Fjords & Channels Cultural Area (Aysén, an Undiscovered Patagonia)

FJORDS & CHANNELS CULTURAL AREA

$4,396 USD

A few years ago I traveled with a group of friends to the Palena - Queulat Area in the Aysén Region of Chile. We explored the beaches of Raúl MarínBalmaceda and the Puyuhuapi Fjord (amongst other amazing things). Ever since, I had imagined returning to explore the archipela-gos of Patagonia on my own. I dreamed of visiting the Guaitecas, the Chonos and the Huichas Islands, but it was little more than a fantasy until a couple of months ago when my life turned upside down. First, I broke up with my long-time boyfriend; then, two weeks after I was laid-off from the job and finally, two days later, my landlord asked me to vacate my apartment. I just couldn’t seem to catch a break! From one month to the next my life had turned upside down; I had gone from being happy, calm and confident to depressed, vulnerable and empty.

My best friend, Caroline, commented that perhaps it was time to pursue my dream of travel-ing the fjords of Aysén, to re-center myself and to recover my lost energy. She always knows just the right thing to say! Instead of throwing myself a huge pity party, I began to plan an adventure on the other side of the world; a sort of spiritual and emotional redemption.

I cashed out $7,500.00 from my retirement, justifying that if I was going to take a risk, I might as well go all the way. I spent $2,500.00 immediately, on the purchase of a new camera and a pair of lenses. I’ve always loved photography and I thought it was the perfect time to take my hobby a little more seriously. Then, I made my big move, buying a changeable but non-re-fundable airline ticket, from JFK to Castro, the capital of the Chilean Island, Chiloé. I booked the return from Balmaceda, Chile to JFK, for 22 days later. I decided on the “full-flex” option because I had read that traveling in the fjords and channels of Aysén is never 100% sure; there are many factors that can affect dates and plans, including the climate, the availability of seats on the boats, and lots of other unexpected variables. It’s all true; however, I’ve learned that the inconveniences aren’t so serious. You can always disembark at one of the coastal ports along the route and adapt your itinerary, traveling overland.

Next came the dreaded day when I finally stopped by my parents’ house to tell them about all

Details of my expenses: Transportation = $2,200 (Air, Sea, Buses); Accommodation and Food = $1,296 ($54 /day average); Excursions and Souvenirs = $900

24 DAYS

23 NIGHTS 2 TRAVELERS(MY DAD AND I)

EXPENSES(MY PORTION)

Travels through the Fjords and Channels Area - Aysén Region of Chile

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of the wonderful developments taking place in my life (ha-ha) and my plan for dealing with things. My dad took everything calmly and was actually surprisingly supportive of the idea of my adventure BUT…. my mom literally went into shock. “You? Alone? Traveling in a foreign country? Without internet or your beloved iPhone? Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.” I decided it was best to head home and give them a while to get used to the idea. The next day, my dad called me with a proposal: He wanted to travel with me and also spend a couple of days on Jechica Island, near Melinka. A sailing buddy had told him about it years ago, and he had always been curious to visit for himself. Hmmm, traveling the Fjords of Aysén with my dad – not at all what I had been dreaming. But, after considering the idea for a while I decided it was a pretty amazing op-portunity! Traveling halfway around the world, disconnected from modernity, for almost a month – sharing an incredible place and an incredible adventure with my Dad. Of course, I accepted!

Day 1, USA - Santiago – Castro (making our way to Aysén)I had booked my flights to connect through Santiago, directly to Castro, the capital of the Island of Chiloé, to have a cou-ple of days in Chiloé, prior to boarding the boat that travels through the Fjords and Channels of Aysén. I thought it would be good to have a few days to organize and confirm our reservations and get used to the rhythm of the tides and to traveling together. I also wanted to explore a bit and practice with my new camera. We stayed in a cute apart hotel named Mi Palafito Apart & Suite, (www.mipalafitoapart.cl). It was in a great neighborhood, really bohemian, with lots of fun restaurants and cafes and the suite was well-adorned and inexpensive ($30,000 CLP per night).

Day 2: Castro to Quellón, with a side trip to Chiloé National ParkIn the morning, my dad needed to connect with the world back home and handle some last minute business with his partners before disappearing for so long. I decided to go out and explore Chiloé National Park alone. You can go by bus from the P. Aguirre Cerda terminal and it gave me a great op-portunity to experiment with my camera walking along the trails that meander through the forest and along the beach. In the afternoon, I met my dad in the Castro terminal to take the bus to Quellón. We stayed at the hotel Tierra del Fuego (www.hoteltierradelfuego.cl), due to its proximity to the offices of Naviera Austral, the company that managed the ferries.

Day 3: Quellón - Melinka, first leg of the Cordillera Route (Departure - 23:00)First and foremost, I should clarify that the Cordillera Ferry Route which travels within the Fjords and Channels of Aysén, operated by Naviera Austral, is NOT a tourist route. Set-

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tlement in this area began in the mid 1800’s and has always focused on the extraction of natural resources, like cypress wood which was used to build the railroads in Chile, and of course, seafood: locos and hake (merluza), among other types. More recently much of the waters and inlets have been exploited for the production of salmon, today, one of Chile’s largest exports. Thus, maritime navigation has always been prioritized for the movement of workers and equipment, rather than on the movement of travelers. Workers come to the fjords from other parts of Chile, like Chiloé, Valdiv-ia, Osorno and Puerto Montt and basically live as nomads, migrating between jobs and islands, living away from their families for months or even years. Sometimes, their families also migrate, making monumental efforts and sacrifices to be together. Understanding that this meant we were not the number one priority, we spent the entire day going back and forth between the hotel and the offices of Naviera Aus-tral, confirming our passages in the Jacaf, confirming the time of departure, watching the clock and, finally, “in accordance with their policies” appearing at the terminal to wait, in per-son, the ultimate 2 hours before our scheduled departure. Despite all, the ferry left an hour late - apparently a common issue, based on the comments of other passengers. My dad was a perfect gentleman about it all; in fact, the only emotion he showed was towards finally beginning the adventure. I was over it, by this time. The almost 4 days of travel leading up to this moment were taking their toll and I took a motion sickness pill, covered the eyes with a pair of eye-shades, put on my earphones and in 2 minutes, Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Day 4: Melinka and the treasure of Ñancúpel the pirateThe trip lasted all night and I woke up at five in the morning with the horn of the ferry. We were reaching Melinka! The sun still hadn’t appeared on the horizon and the houses and buildings were little more than colored blocks in the distance. It seemed like the approach to the port took forever! Finally, we were able to disembark, recover our luggage, and find our way to the hostel. It was right next door! It was called Ruca Chonos (067) 2431608, and I would describe it as much more that hostel; in reality it is a huge wooden historic hotel, beautiful and full of atmosphere and inviting details. I was RE-ALLY glad my dad has insisted that I arrange an early check-in to coincide with our arrival – it would have been miserable to walk around with all our luggage waiting for the 3:00 pm normal check-in time. I was still pretty knocked out from the motion-sickness medicine and opted for a few hours more of sleep. (By the way, I was really glad I had brought that medicine - my dad said the boat tossed around quite a bit when we moved through the Corcovado Channel and that most passengers had that “sea-sick” look.) I went straight to bed and woke up just in time for the last breakfast service at 10:00. At breakfast I discovered I had been ditched; my dad had found a captain who would take him out for some fish-ing. So, on my own, I struck up a conversation with Señora Lore, my waitress, and soon discovered my goal for the day:

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find the legendary cave where the pirate Ñancúpel had long ago buried his treasure. I could solve all my problems with a wealth of silver and gold! ;). Señora Lore told me that local pirate Ñancúpel had sailed the waters of Las Guaitecas almost 200 years ago, stealing ships and killing hundreds of people. Popular legend believed that there was still hidden treasure in some remote corner of the island. I just had to find it! I headed off in the direction of the beach but my trea-sure hunt ended before it began. Walking up the main street of Melinka I practically ran into a tiny old woman with a huge collection of hand woven reed shopping bags. (It’s a little hard to explain; they were shaped like bags but woven from reed, like baskets.) Anyway, I apologized for almost knocking her over and she was so gracious that I just couldn’t resist seeing if my Spanish was improving by asking why she had so many of these unique bags. She explained that she had been making them as long as she could remember, long before there were modern day plastic versions, and that she was going to collect luche, a seaweed that local people used in their cooking. The word luche immediately brought up mem-ories of my last trip to Aysén, when Señora Pancha made us her Lamb and Luche Cazuela in her rural inn, Mirador del Río, alongside the Palena River. It was delicious! My curiosity took over and I asked if I could accompany her and help her. She (Señora Edilia) looked at me a little surprised and said: “Well, just so you know, this isn’t the best time of year for finding luche, but, if you want to join me and learn how I search, I will teach you how the ancients taught us to collect luche 60 years ago”. Oh yeah! We headed off together in the direction of the beach. So my treasure of the day was luche, or Porphyra columbina, to be a little more scientific. Walking through town with Doña Edilia, I felt like I was taking part in something truly unique and magical. As we walked, she told me stories of her 12 children and how things were “back in the days” when Melinka was nothing more than mountains and sea, and how her husband had died many years ago in a diving accident at work. He was a shellfish diver. Once we arrived at the beach, Edilia taught me to collect luche, just as she had promised. You harvest the reeds with care, not cut-ting all the way at the base, which can be really tough and full of sand. During the morning, we were able to fill 6 bags, and of course, I helped her to carry them home. When we got everything up onto the porch, she invited me to come back in the afternoon to learn how to make the “cakes” which are typically the form in which the luche is sold. I went back to my hostel to meet my dad for lunch and he invited me to explore the other town on the island, Repollal, but he seemed neither surprised nor angry when I explained that I already had plans to help my new friend. After lunch I went back to Señora Edilia’s home and she instructed me to care-fully wash the luche leaves, first with a mixture of water and salt, and then with fresh water. After washing several times, we steamed the luche very slowly; it was similar to cooking seafood. When it was ready, we put it in a special mold and baked it slowly in the oven, on a low heat, so it formed a sort of loaf, or cake. Señora Edilia explained to me that in the Guaitecas, luche is used in various recipes, including empana-

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das, sauces, stews, rice, and salads. I went back to the hostel to show my dad the day’s treasures: a couple of shells, lots and lots of photos, my very own luche cake, and the address of my new friend Edilia. I hadn’t found Ñancúpel’s treasure but in my heart, I knew that this was much better.

Day 5: Side trip to Jechica IslandAn old sailing buddy of my dad had spoken about the Jechica Island Marine and Refuge (www.islajechica.cl), in the south of Chile a thousand times, and now, with me as his excuse, Dad organized a visit to this tiny paradise. It probably has the most luxurious accommodations available in the Guaitecas; the place where sailboats and yachts stop to relax during their voyages around the world. We boarded their “water taxi” and in three and a half hours we arrived to what was definitely, another reality. Jechica Island consists of 7,200 hectares of lush green vegetation, hiking trails and tons of amenities and luxuries; especially considering we were on a tiny island in the Pacific. We left our things in the hut, enjoyed a gourmet lunch and in the afternoon, took one of their star excursions: whale watching! It turns out that the Corcovado Gulf and the waters northwest of Chiloé are recognized by the international scientific community as the area with the highest rate of blue whale sightings in the entire southern hemisphere. It is said that after the height of the whaling in-dustry there were not more than 3,000 of these amazing creatures in all of the world’s oceans (shocking!), but that this area alone has an estimated population of more than 300! The blue whale is the largest animal to ever exist on earth, growing up to 30 meters long and weighing up to 200 tons. As a reference, you know the double length buses, where they join two together? Well, those urban giants have a total length of 18 meters, a little over half that of our friend, the blue whale. And so far as weight goes, one blue whale is equal in weight to around 40 average sized African elephants (the largest land animal)! In spite of them being giants, they aren’t so easy to spot. Our guide explained that the area is very extensive, the sea is always stormy and the climate very complicated. Plus, because they are so huge, they are not as acrobatic as the rest of the whales; they don’t jump and play so it is very rare to see their tails and fins. We had faith and decided to undertake “mission impossible” anyway. Good decision. We had barely been navigating for half an hour when he saw an enormous blow (that’s what you call it when a whale breathes through its blow hole), a few meters from the boat, followed by screams of joy from the crew members and guests. Our friend, the blue whale, was right there in the shadows, a few meters from the boat. We listened to its thunderous breathing and watched it appear and disappear hundreds of times as it moved out to sea through the waters of the Corcovado Gulf (in reality, we were only able to see a tiny part of it: its dorsal fin). I even captured a few good shots, although in my excitement it was a challenge! Back in our hut, I napped for a good while. I think I was as dizzy on ground at this point as I was on water; with so much getting in and out of boats. Even when I was still everything around me seemed

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to be moving. At dusk, we took a walk through the forest, listening to all the birds and afterwards we had a great dinner, before turning in for night and sleeping like angels.

Day 6: Back to MelinkaI woke up a little worried about being so far from Melinka, because we needed to confirm our ferry arrangements for our 4:00 am departure the following day. But my father was wearing an expression of pure peace, something that I rarely see from him, so, I put my worries aside, enjoyed a delicious breakfast and afterwards, a walk through the forest. When we returned my dad went to the office to pay the account and book another trip for next year, this time with my mom. We had another delicious lunch, and set sail back to Melinka. I was glued to the window with the hope of seeing more whales, but I didn’t even spot a seabird, only the blue of the ocean. Guess we used all of our luck the day before! We arrived at 17:00 with several hours before our departure. We toured around town a while, photographing the church with its emblematic tejuelas (hand crafted wooden shingles), the sculptures of the pincoya (mermaid) and the rest of the Chonos Waterfront. Then we walked over to the Alvarez Estero to see the sculptures of the sea lions. For dinner we tried local fare at the Fogón de Rigel; sierra fish stew. Then we returned to the hostel because my dad, wise as always, had booked the rooms through the evening, so we could rest, even though the boat was set to depart en the early hours of the morning. I slept until around 2:30 am, but after that, forget it! Every 15 minutes I was looking out the window to see if the Jacav had docked. It appeared around 4:00 and made our way down to the dock.

Day 7: In route to… Raúl MarínBalmaceda, Santa Domingo, Melimoyu and, finally, Puerto Gala.We set sail more or less at the scheduled time and at 8:30 am, we arrived in Raúl Marín Balmaceda. I had really great memo-ries of Raúl Marín from my previous trip in Aysén and I would have loved to disembark and show the town to my Dad, but if I wanted to visit the other places on my list, we had to keep going. After half an hour, we were back on our course to the south, en route to Santo Domingo and Melimoyu, two places so small that there was more port than people. During the day, I talked a lot with my dad… about life, family, dreams and regrets. It was so nice to have this time with him and even nicer, considering the landscapes and sights. We sat on the top deck under the canopy and every so often, we were treated to visits from sea lions, dolphins and lots and lots of seabirds, like gulls, pelicans and cormorants. We spent a lot of hours on the seas that day, before finally reaching Puerto Gala. There is no actual “port” in Puerto Gala, so the Jacaf puts anchor offshore and passengers are shuttled to shore in small boats. Our host at Hospedaje Macalu, Don Mario Acevedo, was waiting for us and we shared a few mates while he told us stories about the “gold rush” days in Gala, when thousands of people descended on the area to fish for Loco

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(a shellfish). At that time, there was a Loco craze and the markets went wild – it was like a gold rush, but of shellfish (hmmm). Anyways, people showed up overnight and started establishing their claims and going about the work of the hour – so much so that for quite a while, they just lived in make do shelters crafted from wooden post frames and covered with nylon. It wasn’t until much later that they were able to build proper houses and walkways – in fact the town wasn’t for-mally established until 1999! His wife, Marbi, and his daughter, Marita, prepared a delicious afternoon snack (called onces here and often eaten in place of a heavy dinner), and we all ate together. Afterwards, we showed them pictures and told them a bit about all of our adventures so far. (Keep in mind, my Spanish still needs work so, hopefully they could under-stand everything – they said so anyways, and of course the pictures were worth 1000 words each, right?)

Day 8: A SPECTACULAR day in Puerto GalaSun, warmth, a light breeze - What luck! During breakfast, I told Señora Marbi of my desire to see the famous nylon hous-es that Don Mario had told us about. Neither she nor my dad seemed to share my enthusiasm but she made a call on her radio to let her husband know that we wanted a boat ex-cursion in the afternoon. On the route to the island with the nylon houses Don Mario stopped at another island, named “Chita”, located about 15 minutes from Gala. He showed us an ancient Chono cemetery that coexists alongside little shrines for various saints and modern grave markers. The Chonos were a nomadic canoe people, who traveled from island to island in their hand carved canoes called “dalcas” to gather shellfish, fish and even hunt sea lions. My dad final-ly woke up; this was a thousand times more interesting to him than the nylon. Afterwards, Mario took us to a beautiful beach called “Beach of the Raleighs”. (It was named this be-cause a group of Raleigh International program participants (www.raleighinternational.org), had used this regularly as a camping area.) There was a place here that Dario wanted to show us. He explained that it was a “fishing corral” used by the canoe peoples and in an excellent state of conservation. We searched for roughly carved stones and other tools that were used by the Chonos. My dad was the “winner” with the discovery of more than 20 artifacts, but we left everything EXACTLY as we found it because as Mario explained, these treasures are a precious part of local heritage and something that connects us all. So, we took only photos (tons), and the memories of an amazing place. We were heading back to Gala when Don Mario FINALLY stopped in a sector where there were nylon houses. I approached one that was com-pletely abandoned except that inside there was still a wood stove made from an old oil drum and an old tea kettle that was totally black from the smoke. The “house” was much smaller than I imagined and I was pretty taken aback that people could live so simply, not so different from the Chonos in my opinion. When we had docked and were walking back to the hospedaje, Don Mario told us about a beach near Gala where we could camp the next day. Surprisingly my dad

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seemed to really like the idea; as long as the weather agreed to cooperate, he was “in”.

Day 9: Camping in Bonita Beach, Puerto GalaThe vacation gods were in good spirits and rewarded us with another beautiful day! My dad and I set off with Don Mario for a short 15 minute boat trip from Puerto Gala to Playa Bonita, one of the favorite sites for inhabitants of the area. The beach is a tiny paradise; white sand skirting an evergreen forest that is dominated by a waterfall towering from at least 30 meters above. It is protected from the wind and the big waves; an absolutely ideal place to spend a day of picnicking and camping. Don Mario said he would return for us the following day and was off, leaving us alone on a deserted beach, an absolute contrast to our normal world and lives. We walked through the forest looking for the overlook that he had mentioned, but we never found it. It didn’t matter since everywhere we looked we had excellent views of the channel and its islands. My dad fished for hours and caught our dinner. I wrote in my journal a good while and read and even built a sand castle like when I was a girl. We enjoyed an amazing sunset, followed by a night illuminated by sea sparkle (noctiluca scintillans). It was amazing! With the movement and the rubbing of the water, the plankton becomes phos-phorescent emitting an incredible show of bioluminescence.

Day 10: The mysteries of the ChonosIn the morning, Mario reappeared more or less at the time we’d agreed, accompanied by Thiaren Jofré, the daughter of the owner of the Estero Sur, which, they explained, was another important Chono site. The plan? Continue our ar-chaeological experiential education with a visit to the Estero. We set off for an hour of navigation through the Jacaf Chan-nel, followed by a 30 minute forest hike ending at a rocky cliff wall. There were large fallen rocks from some ancient slide all around us and a collapsed cave where 16 bodies had been found a few years ago. The remains had subsequently been dated and were more than 2,000 years old! Thiaren ex-plained to us that the Chonos lived in small shelters made of tree branches covered with leather or in caves like these. My dad was fascinated and I felt a bit of awe. I guess I felt hum-bled knowing that I was standing in the same place where men, women and children had lived so many years ago. What had life been like for them, living in this harsh environment, so many centuries ago? I could barely conceive it. After looking around a bit, we ate a snack on the beach and slowly made our way back to Puerto Gala.

Day 1 1: Departing Puerto Gala in route to Puerto CisnesMy dad was fascinated with the Chonos and asked me to accompany him to visit Thiaren in her house because he had more questions and needed me to help with the translation. We has to be pretty careful navigating the boardwalks lead-ing to her house, as the boardwalks of Puerto Gala are not in

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great condition, but soon, we were seated around her stove, sharing a round of mate and great conversation. Turns out that the Chonos need a lot more research – hey all you bud-ding archaeologists, get your funding together and get going! My dad will volunteer to read all of your books (once they are translated into English). We left for Puerto Cisnes aboard the Jacaf around 14:30 and arrived around 19:30. As we ar-rived, we saw some kayakers coming, finishing their day, and my dad (still inspired by the canoe people) thought it would be a great idea to check into doing a tour.

Day 12: The local treasures of Puerto CisnesWe stayed in the Hosteria El Guairao ([email protected]), owned by Señora Norma, and in the morning I awoke to one of my favorite sounds, rain on a tin roof, something which is almost impossible to hear in the city. It was the per-fect morning to stay in bed, reading and listening to the rain, so guess what? I did. At 11:30 my dad knocked on the door to tell me it was time to go out and check out the town. I took a lightning speed shower, donned my rain clothes and we went out in search of food. We found a cute cafe called Patagoni-K Mate & Expeditions, for küchen and cappuccinos. As luck would have it, the cafe also offered kayak tours ([email protected]) so, as my dad had wished, we were able to arrange a tour for the following two days, weather permit-ting. The rain had slowed to a soft drizzle and we decided to walk around town for a while. We happened upon a local brewery, Finisterra (www.cervezafinisterra.cl), and with-out hesitation, walked in to check things out. The founder’s daughter, Carolina Saavedra, gave us a grand tour, including a sample and we chose a mixed six-pack to take back to the inn. But, we couldn’t resist another visit to Patagoni-K, as we’d seen pizzas on their menu and felt compelled to see if Chilean pizza was the same as NYC! We tested a version called “Cerro Gilberto”, with tomato sauce and slices, sau-téed chicken, cheese and oregano. Different but delicious, and a good tip to remember because they also deliver to area lodging (067) 22346584.

Days 13 - 14: Kayaking through the rains of the Patagonian Fjords and ChannelsThe forecast was for rain the whole week, but without high winds, so we decided to kayak, rain and all. Juanita Ruiz (Jua-ny), the owner of Patagoni-K made sure we were prepared with neoprene wet-suits, gloves, boots, windbreakers, rain hats and PFDs (life-jackets). We used our own rain pants over the wet-suit and a polypropylene base layer. I can hap-pily report that will all this “gear” we stayed warm (not dry, but warm all the same). We descended the Cisnes River for a few kilometers to its outlet in a beautiful lagoon, called Escondida, with the guidance of Juany and our other guide, Cristian Salin. We explored the lagoon, discovering great hidden beaches and glacial valleys and then set up camp at one end where Juany and Cristian had a refuge that offered great protection from the rain. They blew us away with the

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evening meal, a delicious salmon cooked in the embers of the campfire. We toasted the occasion with part of our “Finis-terra” six-pack and after dinner Cristian surprised us with a liquor made from local berries and herbs, called Gotas del Sol, that he manufactures and sells in artisan batches, all over the Region ([email protected]). The next day, we ate breakfast and paddled back through the lagoon and into the delta, where the rapids of the Copa River feed in. Later, we returned to the Cisnes River and descended for almost 3 hours to its delta with the Puyuhuapi Channel which returned us to Puerto Cisnes. Truly a spectacular route! We saw a lot of birds, like chucaos, a caiquen family and a king-fisher. The river is wide open in this sector and not very tech-nical, therefore, I felt pretty good even though I considered myself a beginner. Plus, Juanita and Cristian taught us a lot. They have years of experience in navigation and sea kaya-king in the area, and are certified in kayaking, outdoor skills and “leave no trace”. Juany explained that she had learned many of her kayak skills in a course taught by ACA instruc-tor and Regional Kayak Guide, Rolando Toledo, the owner of Aguahielo Expeditions (www.aguahielo.cl). The course included various techniques for paddling, nautical chart read-ing, minimum impact camping, emergency management and a thousand other things. I would love to take a course like that! She also told us about the local Festival del Pesca’o Frito that is held in Puerto Cisnes every year during one of the last few weeks of January. They have music, crafts, a com-munity fish fry and a “minga”, which is a special tradition that originated in the Island of Chiloé. In Cisnes, the municipality chooses a family of meager resources to give a house. They build it in the weeks leading up to the festival and then, the day of the feast, they raise it up onto a giant raft, to move by sea to the main town docks, accompanied by a big floating parade. When they arrive, the whole town (and all of the visitors) tow the house through town with huge ropes (and wheels) until they reach the site where it is placed on its foundation and awarded to its new family. What a great tra-dition – I would love to participate some year! Arriving at the lodge, we had a message that our boat was running ahead of schedule and we needed to be ready much sooner than an-ticipated because the climate was expected to worsen. We needed to be ready to leave at 7:40 am the next morning!

Day 15: Off to “unplug” in Puerto GaviotaWe were ready and waiting at the docks at 7:40 am, just like we had been told, but in the end, we did not leave un-til 11:30. My dad was pretty frustrated but, today I was in a Zen state and remembered the saying that I had learned during my previous trip to Aysén, “he who hurries in Patago-nia, loses time”. This was definitely not the smoothest trip aboard the Jacaf; the seas were rough and I was happy to have my motion sickness medicine. On the positive side, we didn’t arrive in the middle of the night as was originally sched-uled; instead we set anchor around 3:00 pm, which meant we could water-taxi in and find our accommodations with plenty of daylight. Puerto Gaviota is definitely the real deal

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and NOT a tourist destination. It is a working fishermen’s vil-lage located within the Puyuhuapi Channel and, in the words of my father, more like an “anti-destination”. There are no public services, not even a health post, no souvenir shops, no internet, no cells, no hotels… you get the picture. What there IS in Puerto Gaviota is 100% authenticity! People are who they are, no pretense, just hard work and simple plea-sures. To arrange your stay in Puerto Gaviota, you have to call in advance to the community’s satellite phone to advise of your arrival (562) 19629586. The phone is located in one of the food markets and when they answer, you explain the dates and what you need and then they will organize your accommodation. It’s a bit of a leap of faith for people used to www.hotels.com! We chose to stay in the Residencial Isla Magdalena, managed by Señora Galicia Saldivia. Have you ever heard of a “home-stay”? Staying in a residencial is basically the same thing. You sleep in bedrooms in the same house as the family, share the same bathroom, eat together and are treated pretty much like a member of the family. If you prefer more privacy there are also some cabins in town. We wanted to understand what life was like in a place that was so disconnected from modernity and a residencial gave us a first-hand perspective. Logistics aside, I loved our visit to Puerto Gaviota. It was the place where I was most able to disconnect from my city life and spending so much time with my dad was a gift I will always treasure.

Day 16: Bad weather and good surprises in Puerto GaviotaWe awoke to the sound of driving rains and lots of wind; the famous weather of the Patagonian fjords had decided to finally join us. What could we do? The truth is, not much. People here live with the rhythms of the weather and the sea 24/7, and when bad weather comes… it’s time to stay put. Truth be told, we were ready for a rest after 14 days of travel! Both of us slept in this morning and when we finally showed up in the kitchen, I felt a little embarrassed because we had missed the breakfast hour. Not to worry, Señora Galicia took it all in stride. We were sitting in her kitchen drinking mate when my father surprised us all with an offer to cook lunch (I’ve never seen my dad cook something if it doesn’t involve a grill!). He told us that he wanted to prepare a recipe he had learned after college when he had backpacked through Spain. He only asked for four things from Galicia: 1) use of the beautiful earthenware casserole pot we had noticed on the shelf, 2) 10 portions of fresh Austral Merluza (hake), 3) 1/2 a cup of fish broth (something that all the kitchens in Puerto Gaviota always have on hand) and 4) a batch of homemade tortas fritas. We would go to purchase the other ingredients in the nearby shop. Señora Galicia graciously accepted our offer explaining that the casserole dish had been hand-craft-ed in the small town of Puerto Ibáñez, along the shores of giant General Carrera Lake, and that she would be happy to see it in use.

So, here’s the recipe for Merluza Stew that my dad taught

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me that day in Puerto Gaviota in the middle of a Patagonian “nor’easter” (which I guess would be a “southwester”).

Ingredients: 10 portions of Merluza, 6 cloves of garlic, 1 can of peas (could also be frozen or fresh, if you have access), 200 ml of white wine, 100 ml of fish broth, 4 tablespoons of chopped parsley, salt, 2 tablespoons of flour, 6 tablespoons of olive oil, 5 hard-boiled eggs.

Instructions: The important thing about this recipe was hav-ing fresh fish like the merluza that Señora Galicia shared in Puerto Gaviota. Clearly merluza should be your goal, but if you aren’t so lucky, you could substitute other flaky, white-fish, as well. Cut the fish into thick slices, about 3 -4 cm each, rinse well and dry with a paper towel. It is best to use a large clay pot for cooking this dish because it will cook slower and it will give you a unique taste. Sauté the sliced merluza on both sides and set aside. Hard-boil the eggs. Allow to cool and then cut into slices. Peel the garlic cloves and mince very, very fine. Wash and chop the parsley. Place the pan over medium heat and incorporate the oil and the garlic, sautéing until it is lightly browned. Stir in the flour and cook for ap-proximately 30 seconds to form a roux. (If you like a thicker sauce, add a little more flour, if you want it to be thinner and smoother, use less flour.) Before the roux turns brown, incorporate the white wine using a wooden spoon. Then add the hot fish stock and salt to taste. Boil for a minute and add the chopped parsley. Incorporate the sliced fish and the peas. Allow the fish to cook for about three minutes and turn. Meanwhile, constantly stir the broth to make sure the sauce thickens and does not become lumpy. Within five minutes of having turned the fish, your stew will be ready. Serve two slices per portion and cover with the green sauce and sliced hard-boiled eggs. Serve with tortas fritas and a salad of grat-ed raw carrot, salt, lemon and vegetable oil. Delicious! And on that day it was truly THE PERFECT LUNCH – a Patago-nian “southwester” that I will never forget!

