“Thisbookisforyouwhetheryou’reawell-seasonedpickleproorakitchennovicereadytodipatoeintothebrinywatersoffermentationathome.Withclear,conciseinformationandahealthydoseofgeekyscience,AmandaFeiferbringsnewideastoigniteyourpicklepassion.
Fermentednuts?Sauerkrauteggs?Fizzycornonthecob?Yes,please!”
—KARENSOLOMON,AUTHOROFASIANPICKLESANDJAMIT,PICKLEIT,CUREIT
“Amanda’sconstantenthusiasmandthoughtfulnesshasinspiredtheteamatHighStreetonMarkettobecomemoreconfidentandunderstandingoffermentation.Nowthatsame
enthusiasmandthoughtfulnessisavailabletoeveryoneinFermentYourVegetables.Microbeshaveneverhadabetterambassador.”
—ELIKULP,EXECUTIVECHEF,HIGHSTREETONMARKET,FORKRESTAURANT,ANDA.KITCHEN+BAR
“Fullofenticingphotosandsolidtechniques,FermentYourVegetablesremovesanyfearaboutfermentationandreplacesitwithfun!Brimmingwithpracticaladviceandcreativeflavor
combinations,Feifer’sbookisamust-readforanyonewhoenjoysfermentedfoods.”
—ALLYSONKRAMER,AUTHOROFGREATGLUTEN-FREEVEGANEATS
“WithFermentYourVegetables,AmandaFeiferdemystifiesthetrickieraspectsoffermentingathomeandgivesusallthetoolsweneedtoconfidentlygoforthwithourownfermentationexperiments.Hersmall-batchpicklingrecipesareperfectforusingupanoverlyabundant
CSAshare,andtheyshowusthatpicklingcanbeapartofoureverydaycooking.”
—EMMACHRISTENSEN,RECIPEEDITORFORTHEKITCHNANDAUTHOROFTRUEBREWSANDBREWBETTERBEER
“DevoureverypageofFermentYourVegetablesandyouwillberewardedwithideasandrecipestokeepyoufermentingforyears.Everythingyouneedtoknowiscovered,evenifyour
microbialadventureshaveonlyjustbegun.”
—BRANDENBYERS,AUTHOROFTHEEVERYDAYFERMENTATIONHANDBOOK
“FermentYourVegetablesoffersclear,conciseinstructionsformakingyourownpickles,sauerkraut,kimchi,andmore.Thebook’ssmall-batchapproachmakesthepracticeofvegetablepreservationaccessibletoeveryone,withwildlycreative,playfulrecipes!”
—LEDASCHEINTAUB,AUTHOROFCULTUREDFOODSFORYOURKITCHEN
FERMENTyour
VEGETABLES
AmandaFeifer
ContentsIntroduction
PartI :GETTINGSTARTEDWITHFERMENTATION
PartII :SMALL-BATCHLACTICACIDFERMENTATION
Chapter1:Pickles
Chapter2:Kraut
Chapter3:Kimchi
Chapter4:Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments
Chapter5:Kvass
PartIII :ALTERNATIVEAPPROACHESTOVEGETABLEFERMENTATION
Chapter6:FermentinginCrocks
Chapter7:No-Salt-AddedFerments
Chapter8:Tsukemono,SunPickles,andOtherPathstoCulturedVegetables
Resources
Appendix
Bibliography
Acknowledgments
AbouttheAuthor
Index
IntroductionTheactofvegetablefermentationisoftenaseasyaschoppingavegetable,puttingitinajar,pouringinsomesaltbrine,andwaiting.
Yetforallitspracticalsimplicity,fermentationisalsoamazinglymeaningfulandcomplexwhenconsideredfromapolitical,social,orphilosophicalperspective.Fermentationisempowerment.Theactofdecidingtofermentone’sfoodcanbepolitical.Itsaysnotofastfoodandyestotheideathatgoodthingscometothosewhowait.Itsaysnotoraging,baselessbacteria-phobiaandyestoappreciatingthatwemaynotyetunderstandallthatthemicrobialworldhastooffer.Itacceptsthatinnovationandexplorationareimportantinaprogressivesociety,butalsothattherearelessonstobelearnedfromthepast.Itsaysnotoingredientliststhatrequireachemistrydegreetounderstandandyestofoodswithknockoutflavorsandsimpleingredients.
Justsaltandvegetables,whenfermented,giveussomuchmorethanthesumoftheirparts.Theygiveussauerkraut,pickles,kimchi,andmore.Theygiveushighervitaminoutputthantherewasinput.Theygiveusabundantprobioticsandspecializedenzymesthat,researcherscontinuetofind,doallsortsofunimaginablygoodthingsforourbodies,andevenfightspecificdiseases.Undeniably,theygiveusflavorsthattastelikenothingelse,flavorsthatcan’tbereplicatedbychemicaladditivesortheadditionofvinegarandspices.
Thisbookisintendedasaroadmaptofermentingyourownvegetablesathome.Ihopethatitcalmsanyfearsyoumighthaveaboutthesafetyofthisextraordinarilysafeprocess.Ihopeitshowsyouthat,bybeingflexibleandexploratory,youcanexperiencebothincreasedhealthandpleasurefromyourfood.Ihope,too,thatitwillinspireyoutotrynotonlytheserecipesbutalsotointroduceyourownfavoriteflavorsintofuturebatchesofkrautandkimchi.Ihopethatitexcitesyouandincitesyoutoexplorefoodthroughtheworldofferments.Mostofall,Ihopethatitshowsyouthatfermentationisfun!
GettingStartedwithFermentation
Thebuildingblocksandbasictechniquesofpracticalvegetablefermentationarecoveredinthissection,whichisintendedtobeareferencepointfortheentirebook.I’lllayoutthebasicaspectsoffermentingvegetables,showyouwhatyouneed,andaddresscommonconcerns.
Ifyou’renewtovegetablefermentation,understandingtheconceptsoutlinedinthissectionwillilluminatethestep-by-stepprocessoffermentingandgiveyouanappreciationforwhatisactuallyhappeninginthejarorcrock.Thisistheplacetoansweranynitty-grittyquestionsyouhaveaboutprocessandtofindoutexactlywhyyoushouldjointhegrowingmovementofhomefermenters.
WhatIsFermentation?Vegetablefermentationisthetransformationofarawvegetableintosomethinginfinitelyhealthierandmoredelicious.Lacticacidfermentation,theprimaryfermentationprocesscoveredinthisbook,transformsvegetablesintopickleswithoutevenadropofaddedvinegar.
Thistransformationoweseverythingtothemicrobesinthesoilandsugarsnaturallypresentinthevegetables.Thesoilisrichwithbacteria.Whenvegetablesareharvested,theycomeoutofthegroundcoveredinbacteria,includingasmallpopulationoflacticacidbacteria(LAB,frequentlyreferredtoasprobioticbacteria)ontheirskinsandpeels.Thesebacteria,giventherightconditions,willkickstartfermentationbyfeastingonavegetable’snatural
sugarsandconvertingthemintoavarietyofthings,includinglacticacid,carbondioxide(CO2),andevenaverysmallamountofalcohol.
Therightconditionsforlacto-fermentationarequitesimpletoprovide:anenvironmentwithlittleornooxygenandsufficienttimeatroomtemperature(roughlybetween64and75°F[17.8and23.9°C]usuallymakesthemhappiest,althoughbothlowerandhighertemperaturesaresometimesused).Unlikesomeoftheirdangerous,pathogenicbacterialbrethren,lacticacidbacteriadofineinthepresenceofsalt,eveninrelativelyhighconcentrations,somostvegetablefermentationalsoinvolvessaltingthevegetables.
Yourjobasafermenterissimplytogivethosegoodmicrobeswhattheyneedandthengetoutofthewaywhiletheydotheirwork.Onceyouunderstandthebasic,practicalprinciples,it’seasytoseethatfermentationisaprocessnatureintendedandonethatyoucannurtureinaveryhands-offway.
WhyFermentVegetables?Folksofallstripeschoosetofermentvegetablesforawidevarietyofreasons.Somedoitforthelonglistofuniquehealthbenefits,othersforthetaste.SomepeoplewanttoeatmorelocallyandsomejustgetsweptawaybythefeelingofpowerthatcomesfromDIYingthingsthatseemcomplicated(butareactuallyquitesimple).
FlavorOnegreatreasontofermentvegetablesisimmediatelyevidentwithyourfirstbite:thetaste!Vegetablefermentationlivesinarealmoffoodsciencethatcanseemlikemagic.PutsomecabbageandsaltinavatandvoilàOnemonthlater,unseenmicrobeshavetransformedahumbleheadofcabbageintothattangysuperstarsauerkraut.Theseflavorsaredifficult,ifnotimpossible,toreplicatewithoutfermentation.Thatisonereasonwhygreatchefsallovertheworldareinlovewiththisprocess.Thewords“tangy,”“funky,”and“perfectlysour”alldescribethesingularflavorsthatoccurwhenvegetablesarefermented.
HealthFermentedvegetablesofferasurprisingnumberofhealthbenefits;themostdiscussedistheirhighprobioticbacteriacontent.Thereisnewresearchpublishedseeminglyeverydayontheimportanceofourgutmicrobiome(ourcommunityofintestinalmicrobes).Whiletherolethatfermented,probioticfoodsplayinthemicrobiomeisnotyetfullyunderstood,thereisgoodevidence
foodsplayinthemicrobiomeisnotyetfullyunderstood,thereisgoodevidencethatprobioticfoodsplayaroleinthecreationandmaintenanceofadiverseandhealthypopulationofgutbacteriaandthatsuchdiversityisimportantforourgeneralhealthandwell-being.
Incontrast,scientificevidencecontinuestoshowusthatadepletedmicrobiome,lackingindiversity,maybelinkedtomanyofthemodernailmentsfoundprimarilyindevelopednations—obesity,foodallergies,andevendepressionhaveallbeenshowntohaveeitherlikelyorestablishedlinkstothehealthanddiversityofourgutbacteria.
Butprobioticsaren’ttheonlyhealthbenefitswegetfromeatingfermentedvegetables.Thesefoodsalsohaveahighervitamincontentthantheirraworcookedcounterparts,meaningthatwhenyoueatrawcucumbers,forinstance,you’reactuallyeatingavegetablethatislowerinvitaminsthanitsfermentedcounterpart(seeClassicCukes,page162).Thefermentationprocessactuallycreatesvitamins,andmineralsbecomemoredigestiblebecauseoffermentation.
Inaddition,fermentationhasalsobeenshowntodestroyorreducecertaincompoundsthatareharmfultous,includingpesticideresidue.
Thisbarelyscratchesthesurfaceofthepotentialhealthclaimscurrentlybeingstudiedandthespecialpropertiesthathavealreadybeenidentified.Theareaofhealth-relatedresearchonfermentedfoodsisextremelyexcitingatpresentandwilllikelycontinuetoexpandinthecomingyears.
PreservationAbunchofcarrotsleftonthecountermightgetrathermushyandmoldyafteraweek.Inthefridge,theymaylastacoupleweeks.Ifyoufermentthem,however,they’llbecomeincreasinglyzestyanddelicious;they’llturnintohealthy,probioticfoods,andthey’llkeepformonthsormore,maintainingtheircrispnessformuchofthattime.
Thepracticeofvegetablefermentationcanbetracedbackthousandsofyears.Longbeforetherewererefrigerators,freezers,airlocks,orairtightjars,peopleusedmicrobestosecuretheirfoodsupplyforthecoldermonthsortopreventspoilageinsweltering,tropicalclimes.
Thefactthatthispracticehasstoodthetestofsomuchtimeisonegoodindicationthatit’sasafeandeffectivemethodforpreservingfood.Ifitdidn’tworkproperly,thefermentersofyorewouldn’thavesurvivedtopasstheirgenesandtheirknow-howdowntous.Forthoseofuswhoenjoyeatingtheproduceoflocalfarmersormaintainingalargegarden,fermentationisagreatwaytokeepthosevegetablesediblethroughthechangingseasons.
FunandEase
FunandEaseFermentationisforeveryone.Youdon’tneedtobeasophisticatedcooktomakefermentedvegetables,althoughtheflavorsthatthisprocesscreateswillhaveyourfriendsandfamilythinkingthatyouare.Ifyoucanchopavegetable,youcanferment.Followjustafewbasicandprettyflexibleguidelines(outlinedahead),andyou’llhaveendlessfunfermentingvegetablestoyourheart—andgut’s—content.
AskaUSDAMicrobiologistDr.FredBreidt,aUnitedStatesDeptartmentofAgriculturemicrobiologistwhoseworkoftenfocusesonbacterialcompetitioninvegetablefermentation,hasspentdecadesstudyingthemicrobesthatmakethisprocesssosafeandeffective.Heisanincrediblylivelyandknowledgeablesourceofinformationonthetopic,andhisenthusiasmisallthemoreinspiringbecauseitisfirmlyrootedinresearchandhardscience.
OnWhetherVegetableFermentationIsaSafeProcess,GivenItsIncreasedPopularity“Vegetablefermentationisoneofthesafestfoodtechnologieswehave,provided,ofcourse,thatitisdoneproperly.Butitisreallynotthathardtoproperlyfermentvegetables.Theprocessisactuallyprettyfoolproof.”
OnWhyVegetableFermentationIsSuchaSafeProcessBacterialcompetitionmakesthisprocessverysafe.Lacticacidbacteriaandthelacticacidtheyproduceareextraordinarilyeffectiveatcreatingconditionsinwhichtheirpathogeniccompetitorscannotlive.Lacticacidismoreeffectivethanothertypesofacid(includingaceticacid,theacidinvinegar)atdestroyingpathogenicbacteria,includingSalmonellaandE.coli.Thewaysthatdifferentacidmoleculeskillbacteria(inadditiontothelowpHkillingeffect)arecurrentlybeinginvestigated.WhileC.botulinumsporesdousuallysurvivefermentation,theydonotproducethebotulismtoxinwhenthepHisbelow4.6.SincepHstripscanbeslightlyinaccurate,thesafestoptionistoonlyconsumefermentsthatgiveareadingof4.0orbelow.
OnWhetherVegetablesAreSafetoConsumeAfterLongFermentationLacticacidisanamazingpreservative.Evenincommercialproduction,
Lacticacidisanamazingpreservative.Evenincommercialproduction,someproductsarelefttofermentatcontrolled(andoftenuncontrolled,inoutdoortanks)roomtemperatureforayearormore.Apicklethathasgonebad(whichrarelyhappens)canbeeasilyidentifiedbyoffsmellsandappearance.
OnDecidingWhenaPickleShouldHeadtotheCompostPileIftherearearomasofextremerotteneggorSwisscheese,afermentedvegetableshouldnotbeconsumed,althoughthisprobablygoeswithoutsaying.Whenindoubt,useapHstrip.IfthepHisabover4.0,don’teatthatbatch.
OnSurfaceMoldThereareavarietyofsurfacemoldsthatmayappearonthesurfaceofafermentedvegetable.Ifyouseeathinlayerofyeast(commonlyreferredtoasKahmyeast),it’snothingtobeconcernedabout.Ifathickerlayerofcolorfulmoldhasaccrued,thereistheunlikelypossibilitythatthiscanstartaveryraresecondaryfermentationthatwillactuallyraisethepHlevels,makingitpossibleforC.botulinumtosporulateinthebottomofthecontainer.Again,apHmeterorstripcanhelpyougaugethesafety.AtapHbelow4,thebotulismtoxincannotsurvive.
TheSafetyQuestionOkay,soatthispoint,you’vereadtheword“bacteria”quiteafewtimes.Freakedout?Don’tbe.Really.Notonlyareourmouths,guts,andskinteemingwithhealthfulandharmlessstrainsofbacteria,buttheairwebreatheandthesoilbeneathourfeetarealsohavensforbacteriaofallkinds.
Thereisnoquestionthatdangerousstrainsofbacteriaexist,butonthewhole,bacteriaarenotourenemies.Themorewelearnthroughscientificstudy,themoreitbecomesapparentthatbacteriaareanessentialpartofhumanlife.Paintingallbacteriawiththesamebrushappearstohaveledusdownthewrongpath.Ifourbodiesweresterileitwouldbedifficultor,morelikely,impossibleforustosurvive—oneverygoodreasontosetasideanyremainingfearofbacteria.
Thesamethingsthathelppreservefermentedvegetablesalsomakethisprocessincrediblysafe.Inmostcases,itonlytakesafewdaysoffermentation
forthepHoflacto-fermentedvegetablestodroptoalevelwhereinitisimpossibleforthebacteriumresponsibleforbotulism,C.botulinum,tomakeitsverydangerousspores.Natureprovidestheessentialsafetymechanismshere.Youneedonlychop,submerge,waitafewdays,andacceptthatroomtemperatureisjustrightforsafe,fermentedvegetables.See“AskaUSDAMicrobiologist”forfurtherdetailsonsafety.
Thesubjectofthisbookisvegetablefermentation,sowe’remostlytalkingaboutfermentingwithlacticacidbacteria,butknowthatthereisawidefermentableworldoutthere,inwhichotherbacteria,yeasts,andfungimakemanyotherremarkablefermentedfoods.
WildFermentationvs.CulturedFermentationAlthoughalllacto-fermentedfoodscanaccuratelybereferredtoas“cultured”,theterm“culturing”usuallyreferstothepracticeofusingaseparateculture,ratherthannativeyeastsorbacteria,tostartfermentation.Thiscouldrefertofermentsthatrequireastartertowork(akombuchaSCOBY,orkefirgrains,forinstance),fermentsthatareculturedthroughcontactwithanalreadyfermentedsubstance(Misodoko,page189;orNukadoko,page191),andsometimesevenfermentsthatarekickstartedwithjustasmalldoseofliquidfromafinishedferment.
Wildfermentationreferstotheprocessoffermentingfoodswithonlythebacteriaoryeastthatarenaturallypresentintheairoronthefruitorvegetablebeingfermented.Withjustafewexceptions,thefermentsinthisbookarewildfermented.
Whileculturesarenecessaryforsometypesoffermentation,vegetablescomeequippedwitheverythingtheyneedforlacto-fermentation,andthereisscientificevidencethatusingastartercanactuallyhaveanegativeimpactonthetasteandtextureoffermentedvegetables,sogoingwildreallyisbest.
TheNeed-to-KnowBasicsReadytodiveintofermentingyourownvegetables?Ipromiseyouit’sbothsimpleandfun.Withjustabitofplanningandprep(probablylessthanyoudofordinnereachnight),you’llbewellonyourwaytomakingabatchofprobioticgoodnessthatyoucanservewithnearlyeverymeal.
goodnessthatyoucanservewithnearlyeverymeal.
TheMainComponentsNotmuchisneededtomakepickles,kimchiorkraut.Thevegetablesthemselvesprovidemostoftheessentials.Ifyou’realreadychoppingvegetablesforameal,you’vealreadymadeitmostofthewaytoasimplevegetableferment.VEGETABLES
Thebacterianecessaryforvegetablefermentationwillprimarilybeonthepeelorskin,sowiththeexceptionofonionsandgarlic,itisbesttoleavevegetablesunpeeled.Withinediblepeels,suchasthoseonsomewintersquash(WinterSquashHummus,page138),removethepeelsafterfermentationbutbeforeeatingorjustaddsomepiecesofpeelintothefermentanddiscardthemafterfermentation.
Washvegetablesforfermentationjustasyouwouldforcookingoreatingraw.Avoidwashingtheminhotwaterorcommercialvegetablewash,though,becauseeithercouldhaveanegativeimpactonthebacteriallifeonyourvegetables.
Allvegetablesaretheoreticallyfermentable.Inactuality,somedon’ttastegreatwhenfermented(althoughthatissubjective),andothersfallapartduringfermentation.Asyoukickoffyourfermentationhabit,Irecommendstartingwithvegetableswithlowerwatercontent(thinkradishesandturnipsovercucumbersandcollards),buttrythemalltoseewhatyourfavoritesare!
Perfectspecimensarenotnecessaryforfermentation.Whilenewerfermentersmayhavebetterluckstickingtothefreshestvegetables,thesomewhatshriveled,butstilledible,rootsyoufindinthebackofthecrispercanabsolutelybegivennewlifeandsavedfromthelandfillthroughfermentation.WATER
Thegoodnews:asimpleinternetsearchwillprovideinformationontapwaterinmostmunicipalities.Thelessgoodnews:somethingsthattricklethroughourpipesarenotalwayssuperfriendlytofermentation.
AchemicalcalledchloramineispresentinmuchofthemunicipalwatersupplyintheUnitedStates.Chloramine,likechorine,isadisinfectantaddedtothewatersystemtokilloffpathogenicmicrobes.Duetoitsantimicrobialproperties,itdoeshavethepotentialtoimpactthesuccessofferments.
Unlikechlorine,chloraminecan’tbeboiledoutofwater,norwillitevaporateifyouletyourwatersitoutovernight.
Briningvs.SaltingForthepurposesofthisbook,briningreferstomixingsaltandwatertocreateabrinethatisthenpouredovervegetables.Saltingreferstoapplyingsaltdirectlytocutvegetables,sothattheyreleasethewaterstoredintheircells.Inbothcases,theideaistocreateenoughliquidtocoverthevegetables.Thechoicetobrineorsaltdependsonthesizeofthevegetablepiecesandthetypeofferment.
Manyoftherecipesinthisbookweresaltedat2to2.5percent,orbrinedat4to6percent.Thereareexceptionstothis,however,assomerecipeslendthemselvestoasaltierorlesssaltybrine.Forexample,thesaltierbrineusedinwholepickledvegetableshelpspreventmoldandsurfaceyeastand,ofcourse,theno-salt-addedchapter(page177)reliesonthesaltsnaturallypresentintheingredientstodowhattheaddedsaltwouldnormallydo,aswellastheacidcreatedduringfermentationtomakethemsafetoconsume.
Tolearnhowtocalculatesaltpercentageandforvolume/weightcomparisons,checkoutthesaltchartsonpage200.
Bottledwaterisregulatedmuchlessstringentlythantapwateranditcanbenexttoimpossibletogetinformationontheoriginsofbottledwater,oritscontents,sosaveyourmoney,andtheearth,andusefilteredtapwaterinstead.
Despitethepresenceofchloramineinmylocalwatersupply,I’veneverhadafailedfermentusingevenunfilteredtapwater.Ifyouhaveconcernsaboutchloramineimpactingyourferments,Irecommendbuyingastandardcharcoalfilter(suchasBritaorPur)thatwillreduceoreliminatechloramineandotherthings(suchasheavymetals)thatyouprobablydon’twantinwhatyoudrinkorferment.SALT
SALTSaltplaysanimportantroleinvegetablefermentation.Itstrengthensthepectinsinthevegetables,resultinginacrisperpickle.Itgivesaninitialadvantagetolacticacidbacteriaovertheirsalt-fearing,bacterialcompetitors,makingfermentsevensafer.Itaidsinthepreservationoffermentedvegetables,allowingthemtobestoredforlongerperiodsoftime.Italsoprovidessomeobviousflavorenhancements.
Youcanfermentwithjustaboutanysaltunderthesun,fromcheaptablesalttotheoftencolorful,veryexpensivestuff.
Asmentionedpreviously,fermentationmakesmineralsmoreabsorbable,sousingahigherqualitysalt,whichisgenerallyricherinmineralsthantablesalt,canbeagoodchoiceforalittlemineralboost.Ifit’sinyourbudget,lookforasaltwithitemizedmineralcontent.Manysaltswithahighermineralcontentareveryaffordable,butifyoupreferplaintablesalt(whichworksbeautifully),lookforonethathasjustoneingredient:salt.
Weighingvs.MeasuringSaltWeighingsaltisundoubtedlythemostaccuratewaytoachieveconsistentsalinity,butthatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanit’sthebestchoiceforeveryone.Inyourhomepractice,Iencourageyoutofindthesaltlevelthatbestfitsyourtaste.Consistencyforyoumaymeanalwaysmeasuringwithyourfavoriteteaspoonandbrandofsalt,itmaymeanbreakingoutthekitchenscale,oritmaymeansaltingtotaste.SothatyoucanachievetheexactresultsthatIdidifyousochoose,thesaltinallrecipesinthisbookwasweighedinbothgramsandmeasuredwithmyfavoritemeasuringspoons.IfyouwanttodoitexactlyasIdid,usethegramweight,butknowthatmeasuringorsaltingtotaste,ratherthanweighing,iscompletelyfineforsmallbatches.Forcrockfermentation,Idoprefertoweigh,sincesmallvariationsfromonetablespoon(15g)scooptothenextcanadduptoabigdifferencewhenusingalargecrock.
Whilesaltlevelsdonotdecreaseduringfermentation,theincreasedacidinfinishedfermentsdoesmakethemtastelesssaltythantheytastedatthestart.Ifyoudecidetosalttotaste,youcanachieveanidealendproductbymakingitslightlysaltierthanyoulike.
Toolittlesaltwillresultinaquick-fermentingbatchthatismorelikelytoturntomush.Whiletheacidthatiscreatedduringthefermentationprocesswillmaketheproductsafetoconsume,manypeoplewillfindthemushytexturelessthanappealing.Therearewaystoworkaroundthat(seeNo-Salt-AddedFerments,pages177to185),butusinga2percentminimumfordirectsalting
and4percentminimumforbriningisthebestwaytoensureyouendupwithacrispandtoothsomefermentedvegetable.
Usingtoomuchsaltmayresultinaveryslowfermentingvegetable,abatchthatfailstostartfermenting,oranoddlydiscoloredbatch.Somestrainsoflacticacidbacteriawillfermentnormallyat8percentdirectsalt—thoughaconcentrationthathighwouldbeutterlyinediblewithoutsoakingandrinsingandisthereforenotadvisable.
Ifyou’remeasuringsalt,pleasecheckoutthesaltchart(page200)foranideaofweightandvolumedifferencesbetweensalts,butalwaysletyourpalatebeyourguide.
EquipmentVegetablefermentationdoesnotrequiremuchspecialequipment;however,somenormalkitchentoolsareessentialformakingtherecipesinthisbook.•Masonjarsmakeexcellentfermentingvessels,andwide-mouthjarsaremucheasiertopackthannarrow-mouthjars.European-stylejars(suchasFidoandLeParfaitbrandjars)withrubbergasketsandclampsarealsoverygoodoptions.Whenusingnarrow-mouthjars,theshouldersofthejarcanbeleveragedtokeepvegetablespackedandsubmergedunderthebrine.
•Weight.Youwillneedsomethingtouseasaweightinyourvessel,whetheryou’reusingagasket-sealingjaroramasonjar.Manyhouseholditemscanservethispurpose.(See“TheToolsofSubmersion”onpage26foroptions.)
•Largebowls.Havingalargerbowlonhandisessentialfordirectsaltedfermentssuchassauerkrautandkimchi.You’llwantenoughspaceinyourbowlsothatdistributingsaltevenlyiseasyandmixingandtossingsaltintoyourvegetablesdoesn’tresultinabigmessonyourcountertopsandfloors.
•Blender,foodprocessor,orhandblender.Ablenderofsomesortwillbenecessarytomakesomeoftherecipesinthe“Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments”chapter(page27)and“Kimchi”chapter(page101),whileformanyotherrecipes,it’sjustnicetohaveasawork-reducingdevice.Somepeopleenjoytheprocessofhandshreddingorgratingcabbageforsauerkraut,butusingtheslicerbladeofalarge-capacityfoodprocessorcansaveyouquiteabitofpreptime.
•Chef’sknife.Agoodknifegreatlysimplifiestheworkofchoppingvegetables.
Inadditiontotheabove,herearesomeitemsthatmaynotbenecessary,butarecertainlyhelpful:•Mandoline.Amandolineisnotnecessary,butforthosenotgiftedwithgreatknifeskills,itcanmakequickandeasyworkofcreatinguniformvegetablepieces.
•Giantbowlorhotelpan.Ifalargebowlisgood,agiantbowlisbetter.Ihaveverylargecapacitybowlsthatmakeitquiteeasytosalt,soak,andtosslargerbatchesofkimchiandsauerkrautwithoutmakingamess.ThewidediameterofthesebowlsalsomakesiteasytouseaplateasaweightwhenIwanttobrinewholeheadsofcabbageforkimchi.Hotelpans,availableatrestaurantsupplystores,workequallywell.
•Largeliquidmeasuringcup.Makeeasyworkofmixingbrinebypouringdirectlyintoa4-cup(940ml)liquidmeasure.Youcanalsousea1/2-gallon(1.9L)jarforthispurpose(measurementsaremarkedonthesides),andifyouhaveextrabrine,youcanalwaysputthelidonandstoreitforyournextbatch.
•Kitchenscale.Ifyouintendtoweighsaltforthehighestaccuracy,akitchenscale(withgramdisplay)isnecessary.
•Foodmill.Forthesmoothestsauces,afoodmillisinvaluable.•Plasticlidsformasonjars.Theselidsarepricierthanthemetaljarlidsandringsthatcomestandardwithmostmasonjars,buttheywillnotcorrodeifabitofacidickrautorkimchigetsstuckonthejarrimorinthethreads.Plasticmasonjarlidsarenotwatertight,however,sodon’tgoa-shakin’jarsthataretoppedwiththese.
•Fermentingcrock.Forthoselookingtopreserveanabundantharvest,acrockmaybeagoodinvestment.Forthosewhodon’tgrowtheirownproduce,acrock,althoughatemptingandbeautifulitem,isusuallyamorereasonableinvestmenttomakeafterafermentationhabithasbeenwellestablished.Thisisthesinglemostexpensivepieceofvegetablefermentationequipmentyouwill
belikelytobuy,andforapartmentandcitydwellers,therearespaceconsiderationstotakeintoaccount.Seechapter6formoreinformationoncrockfermentation.
•pHstripsorapHmeter.Ifyou’replanningondoingalotofsalt-freefermentationormakingtheonlyyeast-fermentedrecipeinthisbook(GarlicHoney,page194),apHmeterorpHstripsareadvisabletoensureasafepH.
1CocktailOnionRings(page66),filledto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim
2FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles(page44)withclothsecuredascover
3SweetPotatofrynests(page65)withjarweightinside
TheKeystoSuccessfulFermentationTherearen’tmanystepstosuccessfulvegetablefermentation.MostofthetipsandtricksIprovidethroughoutthisbookarepracticaldetailsthatI’vepickedup
andtricksIprovidethroughoutthisbookarepracticaldetailsthatI’vepickedupinmyyearsoffermentation,andwhilethey’llhelpyoucreateyourbestferment,mostofthemaretotallyflexible.Thepointsthatfollow,however,arewhatyoureallyneedtoknowbeforegettingstarted.Onceyouhavetheseinternalized,you’llknowthebasicsofvegetablefermentation.
Key1:ProperSubmersionAgreatwaytoprotectvegetablesfromairexposureistoensurethatthereisathinlayerofbrinecoveringthemduringfermentation.Vegetablesubmersionpreventsdiscoloration,aswellassurfaceyeastsandmoldsfromformingonthetoplayerofvegetables,andgiveslacticacidbacteriatheirpreferred,airlessconditions.Submersionisamoreimportantstepforbrinedferments(“Pickles,”pages39to69)thanitisforpackedferments(“Kraut,”pages71to99)andforkimchi,whereyoucanusuallyskipitaltogether.
Asyoumatureinyourfermentationpractice,youmaydeveloparhythmandasenseforhowrigidlyyouneedtoapproachthepracticeofsubmerging,butifyou’rejustgettingstarted,makingsurethatyourvegetablesstaybeneaththebrineshouldbeoneofyourtopconsiderations.THERULESOFSUBMERSION
Tokeepvegetablesbeneaththebrine,youjustneedtoapplyalittlebitofweighttothevegetablesoncethey’repackedintotheirjarsorcrocks.Thereareplentyofoptionswhenitcomestopicklingweights,andifyouprefertokeepyourwalletinyourpocket,creativityiskey.Youprobablyalreadyhavesomethinginyourhomethatcouldserveasasuitableweightforyourfermentingvegetables.Hereareafewguidelinesthatwillhelpensurebestresults.
Avarietyofspecialtyandhouseholditemscanbeusedtokeepvegetablessubmergedduringfermentation.
•Ditchthemetal.Unlessit’srestaurant-gradestainlesssteel,it’snotagoodideatoputmetalinoronaferment.Acidsareproducedduringfermentationandmetalcorrodeswhenforcedtositonacidfordaysorweeksormonths.Corrodedmetalissomethingyoudefinitelydon’twantinoronyourfood.
•Cleanit.Maybethisisano-brainer,butwhateveryou’reusingasaweightshouldbethoroughlycleanedbeforesittingontopofyourfermentationbiochemistry.Soap(notantibacterialsoap)andhotwaterwilldothetrick.Arunthroughahotdishwashercyclealsoworks.
•Makesureitfits.Thismayalsoseemobvious,butwhateverobjectyouuseneedstofitcomfortablythroughthesmallestpartofyourfermentingvessel.Oncethingsgetactiveinyourferment,theCO2willpushthevegetablesupandmaymovetheweight.Iftheweightistoolarge,itcancrackyourjarorcrock,resultinginthelossofboththefermentandthevessel.
•Openwide.Usingwide-mouthjarsmakesiteasiertobothpackyourfermentsinandtofindweightsthatfit.
•Searchforsafety.Ingenuitydrivesfermentationexperimentation,soIencourageyoutoconsideranyobjectinyourhousethatmightfittheabovecriteriaandthenconsiderwhetherornotit’sfoodsafe.Glasscandleholdersmayseemideal,butifthey’recoveredinaglazethatisn’tfoodoracidsafe,that’sdefinitelynotsomethingyouwantinyourfood.Youcanusuallycheckwiththemanufacturerfordetails,butifyoucan’t,seekanotheroption.
•Coverproperly.Thespecialtyairlockfermentationsystems(discussedfurtheronthenextpage)aresetonceyouclosethem,butforallothermethodsofweightingdownyourvegetables,you’llneedtocoveryourjarinoneoftwoways.Ifthesubmersionweightyou’vechosenprotrudesabovetherimofyourfermentingjar,useakitchentowel,clothnapkinorlargecoffeefiltertocovertheentirethingandsecureitbyplacingarubberbandovertheclothtopreventdustfromgettingintoyoursetup.Ifyourweightfitsunderneaththerimofthejar,coverthejarwithitslidandring,butdonotfullytightenthering.LeavingthejarringsomewhatlooseallowsCO2toescape,whichwillpreventyourjarlidfrombecomingdeformedduringfermentation.
