Findings

Findings

Every piece of jewellery need a finding in order for it to function and be uses, pendants need bails and jump rings to sit on a chain and lockets need hinges to open and close. Earring need posts and butterflies to sit on your ear and stones need settings to keep them in place. The list for finding goes on and on and each finding has its own size and shape, the rule of thumb for making findings is form meets function, meaning as long as the finding works for that particular piece of jewellery and the client is happy with it, it works.

Finding are however split into three categories,:1) Functional findings- they are just there to serve a purpose2) Decorative findings- they add to the look of the jewellery,

and enhance its beauty3) Hybrid findings- are both functional and decorative

Functional Jewellery Findings

Decorative Jewellery Findings

Hybrid Jewellery Findings

HINGES

BAILS

COLLETS

Crimp beads

Wire Gauge ChartSWG – Standard Wire GaugeAWG - American Wire Gauge

Gauge SWG (Inches) SWG (mm) AWG

(Inches) AWG (mm)

12 0.104" 2.64mm 0.0808" 2.05mm

14 0.080" 2.03mm 0.0641" 1.63mm

16 0.064" 1.63mm 0.0508" 1.29mm

18 0.048" 1.22mm 0.0403" 1.02mm

20 0.036" 0.91mm 0.0320" 0.81mm

22 0.028" 0.71mm 0.0253" 0.64mm

24 0.022" 0.56mm 0.0201" 0.51mm

Wire Gauge System:Just to confuse us a little further there are two wire gauge charts and they are both currently in use. We however mainly use the AWG (American Wire Gauge) to prevent any confusion it is recommended to always state the wire gauge and the diameter in millimetres.

Earring posts:Standard length :11mm , 2mm groove from the back (to hold the butterfly on)Standard Width: 0.7mm – mass produced pieces ( they can afford to be thinner as it is usually plated metal so it is a lot stronger therefore doesn't need to be thinker to have more strength.Standard Width: 0.9mm – (hand made jewellery)

Standard earring post width

The dimensions for quality posts are:A. Post diameter – 0.85 mm. This diameter will hold up well and not distort under normal wear.

B. Post length – 11 mm. This length will fit most earlobes nicely without being too long.

C. The locking notch should be set in about 2mm from the end and should be smooth.

D. The tip should be smooth, well-rounded and highly polished.

Earring Posts and Butterflies

4.5mm – 9mm

11.5mm( height: 6.3mm)

Wire Size Diameter in Millimetres

What It's Good For Making:

14 ga 1.65 mm • clasps /thick jump rings /chain maille jewellery /neck rings

• bangle bracelets /substantial formed links /eye pins for beads with very large holes

16 ga 1.3 mm • clasps /thick jump rings /chain maille jewellery /neck rings

• bangle bracelets /substantial formed links /eye pins for beads with large holes

18 ga 1.0 mm more delicate clasps /jump rings /formed links /eye pins, head pins

wire-wrapping /ear-wires (though 20 gauge is more common)

fits through most bead holes

20 ga 0.8 mm jump rings /delicate formed links /eye pins /head pins /wire-wrapped links /split-rings /ear wires /fits through most bead holes

21 ga 0.75 mm many people buy this odd size gauge specifically for making ear wires

22 ga 0.65 mm wire-wrapping /wire-wrapped head-pins /wire-wrapped eye-pins /fits through almost all bead holes

24 ga 0.5 mm standard size for wire-wrapped bead links and head pins

wire-wrapping /fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge fits through almost all of these.

26 ga 0.4 mm for wire crochet /wire-wrapped bead links and head pins

wire-wrapping /fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge should fit through all of these.

28 ga 0.32 mm for wire crochet /wire-wrapping /wire-weaving.

Jump Rings

Jump RingDiameter Wire Gauge Mandrel

4 mm 20 ga. (0.75 mm) 2.5 mm

5 mm 20 ga. (0.75 mm) 3.5 mm

5 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 3 mm

6 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 4 mm

6.5 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 4 mm

7 mm 18 ga. 1 mm) 5 mm

7 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 4.5 mm

7.5 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 5 mm

8 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 6 mm

9 mm 18 ga. (1 mm) 7 mm

9 mm 16 ga. (1.25 mm) 6.5 mm

9 mm 14 ga. (1.5 mm) 6 mm

12.5 mm 14 ga. (1.5 mm) 9.5 mm

Jump Ring Sizes

Jump Ring Tools

Great way to cut jump rings neatly and straight.

Shepherd Hooks

Cuff links: Double faced : identical faces, metal linksChain Link(Shackled) : similar to the Double faced but linked with chain and can be reversible.Ball Return: fixed backHinged back( bullet) : most commonly produced, most secure and easy on the fingersSnap on: two separate pieces lock and snap together.Fixed back: line the ball return, one solid piece. Difficult to get on but once its on its not going anywhere.Silk Knott (monkey fists):traditionally made from silk they are now mainly made with elasticised fabric, they are very popular as they come in many colours and are the most affordable of all cuff links.Stirrup: wrap around the cuff, bold and pronounced so not popular with a lot of people.

Double Faced Cufflinks

Chain-link Cufflinks

Ball Return

Hinged Back Cufflinks

Snap on Cufflinks

Fixed Backing

Silk Knots Cufflinks

Stirrups Cufflinks

Normal Shirt Button Sizes

13/14 L - Collar Buttons 15L/16L- Sleeve Placket Buttons 17L/18L - Shirt Front Button 19L/20L- Sport Shirt Front Button

15 L

16 L