

6-Petal Flower: 9½’’ x 8¾’’

8-Petal Flower: 9’’ x 9’’

http://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/



1. Materials List

For each flower you need fabric for the front and back. These fabrics are bonded together with

fusible web.

• Use quilt weight fabric; make sure there is some contrast between the two fabrics.

• Use tone on tone or small prints. Do not use large prints.

• Do not choose busy prints for both fabrics, this will reduce the contrast between fabrics.

4-petal flower 5-petal flower 6-petal flower 8-petal flower

Front fabric 10’’ x 10’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 20’’

Back fabric 10’’ x 10’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 20’’

Fusible web 10’’ x 10’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 15’’ 10’’ x 20’’

Here are some brands of fusible web: Wonder Under, Vliesoflix, Heat and Bond, Steam a

Seam. If you want to make all 4 flowers, you need 1¼ yard (17’’ wide).




Thread

Neutral or matching thread, 50wt or 40wt.

Applique foot

An open-toe, clear applique foot is highly recommended. You will have a clear view of what

you have to stitch.

Fine permanent marker

2. Preparing the pieces

Decide which flower you want to sew and cut the fabrics and fusible web pieces as shown in

the table below.

4-petal flower 5-petal flower 6-petal flower 8-petal flower

Front fabric 4 x (5’’ x 5’’) 5 x (5’’ x 5’’) 6 x (5’’ x 5’’) 8 x (5’’ x 5’’)

Back fabric 4 x (5’’ x 5’’) 5 x (5’’ x 5’’) 6 x (5’’ x 5’’) 8 x (5’’ x 5’’)

Fusible web 4 x (5’’ x 5’’) 5 x (5’’ x 5’’) 6 x (5’’ x 5’’) 8 x (5’’ x 5’’)

Templates (4⅝’’)

F4 F5 F6 F7

Circle template

I will explain the technique while sewing the 6-petal flower.

These are the fabric and fusible

web pieces.

TEMPLATES

Print out the page #31 and cut

out the templates.

If you plan to make more

flowers, make templates out of

transparent plastic or cardstock.

It is easier to draw around them.




Place the fusible web, rough side down, to the wrong side of

one of the fabric pieces. Press following the manufacturer’s

instructions.

Repeat for the other 5 fusible web pieces and fabric squares of

the same color.

Let the pieces cool.

Peel off the paper backing.

Keep the piece with the right

side down (rough side up) and

add on top a square from the

other color.

Press with the iron to fuse the

two pieces together. Follow the

fusible web manufacturer's

instructions.

Repeat for all the squares,

always pairing squares of

different colors.

Using the circle template, draw the circle on

one of the squares (it doesn’t matter on

which side you mark). Use a fine permanent

marker.

You don't have to mark the circle on all the 6 squares.

Stack 2 or even 3 squares (I

stacked 3), keeping ALL the

edges perfectly aligned. You need

to have the circle drawn only on

the top square.

Keep the edge of squares aligned

with a few clips, as shown.




With scissors, cut out the circles. Make sure you cut

just inside the drawn line, to get rid of the markings.

Once you cut out a small arc, add a clip to keep the

already cut edges together, as shown.

When you finish the circle, all the layers must still be kept

together with clips (this increases the accuracy of the

bottom circles). If one of the circles isn’t accurate , lay the

circle template on it and correct the shape.

Repeat for the other 3 squares.

You now have 6 circles, with different fabrics on the

two sides.

NOTE

If you don’t want raw edges for your flowers,

now it’s the time to zig zag the edges, see the

instructions on page #28.

3. Sewing the flower

Place the F6 template on one of the fabric circles. Keep

the circle with the FRONT side up- it’s a must.

Make sure the point of the template touches the

edge of the circle and the curved edge is nicely

aligned with the circle’s edge .

The red dot on the template indicates the center

of the flower.

NOTE

If you use directional fabrics (like stripes, see the

flower on page #27), make sure you place the

template in the same position on all the circles.




Using the permanent marker, draw along the straight edges

of the template as shown.

You could do this on ALL the templates or see another

idea on page#15.