THETOOLSOFSUBMERSION
Anynumberofitemscanbeusedtosubmergeyourfermentsproperly.Manyofthefollowingarefreeorcheaporarehouseholditemsyoumayalreadyhave.•Asmallerjar.Thisismygo-tomethodforsubmersion.Useaveryclean,smalljar(jellyjars,quarter-pintjars,orrecycledcondimentjarsallworkwell).Fillthejarwithwater,tightlysecureitslid,andthenplaceitontopofthevegetablesinsideyourlargerfermentationjar.Youshouldseethebrinelevelriseoverthetopofthevegetables.Oncethisisdone,you’llneedtoplaceakitchentowel,largecoffeefilter,orclothnapkinoverthejarsandsecureitwitharubberbandaroundthethreadsofthelarger,bottomjar.AnadvantageofthismethodisthatitallowsCO2createdduring
fermentationtoeasilyescapewhiletheweightofthejarensuresthatthebrinelevelstaysabovethelevelofthefermentingvegetables.Thisliquidlayerpreventsexcessiveoxygenfromreachingthevegetables,keepingmoldand
yeastsfromforming.Thedisadvantageofthismethodisthatitallowsevaporation.Thisisn’tanissueforafermentofshortduration,butforfermentsofamonthorlonger,orinaverywarmclimate,youmayneedtopushdownontheweightoraddmorebrine.
•Glassorceramicpotboilerdisks.Youcanbuytheserelativelycheapglassorceramicdisksatkitchensupplystoresoronline.Theyhavegoodheftandcanbestackedtocreatemoreweightifneedbe.Justmakesurethatthediameteroftheweightfitsthroughthenarrowestpartofyourjar.
•Aboiledstone.Findaround,flatstonethatwillfitinyourjar.Boilitfor20minutesandallowittocoolbeforefirstusetoensurethatnounwantedmicrobialcompetitorssurvive.Avoidlimestoneandothersedimentaryrocksthatcontaincalcite,asubstancethatwillreactwithacidanddissolveintoyourfermentingvegetables.
•Ceramicpieweightsorglassmarbles.Theselittlespheresmakegreatballastwhentiedinabitofcheeseclothorplacedintoareusablecottonteabag.
•Vintageglasscanningjarlids.Thissuggestioncamefromablogreader(phickle.com),Diane,whosaidsheoftenfindstheseoldglasslidsatvintagestoresforasteal.
•Snack-sized,zip-topstoragebags.Putsomeofthesaltybrineintothebag(donotfillcompletely),sealthebag,andplaceitontopofthevegetables.Usingbrineinthebagensuresthatifthebagbreaksorleaks,thesaltconcentrationofthefermentwillnotbealtered.
Ifyou’dratherpurchasespecialtyequipmentmadeforfermentationandsubmersion,thereareseveraloptionsyoucanlookinto.•Pickleweights.Youcanpurchasespecialfermentationweightsthatarespecificallytofitinjars.Theycanbestackedtoprovidegreaterweightorusedindividually.Lookforweightsmadebyareputablepotterorcompany.Chooseglassceramicweights,withfood-safeglazes.
•Specialtyfermentationsystems.Asvegetablefermentationgrowsinpopularity,newspecialtyproductsforkeepingvegetablessubmergedwhileallowingCO2toescapearebecomingmorecommon.Currentsystemstendtobepricedaround$15to$30perjar,makingthemprohibitivelyexpensiveforthoseofuswhohavemanyjarsgoingatanygiventime.Ifyou’reworkingonjustoneortwojarsatatime,however,thesemightbeareasonableinvestment.Thesesystemsincludecontainersorlidsfittedwithanairlock,suchasthePickl-ItandThePerfectPickler;detachablelids,suchasthereCAP,thatcanbefittedtostandardmasonjarswithabungandairlock;andcap/compression
systemslikeKrautSource.Pleasekeepinmindthatdespitesomecompanies’claims,thesedonotmakefermentationsaferoreasier.Theycanmakeitlessodorousandneaterlooking.
Key2:ProperTemperatureTherearefewthingsthatimpactafermentmorethantemperature.Temperatureinfluencesthespeedoffermentationandsubsequently,itstexture.Thetemperatureatthestartoffermentationeveninfluenceswhichstrainorstrainsoflacticacidbacteriainitiatefermentation.
Thisdoesn’tmeanthatfermentationisafinickyprocess,however.Betweentemperaturesof64and78°F(17.8and25.6°C),fermentationwillinitiatewithoutahitch(thoughsomefermentstastebetterwhenfermentedataslightlycoolerorwarmertemperature).Ifindthatsauerkrauthasoptimalflavorandtexturewhenfermentedbelow70°F(21.1°C),ascloseto65°F(18.3°C)aspossible,while,formypalate,kimchiistheopposite.Myfavoritekimchishavebeenfermentedatslightlywarmertemperatures,between70and72°F(21.1and22.2°C).
Somesciencedisagreeswithmeonthis—atleastonestudyindicatesthat68°F(20°C)istheoptimalfermentationtemperaturefordelicious‘chi,whileothersshowabroadrange,from50to72°F(10to22.2°C),worksbest.Thisleadsusbacktoakeyprincipleofhomefermentation:aslongasyoufollowthebasic,safeprocedureslaidoutinthischapter,thereisplentyofroomforvariationandpreference.Often,wedon’thaveperfectcontrolovertemperature,andthatistotallyfine.Ifavegetabletakesaverylongtimetoferment(toocool)orendsuptoosoft(toowarm),thenexploredifferentmicroclimatesinyourhome,suchasnearanair-conditioningvent,whereit’scooler,orinsideaturned-offovenorontopofarefrigerator,whereit’swarmer.Andremember,theslightvariationsthathappenfrombatchtobatcharepartofwhatmakefermentationfun!
Key3:Cleanliness,NotSterilityIfyou’vearrivedatvegetablefermentationviacanningorhomebrewing,youmaybeaccustomedtoastrictregimenofsterility.Thisisneithernecessarynordesirableforvegetablefermentation.Microbesareourfriends,andtheparticularbacteriaresponsibleforvegetablefermentationareprettygoodattakingcareofthemselves(andus),sostepawayfromthesanitizerandvatsofboilingjarsandrelyonelbowgrease,plainsoap,andwaterinstead.Keepingacleankitchen,cleanjars,cleanutensils,andcleanhandsissufficientforsafeandsuperiorhome-fermentedvegetables.
home-fermentedvegetables.
WhattoExpectWhenYou’reFermentingOkay,soyou’rereadytoletyourfermentsdotheirthing!Howwillyouknowthatit’sworking?First,ifyou’reusingfilteredwaterandfermentingatroomtemperature,it’sextremelyunlikelythatfermentationwon’tinitiate.Hereareafewcluesthatwilltellyouthingsaregoingwell.
HowFermentsShouldLook:BubblesandColorChangesYoushouldseebubblesforminginyourjarand/orfoamonthesurfacewhenyou’refermentinginglass.Ifyou’refermentinginawater-sealedcrock,you’llheartheoccasional“bloop”thatindicatesthingsarebubblingalonginside.Notallvegetablesareveryvigorousfermenters,andlargervegetablepieceswilltakelongertogetactive,soitmaybeafewdaysbeforeyouseeanythingbubbling.Thebubblesinsomefermentswillbesoactiveitmaylooklikeboilingwater,whileinothersyouseechampagne-likebubblesalongthejarsidesorjusttheoccasionalbitoffoamonthesurface.Whenindoubt,youcanuseapHstrip.Below4.0,youcanstarteatingthemifyoulike.Above4.0,andtheyneedalittlemoretimetoferment.
Thebrineinyourfermentedpickleswillalsostarttochangefromcleartocloudyintheearlydays,andyoumaynoticeabitofwhitesedimentformingatthebottomofthejarovertime.Thosearebothgoodsignsthatfermentationisoccurring.Vegetableswithabrightlycoloredouterskin(redradishesandbeets,forinstance)mayalsoshedtheircolor,givingyouverycolorfulbrine.
Whenthey’rereadytoeat,thefermentedvegetablesthemselvesmayappearlighter(radishes)ordarker(brusselssprouts)incolor.Thetexturewillhavechanged,butinmostcases,itwillbecrispy,similartopickledvegetablesthatyoubuyatthestore.Ifyoudon’tachievequitethetextureyouwant,tryfermentingyournextbatchinacoolerspotorusingabitmoresaltinyournextbatch.
HowFermentsShouldSmell:PungentandStrongReadyforalittlebitofstraighttalk?Sometimesfermentsstink.Formostpeople,thisisamatterofgettingaccustomedtothesmellorofbeingmoreselectivewiththetypeofvegetableused(justsaynotoopencrocksoffermentingbroccoli).Ifyou’reunfamiliarwiththesmelloffermentedfoods,trybuyingacontaineroflivingsauerkrautfromtherefrigeratedsectionofthegrocerystore.
containeroflivingsauerkrautfromtherefrigeratedsectionofthegrocerystore.Leaveitatroomtemperatureforafewhoursuntilthechillisgoneandthenopenitupandtakeawhiff.Thatsmell—pungent,butnotunappealing—shouldapproximatewhatyou’vegotbrewing.
HowFermentsShouldTaste:Bright,Sour,andSaltyFermentedvegetablesshouldtastesourandpickled.Theyshouldtastegood,andmostpeoplelovetheseflavorsstraightaway(althoughsomedofindthemchallengingatfirst),evenifthearomaduringfermentationdoesn’talwaysappeal.
Afermentthat’sgonebadwillshowsigns:therewillbecolorfulmoldorthesmellwillbecheesy,musty,ormoldyratherthanbrightandfunky.Thetextureofthevegetablesinan“off”fermentwillbemushy.Theywillsmellveryunpleasant.Ifnoneofthosethingsistrue,giveitasmalltaste.Bright,salty,sournotesshouldhityourtongue.Ifyou’veevertriedadelipicklefromarealkosherdeli,youknowhowmuchmoreflavorfulandcomplexthosearethanjarred,supermarketpickles.Thoseareafewoftheflavorsyoushouldexpect,butthesefoodsarecomplex,sootherflavorsaren’tuncommon.Theunpleasantnotesdescribeabovearenotcommonoccurrences,andtheyareeasilyavoidedbyusingthesimpletechniqueslaidoutinthissection.
TroubleshootingandFAQsFollowingaresomeofthemostcommonissuesandquestionsIhavereceivedwhenteachingfermentation.Referbacktothissectionasneeded—orjusttosootheyourfearsbeforebeginning.
“Whenisitdone?”It’sdonewhenyouliketheflavorandacidity,andthat’swhenitshouldbemovedtothefridge.Whiletherecipesinthisbookallmentionspecifictimeframes,youshouldfeelfreetofermentthemlongerifyoufeelthattheyarenotyetsourenough.Thewarmerthejar,thefasteritwillferment.
Fermentedfoodsaredynamicandalive.Evenputtingthemintotherefrigeratorwon’tcompletelystopthefermentationprocessinmostcases.Expecttotastesomethingslightlydifferenteachtimeyouopenyourjar.Thelongeritferments,themoresouritwillget.
“Mybrineiscloudyandthere’swhitesedimentatthebottom.”
Whitesedimentisthenormalaccumulationofbacteriaandyeastinaferment.Somevegetables(hotpeppers,page133,andsnappeas,page49)tendtoaccumulatemoresedimentthanothers,butitisnothingtobeconcernedabout.
Cloudybrineinpicklesisalsonormal.Itisn’trelatedtothetypeofsaltyouuse—itisrelatedtothefermentationprocessitself.
“WhatdoIdowithabatchthathasgonemoldy?”Thepresenceofmoldorvisibleyeastonthesurfaceofafermentedvegetablemayindicatethattherewassomeairexposure,whichisnotinitselfworrisome.However,ifthereisanabundanceofdark-orbright-coloredmold,thatbatchshouldbetossed.Ifthereisawhitishmoldoryeastonthesurface,youhavesomeoptions.ThemostimportantthingtodoisskimthemoldimmediatelytokeepitfromformingathickerlayerandthentestthefermentwithapHstrip.IfthepHisbelow4.0,itissafetoconsume.Forsaltedferments,Igenerallyusethesnifftest:ifitsmellslikeatasty,sourferment,Ieatit.Smallamountsofbeigeorwhitemoldareharmless,butapHstripwillalwaystellyouifanundesirablesecondaryfermentationhasmadeyourfermentunsafe.Thishasneverhappenedtome,andeveninthescientificliteratureitisextremelyrare.
“Myfermentismushy.”Amushyfermentusuallyindicatestoolittlesalt,afermentingtemperaturethatwastoohigh,atoo-longfermentationperiod,ortheuseofastarter.Ifyourfermentstillsmellsgoodandsour,itisstillokaytoeat.Ifthetextureisunpleasanttoyou,considerpuréeingitintoasauce,dip,dressing,soup,orstew.
Toavoidthisproblemnexttime,trymovingyourfermenttoaslightlycoolerspotinyourhomeandraisingthesaltcontentabit.Anddefinitelyskipthestarterifyouusedone!It’snotnecessary.
“MysauerkrautispinkandIusedgreencabbage.”Greenkrautturnedpinkindicatesthatyouusedtoomuchsaltorthatthesaltwasn’tproperlydistributedatthestartoffermentation.Eatingkrautdiscoloredinthiswayisn’trecommended.
“IsthereanythingIcandotoreducethe…aroma?”Ifyoufindthesmellverybothersome,thereareafewthingsyoucando.First,beawarethatsomevegetableshaveastrongerfermentingsmellthanothers.Kimchiwithfishsauce,cauliflower,brusselssprouts,andbroccolicandefinitelycleararoom.Fermentingstinkiervegetablesinanairlocksystemorwater-sealedcrockcanreduceoreliminatetheodors.Somepeoplealsohaveacornerofthe
crockcanreduceoreliminatetheodors.Somepeoplealsohaveacornerofthepantryoraspecialclosetorcupboarddedicatedtofermentingvegetables.
Onetipforanyonesensitivetothesesmells:chillfermentsinthefridgebeforeopeningtoeat.It’sagreatwaytotameodorsandstokeappetites.
“Mybatchisalittleslimy.”Didyouuseastarter?Ifso,don’tdothatagain.
Ifnot,itislikelyacaseoftoo-sweetvegetableslikebeetsorcarrotsthatfavoredyeastfermentation(undesirableinthiscase)overlacticacidfermentation(desirable).Whileyoucancutmostvegetablesintoanysizeandshapeyou’dlike,forsweeterroots,uselargerpiecestokeepthosesugarsfrombecomingtooavailable.
“Therearebubblesinmyjar!”Bubblesareagoodthingandproofthatfermentationishappening.TheproductionofCO2isanaturalandnormalpartofvegetablefermentation.
“Therearenobubblesinmyfermentationvessel.”Areyou100percentsurethatthereareabsolutelynobubbles?Noteveryvegetablefermentssupervigorously,sowithcertainvegetablesatcoolertemperatures,sometimesyou’lljustseesomelightbubblingintheearlydays.Ifyoudefinitelyneversawanybubbling,thatmayindicatethatfermentationneverinitiated.Possibleculpritsareanoverlychillyenvironment,disinfectantsinthewatersupply,orirradiatedproduce.Smellforfermentyaromasandkeepacloselookoutforsurfacebubbles.
Giveitsomemoretimeandifthereisstillnosignoflife,considertheaboveculpritsandstartanew.
“Itstoppedbubbling!DidIkillmyferment?”Unlessyoucookedit,it’sveryunlikelythatthebacteriainyourfermentjustupanddied.Vegetablefermentsaremoreactivelybubblyduringtheearlydaysoffermentationinmostcases(therearenotableexceptionstothis,sodon’tworryifitcontinuestobubble,either).ThebacteriathatareactiveatthestartoffermentationgenerallyproducemoreCO2thanthebacteriathatareactivelaterintheprocess,soit’smorethanlikelythatthingsjustquieteddown.
“What’stheidealtemperatureforvegetablefermentation?”
Thereisanidealrangeof64to75°F(17.8to24°C),butthisisflexible.Theexactidealtemperaturevariesfromonefermenttoanother,byonebacterialstraintoanother,andbytastepreference.Inmyownpractice,Ihavefoundthatabroadrangeofroomtemperatures,someofthembeyondtheboundariesofthisrange,willendinatastyferment.
“Ikeepmyhomecooler/warmerthanthis.CanIstillferment?”Yes.Takealittlesurveyofyourhome.Youwillprobablyfindthattherearewarmerorcoolermicroclimatesinspotsnearanair-conditioningorheatingvent,inacoldclosetorbasement,ontopofarefrigerator,orinsidea(turned-off)oven.Ifyoutrulycan’tfindaspotwithinthisrange,giveitashotanyway.Ifyourtemperaturesarewarmer,addabitmoresalt,cutfermentationtimes,andcheckregularlyformushiness.Ifyourtemperaturesaretoocoolbutstillabove50°F(10°C),allowforamuchlongerfermentationperiod.
“Arethesefoodssafetoeataftersittingatroomtemperatureforsolong?”Yes.Fermentingfoodsatroomtemperaturemakesthemsafertoeatthanraworcookedvegetables.Thelacticacidcreatedduringfermentationmakesitimpossibleforbadbacteriatoblossom.Thisprocessworksbestsomewherebetween64and75°F(17.8and24°C).
“WillIgetbotulism/diefromeatingthesefoods?”No.Althoughhumanshavebeenfermentingforthousandsofyears,therearezeroreportedcasesofbotulismassociatedwitheatingfermentedvegetables.Thesamecannotbesaidforanyotherpreservationprocessorevenofrawvegetables.Thisprocessisextremelysafe.
“Arefermentedvegetablesrawfood?”Yes.Heatingvegetablesabove110°F(43.3°C)orsowillkillmanyofthebacteriaresponsibleforsuccessfulvegetablefermentation.
“Isitokaytocookwithferments?”Cookingfermentswillkilltheprobioticbacteria,buttheflavorsthatfermentedfoodscontributetofinisheddishesusuallymakeitwellworththeoccasionalbacterialsacrifice.Keepingfermentedvegetablesbelowapproximately110°F(43.3°C)isbestforkeepingtheprobioticbacteriaaliveandkicking.
“Istherereallyalcoholinthese?”
Yes,thereisasmallamountofalcoholinfermentedvegetables.IntheU.S.,anyfoodordrinkcontaininglessthan0.5percent(1percentinmanyothercountries)alcoholneednotbelabeledascontainingalcohol,sowhilethereisatinyamount,it’snotenoughtoevenwarrantalabel.Youmaybesurprisedtofindthatmanyitemsonthegrocerystoreshelfthatyoualreadyeatcontainsmallamountsofalcohol.Infermentedvegetables,we’retalkingabouttraceamountsandcertainlynothingthatisunsafetofeedtoachildorteetotaler.GarlicHoney(page194),theonlyyeastfermentinthisbook,hasthepotentialtodevelopanalcoholcontentsimilartothatofalower-alcoholmead.
“IsthereanythingIshouldconsiderwhenpurchasingproduce?”Someimportedproduceisirradiatedandwillthereforenotferment.IrradiatedproduceisrequiredtobelabeledintheU.S.andCanada,butyoumayneedtoreadthelabelverycarefullytofindtherelevanttext.Payparticularattentiontofreshgingerandhotpeppers,asthesearefrequentlyimportedandirradiated.Onemoregreatreasontobuylocalandorganic!
“HowdoIknowwhetherthesauerkraut/pickles/kimchiIbuyatthestoreis/areprobiotic?”Cannedvegetablessittingontheshelfinthestoredonotcontainliving,probioticbacteria.Lookforprobioticversionsintherefrigeratedaisle,withlabelsthatsay“containslive,activecultures”orsomethingsimilar.Theseareprobiotic.
Youcanalsolookonlineforsmall,localfermentationcompaniesinyourarea.Transportingfermentedfoodscanbetrickyandexpensiveforproducers,sothehighestqualityproductswillprobablybemadebyalocalcompany.Wonderfully,therearemorelocalproducerspoppingupallthetime!
“IsthereanyvegetableIcan’tferment?”Theoretically,no.Everythingthatgrowsintheearthhasanativepopulationoflacticacidbacteriathatwillundertaketheworkoffermentationintherightconditions.Somevegetablesaremorelikelytoresultinadeliciousandcrispyendproductduetotheirtextureandwatercontent,however.
Kaletendstogetbitterandleafygreenslikespinachandchardtendtomushquicklyandproducelessthandesirableflavors,butdon’tlimityourself!Anythingyouhaveinabundanceisworthtrying.Startsmallwithnew-to-youvegetables.
OntotheRecipes!
OntotheRecipes!Sometimes,whenyou’regettingstarted,youjustwantsomeonetotellyouexactlywhattodo.Forthatreason,detailedinstructionsarelaidoutinrecipesthroughoutthisbook.Beawarethattherearemanydifferentwaystoapproachthisprocess,andifyou’vefoundawaythatworksforyou,keeponkeepin’on!Happyfermenting!
Small-BatchLacticAcidFermentation
Nowthatyou’vegotthebasics,you’rereadytogetstarted.Inthispart,we’llcoverallsortsofrecipesforpickles,kraut,kimchi,andmore.
Mostoftheserecipescallforbatchesofonequartorless.Thisway,you’renotstuckwith3gallons(11.4L)ofpicklesyoudon’tlove,andyou’refreetoexperimentwithasmanyfermentsasyoulike.Youcanchoosewhateversubmersionmethodsuitsyourhomeandyourresources.Thissectionisallaboutfun,flexibility,andlettingtimeandmicrobesmakethingsdelicious.
Pickles
Whenmostpeoplepictureapickle,theythinkofabigjuicy,sourdillcucumberfromthekosherdeli.Thoseare,admittedly,picklesworthyoftheiriconicstatus,buttheworldofpicklesissomuchmorethancucumbers.Picklescanbeanything,fromslicedbeets(CuminBasilBeets,page46)tojicamasticks(PickleMyJicama,page49)tojuliennedrutabaga(RosemaryRutabaga,page60).
Picklesareoneoftheeasiestfermentstomake.Theyrequirefewingredientsandfermentforarelativelyshorttimebeforethey’rereadytobeenjoyed.
Althoughkimchiandkrautarealsopickledvegetablesand,technicallyspeaking,thisentirebookisabookofpickles,forthepurposesofthischapter,apicklewillbeavegetablethatisfermented,wholeorchopped,insaltwaterbrine,or,ifdirectlysalted,avegetablethatisn’tcabbage.
FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles
CuminBasilBeets
RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles
RandomPickleGenerator
SnappyPeaPickles
PickleMyJicama
BánhMìPickles
CurriedCauliflowerPickles
CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad
Raw-tatouille
MintyHakureiTurnips
CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices
AsparagusPickles
PintofPickledPeppers
RosemaryRutabaga
NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles
ZucchiniBreadPickles
SweetPotatoFryNests
CocktailOnionRings
DirtyGibson
ClassicDillPickleSpears
Let’sPickleThat!Gettingstartedisveryeasy.Youonlyneedthreeingredients—vegetables,salt,andwater—andsomekindofcontainer(largejarsworkwell;seepages20to23formoreoptions).Justaboutanyvegetable,fromkohlrabitocarrots,canbefermentedintoflavorful,healthful,deliciouspickles.Somevegetableshavemoreuniversalappealandeffortlesslyfermentintocrispy,flavor-richpickles(seeFoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,page44),whileothersrequireabitmoreattention(ClassicDillPickleSpears,page68).
TheRules,IfYouCanCallThemThatTherearehonestlynotthatmanyrulestopicklefermentation.Youmostlywanttorelyonthethingsthatgiveyouaresultthattastesgoodtoyou.However,thereareafewthingsthatareusuallynecessaryforsafetyandexcellentresults.CHOPYOURVEGETABLES
Choppingvegetablesexposesmoresurfacearea,makingthevegetable’snaturalsugarsmoreavailabletothelacticacidbacteria.Bacterianeedaccesstotheir“food”toefficientlydotheworkoffermentation.SUBMERGEANDCOVER
Ifyoufearmold,orsurfaceyeast,oralessthantastybatch,propersubmersionisyourfriend.Ensurethatyourpicklesstaysubmergedunderathinlayerofbrineduringthefermentationperiod.Thereareseveralmethodsfordoingthis,asdetailedinpartone(pages23to28).GIVEITTIME
Formostvegetables,anythinglessthanthreedaysoffermentationtimeislikelytobeinsufficientforthepickletoreachapHof4.6,thelevelofacidityatwhichitisimpossibleforC.botulinumtosurvive.IfyouwanttobeextracertainthatyourpHislowenough,youcanpurchasepHstripsonline,atanyhomebrewstore,andevenatmanydrugstores,butthetruthis,that’sgenerallynotnecessary.Atthreedays,mostfermentswon’ttastenearlyacidicenoughtoeat.AtfourtofivedaysofroomtemperaturefermentationthereislittlechancethatafermentedvegetableisaboveapHof4.6.Formostpicklelovers,thatwouldbetheearliestthattheflavorwouldbedevelopedenoughtobothereatingthem.FINDTHERIGHTFIT
Submersionisessential,butdon’tfillyourjarhalfwaywithveggiesandthenfillthejarwithbrine.Jarsthataren’tmostlyfullofvegetablesaremorelikelytodevelopsurfacemoldsoryeasts.
Conversely,toolittlespaceinacrampedjarwithvegetablesthatdon’tstaysubmergedcanalsobeaninvitationtosurfacemold.AnoverlycrampedjarmightalsooverflowoncetheCO2startsbubbling,leavingyouwithmessycountersandajarthatneedstoppingoff.
Mybestruleofthumbforjarfermentationistoaddvegetablesuntilyourjarisfulltoabout2inches(5cm)belowthejarrimandtothensubmergethemundera1/4toa1/2inch(5mmto1.5cm)ofbrine,leaving11/2inches(4cm)ofspaceatthetopofthejarbeforetheweightisadded.Whenstartingout,it’sagreatpracticetoplaceyourjarsonplatesorbowls,justincasethereisanyoverflow.
Thejarontheleftlooksgood.Thejarontherightwillbemorepronetosurfaceyeasts.
LOSEYOURCOOL
Iknow.Yourmomtoldyoutotossfoodoutifitaccidentallysatonthecounterovernight.Nodisrespecttoyourmother,butunlikeotherfoods,fermentsareactuallysaferwhenleftatroomtemperature.Myidealfermentationtemperatureforpicklesisbetween68and72°F(20and22.2°C)andatemperaturebetween64and78°F(17.8and25.6°C)ismostlikelytoprovideyourbacteriawiththerightconditionstodotheworkofacidifyingyourfood.Refrigeratortemperatureswillsometimeskeepfermentationfromstartingandwillalwaysslowitdowndramatically,sodon’tputfermentsinthefridgeuntilafterthey’vebeenfermentedtoyourliking.TRYNEWTHINGS
Vegetablefermentationrequiresverylittlerulefollowing.Thatsaid,alloftherecipesinthisbookhavebeencarefullytested,andIdorecommendthatyoufollowthemexactlyifyouwantthesameresultsIhad.Inthefuture,feelfreetousethisbookasajumping-offpointinyourfermentationexperimentation.Saltlevels,vegetablecombinations,timing,andseasoningsare,withfewexceptions,
levels,vegetablecombinations,timing,andseasoningsare,withfewexceptions,adaptabletoyourpreferences.Aslongasyoufollowtheguidelinesdetailedinpartone,it’ssafetoexperimentwiththeserecipes.Seeaseasoningyoudon’tlike?Leaveitout.Haveabrainstormforanadditionyouthinkwouldwork?Goforit.Letcreativity,seasonality,andtastebeyourguides.
NotAllPicklesAreCreatedEqual:CannedPicklesvs.FermentedPicklesCanningisapreservationmethodthroughwhichvegetablesareacidifiedwithhotvinegar.Thevinegaraddsacidityand,alongwithotherseasonings,givescannedpicklestheirflavor.Cannedpicklesarethengivenalong,boilinghotwaterbathtokilloffallmicrobialactivity(mostspecificallythebacteriumresponsibleforbotulism—whichisveryheattolerant—butalsoallofthegood-for-us,probiotic,lacticacidbacteria).Thisprocessallowsforsealedjarstobestoredatroomtemperatureforlongperiodsoftime,oftenayearormore.Thepicklesyoufindongrocerystoreshelvesareproducedusingthismethod.
Cannedpicklesarenotlivingfoods.Theyareshelfstable,sotheywilltastevirtuallythesamewhenyoutakethemoutofthejarastheydidthedaytheywereputin.Likeallcookedfoods,theygenerallyhavefewervitaminsthantherawvegetablesfromwhichthey’remade,theyarenotprobiotic,andtheyhavenospecialhealthbenefits.
Fermentedpicklesaretheoppositeofcannedpickles.Ratherthansterilization,fermentationreliesonthecultivationofgoodbacteria,whichunfailinglydotheworkofkeepingthebadguysatbay.Theselacticacidbacteria,naturallypresentonallvegetables,eatthevegetablesugarsandconvertthemintolacticacidandCO2(seeallthosebubbles?),amongother
things.Thisprocessquicklyandnaturallyeliminatesthedangersposedbybadbacteriaandresultsinaprobiotic,good-bacteria-filledpickle.
Fermentedpicklesshouldusuallybestoredatcoolertemperaturesonceyou’rehappywiththeirflavor,but,becausetheyarelivingfoods,theirflavorandtexturewillcontinuetochangeovertime,evenintherefrigerator.Dependingonyourtastepreferences,thevegetableused,saltlevels,andhowyourpicklesaremadeandstored,theymaykeepforaweekorformorethanayear.
Unliketheircannedcousins,fermentedvegetablesboastmanynotablehealthbenefits,fromloadsofhealthyprobioticstoincreasedvitamincontentandimprovednutrientabsorption.
⊲FOOLPROOFRADISHANDONIONPICKLESStarthere.Inaprettyfoolproofprocess,radishpicklesremainanespeciallyeasyfirststep.Ialwayshaveajarofplainradishpicklesfermentingatmyhouse,simplybecausethey’resoeasytomakeandtastesogoodthatwetendtoeatthewholejarveryquickly.Thesemakeagreatbaseforgluten-free,low-carb,paleo,andveganappetizers,buttobehonest,IusuallyjusteatthemFrenchstyle,toppedwithabitofculturedbutterorentirelywithoutadornment.
Ingredients1/2pound(225g)largeheirloomorcherrybelleradishes,trimmedandunpeeled
1/2smallonion(2ounces,or50g),peeledandslicedintothinrounds
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Cutanysoftorvisuallyunappealingpartsoutoftheradishes,butleaveasmuchaspossibleintact.Sliceinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)thickrounds.Layerradishandonionslicesintoawide-mouthpint(500ml)jar.Thereshouldbeabout11/2inches(4cm)ofspacebetweentheradishesandtherimofthejaroncethey’reallin.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineovertheradishes,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.Youmayneedtopushtheradishesdownwithacleanfingertogaugethefullnessofthejar.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto2weeks.
Onceyourhappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1pint(450g)
CUMINBASILBEETSTheflavorsinthisrecipewerematchedoutofnecessity.Ihadagardenfullofbasilandaspicerackthatwasempty,saveacontainerofcuminseeds.Itwasserendipity,becauseIdon’tthinkIwouldhavediscoveredthisfavoritecomboifI’dhadotheroptions.Todate,thisremainsoneofthemostpopularpicklerecipesonmyblog,andeachyearatthestartofbeetseason,Igetatleastafewkindemailstellingmethattheyarethe“bestpicklesever.”
Ingredients4or5medium-smallbeets(1poundor450g),anyvariety,trimmedbutunpeeled
11/2teaspoons(3.5g)cuminseeds
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
1/8cup(3g)wholebasilleaves,tightlypackedorone6-inch(15cm)stembasil,forusepost-fermentation
Slicethebeetsinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices.
Putthecuminseedsinthebottomofaquartjar(1L)andstackthebeetslicesontop.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejaruntilthebeetsarejustcovered.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placethejaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidityofthebeets,removetheweight,packthebasilleavesintothejar,putthelidon,andsticktheminthefridge.
After2days,removethebasil.Enjoythepicklesatanytime.Storeinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
UsingHerbsandSpicesHerbs:Woodyherbslikethymeandrosemaryholdupjustfineinbrine,butleafierherbslikefreshbasil,mint,andoreganomaydobetterifaddedjustattheendoffermentationandremovedafteracoupleofdaysofinfusing.Tryitbothways.Theworstthingthatcanhappenisthattheherbswillbreakdownabitandtheflavoroftheherbsmaynotbeaspronouncedasyoumightlike.
Spices:Ipreferwholespicesandseedswheneverpossibleinabrinedferment.Powderedspicesaresometimesdifficulttokeepsubmerged,andanythingfloatingonthesurfacecaninviteunappealingsurfaceyeasts.Thisisn’ta100percentrule,butit’ssomethingtokeepinmindwhenyouhavetheoptionorifyoudoendupwithunexplainedsurfaceyeasts.
RUTABAGAHORSERADISHGINGERPICKLESIamalatecomertothepleasuresoffreshhorseradish.AsidefromacertainsaucefromacertainfastfoodrestaurantthatIadoredasakid,Iprettymuchignoredthisknobbyrootuntiljustafewyearsago.WhenIstartedbuyingthefreshrootandgratingit,Ilovedwhatsmallquantitiesadded.Inthisrecipe,itsflavorbalancesthenaturalsweetnessoftherutabaga,whilethefermentationprocessitselftamesthehorseradish.Thesepickleswouldmakeagreatadditiontoaroastbeefsandwich.
Ingredients1/2medium,unwaxedrutabaga(1/2pound,225g)
1inch(2.5cm)oftrimmed,unpeeledginger
1tablespoon(15g)grated,unpeeledhorseradishroot
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Trimthetopoffoftherutabaga.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.
Cuttherutabagainto1/2-inch(1.5cm)thick,3-to4-inch(7.5to10cm)longbatons.Slicethegingerintothinrounds,cuttingoutanysoftpartsortough-to-cleancrevices.
Placethehorseradishandgingerinthebottomofapint(500ml)jarandstandtherutabagasticksontopofthem,tiltingthejartothesideabittomakeroomtoslidethepiecesinmoreeasily.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopoftherutabaga.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor10daysto3weeks.
daysto3weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(450g)
RANDOMPICKLEGENERATORFermentationisflexible!Don’tbelieveme?Trythisrecipe.Allofthevegetableslistedherefermentverywell,especiallywhenfermentedinamix.Ihaven’ttestedeverypossibleiterationofthisrecipe,soIcan’tpromisethatyou’lllovethemall,butmostofthetime,thisishowIfermentforhomeuse.WhatdoIhaveintheproducedrawer?I’llusethat!Whatlooksgoodatthemarket?Oh,I’lltakethree!Ihopethisencouragesyoutousewhatyoualreadyhaveathometomakehealthfulanddeliciouspickles.
