N. 11 File Duster/belted jacket/pants ensemble Gianfranco Ferré Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 1984 GIANFRANCO FERRE/MADE IN ITALY, Duster: Mod. 4710 des. 342 Gray wool gabardine, gray leather, metal buckle covered with gray leather Full straight mannish ¾ duster with kimono sleeves. Lapel collar, insert pockets, no fastening. Straight mannish jacket with lapel collar, side slits, insert breast pocket, no fastening. Padded shoulders, kimono sleeves. Completing it low-slung on hips is a wide (13 cm) topstitched belt with leather-covered metal buckle. The mannish pants with tucks at waist have slit insert pockets and single pressed crease. On the catwalk the ensemble also included a white collarless crossover blouse. For spring ’84 Italian fashion features full flat shapes, shoulders all the broader and padded. While in essence perfectably wearable clothes for upper middle-class career women, they also begin to reflect the new looks shown a year earlier by the Japanese designers in Paris. Ferré, an undisputed protagonist of the “Made in Italy” phenomenon, presents the new trend with (among others) items such as this: a soft mannish outfit in a simple gray gabardine. Actually, the style of the blouse/jacket/duster mix creates a kimono effect heightened by the broad belt capturing a Western idea of the obi. The interplay of contrasts – East/West, masculine/feminine, casual/chic – makes for a new take on the pantsuit. 02/09/2009 42 (10) Designer Collection Season Year Label Inventory Materials Working processes Description Remarks Italian Vogue, June 1984 issue Bibliography Exhibitions Present location Acquisition Enrica Morini Author of file Date of file Size Sources Picture Object 1 Look Pg. # 1 Printed on 2-1-2010 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved