Fibers - a fibers 4 - iTextiles...Wool o Fiber from sheep, lamb, Angora goat, Cashmere goat o May include specialty fibers from camel, alpaca, llama, vicuna Recycled Wool o Fiber obtained
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WoolWool
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Wool - hair from the fleece of sheep or lambs
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Specialty wool – hair from goats, camels, alpacas, llamas, yak
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Fur fiber – hair from fur bearing animals such as angora rabbits, minks, beavers, and sheepdogs
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All of the above categories are broadly defined as wool fibers under Wool Product Labeling Act
o Descriptors (e.g., lambs’ wool, cashmere, virgin wool) can be used if fibers meet the requirements
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Fiber length, color, and fineness vary considerably based on animal breed
o Fiber from sheep, lamb, Angora goat, Cashmere goat
o May include specialty fibers from camel, alpaca, llama, vicuna
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Recycled Wool
o Fiber obtained from woven or felted wool, never having been utilized in any way by the ultimate consumer
o Fiber obtained from spun, woven, knitted, or felted wool product, after having been used in some way by the ultimate consumer.
Source - U.S.C. 15 Section 68 –Definitions
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Lambs' Wool
o Very soft wool from lambs under seven months old
o Natural tapered tip
o Very fine diameter
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Virgin or New
o Wool that is used for the first time
o Not reclaimed or reused
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Cashmere
o From cashmere goat
o Meets diameter requirements
o Not all fibers from cashmere goats can be labeled as cashmere
lamb’s wool fiber wool fiber
tapered tip
cut tip
TerminologyTerminology
Presenter
Presentation Notes
The softness of wool is also dependent on the breed, as well as the area of the body from which the fiber was shorn. Therefore, the lambs’ wool fiber would be softer than regular wool obtained from the same breed of animal. In general, fibers from the middle section of the animal (the “blanket”) are softer than those from locations near the neck, tail or legs. According to WPL a wool product is misbranded as cashmere if “(A) such wool product is not the fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger); (B) the average diameter of the fiber of such wool product exceeds 19 microns; or (C) such wool product contains more than 3 percent (by weight) of cashmere fibers with average diameters that exceed 30 microns.” Source - U.S.C. 15 Section 68b(a)(6). Microscopic analysis is typically done to determine if the fibers meet the WPL requirements.
Fiber StructureFiber Structure
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Surface Contour (longitudinal view)
o Surface scales
o Shape and size of scales vary by breed
o Hollow medulla running along the interior length of the fiber
o Visible using a microscope
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Shape (cross-section)
o round/oval cross-section
medullascales
Courtesy CISRO, Australia
Color, Crimp, and LusterColor, Crimp, and Luster
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Color depends on breed
o Sheep and lamb fibers - typically off-white, require bleaching
o Camel hair – brown
o Specialty wools and fur fibers - white, gray, brown, or black
o Naturally colored wool does not require bleaching or dyeing
Wool absorbs moisture vapor generated by the body, helping to maintain even body temperature. It is a hygroscopic fiber. Once wet, wool conducts heat away from the body. Few people are truly allergic to wool; some are allergic to lanolin.
Felting is undesirable if an item is laundered incorrectly and it shrinks. The fulling process is a finishing treatment in which wool fabrics are compacted by controlled felting. Wool fibers can be felted and molded into hats.
End UsesEnd Uses
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Apparel
o Winter clothing
o Hats that are molded to shape
o Men's all-weather and winter suits
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Textiles for Interiors
o Hand-woven area carpets and rugs
o Upholstered furniture
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Household & Institutional Textiles
o Blankets
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Technical Textiles
o Industrial felts
o Billiard and pool table covers
Care of WoolCare of Wool
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Dry clean
o To avoid felting shrinkage, except for washable wool
o Not damaged by dry cleaning solvents
o Damaged by enzyme spot cleaners
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Detergents with high alkalinity may damage the fibers
o Care instructions should be followed
o Wash with a mild detergent such as Woolite®
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Damaged by chlorine bleach
o Oxygen-type bleaches may be used
Care of WoolCare of Wool
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Requires little or no ironing
o Steaming preferable
o Steam-ironed at the recommended temperature, with a damp press cloth placed over the fabric
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Prone to damage by moths
o Use moth balls with caution
o Some carpets and rugs may be treated with mothproof finishes
SilkSilk
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Silk is the only natural fiber available in filament form
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Referred to as the “queen of fibers,” silk is known for its luxurious appearance
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Silk production, or sericulture, is labor-intensive
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The majority of silk is produced in South and Far East Asia
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The filaments are made of a protein called fibroin; the gum, which is often removed, is called sericin. Silk fabric with sericin is known as raw silk.
Types of SilkTypes of Silk
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Silkworms extrude two strands of silk fiber, held together by a natural gum, to form cocoons
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Bombyx mori silkworms - cultivated silk
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Tussah, Eri, and Muga - wild silk
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Peace silk and ahimsa silk - produced without killing the silkworm
Silk GradesSilk Grades
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Cocoons unraveled to yield filament silk
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Dupion or doupioni silk - from cocoons that became tangled while they were spun.
o Variable areas where the yarn is thicker due to the inseparable entangled filaments
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Spun silk - filament fibers from cocoons damaged by the emerging silk moth
o Less expensive and less lustrous than filament silk
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Waste silk/silk noil - fibers that cannot be reeled
o Lower quality, spun silk yarns
doupioni
Silk Grades
yarn with silk filaments
yarn with doupioni silk (entangled fibers from two cocoons)
silk noil and yarn spun with silk noil
Surface Contour and ShapeSurface Contour and Shape