Ingredients1/4pound(115g)anycombinationofzucchini,summersquash,andbellpeppers
1/4pound(115g)anycombinationofonion,shallots,leeks,andgingerroot
1/2pound(225g)anycombinationofradishes,celery,beets,brusselssprouts,cauliflower,andcarrots
1or2clovesofgarlic(optional)
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Chopthezucchini,summersquash,and/orbellpeppersinto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)thickstrips.Peelanddicetheonionsandshallots,slicetheleeksinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)rounds,andgratetheginger.Choptheradishes,celery,beets,brusselssprouts,cauliflower,and/orcarrotsinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces.Peelandhalvethegarliccloves.
Placethegarlicinthebottomofaquart(1L)jarandplaceallthevegetablesontop,puttingthesmallestpiecesonthebottomandthelargestpiecesontop.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineoverthevegetables,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrinejustcoveringthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureforabout2weeks.
forabout2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1quart(900g)
SNAPPYPEAPICKLESSnappeasarehardtoferment.Notbecausethey’reactuallydifficult,butbecauseyouhavetonoteatthemallonyourwayhomefromthemarketifyouwantthemtomakeittothejar.I’velearnedtobuydoublewhatIthinkI’llneedsothatIcanhaveafewpintsgoingthroughoutthespring.Besuretotrimtheends—itkeepsthepeascrispandreducestheoddsofunsightlysurfaceyeasts.
Zestof1lemon
Two2-inch(5cm)sprigsofgardenmint
2cups(150g)snappeas,endstrimmed
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Placethelemonzestandmintinthebottomofapint(500ml)jarandthenaddthesnappeas.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthepeas,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5daysto2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1pint(450g)
Likepeppers,snappeasmayhaveabitmorewhitesedimentthanothervegetables.That’snormalandfine.
PICKLEMYJICAMALoversofMexicancuisinewillknowthefresh,juicyflavorofjicamawell.Ifrequentlypicklejicamawithwell-lovedflavorsofMexico,includinglime,garlic,radishes,andcilantro,soIwassurprisedwhen,onawhim,Isubbedthoseseasoningsoutinfavorofwholestaranise.Thewarmbakingspiceturnedouttobetheperfectcomplementtothecrisp,coolfleshofthejicama.Lookforathin-skinnedvegetablewithfewblemishesforaprimopickle.Ifyoucanonlyfindthicker-skinnedjicama,it’sfinetotrimthepeelsoffafterfermentation.
1small(3/4pound,340g)jicama
3wholestaranise
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Cutanysoftpartsorblemishesfromtheoutsideofthejicama,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.Cutthejicamainto1/2inch(1.5cm)thicksticks.
Placethestaraniseinthebottomofapint(500ml)jar.Standthejicamaslicesonendinthejar,pressingthemtogetherasnecessarytofitthepiecesintothejar.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopofthejicama.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1pint(450g)
⊲BÁNHMÌPICKLESAlthoughbánhmìactuallymeans“bread”inVietnamese,intheU.S.,thetermgenerallyreferstothedelightfulsandwichthatperfectlyalignsmanywonderfulflavorsandtextures.Unsurprisingly,myfavoritepartofabánhmìsandwichisthepickledmixofdaikonandcarrotthatprovidestexture,moisture,andloadsofflavor.Thisfermentedversionisnontraditional,withlesssweetnessandmoreflavorthanthetypicalblendfoundinsandwichshops.Ifyouwantthesweeterversiononyoursandwich,tossthefinishedpickleswith2teaspoons(12g)ofsugarpercup(225g)justbeforeserving.
Ingredients1daikon,about1pound(450g)
4carrots,about1pound(450g)total
4teaspoons(23g)koshersalt
1jalapeñopepper
11/2clovesofgarlic,peeled
Juliennethedaikonandcarrots.Placeinabowlandtosswiththesalt.
Slicethejalapeñolengthwiseintotwoequalhalves.Setitaside.
Thinlyslicethegarlicandtossitinwiththerootmixture.
Aftersittingwiththesaltforashortwhile,thecarrotsanddaikonwillhavereleasedsomemoisture.Takeasmallhandfulofthenowdampvegetablesandpackthemintoaquart(1L)jar.Lay1jalapeñohalfcut-sideagainstthesideofthejar,pushthepointedendintothevegetablemixtureatthebottomofthejar,andpacktherootsinaroundit.Oncethepepperisheldinplace,puttheotherjalapeñohalfagainstanothersideofthejarandpackmoredaikoncarrotmixturearoundituntilallofthevegetablesareinthejarandthejalapeñohalvesarepressedagainstthesidesofthejar.
Pressdownonthevegetablesinthejartodrawthemaximumamountofbrinetothesurface.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1weekoruntilthedesiredacidityisachieved.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
VegetableA-peelAlthoughwashingvegetablesincoolwaterisgreat,peelingvegetablesforfermentationisano-no.Themajorityofthebacterianecessaryforfermentationliveontheskinsofvegetables.Apeeledvegetablemayfailtoferment,oritmayfermentextraordinarilyslowly,leadingtoissueswithtextureormold.
CURRIEDCAULIFLOWERPICKLESCauliflowerandcurryareaclassiccombinationforgoodreason.Iliketoservethesepicklesalongsideseasonedricedishesorinwintersalads(trythemwithdressedkale).Thisrecipeisanexceptiontotheno-powdered-spices-in-brinerule.Thecurrypowderwillmostlysitatthebottomofthejar,butitsflavorwillinfusethroughoutthebrineduringfermentation.
1tablespoon(6.5g)currypowder
1/2head(12ounces,or340g)cauliflower,choppedintosmallflorets
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater,atroomtemperature
Placethecurrypowderinaquart(1L)jarandthenaddtheflorets.Thefloretsmayneedtobemaneuveredabittofit,butdon’tpushthemsohardthattheybreakapart.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineovertheflorets,pressingthemdownwithcleanfingerstomakesurethey’resubmerged.Thejarshouldbefulltoabout11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor10daysto2weeks.Thetextureofthecauliflowerwillremainlargelyunchanged.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲CURRIEDCAULIFLOWERPICNICSALADThisismygo-topicnicpotluckcontribution.Withtheexceptionofthelow-fatcrowd,thisisdoableforjustaboutanydiet.Ifyou’rebringingittoagatheringwithveganfriends,subveganmayo.Ifyourfriendsareallpaleo,considerahomemadeversionmadewithyourfavoritenutoil.Whichevermayoyouuse,thisisacrowd-pleaser,anditneverlastslong.
1/3cup(75g)mayonnaise
2teaspoons(10g)Dijonorsweethotmustard
1quart(900g)CurriedCauliflowerPickles,drained
2stalksofcelery,trimmedandslicedcrosswise
2scallions,trimmedandslicedintothinrounds
Combinethemayonnaiseandmustardinalargebowl.Addthecauliflowerandtosstocoat.Mixintheceleryandscallions.Enjoychilled.
Yield:4servings(1cup[225g]each)
RAW-TATOUILLEThistakeonafamoustasteofProvencemakesuseofthebestend-of-summervegetables.Unlikethecookedversion,thisrawratatouilleisloadedwithprobioticbacteriaandmakesanexcellentsummersaladoncechilledanddrained.YoucanuseyourowncombinationofMediterraneanspicesifyoulike,buttheherbesdeProvencespiceblendcalledforintherecipe(acombinationofsavory,marjoram,rosemary,thyme,oregano,andsometimeslavender)willhaveyoudreamingofwhitewashed,cliff-sidedwellingsandblueseas.
Ingredients1/2smallItalianeggplant(7ounces,or200g),cutinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices
1/2redbellpepper(3ounces,or75g),stem,seeds,andpithremoved
1/4largeonion(2ounces,or60g),peeled
2teaspoons(2.5g)whole-spiceherbesdeProvence
3smallzucchini(13ounces,or360g),endstrimmed,cutinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes
2smallyellowsummersquash(81/2ounces,or240g),endstrimmed,cutinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes
11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt
3cups(700ml)filteredwater
1/2cup(20g)freshbasilleaves,chopped,forgarnish
Quartertheeggplantslicesandchopthebellpepperandonioninto1-inch(2.5cm)squares.
PlacetheherbesdeProvenceintoa1/2-gallon(2L)jar(orsplitevenlybetween2quart[1L]jars).Placeallthevegetablesinthejar.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineoverthevegetables,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineintothejar.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronaplateandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureinaspotawayfromdirectsunlightfor5to7days.Whenready,thevegetablesshouldtastequitetangy,butthezucchinishouldstillbecrisp.
tastequitetangy,butthezucchinishouldstillbecrisp.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Storeinthebrine,butdrainandtosswiththechoppedbasilbeforeservingasasidedish.
Yield:2quarts(1.8kg)
MINTYHAKUREITURNIPSHakureiturnipsaretheperfectlyround,diminutive,whiteturnipsthathavetakenfarmers’marketsacrossthecountrybystorminrecentyears.TheyhailfromJapanandtheirflavorismilderthantheirlargerturnipcounterparts.Theyhaveadelightful,juicycrunchthatlendsitselfperfectlytopickling.Whilemintmaybeanunexpectedpairing,itmakesforatrulyrefreshingpickle.
Ingredients1pound(450g)hakureiorothersmallturnips,greensremoved
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Three3-inch(7.5cm)sprigsoffreshgardenmint,forusepost-fermentation
Trimandquartertheunpeeledturnipsandplacetheminaquart(1L)jar.Thereshouldbeaboutaninch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthetopofthevegetablesandtherimofthejar.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperature,awayfromdirectsunlight,for1to2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweightandstickthemintspringsintothejar,weightingthemdownwithpickles.Securethelidandplacethejarinthefridge.After3days,youmayremovethemintsprigs.Yourmintyturnipsarereadytoeat!
Yield:1quart(900g)
CARROTCARAWAYTURNIPSLICESIfIhadinventedthedeli,carrotturnippickleswouldprobablybethestandardpickle.Thisworkswellasbothasandwichfillingandasandwichaccompaniment.Lineasliceofbreadwithafewofthesebabiesanditprettymuchdoesn’tmatterwhatelseyouadd.
Ingredients
1turnip(1/2pound,or225g)
1smallcarrot(1/4pound,or115g)
1teaspoon(2g)carawayseeds
1teaspoon(4g)mustardseeds
1teaspoon(6g)salt
1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater
Trimthetopoffoftheturnip.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.
Cuttheturnipandcarrotinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)thickslices.Iftheturnipsliceshaveadiameterwiderthanthediameterofthejar,simplycuttheminhalf.
Placethecarawayandmustardseedsinapint(500ml)jarandlayertheturnipandcarrotslicesontop.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to3weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(450g)
ASPARAGUSPICKLESWhenIspotlocalasparagusintheproducesection,Iknowthatthedaysofsnuggiesandstewsarecomingtoanend.Ialwaysmakeanearlyspringbatchofthesepicklestoreorientmytastebudstothecool,freshflavorsofwarmerseasons.Lookformedium-widthasparagusspearsthatareroughlyequalinsize.Servetheseasasidedishorasabeautifulbedforpoachedeggsatbrunch.
Ingredients1pound(450g)asparagus
1teaspoon(4g)mustardseeds
3clovesofgarlic,peeled
Peel(withoutpith)of1/2ofalemon
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
2cups(475ml)filteredwater
Trimthewoodyendsoffoftheasparagusspears.Takeonespearandstanditinaquart(900g)jar.Itstipshouldfall1to2inches(2.5to5cm)belowtherimofthejar.Ifthespearistootall,trimmore,testagain,andthentrimallotherpiecestomatchitslength.
Placethemustardseeds,garlic,andlemonpeelintoaquart(1L)jarandthenfittheasparagusspearsintothejar,standingthespearsonend.Tiltingthejarsidewayswillhelpyoufitmorespearsinwithoutdamagingthem.Donotcramordamagethespears.Smashedendsmayleadtounpleasantsliminess.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineovertheasparagus,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5daysto2weeks.
for5daysto2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲PINTOFPICKLEDPEPPERSThefirsttimeImadepickledpeppers,Iwasprettysad.Itwasearlyinmyfermentationhabit,andIhadgrownaccustomedtoaset,2-weekfermentationtimeresultinginflawlesspicklesofallkinds.WhenIcrackedthatpepperjar,theywereverysoft.Theysmelledincredible,soItookabite(theytastedgreat),butthatwaswhenIlearnedthatnotallvegetableswerecreatedequalwherefermentationisconcernedandsomerequirelesstime.Isometimesstillfermentthemforlongerthan2weeks,thentossthemintosaladsortoppizzaswiththem,butforacrispybellpepper,5to6daysdoesthetrick.
Ingredients1smallredbellpepper,stems,pith,andseedsremoved
1smallgreenbellpepper,stems,pith,andseedsremoved
2clovesofgarlic,peeledandroasted
Zestof1lemon
1teaspoon(3g)capers
1teaspoon(1.5g)packedfreshoreganoleaves(or1/2teaspoon[0.5g]dried)
Pinchofredpepperflakes(optional)
1sprigofbasil,leftwhole
2teaspoons(12g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Slicethepeppersinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)strips.Placethegarlic,lemonzest,capers,oregano,andredpepperflakesinapint(500ml)jar.Gentlypackthepepperstripsin,standingthemonendtocreateastripedappearancewhenthejarisviewed.Alternatingredandgreenslicesmakesforaprettypickle.
Pressthebasilsprigintothemiddleofthepeppers.Thisisarelativelyshortfermentationperiod,soyoudon’thavetoworryaboutitbecomingmushy.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthepeppers,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopoftheradishes.Aspaceshouldremainatthetopofthejaroncethebrinehasbeenadded.
shouldremainatthetopofthejaroncethebrinehasbeenadded.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to6days.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1pint(450g)
Pepperpicklebrinebecomesquitecloudyduringfermentation,sodon’tbeconcernedifthishappenstoyours.
⊲ROSEMARYRUTABAGAThissimplecombinationwasinspiredbyadishImadeformyveryfirstThanksgivinginCalifornia.AtmyMichiganfamily’sfeast,mashedrutabagaisderigueur.MyCalifornianin-lawsweren’tquiteasattachedtothisunderappreciatedvegetablesuperstar,soImadeitmybusinesstoconvincethem—usingcopiousamountsofgarlicandafewsprigsfromtheenormousrosemarybushthatlived,year-round,outsidemyMontereyapartment.Morethanoneofmynewrelativeswaswonoverbythehumblerootthatday,andnowImakethedishwheneverIvisitfortheholidays.
Ingredients1/2largeunwaxedrutabaga(12ounces,or340g)
2clovesofgarlic,peeledandthinlysliced
2teaspoons(12g)koshersalt
Two5-inch(13cm)sprigsoffreshrosemary
Trimthetopoffoftherutabaga.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.
Usingamandoline,ifpossible,cuttherutabagainto1/4inch(0.5cm)widematchsticks.Ifpreppingbyhand,cut1/4-inch(0.5cm)slicesandthencuteachsliceinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)matchsticks.
Inalargebowl,tossthegarlicandrutabagawiththesaltusingcleanhands.Continuetossingandgentlysqueezethevegetablesuntiltheyaredampandthereisasmallamountofliquidinthebottomofthebowl.
Packathirdoftherutabagamixtureintothebottomofapint(500ml)jar.Packtightly,withcleanfingers.Wraponesprigofrosemaryaroundtheinsideofthejar,aspictured.Packanotherthirdoftherutabagamixtureontopandrepeatwithfinalthirdofrutabaga.Pouranyliquidfromthebowlintothejar.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to3weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilledoratroomtemperature.
Yield:1pint(450g)
NUTTYBRUSSELSSPROUTPICKLESOneofmyveryfavoritewaystoeatbrusselssproutsisthebraisedandglazedsproutsfromMarkBittman’sHowtoCookEverything.Imaketherecipeexactlyasdirectedrightupuntiltheend,whenIaddabitofroastedgarlic,somechoppedhazelnuts,andaspoonfulofmustardtofinishthemoff.IlovetheflavorssomuchthatIdecidedtheywouldmakeanexcellentpickle.Theydo!There’snoneedtogettheskinsoffthehazelnuts.Thefermentationprocessneutralizesthebitternessthatyousometimesgetwhencookingorbakinghazelnutswiththeskinon.Brusselssproutsdefinitelyfallintothestinkyfermentcamp,sobepreparedforabitofextraaroma.
Ingredients1pound(450g)brusselssprouts,trimmed
5clovesofgarlic,peeled
20hazelnuts,chopped
2tablespoons(22g)mustardseed
4teaspoons(23g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Cuteachbrusselssproutinhalflengthwise.Placethegarlic,hazelnuts,andmustardseedsintoaquart(1L)jar.Topwiththebrusselssprouthalves.Youmayneedtomaneuverthebrusselssproutssothattheyfitinthejarwith1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofspacebelowtherimofthejar.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to6weeksorlongerincoldermonths.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1quart(900g)
ZUCCHINIBREADPICKLESIhaveanenduringloveforzucchinibreadthatdoesn’tjivesowellwithmydesiretoavoidloadsofprocessedsugar.Sowhenmyhusband,Jake,suggestedItrymakingapickleversion,IonlycalledhimcrazythreetimesbeforeIgottoworkonarecipe.Thispickleisn’tsweet,butitmightjustreplaceyoursweettoothwithasourone.
Ingredients5smallzucchini,endstrimmed(1pound,or450g)
1largepinchofpowderednutmeg,preferablyfreshlyground
1tablespoon(2g)looseblacktea,or2or3teabags
2tablespoons(15g)coarselychoppedwalnuts
2cinnamonsticks
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Cutthezucchinilengthwiseintoquarters.
Placethenutmeg,tea,walnuts,andcinnamonsticksintoaquart(1L)jarinthatorder.Fitthezucchinipiecesintothejar,standingthespearsonend.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothezucchini,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthezucchini.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureinaspotawayfromdirectsunlightfor4days.Goadayshorterifyourhomeisparticularlywarmoradaylongerifyourhomeisparticularlycool.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridgeforuptoaweek(oruntiltheyarenolongercrisp).See“CucumbersandOtherTrickyPickles”onpage69forzucchinipicklingtips.
Yield:1quart(900g)
WhattoDowithaFloppyPickleJustbecauseafermenthasgonesoftinthebackofthefridgedoesn’tmeanit’sreadyforthecompostpile.Softnessmightmeanafermentispastitsprimefromatexturestandpoint,butitdefinitelydoesn’tmeanithasnomoretooffer.Fermentedpicklesandtheirbrinesareloadedwithflavorandacid,whichmakesthemgreatcandidatesforculinaryexperimentation.Addthemtosoupsorstews.Strainandpuréethemintodipsorsauces.Yourimaginationistheonlylimitonthesecondlifeofthesekitchenheroes.
⊲SWEETPOTATOFRYNESTSAFrenchchefonceexplainedtomethatalthoughhepridedhimselfonfrom-scratchcooking,henevermadefriesin-house.“It’simpossibletodothemrightinakitchenthissize,”hesaid.HewentontoexplainthattheonlywaytogetareallygreatFrenchfrywastosoakthepotatoesforatleast36hoursbeforefrying.Essentially,allgreatfries(likeallgreatfood,inmybiasedopinion)arefermentedbeforethey’refried.Thefermentationprocesseliminatestheriskofaharmfulcompoundcalledacrylamidefromformingduringcookingandgreatlyimprovesthetextureofthefinalfries.Therearetwooptionshere,bakedanddeep-fried.Unsurprisingly,thefriedversionisgreatlypreferredbymyfriendsandfamily,butthebakedversiondoescomeoutcrispyandbetterthanthevastmajorityofrestaurantshoestringfriesyou’lleverorder.AndlikeanygreatFrenchfry,thisisdefinitelynothealthfood.Enjoywithketchuporpoachedeggsandkale.
Ingredients1largesweetpotato(2pounds,or900g),spiralized,skinon
41/2teaspoons(28g)koshersalt
11/2cups(355ml)filteredwater
1quart(940ml)high-heatoil
Placethesweetpotatoesinaquart(1L)jar.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthesweetpotatoes.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.
Draintheliquidfromthesweetpotatoesandspreadthemoutinasinglelayeronalargekitchentowel.Patdry.
Pourtheoilintoa3-quart(2.7L),heavy-bottomedpotandheatto400°F(200°C).Whileyou’rewaitingfortheoiltoheat,continuepattingthesweetpotatoesdry.Pullthemapartandpilethemupsothateachlongstrandbecomesalittlenest.Therewillbeafewoddsandends.Thosecanbemadeintotheirownpilesofsimilarsizetothesingle-strandnests.
Lineaplatterwithpapertowels.
Oncetheoiltemperaturehits400°F(200°C),it’stimetostartfrying.Workinginbatches,useaspoontolowereachnestintotheoil.Fry3or4nestsatatimetoavoidovercrowding.Fryfor45secondsto1minute.Ifthey’vestartedbrowning,they’vegonetoolong.Useaslottedspoontoremovethemandplacethemonthepapertowels.
Allowthetemperaturetoreturnto400°F(200°C)beforefryingthenextbatch.Repeatuntilallofthepotatoeshavebeenfried.Theoilcanbereusedforotherpurposesforseveraldays.
Yield:Approximately20frynests
Variations:Addthezestof1smalllemonand2teaspoonsofdriedsageleavestothejarbeforeaddingthesweetpotatoesforfermentation.Discardtheseasoningsbeforefrying.
Forbakednests:Tossthedrainedsweetpotatoeswith1to2tablespoons(15to30ml)ofoliveormeltedcoconutoil.Separateintonestsandbake
themonparchmentpaperat400°f(200°c,orgasmark6)for15minutesoruntilcrispy.
COCKTAILONIONRINGSTheclassicpearlonionspickledforcocktailusecanbeapaininthealliumtopeel.Iavoidthatproblembymakingtheseonion“rings”instead.Theyfitnicelyinamartiniglassandrequiremuchlesseffort.Teetotalerscanenjoythesepiledhighonaburgerorsandwich.
2medium-smallonions(51/2ounces,or150geach),peeled
8juniperberries
2allspiceberries
Peelof1lemon
1tablespoon(5g)peppercorns
2bayleaves
3-inch(7.5cm)sprigoffreshthyme
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Cuttheonionsinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slices.
Placetheseasoningsintoawide-mouthpint(500ml)jarandstacktheonionslicesontopofthem,fillingthejarto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineovertheonions.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(450g)
Theonionsforthisrecipeshouldbechosenfortheirdiameter(slicesneedtobeabletostackinsidethejar).Ifyourwidestonionsliceisalittletoowide,justremoveanouterringanduseitforanotherpurpose.
⊲DIRTYGIBSONWhenlife(oryourownhandykitchenskills)givesyoupickledonions,makegindrinks!Willdrinkingthismakeyouhealthier,wealthier,orwiser?Nope!Butitwillmakeyourtastebudssing.
1or2CocktailOnionRings
4teaspoons(20ml)brinefromCocktailOnionRings
21/2ounces(75ml)gin
3/4teaspoon(4ml)dryvermouth
Placetheonionringsinamartiniglass.Shakethebrine,gin,andvermouthwithiceinacocktailshakerandstrainintoaglass.Servechilled.
Yield:1cocktail
CLASSICDILLPICKLESPEARSItisprettyhardtobeatadelipickle.Theseflavorscanbeagatewaytoawholeworldoffermentedfun.Believeitornot,though,theclassicpickleisoneofthemostdifficulttomake.Followthetipsandtricksonthenextpage,andyou’lldojustfine.
Ingredients1pound(450g)freshlypickedKirbycucumbers
1tablespoons(11g)mustardseeds
1bulbofgarlic,peeled
2teaspoons(3.5g)peppercorns
4dillheadsor1/2abunchoffreshdill
4grapeleaves
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Washthecukeswellandsoaktheminicewaterfor30minutes.Thistendstohelpthemstayfirmduringfermentation.
Removeanddiscardaverythinslicefromeachendofthecucumbers.Cutthecucumbersintolongquarters.
Placethemustardseeds,garlic,peppercorns,dillheads,andgrapeleavesintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthecucumberspears.
Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthecucumbers,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3days.
Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Allowtheflavorstoinfuseforanotherweekbeforeeating.Oncethey’reready,enjoywithin2weeksforbesttexture.
within2weeksforbesttexture.
Yield:1quart(900g)
CucumbersandOtherTrickyPicklesCucumbersareeasilythemosticonicvegetabletopickle.Andyet,they’reprobablythemostdifficultvegetabletoferment!Hereareafewsimpletricksthatwillhaveyoumakingperfectcucumberpickleseverytime.Thesetipsalsohelpwithzucchini(ZucchiniBreadPickles,page63),summersquash,andothersoftvegetables.
•Keepitshort.Withmostvegetablefermentation,timingisrelative.Thelongeritferments,themoresouritwillbe,soitbecomesamatterofpreference.Withsoftvegetableslikecucumbers,however,theshortertimingrecommendationsineachrecipeshouldbemorestrictlyobserved;otherwise,youmayopenupajarofmushinsteadofagorgeous,crispypickle.
•Trytannins.Mushytextureandhollowpicklesyndromearecommonproblemsthatarisewhenpicklingcucumbers.Onewaytohelppreventtheseissuesistoaddtannins.Tannins(seepage160)helpstrengthenthepectinsinthevegetablesandkeeppicklescrispy!
•Removetheblossomend.Theblossomend,orthenon-stemend,ofacucumberisasafehavenforthekindsofenzymesthatcausefoodtorot.Removingthetiniestsliveroftheblossomendremovessomeofthoseenzymes,resultinginacrisperpickleandonelesslikelytoturntomush.
•Gosmall.Smallerisbetterwhenitcomestocucumberfermentation,anddon’tevenbothertryingtofermentslicers.SticktothesmallestKirbys(smallpicklingcucumbers)youcanfind.
•Seasonfreely.Perhapsit’sbecausethey’reoftenleftwholeduringfermentation,butcucumberpicklesrequiremoreseasoningthanotherpickledvegetables.WhereImightuseacoupleclovesofgarlicforabeetpickle,I’duseabulbforacucumberpickle.Thisistrueforherbsandspicesaswell.
•Fermenttheharvest.Thefreshnessofthecucumberisprobablythemostimportantconsiderationonthislist.Don’tbotherwithgrocerystorecucumbers;growthemyourselforbuythemfromafarmers’marketand
makesurethatyougetthemsubmergedinbrineassoonasyoucan.Evenafewdaysoffthevinecanmakeforaholloworsoftpickle.
•Eat’emup.Mostfermentedvegetableswilleasilylastformonthsinthefridge(notthatyou’llbeabletoresistthemforthatlong!).Cucumberpickleswilloccasionallykeepfortwoormoremonths(Ioncefoundaperfectjarayearafterfermentation!),butmorecommonly,you’llwanttoeatthemquickly,whiletheystillhavethebest,crispbite.
Kraut
Iliveintherealworld.Iknowthat,althoughfewthingsmakemymouthwatermorethanthethoughtofcrackingintoajarofthisclassicfermentedfood,theideaoffermentedcabbagecanbechallengingfortheuninitiated.Thosewho’vejoinedtheclanofkrautmakers,though,knowthat“fermented”issynonymouswith“delicious.”
Forfermenterswholiketoexperiment,sauerkrautcanbeablankcanvasonwhichtopaintapictureassimpleorascomplexasyoulike.AjaroftheSimplestSauerkraut(page76)isanythingbutplain.Theacidsandothercompoundscreatedduringfermentationgiveitanenormousamountofdistinctiveflavor,eventhoughnoseasoningshavebeenadded.Whenyoudoaddseasonings,youcantakesauerkrautindirectionsthatmayinitiallyseemsurprising(SauerkrautSatay,page90).Thepoweroffermentationsomehowmanagestobringitalltogetherbeautifully.Itisnoexaggerationtosaythatsauerkrautcanbeenjoyedateverymeal,includingdessert(CarrotCakeKraut,page98).
SimplestSauerkraut
Ava’sHotPinkKraut
StuffingKraut
KrautytheVampireSlayer
ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut
SauerkrautSlaw
Heat-Lover’sKraut
DillyRootKraut
MediterraneanKraut
NewWorldRyeKraut
NutsforKraut
SauerkrautSatay
GingerBeetKraut
SauerkrautPickledEggs
MirepoixKraut
SuperSourCitrusKraut
PreservedLemonGingerKraut
CarrotCakeKraut
TipsandGuidelinesThegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytotherecipesinthischapter,buthereareafewsauerkraut-specifictipsandguidelines.
ChoosingtheCabbageRed,green,andsavoyareonlyafractionofyourcabbageoptions.HereinPennsylvania(otherwiseknowasAmericanKrautCountry),farmers’marketssometimesoffersuchawidevarietyofheirloomcabbagesthatitcangetoverwhelming.Ihaveyettofermentacabbagethatdidn’tmakedelectablekraut,butthevaryingwatercontentandleafdensityofdifferentvarietiescanmakeforaslightlydifferentfinalproduct.Redcabbage,forinstance,takesabitlongertofermenttothatclassickrauttexturethangreendoes.It’snothingtobeconcernedwith.Ifyouseeabeautifulcabbagethatyoureallywanttouse,doit,andgloryintheminordifferencesthatmakethatbatchunique.
CuttingtheCabbageForsomepeople,theactofchoppingcabbageforsauerkrautisamomentofZeninahecticworld—awaytounwindwithsomehands-oninteraction.Ifthat’syou,gonuts.Havesomelargebowlsandaverysharpchef’sknifeonhand.Cutoutthecore,removeanywiltedouterleaves,andshootforstripsthatarerelativelyuniformandabout1/4inch(0.5cm)wide.
Forthelazyamongus(that’sme!),therearefoodprocessorswithslicingandgratingblades,boxgraters,mandolines,andevenspecializedcabbageshredders
gratingblades,boxgraters,mandolines,andevenspecializedcabbageshreddersmadeforthisexpresspurpose.Dowhatworksbestforyou.
Withfewexceptions,thecabbageinthischapterwasshreddedusingtheslicerbladeonmyfoodprocessor,intoapproximately1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Recipesthatweregratedwillbenotedassuchintherecipe.Thesaltingprocessdrainswaterfromthecabbageandshrinksitsignificantlyasaresult.IfyouchoosetograteyourcabbagewhereI’veslicedit,knowthatsmallerpiecesfermentabitmorequickly,soyoumightwanttostarttastingforyourpreferredaciditylevelaweekorsoearlierthantherecipecallsfor.Smallerpiecesalsotakeuplessjarspaceandabsorbseasoningsmorereadily,soaddacouplemoreounces(15to30g)ofcabbageandreducetheseasoningsabitifyoudecidetoadapttherecipesthisway.
Youcanalsoopttoleavethehardcabbagecoreinthefermentifyou’dlike,butthosepiecesfermentmoreslowlythantherestofthecabbage,sobepreparedforsomedivergenttexturesandaciditylevelswithinyourkraut.Ifyouwantamoreuniformkrautbutdon’twanttocompostthecores,slicethemthinandfermentthemseparatelyinbrineascabbagecorepickles.
SavingtheLeavesWhenyou’repreppingyourheadofcabbage,besuretoremoveanyouterleavesthatareabitwiltedandlessthanlovely.Seethe“HowtoMakeaCabbageShelf”(page75)forhowtoputthemtogooduse.
MassagingtheCabbageTreatyourcabbagetoaspaday!Gentlymassagingyourcabbageaftersaltinghelpsthesaltpenetratethecellwallsandincreasesthespeedwithwhichthecabbagegivesupitsinternalwater.Whenyousaltthecabbage,tosswellforevendistributionandthenleaveitalonefor20minutesorsowhileyouprepareyourotheringredients.Whenyoucomeback,thesaltedcabbagewillbemorepliable—relaxed,highonincensefumes,andlisteningtothesweetmelodiesofthepanflutewhileitawaitsthegentlepressureofyourhandsthatwilltransformitintoajar-readysubstance.
PackingaJarorCrockPackingyourvesselisoneofthemostimportantsteps.Whenapproachedproperly,youshouldlookatthebowlofsaltedcabbageandthink,“Thereisnowayallthatcabbageisgoingtofitintothatjar.”
Workingwithsmallhandfulstostart,carefullypackthecabbageintothejarsothatitsliquidrisestothetop.Onceyouhavethejaraboutone-thirdfull,press
sothatitsliquidrisestothetop.Onceyouhavethejaraboutone-thirdfull,pressdownonthejarredcabbagewithaflatfist.Holdingyourfistthere,useyourotherhandtopourthecabbageliquidoutofthejar.Thatwillgiveyouroomtoaddmorecabbage.
AddingSeasoningsUnlikebrinedpickles,sauerkrautadorespowderedspices.You’lllikelyloseabitofseasoning,beitwholeorpowderedspices,intheextrabrinethatresultsfromsaltingandnevermakesitintoyourjar,andthat’sallright.Youcanmitigatethatbydrainingtheexcessliquidoffaftermassaging,butpriortomixingtheseasoningsin.Reservethatdrainedliquid,though.Youmayneedtopoursomeofitbackintoyourjarasaliquidbarrieronceallofthecabbageispackedinside.
Pouringliquidoutmakesroomformorecabbage.
FermentingConditionsSauerkrautgenerallybenefitsfromalongerandcoolerfermentationtime.
Sauerkrautgenerallybenefitsfromalongerandcoolerfermentationtime.Althoughitwillbesafetoeatafterjustafewdaysofroomtemperaturefermentation,itdoesn’treachpeakflavorandtextureuntilseveralweekshavepassed.Iencourageyoutotastefrequentlyduringyourfirstattempttofindoutwhatyourpreferenceis.Sauerkrautbecomesmoresourthelongeritferments.
BubblingYoursauerkrautwillbubblevigorouslyintheearlydays,butthatactivitywillslowasthepredominantbacteriapopulationshifts.Thisisnormalandgood.Justbecauseitisn’tbubblingvigorouslydoesnotmeanthatfermentationhasstopped.
HowtoMakeaCabbageShelfThoseless-than-perfectoutercabbageleavesyousetasidearegoodformorethanthecompostpile.Thatsturdyribmakesagreatshelfforyourchosenfermentationweight,andtheleafypartarounditcanbetuckeddownaroundthesidesofyourkrautorpiledupandpresseddownontopoftherib,creatingalayerthatprotectsthesurfaceofyoursauerkrautfromanysurfaceyeaststhatcouldform.
Tomakeyourshelf,simplytearawaytheouteredgesofaleafuntilyou’releftwithapiecethatisroughlytwiceaslargeasyourjaropening.Presstheribontothetopofthecabbageandtucktheleafyendsdownaroundthesidesofthekraut.Poursomeoftheremainingbrineoverthetopoftheleaf,leaving11/2to2inches(4to5cm)ofspacebetweenthesurfaceofthebrineandtherimofthejar.
Whenthekrauttastessourenough,youcandiscardtheleafandrefrigeratethekraut.