Take two circles and place them back sides together, aligning the points and the lines of both

circles (I used a pin to match the lines and points).

Use clips to keep the circles together.

Sew along one of the lines.

This seam will not be visible on the

finished flower (in case you don’t

have a matching thread).

Start sewing from the outside edge

toward the intersection point of the

two lines.

Backstitch at the beginning and

end of the seam.

Finger press the seam open, as shown.




In the same way, add the

third circle to the right or

to the left of the sewn pair,

it doesn’t matter.

Match the points (see the

black arrow) and the lines

and keep the edges of

the two circles aligned

with clips.

Make sure you don’t

catch the inner petals in

the stitching.

You have now half of the flower

done.

Repeat these steps and sew the

other half.

Now you have to join the two

halves.

You will join the halves in two

steps: stitch first the circles on

the right (circle#1 and circle #2)

then join the remaining circles

(circle#3 and circle #4).




Place the two halves wrong

sides together. Align the

center points (black arrow),

the outside points (red

arrow) and the edges and

sew on the line.

If you can't reach the exact

center point, it's not a

problem if you finish the

seam a few stitches away

from the center; the center

will be covered with a

button or yo-yo. It's more

important not to catch

the inner petals in the

seam.

Half of the final joining

seam done.

Repeat and join the last

two circles.

Keep everything aligned

with clips (see the black

and blue arrows).

The red arrows shows an

area where the lines

weren’t perfectly aligned

(the seam is not over the

marking line). If the

difference is not too big

(about 1/8’’), it is not a

problem; if it is bigger,

redo the seam.




Your flower should look this way; do not

worry if at this stage it is not flat!

Using a hot iron, press the first petal open. Press the next seam (to the right of the first

seam) open; the left petal of this seam will stay on top of the right petal of the first seam.

Repeat for the other seams.




When the last seam is pressed, in order to have a nice pinwheel of petals, you have to bring

the left petal of the first seam (indicated by the black arrow) over the right petal of the last

seam (indicated by the red arrow).

Press on the back too; if necessary, use steam to make the flower lay flat.

At this stage, your flower should look nice and flat.

If you want, you can consider the flower is done; it has now one inner petal wreath. Or you

could continue in the way described below.

On each of the TOP petals, draw a

line from the intersection point of

two petals (indicated by the black

arrow) to the center of the flower.

Use the permanent marker.

You have to draw 6 lines.




You will join two adjacent petals together, by

sewing on the drawn line.

Fold the piece as shown,

keeping EVERYTHING away

from the stitching (pay

attention to the fold

indicated by the blue

arrow, especially toward

the center).

Keep the seams indicated

by the black arrows

aligned at the outer edge

and at the center.




Seams aligned and kept in place with a

clip.

Start sewing from the outside to

the center.

If you are not able to reach the

center, it's fine, it's actually

better to stop the seam 2-3

stitches away from center (it

makes the pressing of seams

open easier and the center less

bulky). You may also need to lift

the presser foot and help the

work feed under the needle.

All these small petals are stitched.




Press all the seams open.

The flower is done.




4. NOTE about marking the templates on the circles

You can mark the sewing lines only on one

of the circles and attach one circle to the

right and one circle to the left, as shown.

On these two circles you don’t have to

draw the lines.

This method is easier, as you don’t have to

match the lines; all you have to do is to

align the edges of the two circles you want

to join then sew.

In order to add the fourth circle (that

doesn’t have marking lines), you have to

mark the line on the left or right circle. I

chose to mark the circle on the left. Align

the edge of the template with the previous

seam and the curved edge with the circle’s

edge.

Add the fourth circle underneath the third

circle, keeping the outside edges of the two

circles aligned (it is all you need to align).

Sew on the drawn line.

Continue to add circles in this way, until

you close the flower.

Or you could join the circles until you sew half of the

flower. Repeat for the other half then join the halves.

This is the 8-

petal flower.




Here are the 8 lines you have to

draw in order to create the

smaller inner petals.

NOTE

On this flower, pay

attention not to touch with

the marker the edge of the

petal placed on top of the

one you draw on (see the

edge indicated by the red

arrow); if necesarry, lift

that petal until you finish

the drawing.




The finished 8-petal flower

The 4-petal flower

This is the fastest

version.




If you want to make

a few flowers like

this, you could join

them into a

composition as

shown to the left.

The 5-petal flower

Now that the flowers are finished, you could appliqué them onto a bigger background fabric

and join those blocks into a table runner or quilt. You could also make individual blocks and

finish them as pillows or table mats.




5. How to appliqué the flowers

Decide first the size of the background fabric. For my flowers I used 14’’ x 14’’ pieces.

Avoid using large or too busy prints as background; the flower should be the focal

point.

a. Center the flower over the background fabric. For a correct placement, do the

following:

1. Fold the background in half

horizontally and vertically and finger

press the folds (see the red markings).

2. If necessary (if the middle of the

flower isn’t obvious), do the same for

the flower (see the blue markings).

Align the blue markings with the red

ones. Use glue to keep the flower in

place; apply a small amount just inside

the exterior edge.

b. Using a zig zag stitch, secure the

OUTSIDE edge of the flower to the

background fabric.

Carefully remove the excess background from

the back.

Use matching thread and a fine zig- zag stitch

(I used a 1.5 mm length x 2 mm wide stitch).

If you want bold edges, you could use a satin

stitch and even contrasting thread.




c. Secure the inside petals

Begin with the smallest (green)

petals (see the blue dot).

Start sewing from the center to

the tip of the petal (see the red

dot), come back to the center and

repeat until you have sewn all the

petals. You will stitch everything

in one continuous stitching.

Do the same for the bigger

(yellow) petals.

NOTE

You can secure the inner petals

even before sewing down the

outside edge of the flower to the

background fabric (before step a

on the previous page).




6. How to quilt

Join your blocks as desired; I stitched mine into a table runner. Layer the top with batting and

backing.

Stabilize the flowers first.

Start sewing from the center and outline all the inner petals then quilt around the outside

edge of the flower. Stitch just near the edge of the petals and then near the outside edge of

each flower, on the background; if you stitch close enough to the edge, this stitching will be

almost invisible.

Then quilt the background, outside the flowers, as desired.

When the quilting is done, bind the quilt and cover the center of each flower with a flat button

(a small yo-yo works too).

NOTES

1. If you want to anchor the flowers

better, you can stitch down the center seam

of each petal (see the green lines in this

photo). This is useful especially if the flowers

are big and you do a dense quilting on the

background. A high contrast between the

background quilting and the unquilted area

underneath the appliqué flower could cause

problems and you could end up with a quilt

that doesn’t lay flat. Those additional quilting

lines help.

2. When you wash the quilt, you may need to

press the flowers with a hot iron.




7. Finishing the flowers as individual blocks

You can appliqué the flowers on square or rectangular background pieces and finish the blocks

as squares or rectangles.

If you want a different shape, you can finish the 5-petal flower as pentagon, the 6-petal

flower as hexagon and the 8-petal

flower as octagon. Here is how to do

this:

First thing, you need to appliqué the

flower onto a bigger background;

the final shape (pentagon, hexagon

or octagon) will be smaller than the

initial square. Make the quilt

sandwich, secure the flower and

then quilt the background as

desired.

Place the edge of the ruler over the

center seam of one of the big

(green) petals, as shown. With a

permanent marker, mark a point at

the desired distance from the most

outside point of the petal (mine was

2’’ away).

Move the ruler onto the next petal,

place the edge over the center seam

and mark a point at THE SAME

distance (2’’ in my case).




Do this for all the petals. Here is

a picture to make it easier to

understand.

You will mark only the red

points, the black dashed line

shows that all the points are

placed at the same distance

from the edge of the flower.

Then all you have to do is to joint two adjacent points with a line then cut on the lines using a

ruler and rotary cutter.

For this 8-

petal flower,

the final

shape will be

an octagon,

will 8 equal

sides.




And here is the pentagon and hexagon.

8. How to make flowers in any size

At the end of this pattern there are 7’’ templates for bigger flowers. If you need, you can

print the templates (circle + flower) at any reduced size (6’’, as an example) and make

flowers in other sizes. In this case, the circle and flower template have both the same size.