Day 17: Puerto Gaviota, the calm after the stormWe didn’t sleep much last night for fear that the wind would carry the house away. Instead, shortly before dawn it car-ried the storm away; we awoke to a day of calm seas and sun. My dad wanted to learn more about the fishing in the area and was able to accompany two local fishermen, Don Heriberto Sanchez, the captain of the Mazareno II, and his partner Jorge, in their day’s work of “stalling and hauling”. (I don’t know much about fishing, especially in Spanish, but I believe that’s what they said.) I also didn’t have much interest in going out to sea after all that wind so I decided to walk to nearby Puerto Amparo along a local trail that is almost taken over by the dense vegetation all around. Puerto Gaviota is home to the only Valdivian type forest and the greatest plant diversity of the whole Region. Señora Galicia walked with me to show me the way and explained in full detail the names of each plant and the story of how in summer, the whole town convenes at the soccer field at the end of the trail, for days of sport and fun. When my dad returned from fishing, he told

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me about all the birds and sea lions that he saw and of course, I wanted to see them for myself, so we organized a boat ex-cursion with Don Luis Alvarez for the next day.

Day 18: The wonderful marine wildlife of the Maria Isabel Islets. It was an amazing visit to the Maria Isabel Islets with Luiz; the first one we approached was home to what seemed like mil-lions of birds; pelicans, cormorants and gulls were gathered in H-U-G-E quantities! On another of the islets we watched hundreds of sea lions resting on the rocks and playing around in the sea. Don Luis explained to us the importance of main-taining a safe and respectful distance (50 meters), but with my new zoom I could get all the details; close-ups to the pups, yawning and scratching their backs, and the angry ex-pressions of the male adults as they postured for position. Watch out National Geographic, I might be offering some competition with these photos. Or… we could negotiate a contract. (Ha-ha)

Day 19: Heading to Huichas IslandsDaybreak was beautiful so we got up early to walk the trail to Puerto Amparo together. We took a picnic and relaxed to the natural rhythms of the simple life. After only a few days in Puerto Gaviota, we already felt like part of Seño-ra Galicia‘s family, so we stopped by the store to buy some special cookies and fruits to contribute to the onces in the afternoon. We felt a bit of nostalgia as we shared this last evening meal together. Would we ever see or talk to our new friends again? It was difficult to promise to stay in touch knowing that there is only one satellite phone in the whole community and let’s face it, the great intentions we had of hand-writing and mailing letters were not very likely to be realized! It really is difficult to conceive how people commu-nicate without cell phones, email, Facebook and WhatsApp. We sailed at 22:00, one hour earlier than scheduled, with a completely calm sea. We arrived in Puerto Aguirre in the Huichas Islands at 1:00 am, and there was not a soul in the streets, but I noticed immediately that Puerto Aguirre was much more developed, almost a city compared with Puerto Gaviota. We had reserved lodging in el Hostal Don Beña (09) 93182392, and despite the hour, Don Bernardino Balboa was awake and waiting for us. Hello and good night!

Day 20: Bring on the rainwater! It rained softly and constantly all night and we slept like angels, ultra relaxed by the rhythmic melody on the roof, especially after the ferry’s early morning arrival. Imagine our surprise to learn that in the Huichas Islands there was no potable water, only rainwater, which thankfully, showered down almost ev-ery day. A Señora brought a pail of water for each of us and we adapted as best we could to the idea of taking a sponge bath – I was right to call this trip an adventure. At my Father’s urging, after breakfast we called the airline, LAN and took advantage of having bought “full-flex” fares. We extended

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our trip by one day and then arranged to stay in a top-shelf inn in Puerto Aysén, where we could take a final “rest” after our vacation (ha-ha) and absorb a bit of the reverse culture shock of returning to the concrete jungle. Affairs in order, we set out to walk Conaf’s, La Poza Trail, that Don Beña had suggested. It was super easy to find and follow because it is paved with white crushed shells. It winds through the Island’s evergreen forest and has a lot of information panels on flora and fauna. When we got to the pond, we settled into one of the Conaf quinchos to prepare coffee and a snack. We were joined by some large caracaras, a type of falcon, who posed patiently for our pictures. My dad was able to approach them and get close-ups and they didn’t even flinch; they must have been accustomed to people. We relaxed there most of the afternoon, playing around with the camera, taking photos of birds and a million different ferns and trees. We watched an otter swimming and fishing and celebrated his success when he came to the shore and went up to sit on a rock and eat his lunch. He finished his fish and began to play a game, sort of like hide and seek – but it was all him. He would come out, sit for a while, pretend to discover us and scurry away with fright. Then after a few minutes, the whole routine would start again; come close, sit on a rock, discover us and run for cover. So cute! After a while two dolphins appeared off the shore and accompanied us for the rest of our time in the overlook, coming and going in search of fish. Clearly, like the otter and the falcons, they were not concerned by our presence. As we were heading back, it started to rain very hard and we were soaked within a couple of minutes. Luckily, it was a quick walk back to the hospedaje and Don Beña had a roaring fire in the wood-stove so the house was warm and cozy. We changed into dry clothes and thoroughly enjoyed his wife’s home-cooked dinner before turning in.

Day 21: Exploring Puerto AguirreThe rain had paused so we decided to go for a walk around Puerto Aguirre to check out the local architecture, the docks and the artisans’ shops. I fell in love with a pair of wonderful wooden tables and thought seriously of trying to ship one home but then I remembered, I had no home (ha-ha), proba-bly just as well. The town was quaint and almost everywhere there was another wonderful view of the archipelago, nearby islands, and fjords. It must have been hard to sit in the school and not daydream of being out within those landscapes. After lunch we walked up to a lookout point at the top of Puerto Aguirre. Another beautiful view! You can see all of the islands sprinkled within the fjords. The only thing miss-ing was a rainbow (I’ve become a little bit of a fanatic), but that would have meant it was raining and I was glad to have the break. On the way back, we stopped to organize a final kayak excursion for the following day (Pachanca Kayak; (09) 92163339); and passed by the corner bakery, Panadería mi Rincón, for a küchen which we bought to surprise Don Beña and his wife. They worked so hard to keep on top of their hospedaje, feeding and cleaning for the salmon farm workers who were their regular guests. They invited us to join them

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for onces and we happily shared küchen and tea.

Day 22: A few final island adventuresWe woke up very early, ready to learn about the other town on the island, Caleta Andrade. It’s much flatter and more open than Puerto Aguirre, with a nice beach and to our sur-prise, a thriving artisan ship-building enterprise. Don Juan Gueten Perez was happy to explain that he had begun build-ing wooden boats at the age of 13 in his hometown on the is-land of Chiloé; a craft which he has continued throughout his life. He moved to Caleta Andrade twelve years ago, because he felt that these islands were the ideal place for his work. He had access to plenty of good wood, which was super expensive in other areas. He preferred to work in Cypress de las Guaitecas, for its durability and moisture resistance. Apparently his work was well respected, because he showed us several boats and sailboats in progress, commissioned by captains throughout the Region. After talking with him for a while, we realized that it was time to go for our final kayak-ing trip, with local operator, Christopher Cerda. We toured around the small canals between the islands and we saw dol-phins and lots of seabirds. Back in Puerto Aguirre, we had a quick dinner and went to prepare our things. The ferry was scheduled to depart at 2:00 am (seriously, who designs these schedules!?!); needless to say, we slept very little.

Day 23: Readjusting to life on shoreWe made our last EARLY morning ferry departure, and set-tled down to sleep aboard the Jacaf, which, by this point, was like a second home. When we arrived in Puerto Chacabuco there was a bus waiting for us to transport us to nearby Puer-to Aysén, where we had rooms reserved in Patagonia Green (www.patagoniagreen.cl). We ate a small but delicious breakfast snack and climbed into our incredibly comfy beds in our warm and cozy rooms that were ready and waiting for us when we arrived. We decided to nominate the owner, Señora Isabel McKay for sainthood (or at least write a great review for Trip Advisor)! After sleeping a good while, we fi-nally showered and ventured out to tour Puerto Aysén. It’s an interesting place, one of the busiest ports of the southern cone and capital of the Region until the late 1960s. But the massive deforestation and wildfires that occurred in Aysén during this period of history produced giant floods and land-slides that had devastating consequences for Puerto Aysén. In May of 1966, a huge storm carried so many sediments down river to this port that large boats could no longer en-ter. Afterwards everything changed; the port was moved 14 km west to Puerto Chacabuco (where we arrived), and the capital was moved to its current location in Coyhaique. The fate of Puerto Aysén was changed forever. We toured the town center and had lunch in town at the Firefighters Cafe-teria (Casino de Bomberos), where they raise money for the volunteer squad by serving a faithful clientele HUGE plates of yummy local food. In the afternoon it was time to finish some journal entries, organize pictures, catch up on Facebook, nap

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and then, a bittersweet farewell dinner with my dad. We talked a lot about our memories of the trip and how awe-some the adventure had been. We both agreed that this part of the world is truly A-M-A-Z-I-N-G and started dreaming of our next visits. My dad had already arranged a dream va-cation to Jechica Island with my mom so I decided that my goal would be to rebuild my life and my savings account so that I would be in the position to come back and explore the territory around the area of General Carrera Lake where that amazing earthenware casserole dish had been made.

Day 24: Chao for now, Aysén! The shuttle for Balmaceda was arriving early so we had a quick breakfast, bid farewell to Señora Isabel and in the course of 24 hours, traveled from the calm of Puerto Aysén to the madness of Santiago, and then back to the states. I would miss Aysén but I knew the trip had been perfect. I had discovered a passion for photography and knew that some-how, things would work out fine.

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Imagine sitting down to construct a giant jigsaw puzzle, opening the box and pouring out 1000 pieces on the table. There’s likely a large chuck that never broke apart so you set it over to the right hand side of the table, happy for the head start. There are some other smaller chunks that you set nearby and the rest you spread across the table, piece by piece. As you look things over, it’s hard to imagine how it will all fit together. The Archipelagos of Aysén are the same sort of puzzle, a continuance of the mountains along the coast, but here, as a result of tectonic movements and the numerous glaciations that have taken place in the area, the moun-tains have been fractured into thousands of intricate parts, like a giant jigsaw picture, forming fjords, archipelagos and hundreds of islands that give life to a landscape without equal, of unique beauty, inhabited by hard-working fishermen and their families.

The Cordillera Route originated with the important task of connecting the islands and coast of Aysén with other areas of Chile. The route operates via modern ferries which transport passengers, cars, trucks and goods between the coastal villages, following a reg-ular schedule that is always subject to delays and changes, due to the weather of the zone. On-board amenities for passengers are basic and can include reclining seats, bathrooms, on-board video and a small cafeteria. You can travel the entire route straight through, or in a hop-on, hop-off sort of fashion, pay-ing only for the segments you reserve.

Navigating the Cordillera Route will give you the opportunity to see places so remote that many are not even named. In each of the segments of the route, you’ll be treated to natural wonders and the chance to observe marine animals and birds. On board you’ll have plenty of opportunities to get to know your fellow passengers: families, backpack-

NAVIGATE THE FJORDS AND CHANNELS OF AYSÉN

FOLLOWING THE

CORDILLERA ROUTE

The Cordillera route, operated by Naviera Austral, navigates the unknown channels of Aysén. It’s a beautiful territory that is much like a giant jigsaw puzzle made up of thousands of isolated islands, infinite natural wonders, and the stories of brave families who have populated their hidden coves.

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ers, fishermen, inhabitants of the islands, and visitors from all over the world.

The route starts in Quellón, at the southern end of the Isla Grande of Chiloé. The first leg travels to the island of Melinka and can be one of the rougher crossings be-cause you are navigating the Corcovado Gulf and the waters can toss you about a bit. In fact, if you have a tendency to get motion sickness, we recommend stopping at the pharmacy for some medicine. If the gulf is calm, keep a watch for seabirds in the coastal stretches and for dolphins following the boat. You’ll be in the territory of the giant blue whale which is a hard animal to spot, despite its massive size. Nevertheless, be ready with your camera – you never know!

Melinka, the capital of the Guaitecas Is-lands, is the first stop along the route. In this picturesque village there are various hikes with great spots for the observation of flo-

ra and fauna, and you can learn about local culture walking around town, where you will likely meet artisans, fishermen and boat builders.

The next stretch goes from Melinka to Puer-to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, navigating the Moraleda Channel. Raúl Marín Balmaceda is a small village with sandy streets surround-ed by a lush rain forest and lots of water all around (Raúl Marín is actually an island, although only separated from the coast by a stretch of several meters). On one side, you’ll encounter the freshwaters flowing from the mouth of the Palena River and on the others, the salt waters of the fjords and channels. Here, we can recommend hiking the Chucao Trail, taking a boat or kayak ex-cursion, or simply strolling along the endless sandy beaches. The landscapes are amazing!

The navigation continues toward Santo Do-mingo and Melimoyu, through the Refugio Channel. Melimoyu is a tiny town located at the base of the Melimoyu Volcano. The


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town began as part of the last Government driven colonization project of the twentieth century, under the military dictatorship. In-habitants of this colony were provided with incentives and free land, but afterwards, were left on their own for many years in this isolated wilderness setting, to struggle for themselves. Although few of these settlers remain today, the Institute of Melimoyu Ecosystem Research (MERI), which owns and manages the private Melimoyu Natural Reserve, can be found here. Its’ main mission is conserving Patagonian indigenous habitat, through ecotourism and scientific research.

The next stop is Puerto Gala which, along with Puerto Gaviota, was created during the 1980s as a temporary workers’ settlement, during the dramatic rise in popularity of hake, known locally as Austral Merluza. In fact, the first houses were little more than wooden log frames covered with nylon. Gradually they evolved into more permanent dwellings and finally, official villages. The island is close to several important Chono indigenous ar-chaeological sites and is quickly becoming an area of interest for scientists seeking to learn more about this mysterious group of nomad-ic canoe peoples.

The tour continues to Puerto Cisnes, pass-ing through the Jacaf Channel into the calmer waters of the Puyuhuapi Channel. Good lo-cal food and drink, an unforgettable annu-al folkloric festival, and kayaking, are some of the highlights of what you can do in this charming city. In addition Puerto Cisnes is a good point if disembark if you want to begin an overland adventure.

The next stretch travels from Puerto Cisnes

to Puerto Gaviota through the beautiful Puyuhuapi Channel. Puerto Gaviota is locat-ed within the Isla Magdalena National Park and from the village there are a few short hikes, and opportunities to take excursions to view marine fauna or to accompany local fishermen as they go about their daily work.

The stretch from Puerto Gaviota to Puerto Aguirre travels the Moraleda channel, stop-ping at the Huichas islands in which there are three locations: Puerto Aguirre, Caleta Andrade and Estero Cup. Here, you can learn about the life and culture of artisan fisherman and do plenty of walking around town, and on great interpretive trails. The route finishes with the navigation from Puer-to Aguirre to Puerto Chacabuco, which is within the Aysén Fjord and is the main port of the Region.

If you’d like to know more about these great destinations, keep reading! The fol-lowing pages will provide lots of detailed in-formation and some fun surprises.