⊲SIMPLESTSAUERKRAUTInitssimplestform,sauerkrauthasjusttwoingredients:saltandcabbage.Considerthisrecipethejumping-offpointforallotherrecipesinthischapter.Useittogainanunderstandingofthesimplicityoftheprocessandthefactthateverythingelseisoptional.Tastingatwo-ingredientkrautcangiveyouaseriousappreciationfortheimmenseamountofflavorthatcomesfromthefermentationprocessalone.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage.Keeponehandy.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbageincoolwater.
Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestripsusingasharpchef’sknife,theslicerbladeofyourfoodprocessor,amandoline,orakrautshredder.
Placetheshreddedcabbageintoalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Thesalthassuccessfullydrawnsomewaterfromthecabbage.
Younowhavetheoptionofcontinuingtogentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageorlettingthesaltandcabbagecontinueosmosiswhileyougodosomethingelsefor20minutes.Ifyouletitsitabit,theworkofkneadingthecabbagetoreleaseasmuchwateraspossiblewillbeeasierwhenyoureturn.
Workitforanotherfewminutes.Whenthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed(aspictured),youarereadytostartpackingyourjar.
Takeahandfulofcabbageinyourdominanthandandacleanquart(1L)jarintheother.Pressthecabbageintothebottomofthejarandpackitalongthebottomwiththetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,
pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomestoabout11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowthejarrim.
Ifthere’sstillcabbagethathasn’tbeenpackedintothejar,pressdownonthetopofthecabbageinthejarandtiltittopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.Thiswillgiveyoumorespaceinwhichtopacktheremainingcabbage.
Usethecabbageleafyoureservedtocreatea“cabbageshelf”(see“HowtoMakeaCabbageShelf,”page75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowthekrauttofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to6weeks,dependingonthewarmthofyourhome.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Ifthebrineisseverelydepleted,youmaywanttoaddmore,ataconcentrationofabout5percent(seesaltchartsonpage200),butthereshouldn’tbeaneedtodothis.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Ava’sKrautat1day(left)and2weeks(right).
⊲AVA’SHOTPINKKRAUTCookingwithkidsisagreatwaytogettheminterestedinmakinghealthierchoices.Myextendedfamilydoesnotalwayssharemyenthusiasmforfermentedvegetables,soIrecruitedmyniece,Ava,tohelpmemakeaversionthatwouldpleaseherpalateandcatertoherloveofthecolorpink.I’mnotsurehermomwassuperhappywhenIhandedhermychef’sknifetoremovethecore,butmyniecesurehadfunsqueezingthecabbage.
Ingredients
11/2pounds(675g)greencabbage
1/2pound(225g)redcabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
1teaspoon(2g)cuminseeds
2teaspoons(7g)mustardseeds
3juniperberries
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Addthecuminandmustardseedstothemixandcontinuetossingandmassagingthecabbage.
Placethejuniperberriesintoacleanquart(1L)jarandthenpackthemixture.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourcabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave11/2to2inches(4to5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Redcabbagejuiceisabeautiful,vibrantpurplethatwillstainjustaboutanything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagforthedurationoffermentation.Ontheoffchancethatyourjarbubblesover,stainswon’tbeaconcern.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
STUFFINGKRAUTWhenadearfriendwasdiagnosedwithceliacdiseaseshortlybeforeourannualholidayparty,Iimmediatelywenttoworktomakesureshecouldstillhavesomeofherfavoritegluten-yflavors,whileavoidingtheserioushealthcomplications.Thisstuffingsubstitutedoesthetrick.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
1smallonion(100g),diced
3stalksofcelery,trimmedanddiced
1tablespoon(4.5g)driedthyme
4teaspoons(2.3g)driedsageleaves
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addtheonion,celery,thyme,andsageandmixtodistributeevenly.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.Packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashionuntilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifthere’sstillcabbagethathasn’tbeenpackedintothejaryet,pressdownonthetopofthecabbageinthejarandtiltittopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.Thiswillgiveyoumorespaceinwhichtopacktheremainingcabbage.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2
inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
KRAUTYTHEVAMPIRESLAYERGarliclovers,thisone’sforyou!Thisrecipeisincrediblysimple,butthekeystepofroastingthegarliciswhatmakesthiskrautspecial.Fermentationmellowsthegarlicsubstantially,soeventhegarliclikersinyourfamilywillwanttogettheirhandsonthisroasty,complex,andimperiallygarlickysauerkraut.Don’tjudgeitbyitsearlydays;afterjust2weeksoffermentation,thiskrautwilllosethegarlicpungencyandgainawonderfuldepthofflavor.Ifyouintendtofermentfor4to6weeks,add1/2abulbmoreofgarlic.Onebulbworksgreatfora2-to4-weekfermentationperiod.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)greencabbage
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
1bulbofgarlic,peeledandroasteduntilsoftbutnotbrowned
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.
Gratethecabbageintoalargebowlandaddthesalt.Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabittomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Breaktheroastedgarlicclovesintopiecesanddropthemintothecabbagemixture.Tossandkneadthemixture,distributingthegarlicasevenlyaspossible.
Packthekrautintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to6weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttobringsomebrineuptothetop.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.
Yield:1quart(900g)
CHOOSEYOUROWNADVENTUREKRAUTWhenyoumakethiskraut,thepowerisyours!Hateonions?Leavethemout.Sickofspices?Don’tbother!Havenothinginyourfridgebutacelerystalk,halfabeet,andalemonslice?Usethemup.Followyourownpathtoanexcitingandtastyblendoffermentedvegetables.
Ingredients
11/2pounds(675g)cabbage
1/2pound(225g)anycombinationbeet,carrot,radish,turnip,zucchini,cucumber,brusselssprouts,greenbeans,bellpeppers,hotpeppers,ormorecabbage
2tablespoons(20g)peeledanddicedonion,garlic,shallot,orleek
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
3teaspoonstotalofanyofthefollowing,combinedoralone:cuminseeds,carawayseeds,allspice,currypowder,juniperberries,rubbedsage,freshthyme,redpepperflakes,powderedginger,lemonzest,paprika,orcayenne
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.
Cuttheothervegetablesinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices.Placethevegetablesintoalargebowl.Addtheonioncomponentandsalt.Tossvigorouslytoevenlydistributethesalt.Addtheherbsandspicesanddistributethemwhilemassagingandtossingthecabbagewithyourhands.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashionuntilitcomesto1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2
inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
SAUERKRAUTSLAWMyfriendSarahhasalwaysbeenavant-gardeinherfoodhabits.LongbeforeanyoneelseIknew,sheauditionedveganandmacrobioticdietsandcookedwithlocallygrownproductsovergrocerystorefare.Asacollegesophomore,shewasanexpertatexploringtheflavorsofotherculturesandmakingthemAmerican-teenagercompatible.AlthoughAsian-styleslawsarecommonnow,whenSarahfirstmadeoneforme,Iwasextraordinarilyexcitedbythenew-to-meflavorcombinations.Thiskraut-basedslawisanodetotherawcabbageversionsheusedtomakeinthekitchenofoursharedcollegehome.
Ingredients2cups(500g)KrautytheVampireSlayer(page81)
2carrots,trimmedandjulienned
1/2redoryellowbellpepper,chopped
1/4cup(40g)thinlyslicedredonion
2cups(150g)snappeas,trimmedandcutlengthwiseintothinstrips
2inches(5cm)ofpeeledfinelymincedginger
1packedtablespoon(6g)freshmint,slicedintoribbons
2packedtablespoons(2g)choppedfreshcilantro
1tablespoon(15ml)toastedsesameoil
2teaspoons(5.5g)sesameseeds(optional)
Placethekraut,carrots,bellpepper,onion,snappeas,andgingerinabowl.Tosstocombine.Addtheherbsandsesameoilandtosstocoat.Sprinklethesesameseedsontopandserve.Thisstoresverywellinthefridge,buttheflavorshavethebestbalancewhenservedfresh.
Yield:6servings
HEAT-LOVER’SKRAUTYoucanuseanyhotpeppersyouliketomakethisparticularsauerkraut.IlikeHungarianwax,serrano,andjalapeño.Thiscombinationofgreenandyellowpeppersmakesaprettykraut,butbetteryet,thefermentationprocesstamestheheatofthepeppersjustatouchsoyougetatonofthecharacterineverysmokin’bite.
Ingredients
13/4pounds(790g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
4or5hotpeppers(1/2pound,or225g)
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Removeanddiscardthecrownsfromthepeppers.Sliceitintothinrounds.Addthepepperstothecabbagebowlandtosswithyourhandstodistribute.Hotpepperscanactuallybehotonthehands,sowearsomedisposablelatexorbrand-newdishwashingglovestoavoidapainfulburningsensation.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2
inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
DILLYROOTKRAUTAsanAmericanofPolishandUkrainiandescent,Iamlegallyrequiredtocravedillandrootvegetables.Eatingthiskrautislikecominghome.Ifyou’rewillingtokillthegoodbugs,addthistoborschtforaspecialtreat.
Ingredients1smallunwaxedrutabaga(7ounces,or200g),coarselychopped
1mediumbeet(7ounces,or200g),coarselychopped
1/2headredcabbage(18ounces,or500g)
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
1/3cup(21g)choppedfreshdill
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placethevegetablesinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthedillandtosstodistributeevenly.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.
Redcabbagejuiceisabeautiful,vibrantpurplethatwillstainjustaboutanything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagduring
anything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagduringfermentation.Allowthecabbagetofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲MEDITERRANEANKRAUTMoveover,Greeksalad.Yourprobioticcousinisheretoknockyouoffyourlunchpedestal.Thiskrautishealthyandfillingandmakesafantasticmealallonitsown.Rollitupinacollardgreenforagluten-freewrapordigintoitwithoven-crispedpitachips.Thevegetablesarelesssaltedherebecauseseveraloftheingredients(theolives,capers,andcheese)alreadycontainsalt.
Ingredients
11/2pounds(675g)cabbage
1/2redbellpepper
2teaspoons(12g)koshersalt
1/4cup(43g)pittedkalamataorotherGreekolives
1cloveofgarlic,peeled
2tablespoons(17g)capers
Four1/8-inch(3mm)slicesofeggplant,thesamediameterasthejar
2ounces(55g)ofbrinedfetacheese(Donotusepre-crumbled.)
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbageandreserveone.Cutoutanddiscardthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl.
Removethestem,seeds,andpithfromthebellpepperandsliceitinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)squares.Placeinthebowlwiththecabbage.Addthesaltandtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Choptheolivesandcutthegarlicintothinslices.Addtheolives,garlic,andcaperstothecabbagebowlandtosswell.Crumblethefetaintothemixandtosslightlytodistribute.
Packroughly1cup(225g)ofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofaclean
Packroughly1cup(225g)ofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Lay1sliceofeggplantflatontopofit.Addanothercup(225g)ofcabbage,packingtightly,andanothereggplantslice.Repeatuntilthejarisfulltoabout1inch(2.5cm)fromthetop,endingwithaneggplantslice.
Pourabitoftheremainingbrinefromthebowloverthetopoftheeggplantslice,stillensuringatleast3/4-inch(2cm)ofheadspace.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Ifyoudon’twanttosliceintoaneggplantforjustfourslices,youcanabsolutelyomitit.Itdoesmakeforafun,visualaddition,however.
NEWWORLDRYEKRAUTAlocalfermentationexpertandbaker,AlexBois,makessomeastoundingbreadsforafantasticPhiladelphiarestaurantcalledHighStreetonMarket.Oneofmyfavoriteloavesisadeceptivelysimplesandwichrye.Thissauerkrautisanodetothatbread.WhenI’mfeelingextraadorationforthehumblecarawayseed,IwilltoastupasliceofBois’sNewWorldRyebread,butterit,andtopitwithaheapingpileofthiskrautforbreakfast.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
2tablespoons(13g)carawayseeds
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthecarawayseedsandtosstodistributeevenly.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,press
surethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
NUTSFORKRAUTSomepeoplemaythinkI’mnutsforputtingnutsinkraut,butit’sanextremelyhealthfulchoice.Nutsandseedscontainphytates,whichbindtonutrientsandpreventthemfrombeingabsorbedbyourbodies.Happily,fermentationeliminatesphyticacid,transformingnutsandseedsintohealthfoods,ratherthannutrientblockers.Thenutssoftenduringfermentation,whiletheseedstendtostaycrunchy.Bothtakeonalittlesourflavor,whichishalfthefun!Feelfreetosubstitutewhatevernutsandseedsyouhave.
Ingredients1headcabbage(about2pounds,or900g)
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
1/4cup(34g)unsalted,rawmacadamianuts,coarselychopped
1/4cup(31g)unsalted,rawpistachios,coarselychopped
1/4cup(35g)unsalted,rawcashews,coarselychopped
1/4cup(57g)shelled,raw,unsaltedpumpkinseeds
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Massageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Pourallthenutsandthepumpkinseedsintothebowlandtosstodistributeevenly.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jarusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2
inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks,checkingatleastonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
SAUERKRAUTSATAYIgenuinelycannotstopeatingcoldsesamenoodleswhenIhavetheminthehouse,soIdevelopedthisrecipeasabetter-for-mealternative.Theflavorsinthiskrautarejustaboutaperfectmatchforcoldsesamenoodlesat5to7daysoffermentation,butitstilltastesgreatafterafullmonthoffermentation.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
2teaspoons(12g)koshersalt
1teaspoon(1g)redpepperflakes
2tablespoons(30ml)soysauce
1/2cup(130g)creamypeanutbutter
1tablespoon(15ml)toastedsesameoil
1teaspoon(2g)corianderseeds
1redbellpepper,seededandchopped
Freshcilantro,forserving(optional)
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.
Gratethecabbageusingaboxgraterorthegratingbladeonyourfoodprocessor.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addtheredpepperflakes,soysauce,peanutbutter,oil,coriander,andbellpepperandtosstodistribute.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.Packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Thecabbageshelfisessentialinthisrecipe.Ifthepeanutbutterisexposedtoairduringfermentationitsoilscanoxidizeandturnrancid.Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.Ifyoufermentforlongerthanthat,besuretocheckthatthebrinelevelisabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou‘rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Servesprinkledwithcilantro.
Yield:1quart(900g)
GINGERBEETKRAUTSometimessimplicitymakesfortheultimatecrowd-pleaser.Inthiscase,justacoupleofingredientsmakeanunforgettablesauerkrautthatcomplementsjustaboutanythingyoucanputonaplate.Tryitinpastaortossedsaladsforaburstofflavorandcolor.
Ingredients
11/2pounds(675g)cabbage
2-inch(5cm)pieceofginger,unpeeled
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
1smallbeet(1/2pound,or225g)
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Gratethecabbageandgingerusingaboxgraterorthegratingbladeonyourfoodprocessor.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyuntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Trimandquarterthebeetsandcutthequartersinto1/4-inch(5mm)thickslices.Addthebeetstothecabbage.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilthecabbagecomesto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejar.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks,checkingonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,
makesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.
Onceyou‘rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
ExtraCabbageLiquid?Sowhatdoyoudowiththatsaltycabbagewaterthataccruesinyourbowlduringthemassageperiod?Mostpeoplejustdiscardit,butitissaltyandvegetal,soitmakesagreatadditiontosoups,stocks,andevenbread-bakingliquid.Anotheroptionistostoreitinalabeledjarinyourfridge.Ifyourbrinelevelevaporates,youcanjustpouritoveryourcabbageshelfandknowthatit’stheperfectsalinityforyourkraut.
⊲SAUERKRAUTPICKLEDEGGSIdon’tknowifthismakesmeaweirdo,butIgoCRAZYforpickledeggs.Thistechniquecanalsobedoneinbrinedferments,kimchiliquid,andanyothervegetablefermentyouletgolongenoughforaciditytogetappropriatelylow.Thetrulyawesomethingaboutfermentedpickledeggsisn’ttheirutterlysuperiorflavor—it’sthefungamesyoucanplaywithcolor!Usearedkrauttoendupwithpurpleeggs,radishpicklebrineforpastelpink,orfinishedbeetkvassforabeetredegg.
Ingredients3cups(675g)finishedsauerkraut,suchasGingerBeetKraut(page91)
4hard-boiledeggs,cooledandpeeled
Putaboutaninch(2.5cm)ofsauerkrautthathasfermentedforaminimumof2weeksintoaquart(1L)jar.Packextraaroundthesidestocreatealittlecraterinthejar.Placeaneggintothecraterandgentlypackmoresauerkrautontopandfitanothereggin.Coverthateggwithmoresauerkrautandpackthewholething,verygently,down.Repeatwiththeremaining2eggs,endingwithatleastathinlayerofsauerkrautontop.
Placethejarinthefridgeandallowtheeggstocultureandcolorfor5daysto2weeks.Youmayeatthekrautandeggsassoonastheeggstastepickledenoughforyou.
Yield:4eggsplus3cups(675g)sauerkraut
Youcanalsoputpeeled,hard-boiledeggsintofinishedpicklebrines.Theresultingpickledeggsarerainbow-coloredanddelicious.Itisokaytoputunpeeledeggs,oreggswithintentionallycrackedshells,intothemix.Thelacticacidwilleatawayattheshellsandprovideyouwithsomeveryinterestingpatternsandcolors.Ifyoudouseunpeeledeggs,don’teatthesauerkrautasthealkalineintheshellscanresultinahigherpH.
⊲MIREPOIXKRAUTThecombinationofcelery,onions,andcarrotsissuchaclassicinFrenchcookingthatitisoftenreferredtoasthe“HolyTrinity.”Inthiskraut,theclassicflavorsofmirepoixandbouquetgarniarecombinedtomakeajarthatwouldservejustaswellasacenterpieceforafamilymealasitwouldasasidedish.ServealongsideyourfavoritechickendishesforalittleFrenchflair.
Ingredients
13/4pounds(790g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)koshersalt
2carrots
1/2smallonion,peeled
11/2celerystalks
1teaspoon(1.5g)driedthymeleaves
1teaspoon(1g)driedsageleaves
4whole,unblemishedbayleaves
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Letthesaltandcabbagesitwhileyoudicethecarrots,onion,andcelery.Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthedicedvegetables,thyme,andsagetothecabbagemixtureandtosstodistribute.
Tightlypackasmallamountofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofaquart(1L)jar.Gentlyslidethestemendof1bayleafdownalongthesideofthejar,securingpartofitinthecabbagemixturesothatitispressedflatagainstthesideofthejar.Packmorecabbageintothejar,gentlysothatthebayleafispressed
againsttheglassbutnotpusheddownandbroken.Onanothersideofthejar,placeanotherbayleafandsecureagainsttheglassbypressingmorecabbagemixtureintothejar.Repeatuntilthereis1bayleafvisibleoneachsideofthejarandallofthecabbagemixtureispressedin,toabout11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave3/4to1inch(2to2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to6weeks,checkingatleastonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
SUPERSOURCITRUSKRAUTCitruszestisoneofthemostusefulandversatileseasoningsinanycook’sarsenal.Itcangosweetoritcangosavory.Inthissimplekraut,thecombinationofthreecitruszestsmakesforapunchy,party-worthykraut.Whenusingcitruspeelorzestinanyferment,leavethepithouttoavoidunpleasantbitterness.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
4teaspoons(22g)salt
Zestof1lemon
Zestof1lime
Zestof1/2ofanorange
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthezestsandtossforaminutetoevenlydistribute.
Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethe
for3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
PRESERVEDLEMONGINGERKRAUTOneofthebestpartsaboutthiskrautisthatwhenit’sdone,youhavekrautandpreservedlemonslices.Eattheminyourkrautorchopthemup,peelandall,andthrowtheminjustaboutanythingfromsaladstograindishesforanamazingflavorboost.Imakethiskrautforfermentationeventsandit’salwaysacrowd-pleaser.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage
2tablespoons(36g)koshersalt
1tablespoon(11g)mustardseed
4inches(10cm)offreshginger,unpeeled
4organic,thin-skinned,unwaxedlemons
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Mixinthemustardseedandsetaside.
Gratethegingerandaddtothecabbagebowl.Removetheendsfromyourlemonsandthenslicethemverythinly.
Massagethecabbagemixturewelluntilthereisapuddleinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagestaystogetherinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Placealargehandfulofcabbageintoaquart(1L)jarandpackitintightly.Layerslicesfrom1lemonevenlyoverthecabbageinthejar.Packmorecabbagemixtureontopofthelemonslicesandrepeattheselayersuntiltheingredientsareallinthejar,endingwithacabbagelayerpacked2inches(5cm)belowtherimofthejar.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1inch(2.5
cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to8weeks,checkingweeklytomakesurethatthebrineisstillcoveringthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲CARROTCAKEKRAUTAfewyearsago,Istartedreferringtosomeofmykrautsas“dessertkrauts.”Somefindthatfunnyuntil,thatis,theydevourthekrautinquestion.Theconceptofdessertkrautmaynotbefullyintuitive,butsomehow,itworks.Abandonsugarcravings,allyewhomakethiskraut.
Ingredients
13/4pounds(790g)cabbage
2carrots
1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt
1inch(2.5cm)pieceofginger,unpeeledandgrated
1teaspoon(2.5g)groundcinnamon
1/2teaspoon(1g)groundnutmeg
1/2cup(55g)pecans,coarselychopped
1/4cup(35g)unsweetenedraisins
Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecore.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestripsandgratethecarrots.Placebothinalargebowl,addsalt,andtossandsqueezeuntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.
Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowl.
Addtheginger,cinnamon,nutmeg,pecans,andraisinsandcontinuetomassage,mixingtheminasyougo,untilthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.
Pressthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jarusingthetopofyourfistandyourfingerstopackitalongthesidesandbottom.Stoppackingwhenthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageinthejarandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.
Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourtheliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5
cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrineisstillcoveringthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.
Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Kimchi
Kimchiisoneoftheworld’sbest-knownfermentedfoodsandisthemostculturallyimportantfoodofKorea,evenboastingitsownmuseuminSeoul.
Thereisnolimittowhereyoucanfindkimchipoppingupintraditionalandnontraditionalkitchensalike;inKorea—and,increasingly,abroad—kimchiiscommonlyeatenateverymeal.Havekimchiwitheggsjustonemorningforbreakfastandthere’sagoodchanceyou’llbehooked.
WhileweintheWesttendtothinkofkimchiasspicy,salty,delightfullypungentnapacabbage,kimchiisactuallymanythings.Therearewellover100“official”versionsofkimchi,andthatnumberdoesn’tincludehomemadeversionsthatcatertothetastepreferencesofspecificfamilies.Inthischapter,we’llexplorebothtraditionalanddecidedlynontraditionalstyles.Iknowfrommyreadersthatfamiliesoftenhavetheirpreferredversion,madespecialbythatsecretingredientnooneelseuses.Perhapsthroughexperimentation,you’llmakeyourfamilyakimchiclassictobehandeddownthroughthegenerations.
EverydayBaechuKimchi
Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples
Thai-chi
HalfHeadKimchi
AmericanSeoulKimchi
ShisoLeafKimchi
VeryVegetableVeganKimchi
PumpkinSpiceKimchi
MacandKimcheese
CucumberKimchi
RadishKimchi
NabakKimchi
Pesto-chi
Salsa-chi
GreenBeanKimchi
KimchiConsiderationsFollowingareafewelementsofkimchiforyoutoconsiderbeforegettingyourfermentsrolling.
ChoppingThereareformsofkimchithatarenamedspecificallyforthewaythevegetablesusedinitarechopped(NabakKimchi,page121).Thesizeofthepieceswillalsoimpactfermentationtime;largerpieceswilltakelongertoreachthesameacidityassmallerones.
SaltingThedecisiontosaltorbrineisapersonalone.Salting(applyingalargeamountdirectlytoyourcabbage)takeslesstimebutusesmuchmoresalt.Thecabbageisrinsedaftersaltingtoremoveexcesssalt,sowhatgoesintoyourfinalproductdoesn’ttastealotsaltierthanabrinedbatch.Inbrining(creatingabrineofwaterandsaltandthensubmergingyourcabbage
Inbrining(creatingabrineofwaterandsaltandthensubmergingyourcabbageanddaikoninit),you’lluseamuchsmallerquantityofsalt,butyou’llneedtoletitsitforaminimumof12hoursbeforeyoustartactuallycomposingyourkimchi.Thechoiceisyours.Thefinalresultisverysimilar.
TimingHowlongyoufermentyourkimchidependsonseveralfactors:thevegetablesused,thetimeofyear,temperature,and,mostimportantly,tastepreferences.Iadoretheflavorsoflightlyfermentedandevenunfermentedkimchi,andIoftenfermentitforonly3to7days.Butafterweeksormonthsoffermentation,itwillbesomethingtotallydifferent.Somefriendswon’tevenconsidereatingituntilitissoftandfizzy,whichcantakemonthsoffermentationdependingonthetemperatureandsugarandsaltlevels.Ifyou’remakingitforlongaging,useabitmoresaltthanisfoundintheserecipes.
KimchiGlovesManyoftheingredientsthatmakekimchitastesoamazingcanirritateyourskin(hotpepperandginger)ormakeyourhandssmellabittoodelicious(fishsauce,garlic,oronion).ElegantKoreanwomenhavespecialpinkrubberglovesfortheexpresspurposeofmixingkimchi.IfyouhaveaKoreanmarketinyourarea,youwillbeabletofindthese;otherwise,feelfreetousedisposablelatexglovesorrubberdishwashinggloves,reservedforfermenting,toprotectyourhandsandkeepthemfromsmellinglikegarlicandfishsauceforaweek!
CommonKimchiIngredients•Napacabbage.Napacabbageiswhite,green,andcapsule-shapedandhasawiderandsofterribthanthosefromthehard,roundheadsofgreencabbagemorecommonlyfoundinAmericangrocerystores.Lookforaheadthatisheavyforitssize.Lighterlargeheads,especiallyoutofseason,sometimeslookniceontheoutsidebuthavebrown,wiltingleavesontheinside.
•Daikon.DaikonisactuallytheJapanesenameforthelong,white,relativelymildradishthatisfoundinsomanykindsofkimchi.TheverysimilarKoreanversion,mu,isrounderandshorterandhasagreenertop,butdaikonisusuallyeasiertofindinAmericanmarkets.
•Koreanredpepperpowder(Gochugaru).Youcanfindgochugaru(Koreanredpepperpowder)ineitheracoarseorafinegrind.Thecoarseversionwasusedintheserecipes.Inspiteofkimchi’sreputationasaveryspicyfood,gochugaruisn’tallthathot.Ifyouwanttoampuptheheat,addredpepperflakesorevenfreshhotpeppersintheblendingstage.Beawarethataddingfreshpepperswillalterthecolorofyourredkimchi,oftenresultinginanorangishhueafterafewdaysoffermentation.
•Fishsauce.Thefishsauceyouincludeinyourkimchiwillprovideanenormousamountofumamiflavorand,frankly,anenormousamountofaromaduringfermentation.Chooseafishsaucethathasonlytwoingredients:anchoviesandsalt.Vegansandvegetariansshouldfeelfreetoomitfishsauceandsaltedshrimpfromallrecipes.
•Saltedshrimp(saewoojuht).Theselittleguys,foundatjustaboutanyAsiangrocerystore,comeinrefrigeratedjars,packedinliquid.Theyshouldbedrainedbeforeusing.
•Koreanchives.Koreanchiveslooklikelarge,flatbladesofgrassandhaveamildonionflavor.Theirlargercousins,Chinesechives,areavailableatanyAsianmarketandtheymakeagreatsubstitutefortheKoreanversion.Ifyoucan’tfindeither,scallionsareasuitablereplacement.
•Riceflour.Riceflourcanbefoundatmostmarkets.Lookforfinelygroundriceflour.Ifyouhavetroublefindingit,youcanomititentirelyorsubstitutepuréedfruit,all-purposeflour,oranotherstarchyflour(nutandcoconutfloursarenotrecommended).
•Ginger.Freshgingerisanessentialelementtotheflavorofkimchi.Itisususallyblendedin,sonolaboriouspeelingofitspaperyskinisnecessary.
•Sugar.Aswithanyiconicfood,tastepreferencesforkimchivarywildly.Ifyou’rethetypewholikesasoftandfizzykimchi,add1to2teaspoons(4to8g)ofsugarperquart(1L)ofkimchibeforefermentationandanother1teaspoon(4g)tothejarjustbeforerefrigeration.Idon’tusesugarinmyhomekimchi,sotheserecipesdonotcallforaddedsugar,butknowthatitisacommonlyusedingredient.
⊲EVERYDAYBAECHUKIMCHIBaechuistheKoreanwordforoneofthemostcommonkimchiingredients,napacabbage.BaechukimchiisthekimchithatwemostoftenseeinKoreanrestaurantsintheUnitedStates.It’sred.It’sspicy.It’sseductive.ThisisthekimchiImakemostfrequently,ofteninlargebatchestoavoidtheoutragethatoccurswhenwerunout.Thereisnoendtotheusesforthiskimchi.WeuseitinMacandKimcheese(page116)andasaningredientinjustabouteveryomeletorbatchofscrambledeggsImake.IfI’mbeingtotallyhonest,though,wemostcommonlyeatthiskimchistraightfromthejar.
IngredientsOne2-pound(900g)headnapacabbage
5tablespoons(100g)koshersalt
83/4cups(2L)filteredwater,divided11/2tablespoons(15g)riceflour
1/2pound(225g)daikon
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger
1/2smallonion,peeled
4clovesofgarlic,peeled
1tablespoon(4g)redpepperflakes
1/2cup(60g)coarsegrindgochugaru
1tablespoon(15ml)fishsauce
1tablespoon(8g)drained,saltedshrimp
5stemsofChinesechives,8to9stemsKoreanchives,or5scallions
Soakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Rinsethecabbageheadandpatdry.Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Ifthestripsarewiderthan2inches(5cm),halvethemagainlengthwise.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Thechunkswillseparateintoindividualpiecesasthey’rechopped.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.
Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthe
Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthecabbageinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.
Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthecabbageandpatdry.
Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining3/4cup(175ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutthedaikoninto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)sticksandtossthedaikonandcabbagetogetherinalargebowl.
Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceinthebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththeredpepperflakes,gochugaru,fishsauce,shrimp,andcooledricepaste.Blenduntilitbecomesasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.Addtothebowlwiththecabbageanddaikon.
Putonyourkimchigloves,ifdesired.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.
Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leavinganinch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidownandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
KIMCHI-BRAISEDCAULIFLOWERANDAPPLESTothelikelydismayofmyovercrowdedrefrigerator,Ihaveaveryhardtimedumpingtheliquidsleftoverfrommyvegetableferments.Kimchiliquid,inparticular,packsatonofflavor,andIfindithardtotoss.Doesthatmakemeahoarder?Nah.Thebrinesandjuicesofmyfermentedvegetablesneverhangaroundlong.Weeatthemup!Togetliquidfromkimchi,eitherstrainthekimchithroughmeshstrainersorwaituntilyou’veeatenthevegetablesandreservewhat’sleft.
Ingredients2tablespoons(30ml)oliveoil
1onion,sliced
1smallheadofcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets
2smallapples,coredandcoarselychopped
1cup(235ml)kimchiliquid
Heattheoilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanorDutchorFrenchovenandaddtheonion.Cookovermediumheatuntilsoftbutnotbrowned,about5minutes.
Addthecauliflowerandapplesandstirtocoatintheoil.Continuecooking,stirringoccasionally,untilbothhavesoftened,about10minutes.Addthekimchiliquidandlowertheheat.Coverandallowtosimmerfor15to20minutesoruntilallofthekimchiliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Servehot.
Yield:6cups(1.4kg)
ScalingUptheRicePasteManykimchirecipescallforricepaste.Ifyou’remakingalargerbatchthancalledforhereorifyouareplanningonmakingseveralrecipeswithinafewdays,makingalargerbatchofthepasteandstoringitinthefridgemakessense.Use2tablespoons(20g)ofriceflourpercup(235ml)ofwaterandknowthatlargerbatchestakelongertoboilandthicken.Largerbatcheswill
alsoexperiencelessevaporation,soplantouseanywherefrom1/4to1/2cup(60to120g)finishedricepasteinthesekimchirecipes.
Ifbriningyourvegetables,itmakessensetomakethericepastewhenyoustartthebrining.Juststoreitinthefridgeuntilyou’rereadytouseit.(Youcanstorethefinishedpasteinthefridgeforupto3daysbeforeitstartstobreakdown.)
THAI-CHIThisplayfulandspicykimchiincorporatessomeofmyfavoriteingredientsfromtheThaitake-outmenu.Kaffirlimeleavesmakeagreatadditiontosoupsandstocksandtheyflavorbeveragesbeautifully,buttheycanbeomittedorimperfectlyreplacedbyateaspoon(2g)offreshlimezest.
Ingredients
11/2pounds(680g)napacabbage
1mediumdaikon(8ounces,or225g)
4tablespoons(80g)koshersalt
9cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided
2tablespoons(20g)riceflour
Two4-inch(10cm)piecesoffreshlemongrasscore
4inches(10cm)ofginger
8clovesofgarlic,peeled
4or5Thai(bird’s-eye)chilesorhabaneros
1/2smallonion
2tablespoons(30ml)fishsauce
1tablespoon(4g)redpepperflakes
5scallions
6freshorfrozenkaffirlimeleaves
Soakthenapacabbagethoroughlytoremoveanydebrisanddirt.Halveitandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Thechunkswillseparateintopiecesasthey’rechopped.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoaverylargebowl.
Removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutitinto1/4-inch(5mm)wide,2-inch(5cm)longstripsandaddtothebowlwiththecabbage.
Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthecabbageanddaikoninthebowl.Useaplatetokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.
Aftersoaking,bringtheremaining1cup(235ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilinyoursmallestsaucepan,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.
Cutthelemongrassintothinroundsandthescallionsinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.
Putthecooledflourmixture,ginger,garlic,chiles,onion,fishsauce,andredpepperflakesintoafoodprocessorandblenduntilmostlysmooth.Tossthescallions,lemongrass,limeleaves,andchile/onionmixturewithvegetablesuntiltheyarewellcoatedandthescallions,lemongrassandlimeleavesaredistributedthroughoutthemixture.Packverytightlyintoaquart(1L)jarandcoverlooselywithalid.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom1to3weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,securethejarlidandstoreinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
HALFHEADKIMCHINotonlyisthiskimchifuntomake,butit’salsotheperfectcompanykimchi.Itservesasacenterpieceuntildinnertime(seephotoonpage100),whenIceremoniouslycarveitlikeaThanksgivingturkey.Eachguestgetsa2-to3-inch(5to7.5cm)thickcross-sectiontodevour.Ifwe’renotexpectingcompany,Ioftenpeelleavesoffonebyoneandusethemasincrediblyflavorful(andmessy)wrapsforwhateverI’mhavingforlunch.