You can use the flower template on circles that are bigger or smaller than the flower

template.

In this case, you have to fold the flower template and the fabric

circle in half, as shown. I marked the fold with a marker to make it more visible; do not

do this on your fabric! Just fold and finger press!

These folded lines will help you position the template in the right place on the circle – exactly on

the center.




Circle bigger than the template

Place the template over the fabric, matching the folds.

Make sure the point of the template touches the edge of the circle.

Use a ruler, place it as shown on the circle and draw along the edge of the ruler.

Circle smaller than the template

Keep the flower template folded in half,

place the fold on the fold of the circle.

Make sure the point of the template touches the edge of

the circle. Keeping the pieces in

place, open the template as shown and draw along the edges.

NOTE

Remember that you start with fabric and fusible web squares and these squares must be 3/8'' bigger than the size of your template.

What is the size of the new flower? About 2x size of the circle (the size of the diameter – the folded line that goes through the

center of the circle). So decide first the size of the flower. If you need a 10’’ flower, use 5’’ circle and flower templates. If you need 5’’ flowers, use 2½’’ templates.




9. Other uses for the flowers

a. If you don’t want to appliqué the flowers on

quilted items, you can use them as they are;

just zig-zag the edges with FINE zig zag stitch

and cover the center. Use them as decorations

(they would look great in Christmas fabrics) or

to embellish gifts.

Another option is to fuse them on

heavyweight interfacing (like Peltex,

Fast2Fuse). This interfacing offers great

support to the raw edges.

b. Applique the flowers on bags. The zig zag

stitch makes the flowers durable and you can

safely wash your bags.

FLOWERS WITH 3D LOOK

If you prefer a 3D look, do not appliqué the

flower; attach it (to a bag, as an example)

with a button. You can remove it easily when

you want to wash the bag and you can wash

the flower separately.

If you have my Amelie and 30 Minute

Shopping Bag patterns, first stitch the bags

(in the size you need) and after that decide

the size of the flower.




10. Flowers without raw edges

If you prefer flowers with finished edges, zig zag the edge of the fabric circles before starting

to assemble the flower. This will protect the edges, minimizing the fraying and making the

flower more durable.

If you want a stiffer flower, use a heavyweight fusible web (most brands have light and heavy

versions).

For the zig zag stitch you could use thread in

any color you want: matching thread or

contrasting thread. I used matching thread for

both sides of the fabric circle.

Use a fine zig zag (I used a 3mm wide, 1 mm

long stitch); a too tight stitching (like satin

stitch) could make the edge look ”wavy” and

this will distort the shape of the circle and the

flower will not be accurate. Always test the

stitching first, using circles made out of the

same fabrics and interfacing.




Enjoy your folded flowers!

Geta

Geta’s website: www.getasquiltingstudio.com

Email Geta: [email protected]

-------------------------------------------------------

Copyright Information: © 2017 Geta Grama

Home sewers may sell handmade items made with this pattern; please give

credit to Geta Grama for the pattern. Mass production is strictly prohibited.

Copying and distributing of this pattern is prohibited.

Thank you for choosing my pattern!

I appliquéd my flowers on bags made using the patterns below.

TEMPLATES ON THE NEXT PAGES

http://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/http://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/mailto:[email protected]://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/product/quick-shopping-bag-patternhttp://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/product/purse-tote-bag-patterns

F4 template4 5/8'’

4-petalflower


5-petalflower


8-petalflower

Copyright 2017 Geta Gramawww.GetasQuiltingStudio.com

Use a ruler to measurethe square to verify thatprintout is correctly sized.

Page 30


6-petalflower

Circle Template

4 5/8'’


Page 31

F4 template7'’

4-petalflower


Page 32

F5 template7'’

5-petalflower


Page 33

F6 template7'’

6-petalflower


Page 34

F8 template7'’

8-petalflower


Page 35

Circle Template

7'’


Page 36

Folded Flowers pattern - Geta's Quilting Studio · Folded Flowers pattern 2017 Geta Grama; 18 If you want to make a few flowers like this, you could join them into a composition as

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