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» Activity Type: Navigation through the Fjords and Channels of Aysén along the Cordillera Route: Quellón - Melinka - Raúl Marín Balmaceda - Santo Domingo - Melimoyu - Puerto Gala - Puerto Cisnes - Puerto Gaviota (Caleta Amparo) - Puerto Aguirre - Puerto Chacabuco. » Start: Quellón. » End: Puerto Chacabuco. » Distance: Approximately 520 km. » Duration: 2 days, 1 night minimum. (Note: You can reserve your trip, seg-ment by segment, in a sort of hop-on, hop off arrangement, allowing you to travel at your own speed and stay a few days in the locations you choose). » Seasonality: Year round; check sched-ules. » Special Considerations: The boats are ferries that enable you to transport a vehicle and offload in Aysén to ex-plore the Southern Road, BUT only some of the ports are equipped for the offloading of vehicles (Melinka, Puerto Cisnes and Puerto Chaca-

OVERVIEWbuco). The boats have hard-plastic seats outside on the upper decks and reclining upholstery seats below. Simple snacks are offered on board. If you have specific requirements for food, we recommend you bring your own. Itineraries are always subject to weather conditions and tides, so ex-pect delays. » Reservations: During the high season months of January and February it can be hard to find a seat. You defi-nitely need to reserve your tickets in advance for all of the segments you plan to take. Contact Naviera Austral: [email protected], www.navieraustral.cl. Offices: Quellón - Pedro Montt 457, (065) 2682207 - 2682505 - 2682506; Puerto Montt - Angelmó 1673, (065) 2270430 - 2270431 - 2270432; Melinka - Av. Costanera s/n, (067) 2431510; Puer-to Cisnes - Arturo Prat 07, (09) 84482837; Puerto Aguirre - Balmace-da N°350, (067) 2361357; Puerto Chacabuco – Ferry Terminal s/n, (067) 2351493; Coyhaique - Paseo Horn 40, Office 101, (067) 2210727.


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Approximately 470 species of birds have been recorded in Chile and 109 of those are considered seabirds, meaning that they obtain their food from an area near the coast. Seabirds of the fjords and channels of Aysén include albatrosses, petrels, fardelas, terns, cormorants, seagulls and pelicans. You’ll have the opportunity to observe these species from various points along the coast or you can contract an excursion with local fishermen or captains that are equipped to offer tours. So, keep a close watch when you are sailing the channels and exploring coastal towns and forests, like those you’ll encoun-ter in Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Puyuhuapi and Puerto Cisnes.

Bird watching is a great form of recreation that blends hiking, listening, visual obser-vation and science. Success depends on a variety of factors, including your level of ex-perience as an observer, the characteristics of the environment where you are, and of course, the cooperation of the feathered friends you encounter. In the coastal areas of Aysén, the environment is ideal for bird watching and the feathered friends are plen-tiful so, here are a few tips to help you with your skills.

First, when birds are distant, note their form and structure; then, begin to observe their coloration and plumage. Other aspects that will help you with the challenge of identifi-cation include the bird’s silhouette, its size, and the shape of its wings, beak, tail and feet. The pattern of plumage coloration is the most commonly used feature for identifica-tion, because it not only allows you to differ-entiate between similar species, it also helps you distinguish sexes and determine the level of maturity of the bird. Generally, birds tend to have two basic plumages; one associated with being a juvenile, and another with being adult. But before you decide you can master all this in a single outing, consider that there many species, like the albatross, for example, which don four to seven different states of plumage during its lifespan. Bird watching is

DISCOVER “BIRD

WATCHING” ALONG THE COASTS OF

AYSÉN

Visiting the coasts of Aysén provides you with a great opportunity to learn about the large number of seabirds that habitat the fjords. Here’s a brief guide to help you identify them.


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Key Features for identification

» Length: 22 cm. Wingspan: 32cm. » Coloring: The Magellanic Diving Petrel can be distinguished from other pe-trels by a crescent shaped band at the base of its head where it joins with the white of the body. The blackish dor-sal feathers are lined with white, par-ticularly noticeable in new plumage.

RED-LEGGED CORMORANT OR LILE (PHALACROCORX GAIMARDI).

both fun and a tremendous challenge!

Here are the characteristics of the more typical birds of the fjords and channels of Aysén:WILSON’S STORM PETREL OR GOLON-DRINA DE MAR (OCEANITES OCEANI-CUS).

This small seabird is abundant in the fjords of Aysén and throughout the coastal areas of the southern hemisphere. It likes the open sea, frequenting channels and estuaries. Wil-son’s Storm Petrel nests in caves throughout the Antarctic and sub-Antarctic islands, as well as the southern part of Chile. When they search for food along the surface of the ocean, they lower their long legs to skim the top of the water, giving the impression that are walking on its surface.


» Length: 17 cm. Wingspan: 40cm. » Coloring: Coffee and black with notice-able white band across the tail bone continuing toward the sides. Gray line across the dorsal surface of the wings.

MAGELLANIC DIVING PETREL OR YUN-CO DE MAGALLANES (PELECANOIDES MAGELLANI).

This small diving petrel is endemic to the Patagonian waters, distributed between the Chacao channel (Chiloé) and Cape Horn. It prefers coastal areas, so it is common to observe small groups diving and feeding in the fjords and channels. As is characteristic of petrels, they nest in caves amongst the is-lands, living and breeding in colonies. Their

reproductive period begins between No-vember and December.

The Red-legged Cormorant is one of the most beautiful species of cormorants, with a habitat that is distributed along the Pacif-ic coast, from Peru to the Aysén Region in Chile, and there are also some colonies in Argentina. It is a threatened coastal species showing rapid declines; affected by fishing operations and industrial development. Around 70% of the world’s remaining pop-ulation is distributed between the Regions of


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Aysén and the Lakes Region, further north. They nest in permanent, year-round colonies along cliffs or rocky coastal walls where they lay two to three eggs per year. Both males and females share the parenting tasks of nest protection, incubation, care and upbringing.


» Length: 75 cm. » Coloring: Gray with a conspicuous white spot on each side of the neck. Yellowish-orange beak with reddish face. Green eyes. Red legs and feet. Juveniles experience several morphs but generally appear brownish above, paler below with a dark throat patch and orange or dark-colored legs.

MAGELLANIC CORMORANT OR ROCK SHAG (PHALACROCORAX MAGELLANI-CUS). This very large marine bird with a wingspan

of up to 228 cm, resides in large colonies along the coasts of Chile and Peru. They often fly close to the surface of the water in long lines or in V-formation. To feed, they dive into the water, catching fish within the large bag at the bottom of their beak.


» Length: 125 cm. Wingspan: 228 cm. » Color: White head with yellow-ish shading, yellowish beak. Dark body, with white spots. Gray legs.

GREY GULL OR GAVIOTA GARUMA (LARUS MODESTUS).

ever, their silhouette, including the shape and size of the head and beak, will help you with identification.

PERUVIAN PELICAN (PELECANUS THAGUS).

This bird is native of Chile, with a color pat-tern and plumage that changes each year until the bird reaches the age of three, be-

This relatively small member of the cormo-rant family habitats the coastal areas of Chile from the Lakes Region to the Diego Ramirez Islands as well as the Atlantic coasts of Ar-gentina as north as the Chubut Province. It is a rather shy bird that lives in small groups, amongst coastal cliffs, often mixing its colo-nies with other species of cormorants.


» Length: 65 cm » Coloring: Black upper body and neck. Underparts white. Thin blackish bill. Red orbital ring and bare areas of the face. Pink legs. Juveniles are almost complete-ly dark, with some bright spots on their chest and abdomen, and are often con-fused with the Guanay Cormorant, espe-cially when they are in the water. How-


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coming an adult. It is the only grey gull found in Chile. It feeds on sea fleas and crustaceans along the beaches.


» Length: 42-44 cm. » Coloring: When adults are in their mat-ing season a white plumage protrudes from their heads; the rest of the year their heads are grey, as well as their tails. They have black legs and a black beak.

SNOWY EGRET OR GARZA CHICA (EGRETTA THULA).

DOMINICAN GULL OR KELP GULL (LARUS DOMINICANUS).

This beautiful coastal bird frequents sandy beaches, freshwater marshes and at times, rocky coastlines. Their population has been heavily impacted by maritime accidents, oil spills and the use of pesticides.


» Length: 50 cm. » Coloring: Totally white. Black bill, with yellow base. Long legs that are black in front and yellow behind.

The most common of Chile’s gulls, this hand-some inter-tidal bird derives its scientific name from the black and white plumage typ-ical amongst adults, which is similar to the habits of the Dominican nuns. As omnivores, these birds feed on plankton, invertebrates and fish and have even been known to peck holes in the backs of living whales and feed on their flesh. They nest along beaches in shallow depressions lined with grasses and feathers, where the female lays 2 or 3 eggs per year.


» Length: 60 cm. » Coloring: White head, tail, chest and ab-domen, with black wings and back. Yel-low beak. The colors of the plumage in juveniles completely changes each year until they reach adulthood at the age of four.


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» Activity Type: Bird watching. » Start: Anywhere along the coast and channels of Aysén. » End: Captured in great photographs or sketches for your journal. » Duration: 4 hours. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: If you are pas-sionate about birds we recommend the English field guide, A Wildlife Guide to Chile, by Sharon Ches-ter or the Spanish field guide, Guía de campo de las especies de aves y mamíferos marinos del sur de Chile, by authors Rodrigo Hucke Gaete and Jorge Ruiz Troemel. To listen to bird calls and songs, visit: www.xe-no-canto.org. » Reservations: Although there are currently no specialists offering bird watching, there are several guides and captains who provide tours along the coast, including:• Victor Ruiz – Melinka; (09)

62101686; [email protected]

• Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones - Puerto Cisnes, Av. Arturo Prat 1037; (067) 2346584; [email protected]; Facebook: Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones

• Kawelyek Expediciones - Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Pasaje Puerto Cisnes s/n; (09) 75429056; kawe-

[email protected]; [email protected]; www.kawelyek.cl

• Mario Acevedo Maritime Trans-port - Puerto Gala; Mobile Radio Base; (09) 78767405 -82162409; [email protected]

• Volantín Passenger Transport – Puerto Gala; Mobile Radio Puerto Gala; [email protected]

• Yeri II Passenger Transport - Puer-to Gaviota; (09) 65139825; Luis Adrian Alvarez Gómez

• Oscar Barria Passenger Transport - Puerto Cisnes; (09) 82139452

• Juan Carlos Torres Passenger Transport - Puerto Cisnes; (09) 82400063; [email protected]

• Arturo Ruiz Passenger Transport - Puerto Cisnes; (09) 95030057; [email protected]

• Claudio Matamala Passenger Transport - Puerto Cisnes; (09) 87428544; [email protected]

• Born in Patagonia Passenger Transport - Raúl Marín Balmace-da; (09) 77690375; [email protected]

• Experiencia Austral – Puyuhuapi, Otto Ubel Nº36; (09) 87448755; [email protected]; [email protected]; www.experienciaustral.com


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For some, the pirate Pedro Ñancúpel is re-membered as a hero, for others a thief and a brutal murderer. There are countless sto-ries told of this legendary pirate who roamed the Guaitecas Archipelago in the mid 1800’s and it is hard to distinguish fact from fiction. The only hard facts are that he was born in 1837 in a small hamlet of Chiloé and became one of the most feared pirates of the era in the Fjords and Channels of the area. The rest is legend…

Chiloé had been annexed as part of Chile only a few decades prior and the economic, social and cultural changes resulting from this relationship were not being well received by islanders. Outsiders had arrived with funding and permits to extract local resources; per-haps the most powerful was Ciriaco Álvarez, known as the King of the Cypress. His eco-nomic wealth was aligned with the political power in the area and it wasn’t long before he was begrudgingly considered as lord and master over a large portion of Chiloé. Pedro Ñancúpel rebelled against Álvarez and his foreman, deciding to migrate to the Guait-ecas and forge his own destiny. But treason against the King of the Cypress, was the same as rebelling against the authority of the Gov-ernment of Chile, and soon, Pedro found himself as a local symbol of the resistance against the establishment.

Ñancúpel set sail from Chiloé in route for Las Guaitecas with provisions, a shotgun and gunpowder. He was looking for his brother Juan and a nephew, who made their living hunting beavers and otters in the different islands of the archipelago and selling their pelts. When he found them, it wasn’t hard to convince them that stealing skins would be much more lucrative than hunting and they formed a plan to attack a crew of hunters who were working nearby. They killed the hunters, robbed their skins, weapons and merchandise, and hid the bodies in a cave.

EXPLORE THE MYTHS AND LEGENDS OF

ÑANCÚPEL THE PIRATE

Explore Melinka, one of the small beach towns of the Guaitecas Archipelago, where you’ll discover great seaward overlooks and a myriad of stories and legends, including tales of the raids of pirate, Pedro Ñancúpel. Will you be the lucky one to discover his treasure?


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With their stolen weapons and supplies, they traveled to other area islands finding other crews to rob; thus, beginning a rash of bru-tal crimes, the scope of which is still being discovered. Many of these crimes went un-recognized because there was little maritime control in this era; people disappearing were attributed to shipwrecks and storms in the Corcovado Gulf. It is not uncommon today, with increased traffic and exploration of the islands and islotes of Las Guaitecas, that skel-etons and stashes are discovered and added to the list of Ñancúpel’s pillages.

Ñancúpel’s wealth and power increased rapidly; each time he amassed a full load of booty, he would go into Melinka, Castro or Ancud to sell his wares; interchanging skins for ounces of gold. With his profits, he would by more guns, powder and provisions, and head back out to the sea, where he reigned, spreading terror and death. It is said that he had no pity, no respect for age or gender. Some stories go so far as to say that he raped

the young wife and killed the baby of one of the captains, whose boat he later sank. The story says that he took them to a cave where he abused the woman for 3 days, before slay-ing the baby in front of his mother and then also killing her.

Other stories contradict this image of Ñancúpel as a cruel murderer. These ac-counts tell of the pirate delivering food and supplies to indigenous peoples, peasants and workers and punishing the captains of sea lion hunting vessels who abused their employees. In these stories, Ñancúpel never attacked vessels owned by fellow Chilotes, preferring instead to wreak havoc on those whom he termed as “the mighty”. This ver-sion of the myth depicts an image that is more like a Robin Hood of the seas than a ruthless criminal.

Stories go that when Ñancúpel had complet-ed a total of 99 murders (or 200 or more, depending on who’s telling the story) he was


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finally apprehended in Melinka and extra-dited to Chiloé where he went on trial and was executed in 1887. It is said that he never showed the slightest evidence of remorse.

But all of this is myth and legend, there is little official information about the Pirate Ñancúpel. And with pirate stories, does it really matter? Isn’t it more fun to listen to the hundreds of good stories you’re sure to hear when conversing with the inhabitants of the Archipelago de las Guaitecas? If you want to explore the stomping grounds of this legendary character, we suggest you in-vest some hours in strolling around Melinka, the main town of Las Guaitecas, and its sur-rounding forests, beaches and caves.

Start by walking northeast from the village following the path toward the airfield. About halfway to the airfield you should detour, taking the trail that crosses the forest toward a small bay enveloped by evergreens. This is the place to test your luck as a treasure hunter, the legendary area of the famous cave of the Pirate Ñancúpel. According to the legend, the pirate buried a treasure trove of skins, furniture and gold in some place in Melinka and many believe it was in the cave in this protected bay, which now bears his name.