Ingredients1/2largeheadofnapacabbage(2pounds,or900g)1/2cup(145g)koshersalt
9cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided
2tablespoons(20g)riceflour
1/2pound(225g)daikon
1/2bunchofKoreanchives
3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled
1/4smallonion
4clovesofgarlic,peeled
1tablespoon(15ml)fishsauce
3/4cup(90g)gochugaru
Soakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleavesandhalveitlengthwise.Eithermaketwobatchesorusetheotherhalfofthecabbageforanotherpurpose.
Addthesaltto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Placethecabbageinalargebowlandpourthesaltwateroverit.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepitsubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor24hours.
Afterbrining,thoroughlydrainandrinseallsidesofthecabbageincoolwater,beingcarefultosupporttheheadsothatitdoesnotbreakapart.
Inasmallsaucepan,bringtheflourandremaining1cup(235ml)watertoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumand
overmedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about4minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutthedaikonintosmallmatchstickswithamaximumwidthof1/4inch(5mm).Themandolinecomesinhandyforthistask.Placeinabowl.
Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)piecesandaddthemtothebowlwiththedaikon.
Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththefishsauce,gochugaru,andcooledflourmixture.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.
Holdthehalfcabbageinyournondominanthandorplaceitonacleanplate,cut-sideup.Workingfromthesmallest,centerleavesoutward,rubhandfulsofricepastemixtureinbetweeneachleaf.Begentleandcarefulnottopulltheleavesout.Eachleafshouldbefullycoatedinsideandoutwiththemix.Onceyou’verubbedthemixturebetweeneachleaf,rubmostoftheremainingpasteoveralltheoutersurfacesofthecabbage.
Carefullyplacethecabbageintoyourfermentingcontainer.Keepasmanyvegetablesaspossibleinside.Rubanyremainingpasteovertheexposedsurfaceofthecabbage.Placealidonthecontainerandwipethesidesandlidwithaclean,wetcloth.
Placethecontaineronaplateandfermentfor7to10daysatroomtemperature.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,moveittotherefrigeratoruntilanhourbeforeserving.Toserve,carefullyremovethecabbagefromthecontainer,againbeingcarefulnottolosetoomuchofthemixturepackedbetweentheleaves,andplacecut-sidedownonasmallservingplatter.
Yield:5to6servings
Youwillneedtofindatight-fittingcontainerinwhichtofermentthiskimchi.Ifindthataglassloafpanwithatight-fittinglidworkswellforaheadthissize.Tryvarioussizestoseewhatfitsbestforyou.
AMERICANSEOULKIMCHIThiskimchicreationwasmadewithingredientsthatareeasilyfoundinAmericangrocerystores.Theflavorandtexturearemilesawayfromthetraditionalbaechukimchi(page104),butitsureisanicespicyalternativeforthosewithoutaccesstospecialtyKoreaningredients.Thisisproofthatalthoughusingtheingredientsyouhaveaccesstomightnotgiveyou“therealthing,”itcanoftenresultinsomethingspecial.
Ingredients1head(2pounds,or900g)redcabbage
6tablespoons(110g)koshersalt
9cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided
21/2tablespoons(25g)all-purposeflour4or5cherrybellorFrenchbreakfastradishes(4ounces,or115g),greensandrootsremoved5scallions
1redbellpepper(7ounces,or200g)
2small,freshredhotpeppers
2clovesofgarlic,peeled
1smallonion,peeled
11/2teaspoons(2g)redpepperflakes11/2teaspoons(3g)cayennepepper
1teaspoon(2g)groundginger
1teaspoon(5ml)soysauce
Cutthecabbageinhalf,cutoutthecore,andthencuteachhalfintoquarters.Cuteachresultingwedgecrosswiseinto4squarishpieces.Cutlonger,rectangularpiecesinhalftomakecubes.
Placethecabbageinalargebowl.Dissolvethesaltin8cups(1.9L)ofthefilteredwaterandpourthemixtureoverthecabbage.Keepthecabbagesubmergedinthebrinebyplacingaweight,suchasasmallplate,ontopandcoverthewholethingwithakitchentowelorplasticwrap.Letsoakfor12to24hours.
Placetheflourandremaining1cup(235ml)waterinasmallsaucepanandturntheheattohigh.Stirconstantlyuntilboilingandthenreducetheheattomediumandcontinuestirringuntilthepastehasthickened,about3to4minutes.Transfer
andcontinuestirringuntilthepastehasthickened,about3to4minutes.Transfertoasmallbowlandstickitinthefridgetocoolcompletelybeforeusing.Themixturewillthickenfurtherwhilecooling,anditmaybecomeatadgummy.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,strainthecabbage.Slicetheradishesinto3or4slicesandthencuteachsliceinto3or4smallstrips.Trimthescallionsandcuttheminto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)pieces.Quarterthebellpepperandremovethestem,seeds,andsoftinnerpith.Removethecrownsandstemsfromthehotpeppers.
Placethecooledflourpaste,bellpepper,freshhotpeppers,garlic,onion,redpepperflakes,cayenne,groundginger,andsoysauceintothebowlofyourfoodprocessor.Blenduntilarelativelysmoothpasteforms,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlasnecessary.
Placethecabbage,radishes,andscallionsinalargebowl.Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.
Packtightlyintotwo1-quart(1L)jarsorone1/2-gallon(2L)jar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Screwthejarlidspartiallyonandplaceinaroomtemperaturespotawayfromdirectsunlighttofermentfor2to6weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,tightenthejarlidsandstoreinthefridge.
Yield:2quarts(1.8kg)
SHISOLEAFKIMCHITheKoreanconceptofssam(wrappingbitsoffoodinavarietyofleaves)mayjustbetheoriginallettucewrap,anditisdefinitelymyfavoritewaytoeatwithmyhands.Shisoleavesareonthesmallside,whichmakesthemperfectforpickingupjustabiteortwooffood.Itworksgreatwithricedishes,grilledmeats,andbanchan(smalldishes)ofallkinds.Ifyouwanttobereallymeta,youcaneveneatpiecesofPumpkinSpiceKimchi(page115)inShisoLeafKimchiwraps.Thebestpartofthisparticulardishisthatyou’realmostrequiredtolickyourfingerscleanonceyou’redoneeating.
Ingredients1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater
1tablespoon(10g)riceflour
20largepurpleshisoleaves,withatleast1/2inch(1.5cm)ofstem,rinsedandpatteddryPinchofsalt
1cloveofgarlic,peeled
1/2inch(1.5cm)ofginger
1/4teaspoontoastedsesameoil
1teaspoon(10ml)fishsauce
1teaspoon(3g)coarsegrindgochugaru
1teaspoon(3g)sesameseeds
Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about1minute.Transfertoabowlandmovetothefridgetocoolandthickenfurther.
Oncethericemixtureiscool,putitintoablenderorfoodprocessoralongwiththesalt,garlic,ginger,sesameoil,fishsauce,andgochugaruandblenduntilsmooth.Thisisasmallamountofpaste,soyoumayneedtoscrapedownthesidesafewtimestogetitallmixedin.Stirinthesesameseeds.
Usingasmallbastingbrushorglovedfingers,covertheleavesinricepaste.Onasmallplate,paintaverythinlayerovertheundersideofthelargestleaf,fromedgetoedge,andthenflipitoveranddothesameontheotherside.Placethe
edgetoedge,andthenflipitoveranddothesameontheotherside.Placethenextleafontopofthepaintedleaf,bottomsidedown,andspreadpasteoveritinthesamefashion,coveringeverythingbutthesteminathinlayer.Thericemixwillmaketheleavesholdtogether.Continuethisprocessuntiltheleavesareallstackedandcoveredinpaste.
Ifthereisasmallamountofricepastemixtureremaining,slatheritontothewholestack.Pickthestackupbythestemsandplaceflatinsideaplasticzipper-sealingbag.Pressthebagtoremoveairbubblesandseal.Letitsitfor48hoursinthefridge.
Thesedon’tkeeplong.Enjoywithin24hours.
Yield:20leaves,2or3servings
VERYVEGETABLEVEGANKIMCHIIhavemanyveganfriendswholovekimchi,soIoftenmakemyEverydayBaechuKimchi(page104)withoutfishsauceorsaltedshrimpsothateveryonecanenjoyit.Thiskimchiisaversionespeciallyforvegans,withnoanimalproductsandavegetabledoubledown.
Ingredients1/2head(1pound,or450g)napacabbage1/2smallleek
1smalldaikon(1/2pound,or225g)
1carrot
1/4cup(75g)koshersalt
83/4cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided4teaspoons(13g)riceflour
1/2bunchofKoreanchives
1/4redororangebellpepper
3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled
1/2mediumonion
2clovesofgarlic,peeled
1/2cup(60g)gochugaru
Two1/4-inch(5mm)widepiecesofkombuSoakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Setasidealargeleafforwhenit’stimetopackyourjar.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Ifthestripsarewiderthan2inches(5cm),halvethemagainlengthwise.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.
Trimtheleekandsliceitintothinrounds.Soakorrinsewelltoremoveanygrit.Removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikon.Removeanyrootsandcutinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)sticks.Trimandcoarselychopthecarrot.Addtheleek,daikon,andcarrottothebowlofcabbage.
Combinethesaltand8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Soakforatleast12andupto24hoursatroomtemperature.Aftersoaking,drainthevegetables,pattingthemdrywithacleankitchentoweltogetthemasdryas
vegetables,pattingthemdrywithacleankitchentoweltogetthemasdryaspossible.Rinseanddrythelargebriningbowlandthenreturnthevegetablestoit.
Inasmallsaucepan,combinetheremaining3/4cup(175ml)filteredwaterandriceflourandbringtoaboilovermedium-high,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)longpiecesandcoarselychopthebellpepper.Addtothebowlwiththedrainedvegetables.
Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththegochugaruandcooledflourmixture.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetables,addthekombu,anduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetablesinpaste.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.
Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leaving1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidownandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Ifyoudon’thavekombu,youcanomitit,orinstead,add1/4teaspoonvegetablebouillonpasteintothericemixtureintheblendingstage.
⊲PUMPKINSPICEKIMCHIWhenevertheannualpumpkinspicelattefreak-outbegins,Igetexcited.Icouldn’tcarelessaboutthelatte,butIknowitmeansthatI’llsoonbeabletogetmyhandsonlocallygrownpumpkinsthatIcanusetomakethiskimchi.Ifyoucan’tfindsmallpumpkins,youcansubstitutejustaboutanywintersquash.Kabochaandbutternutsquashbothmakefantasticversionsofthiskimchi.
Ingredients1smallpumpkin(3pounds,or1.4kg)
3tablespoons(54g)koshersalt
53/4cups(1.4L)filteredwater,divided4teaspoons(13g)riceflour
1/2smallleek(2ounces,or60g),greentopsremoved4mediumcollardleaves
3clovesofgarlic,peeled
2inches(5cm)ofginger
1/4cup(30g)coarsegrindgochugaru
1tablespoon(4g)redpepperflakes
1/2teaspoonfishsauce
1/2smallonion,coarselychopped
1smallcarrot,unpeeledandcoarselychopped
1largecabbageleaf
Cutthepumpkininhalfanduseaspoontoscoopoutanddiscardtheseeds.Cutoutthestemandcarefullypeelthepumpkin.Reserveafewlargerstripsofpumpkinpeel.Slicethepeeledpumpkinhalvesintoroughly1/2-inch(1.5cm)cubes.Apointycornerorroundedsidehereorthereisfine.
Placethepumpkincubesinabowl.Stirthesaltinto5cups(1.2L)ofthewateruntildissolvedandpouroverthepumpkin.Useasmallplateorotherfood-safe,nonmetallicweighttosubmergethepumpkinpiecesinthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.Afterbrining,drain,patdry,andplaceinalargebowl.
Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining3/4cup(175ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.
Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,trimtheleekandsliceitinto1/8-inch(3mm)orthinnerrings.Placetheringsinasmallbowlandcoverwithwater.Setaside.Removethestemsfromthecollardsandlaytheleavesontopofeachother.Rollthemupandcutinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)strips.Placethestripsinthebowlwiththepumpkin.
Oncethericepasteiscool,placeitinthebowlofyourfoodprocessoralongwiththegarlic,ginger,gochugaru,redpepperflakes,fishsauce,onion,andcarrot.Processuntilthemixtureisrelativelysmooth.
Removetheleekfromthesoakingliquid,beingcarefulnottodisturbanygritatthebottomofthebowl,andplaceitinthebowlwiththepumpkinandcollardpieces.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.
Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leavinganinch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidowntosubmergeitunderathinlayerofpasteandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.
Fermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto3weeks.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲MACANDKIMCHEESEMostofthefermentedvegetablesweeatinourhouseareconsumedraw,sometimesalone,sometimesassidesormixedintosalads.Thisistheoppositeofthat.It’spuredecadenceandit’sallaboutflavor.Servethisatafeastwithfriendswholiketoeatanddon’texpectleftovers.Foralargercrowd,doubletherecipeandbakeforanextra20to25minutes.
Ingredients8ounces(225)driedpennepasta
1cup(115g)shreddedGruyèrecheese
1cup(115g)shreddedCheddarcheese
2tablespoons(16g)cornstarch
Afewgrindsofblackpepper
13/4cups(410ml)wholemilk
1teaspoon(4g)mustard
2tablespoons(28g)butter
1/2cup(120ml)liquiddrainedfromEverydayBaechuorCrockKimchi(page104or170)1/4cup(75g)finelychoppedEverydayBaechu(page104)orRadishKimchi(page119),plusabitforgarnishPreheattheovento375°F(190°C,orgasmark5).
Inasaucepanovermedium-highheat,cookthepastafor5minutes,drain,andsetaside.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheshreddedcheesestogetherandsetaside.
Inalargesaucepan,whisktogetherthecornstarch,pepper,milk,andmustard.Addthebutterandplaceovermedium-highheat.Bringtoaboil,stirringconstantly,andaddthekimchiliquid.Continuetostiruntilthemixturereturnstoaboilandthenallowittoboilfor1minute.Removefromtheheatandadd11/2cups(175g)ofthecheeseandthechoppedkimchi.Stiruntilthecheeseismeltedandthenmixinthepasta.
Pourintoa2-quart(2L)bakingdishandsprinklewiththeremaining1/2cup(55g)cheese.Bake,uncovered,for25minutes.Placeunderthebroileronhighfor3minutesuntilbubblingandlightlybrowned.Allowtocoolfor10minutesbeforeeating.
Yield:4servings
•Foragluten-freeversion,substitutebrownricepasta.Cookthepastaforhalfthetimecalledforonthepackage.
•ThiscanbemadefromstarttofinishinaDutchorFrenchoven.
CUCUMBERKIMCHIThereisatraditionalstuffedcucumberkimchi(oisobagi)thatIlovetomake.Thelittlestuffedroundsareasbeautifulastheyaredelicious.Thatversionistraditionallynotfermented,andit’sservedassoonasit’smade.Thisfermentedadaptationislessbeautiful,buttheaddedflavorsoffermentationarewellworththevisualshift.
Ingredients1Englishcucumber,endstrimmed
21/2tablespoons(45g)koshersalt
1cup(235ml)filteredwater
2tablespoons(20g)riceflour
1smallcarrot(2ounces,or60g)
1/2bunchofKoreanchives
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled
1/4cup(30g)coarsegrindgochugaru
3clovesofgarlic,peeled
Slicethecucumberinto1-inch(2.5cm)tallrounds.Placethesaltinasmallbowlanddipeachcutsideofthecucumberpiecesintothesalt,coatingthementirelyinsalt.Rubanyresidualsaltoverthesidesofthecucumberpieces.Placethepiecesinacolanderinthesinkoroverabowlandletthemsitovernighttodrain.Whenthey’vedrainedforatleast8hours,rinsethemthoroughlyincoolwaterandplaceinabowl.
Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,2to3minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.
Whilethericepasteiscooling,juliennethecarrotandcutthechivesinto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)pieces.Addtothebowlwiththecucumber.
Placetheginger,gochugaru,garlic,andcooledricepasteintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.
processorandblenduntilsmooth.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Whenthepasteisspreadevenly,fitthepiecesintoaquart(1L)jar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Thereisnoneedtoapplyweighttothisferment,sincethefermentationperiodissoshort.
Yield:3cups(675g)
RADISHKIMCHIThemoretraditionalversionofthiskimchiwouldbemadeonlywithmuradish,butIenjoytheaddedzingthatcomesfromusingavarietyofspicierradishestoo.Feelfreetogoeitherroute,dependingonwhatyouhaveaccesstoandyourpreferenceformilderorzingier’chi.
Ingredients1daikonor1pound(450g)mixedradishes
2tablespoons(38g)koshersalt
1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater
1tablespoon(10g)riceflour
4clovesofgarlic
2inches(5cm)ofginger
1smallonion,coarselychopped
1/2teaspoonfishsauce
1/4cup(30g)gochugaru
1/2bunchofKoreanchives,trimmed
Cuttheradishesinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes.Placeinabowlandsprinklethecutsurfaceswithsalt.Letthemsitfor30minutesandthentossagain,redistributinganyresidualsaltatthebottomofthebowl.
Letthemsitforanother30minutesuntilvisiblywet.
Whiletheradishesaresalting,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboilinyoursmallestsaucepan,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.
Oncethericepasteiscoolandtheradishesaredamp,placetheradishesinacolanderandrinsethoroughlyundercoolwater.Tastearadish.Itshouldbequitesaltybutnotinedible.Allowtodrain.
Placethecooledricepaste,garlic,ginger,onion,fishsauce,andgochugaruintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilauniformpasteforms.
Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.Pattheradishesdryandplacealltheingredientsinabowl.Putonyourkimchiglovesandtosstocombine.Oncethevegetablesarethoroughlycoatedinricepaste,packthemverytightlyintoaquart(1L)jar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Looselycoverthejarwiththelidandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom7daysto2weeks.
Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,securethelidandplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
⊲NABAKKIMCHIThewordnabakreferstothesquareshapeofthevegetablepiecesinthiskimchi,butformethedefiningcharacteristicofthisparticularkimchiishowit’seaten—asadelightfullylight,chilledsoup.Enjoythiskimchiasanappetizerwhentheseasonschangefromcoldtowarm.
Ingredients1/2smalldaikon(1/4pound,or115g)1pound(450g)napacabbage
1/4smallonion(1ounce,or25g),chopped1smallAsianpear(7ounces,or200g),coredandcutinto8pieces
1/2inch(1.5cm)ofginger,minced
1carrot
2scallions,trimmedandcutinto2-inch(5cm)pieces
1tablespoon(7.5g)coarsegochugaruflakes
2clovesofgarlic,thinlysliced
5teaspoons(28g)koshersalt
4cups(940ml)filteredwater
Removethedaikongreensandcrown.Cutthedaikoninto1-inch(2.5cm)thickrounds.Togetthesquarish,nabakshape,layeachroundflatandcutintoquarters.Sliceeachdaikonquarterinto1/4-inch(5mm)thicksquares.Repeatwitheachdaikonslice,thenwiththecarrot.
Mixthedaikon,cabbage,onion,pear,ginger,carrot,scallions,gochugaru,andgarlictogetherinalargebowlandthendivideevenlybetween2quart(1L)jars.
Mixthesaltintothewateruntildisolvedandthenpourthebrineintoeachjaruntilthevegetablesarejustcovered.Dividethegochugaruflakesbetweenthejarsandstirtodistribute.
Althoughthisisabrinedferment,thefermentationtimeissoshortthatsubmersionisnotnecessary.Fermentfor4to5daysandchillbeforeserving.
Yield:2quarts(2L)
Traditionalnabakisbrothier,butIprefermysoupstobeloadedwithveg.Ifyou’dliketogothemoretraditionalroute,halvetheamountofcabbage,daikon,scallions,andpear.Thosewhodon’tlikeheatcanomitthegochugaru(redpepperflakes).
⊲PESTO-CHIIneverknowexactlyhowmanyseedswilltakeinmygarden,soIusuallyplantalotmorethanIneed,justtobesafe.Afewyearsago,everyseedtook,andIendedupwithseveraldozenbasilplants.Unexpectedbumpercropsaren’talwaysdesirablewhenyouhavealimitedcontainergardenonyourroofandtwopeopleinyourfamily.Astheseasondrewtoaclose,wehadreallyeatenenoughpesto,andtheneighborswenta-runnin’whentheysawmeapproachingwithafragrantbouquet.Iknewitwastimetofindanotheruseformyovergrowth.Thuswasbornpesto-chi,foreverendingmysearchforwaystouseanoverabundanceofbasil.
Ingredients
13/4pound(790g)headnapacabbage
1daikon(9ounces,or250g),trimmed,greensremoved
21/2tablespoons(45g)koshersalt
5cups(1.2L)filteredwater
13/4cups(42g)tightlypackedbasilleaves3clovesofgarlic
11/2teaspoons(7.5g)brownsugar
2tablespoons(7g)redpepperflakes
Zestof2lemons
Soakorthoroughlyrinsethecabbageinroomtemperaturewatertoremoveanydirtanddebris.Removeandreserveanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleaves.
Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8long,11/2inch(4cm)widestripsofnapacabbage.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreateroughly11/2-inch(4cm)squares.Placethecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.
Slicethedaikoninto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)widestripsandcutthemdownto2to3inches(5to7.5cm)inlength,ifnecessary.Addtothebowlwiththecabbage.
Addthesalttothewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthebrineintothebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmerged
plateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandallowthevegetablestosoakatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Aftersoaking,drainthevegetablesandpatdry.
Putthebasil,garlic,brownsugar,andredpepperflakesinafoodprocessorandblendtoapasteconsistency.Stirinthelemonzest.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scoopthebasilmixtureintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.Packthejartightlywithkimchi.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom5daysto2weeks.At5days,thebasilflavorwillbeveryprominent.Thelongeryouferment,themoreitmellowsintothesourflavorsoffermentation.
Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,removetheweight,securethejarlid,andstoreinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
SALSA-CHIMyhusband,anativeCalifornian,madeithismissiontointroducemetothebestofwhatCentralCoasttaqueriashadtooffer.Histaqueriacampaigntaughtmethatnotacoiscompletewithoutasideofradishandcarrotandthefullcomplementoftastysalsas.Thoseflavorsinspiredthiskimchi.
Ingredients
1headnapacabbage(13/4pounds,or800g)8smallcherrybellradishes,trimmedandquartered
1carrot(2ounces,or50g),chopped
1/4cup(75g)koshersalt
8cups(1.9L)filteredwater
1largetomato(7ounces,or200g)
2tablespoons(32g)tomatopaste
2largejalapeñopeppers,stemsandcrownsremoved
1/2smallonion(2ounces,or50g)
3clovesofgarlic
4scallions,chopped
1/2bunchofcilantro,chopped(stemsincluded)Zestof1lime
Soakorthoroughlyrinseyourcabbageincoolwatertoremovedirtanddebris.Removethewiltedouterleaves.Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhaveeight,11/2-inch(4cm)widestrips.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreateroughly11/2-inch(4cm)squares.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.Addtheradishandcarrotpieces.
Pourthesaltintothewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthebrineoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandallowthevegetablestosoakatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthevegetablesandpatdrywithacleankitchentowel.Placeinalargebowl.
Placethetomato,tomatopaste,jalapeños,onion,andgarlicintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth,scrapingdownasnecessary.Oncethemixtureissmooth,pouritoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Addthescallions,cilantro,andlimezesttothebowl.
cilantro,andlimezesttothebowl.
Putonyourkimchiglovesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandcoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.Packthemixtureverytightlyintothejar,coverthejar,andfermentatroomtemperaturefor3to5days.
Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,securethejarlidandstoreinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
GREENBEANKIMCHIThisisoneofmyveryfavoritekimchicreations.Bynomeansatraditionalkimchi,thisrecipetakesitsinspirationfromoneofmyfavoriteChineserestaurantdishes—spicygreenbeans.TheadditionofChinesefive-spicepowderisthekeytoacrazyflavorfuldish.
Ingredients1/2pound(225g)greenbeans,endstrimmed5teaspoons(30g)koshersalt
41/2cups(1.1L)filteredwater,divided1tablespoon(10g)riceflour
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled
1/4cup(30g)gochugaru
2clovesofgarlic
1/2small(2ounces,or50g)onion
1/2teaspoonfishsauce
1/2teaspoonChinese5-spicepowder
5stemsofChinesechives
Cutthegreenbeansinto1-inch(2.5cm)piecesandplaceinabowl.
Mixthesaltinto4cups(940ml)ofthewaterandstiruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothebowlwiththegreenbeans.Useasmallplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicobjecttokeepthebeanssubmerged.Allowthemtositatroomtemperatureovernightandthendrain.
Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining1/2cup(120ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature.
Oncethericepastehascooled,putitinafoodprocessoralongwiththeginger,gochugaru,garlic,onion,fishsauce,and5-spicepowder.Blenduntilsmooth.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixwellandtocoatthevegetables.Removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanpint
theglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanpint(500ml)jar.Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejarandthenlooselyattachthelid.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,tightenthelidandstoreintherefrigerator.
Yield:1pint(450kg)
Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments
Theconceptofeatingpickledvegetablesasanaccompanienttovirtuallyeverymealhasalongtraditioninmanycultures,fromtheKoreanbanchantotheIndianthali.IntheWest,we’remorepronetocoveratableinsaucesandcondimentsasmealaccompaniments.Therecipesinthischapterseektoserveasakindofcombinationofthetwo—whynotgetourprobioticswhileseasoningourfoodsthewaywealwaysdo?
Iknowalotoffamilieshavemixedvalues—halfthefamilylovesfermentswhiletheotherhalfsaysnothanks.Fermentingcommoncondiments,however,canbeagreatwaytoleadmorereluctantfermentconsumersdownthepathtofermentationbliss.
SummerCornSalsa
SimpleSalsa,TwoWays
TomatilloSalsa
HotSauce
HotPepperFlakes
FermentedTomatoSauce
EggplantPâté
ThousandIslandDressing
WinterSquashHummus
⊲SUMMERCORNSALSAAsaMichigankid,Igrewupwiththesureknowledgethatswimmingpools+corn=summer.Whileyou’llneverconvincemethatthecornfromanyotherstateisassweet,thissalsawillmakeevenlessercornshine.It’sasalsathatworksgreatstraightoutofthejarorwiththeadditionofsomefreshchoppedtomatoandcilantroaddedjustbeforeserving.Don’tworryaboutcookingthecorn;fermentationwillleaveyourcornbarelysweetandreadytodevour.
Ingredients4mediumearsofcorn,preferablyorganic,shucked1/2cup(80g)dicedsweetonion1/2cloveofgarlic,thinlysliced1jalapeñopepper,diced
11/2teaspoons(12g)coarsesalt1cupplus2tablespoons(265g)filteredwater
Placethewideendofoneearofcornonaplateorinashallowbowl.Holdingtheotherend,useasharpknifetoshavedownwardtoremovethekernelsfromthecob.Repeatwiththeremainingears.
Placethecornkernels,onion,garlic,andjalapeñointoapint(500ml)jar.Mixthesaltintothewaterandpourthebrineoverthevegetables.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to5days.Thebrineshouldbecloudyandthecornshouldstilltastealittlesweet.Itshouldalsobequitetangy.
Chill.Drainthefermentingliquidfromthesalsabeforeserving.
Yield:1pint(450g)
SIMPLESALSA,TWOWAYSSincetomatoesarehighinsugar,theycanbreakdownmorequickly,resultinginanunpleasantlymealyfeelratherthanafresh,ripebite.Forthatreason,apuréedsalsaisbetterifyouarefermentingalloftheingredients.Theotheroptionistoskipthetomatoduringfermentationandaddthefreshtomatoesandcilantrobeforeserving(picostyle).Botharetastyandquitedifferentfromoneanother.Servewithchipsortacos.
Ingredients1heapingcup(200g)coredchoppedtomato(1largeheirloomor3mediumslicers)1/2cup(75g)choppedonion1smallcloveofgarlic1/2jalapeñopepper,seeded1teaspoon(6g)salt(or1/4teaspoonforpico,plusmoretotasteinthefinished
product)1/2cup(8g)packedfreshcilantro,stemsandleavesSqueezeoflime(optional),forserving
PuréedStyle:Placethetomatoes,onion,garlic,andjalapeñoinapintjar(500ml).Addthesalt,putthelidontightly,andgiveitashaketodistributethesalt.Youshouldseethetomatoesgivingupsomeliquidwithinahalfhour.Loosenthelidabitandsettheoveratoweloraplateinaspotoutofdirectsunlight.
Vegetablesolidswillrisetothetop,soonceortwiceaday,givethejaralittleshaketokeepthetomatoescoveredinliquid.
Tasteat3days;ifyouliketheflavor,it’sdone!Ifyouthinkitcoulduseabitmoreacidity,giveitanotherday.
Onceit’sfermentedtoyourliking,strainofftheliquid(youcanreservethistouseasastarterforacondimentoraddittosouporanythingelsewhereyou’dlikeahitofacid,flavor,andsalt).Placethecontentsofthejarinafoodprocessorwithallbut1sprigofthecilantro.Pulsetogetaslightlychunkytexture.
Pourthesalsaintoabowlandsqueezethelimeoverit.Choptheremainingcilantroanduseasgarnish.
PicoStyle:Mincethegarlic.Placetheonion,garlic,andjalapeñoinapint(500ml)jar.Mixabrineof1/2cup(120ml)filteredwaterto1/4teaspoonsalt.Pourthebrineovertheveggiesandsecurethelid.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5days.
Strainofftheliquidandplacefermentedvegetablesinabowl.Tosswithchoppedtomatoes.Chopthecilantroandtosswiththevegetables.Addsalttotaste.Addasqueezeoflimeifdesired.
Yield:1pint(450g)
TOMATILLOSALSAIliveneartheItalianMarketinPhiladelphia,dangerouslyclosetoalotoficonicfoodshops.WhenIleavemydoor,Iwalkbycountlessvegetablestands,threecheeseshops,afantastickitchensupplystore,and,perhapsmosttemptingofall,TortilleriaSanRoman.Thispocketshophashotfreshtortillascomingoffthepressalldaylongandavarietyofhouse-madesalsas.Myfavoriteistheir(unfermented)verde.Theamountofsalsawe’veboughtfromthereconvincedmetostartgrowingmyowntomatillossoIcouldmakemyownfermentedversion.Thisistheresult.
Ingredients1bunchofcilantro,divided40minior10regulartomatillos,huskremoved,rinsedtoremovestickiness1heapingteaspoon(4g)minced
whiteonion
1smallcloveofgarlic,minced
11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt1cup(235ml)filteredwater
Placehalfofthebunchofcilantroinapint(500ml)jar.Topwiththetomatillos,onion,andgarlic.Stirthesaltintothewaterandpourthebrineintothejar.Closethejarwithitslid,butleavetheringloosesothatCO2canescapeduringfermentation.
Allowtofermentfor7to10daysandthenstrainoffandreservetheliquid.Pulsetheremaininghalfbunchofcilantroandthecontentsofthejarinafoodprocessoruntilchunky.Ifyouwantawettersalsa,addthereservedfermentingliquidatablespoon(15ml)atatimeuntilyouhavetheconsistencyyouwant.Serveimmediatelyorstoreintherefrigerator.
Yield:1pint(450g)
⊲HOTSAUCEImayhavecomelatetothehotsauce–makinggame,butonceIstarted,Icouldn’tstop.Igrowasmanyvarietiesofhotpeppersascanfitonmyroof,Ibuythembythecasefromlocalfarmers,andyeteveryyear,myhusbandandIhavecleanedoutourvariedstockofhotpeppersaucesbyFebruary.Thisisaveryflexiblerecipe.SubstituteyourfavoritepeppersfortheFresnosandcayennesthatmakemyveryfavoritesauce.
IngredientsCloves,staranise,mustardseeds,onionpowder,etc.,totaste(optional)4packedcups(400g)hotpeppers,stemsandcapsremoved5clovesofgarlic
1tablespoon(18g)salt
2cups(470ml)filteredwater
Ifusingseasonings,placeinapintjar(500ml).
Slicethepepperinhalflengthwise.
Packthepeppersandgarlicintothejar,astightlyaspossible.It’sokayifthepeppersbreakabit.
Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothejaranduseaweightensurethatthepeppersstaysubmerged(seepages23to28).Youwanttouseaslittlebrineaspossiblehere,sobesurethatyourpeppersarewellpackedin.Coveryourjar.
Allowtofermentforatleast2weeks.Pepperscanfermentforquiteawhile.Overtime,theheatwilllessensomewhat,soforfermentsthatgolongerthan3months,besuretouseabitmoreheatthanyouwantinyourfinalproduct.Peppersarepronetoverycloudybrineandflakesinthebrineandonthesurfaceofthepeppers.Thatisanormalpartofthefermentationprocessandnothingtobeconcernedabout.Ifthebuildupisheavy,justquicklyrinsethepeppersincoolwaterbeforepuréeing.
Oncefermentationiscomplete,drainandreservethebrineandplacethepeppersandgarlicinafoodprocessor,strainingoutanywholespicespriortopuréeing.
andgarlicinafoodprocessor,strainingoutanywholespicespriortopuréeing.Processfor2to3minutesuntilasmoothpasteforms.
Addthebrineatablespoon(15ml)atatimeuntilitreachesthedesiredconsistency.Foraliquid,Tabasco-stylesauce,additall.Forasrirachaconsistency,addbetween1/4and1/2cup(60and120ml)ofbrine.
Runthepuréethroughafoodmillorpressthroughafine-meshstrainerusingaspatula.ReservethepastetomakeHotPepperFlakes(page134),ifdesired.
Pourintoabottleandstoreinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(500ml)
⊲HOTPEPPERFLAKESFermentedredpepperflakesareaby-productofthehotsauce–makingprocess.Ilovethatthesepreventfoodwasteinawaythatofferssomuchflavorforsolong.Youcandefinitelyaddyourownhouseblendofsuperredpepperflakestothelistoftieronesecretingredients!Ifyouhaveadehydrator,youcankeeptheseprobioticbykeepingthetemperaturesettoabout90°F(32°C).Otherwise,justbakethematthelowestsettinginyouroven.
IngredientsRemainingpastefrommaking2recipesofHotSauce(page33),madeasdryaspossiblethroughmillingPreheattheovento200°F(93°C).
Onalargebakingsheetlinedwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper,spreadthepaste/seedmixtureintoathinlayer.Useaspatulatomakethemixasuniformaspossible.Thethinnerthelayer,thefasteritwilldryintheoven.
Placethebakingsheetintheovenandbakeforabout2hoursuntilthepasteistotallydriedandcrisp.Youshouldbeabletobreakapieceoff.Setasideuntilcoolandthenbreakthechunksapartwithcleanfingers.Placethemintoashakeror1/2pint(250ml)jar.Storeinthepantryorfridge.
Yield:1cup(225g)
FERMENTEDTOMATOSAUCETomatoesareusuallyfermentedgreen(unripe)orwithastarterbecausethetextureoffermentedripetomatoesisverymushy.Inthiscase,however,youcangorightfortheripestsummertomatoes.Sinceyou’llbepuréeingthefinalproduct,softnessdoesn’tmatteronebit.Fermentingripetomatoesresultsinanincrediblypureandintensetomatoflavor.Thisconcentratedflavorworksbestwhenlightlytossedwithpastaorsautéedvegetables.
Ingredients2pounds(900g)ripetomatoes,preferablyafleshyheirloomvariety1tablespoon(20g)coarseseasalt
1cloveofgarlic,coarselychopped
1/2mediumonion(2ounces,or60g),cutintochunks1/4cup(10g)packedfreshbasilleaves1teaspoon(2g)driedoregano
Pinchofdriedrosemary(optional)
Chopthetomatoesintolargechunks,removingthecoreandanywetseedclustersthatareeasytopushout.Youshouldendupwithabout4cups(720g)choppedtomatoes.Placeinabowlandtosswiththesalt.
Placethegarlicandonionintoaquart(1L)jarandthenaddthesaltedtomatoes.Thejarshouldbefulluptothethreads.Placethelidonthejar,butleaveitalittleloosesothatCO2canescapeduringfermentation.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4days,awayfromdirectsunlight.Thetomatoesandliquidwillseparate.Gentlystir1to2timesdailytore-submergethevegetablesandpreventsurfaceyeastsfromforming.
At4days,useafine-meshstrainertodraintheliquidfromthevegetables.Ifyouwanttoreservetheliquidtouseasbraisingliquidorsoupstock,strainoverabowlandstoreinfridge.
Placethefermentedvegetables,basil,oregano,androsemaryinablenderandprocessuntilverysmooth.Useimmediatelyorreturntothejarandstoreinthefridge.Thissaucewillkeepforatleast2weeks,butitwillbecomeincreasinglyacidicastimepasses.
acidicastimepasses.
Yield:3cups(735g)
EGGPLANTPÂTÉThisfermentedspreadmakesafantasticraw,vegan(iffishsauceisomitted),andgluten-freeamuse-bouchewhenservedoncucumberslices.Ifyouwantalittlelessfiberinyourtexture,carefullyslicethepeelsofftheeggplantafterfermentationbutbeforepuréeing.
3/4pound(340g)Italianeggplant,unpeeled2clovesofgarlic
21/4teaspoons(17g)koshersalt11/2cups(355ml)filteredwater1/4cup(60ml)oliveoil2tablespoons(30g)tahini
1teaspoon(5ml)freshlemonjuice
2teaspoons(10ml)fishsauce(optional)
Removetheendsoftheeggplantandcutinhalflengthwise.Cuteachhalfinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slices.
Placethegarlicclovesintoaquart(1L)jarandpacktheeggplantslicesontop.
Dissolvethesaltintothewaterandpourthemixtureoverthevegetablesinthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergetheeggplantandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentfor1week.
Afterfermentation,drain,reservingtheliquidforanotheruse,ifdesired.Removethepeelsifasmootherpâtéisdesired.
Placetheeggplant,garlic,oliveoil,tahini,lemonjuice,andfishsauce,ifusing,intoablenderandblendonhighuntilsmooth.Scoopintoaservingbowlandserveimmediatelyorstoreinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto10days.Notethatthetopmostlayermaybecomediscoloredovertimeinthefridge;ifthathappens,justscrapeoffthetopandenjoywhat’sunderneath.
Yield:1heapingcup(240g)
THOUSANDISLANDDRESSINGReubensmaywellbethefermentiestsandwich.Bread?Fermented.Cheese?Fermented.Sauerkraut?Fermented.Cornedbeef?Fermented.Theonlythingonthesandwichthatisn’talwaysfermentedistheThousandIslanddressing.Here’sthesolution!MakeyourThousandIslanddressingwithhomefermentedpicklesandyoucompletethefermentedpicture.ForanextraspecialThousandIslanddressing,subCuminBasilBeets(page46)forcucumberpickles.
1/4cup(60g)mayonnaise2tablespoons(30g)ketchup
1tablespoon(10g)veryfinelymincedCocktailOnionRings(page66)2tablespoons(20g)veryfinelymincedClassicDillPickleSpears(page68)Mixalltheingredientstogetheruntilauniform,pink/peachcolorisachieved.Spoonorpourontothesandwichofyourchoice.Anyremainingdressingwillkeepinthefridgeforafewdays,butitmayneedtobestirredbeforeusing.
Yield:1/2cup(120g)
⊲WINTERSQUASHHUMMUSThefirsttimeItastedthepickledbutternutsquashatafavoritePhillyrestaurant,CheUNoodleBar,Iknewthecomplexityofflavormeantitwasfermented.Thechefthere,BenPuchowitz,isoftenaccessiblebehindthebarseatingatCHeU,andheconfirmedthatitdefinitelydoesn’tmushduringfermentationandthathemakesitlikeasimple,brinedlacto-pickle.Istartedmakingmyownthatnight,andI’vefoundittobeanextremelyversatilepicklethatgoesveryquickly.Thisdipmakesitgoevenfaster.Serveitwithcrispy,nuttycrackersorrawandroastedcarrotsfordipping.
Ingredients1smallwintersquash(1pound,or450g),suchasbutternut,acorn,delicata,orkabocha11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt1cup(235ml)filteredwater1/4cup(60ml)oliveoil1/4cup(60ml)pumpkinseedoil+11/2teaspoons(7.5ml)fordrizzle(Youcan
substitutewalnutorhazelnutoil.)2tablespoons(30ml)brinefromfermentationofsquash
2tablespoons(30g)tahini
1/2cup(114g)toastedpumpkinseedsPeelthesquash,reservingthelargerstripsofpeel.Removeanddiscardtheseedsandchopthesquashinto1-inch(2.5cm)chunks.Packthepiecesintoaquart(1L)jarandslidebitsofthereservedpeelinaroundthesides.Fitasmuchpeelasyoucanintothejar,butskipthesmallpiecesthatwillhavetobeweededoutafterfermentation.
Stirthesaltintothewaterandpourintothejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthesquashdownandcoveryourjar.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto2weeks.Afterfermentation,strain,butreserve2tablespoons(30ml)ofbrine.Removeanddiscardthepeel.
Placethesquash,oils,andbrineintoafoodprocessorandmixonhighfor3to4minutes,stoppingthemachinetoscrapedownthesidesasnecessary.Themixtureshouldbequitesmoothwhenit’sdone,soprocessforlongerifnecessary.Addthetahiniandprocessforanotherminuteuntilwellcombined.
Placeinabowlanduseaspatulatosmooththesurface.Drizzlewiththeremainingpumpkinseedoilandtopwiththepumpkinseeds.
Yield:11/2cups(360g)
Kvass
Sodaistoosugary,andbeerandwinearetooboozy.Coffeeandteamaykeepyoubuzzingallnightlong,andwater,whilegreatforhydratingourbodies,doesn’talwayswowourtastebuds.Sowhatarethirstyfolkstodo?Drinkkvass!Thesefermenteddrinkspusheveryhealthbutton,fromvitaminandmineralcontenttoprobioticpizazz,allwhiletastinggreat.Everyvegetablehasitsownflavorsignature.Somearefreshandacidifyquickly,whileothersareearthyandfunky.Manyofthesedrinkscanbemadefizzythroughbottling,ifyou’rethebubble-lovingtype.
Kvassistraditionallymadefrombeets,butanyvegetablethatfermentswellwillgiveyouatop-notchbeverage.Feelfreetoexplorebeyondtheoptionsyoufindhere.Whynotexperimentwithaholidayspiceturnipkvassorasummerbarbecuecornkvass?
RedBeetKvass
SunnyHerbKvass
WinterHerbKvass
WoodsyGinandTonic
Bull’s-eyeBeetKvass
LettuceKvass
CabbageKvass
CeleryKvass
CucumberFennelKvass
MoroccanCarrotKvass
TipsandGuidelinesManyofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplyhere,butbelowareafewbeverage-specifictipsandguidelines.
WatchtheClockEachrecipehasarangeoffermentationtimes.Theearliertimeswillhavealessinfusedflavorandloweracidity.Ifyou’rehappywiththeacidityattheearliesttimeintherangebutyoufeelthatitneedsmoreflavor,moveyourjartotherefrigeratorandallowittocontinuetoinfusefor10daysormore.Thecoolertemperaturewillslowfermentation,sotheaciditywon’tincreasemuchbuttheflavorsofthevegetablesandseasoningswillcontinuetoinfuse.
Aswithallvegetablefermentation,temperatureimpactsfermentationtime,soplanontastingattheearlierpartoftherangeinwarmerhomesorseasonsandatthelaterpartoftherangeatcoolertimes.Youcanabsolutelygolonger,buttrytokeepthetemperaturelow.Overlongerperiods,youmayseetheformationofathinlayerofKahmyeast(whitishincolorandnotfuzzy)onthesurface,whichisharmless.JustacceptthatKahmispartoftheprocessandskimoffwhatyoucanwhenyouseeit.
ThinkBig(Jars)Water-sealingcrocksandlarge1/2-gallon(1.9L)jarsworkparticularlywellfortheseprobioticvegetabledrinks.Thejarsareavailablemostplacesthatcanningjarscanbefound.
LargeEuropeanjarsthatsealwithagasketandclampalsomakegoodchoices(withafewcaveats;see“ALiteralFlavorBomb,”page149)andareavailableinlargersizes,butold,store-boughtpicklejarsdothejobquitewell,too(justbesuretothoroughlycleanthembeforeuse).
GetVisualSomeofthesebeverageswillhaveboldlybeautifulcolors,whileotherswillhaveapale,cloudyappearance.Thatcloudinessisanormalpartofthefermentationprocessandnothingtobeconcernedabout,butifyouwanttoampupthehueabit,addafewchunksofbeetorafewsliced,redradishestojustaboutanykvassforaburstofcolor.
aboutanykvassforaburstofcolor.
LetItVentCO2iscreatedduringallvegetablefermentation,andwithkvass,itisespeciallyimportanttomakesurethatithasawaytoescapethefermentationvessel.Ifyouownanairlock,thisisagreatplacetouseit.Ifyoudon’t,makesurethatthejarlidisattachedloosely,sothataircan’teasilygetin,butCO2caneasilyescape.Tightenedlidscouldmeandangerous,explodingjarsormessy,sprayingkvass,neitherofwhichisdesirable.Ialwaysleaveabout2inches(5cm)ofspacebetweentheliquidandtherimofthejar,butasyoucanseein“AsktheProfessionalKvassMaker,”mineisnottheonlywaytodoit.
What’sinaName?Kvassisabitofamisnomerfortheseparticularbeveragesbecausethewordmeans“yeast”inavarietyoflanguages,andthekindoffermentationwe’redoinghereisprimarilybacterial.Thetermkvassmostaccuratelyreferstobreadkvass,abeer-likeRussianfermentthatisactuallyyeast-fermented.
Soalthoughthewidelyusedwordisn’ttechnicallycorrect,itcanbeconsideredsomewhataccuratebecausethesevegetabledrinksarepronetothatsurfacelayerofyeastwejustdiscussed(Kahmyeast).Weknowthatthatyeastlayerisharmlessandyoumayskimanystraybitsyousee,butIprefertopreventtheyeastfromforminginthefirstplacebygivingmyjaradailyswirl—notahardshake,justalittleswirltodisruptthesurfaceandpreventanythingfromformingthere.Ifayeastlayerdoessomehowform,justskimitwhenyouseeit.Theseyeastsaremorelikelytooccurduringthewarmermonths,withsweetervegetables(beetsandcarrots,forinstance),andduringlongerfermentationperiods.Evenairlocksystemswillnotkeepsurfaceyeastsfromforming,sodailyswirlsarestillrecommended.
Inadditiontotheswirl,Isometimesplaceacabbageleaforcollardgreenintotheopeningofthejar.Itcanactasasurfacebarrierandalsoputanyvegetablesorseasoningsthatrisetothesurfacebackunderneaththeliquid.ForanotherperspectiveondealingwithKahm,see“AskaProfessionalKvassMaker”onpage145.
REDBEETKVASSThisismystandardbeetkvassrecipe.Iliketohavealittleonhandallyear-round,substitutingthebasilforwhateverherbismostseasonalwhenIstartabatch.Beetkvassisalsoadailyfavoriteofmyhusband,whohasfoundthatithelpssoothehisacidreflux.WhatIlovemost,though,istheluxurious,deepredcolorofthisdrink.It’sperfectforHalloweenpartiesandtheBuffyloverinyourlife.
3largebeets(3pounds,or1.4kg)
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,grated
1cup(24g)wholebasilstems
3quarts(3L)filteredwater
1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt(optional)
Removethebeetgreensandwashthebeets.Trimanyunattractivebitsofrootandanysoftspotsandcuteachbeetintoeighths.
Addthebeets,ginger,andbasiltoa1-gallon(4L)jar.PourthewaterinandcoverthejareitherwithanairlockorwithalidleftlooseenoughtoallowCO2toescape.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6to10daysandthenstraintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:3quarts(3L)
SUNNYHERBKVASSUrbangardeningcanrequireabitofcreativity,butherbsarealwaysaneasyoption.ItrytogrowasmanydifferenttypesofherbsasIcanfit,simplybecausetheytrulymakethedishandbecausethey’resoinexpensivetogrow.Inthedepthofsummer,Imakeafewvatsofthisstufftoremindmethatsummerdoesexistonthosecold,wintryDecembernights.
1bunchofflat-leafparsley
1bunchofcilantro
1bunchofbasil
1/2teaspoon(2g)seasalt31/2quarts(3.5L)filteredwaterPickthroughtheherbbunches,removinganyyellowingorbrowningleaves.
Rinsetheherbsandplacethewholebunchesandthesaltintoa1-gallon(4L)jar.Pourinthefilteredwateruntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentation.
Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to6days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:31/2quarts(3.5L)
AskaProfessionalKvassMakerCarlyandDaveDoughertyaretheownersofFood&Ferments,anupstateNewYork-andPhiladelphia-basedfermentationcompany.Food&FermentsisbelovedforinnovativekombuchaandkrautflavorsandmostespeciallyforabeetkvassthathasfansallovertheEastCoast.AlthoughintheircommercialoperationtheyhavespecializedequipmentthatpreventsKahmyeastfromformingonthesurfaceofthekvasstheysell,theyarenostrangerstoKahmin
theirhomeproduction.HereareafewofCarly’stoptipsforperfectkvass.ONAVOIDINGKAHMYEASTSONBEETKVASS•Filljarsallthewaytothetop,sothattheliquidmakescontactwiththelid.Storethejaroveraplateorbowlduringfermentationbecauseitmaybubbleover,butit’sworthittoavoidtheoffflavorsthatcansometimesresultfromKahmyeast.
•Useanairlockforhomeproduction.Thisistheoneinstancewhereanairlockmaymakesenseforhomefermentation.Thelessairexposure,thelesslikelyyouaretoseeaKahmlayerpopup.Ifthekvassbubblesoutsomuchthatthelevelinthejarlowersbelowthelid,simplyaddabitmorewatertorefreshandresealthekvass’scontactwiththelid.Inthefirstfewdays,whenthebeetkvassismostactive,yourairlockmayfillwithkvassasitexpands.Don’tworry;refillyourairlockwithfreshwater(or,betteryet,vodkatopreventunwantedmicrobialactivityintheairlock)aftertheactivityhasceased,usuallywithin4daysorso.
ONCONCOCTINGKVASS•Spiceitup.Manybeetkvassrecipesusejustbeets,salt,water,andmaybealittlewhey.Forbestresults,spiceitup!Addingpungentrootsandspicypepperstobeetkvassisagoodwaytomaketheflavormoresavoryandrefreshing.Ginger,garlic,horseradish,andjalapeñoareallexcellentadditions.
•Golong.Rememberthatyourkvasswilldevelopmoreflavorandaciditythelongerit’sfermented.CarlyandDavefermenttheirkvassfor3to4weeks,whichmaybeonereasonthatit’safavoriteforsomanyoftheirpatrons.
FINALTHOUGHTSIfyoudogetKahmyeastonyourhome-brewedkvass,it’sreallynotabigdeal.Skimitoffwhenyouseeitandenjoythefinishedfermentwhenit’sready.
⊲WINTERHERBKVASSThecityofGeneva,Switzerland,mightaswellbethesetofaspaghettiwesternforthenumberoftumbleweedsthatrollthroughtownduringskiseason.WithsnowfallinginthenearbyAlps,residentsfleetothehills,snowboardsandskisinhand.I’veneverenjoyedbeingcoldorfallingonmybutt,somygo-toactivitywhenIlivedinGenevawastoaccompanyfriendsupthehill.Whiletheyskied,Ihikedthroughthesnowypinesandsoakedupthewintersun.Eachintenselyherbaceousandwoodygulpofthiskvassremindsmeofpinetreesandsunshineonthechillyslopes.
1largeradish,cutintothirds
1largebunch(2ounces,or60g)offreshthyme
1largebunch(2ounces,60g)offreshrosemary
1largebunch(2ounces,60g)offreshsage
1/4teaspoonseasalt3quarts(3L)filteredwater
Placetheradish,wholeherbbunches,andsaltintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandpourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlfortheentiretyofthefermentation.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.Thismixturemaybefermentedforlongerthan7days,buttheflavorstartstobecomequitewoodsy.
Yield:3quarts(3L)
WOODSYGINANDTONICWhenIletmyWinterHerbKvassfermentabittoolongandthewoodsyflavorbecomesabittoointensetoenjoyasastand-alonedrink,Iknowit’stimetobreakoutthegin.I’mallaboutservingupthesecretingredientstoimpressguests,andthismixerwilldefinitelyhavethemwonderinghowyoumakeyourG&Tsbetterthaneveryoneelse’s.
1/4cup(60ml)gin2tablespoons(30ml)WinterHerbKvass
1/3cup(80ml)tonicwaterTwistoflime
PourtheginandkvassintoaCollinsglassfullofice.Addthetonicwaterandgarnishwithatwistoflime.
Yield:1cocktail
⊲BULL’S-EYEBEETKVASSIlovetomakekvasswiththeChioggiabeets.Theirinteriorbull’s-eyepatterniseyecandyduringfermentation,butbetteryet,theymakeastraight-upneonbeverage.Ilovethatit’snotjustweirdfooddyesandinsaneprocessingmethodsthatcanmakeabrightpinkdrink.Irelishtheknowledgethatsomethingcanbeorganic,healthful,andthiscolorful.Ifyoucan’tfindChioggiabeets,feelfreetousegoldenorredbeetsinstead.Theonlydifferencewillbethecolor.
Ingredients4largeChioggiabeets(4pounds,or1.8kg)2organicunwaxedlemons,quartered
8inches(20cm)ofginger,unpeeled,chopped
1tablespoon(5g)corianderseeds
4bayleaves
2allspiceberries
4juniperberries
1teaspoonsalt(optional)
9cups(2.1L)filteredwater
Removethecrownandgreensfromthebeets.Trimanyunattractivebitsofrootandanysoftspotsandcuteachbeetintoeighths.Scrubandquarterthelemons.Puttheginger,coriander,bayleaves,allspiceberries,juniperberries,andsaltina1-gallon(4L)jar,addthebeetsandunsqueezedlemonwedges,andpourinthefilteredwatertofillto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor7to10days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:9cups(2.1L)
Youcandoasecondbatchwiththesamevegetablesandseasonings.Theflavorwillbecompletelydifferentandthecolorwillnotbeasintense.Thesecondbatchwillonlyneedtofermentfor3days.
ALiteralFlavorBombIfrequentlyfermentkvassinEuro-styleclamp-and-gasketjars.Theyaresoldin4-and5-litersizesandtheydon’tseemtogetKahmonthesurfacequiteasfrequentlyasmasonjarbatchesdo.Havingsaidthat,anyjarthatsealsshouldbeusedwithcaution.Althoughit’sarareissuewithkvass,whichdoesn’tbubblequiteasmuchasyeast-fermentedbeveragesdo,sealedjarscanexplodewhentoomuchpressurebuildsupfromtheCO2createdduringfermentation.So,ifyoudecidetouseasealingjarforbeveragefermentation,andespeciallyifit’sglass,beawareoftheexplosionriskandtakepreventiveandprotectivemeasures.HereareafewtricksIuse:•Neverfillagasket-sealingjarallthewaytothelid.Thatisthepathtoin-homekvasssprinklers.•Burp(akaopen)thejareveryfewdays.•Fermentforashorttime(3to5days)andthenmovetothefridgefor1to2weeksoflowandslowfermentation.
•Keepthejarinacooleroradoublepaperbaginsideofaplasticbag.
LETTUCEKVASSStudentsinmyfermentationclassesfrequentlyaskwhetherthereareanyvegetablesyoucan’tferment.Inanswer,Ipointtolettucekvass(afermentIinitiallydiscoveredthroughSandorEllixKatz’sbookTheArtofFermentation)asproofthat,ifyou’rewillingtobecreative,youcanfermentalmostanyvegetable.Lettuceisn’tthemostvigorousfermenterinmyexperience,sotheadditionoflotsofherbsandotherseasoningsiswhatreallymakesthispickledsipasuccess.
1headoficeberglettuce,quartered
1shallot(15g),peeledandslicedinhalf
1largebunchofdill,stemstrimmed
4juniperberries
1teaspoon(4g)mustardseed
1teaspoon(2g)peppercorns
1/2bunch(15g)ofmint2quarts(2L)filteredwater
1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt(optional)
Makesurethatthelettuceisfreshandthatanysoft,brown,ororangishpieceshavebeenremoved.
Placealltheseasoningsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandaddthelettucehalves.Pourinthefilteredwateruntilthejarisfilledto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2.
Letitfermentatroomtemperaturefor5to8days.Ifthelettucehasbeguntobrown,time’sup!
Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:2quarts(2L)
CABBAGEKVASSIhighlyrecommenddrinkingthesauerkrautjuicethatisleftinthejaronceyou’veeatenabatch.Thiscabbagekvassisabitofashortcuttothattasty,probioticjuiceandonethatwasinspiredbyatriptomyfavoriteEasternEuropeangrocerystore,NetCostMarket,innortheastPhilly.NetCosthasaninspiringpicklebarthatusuallyincludesavatofpickledcabbageliquid.Thisrecipeismyhomagetothat,butifyouwanttobemoreauthentic,addthreeorfourhotpeppersforaveryspicybatch.
1/2headofredcabbage(11/4pounds,or560g)1/2smallredonion(2ounces,or50g),peeledandhalved2clovesofgarlic,peeledandhalved
2tablespoons(14g)carawayseeds
31/2quarts(3.5L)filteredwater1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt
Cutthecabbageintoquarters.
Placetheonion,garlic,andcarawayseedsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandplacethecabbagepiecesontop.
Pourthefilteredwaterovertheingredientsuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplacethejarinabowlforthedurationoffermentation.
Coveryourjar,ensurethatitcanventCO2,andletitfermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.
Strainliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:31/2quarts(3.5L)
CELERYKVASSMyhusbandisakvasslover,andthismightbehisfavoriteofallthevegetablekvassesImake.Itcapturesallofthefreshgreennotesofthecelerybuthasnoneofthebitterness.Pouritovericeinahighballglassandgarnishwithasprigofthymeforanonalcoholiccocktailthatwillimpress.
Ingredients1bunchofcelery(11/4pounds,or560g)Three2-inch(5cm)sprigsoffreshthyme1/2teaspoon(1g)celeryseeds2bayleaves
1teaspoon(2g)peppercorns
1yellowcoreoflemongrass,splitlengthwise
1/4teaspooncayennepepper3quarts(3L)filteredwater
1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt(optional)
Rinsethecelerystalksthoroughlytoremoveanydirt.Trimtheends,butdonotremovetheleaves.Cuteachstalkintothirds.
Placealltheseasoningsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandaddthecelery.Pourinthefilteredwater,fillingthejarto1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceoverabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.
Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to9days.
Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:3quarts(3L)
⊲CUCUMBERFENNELKVASSAlthoughfermentedvegetabledrinksmaynotbethepreferredoptionforladieswholunch,Ibelievethisisanoptionthatcouldtempteventhemostelegantandchoosyofthespa-goingset.Thefenneldominatesandisroundedoutbythefreshcucumbernotes.ThisisoneIhavenoproblemservingatasummerteaparty.
Ingredients1largecucumber1fennelbulb,withfronds
Peelof1/2anorange,nopith3quarts(3L)filteredwater
1teaspoon(6g)salt(optional)
Cutthecucumberinto1-inch(2.5cm)thickslices.Chopthefennelbulbintolargechunksandseparateeachfrondfromthebulb.Whenpeelingtheorange,cutstripsthatareaslongaspossible;avoidpithasitwillimpartanunpleasantlybitteraftertaste.Placethecucumber,fennel,andorangepeelina1-gallon(4L)jarandpourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.
Onceittastessufficientlyflavorfulandacidic,straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:3quarts(3L)
MOROCCANCARROTKVASSWhenIwasakid,IsavedupmybabysittingmoneyandlobbiedmygenerousparentstoletmespendafewsummersinsouthwesternFrance.ThefirsttimemyFrenchhostfamilytookmetoaMoroccanrestaurant,mytastebudsdanced.Icouldnotbelievehowperfectlythesweetandsavoryflavorsplayedoffofeachother.Eversince,I’velovedcookingwiththesweetandsavoryseasoningsofMoroccancuisine.Makethiswithpurple-skinnedcarrotsforacolorthatresemblesthepink-orangesunsetsofMorocco,butorangecarrotsareafinesubstituteforflavor.
Ingredients15purplecarrots(2pounds,or900g)3wholestaranise
2cinnamonsticks
3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,cutinto1/4-inch(5mm)slices1tablespoon(6g)cuminseeds
1teaspoon(2g)peppercorns
10raisins
Peelof1smalllemon,nopith
Peelof1smalllime,nopith
Peelofhalfanorange,nopith
11cups(2.6L)filteredwater
1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt
Trimthecarrotsandcuttheminto2-inch(5cm)cylinders.
Addthestaranise,cinnamon,ginger,cumin,peppercorns,raisins,andcitruspeelstoa1-gallon(4L)jarandplacethecarrotsontop.Pourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.
Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5daysto2weeks.
Onceittastessufficientlyflavorfulandacidic,straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.
Yield:11cups(2.6L)
AlternativeApproachestoVegetableFermentation
Rememberallthoseruleswelaidoutinpartone?Well,youmayneedtopresspauseonthosewhileyouworkthroughthissection.Manyoftheimportantdetailsappliedinpreviouschapters(saltlevels,notpeeling,submersion,smallbatches)willbesetasideinoneormoreoftherecipesandtechniquesoutlinedhere.Getreadyforaglimpseintothewideworldoffermentsthatgowaybeyondsimplesaltandvegetablesinajar!
FermentinginCrocks
Crocksaregreatforpreservingalargerharvest(orfortakingadvantageofagreatbulkdealatthefarmers’market).Thebasicprinciplesofvegetablefermentationapplyequallytojarandcrockfermentation,butsizinguptocrocksdoesofferuniqueopportunitiesandchallenges.
ClassicCukes
WholeLeafCollardGreens
CollardWraps
WholeOnions
CrockKimchi
CornontheCob
SauerkrautSteak
TipsandGuidelinesMostofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytothe
Mostofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytotherecipesinthischapter,buttherearefewadditionalpointstotakeintoaccount.
ChoosetheRightCrockforYouTherearetwoprimarytypesofceramiccrocksavailableintheWest.Eachhasadvantagesanddisadvantagestoconsiderbeforepurchase.WATER-SEALEDCROCKS
Water-sealedcrocks,sometimesreferredtounderthebrandnameHarschcrocks,makeforaveryeasyferment.Theyaregenerallymoreexpensivethantheiropencrockcounterparts,buttheycomewithalidandoftenwithweightsthatcreatetheperfectfermentationbarrier.Noairentersthecrockoncethewater“seal”ispoured,butCO2createdduringfermentationeasilybubblesout.Batchesmadeinwater-sealedcrocksrarelyaccruealayerofKahmyeastduringfermentation.Theycanbesomewhatchallengingtocleanafterfermentation,dependingontheirsize.
Idealfor:Thiscrockisidealforfermenterswithadeepandabiding(thoughlet’sbehonest:illogical)fearofsurfacemoldsoryeasts;fermenterswhowanttosetitandforgetit;fermenterswhowanttocreatelargerbatchesoffavoritejarredferments.It’sperfectforSimplestSauerkraut(page76)orClassicCukes(page162).
Specialtip:Checkthemoataroundyourcrockaboutonceaweektomakesurethere’sstillwaterinthere.Ifitseemsabitlow,topitoffwithfreshwater.Ifthemoatdriesoutcompletely,thesealwillbebrokenandairwillbeallowedtoflowintoyourcrock.Openingthecrockalsoletsairin,soit’sbettertokeepthelidonuntiltheendoffermentationwhenusingawater-sealedcrock.OPENCROCKS
Opencrocksareusuallylessexpensivethanwater-sealedcrocksandtheirwide,cylindricalshapesmakeiteasytofitinandpositionavarietyoflargerpiecesandwholevegetables.Weightsandlidsoftenneedtobepurchasedseparatelyandcandramaticallyraisethecostofanopencrock.OpencrocksthatarenotcoveredwithafittedlidandleftundisturbedarepronetodevelopingalayerofKahmyeast,theharmlessyeastthatappearswhenafermentisexposedtotheair.Dependingontheirsize,opencrocksarequiteeasytoclean,sincetheirbasesandopeningsarethesamediameter.
Idealfor:Thiscrockisidealforfarmersandthosewithalargegarden.It’sperfectforfermentingwholevegetablerecipessuchasSauerkrautSteak(page
174)andwholeheadsofCrockKimchi(page170).
Specialtip:It’sbettertostartopencrockbatches,especiallywithwholevegetablesorlargerpieces,duringcoolerperiodstoavoidsurfaceyeasts.Evenduringnormalorcooltemperatureperiods,checkingthesurfaceofthecrockeveryfewdaysandskimmingoffanyKahmyeastthatmayhaveappearedonthesurfaceisagoodbet.Kahmisn’tharmful,butifmoldformsinathicklayer,itimpartsunpleasantflavorsandcancauseissueswithacidity,whichwouldbeproblematic.Ifyoudeveloptruemold(thatisn’tcolorful),it’snotnecessarilyareasontothrowoutthecontentsofyourcrock.Skimthemold,ladlesomebrineorvegfromasdeepinthecrockaspossible,anduseapHstriptotestacidity.IfthepHis4.0orbelow(asmeasuredwithastrip),youmaysafelyeatthevegetablesinthecrockiftheytastegood!
WeighYourSaltWhenfermentingincrocks,accuratesaltmeasurementsbecomesmoreimportant.
Whensaltingvegetablesforthejar,measuringratherthanweighingisatotallyreasonablechoice.Whilemeasuringmayresultinagramorthreeofdifferenceforajar,thelargerscaleofcrockfermentationmakesthese“small”variationsthatoccurbetweenmeasuringvs.weighingandusingonesalttypevs.anothermuchmorepronounced.Furthermore,inconsistentsaltlevelsforsmallerbatcheshavelowstakes.Ifyouusealittletoomuchortoolittleandyourpintofpicklesistoosaltyortoosoft,it’snotthatbigofaloss.Ifyou’vefilledacrockwith45pounds(20kg)ofcabbage,ontheotherhand,youmightbeabitmorepeevedifthatparticularbatchdoesn’tturnout.
Ifyou’veinvestedinacrock,investingasmallamountinadigitalgramscalemaywellbeworthitfortheaccuracyitprovides.Ifyouareanexperiencedfermenter,accustomedtosaltingtotaste,youcanabsolutelycontinuethatpracticeincrockfermentation.
UseWeightsFormostthingsyou’llputinyourcrock,aheavyweightisveryuseful.Ifyou’reselectinghouseholditemsorcraftingyourown,rememberthatmaterialsthatdon’tcorrode,getmoldy,orexpandwhenwetareyourbestoptions.Avoidwoodandmetalandmakesurethatyourweightfitscomfortablythroughthenarrowestpartofyourcrock.Thingsmovearoundduringfermentationandaweightthat’stoolargecouldpotentiallydamageyourcrock.
TanninsTanninsaddedtoabatchofpicklescanmakeallthedifferencebetweencrispyandfloppy.Thereareseveralsafesourcesoftanninsthatyoucanaddtoyourpicklesforcrispandcrunch.•Grapeleaves.Grapeleavesaremygo-tosourcefortannins.Theyareeasilyfoundinmostgrocerystores,andtheydonotimpartflavororbitterness.Theydotheworkofkeepingpicklescrispyquitewell.Ifbuyingpre-saltedleaves,soaktheminroomtemperaturewaterfirsttoleechoutsomeofthesalt.
•Tea.Blackteaisthebestchoicefromacrispnessstandpoint,butitalsoimpartsthemostflavor.Sometimesthat’saplus,butconsiderwhetherit’sagoodfitfortheparticularrecipe.
•Berryleaves(raspberry,blackberry,orstrawberry).RaspberryleavesarethebestberrytanninoptionI’vefound.Theyworkwonderfullybutarechallengingtofindifyoudon’tgrowyourownraspberries.
•Redwine.Wineworkswellinsmalldoses,butitshouldnotbeusedinquantitybecausethealcoholcanhaveanegativeimpactonlacticacidbacteria.Smalldosesarefine,butI’vehadthebestluckusingamaximumof1tablespoon(15ml)perpint(500ml)ofpickles.
•Hops.Hopsimpartflavorandabitoftheircharacteristicbitterness,buttheydohelpkeepveggiesfromsoftening.
•Rosehips.ThefruitoftheroseplantisknownforitshighvitaminCcontent,butitisalsoveryhighintannins.Itimpartsquiteabitofbitterness,soitisbestusedasatanninsourceoflastresortorinapicklewhereaddedbitternesscouldbeaplus.