Afterwards, there is another trail located a little further north, where the Raya Beach begins, that will lead you through a beautiful sector protected from the winds and ideal for sunbathing or a picnic. Another perfect place for a picnic is the Faro Falso sector. If you head north from Melinka along the road that runs parallel to the sea, you’ll soon reach an evergreen forest that harbors an old light-house, now decommissioned after many

» Activity Type: Scenic and historic walks and treasure hunting. » Start: Melinka » End: Melinka » Distance: Approximately 2 km from Melinka to the Faro Falso sector. » Duration: 2-6 hours. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: we recommend you take a picnic to enjoy on the beach. » Reservations: Self-guided activity.

OVERVIEW

centuries of protecting captains following this coastal route. The beach is beautiful in this sector, the perfect place to sit for a while and watch the sea, contemplating the myths and contradictions of the pirate Ñancúpel. Don’t be surprised to spot a ghostlike ship on the horizon with a skull and crossbones – after all, you’re in Las Guaitecas, where the past and the future are always connected by the continuing rhythms of the tides.


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In the ancient huilliche language, Las Guait-ecas means “passage to the south”. Here, in this archipelago, this fascinating and largely unknown territory of Patagonia begins, in a landscape filled with innumerable islands of all shapes and sizes. Melinka and Repollal are the main towns of the archipelago, which has a total of more than 1500 inhabitants, 91.6 % of them in Melinka.

The shores of the Guaitecas have been in-habited for thousands and thousands of years by people with a primary connection to the sea. At least 6,000 years ago, early in-digenous canoe peoples inhabited the area, ancestors of the chonos who occupied the fjords and channels of Aysén until modern times. The chonos were a nomadic people primarily devoted to fishing, hunting for sea lions and the collection of shellfish. Today, these groups have disappeared; yet the con-nection between the sea and the culture continues for modern Guaitecanos. It is their primary economic resource and the basis of their traditions and stories. Read along as we share a bit of this culture, through the stories of some of the interesting people you are likely to meet.

An expert algae collector. María Edilia Pérez arrived in Melinka from Chiloé, at the age of 15, when the town was little more than a few houses sprinkled amongst the forests. She married at 18 and is the mother of 12 children. Her husband died many years ago, but she has been able to provide for her family independently thanks to her skills in collecting, preparing, and selling the algae popularly known as luche. She learned this craft from other women of Melinka who passed along their knowledge and traditions from one generation to the next. María collects luche along the beach-es during the months of August, September

MEET SOME OF THE CULTURAL AMBASSADORS

OF THE GUAITECAS

This is a different sort of tour that permits a glimpse of the customs and traditions of the Guaitecas Archipelago through the work of its people. Artisan fishermen, boat builders, sailors, masters of the cholga seca, and personal histories full of anecdotes and sacrifice.


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and October, when it reaches it’s the largest size. Collections consist of scraping the algae from the stones along the shore, using your hands. Maria uses a 20 liter pail for collec-tion and then dries the luche in the open air for a few days, before cleaning and cooking it over a low heat to form a loaf, or cake that can later be re-hydrated for use in various recipes, including empanadas, sauces, stews, soups, and salads.

A Keeper of Sailing Traditions

sea lions and birds, among others. He works with native woods, including alerce and cy-press, which he collects along the beaches.

A Weaver of Grasses and Reeds María Griselda Nahuel was born in 1938 in Chiloé. Maria came to Melinka with her mother and brothers, at the age of 15 and learned to fish and collect mussels, called cholga, in Spanish. When she married, she stopped working at sea and devoted her time to her home and the hard work of tak-ing care of their ten children. Today, María celebrates grandchildren, great grandchil-dren and even great grandchildren! As a small girl, her mother taught her how to work with junquillo, a local reed, to make baskets. Junquillo is a native plant that grows in the wet grasslands of central and southern Chile. María collects the reeds, dries them in the sun and transforms into long strands which she uses to create baskets and all kinds of figures, including birds. A few years ago, María’s creative spirit inspired her to begin

José Vera, born in Melinka in 1972, has worked in connection with the sea his entire life, as a shellfish and algae collector along the beaches and a small-scale fisherman and diver. He is one of the few sailors who knows how to navigate by sail in a traditional boat, called a chalupa. The art of sailing these ves-sels is a tradition that has been maintained from generation to generation, and that today has a great risk of disappearing. Sail-ing chalupas can be dangerous because it is easy to capsize if the captain does not have sufficient knowledge of the winds and tides. José current devotion is diving for sea urchins and Louga algae, a practice he began to study more than twenty years ago.

An Artist and Master CarpenterJosé Arroyo was born in 1971 in the city of Puerto Montt. At the age of 16, his family moved to Melinka where his mother was raised. His father, from Chiloé, was an ex-pert in wood, and taught his craft to José. To-day, when José is not fishing, he devotes his time to his passion, as an expert woodwork-er, making miniature replicas of boats, tables and carvings of animals including dolphins,

experimenting with manila, an herbaceous perennial and today she weaves in both me-diums.

A Keeper of Culinary Heritage: Dried Mussels or “Cholgas”Cecilia Leviñanco was born in Chiloé and lives in Melinka, where she is an expert in the complex art of drying cholgas, a local mussel. She collects the cholgas and cooks them in a big drum filled with sea water. Next, she takes them out of their shells and slowly dries them inside her Fogón (smokehouse). Then she strings them in long strands and hangs them to smoke before finishing this


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traditional preparation by braiding the long strands together. Currently, this culinary tra-dition is being threatened by an increasing presence of red tide in many areas histori-cally used by the settlers for shellfish gather-ing. Nevertheless, communities continue to search for ways to keep this craft alive.

A pair of Master Boat buildersAlberto Carimoney was born in 1930 in Chiloé and lives in the sector of Repol-lal, where he is an expert boat-builder. He only uses hand tools; an ax, a hammer and a chisel. He crafts traditional boats, like the Chalupa, from dried cypress which has natu-ral water repellent qualities. He softens the woods with steam and works with his tools to carve and shape the form of the boat. Lat-er, he adds other hard woods for strength, especially in the creation of his masts and riggings. He still knows how to craft sails but receives much more demand for boats that can be adapted for use with motors. Jorge Eduardo Piucol was born in 1950 in the town of Repollal and has lived there his entire life. He also crafts boats and chalupas, explaining that the difference between the two is that a chalupa has both its bow and stern shaped with a point, like the paper boats you might make as a child. A boat’s bow also ends in a point, however its stern is straight, allow-ing for installation of a motor and making it MUCH easier to build. Jorge can build a boat in little more than a month.

» Activity Type: Cultural journey through the traditions of the Guait-ecas. » Start: The communities of Melinka and Repollal. » End: The communities of Melinka and Repollal. » Distance: You can design your own circuit by contacting and visiting some of the cultural ambassadors of the Guaitecas. » Duration: 1 - 3 hours » Seasonality: Year Round. » Special Considerations: The per-sons presented in this article participated in an inventory of In-tangible Cultural Heritage of the Aysén Region, conducted by the National Council for Culture and the Arts in 2013. They are people who maintain one or more cultural traditions and are willing to share their knowledge with others to enhance understanding of the local culture of the Guaitecas and insure its survival. They have other jobs and responsibilities and may not al-ways be available to meet with you. » Reservations: To learn more about these cultural ambassadors and their respective crafts, contact:• María Edilia Pérez – Melin-

ka, Calle Costanera s/n; (09) 66388116

• José Vera – Melinka, Corner of Angamos & Leucallen s/n; (09) 77441826

• José Arroyo – Melinka, An-gamos s/n; (09) 95973189; [email protected]

• María Griselda Nahuel – Melin-ka: Felipe Westhoff s/n; (09) 97939410

• Cecilia Leviñanco – Repol-lal, Repollal Alto s/n; (09) 84550465

• Albero Carimoney – Repollal, Repollal Alto s/n

• Jorge Piucol – Repollal, Repollal Alto s/n; (09) 84433898

OVERVIEW


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IN SEARCH OF THE ELUSIVE GIANT OF THE

SEASThe travel chronicles of early explorers like Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire, who explored the southern stretches of the Pacific in 1616 leave little doubt about the abundance of whales in these waters. “We saw countless penguins, abundant fish and thousands of whales, so many that we had to weave our way around them to avoid hitting them with our ship”.

But then the whaling industry arrived and ce-taceans became a highly profitable product, coveted throughout the world, leading to the near extinction of the species. The blue whale, the largest of all the whales, was one of the most affected; whale hunters killed more than 97% of its global population. For many years there were no recorded sightings of the blue whale within Chilean seas. Zero! But, approximately a decade ago, Chilean scientists from the Cetacean Conservation Center (www.ccc-chile.org), and the Blue Whale Center (www.ballenazul.org), be-gan to witness a miracle: the giants were back!

In 2003, marine biologist Rodrigo Hucke, of the Austral University, published a paper in the Royal Society Journal of the Academy of Sciences of the United Kingdom: “Discov-ery of a feeding and recovery zone for blue whales in the south of Chile.” Soon after, dozens of scientists, environmentalists and television crews, like the BBC, came to the Corcovado Gulf to observe and film these whales. Today, the international scientific community recognizes the Corcovado Gulf and the area northwest of the island of Chiloé as the area with the largest number of sighting of blue whales in the entire south-ern hemisphere. There are believed to be no more than 3,000 blue whales in all the world’s oceans, and approximately 300 of

Despite their enormous size, the blue whale is not easy to sight; but it is not impossible either. The stormy seas of the Corcovado Gulf are considered to have the greatest rate of blue whale sightings in the entire southern hemisphere. Excursions leave from Melinka and the exclusive Jechica Island resort. Up for the challenge?


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these are believed to habitat the Corcova-do zone; to date around 160 individual blue whales have been identified here, in a proj-ect to photo register and catalogue their population based on the unique markings of their fins.

Observing the blue whale is a tremendous challenge, due to a number of factors. First, the Gulf is immense, extending more than 90 km with a width of around 45 meters. Second, the whales are constantly moving underwater. They can swim between 25 and 50 km/h and only need to surface for brief intervals to breathe, three or four times per hour. The climate of the zone is adverse and seas are often rough, complicating further the difficult task. Finally, the enormous size of this animal, with up to 30 meters in length and 200 tons in weight, precludes them from being as acrobatic as other whales whose frequent jumps assist the task of watchers. In contrast, the most common blue whale sightings involve seeing a dense stream of

water released during breathing. If you are lucky, you might have the privilege of sighting a tail fin (fluke), or the dorsal ridges and fin.

Try your luck at the panoramic overlook in Melinka where you can gaze across the hori-zon in search for the jets of water that the blue whale emits from its blow holes, reach-ing up to 10 meters in height. You’ll want to bring a good windbreaker and hat because the wind never stops in this sector. If you’d like to try your luck at sea, contact Victor Ruiz, who offers day trips to observe blues. It is also possible to see humpback whales, austral dolphins (or toninos), colonies of sea lions and a great variety of sea birds.

You could also visit the Jechica Island Ma-rine & Refuge, located about three and a half hours from Melinka by boat. The island consists of 7,200 hectares that have been conserved in their natural and pristine state, are one of the best kept secrets of the Gulf. The island is frequented by small sailing


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» Activity Type: Whale watching » Start: Melinka. » End: Jechica Island. » Distance: Variable, based on the circuit you elect. » Duration of the activity: 4 hours to various days, based on the circuit you elect. » Seasonality: December to March. » Special Considerations: As ex-plained previously, sighting the blue whale is a challenge; you should be prepared for the likely event that you will not realize this goal in ev-ery excursion. » Reservations: To organize your tour, we suggest you contact:• Melinka; Victor Ruiz; (09)

62101686; [email protected]

• Island Jechica Marina and Ref-uge; Satellite phones: (562) 24217000 - 24217001; [email protected]; www.isla-jechica.cl

OVERVIEW

boats and yachts from all over the world that stop for a few days of pampering, gourmet food and pure nature. It is not necessary to own a yacht to visit this exclusive spot, you just need to coordinate with their adminis-tration and they will provide passage from Melinka. On the island you can participate in whale-watching excursions, explore hiking trails, kayak and relax in luxurious cabins, a club house, bar, library, internet and more.


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A great way to immerse yourself in the beautiful landscapes of the channels and fjords of Aysén is to get close to the level of the water paddling in kayak. Following the shorelines of the islands and coasts provides a unique opportunity to learn about and observe the lush flora and fauna of this area. There are plenty of options, including guided excursions for paddlers of all levels, and expedition-style courses for those who seek to master this challenging sport.As you travel the fjords of Aysén, pause and imagine how they might have appeared during previous ice ages when they were gi-ant frozen estuaries! The ice receded away hundreds of thousands of years ago, forming the long, narrow, submerged glacial valleys and high towering walls that surround you during your trip. These fjords are one of only eight fjordal systems in the world; the others are located in Canada, Greenland, New Zea-land, Norway, and the Pacific Northwest of the United States.

The winds and water movements that are typical of fjords produce the conditions for extensive nutrient upwelling, producing a plethora of alga and zooplankton that form an incredible productive base for the aquatic food chain. That is why the fjords and chan-nels of Aysén are incredible natural reserves for unique and interesting fauna ranging from microscopic algae and corals to sea anemo-nes and fish, and many cetaceans, including the austral dolphin and several varieties of whales. The Aysén fjords have been com-plemented by tectonic forces which have fractured the coastal mountain range into a thousand of parts forming islands, islets and channels. And each island is a small bio-di-verse paradise, with hundreds of species of flora and fauna.

Ferries and charters navigate these waters providing various options for travelers, and there are also several options for kayaking, which places you at the water’s level. It’s an incredible perspective that allows you to connect with this magnificent area at a very physical level, propelling yourself through the

PADDLING THE FJORDS OF

AYSÉN


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water in complete silence, surrounded by the mysteries and marvels of the sea and shores.

There are several kayaking options within the fjords and channels of Aysén. To access the coastal towns and ports, you can travel the Cordillera Route with Naviera Austral, which circulates between Puerto Chacabuco and Quellón, stopping at all the intermediate ports and docks. If you have your own boat, you can arrange to porter it on the ferry and if not, you can lease equip-ment in Puerto Cisnes, Raúl Marín or Caleta Andrade.

Some Routes and tours We suggest heading to Puerto Gaviota to explore the 6.4 kilometer stretch between Puerto Gaviota and Puerto Amparo, a pad-dle that takes you along beautiful areas of the peninsula and does not require previous experience. It is ideal for paddlers of all lev-els; the winds are not usually a limiting factor, since both ports are protected, and the na-

ture along the route is impressive.

You can make a side trip to visit the mysteri-ous cave of San Andrés, which is presumed to have been a refuge for ancient nomadic canoe peoples. To reach the cave, you will enter the Puyuhuapi Channel where the winds are less predictable, therefore we recommend this route only for more expe-rienced paddlers. If you are exploring this area independently, consider traveling with a support boat; there are several captains in Puerto Gaviota who can be contracted for logistical and safety support.

In Puerto Cisnes, Patagoni-K Mate & Ex-pediciones offers guided two-day tours to the Escondida Lagoon, and other excursions in the Cisnes River Delta and the Lago las Torres National Reserve. Excursions include kayaks and gear, transport, guide, safety equipment and box lunches. You can also rent kayaks by the hour, including all needed safety equipment.