FromCrocktoJarOnceacrockfermentisfinishedfermenting,thefunpartbegins—eatingit!Onlymaybeyouhavejusttwoorfourpeopleinyourfamily.Andevenifallofthosepeoplelovesauerkraut/pickledonions/kimchi,you’reunlikelytobeabletoworkthroughthecontentsofacrockwithinafewdays.Ifthat’sthecase,youhaveoptions,includinganycombinationofthefollowing:•Store
itinthecellar.Sadly,mostofusdon’thaverootcellarsandmanyofusdon’thavebasements.Evenforthosewhodo,crockscanbeunwieldy,andfullcrockscanbedownrightback-breaking(orimpossible)tocarry.Thisoptionworksbestforsmallcrocks.Fermentsinopencrockscanpickupsomemustybasementaromas,sowater-sealedcrocksareabetterchoiceforbasementstorage.Onceyou’veputyourcrockintothecoolerclimes,youcanremovesmallamountstostoreinthefridge(inajar)andconsume.Ifyourbasementstaysbelow60°F(15.6°C),consideraverylong,slowfermentationperiodinalargecrockthatstartsandendsdowninthebasement.•Transfertojar.Transferringtoajarforfridgestorageisagreatoption—providedyouhavethefridgespace.Withbrinedferments,useaforkorslottedspoontotransferthevegetablestooneormorelargejars,andthenusealadletoaddasufficientamountofbrinetoeachjarsothatthevegetablesarecovered.Closethejarandplaceinthefridge.Itisverylikelytherewillbeagoodamountofbrineleftinthecrock.
•Eatitfromthecrock.Eatingfermentsrightoutofthecrockmaywellbetheeasiestwaytoenjoycrock-fermentedfoods.Havingsaidthat,itdoeshaveitspitfalls.Everytimeyouopenyourcrockorremovetheweights,you’reexposingyourfermenttotheairandincreasingthechancethatyouwillendupwithsomesortofsurfaceactivity(moldoryeast)asaresult.Additionally,whenleftatroomtemperature,yourvegetableswillcontinuetoferment,becomingmoreacidicasthedays,weeks,ormonthspass.Ifyoudecidetogothisroute,keepthecrockinacoolplaceandbesuretoonlyusecleanutensilstopullediblesfromyourcrock(andnodoubledipping)!
It’sreallyamatteroffindingabalanceandfiguringoutwhatworksforyou.There’snowronganswer,andamixofmethodscanworkwonderfully.Tryjarringasmuchasyoucanreasonablystoreinthefridgeandgivetofriendswhilecontinuingtoeatsmallamountsfromthecrock.
⊲CLASSICCUKESThisishowIprefertomakecucumberpickles.AlthoughIrecommendmovingthemtothefridgeafterfermentationforbestresults,Icannottellalie:Ioftenleavemycrockfullo’picklesatroomtemperatureandjustfishthemout(withcleanutentsils!)asneeded,untilI’mdowntotheveryendofthebatch.Kahmforms,butotherwiseitworksjustfinethatway,probablybecausethesesign-of-summerpicklesneverlastlong.Ifthisisyourfirstcrockbatch,takethefridgeroute.Butonceyou’vegotthehangofit,they’regreatascrocksnacks.
IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:4to7pounds(1.8to3.2kg)Kirbyorpicklingcucumbers,dependingonthesizeofthecucumbers4bulbsof
garlic
1largeonion,peeledandquartered
10dillheadsor3largebunchesoffreshdill
3/4cup(135g)mustardseeds1cup(70g)packedgrapeleaves(seepage160Tannins,forotheroptions)6tablespoons(110g)koshersalt
2quarts(2L)filteredwater
Trimthethinnestpossiblelayerfromeachendofthecucumbers,andthenplacetheminalargebowloficewater.Whilethecukesaresoaking,peelthegarlic.Thisisalotofgarlic,sodon’tworryaboutgettingeverylittlepaperypieceofpeeloff.
Placethegarlic,onion,dill,mustardseeds,andgrapeleavesinthecrock.Drainthecucumbersandpackthemintothecrock,leavingabout4inches(10cm)atthetopofthecrockfortheweights.Applytheweights.
Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineintothecrock,coveringthecukeswith1inch(2.5cm)ofbrine.Coverthecrock.
Allowtofermentfor3to7days.Iftheseasoningsdon’tseemfullyinfused,packthepicklesintojars,pourinthebrineandseasoningsfromthecrock,andmovethemtoacoolerplacelikethecellarorrefrigerator.Allowthemtoinfuse
movethemtoacoolerplacelikethecellarorrefrigerator.Allowthemtoinfuseforanadditional7to10daysbeforeenjoying.Or,tasteoneadayuntilthey’rejustrightandthenhaveapicklefeast.
Yield:1gallon(3.8L)
Youmayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonyourcrockandvegetables.Useaconcentrationof11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfor6%brine.
WHOLELEAFCOLLARDGREENSThisistherare,quickcrockferment.Fermentedcollardgreenstastesoverydelicious,butiftheyfermentfortoolong,theyendupmushyandrotted.Theseleavesmakeawesome,naturallygluten-freewrapsgreatforpaleosandvegansalike.Theyaresuperflavorfulbutalsosalty,sochoosewrapingredientsthataresalt-freeorlowsalt.
IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:
2to3bunchesofcollardgreens(2to3pounds,or900to1350g),dependingonthesizeoftheleaves1/4cup(64g)koshersalt2quarts(2L)filteredwater
Cutoffthepartofthestemsthatprotrudebelowtheleaf,reservingthemforanotheruse(theypicklenicelyontheirown).Carefullywashthecollardleavesandremoveanyblemishedleavesandcutoutanywet,mushy,darkgreenspots.Reserve2leavesfortoppingthecrock.
Laytheleavesflatontopofeachotheranddividetheminto2piles.Looselyrollthepilesuplikerugsandstandthemontheirsidesinthecrock.Ifyouhavetroublerollingtheleaves,youcanshaveabitoffthebackofthestemstomaketheleavesmoreflexible.Donotoverpackthecrock.Overpackingcandamagetheleaves,makingindividualleavesdifficulttoremovefromthecrockandresultinginamushyferment.
Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineoverthecollards.Placethereservedcollardleavesontop,submergingtheminthebrineaswell.Applyalightweight,suchasasmallbowlorplate,andcoverthecrock.Standardcrockweightswillcompressthecollardstoomuch,resultinginsomemushyspots.
Allowtoferment4to5daysatroomtemperature.Enjoythecollardssoonafterfermentationorstoreintherefrigerator,coveredinbrinefromthecrock(alarger,rectangularfoodstoragecontainerwithatight-fittinglidworkswellforthis)forupto3days.Patdrybeforeusing.
Yield:Approximately25collardleaves
•Lookforunblemishedleavesthatareroughlythesamesize.
•Youmayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonyourcrockandvegetables.Useaconcentrationof1tablespoon(16g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfora3.5%brine.
AskaProfessionalPotterIaskedJeremyOgusky,theBoston-basedpotterbehindclaycrocks.comandtheBostonFermentationFestival,afewquestionsabouthowbesttofindandcareforcrocks.Hesharesabitofhisknowledgebelow.
ONUSINGOLDERCROCKSSafetyfirst.LeadisunlikelytobeanissueinU.S.potterymadeinthelast100years;however,somepotteryfromMexicomaycontainglazesthatareunsafeforfooduse.Totesttheviabilityofglazeonacrockofunknownorigins,leavealemonsliceorsomedistilledwhitevinegarinthecrockovernight.Ifthereisachangeinthecolororthetextureoftheglaze,itisreactiveandthecrockisnotsuitableforfermentation.Youshouldalsorunyourhandalongthecrocktoseeiftheglazeissmooth.Iftheglazelooksorfeelsrough,thatcrockisn’tagreatchoice.Roughglazecouldindicatethepresenceofmicroscopicpocketswheremicrobescansetupshopandrefusetoleave,causingunwantedfunkinessinyourfinishedfermentsovertime.
ONWHATTOLOOKFORINANEWCROCKLookforathickercrock.Itwillprovidebetterinsulation,whichhelpsregulatetemperature.Clayisanonreactiveandrelativelycheapmaterialthatdoesagreatjobofinsulating—that’sonegoodreasonit’sbeenusedtomakefermentingvesselsforthousandsofyears.
ONFUNCTIONANDFORMWhetherbuyingneworused,observetheinteriorandexteriorofthecrock.Doyouseeanycracks?Whenyourunyourhandoverthecrock,doyoufeel
Doyouseeanycracks?Whenyourunyourhandoverthecrock,doyoufeelanycracksordivots?Ifso,it’snotagreatchoice.
Totestforleaks,putsomewaterinit;itmustbewatertight.Watercouldleakifthestonewarehasacrack.Earthenwarecrocks,forinstance,aren’tsuitableforvegetablefermentationbecausetheyarenotwatertight.
ONTERMINOLOGYOncommerciallyproducedcrocks,you’llseethewords“High-Firedat×degreestovitrification.”Vitrificationmeanstheclayitselfhasgonethroughachemicaltransformationsothatitisnolongerporous.Aporouscrockcouldslowlyloseliquidovertimeandmightharborbacteriaevenafterthoroughcleaning.
Aglazeisanexteriorsurfacethatisbondedtoclayduringfiring.Glazeservesthedualpurposeofbeautifyingandprotectingtheclay.
ONCLEANINGCROCKSCrocksareeasytoclean.Somecrocksaredishwashersafe(checkyourmanualfirst),butahandwashwithsoapandwaterisusuallybest.Noscouringisrequired.
Iftherewasmoldinyourcrock,itmaybeworthdoingawipedownoftheinteriorofthecrockwitha50percentbleachsolutionandthenrinsingthoroughlybeforethenextuse.
FINALTHOUGHTSAlthoughcrocksaregreatforfermenting,youdon’tneedtobuyanyspecializedequipmenttofermentvegetables.Youdon’tevenneedacrocktogetstarted.Startfermentingwithwhateveryouhaveaccesstoandupgradetoacrockwhenitmakessenseforyou.
⊲COLLARDWRAPSThissimple,gluten-free,paleo-friendlywrapiswhatIeatforlunchmostdays.It’sloadedwithproteinandgoodfatsanddefinitelygivesmetonsofenergy.Iusedtohavethat2p.m.slump,butthisveggie-poweredlunchpushesmerightthroughtheafternoonyawns.Veganscansubstituteunsalted,cookedtempehand/orhummusforegg,asIoftendo.
Ingredients1avocado2hard-boiledeggs
1/2bellpepper
2WholeLeafCollardGreens(page164)
3handfulsarugulaorotherspicysaladmix
2tablespoons(30ml)ThousandIslandDressing(page137,optional)Peeltheavocadoandeggs.Inasmallbowl,mashtheavocadowithafork.Cuttheeggintothinroundsandthebellpepperintothinstrips.Laythecollardsflatonaplate.Scoophalfofthemashedavocadointothemiddleofeachcollardleaf.
Dividethearugulaevenlybetweenthecollards.Pressitintotheavocadoabitandtopwiththepepperslices.Layerontheeggslicesanddrizzlewiththedressing,ifusing.
Foldtheouteredgesofeachsideoftheleafintothecenterandthendothesamewiththetopandbottomedges.Eatwithyourhands.
Yield:2wraps
⊲WHOLEONIONSWholepickledonionsaregoodeatin’:theycanbestuffed,slicedthintotopsalads,or,ifyouwanttofreaksomeoneout,eatenwholelikeanapple.Atonemonthoffermentation,smallonionswillhaveakillerflavor—atruebalancebetweensweetandsour.Thelongertheyferment,themoresourtheybecome.Ifyou’relookingtocookthem,slicethinandsautéforeffortlesslycrispyrings.
IngredientsPer2.6gallons(10L)ofcrockspace:12pounds(5.4kg)smallishonions(4to6ounces,or115to170geach)
1/2cup(88g)mustardseeds1/4cup(20g)corianderseeds3cinnamonsticks
7bayleaves
5allspiceberries
5juniperberries
3cinnamonsticks
3wholestaranise
3tablespoons(15g)peppercorns
2tablespoon(4g)dillseeds
1tablespoon(6g)redpepperflakes
2clovesofgarlic
1cupplus11/2teaspoons(330g)koshersalt53/4quarts(5.8L)filteredwaterPeeltheonions.Placeallthespicesandthegarlicintothecrock.
Fittheonionsintothecrock,startingwiththelargestonionsandendingwiththesmallest.Whenalltheonionsareinthecrock,placetheweightsontop.Thereshouldbesufficientspaceforyourweightstofitontopwith2inches(5cm)ofheadspace.Youmayneedtomaneuvertheonionssothateverythingfits.
Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothecrock.Inawater-sealedcrock,thereshouldbeabrinelayerofa1/2to1inch(1.5to2.5cm)abovetheonions.Ifyou’reworkinginanopencrock,youwillwanta2-inch(5cm)brinelayerifpossiblebecauseevaporationwillreducebrineduringfermentation.Ifthecrockistoofulltoallowfora2-inch(5cm)brinelayer,checkeveryweekandtopoffthebrineifnecessary.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to3months.
Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to3months.
Oncetheonionsareassourasyou’dlike,youcanmovethemalltojarsandputthemincoldstorage(cellarorfridge).
Yield:2gallons(7.6L)
Theamountofbrinewillvarybasedonthesizeofyouronions;1to11/2gallons(3.8to5.7L)isaverage.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(14g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora6%brine.
CROCKKIMCHIILOVEcrockkimchi.Ihavenoscience-basedexplanation,buttome,italwaystastesbetterfromthecrockthanfromthejar.Plus,wholeheadsofkimchimakeknockoutfoodgiftsforthepepperheadinyourcircle.Justputitinaprettycontainerandtieitupwithabow.Sincekimchiisnotusuallypronetosurfaceyeastissues,Itendtopulloneheadatatimefromthecrock,asneeded,andstoretheremainingheadsatroomtemperature,inthecrock.Irevelintheflavorandtexturedifferencesthathappenovertime.
IngredientsPer3gallons(11.4L)ofcrockspace:6to8smallheadsnapacabbage(12pounds,or5.5kg)
3/4cup(225g)koshersalt4quartsand3cups(4.5L)filteredwater,divided
6tablespoons(60g)riceflour
2largedaikon(4pounds,or1.8kg),greensremoved
2largebunchesofKoreanchives(1pound,or450g),trimmed
1wholegingerrhizome,thoroughlywashedandtrimmed(leftunpeeled)
2bulbsofgarlic,peeled
2smallonions,peeled
1/2cup(120ml)fishsauce1/4cup(32g)drainedsaltedshrimp(saewoojuht)41/2cups(540g)gochugaruSoakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Packthecabbagesintoverylargebowlsorhotelpans.Mixthesaltinto4quarts(3.8L)ofthewaterandstiruntilthesaltisdissolved.Pourthebrineoverthecabbagesandtopthemwithaplatetokeepthemunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor48hoursuntiltheheadsarelimpandheavy.
Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthecabbage,beingcarefultosupporttheheadssothattheydonotbreakapart.Patthemdry.Wetheadsofnapacabbagewillresultinaverywet,brinedkimchi.
Inasaucepan,heat2cups(470ml)ofthewaterovermedium-highheat.Whiskthericeflourintotheremaining1cup(235ml)wateruntilrelativelysmooth.Whenthewaterinthepanreachesaboil,pourthericeslurryin,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about1minute.Removefromtheheatandmovetotherefrigeratortocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.
Juliennethedaikonandplaceinabowl.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)long
Juliennethedaikonandplaceinabowl.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)longpiecesandaddthemtothebowlwiththedaikon.Coarselychoptheunpeeledgingerandthepeeledgarlicandonionsandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththefishsauce,shrimp,andgochugaruandthecooledricemixture.Youmayneedtoworkinbatches,dependingonthesizeofyourfoodprocessor.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.
Putonyourkimchigloves.Thoroughlymixallbut1cup(225g)ofthespicepasteinwiththedaikonandchives.
Holdthebaseofaheadofcabbageinyournondominanthandandallowtheleavestofallopentothesideslikeaflower.Gentlypushapartthecenterofthecoreandrubthedaikonmixallovertheinsideandoutsidesoftheleaves.Continuedoingthiswitheachlayerofcabbageleaves,closingthembackuponcethereisabitofmixinthere.Thiswilladdsomebulktoyoursoftenedheadofcabbage.Repeatwitheachhead.Beforeplacingeachheadintothecrock,useyourhandtoslatherabitofthereserved1cup(225g)ofspicepasteovertheexteriorcabbageleaves.
Carefullyplaceeachcabbageheadflatintothecrock.Workcarefullytofittheheadstogetheruntiltheyaremostlyflatpacked,keepingasmuchofthevegetablemixpackedinsideaspossible.Scrapetheremainingspicepasteanddaikonmixoutofthebowlandspreaditoverthetopofthelayeredcabbages.Applytheweightandcoverthecrock.Moreliquidwillreleasefromthecabbagesandtheywillsubmerge.
Fermentfor1to2weeksatroomtemperature.Thisisoneyoucandefinitelyeatfromthecrock.Alwaysremovekimchiwithcleanhandsandutensils.
Yield:6to8headsofkimchi
Theamountofbrineneededwillvarybasedonthesizeofthecabbagesandthesizeofthevesselyouchooseforbrining.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(14g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora6%brine.
⊲CORNONTHECOBSomecallthesesweetandsourcorncobsbecausesomeofthecornsweetnessremainsafterfermentation,butthedistinctivesourflavorsoffermentationarealsoprominent.Thebestthingaboutthesecobsisthatyoucaneatthemstraightfromthecrock,uncooked,onahotsummernight.
IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:10thincobsofcorn,shuckedandrinsed
5tablespoons(90g)koshersalt
10cups(2.4L)filteredwater
Rinsethecobs,removinganyremainingsilk.Standwholecobsonendinthecrock.Theyshouldfitcloselytogether,with3to4inches(7.5to10cm)ofspaceatthetopofthecrock.Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineoverthecobsuntiltheyarejustcovered.Placeweightsoncornandcovercrock.Allowtofermentfor1to2weeks.Thecornwillbemoresourandlesssweetat2weeks.
Thecobswillkeepinthefridgeforaweekormore.
Yield:10cobsofcorn
Theamountofbrinemayvarybasedonthesizeofyourcorncobs.Useaconcentrationof1tablespoon(18g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfora4%brine.
⊲SAUERKRAUTSTEAKInaPolishandUkrainian-rootedAmericanfamily,it’sprettylikelythatyouhavesomeseriouscabbagetraditions.Inmyfamily,it’sgwumpki(alsocalledstuffedcabbage).Ifmydaddidn’tkeeptohispre–ChristmasEvetraditionofboilingcabbageandrollinggwumpkiuntil2or3a.m.,Idon’tthinkmyfamilywouldrecognizethenextnightasChristmasEve.Inmypickle-relatedeffortstoreconnecttomyheritage,I’vecomeacrosssomanywaysofpicklingcabbage.I’veprobablytastedhundredsofversionsbeforemakingthisonemynewcabbagetradition.Ilovetoimaginemyownancestorspoppingacrockofthisopenduringthecold,gray,Ukrainianwintertodiscoverthebrightestburstofcolorandflavor.
IngredientsPer3gallons(11.4L)ofcrockspace:5headsredcabbage(about13pounds,or6kg)
1bulbofgarlic,peeled
1/4cup(27g)carawayseeds1bunchofdill
1redonion,thicklysliced
8small,driedThaichilepeppers(optional)
5bayleaves
5juniperberries
11/3cups(245g)koshersalt11/2gallons(5.7L)filteredwaterRinsethecabbagesandremoveandsetasideanyundesirableouterleaves.Cutthecabbagesinhalf.
Placethegarlic,caraway,dill,onion,chiles,bayleaves,andjuniperberriesintothecrockandbegintheprocessoffittinginthecabbagehalves.Don’tbeafraidtomaneuver.Leave4inches(10cm)atthetopofthecrock.Ifyoucan’tgetthehalvestofit,orifthey’rejustabittoohighinthecrock,remove1or2halvesandcuttheminhalf.Cabbagequarterscanbefitinabitmoreeasilythanhalves.Applythecrockweights.
Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineintothecrockuntilthereisa1-inch(2.5cm)brinelayerabovethecabbage.
Fermentfor2to5months.Serveasthickslices.
Fermentfor2to5months.Serveasthickslices.
Yield:5headsofcabbage
Thisrecipeisintendedfora3-gallon(11.4-liter)crock,soyoumayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonthesizeofyourcabbageandtheshapeofyourcrock.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(11g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora4.5%brine.
No~Salt~AddedFerments
Throughoutthisbook,you’vereadabouttheimportantrolesaltplaysinvegetablefermentation.Butsaltisn’tactuallynecessaryforsafeandsuccessfulvegetablefermentation.Therearecommonferments,bothcontemporaryandtraditional,thatdonotinvolvetheuseofanyaddedsalt.
Therearegoodreasonstousesaltforvegetablefermentation,however.Saltisapowerfulpreservative,sosaltedvegetablefermentswilllastlonger.Saltprovidestheessentialelementsforacrispypickle,too.Somedangerousbacteriaarehalophobic(salt-fearing),whilelacticacidbacteriadojustfinewithevenaheartydoseofsaltandusingevenasmallamountofsaltgivesthegoodguysanadvantageoverthebadduringfermentation.ButsinceitisultimatelythecreationoflacticacidandtheresultinglowpHthatmakesfermentssafetoconsume,youcanabsolutelyfermentsafelywithoutsalt.
CeleriacBeetKraut
WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip
HealingBurdockTurmericPickles
SpicedGreenBeans
EarlGreyFennelBeets
TanninTea
SenchaDaikonPickles
BalancedBroth
Broth-PickledKohlrabi
TipsandGuidelinesThetechniquesdetailedhererelyonfoodsandliquidsthatarenaturallyhighintanninstokeepvegetablescrisp,aswellasvegetablesthatareabithigherinnaturalsalt(butstillsignificantlyhigherinKCl[potassium]thanNaCl[sodium]).Tea,forinstance,ishighintannins,whilecoconutwaterandBalancedBroth(page184)arenaturallyrichinsalts.Thetechniquesinthischaptermaybeappliedtoothervegetablesorotherrecipesinthisbook,buthardervegetables(radishes,beets,turnips,carrots,etc.)willbemuchbetterchoicesforno-salt-addedfermentationthansofterones(cucumbers,bellpeppers,orcollardgreens).
UsingTeaTeaisrichintannins,aningredientthatisoftenusedtomakesoftervegetablesstaycrispyduringfermentation.Sincethebiggesttasteissuewithsaltlesspicklesisthelackofcrispness,teadefinitelymakesagreatchoice.Feelfreetouseyourfavoritevarietyoftea,butforbestresults,chooseateathatisfreeofpreservativesandmaltodextrin.Theteaworksasbothaflavoringagentandasourceoftanninstopickupsomeoftheslackthatoccurswhensaltisabsent,sohavefuntryingdifferentteastomatch.TheEarlGreyFennelBeets(page181)inthischapterareafavoriteofbothsalt-freeandsalt-lovingfermenterswho’velearnedfromme.
UsingBrothThisspecialhomemadebroth(BalancedBroth,page184)ismadewithvegetablesthathaveanaturallyhighsaltcontent.Itisanaturalwaytomakevegetablesextratastyandabitlesssoftthantheywouldbeifjustfermentedinwater.Thevegetablesusedarehighsodiumbutmuchhigherinpotassium,whichhasabalancingeffectonsodiumforthoseconcernedaboutbloodpressure.
UsingCoconutWaterCoconutwaterhasbeenascribedmanymiracle,healingpowers.Ican’tspeaktothose,butIcantellyouthatitmakesagreatfermentingliquid.Fermentsmadewithcoconutwaterbubblealotandhaveawonderful,distinctiveflavor.
withcoconutwaterbubblealotandhaveawonderful,distinctiveflavor.
CELERIACBEETKRAUTIspentmanyamonthattemptingsalt-freesauerkrautwithverylittlesuccess.Astraight-uppileofmushwastheresultofalmosteverytrial.BeetsandceleriacdothebestjobofalltheelementsI’vefoundatkeepingkrautcrisp,butdon’texpectthetextureofasaltedkraut.
1/2pound(225g)cabbage,cutinto1/4-inch(5mm)shreds
1/4cup(60g)peeled,gratedceleryroot
1/4cup(56g)thinlysliced,quarteredbeets
Filteredwater,fortoppingoff
Combinethecabbage,celeryroot,andbeetsinalargebowl.Squeezeandsqueezeuntilyouseesomejuiceappear.Youwillnotseepuddlesofliquidasyoudowithsaltedsauerkraut,andthetextureofthecabbagewillnotchangedramatically.
Packthevegetablesintoapint(500ml)jar,pressingthemdownasbestyoucan.Topwithfilteredwater.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.
Fermentfor1weekorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Thisdoesn’tstaycrispverylong,soplantoeatitwithinacoupleofweeks.Ifitgetstoosoft,puréeandenjoyasaspreadordip.
Yield:1pint(450g)
WHITEBEANSAUERKRAUTDIPOneofthedownsidestosalt-freekrautisthetexture.Itjustdoesn’tgetthatcrisp.I’vealwaysbeenoneforlookingonthebrightside,somytrickforsoftkrautistofindadishwheresoftisdesirable.Enterthisdip.Betweentheacidfromthekrautandthegeneroususeofherbs,youwon’tmissthesaltonebit.
3/4cup(180g)CeleriacBeetKrautoryourfavoritesalt-freesauerkraut
1/2cup(90g)freshcookedor(131g)canned,salt-freecannellinibeans
11/2teaspoons(1g)driedsageleaves
1/2teaspoon(0.5g)driedthyme
Drainthesauerkrautwellandrinseanddrainthebeans.Putalltheingredientsinthefoodprocessorandprocessuntilsmooth,about3minutes.
Yield:1cup(300g)
•Ifyoueatsalt,feelfreetotrythiswithasaltysauerkraut!
•Servewithpitachipsorcrudités.
HEALINGBURDOCKTURMERICPICKLESIhavesufferedfromeczemasincethedayIwasborn.ThedoctoractuallytoldmymominthedeliveryroomthatIwouldneverhaveacnebecauseofit,whichjustgoestoshowhowpoorlyautoimmuneissueswereunderstoodatthetime!Istilldogetoccasionalflare-ups,andwhenIdo,Iliketohaveabitofthisanti-inflammatorypickleonhandtohelpmeout.Burdockisbelievedtohelpspecificallywitheczema,andturmericisanall-purposegoodguyforyouranti-inflammatoryneeds.Combined,theytastegreatandgiveaid.
Ingredients14ounces(390g)burdockroot
2ounces(55g)turmericroot
2cups(470ml)coconutwater
Cuttheburdockandturmericrootsinto1/4-inch(5mm)thickcoins.Placebothinaquart(1L)jarandpourthecoconutwateroveruntiltheyarejustcovered.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.Coconutwaterfermentstendtobubblevigorously,soleaveatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthesurfaceoftheliquidandtherimofthejarandkeepyourjarstoredonaplateoranoldkitchentowelduringfermentation.
Fermentfor5daysto2weeks.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Turmericstainsarevirtuallyimpossibletogetout(justaskmywoodcountertops),sobesuretoputturmericstraightinthejarandavoidtouchinganythingelseuntilyou’vewashedyourhands.
SPICEDGREENBEANSCoconutwaterfermentsareloadsoffun.Theybubblealot,andtheyhaveadistinctiveflavorthatcandefinitelybehabit-forming.Liketheothersalt-freemethodsfoundinthischapter,usingcoconutwatertofermentdoesn’tfeellikeacompromise,butlikeanew,fermentyadventure.Coconutwaterfermentswilldefinitelyendupabitmoresourthanbrineferments.
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeledandsliced
1cinnamonstick
1allspiceberry
1/2teaspoon(0.5g)redpepperflakes
1/2pound(225g)greenbeans,endstrimmed
1cup(235ml)coconutwater
Placeallthespicesinapint(500ml)jar.Gentlyfillthejarwithgreenbeans.Don’tpackthemtootightly,asbruisedbeansmakeforsoftpickles.Thebeansshouldreachabout1inch(2.5cm)belowtherimofthejar.Pourthecoconutwateroverthebeansuntiltheyarejustcovered.
Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.Coconutwaterfermentstendtobubblevigorously,sokeepyourjaronaplateoranoldkitchentowelduringfermentation.
Fermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.By10days,thegreenbeanswillbesofteningabit.
Yield:1pint(450g)
EARLGREYFENNELBEETSWhenitcomestotea,Iusedtobeveryboring.IlovedthecitrusytangofEarlGrey,andIwoulddrinkalmostnothingelse.ThenIbecamefriendswithteaexpertAlexisSiemons,whoopenedmyeyestothemanyshadesofteathatI’dbeenmissing.IstillloveEarlGrey,though,soItookinspirationfromAlexisandstartedcookingwithit.
1beet(1/2pound,or225g),trimmed,greensremoved
1ounce(28g)thinlyslicedfennelbulb
3/4cup(180ml)cold-brewedEarlGreytea(page182)
Slicetheunpeeledbeetsinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slicesandplaceinapint(500ml)jar(cuttheslicesinhalf,ifnecessary,tofitthemin).Slidethepiecesoffennelbulbinaroundthesides.Pourtheteaoverthebeetsuntiltheyarejustcovered,leaving1inch(2.5cm)ofspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.
Fermentfor1weekorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Thesedon’tlastaslongassaltedpickles,soplantoeatwithinacoupleofweeks.
Yield:1pint(450g)
TANNINTEAAfewyearsback,Ifinallyrealizedthatcoldbrewingteawasthewaytoaperfectsummercup.Neverheatingthetealeavesmeansnevertakingabittersip.Theflavorsoftheteadominatethebitternotes,andthishasmademealifelongconvert.Brewingcoldisasimpleprocessthatrequiresabitmoreteathanbrewinghot.
1quart(940ml)filteredwater,atroomtemperature
5teabagsor4teaspoons(8g)loosegreenorblacktea,anyvariety
Pourthewaterintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthetea.Closethejarandallowtosoakatroomtemperatureorinthefridgefor8to12hoursandupto24hours.
Removetheteabagsorstrainouttheloosetea.
Storetheteainthefridgeandbringbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeusingforfermentation.Usewithinaweek.
Yield:1quart(1L)
⊲SENCHADAIKONPICKLESAlovelyJapanesegreenteapairedwithalovelyJapaneseradishisallittakestomakethissimple,crispy,anddelicatelyflavoredpickle.Theflavoroftheteahereisquitesubtle,andthecold-brewingprocessensuresthatthereisnobitterness.Thesepicklesareverysour,butalsoveryfreshandcleantasting.Servealongsideabowlofwarmingmisosoup.
1smalldaikon(1/2pound,or225g)
3/4cup(175ml)cold-brewedsenchagreentea
Trimthedaikonandcutintostripsthatare1/2inch(1.5cm)wideand3to4inches(7.5to10cm)long.Standthemonendinapint(500ml)jarandpourtheteaoverthetopuntilthedaikoniscoveredandthereisabout1inch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthebrineandtherimofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.
Fermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(450g)
BALANCEDBROTHMyfriendBethhasneverlovedtocook,butshedidintroducemetotheconceptofdrinkingbroth.It’sasimplerecipe,andit’ssavory,warming,andhealthfultohaveonhandinthecoldermonths.TheversionofthebrothImakehasagreat,naturalbalanceofpotassiumandsodium,whichmakesitidealforsalt-freefermenting.
6carrots
3beets,trimmed
1smallceleryroot,peeled
1smallleek,choppedandsoakedtoremovegrit
1bunchofcelery,leaveson
3quarts(3L)filteredwater
Washandchopallthevegetablesintolargechunksandplacethemina6-quart(6L)pot.Pourthewaterintothepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheat,andallowtosimmerfor1hour.Transfertothefridgetocoolbeforeusingforfermentation.Youcanmakethisupto5daysinadvance.
Yield:3quarts(3L)
⊲BROTH-PICKLEDKOHLRABIKohlrabilookslikeacreaturefromafarawayplanet,butitsflavorandtexturearesofamiliar.Itsbrassicacousinsincludeotherwonderfulfermenterslikecabbageandcauliflower.Alongwithradishes,turnips,rutabaga,andbeets,itmakesagreatoptionforbrothpicklesbecauseithasatexturethatstayscrispy,evenwithoutanoverabundanceofsalt.
1kohlrabiroot,trimmedandwashed
1cup(235ml)BalancedBroth
Chopthekohlrabiinto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)sticks.Packthepiecesintoapint(500ml)jarandaddthebrothuntilthekohlrabiisjustcovered.Thereshouldbeabout1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.
Fermentfor7to10daysorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.
Yield:1pint(450g)
SafelySalt-FreeThetrickstoexcellentsalt-freefermentsaretopaycloseattentiontosmellandappearanceandtofindareliablewaytotestpH.Problemsthatveryseldomoccurinsaltedvegetablefermentsdooccurmorefrequentlyinsalt-freefermentation.Offsmells,reminiscentofcheese(especiallySwisscheese)androtteneggsshouldbetakenveryseriously.Theycouldindicateanunwantedsecondaryfermentation,andbatcheswiththosesmellsshouldbediscardedandnottasted.Salt-freebatchesaremorepronetocolorfulmolds,andthosebatchesshouldalsobediscarded.Thesafestbetinsalt-freefermentationistouseapHmetertotesttheacidityofthefinishedproductbeforeyoueatit.IfthepHreadsbelow4.0onapHmeterorteststrip,thefermentissafetoeat.
Formanypeople,itseemsthattheactualissuewithsaltisthelargeamounthiddeninhighlyprocessedfoods,andthatabitofsaltaddedto
amounthiddeninhighlyprocessedfoods,andthatabitofsaltaddedtohomemadefoods,likepicklesorkraut,isn’treallyaproblem.Butifyouhavedecidedtoeliminatedietarysaltforwhateverreason,theserecipesareforyou.Evenifyoudon’tavoidsalt,themethodsoutlinedinthissectionmakegreat-tastingpicklesthateveryonecanenjoy.
Tsukemono,SunPickles,andOtherPathstoCulturedVegetables
Therecipesinthischapterofferentirelydifferentwaystofermentandculturevegetables.Fewofthemethodsusedforinparttwowillberelevantwhenyou’rebuildingculturingbeds,likethemisodokoornukadoko.Likewise,yeastfermentation/GarlicHoney(page194)hastotallydifferentrulesthanbacterialfermentation.Andtheall-importantsubmersion?It’snotrequiredwhenmakingHariMirchAchaar(page197).
Eachtypeoffermentationtoucheduponhererightlyboastsabevyofbooksandarticlesdevotedtoitalone.Thisgoalofthischapteristoofferyouawaytolookthroughthetelescopeanddiscoverafewlittlecornersofthefermentationuniversethatmayleadyoutodeeperexploration.