Pachanca Kayak offers tours of the small channels between the Huichas Islands,


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» Activity Type: Kayaking in the fjords and channels of Aysén. » Start: There are several options. » End: There are several options. » Distance: It depends on your abilities and preferences. » Duration: A few hours to several weeks. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: The waters of Patagonia offer unique and unforget-table experiences and a wide range of activities and sports. However, you need to be responsible and prepared to avoid and manage the risks involved with water based adventure activities. Use appropriate clothing and techni-cal equipment (life vests, wet-suits, wind jackets, gloves, helmets, etc.). Remain close to the shore and always kayak in a group accompanied by a guide or others with sufficient train-ing and experience. Use a GPS and appropriate maps and charts. » Reservations: • Naviera Austral; www.navier-

austral.cl; contacto@na-

OVERVIEWvieraustral.cl; Offices include: Quellón - Pedro Montt N°457, (065) 2682207 - 2682505 - 2682506; Puerto Montt - An-gelmó 1673; (065) 2270430 - 2270431 - 2270432; Melinka - Av. Costanera S/N, (067) 2431510; Puerto Cisnes - Arturo Prat N°07, (09) 84482837; Puerto Aguirre - Balmaceda N°350, (067) 2361357; Puerto Chacabuco – Ferry Ter-minal S/N, (067) 2351493; Coy-haique - Paseo Horn N°40 Office 101, (067) 2210727.

• Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones - Puerto Cisnes, Av. Arturo Prat 1037; (067) 22346584, [email protected]; [email protected]

• Pachanca Kayak – Caleta Andrade; Cristóbal Cerda; (09) 92163339; Facebook: guacho.matero

• Aguahielo Expediciones; (09) 76053580 - 96162538; [email protected]; www.aguahielo.cl

• NOLS – Coyhaique. Consult in their website: www.nols.edu/courses/patagonia-sea-kaya-king-prime/; (09) 75292502 - 75292488

which allow close up viewing of friendly bot-tle-nose dolphins and lots of seabirds. Their shop is located along the waterfront in Cale-ta Andrade.

Interested in developing you kayak skills? Try one of these expedition style experiential courses. The Aysén based branch of the American wilderness leadership school, NOLS (Na-tional Outdoor Leadership School), offers two week adventure courses, where you travel through the fjords and channels, learn-ing paddling techniques, expedition planning and behavior, risk management and rescue techniques, and wilderness living skills. The course also will teach you to interpret and read nautical charts, understand tides and currents, and study how weather and wind affects your plans and decisions. At the end,

you will be prepared to plan and carry out kayak trips within many remote areas of the world.

Aguahielo Expeditions, located in Puerto Aysén, also offers options for experiential kayak courses that provide shorter and more economic options for learning and perfect-ing your skills. Rolando Toledo, ACA instruc-tor and regional kayak guide offers several itineraries including expeditions to the San Rafael Lagoon National Park and a descent of the Baker River to its delta, near Caleta Tortel. The courses offer great adventure and many of the same learning opportuni-ties as the NOLs options; including paddling techniques, wilderness survival skills, nautical chart reading, minimum impact camping, emergency response procedures, and lots more.


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PUERTO GALA’S OFFERS FASCINATING

NATURE, MYSTERY AND FORTITUDE

The tiny fishing community of Puerto Gala inhabits a protected bay that rests between four tiny islands, Toto, Chita, Padre Ronchi and a fourth so small, it has no name. It’s an incredible natural setting where you can explore the mysteries and remains of early nomads, recent nomads and the brave settlers who have decided to stay. This tiny grouping of islands is located at the opening of the Jacaf Channel where it meets with the Moraleda Channel. It is home for about 300 inhabitants, most of whom are devoted to the work of the sea.

To visit the island, you can charter a boat in Puerto Cisnes that will drop you at the docks in a little less than two hours, or reserve your space on one of the ferries regularly mov-ing beyond the islands and ports of Aysén, along the Cordillera Route. The closest port is Puerto Cisnes, however, you can embark at any of the ports along the route.

Why should you go? Let’s start with the nature.Playa Bonita, a local favorite, is about 15 min-utes from Puerto Gala. This small paradise is comprised of white sandy beaches surround-ed by forests and a towering 30 m cascade; all protected from the wind and high waves. It is the ideal place to spend a day or two, as minimal impact camping is allowed. The for-est provides opportunities for hiking, there are amazing overlooks with incredible views of the entire channel and its islands, and the sunsets are stunning. If you are especially lucky, you may be at the beach on one of the nights where the sea is illuminated by sea sparkle, also known as the sea ghost or fire of the sea. This amazing phenomenon makes the waves and fish glow an icy blue-green, resulting in an incredibly beautiful and mag-ical site. It is the result of noctilucas, a com-mon marine single-celled microorganism that lives on photosynthetic algae that gather in shallow coastal areas around the world. Each microscopic, lily pad shaped cell is made up of thousands of organelles that produce their blue-green light, or sea sparkle, when they are agitated by the movement of the waves


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or fish moving through the waters.

Now let’s add a little history.Puerto Gala is home for several important archaeological sites of the chonos, an an-cient nomadic group of canoe peoples, who moved between the islands of the fjords and channels in canoes, called dalcas to fish, gather shellfish and hunt for sea lions. There are two archaeological excursions on the islands that will allow glimpses of this mys-terious culture. The first is a visit to the tiny Chita Island, 15 minutes from Gala, by boat. You can arrange transport from one of the local Gala captains, who will take you to a beautiful beach in a protected cove that was used by the chonos to corral fish. There is evidence of their fishing scattered around the beach, hand carved rock implements that were used in their fishing. If you visit take lots of pictures but DON’T TAKE ARTIFACTS. It’s illegal and wrong; these implements are important aspects of the heritage of this area and deserve respect and care. A short walk from the beach leads you to an interesting cemetery where ancient chono graves co-exist alongside modern grave markings and crèches for various saints.

You also have the opportunity to visit the Estero South archaeological site, an hour from Puerto Gala traveling through the Jacaf

Channel. The site sits on the private prop-erty of the Jofre family, so before you vis-it, you will need to contact them in Puerto Gala, seek permission and organize your trip. When you arrive at the island, you’ll need to walk through the forest for around 30 minutes in order to reach a rocky cliff over-hang and a rustic cave. When the chonos made temporary camps, they erected small wooden frames, made from tree branches and covered with skins or lived in caves, such as these. In this particular cave, 16 bodies were found dating back approximately 2,000 years.

The natural environment of the estuary is fabulous, with beautiful beaches at low tide and lush vegetation. We recommend camp-ing for the night and taking the time to listen to nature and imagine what life was like for the men, women and children who roamed these seas with little more than their canoes and a zest for living.

Finish it off with some folklore.“Pueblos of plastic, wills of steel” is a popular saying that does a great job of summarizing the spirit of the fishermen who came to the Islands of Gala from various points of Chile in the mid-1980s, lured by the high prices being paid for austral merluza (hake). Believing that this would be a passing craze, these modern


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day nomads installed themselves in what has come to be known as “nylon ranches”, some-thing that they themselves invented. They were a sort of makeshift plastic tents, large sheets of nylon mounted on four sticks and erected on rocks or in the forest. Inside, they improvised crude stoves for heat and cook-ing, from big metal oil drums. They slept on cushions on the ground or crudely erected cots. They lived in these “nylon ranches” for years, surviving through summers and win-ters and the hostile and inclement weather that is common within the fjords.

As time passed, they were joined by their wives and families, converting their haphaz-ard shelters into a virtual plastic pueblo. It was hard on everyone and they soon real-ized it was time to commit to something a bit more permanent. Thus, they worked together, with the help of a few brave and caring outsiders, like the Italian priest and missionary, Fr. Antonio Ronchi. Slowly, they converted their precarious nylon ranches into permanent communities, which today are known as Puerto Gala and Puerto Gav-iota, located further south. These commu-nities were recognized officially as pueblos of Aysén, in 1999. Today, the nylon ranch-es are the symbol of a shared heritage for many in the area and they haven’t entirely disappeared. As you navigate through fjords and channels of Aysén, you will likely still en-counter some isolated nylon ranches, used as temporary posts for fishermen and for-esters.


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» Type of activity: Visit to Puerto Gala and nearby islands » Start: Puerto Gala. » End: Puerto Gala. » Distance: Depends on the circuit that you do. » Duration: Your visit to Puerto Gala can involve a single night or several days. Programs will depend on how you schedule your transportation. There are regular boats from Melinka, Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Puerto Cisnes and Puerto Chacabuco. » Seasonality: December - March » Special Considerations: Remember that everything you find in heritage and archaeological sites must be left intact where and how it was found. Take along your camera and GPS to record your findings. It is important to coordinate your visit and transpor-tation plans in advance and travel with plenty of time in case of unexpected weather or cancellations. To arrange passage via the ferries of the Cordil-lera Route, contact Naviera Austral (www.navieraustral.cl), or one of the boat services that transfer pas-sengers from Puerto Cisnes: Oscar Barría (09) 82139452, Juan Carlos Torres, (09) 82400063, [email protected]; Arturo Ruiz (09) 95030057, [email protected]; or Claudio Matamala, (09) 87428544, claudiomatsalazar@

OVERVIEWgmail.com. » Reservations: You can obtain more information about the island and your trip on Facebook: Port Island Gala Toto. You should get in touch in ad-vance of your arrival and reserve your accommodations by calling Claudio Patricio Aravena Navarro via the sat-ellite phone in the Puyuhuapi Grocery Store: (5602) 1960238 - 1960239, [email protected]. He can coordinate your accommodations with one of the two options on the island: Hospedaje Macalu and the Ca-banas owned by Sandra Isabel Meza Gonzalez. There are several captains who offer boat transfers and excur-sions, including: • Turismo Omega Boat Transfers;

Marco Antonio Coronado Salas; Mobile Radio Base Miller.

• Embarcación Tauro II Boat Trans-fers; Sandra Isabel Meza González; Mobile Radio Base Tauro; (56-09) 73746560.

• Mario Acevedo Boat Transfers; Embarcación nenita; Mobile Radio Base Puerto Gala; (09) 78767405 - 82162409; [email protected], [email protected].

• Volantín Boat Transfers; Embar-cación Volantín; Cristian Enrique Espinoza Aguayo; Mobile Raio Base Volantín; [email protected].


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FIND THE PEARL OF THE

LITTORAL IN PUERTO

CISNES

In the course of a few hours, Puerto Cisnes will fill your senses with tastes, sights, sounds and textures. Meander through coastal landscapes, walk along the beaches, sample local flavors and be amazed by the sounds of an orchestra of frogs and toads in the evening. This self-guided tour will help you learn your way around.

Puerto Cisnes is called “the pearl of the lit-toral” and it is truly a coastal gem; ferns grow like weeds in the courtyards of the houses, the hills are covered with lush native forest, the sea and the beaches reflect the peaceful, laid-back attitude of the inhabitants. It is the perfect combination to create a unique and spectacular landscape, located on the shores of the spectacular Puyuhuapi fjord. You’ll find this pearl via a brief detour from the Carretera Austral or if you prefer, you can arrive by sea aboard the ferries of Naviera Austral.

Puerto Cisnes is home for around 2,500 in-habitants and nestled between two National Parks: Queulat and Magdalena Island, mak-ing it a great base from which to organize your visits to both parks. Get to know this great town and some of its stories in this fun walking tour.

The ideal place to start is walking up the short Virgin of the Roses Trail, where you will be treated to excellent views of the city. Walk north from the plaza to find the trail-head at the end of Sotomayor Street. It is very well maintained with an entry por-tal and steps that take you up to the virgin. The stature of the Virgin of the Roses was brought to Puerto Cisnes by former mayor Eugenia Pirzio-Birolli, who immigrated to the area in 1957 from Italy, and was mayor for many years. Her fans emphasize her in-terest in nature preservation and the rights of those most in need.

The Municipal Public Library, located on the west side of the Plaza de Arms, is also worth a visit. It is a wooden building with a striking facade of columns and a carvings represent-ing the struggle between good and evil. It was designed with a Greco-roman aesthetic by


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the renowned Italian-Chilean architect, Vit-torio di Girolamo and constructed by local craftsmen and carpenters. Inside you’ll find more than books, there are also exhibits of historic photos and documents that highlight the important role that mayor Pirzio-Birolli has played in this town and the area. The ex-hibit also features the community supported work of Father Antonio Ronchi, a missionary who contributed to pueblos throughout the Region of Aysén, whose legacy is undeniable, and whose memory is celebrated by hun-dreds of persons in the region who knew and loved his unique personality and style.

Next you can stroll along the urban trail that connects the two sides of Puerto Cisnes along a beautiful urban trail crossing the pic-turesque hanging bridge over the San Luis River. The trail winds through the forests that surround the town, comprised of giant trees like coigüe, arrayanes, lumas, tepas and canelos. At the end of this trail, you can de-scend in the direction of the sea until you arrive at the waterfront (Avenida Arturo Prat), where the port’s fleet of boats rests to your left. If you are interested in navigating to visit the Isla Magdalena National Park or nearby islands, this is the place to contract your captain.

From here, you can continue walking south along Arturo Prat Avenue along the origi-nal overland route between the Carretera Austral and Puerto Cisnes. As you meander, you’ll soon pass a series of narrow curves

where the forest comes down to the road. In this sector, during the final hour of almost every day, a countless number of local frogs and toads, including grand Chilean frogs, tree frogs, and striped frogs, join forces with the sounds of the nearby ocean to create an in-credible natural orchestra. If you’re curious, head back at dusk to enjoy a free symphony, in Patagonian coastal style.

One kilometer south of town, along Arturo Prat Avenue (Route X-24), you’ll reach the Las Truchas Beach, which is open for swim-ming between 10:00 and the 20:00 during the summer months, and monitored by the Maritime Authority. It borders a protected cove, with views of the port and town, and is a beautiful place for picnics and camping. There is a wetland nearby which hosts local geese, called caiquénes and various kinds of ducks, ideal for bird watching fans.

Without doubt, a great way to finish your tour of Puerto Cisnes is with a visit to Finis-terra, (www.cervezafinisterra.cl), an arti-san brewery located near the plaza, at #297 José María Caro Street. With seven varieties of beer: pale ale, golden ale, dark ale, and pale ales flavored with calafate, cauchao (the fruit of the Luma tree), honey or aji chili pep-pers, all 100% organic and made with water from waterfalls in the Queulat watershed. The brewery offers guided tours and tastings or you can enjoy its brews in local restau-rants and shops around town.


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» Activity Type: Self-guided city tour. » Start: Our Lady of the Roses Trail, Puerto Cisnes. » End: Finisterra Brewery, Puerto Cisnes. » Distance: Approx. 3 Km. » Duration: We suggest a full day. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: You can visit all of the places along this tour in a single day but it is worthwhile to use Puerto Cisnes as your base for a few days and explore nearby Queulat Na-tional Park or a sea excursion to Isla Magdalena National Park. » Reservations: Not required, but if you are interested in lodging there are a variety of cabins with fully equipped kitchens. We recommend buying some of the great local seafood avail-able in town and cooking a great Ca-zuela or Paella in the evening. Some

OVERVIEWoptions include:• Cabanas y Hospedaje Michay, Ga-

briela Mistral 112; (067) 2346462; (09) 87240475

• Cabanas y Residencial Santa Ter-esita, Gabriela Mistral 327; (067) 2346820; (09) 77660642

• Enrique’s Cabanas y Residen-cial, Gabriela Mistral 234; (067) 2346461; (09) 62468428

• Cabanas El Triángulo, Séptimo de Línea 274; (09) 84428064

• Cabanas Brisas del Sur, Costanera 51 (Waterfront); (067) 2346587

• Cabanas Portal del Mar, Gabriela Mistral s/n; (067) 2346439; (09) 92222522

• Lafquen - Antu Hostal & Restau-rant, Arturo Prat s/n; (067) 2346382; (09) 76078885; [email protected]; Facebook: lafquen_antu_comidacisnes


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BRING AN APPETITE WHEN YOU VISIT THE

CAPITAL OF MERLUZA AUSTRAL!

Each year during the last weekend in January the town of Puerto Cisnes celebrates the Fiesta del Pesca’o Frito – a Patagonia style version of a giant fish-fry. Thousands of visitors pour into town during this three-day festival, ready to enjoy great music, fun local customs and of course, delicious Merluza Austral (Southern Hake), an icon of the fjords and channels of Aysén.Nestled between Queulat and Isla Magdale-na National Parks, Puerto Cisnes and its res-idents celebrate the traditions and history of the fjords and channels of Aysén, which have been heavily influenced by the Grand Island of Chiloé, the original home for many of the area’s settlers. The annual Fiesta del Pesca’o Frito is their biggest celebration, organized by the community as a way of celebrating traditions, great food, great music, commu-nity and fellowship. The star of this festival is always the same – delicious Merluza Austral!

The celebration lasts all weekend and one of the most exciting and special events occurs Saturday, right after lunch. It’s called a Minga Cisnense and it celebrates a tradition that began in Chiloé and has been transferred to towns of Aysén, owing in grand part to the work and mission of Padre Antonio Ronchi.

Father Antonio Ronchi arrived in Chile in 1960, at the age of 30, and dedicated the re-mainder of his life to work within her most rural and isolated communities. He helped them improve basic infrastructure and build social capital, with a unique style that en-abled ALL to participate. One of the unique aspects of Father Ronchi’s style was his use of what is called a “minga” approach, some-thing he had borrowed from the Island of Chiloé, a bit further north in Chile, where many of the Aysén settlers had ties. When communities in Chiloé had challenges or problems to address, people came together to solve them as a community; each making a personal contribution to the project, based on their individual talents and resources. In Aysén, Father Ronchi would go door to door, calling on each and every person in the com-munity, asking for their help. From donating


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wood and supplies to putting in hours of hard labor in construction, to providing food for the workers; everyone in the town would help in some way or another. This is one of the main reasons why Father Ronchi is still so highly praised; beyond helping build infra-structure, he helped connect communities.

In Puerto Cisnes, the minga is more alive than ever, thanks to the Fiesta del Pesca’o Frito, the municipality and the hard work of the community. Each year before the festival, the community elects a local family in need of a new house. The house is constructed using municipal funds and then raised onto a special raft. On Saturday morning, during the festival, it is floated out into the harbor and a giant floating boat parade accompa-

nies it, as it makes its way through the water to the main docks of town. From here, the whole town and thousands of festival par-ticipants join forces, tugging the house along the streets of town with huge ropes, until it reaches the lot where it will be placed. Of course, the hard work is followed by an enormous party, with a giant fish-fry, local music and dance, artisan beer and lots more. At other points in the weekend you can peruse local arts and crafts exhibits for the perfect souvenir or take part in kayak excur-sions, hikes or visits to the local beach.

Don’t worry if your visit does not co-incide with the festival; there’s great food in Puerto Cisnes year round.


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You’ll find some of the best restaurants in town in the blocks between the Plaza and the waterfront, all of which feature the clas-sic dish, Fried Merluza Austral. You can also try merluza broiled or grilled or sample oth-er local favorites, like congrio and salmon and of course, great steaks and lamb. Some of your choices include the Río Mar Restau-rant, which features grilled merluza, congrio or salmon, with Russian salad and seafood empanadas, the Guairao Restaurant, which offers a peaceful atmosphere and a wide variety of traditional Patagonian dishes, the Panchita Restaurant, which offers a great variety of fish and shellfish during the season, and the Monchito Restaurant, with daily specials, like puye, a delicious local fish, and “merluza a lo pobre”, which consists of fried merluza topped with french fries, sautéed onions and a fried egg.

You’ll also want to stop in to visit the Fin-isterra Brewery with seven varieties of de-licious local-crafted beer, brewed with the waters of the cascades from the Queulat watershed. Tour this family brewery, owned by the Saavedra family, to learn about their history and processes and sample their deli-cious brews.

For afternoon tea visit Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones, where you can enjoy great sandwiches, pizzas and an excellent cup of “Lucaffe” Italian coffee. You can also sched-ule a kayak tour or rent one of their moun-

tain bikes and take a spin through town. And if you’re a fishing fan, you may want to stop by another restaurant in town, Tour Bel-lavista, to sample their sandwiches and orga-nize a fishing or kayak trip, on the rivers and lakes near town.

Finish your gastronomic tour with a nice af-ter dinner drink of locally brewed, Gotas del Sol, one of the finest small-batch liqueurs of the region. Crafted from delicious combina-tions of local herbs and berries, this liquor makes an excellent gift for those at home.


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» Type of activity: Gastronomic Tour of Puerto Cisnes. » Start: The Fiesta del Pesca’o frito or a local restaurant. » End: Enjoying a great after dinner drink of locally brewed, Gotas del Sol. » Distance: Everything is in walking distance (500 meters). Most of the restaurants are on the waterfront or close to the Plaza of Arms. » Duration: We recommend you spend a few days, especially if you plan to at-tend the Fiesta del Pesca’o frito. » Seasonality: Mainly in summer, al-though there are many restaurants that remain open year round. » Special Considerations: During the Fi-esta del Pesca’o Frito, you’ll definitely want to have advance lodging reser-vations. » Reservations: Local restaurants do not require reservations. If you would like more information, contact :• Fiesta del Pesca’o Frito - organized

by the Fiesta del Pesca’o Frito Cul-tural and Social Club. Contact: Boris Ojeda (Municipality); Face-book: Minga Cisnense.

• Moraleda Seafood Shop - Located on the waterfront in front of the Guairao Restaurant, this market belongs to the Cooperative of

OVERVIEWMoraleda Independent Fisheries Work-ers (STI Moraleda), of Puerto Cisnes.

• Gotas de Sol artisan made liqueurs - Forest passage #36; Cristian Salin; (09) 88276850; [email protected]

• Finisterra Brewery - José María Caro #297; Carolina Saavedra, (067) 2346407; [email protected]

• Lafquen - Antu Hostal & Restaurant, Arturo Prat s/n; (067) 2346382; (09) 76078885; [email protected]; Facebook: lafquen_antu_comidacisnes

• Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones - Ar-turo Prat #1037; Juanita Ruiz (09) 76486378; (067) 2346584; Facebook: Patagoni-K Mate & Expediciones; [email protected], [email protected]

• Tour Bellavista Restaurant and Excur-sions: Séptimo de Línea #112; (067) 2346408; www.tourbellavista.cl

• Monchito Restaurant - Aguada de Do-lores s/n; (067) 2346411

• Restaurante Panchita – Corner of Artu-ro Prat and Aguada de Dolores; (067) 2346130

• Restaurante Río Mar - Piloto Pardo #032; (067) 2346959; (09) 82723481

• Restaurant Guairao – Costanera #373; (067) 2346473; www.guairao.cl


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Inhabited by about thirty families, Puerto Gaviota is a fishing village located in remote Isla Magdalena National Park, in the Puyuhuapi Channel. Schedule a visit and share the rhythms of days spent working at sea.

The same sea that isolates the tiny commu-nity of Puerto Gaviota from the rest of the world also gives reason for its existence. Sit-uated inside Isla Magdalena National Park, the town was officially founded in 1999, after slowly evolving from makeshift camps known locally as “nylon ranches” that began during the decade of the 1980’s when a few brave fishermen came in search of the coveted Austral Merluza. Today, these rustic camps have evolved into a tiny village with basic ser-vices including a church, school, boardwalks, boat slips and homes.

Visiting Puerto Gaviota is an adventure that is not for everyone. The isolation of the island results in conditions that can be challenging, but if you are the type of traveler who views these challenges as part of the fun of the adventure, you will be rewarded with a unique experience. To visit, you’ll need to coordinate boat passages, either with a pri-vate boat operator in Puerto Cisnes, which is more expensive but provides you with added flexibility, or via the Cordillera Route operated by the ferries of Naviera Austral. If you plan to travel via ferry, have some flexi-bility with your plans; the ferries only stop a few times per week and the weather of the fjords sometimes results in delays. There is a residential on the Island, named Residencial Isla Magdalena, managed by Señora Galicia Saldivia, and two cabanas, owned by Seño-ra Blanca Morras Rathgeber. There is no medical service of any kind, so you should be prepared with your medications and first aid supplies. Electricity is obtained by a genera-tor, but you should be prepared with flash-lights and headlamps, just in case.

During your visit, you’ll likely spend a lot of time on the boardwalks that connect the houses and docks of the town, from one end to the other. Think of it as the off-line ver-sion of the information highway and the so-cial media of the island. It’s the place where

SPEND A FEW DAYS WITH THE

FISHERMEN OF PUERTO GAVIOTA


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you can introduce yourself to local resi-dents and find out local news and happen-ings. Don’t be shy, news travels fast through such a tiny place so they’ll already know that you’re in town and where you’re from. Say hello and ask them about their lives on the islands; once they warm up, you’ll be treated to great stories.

You can also arrange to accompany some of the fishermen and learn the rhythms of their daily work. The cycle starts with preparing the bait, which usually happens the day prior to actual fishing and is a great day to relax, help out and share some great stories and jokes. On fishing days, you’ll have to get up very early and have a big breakfast before meeting your crew. You’ll navigate to a good fishing spot, place the buoy with the nets and wait for the merluza to nibble. Once they’re hooked, you’ll bring them in and remove each fish by hand once they’re safely on the ship’s deck.

You’ll also want to trek to Puerto Amparo during your time on the is-land. It’s only a 30 – 40 minute hike, but you may spend at least that long, finding the trail. The dense vegetation of the Valdivian forest tends to grow over quickly so pay at-tention along the way. The trail begins be-hind the community center and ends at the beach, winding its way through an area with the greatest diversity of flora of the entire Region. If you have the chance, take along a local who can show you the way and explain the names of plants and birds you encounter. At the beach, there are great picnic spots and a soccer field where the community gets together for local competitions.

Circling the peninsula in a small boat or kayak is also a lot of fun. The area is well protected from strong winds and waves and you’ll see lots of sea life, including mussels, sea urchins, starfish and other mollusks. Although it’s tempting to collect and eat a few clams or mussels, remember that red tide has con-taminated some of the shellfish in this area and since there’s no testing facility or health-care on the island, you would be taking an ENORMOUS risk.

If you want to go to learn about the cave of San Andrés, believed to have been a refuge for nomadic chono canoe people who once inhabited this area, talk with local captains and organize an excursion. Another great excursion visits the María Isabel Islets, home to a variety of sea birds like pelicans, cormo-rants and seagulls. Bring your bird guides, binoculars and cameras because you’ll see thousands and thousands! Behind the first islet there’s a great place for viewing sea lions


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– you’ll encounter several families resting and playing on the rocks. Don’t be surprised if they swim over to check you out – they are quite curious and will want to know who the stranger is invading their peaceful world!

In spite of the challenges and logistics, a visit

» Type of activity: Visit to Puerto Gav-iota. » Start: Take a boat from Puerto Cisnes or Puerto Chacabuco. » End: Puerto Gaviota » Distance: From Puerto Cisnes, the navigation to Puerto Gaviota is ap-proximately 65 km, each way. » Duration of the activity: A few days or a few weeks; it’s up to you. » Seasonality: Year round. » Specialties Considerations: Coordi-nate your visit based on the itineraries of the boat option you elect, allowing plenty of time for unexpected delays. You can obtain more information about the island on Facebook: Puerto Gaviota XI Region. » Reservations: • To get to Puerto Gaviota, you

can travel via ferry (www.na-

OVERVIEWvieraustral.cl), or contract one of the boat transport services that operate from Puerto Cisnes: Oscar Barría, (09) 82139452; Juan Carlos Torres, (09) 82400063, [email protected]; Arturo Ruiz, (09) 95030057, [email protected]; or Clau-dio Matamala, (09) 87428544, c laudiomatsalazar@gmail .com.

• For your lodging and other logis-tics, contact the island in advance using the satellite phone (562) 19629586, located in the store, “San Pedro”, owned by Don Jorge Hernandez, or Don Miguel Acos-ta’s Amparo Base repeater, (067) 2361350. You may need to call several times before successfully connecting, but, keep trying! Ei-ther of these contacts can coor-dinate your accommodation and other needs.

to Puerto Gaviota has the potential for pro-viding some of the most incredible moments and memories of your trip to Patagonia, of-fering you the chance to truly escape the fast pace of the modern world and disconnect, rediscovering simple pleasures and joy.


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AMONGST THE LUSH RAIN

FORESTS AND UNPREDICTABLE

WATERS OF HUICHAS

In the middle of the tangled geography of channels and islands of the southern Pacific there are a group of beautiful islands known as the Huichas. Here, set amongst lush rain forests and unpredictable waters, you can explore the tiny communities of Puerto Aguirre, Caleta Andrade and Estero Cup. The Huichas Islands are beautiful, teeming with native forest that extends from their highest points all the way to the sea. Here, there are plenty of hidden coves to explore, beautiful shell-lined trails to walk and lots of interesting people who love sharing their crafts and traditions with curious visitors.

The most direct way to reach the Huichas Is-lands is from Puerto Chacabuco, aboard the “Shaker”, which departs from the Emporcha Artisan Fishing Docks, or the Naviera Austral ferry, which departs from the Ferry Terminal, as part of the Cordillera Route. Either way, you’ll navigate approximately four hours be-tween channels, f jords and landscapes filled with abundant native forests, before arriving at the docks in Puerto Aguirre.

Here, you’ll find hostels, pensions, a couple of restaurants and bars and lots of fun adventures and excursions so plan to stay at least a couple of days!Depending on the day, you may arrive to what appears to be a quiet coast where the sea barely moves and the islands are per-fectly reflected in its waters, but don’t be fooled! The water around these islands can turn rough, as rough as the open sea. That is why most of the people in these Islands live in Puerto Aguirre, Caleta Andrade and Estero Copa, all located along the southern side of the Island, which is protected from the strong winds. When you arrive in Puerto Aguirre, you’ll likely be a bit amazed at the ingenuity locals have shown with the manner in which they have built their homes into the steep slopes in the middle of dense native forest. It’s amazing what you can figure out in order to keep safe from gale-force winds!

The residents of these islands LOVE the sea


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There are two boats that travel reg-ularly between Puerto Chacabuco and the Huichas Islands, the Jacaf fer-ry owned by Naviera Austral ((067) 2351493; www.navieraustral.cl) and the Shaker, owned by Juan Hala-bi ((067) 2333609; aysé[email protected]). Both ships travel only a few times per week and have limited space so, reserve in advance and buy round trip tickets.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

and their independence. They don’t mind liv-ing in isolated conditions because they are brave, resourceful and self-sufficient. Early settlers arrived more than 100 years ago, from Chiloé, in search of Guaitecas Cypress. They found plenty and much more in these islands and waters. Over the years the pri-mary economic activity has shifted from for-estry to small-scale fishing and the collection and production of smoked mussels, (there is a canning factory on the island), and more recently, salmon farming.

There are several things to do in the Hui-chas. Walk around Puerto Aguirre and check out the local architecture, especially the hand-crafted wooden shingles, called tejuelas that are characteristic of the town. If you keep heading uphill, you’ll soon reach the highest point in the town, where you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic panoramic view of the nearby islands and fjords. It’s a great spot to rest for a while and put your camera to work!

There is a great trail in Puerto Aguirre, called The Poza, located as you head out of town towards Estero Copa and Caleta Andrade. Keep watch on the right hand side for the small wooden gate marking the start of this beautiful trail lined with crushed white shells to mark your way, along with a series of in-formative panels that explain the flora, fauna and history of the Huichas Islands. You’ll pass through lush, dense forest before arriving at a pond, where there are quinchos to protect you from the frequent rain of the area. It’s a perfect place to prepare a picnic and await the frequent visits of local fauna like falcons and other local birds, river otters and even dolphins. It is truly a magical place to relax and observe in peace.

Another fascinating experience awaits you along the waterfront in Caleta Andrete, where the traditional art of hand crafted boat building is still alive and well. You can watch and learn this trade, observing the beautiful work of Don Juan Guenten, who was born in Chiloé and began building boats and sailboats at the age of 13, with his fa-ther. He uses Guaitecas cypress, which is abundant in the Huichas Islands, because it is the most water resistant of native woods. Kayak excursions through the small channels between the islands are also possible to ar-range along this waterfront. Get ready for a close up view of dolphins and hundreds of seabirds.


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» Type of activity: Visit to the Huichas Islands. » Start: Puerto Chacabuco. » End: Puerto Aguirre. » Distance: Depends on the circuit that you choose but you can ex-plore all of the populated areas of the Island walking no more than 3 – 5 kilometers. » Duration: 2 - 3 days, plus 8 hours round trip, navigating. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: There is no fresh water in the Huichas Islands. Habitants collect and use rain wa-ter (which is frequent), however, taking a shower is almost impos-sible. Plan accordingly and please, conserve your use of the limited water available. Carry your rain gear – you will need it! » Reservations: Reserve in advance:• Hostal Don Beña - Puerto

Aguirre; (067) 2361248; (09) 93182392; [email protected].

• Cabanas Aysén - Puerto Agu-irre; (067) 2361278; (09) 78031707 - 76419566; [email protected].

• Hospedaje Las Huaitecas - Puerto Aguirre; (067) 2361459; [email protected].

• Pachanca Kayak - Caleta An-drade; Christopher Cerda; (09) 92163339; Facebook: guacho.matero.

OVERVIEW


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A DELICIOUS RECIPE FOR

GREAT TIMES BETWEEN FRIENDS

Paella is a delicious dish of Spanish origin which has the added bonus of being able to be modified depending on the ingredients that exist in a particular area. This version emerged amongst a group of friends and residents of the fjords and channels of Aysén, who were celebrating a long weekend. They succeeded in having a great time and making a special dish that was unforgettable. Now it’s your turn!

Every year small groups of young Chilean professionals come to Aysén to better un-derstand the realities of life in the more isolated areas of their country. They are as-signed to work in the small towns and rural areas of the region, using their professional talents and skills to assist with community development. They work for the Nation-al Foundation for Overcoming Poverty, as participants in the program, Servicio País (Service to Country), an important program that has had a presence in the Fjords and Channels Area and each of the other four Cultural Areas of Aysén, since 1995.

The program works because participants do not come to impose their ideas in a one-size-fits-all fashion; rather, they adapt their styles and ideas to the realities of their environ-ment in order to promote the potential that is already present in the region’s communi-ties. And of course, in a short period of time, many of them become part of their commu-nity; some have even stayed for good, form-ing families and changing the course of their own lives and others.

What does all this have to do with a reci-pe for paella? Well, one year (not too long ago), a group of Servicio País professionals working in the fjords and channels of Aysén, joined together with their friends in the community and with colleagues in other ar-eas, and created an amazing feast. Everyone brought something from their local area. Folks from the fjords and channels brought seafood. Others came from Coyhaique, with rice, artisan beer and wine. Still more showed up from La Junta, with fresh vegeta-bles, chicken, smoked pork and chorizo sau-


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» Ingredients:• 1/2 Kg of mussels, well-washed,

with their shells still intact. You can also use frozen, if necessary

• 1 Kg regional chorizo sausage, cut into slices. You can sauté these be-fore adding to the paella, to get rid of excess fat

• 1 kg of smoked pork ribs• 1 kg of chicken thighs or wings• 1 kg of white rice, grade 1• 6-8 cups of hot chicken broth• 1-2 cups of wine Chilean white• 1 large onion, chopped fine• 4 garlic cloves, crushed• 2 chopped red bell peppers, with

the seeds removed• 1/2 - 1 kg of peas• 1/2 cup of olive oil• 0.25 gr of saffron (or up to 3 table-

spoons, if there are some Span-

RECIPE FOR PAELLA AYSÉNINA (8 - 12 SERVINGS):iards in your group)

• 4 tablespoons of paprika• 2 tablespoon of oregano• Salt to taste » Preparation• Sauté the onions in the oil and

then add the rice, stirring until all of the rice is coated with the oil. Add the hot broth, mixed with the wine and saffron. Incorporate the chopped garlic, paprika, red peppers, oregano and salt. Mix well. Layer the chicken, ribs, and chorizo sausage over the rice and cover the pan. Bake (225˚C) for approximately 20 minutes. Un-cover, add the peas and stir every-thing to mix, prior to layering the seafood on top. Recover and cook for 10 - 15 minutes more. Presto! Time to enjoy.

sages. With all the helpers, celebration and great ingredients, they created an exquisite paella Aysénina, mixing the fresh products of the area with the collaborative spirit of its people.

Now, we invite you to try this recipe; but a word of advice, the most critical of all the ingredients are friendship and a spirit of cele-bration. You can ad lib all the rest!


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» Activity Type: Gastronomy. Oppor-tunity to share with your friends pre-paring a paella Aysénina. » Start: At the local fish markets, butch-er shops and produce fairs of the area. » End: Sharing the work of washing the dishes over a glass of wine or a beer. » Duration of the activity: An after-noon and evening complete. » Seasonality: Year round. » Considerations: You need a very large pot with a lid, preferably a skillet or a paella pan, for cooking and serving your paella. You can replace almost all of the ingredients with substitutes, but saffron is essential to the flavor of a paella. Remember that you should only consume certified seafood pur-chased in established shops during your visit to Aysén. » Reservations: You won’t need reser-vations, but some insider tips for your purchases might help. For seafood, try Moraleda Seafood Shop: located on the waterfront, in front of the Guairao Restaurant, this market be-longs to the Cooperative of Moraleda Independent Fisheries Workers (STI Moraleda), of Puerto Cisnes. Anoth-er good option is Promar Seafood Shop: - Coyhaique: Located on Lauta-ro Street #780; Hours: 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 18:00, Monday to Satur-day. If you are looking for fresh meats and chorizos in the area, you can visit (among others): Carnicería Ganader-os on Avenida Ogana #1035; Carnes Fuenzalida, Avenida Francisco Bilbao #1546, Coyhaique; Supermercado El Arriero, Coyhaique, Calle Presidente Errázuriz #1755, (067) 2237947 or

OVERVIEWin front of Sodimac in Avenida Oga-na #825. For vegetables, we suggest (among others): • The Women’s Agricultural Club of

the Valleys Weekly Vegetable Fair- La Junta: Located in the commu-nity center. Hours: Fridays, 09.00 - 11:00 am, year round; President: Frances Solis; (09) 61776894; [email protected]

• Coyhaique Horticultural Fair: Corner of Los Coigües and Las Quintas, every Saturday of the year president: Amanda Rivera Foitzick.

• La Granja Municipal de la Agrupación de Horticultores, a community farm located on Car-los Soto Street, (067) 2423365: Carlos Soza S/N (next to the Ro-deo Arena), Monday - Saturday, all year round; Contact: Prodesal of Ibáñez; [email protected]

• Horticultural Fair - Women’s Ag-ricultural Club of the Bahia Jara Valley - Chile Chico: Hours: 10:00 - 12:00, on Wednesday, on the south side of the supermarket, Bernardo O’Higgins Street and Saturdays in the Construction Workers Union Building located in José Miguel Carrera S/N next to the Flea Market of Patagonia; contact: Municipality of Chile Chico, [email protected], (067) 2411295

• Tamango Municipal Market of Cochrane: located in Vicente Pre-viske Park. Monday to Saturday, year round; Contact: Municipality of Cochrane; Emerald 398; [email protected]


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The flora and fauna that you may see include: Algae: Forest kelp (Macrocystis sp.); Sea lettuce (Ulva lactuca); Gummy lichen or Irish moss (Chondrus crispus); Spoon Luga or Short Luga (Mazzaella laminarioides); Black or Curly Luga (Sarcothalia crispata); Red Luga (Gigartina skottsbergii); Pelillo (Gracilaria chilensis)

Trees and shrubs: Arrayán (Luma apiculata); Chilco (Fuchsia magellanica); Guaitecas Cypress (Pilgerodendron uviferum); Coigüe Chiloé (Nothofagus nitida); Luma (Amomyrtus luma); Sharp leaf Mañío (Podocarpus nubigenus); Michay (Berberis ilicifolia); Tepa (Laureliopsis philipiana); Tepu (Tepualia stipularis); Tineo or Palo Santo (Weinnmania trichosperma)

Flowers and Canes: Astelia (Astelia pumila); Quila Cane or bamboo (Chusquea quila); Coicopihue (Philesia magellanica); Wild strawberries (Fragaria Chiloénsis); Juncillo Reed (Marsippospermum grandiflorum); Manila (Eryngium paniculatum); Panguecito or Devil’s Strawberry (Gunnera magellanica); Scotch Broom (Spartium junceum - introduced); Swamp Violet (Drosera uniflora)

Mosses, Fungi and Ferns: Ampe or palmita fern (cuadripinnata quadripinnata); Cow’s rib fern (Blechnum chilense); Fuinque (Lomatia ferruginea); Grand palmetto fern (blech-num magellanicum); Film Fern (Hymenophyllum dentatum o Hymenophyllum pectinatum); Feather Fern (Blechnum penna - marina); Pinito moss (Dendroligotrichum dendroides); Nalca or pangue (Gunnera tinctoria); Palmita (Lycopodium paniculatum); Palomita (Codonorchis lessonii); Frog’s Umbrella (Hypopterygium arbuscula); Topa topa or Capachito (Calceolaria tenella); Pot Herb or Palmita (Gleichenia quadripartita)

Amphibians: Austral Litter Frog (Eupsophus calcaratus); Mottled Frog (Batrachyla leptopus); Darwin’s Frog (Rhinoderma darwinii); Variegated Leaf Toad (Nannophryne variegata)

Birds: Black-browed albatross (Thalassarche melanophrys); Salvin Albatross (Thalassarche (cauta) salvini); Wandering albatross (Diomedea exulans); Northern Royal Albatross (Diomedea

BIODIVERSITY IN THE FJORDS & CHANNELS AREA


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(epomophora) sanfordi); Southern Royal Albatross (Diomedea (epomophora) epomophora); Bandurria (Theristicus melanopis or Theristicus caudatus); Caiquen or Canquen (Chloegphaga picta or Chloegphaga poliocephala); Caranca (Chloephaga hybrida); Carancho or caracara falcon (Phalcoboenus albogularis); Chucao (Scelorchilus rubecola); Magellanic cormorant or rock shag (Phalacrocorax magellanicus); Imperial cormorant (Phalacrocorax atriceps); White puffin (Puffinus creatopus); Little puffin (Puffinus assimilis); New Zealand puffin (Procellaria westlandica); Black bellied puffin (Puffinus griseus); Giant black puffin (Procellaria aequinoctialis); Gull (Larus scoresbii); Brown gull (Larus maculipennis); Franklin’s Gull (Larus pipixcan); Grey gull or gaviota garuma (Larus modestus); Dominican gull or kelp gull (Larus Dominicanus); Elegant tern (Sterna elegans); South American tern (Sterna hirundinacea); Storm-petrel (Oceanites oceanicus); Red-legged cormorant or Lile (Phalacrocorax gaimardi); Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata); Peruvian pelican (Pelecanus thagus); Southern giant petrel Macronectes giganteus); Subantarctic giant petrel Macronectes halli); Silver petrel (Fulmarus glacialoides); Nazca Booby (Sula variegata); Flightless steamer duck (Tachyeres pteneres ); Flying steamer duck (Tachyeres patachonicus); Chilean skua (Stercorarius chilensis); Tero (Vanellus chilensis); Guanay cormorant (Phalacrocorax olivaceus or Phalacrocorax brasilianus); Magellan diving petrel (Pelecanoides magellani); Snowy Egret or Garza chica (Egretta thula)

Marine Mammals: Blue whale (Balaenoptera musculus); Fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus); Southern right whale (Eubalaena australis); Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae); Antarctic minke whale (Balaenoptera bonaerensis); Sei whale (Balaenoptera borealis); Sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus); Marine otter (Lontra felina); Southern dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis); Chilean dolphin (Cephalorhynchus eutropia); Risso’s dolphin (Grampus griseus); Southern right whale dolphin (Lissodelphis peronii); Dusky Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus obscurus); False killer whale (Pseudorca crassidens); Southern River otter (Lontra provocax); Southern fur seal (Arctocephalus australis); Common sea lion (Otaria flavescens); Espinosa harbor porpoise (Phocoena spinipinnis); Orca (Orcinus orca ); Tursion (Tursiops truncatus); European mink (Mustela lutreola - introduced)

Fish, Mollusks and Crustaceans: Cod (Gadus morhua); Dog winkles or Rock shells snail (Thais chocolata ); Palo palo snail (Argobuccinum argus cymatiidae); Spider crab (Lithodes santolla); Cholga mussel (Aulacomya ater); Chilean mussel (Mytilus chilensis); Choro zapato (Choromytilus chorus); Cojinoba of the north (Schedophilus haedrichi); Cojinoba of the south (Austral cojinoba); Pink cusk-eel (Genypterus blacodes); Purple Sea Urchin (Paracentrotus lividus); Marmola crab (Cancer edwarsi); Loco (Concholepas); Pink clam or surf clam (Mesodesma donacium); Southern hake or Austral Merluza (Merluccius cephalus); Hoki (Macruronus magellanicus); Mero (Epinephelus marginatus); Common Galaxias or Inanga or Puye (Galaxias maculatus); Skate or Stingray (Dipturus trachyderma); Kite Skate or Stingray (Zearaja chilensis); Chinook salmon (Onchorhynchus body - Introduced); Coho Salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch - Introduced); Taca/Clam (Protothaca thaca); Spiny dogfish (Squalus acanthias)


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Fjords & Channels Cultural Area (Aysén, an Undiscovered Patagonia)

Documents

fjords of aysn

channels of aysn

couple of days

fjords channels cultural

travelersmy dad

dreaded day

palena queulat area

day average excursions