BuildingaMisodoko
MisoRhubarb
MisoSunchokes
BuildingaNukadoko
NukaCukesandRadishes
GarlicHoney
HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle)
CarrotCardamomSunPickle
CulturingandMaking“Quick”JapanesePicklesTheJapanesepicklingtradition,whichhasarichhistoryandinvolvesmanydifferentstyles(manyofwhichdonotinvolvefermentation),isascloseaswe,thefermenters,getto“quickpickles.”Letmebeclear—thepicklingitselfisquickbutthemethodswe’recoveringhereinvolvemakingabedforyourpicklestoliein.Thebuildingofthebedisthekey(especiallyforNukadoko,page191),andthatsometimesrequirescarethatgoeswellbeyondwhatneedstobedoneforthesimplepicklesinearlierchapters,buttheresultsarewonderfullyunique.
⊲BUILDINGAMISODOKOMakingmiso-culturedpickles(misozuke)isextremelyeasyandtheprocessisquickbyanyone’sstandards(notjustafermenter’s).Anyflavorsyouaddtothepicklingbedwillbeabsorbedintothepickles,sokeepthatinmindifculturingonions,garlic,orhotpeppers.Thesepickles,likemanytsukemono,areextremelysalty,soIlikethembestpairedwithlightlyseasoneddishesorgrains.
Ingredients1cup(250g)miso
1/4cup(60ml)mirin
3clovesofgarlic,finelyminced
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,peeledandfinelyminced
Afewfinegrindsofpepper
Inasmallbowl,combinealltheingredients.Packintoa2-to3-cup(475to710ml),food-safe,glasscontainerwithatight-fittinglidandthenaddthevegetables(seeRecipeNotesfordetails).
Forbestresults,storeintherefrigeratorwhennotinuseorwhenculturingforlongerperiods.
Yield:2to3cups(450to680g)
•Vegetableoptionsarebasicallyunlimited.Ifyouusevegetableswithahigherwatercontent,youwill“age”yourbedmorequickly,meaningthatitwon’tbearoundforasmanybatches,butamisodokoiseasytomake,andcucumber,bellpeppers,andleavesofallsortsarefunmisozuke,sotrythemall!
•Whitemisoisfermentedfortheshortesttimeofthecommonmisos,soitwillbetheleastsaltyandthesweetest.Redmisowillbethemostflavorfulandsaltiestoption.Experimenttofindyourfavoritecombination.
favoritecombination.
•Thiscanbeaverylongorshortprocess.I’veagedsomevegetables(MisoSunchokes,page190)forlongerthan6monthsanddoneothersforaslittleasanhourortwo.Shorterperiodsyieldslightlysaltyandlightlyflavoredvegetables,whilelongerperiodsresultinvegetablesthataredramaticallyalteredincolorandtexture.There’snoreasonnottotasteapieceortwoeverydaytoseewhereyourpreferenceslie.
•It’sokaytopeelyourvegetables!Themicrobesthatwillbeculturingyourvegetablescomefromthemiso,notfromthevegetables,whichmeansyou’refreetoremovethepeelofanyvegetableyouputintothebed.
•Rinsingafterremovingthevegetablesfromthebedistraditionalbutnotrequired.Itwillremoveanyextramisobitsandmakethepicklesslightlylesssalty.
•Overtimeandseveralbatches,thebedwillgetwateryfromallthevegetablesyou’reputtingin.Onceitistrulywet,muchoftheflavorwillbegone,soitmaybetimetoamakeanewbedandtoaddthatmisodokotoagiantbatchofsoup.
•Onceyou’veremovedyourvegetables,eitherreuseyourmisobedimmediatelywithfreshvegetablesorcoverandputitintherefrigeratoruntilyou’rereadytouseitagain.
MISORHUBARBIespeciallyenjoyhighacidvegetablespickledinmiso.Thesaltinessofthemisoisbalancedbytheacidityoftherhubarb,andtherhubarbitselfistransformedandbarelyrecognizableafterevenafewdaysinthemisodoko.Vegetablesshrinksignificantlyduringtheirculturingperiodduetothehighsaltcontentofmiso,soitcanbetrickytofishthemalloutoftheircomfypicklingplace.InherexcellentbookAsianPickles,KarenSolomonrecommendsusingcheeseclothtoavoidlosinganysavorybites.Idon’tminddiggingtofindtheoccasional,extra-agedsurprise,butSolomon’smethoddoesreducetheamountofmisobedlostduringtheremovalofthevegetables.
1misodoko(page189)
2stalksofrhubarb,choppedinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces
Placehalfofyourmisomixtureintothecontainerandtopwithalayerofcheesecloth.Placetherhubarbonthecheeseclothandthenplaceanotherlayerofcheeseclothonthevegetables.Packtheremainingmisomixtureontopofthetopcheesecloth,allowingtheendsoftheclothtoprotrudefromthecontainerforeasylifting.Packthemisodownwithawoodenspoonandputthelidonthecontainer.Movetotherefrigeratororleaveatroomtemperature.
Allowtoculturefor1week.Pullupthesidesofthecheeseclothtorevealtheculturedrhubarbbeneath.Diceanduseasasalty,tangyseasoning.
Yield:3/4cup(170g)
MISOSUNCHOKESSunchokesareoneofmyfavoritevegetablestoputintothemisobedforseveralreasons.First,Icanbealittlelazywithmybed,andsometimesImissavegetableortwowhenI’mdiggingthroughwithmyfork.Withsunchokes,itdoesn’tmatteratall.I’vehadastrayslicesitinthebedinthebackofthefridgeformonthsandmonthsandwhenIfinallydugitout,itwasperfectlycrispy,salty,andreadytobeeaten.Thereisalsosomethingsounexpectedlylovelyaboutthecomplexumamiofthemisobedandthelightartichokeflavorofthesunchoke.
1/2cup(75g)slicedsunchoke1misodoko(page189)
Burythesunchokeslicesinthemisobed.Pressdownabittopackthebed.(OruseKarenSoloman’smisomethodoutlinedintheMisoRhubarbrecipe).Coverthecontainerandmovetothefridge.Allowtofermentfor1to6months.Thesunchokeshouldbecrispbutalmosttranslucent,likeawaterchestnut.Rinseandenjoy.
Yield:1/2cup(115g)
BUILDINGANUKADOKOEverynukadokoseemstohaveitsownsignatureflavors.Somearemoresourthanothers,andsomearesmokyormeaty.Eveninmyownhome,I’veneverbuilttwothatproducethesameflavors.Evenifyourlifestylewon’tallowforthenecessarylong-termmaintenance,trymakingoneandmaintainingitaslongasyoucan.Thesepicklesareworththework.Feedingthebedvegetablescrapsinoculatesitwithlacticacidbacteriaandhintsofflavor.
Ingredients1pound(450g)ricebran
4piecesofkombu,cutintosmallstrips
2clovesofgarlic,minced
1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,minced
1tablespoon(9g)mustardpowder
1teaspoon(1g)redpepperflakes
11/4cups(300ml)filteredwater1/2cup(120ml)beer
1/2cup(150g)finesalt
1cup(150g)vegetablesscrapsperweek
Inyourlargestskilletandworkinginbatches,toastthericebranovermediumheat,makingsurethebranlayerisnomorethan3/4inch(2cm)deep.Stirconstantlyuntilitdarkensslightlyandbecomesveryfragrant,likefreshlybakedcookies,about2minutes.Ifitstartstosmelllikepopcorn,removefromheat,stirvigorously,andturntheheatdownabit.Letitcool.
Ina1/2-gallon(2L)orslightlylargercontainer,stirtogetherthecooledricebran,kombu,garlic,ginger,mustardpowder,andredpepperflakes,distributingtheseasoningsthroughoutthebran.
Combinethewater,beer,andsaltandstiruntilsaltisdissolved.Pourtheliquidintothericebran.Stiruntilathickpasteforms.Ifthebedistoodrytostirwithreasonableease,addmorewater,1tablespoon(15ml)atatime,untilthemixtureisjustflexibleenoughtoallowyoutoeasilyburyandfindvegetablepieces.
pieces.
Addvegetablescrapsintothebedandstirtodistribute.Stiryourbeddaily.Onceaweek,removeasmanyvegetablescrapsaspossibleanddiscardthem,returningbackasmuchricebranmixturefromthescrapsasyoucan.Duetothehighsaltcontentofthebed,thevegetablescrapswillshrinksignificantlyduringthisprimingperiod.Onceyou’veremovedthem,addafreshbatchofvegetablescraps.Repeatfor4to6weeksuntilthesmellofthebedispleasantlysour.SeeNuka-CukesandRadishes(page192)forproceedingwithmakingpickles.
Althoughyou’llbereturningasmuchbranmixtureaspossibletoyourvessel,eachtimeyouremovepickles,you’llbelosingalittlebitofvolume,aswellassaltandflavorthatare,asintended,suckedintothevegetables.Withdailyuse,youmayneedtoreplenishthebedbyaddingsalt,toastedbran,water,andseasoningsasfrequentlyasonceamonth.
Yield:1/2gallon(1.9L)Goodcandidatesforvegetablescrapsincludeturnipandradishpeelsandthehardouterleavesandcoresofcauliflower,broccoli,andcabbage.Avoidmembersoftheonionfamily,sincelargeramountswillimparttoomuchflavor,andbeawarethatcarrotsandbeetscanleachcolorintothebed.
⊲NUKACUKESANDRADISHESOnceyou’veestablishedyournuka-bed,thehardpartisover.Theprocessofactuallymakingnukazuke(nukapickles)issimpleandveryflexible.Justaboutanyvegetablewillwork,butnukacukesareparticularfavorites.Foraquickpickle,Islicethemonthebiasinto1-inchchunksandletthemcultureforanhourtoaday.WhenI’mfeelingmorepatient,Ipushtheminwhole,addabunchofradishes,andwaitaweek,asoutlinedbelow.
Ingredients1Englishcucumber
1bunchofradishes,greensremoved
1nukadoko(page191)
Withverycleanhands,pushthecucumberandradishesintothenukadokountiltheyarefullysubmergedandlightlypressdownonthetopofthericebrantomakesurethevegetablesareallpackedin.
After5to7days,removethe(nowwilted)vegetablesandscrapeanyremainingricebranmixturebackintothebed.Usethepickleswithinafewhours.
Stirtheemptybedandaddfreshvegetablesforpickling.Ifyoudon’twanttostartthepicklingprocessagainimmediately,besuretostirtheemptybedatleastonceadayuntilyouaddfreshvegetables.
Yield:1to2cups(225to450g)
GarlicHoneyat4days(left)and3months(right).
⊲GARLICHONEYWhenIwasakid,mymomskippedthecoughsyrupinfavorofahomemaderemedyofhoney,adroportwoofwhiskey,andlemon.I’msurethismixturewouldbefrownedupontoday,butitwastastyanditdidcalmmynighttimecoughs.Thisrecipe,adaptedfromIkukoHisamatsu’sbookQuick&EasyTsukemono,ismyanswertomymom’soldremedy.Thisisalongfermentandtheonlyyeastfermentinthisbook.
Ingredients5bulbsofgarlic,peeledandseparatedintocloves
10ounces(280g)rawhoney
Placethegarlicclovesinapint(500ml)jar,fillingto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim,andaddthehoney.Somerawhoneyismoresolidthanliquid,soyoumayneedtoaddsmallamountsandallowittimetoseepintothejarbeforeaddingmore.Stirandcoverwithlid.Stirdailyforafewweekstosubmergegarlicandstirinanyhoneydepositsatthebottomofthejarbeforeaddingmore.Asfermentationprogresses,thehoneywillbubbleandthegarlicwillreleaseitswater,makingthehoneymoreliquidandtheclovesshrunkenandbrown.Oncethecontentsareinthisstate,reducestirringtoevery3to4days.
After3monthsoffermentation,youmaystarttotake1tablespoon(15g)ofhoneyoracloveofgarlic,asneeded,asacurative.Storeintherefrigerator.
Yield:1pint(500ml)
Thisrecipeisessentiallyakindofgarlicmead,whichmeansitisnotmadeforitsprobiotics.GettingthepHlowenoughandthealcoholhighenoughforoptimalsafetywilltakequiteabitlongerthanitdoesinlacticacidfermentation.ThisrecipeshouldideallybepHtestedbeforeconsuming.OncethepHhasreachedsafelevels(4.0orbelow),movetothefridgeforstorage.
IndianSunPicklesUnderstandingwhythesepicklesworkrequiresunderstandingafewspecificsofvegetablefermentation.Lacticacidbacteriaarefacultativeanaerobes,whichmeansthattheygenerallydotheirconvertingworkinanoxygen-freeenvironment,buttheycanswitchgearsandkeepontruckin’ifoxygenispresent.
Becauseoftheunorthodoxmethodologyusedtomakethesepickles,youshouldnotvarysaltorlemonjuicelevelsasyouwouldinotherrecipes.RestassuredthatthereisalongtraditionofthiskindofpickleinIndia,inthehotsun,andyoucanalwaysmeasurepHtobesafe.
Notethatthesearen’ttheeasiestpicklestomake.Theyrequireseveralstepsandabitofattention,buttheykeepinthefridgeforagoodlongwhile(ayearormore)andtheirflavorsmakethemwellworththeextrabitofeffort.Iftheflavorsgettoohotorintense,tryblendingasmallamountandusingitasaspreadforidli,dosai,oranyotherfermentedIndianbread.
⊲HARIMIRCHACHAAR(INDIANHOTPEPPERPICKLE)Ifyoucan’tfindtheslender,greenHariMirchpeppers,cayenneoranyotherslimandspicypepperwilldothetrick.Thesepicklesaretraditionallymadeinthesummerwhenbrightsunshinewillheatthingsupfast,butIsometimescheatanddotheminmykitchen,completelyindoors.
Ingredients1/2cup(88g)mustardseeds
1/2teaspoon(1g)nigellaseedsorblackcumin(shahjeera)seeds5wholeblackpeppercorns
1/2teaspoon(1g)fennelseeds1teaspoon(3g)fenugreekseeds
11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt1tablespoon(7g)turmericpowder
1pound(450g)chilipeppers(about50),washed,capsremoved,andchoppedinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces5tablespoons(75ml)freshlemonjuice
1cup(235ml)mustardoil
Grindthewholeseedspicesintopowderinaspicegrinderandcombinewiththesaltandturmericpowder.
Placethepepperpiecesintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthespicepowder.Mixthoroughlyorputalidonitandshaketodistributethespicepowder.Pressthepeppersbackdownsotheyaremostlycoveredinthespicepowder.
Placethelidonthejar,butleaveitjustlooseenoughtoletCO2escape.Placeyourjaroutsideinasunnyspot.Bringitinatnightandputitbackoutthenextmorning.Repeatforatotalof3days,stirringthoroughlyeachnightwhenyoubringitin.
Thenightofthethirdday,addthelemonjuice.Stirorshakeverywell.
Putitbackoutsidefor2moredays,bringitin,andshake/stirwelleachnight.
Attheendofthelastnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthe
Attheendofthelastnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthemustardoilinasaucepanoverhighheatfor5minutes,untilsmoking.Removefromtheheat,letitcooltoroomtemperature,andthenpouroveryourveggie/spicemix.Stirwell.Useaspatulaorspoontoscrapeexcessspicemixturefromthesidesdownintothejar.
Letitsitovernight,insideatroomtemperature,andstarttasting3dayslater.Theoilshouldn’tsmell“oily”whenthesearereadytoeat;itshouldbeinfusedwiththeflavorsofthespicesandpeppers.Itmayuptoaweekfortheflavorstofullyinfuse.
Oncethey’reinfused,storeintherefrigerator.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Heatingthemustardoilcancausecoughing.Openwindows,turnontheventfan,andbepreparedtoleavethekitchenifyoufeelyourthroattickleoryoureyeswater.
CARROTCARDAMOMSUNPICKLEThisisforthecardamomlovers.UnlikewiththesimplelactopicklesinearlierchaptersthatIeatbythehandful,Ireservethesepicklesexclusivelyforseasoning.Thespicesareintenseandtheykeepforalongtimeinthefridge,soIlovepuréeingsmallamountsofthispickleandthrowingitinthepantocookwithonionsorcauliflower.
Ingredients1tablespoon(6g)cardamomseeds
2tablespoons(12g)cuminseeds
1tablespoon(5g)blackpeppercorns
1tablespoon(11g)mustardseeds
11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt2cups(244g)1-inch(2.5cm)carrotpieces(4to5carrots)
3tablespoons(45ml)freshlemonjuice
1tablespoon(8g)turmericpowder
1cup(235ml)mustardoil
Grindthewholespicesintoapowderinacoffeeorspicegrinderandmixthoroughlywiththesalt.
Placethecarrotsintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthepowderedspices.Placealidonthejarandshakewell.Pushthecarrotsdownsothattheyarecoveredinspices.
Replacethelid,butleaveitlooseenoughtoletCO2escape,andplaceyourjaroutsideinasunnyspot.Bringitinsideatnightandputitbackoutthenextmorning.Repeatforatotalof3days,stirringthoroughlyeachnightwhenyoubringitin.
Thenightofthethirdday,addthefreshlemonjuiceandturmericpowder.Stirorshakeverywell.
Putitbackoutsidefor2moredays,bringitin,andshake/stirwelleachnight.
Attheendofthesecondnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthe
Attheendofthesecondnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthemustardoilinasaucepanoverhighheatforapproximately5minutes.Removefromtheheat,letitcooltoroomtemperature,andpouroveryourveggie/spicemix.Stirwell.
Letitsitovernight,inside,atroomtemperatureandstarttasting1daylater.Theoilshouldn’tsmell“oily”whenthesearereadytoeat;itshouldbeinfusedwiththeflavorsofthespices.Itmaytakeupto3daysonthecountertofullyinfuse.
Oncethey’reready,useaspatulaorspoontoscrapeexcessspicemixturefromthesidesdownintothejarandstiragain.Storeintherefrigerator.
Yield:1quart(900g)
Resources
IngredientsAmazonwww.amazon.comRicebran(donotbuy“stabilized”),spices,specialtyingredientsH-Martwww.hmart.comGochugaru,otherkimchiingredientsKalustyan’swww.kalustyans.comSpices,mustardoil
MountainRoseHerbswww.mountainroseherbs.comSpices
PureFormulaswww.pureformulas.comRicebran(donotbuy“stabilized”)WorldSpiceMerchantswww.worldspice.comSpicesandspiceblends
VesselsandEquipmentFante’swww.fantes.comFidoandLeParfait,European-style,gasket-sealingjarsinavarietyofsizesFillmoreContainerwww.fillmorecontainer.comJarsofallsortsandreCAPlids
MidwestSupplieswww.midwestsupplies.comPHstrips,airlocksandbungs,food-gradeplasticbucketsMikiPalchickwww.mikipalchick.comHandmadewater-sealingcrocks
Handmadewater-sealingcrocks
OguskyCeramicswww.claycrocks.comHandcrafted,opencrocks
OhioStonewarewww.ohiocaststone.comOpencrocksinawidevarietyofsizesPotterybySandyDerwww.etsy.com/shop/PotteryBySandyDerPicklingweights
SarahKerstensarahkersten.com/fermentationjarHandmade,water-sealing,11/2-gallon(5.7L)crocksStoneCreekTradingwww.stonecreektrading.comEuropeanwater-sealingcrocksinavarietyofsizes,krautshreddersandpoundersTamarackStonewarewww.etsy.com/shop/TamarackStonewarePicklingweights
FermentationInformation(see“Bibliography”forfurtherreading)
CulturesforHealthBlogandNewsletterblog.culturesforhealth.com
NordicFoodLabwww.nordicfoodlab.org
Phickle(mywebsite)www.phickle.com
PickleBibliographyfbns.ncsu.edu/USDAARS/html/Fflbiblio1.htm
WildFermentationwww.wildfermentation.com
Appendix
SaltChartHowyousaltyourfermentsisamatteroftaste.Weighingismoreaccurate,butofcourse,yoursaltpreferencesmaychangefromonevegetabletothenext,andallsaltsarenotequallysalty.
Arangesomewherebetween2and5percentsaltbyweightisgenerallyusedfordirectlysaltingvegetables,andarangeof4to6percentiscommonforsaltbrines.Inpractice,therangefordirectsaltingcanvarywidely,fromnosaltatallto8percent(inedible,bymoststandards)forcaseswherepreservationisamatterofsurvivalovertaste.APPROXIMATEWEIGHTS/VOLUMEEQUIVALENTSOFDIFFERENTSALTTYPES
Measurement 1teaspoon 1tablespoon
Fine(Table)(g) 5to6 16to17
Fine(HigherMineral)(g) 7to8 21to23
Coarse(g) 6to7 17to20
Kosher(g) 6to7 17to19
Rock(g) 7to8 21to23
Flake(g) 3to4 12to13
APPROXIMATEDIRECTSALTPERCENTAGEBYVOLUMEANDWEIGHT
WeightofVegetable 1pound 1kilogram
2percent 1to2teaspoons(9g) 20g
2.5percent 11/2to2teaspoons(11g) 25g
2teaspoons(13.5g) 30g
3percent 2teaspoons(13.5g) 30g
4percent 1tablespoon(18g) 40g
5percent4teaspoons(22g)
50g
Multiplythegramweightofyourvegetablebythepercentageyouwant.So450g(1pound)ofcabbageat2percentwouldbe450×0.02=9gsalt.APPROXIMATEBRINESALTPERCENTAGEBYVOLUMEANDWEIGHT
Water 1cup(235ml) 1liter
4percent 1to2teaspoons(9g) 20g
5percent 11/2to2teaspoons(12g) 25g
6percent 2teaspoons(14g) 30g
7percent 1tablespoon(16g) 40g
Multiplymillilitersofwaterbythebrinepercentageyouwant.So235ml(1cup)ofwaterat4percentwouldbe235×0.04=9gsalt.
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Veldhuis,M.K.,J.L.Etchells,I.D.Jones,andO.Veerhoff.“NotesonCucumberSalting.”TheFruitProductsJournal20,no.11(1941):341–2.
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AcknowledgmentsItisn’tatallmelodramatictosaythatthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutthehelp,love,andsupportofsomany.Ihavenodoubtthatthisthankyoulistisincomplete.Toallwhohelped,whotestedrecipes,wholearnedthebasicsoffermentationjustforme,youhavemyeternalgratitude.Thankyouforstinkingupyourhomes!
Tomyagent,ClarePellino,Iwouldnothavewrittenthisbookwithoutyourencouragement.ThankyoufortheproddingandsupportIneededtoundertakethisprojectandforyourmadnegotiationskills.
Tomyeditor,AmandaWaddell,thankyousomuchfortheopportunitytowritethisbook!IamsogratefulthatIhadthechancetoworkwithyouandforallthethought,care,andeffortyouputintothisbook.Youradvocacytookthisbooktothenextlevel.
RenaeHaines,theprojectmasteroftheuniverse,thankyouforwranglingallthedetails,patientlyansweringmynoobquestions,andpullingthingstogetherwithspeedandpanache.
HeatherGodin,thankyouforyourartdirection,flexibility,andthetirelessworkthatyoudidtomakethisbookintoavisuallycohesiveandlovelydocumentofthesefoods.
KarenLevy,thanksfordoingthedetailedworkofcopy-editing.NomatterhowmanytimesIreadthismanuscript,Iwouldneverhavecaughtthemanytypos,omissions,andwonkybitsthatyoudid.
CourtneyApple,Iadorethephotosyoutook,andIwillalwaysbeimpressedthatyouwereabletomakemyfermentedfoodslookbothexactlyastheydidandluminouslybeautiful.Yourphotosmakethisbookspecial.
BarbaraBotting,youhaveanamazingtalent.Iamsogratefulforthewonderfulworkyoudidstylingthesephotos.Veryfewpeoplecanmakethingslookeffortlesslygorgeousthewayyoudo.
Dr.FredBreidt,thankyouforyourpatienceandforbeingsuchawillingandablepublicservant.Yourdecadesoftirelessresearchareappreciatedbymeandbysomanyotherfermentersaroundtheglobe.Foranyerrorsofinterpretation,Iamsorry.Foralltheknowledgeyouimparted,thankyou.
ToCarlyDoughertyofFood&Ferments,thankyouforbeingmyPhillyfermentationcompatriotandforgivingofyourlimitedentrepreneur’stimeso
freely.I’msogratefultoyouandDaveformakingagreatproductthatIcanproudlytellotherstobuy.
ToJeremyOgusky,thankyouforthetimeyouspentinterviewingwithmeand,ofcourse,forthelovelycrock.Itwillsitinaproudplaceonmytable,andIpromisetokeepitfilledwithbubblingthingswheneverpossible.Nextstop:FermentationNation!
ToSandorKatz,forbeingaperpetualsourceofinspirationthroughyourteachingandwriting.
ToWillStallwood,ofCipherPrime,foryourextremelyhelpfulfeedback.Youreyeisunparalleledandyourdesignguidanceultimatelyhelpedtomakethisbookbeautiful.
TothegentlemenofFlyclops:Jake,Parker,Dave,Jay,andJosh,yourextremeflexibilityallowedmethetimeandenergytocompletethisbook,andIwillbeforevergrateful.Thankyouforyourinterestandinvolvementandforyourvaluablefeedbackthroughouttheprocess.
TomyPhillyfoodladies(AlexisSiemons,AllysonKramer,JoleneHart,JoyManning,MarisaMcClellan,RobinShreeves,andTenayaDarlington),thankyousomuchforyourendlesssupport,encouragement,advice,andforcalmingmyfearswhenthatchamomileteajustwasn’tcuttingit!Youareallbrilliant,thoughtful,kind,andgiving,andIamsogratefulforourlittlecommunity.
ToCoreyandTashaFloydforhelpingmemakethefermentsforthephotoshoot.Idon’tknowhowIthoughtIcouldgetthatworkdonewithoutyou.Icouldnothave,anditwouldhavebeendisastrous.
Tomyparents,NancyandWaltFeifer,thankyouforraisingmetobeindependentandtopursuemyownpath,evenifithassometimesmeantthatIstressedyououtbyabandoninglucrative,corporategigsinfavoroftheunknown.
ToJakeO’Brien,mybeloved,yoursupport,kindness,hand-holding,love,understanding,anddishwashingabilitiesareunparalleled.TherearesomanythingsinmylifeIcouldnotandcannotdowithoutyou.Thiswasjustoneofthose.Thankyouforbeingbymysideinallthings.
Andfinally,tothePhicklereaders,withoutyou,Iwouldneverhavecontinuedpursuingthispassion,teachingclasses,andwritingaboutfermentation.Thesethingsmakemehappyandfulfilled,andI’meternallygratefultoyouforreadingandfermentingalongwithme.
AbouttheAuthorAmandaFeiferwritesaboutfoodfermentationofallkindsonherblog,phickle.com.Whenshe’snotconcoctingcrazyvatsofbubblythingsinthekitchenorrantingagainsttheuseofanti-bacterialsoaps,she’sdoingwhatshelovesmost:teachingpeopletomaketheirownfermentedfoods,whetherit’skimchi,koji,kefir,orkombucha.ShelivesinSouthPhillywithherhusband,Jake,andtheirrambunctiouspitbullpup,Laika.
Indexairlocks,28,145alcoholcontent,35AmericanSeoulKimchi,110apples.SeeKimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106ArtofFermentation,The(SandorElixKatz),150arugula.SeeCollardWraps,167Asianpears.SeeNabakKimchi,121AsianPickles(KarenSolomon),190AsparagusPickles,57Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78avocados.SeeCollardWraps,167
bacteriabotulism,13,14,34,42bubblingand,33cannedvegetablesand,35,42choppingand,40cleanlinessand,29cookingand,34harvestand,10healthand,11peelsand,15probiotics,11safetyof,12,14–15,34saltand,18,20sedimentand,31submersionand,24temperatureand,28,33,34,41washingand,15wildfermentationand,14
BalancedBrothBroth-PickledKohlrabi,184recipe,184
BánhMìPickles,51beetsBalancedBroth,184Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CuminBasilBeets,46DillyRootKraut,85EarlGreyFennelBeets,181GingerBeetKraut,91Kahmyeastand,145RandomPickleGenerator,48RedBeetKvass,144
bellpeppersAmericanSeoulKimchi,110ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CollardWraps,167MediterraneanKraut,87PintofPickledPeppers,59RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
Bittman,Mark,62Bois,Alex,88botulism,13,14,34,42Breidt,Fred,13brinecloudinessof,29,31herbsfor,46saltingcomparedto,17sedimentin,29,31spicesfor,46storage,21
broccoli.SeeNukadoko,191
brothBalancedBroth,184Broth-PickledKohlrabi,184
brusselssproutsChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62RandomPickleGenerator,48
bubbles,29,33,74Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148
cabbageAmericanSeoulKimchi,110Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78CabbageKvass,150CarrotCakeKraut,98CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CrockKimchi,170–171cutting,72–73DillyRootKraut,85EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105GingerBeetKraut,91HalfHeadKimchi,108–109Heat-Lover’sKraut,84KrautytheVampireSlayer,81less-than-perfectleaves,73,75massaging,73,91MediterraneanKraut,87MirepoixKraut,95NabakKimchi,121NewWorldRyeKraut,88Nukadoko,191NutsforKraut,89Pesto-Chi,122PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115
Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSteak,174selectingforkraut,72shelves,75SimplestSauerkraut,76–77StuffingKraut,80SuperSourCitrusKraut,96Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
cannellinibeans.SeeWhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179canning,42CarrotCakeKraut,98CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56carrotsBalancedBroth,184BánhMìPickles,51CarrotCakeKraut,98CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CucumberKimchi,118MirepoixKraut,95MoroccanCarrotKvass,154NabakKimchi,121PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RandomPickleGenerator,48Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSlaw,83VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
cashews.SeeNutsforKraut,89cauliflowerCurriedCauliflowerPickles,52CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106Nukadoko,191
RandomPickleGenerator,48CeleriacBeetKrautrecipe,179WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179
celeryCeleryKvass,151CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52MirepoixKraut,95RandomPickleGenerator,48StuffingKraut,80
celeryrootBalancedBroth,104CeleriacBeetKraut,179
Cheddarcheese.SeeMacandKimcheese,116CheUNoodleBarrestaurant,138Chioggiabeets.SeeBull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148chloramine,17ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82chopping,40,72,102ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpearsrecipe,68ThousandIslandDressing,137
CocktailOnionRingsDirtyGibson,66recipe,66ThousandIslandDressing,137
collardleavesCollardWraps,167PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115WholeLeafCollardGreens,164
condimentsEggplantPâté,137HotPepperFlakes,134HotSauce,133ThousandIslandDressing,137
WinterSquashHummus,138cornCornontheCob,173SummerCornSalsa,128
CrockKimchi,170–171crocksagesof,165CeleriacBeetKraut,179ClassicCukes,162ClayCrockswebsite,165cleaning,165CollardWraps,167CornontheCob,173CrockKimchi,170–171eatingfrom,161glaze,165krautand,73opencrocks,158–159saltfor,158SauerkrautSteak,174selecting,158,165storing,161terminology,165transferringtojars,161vitrification,165water-sealedcrocks,158weightsfor,160WholeLeafCollardGreens,164WholeOnions,168
cucumbersblossomends,69ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpears,68CucumberFennelKvass,153CucumberKimchi,118
NukaCukesandRadishes,192tipsandtricksfor,69
culturedfermentation,14CuminBasilBeetsrecipe,46ThousandIslandDressing,137
CurriedCauliflowerPicklesCurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52recipe,52
daikonBánhMìPickles,51CrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122RadishKimchi,119SenchaDaikonPickles,182Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
DillyRootKraut,85DirtyGibson,66Dougherty,Carly,145Dougherty,Dave,145
EarlGreyFennelBeets,181eggplantEggplantPâté,137MediterraneanKraut,87Raw-Tatouille,54
eggsCollardWraps,167SauerkrautPickledEggs,92
Englishcucumber
CucumberKimchi,118NukaCukesandRadishes,192
equipment,20–21,23,26–27EverydayBaechuKimchiMacandKimcheese,116recipe,104–105
FAQs,31–36FermentedTomatoSauce,136fetacheese.SeeMediterraneanKraut,87Food&Fermentscompany,145FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44
GarlicHoney,194GingerBeetKrautrecipe,91SauerkrautPickledEggs,92
gingerroot.SeeRandomPickleGenerator,48gochugaruCrockKimchi,170–171CucumberKimchi,118EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105GreenBeanKimchi,125HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103NabakKimchi,121PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RadishKimchi,119ShisoLeafKimchi,111VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
greenbeansChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82GreenBeanKimchi,125SpicedGreenBeans,181
greencabbageAva’sHotPinkKraut,78
discolorationand,32KrautytheVampireSlayer,81
Gruyèrecheese.SeeMacandKimcheese,116
habaneropeppers.SeeThai-Chi,107hakureiturnips.SeeMintyHakureiTurnips,55HalfHeadKimchi,108–109HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180health,11–12Heat-Lover’sKraut,84herbs,46HighStreetonMarketrestaurant,88Hisamatsu,Ikuko,194honey.SeeGarlicHoney,194hotpeppersAmericanSeoulKimchi,110BánhMìPickles,51CabbageKvass,150ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197Heat-Lover’sKraut,84HotPepperFlakes,134HotSauce,133Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSteak,174SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128Thai-Chi,107
HotSauceHotPepperFlakes,134recipe,133
HowtoCookEverything(MarkBittman),62
IndianHotPepperPickle,197IndianSunPickles
CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197introductionto,196
jalapeñopeppersBánhMìPickles,51Heat-Lover’sKraut,84Salsa-Chi,124SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128
jarscovering,26explosions,149fillcapacity,41,73krautand,73kvassand,142,149lidsfor,23,27selecting,20specialtyfermentationsystemsand,27–28submersionand,26–27weightsand,27venting,143
jicama.SeePickleMyJicama,49
Kahmyeast,145Katz,SandorEllixKatz,150kimchiAmericanSeoulKimchi,110choppingvegetablesfor,102commoningredients,103CrockKimchi,170–171CucumberKimchi,118EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105glovesfor,102GreenBeanKimchi,125HalfHeadKimchi,108–109
Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106MacandKimcheese,116NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RadishKimchi,119ricepaste,106Salsa-Chi,124salting,102ShisoLeafKimchi,111Thai-Chi,107timing,102VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
kombuNukadoko,191VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
krautAva’sHotPinkKraut,78bubbling,74cabbageselection,72cabbageshelves,75CarrotCakeKraut,98CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82cuttingcabbagefor,72–73DillyRootKraut,85fermentationconditions,74GingerBeetKraut,91Heat-Lover’sKraut,84KrautytheVampireSlayer,81MediterraneanKraut,87MirepoixKraut,95NewWorldRyeKraut,88NutsforKraut,89packingcabbagefor,73PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97
SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83seasoning,73SimplestSauerkraut,76–77StuffingKraut,80SuperSourCitrusKraut,96
KrautytheVampireSlayerrecipe,81SauerkrautSlaw,83
kvassairlocksfor,145Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148CabbageKvass,150CeleryKvass,151cloudiness,142CucumberFennelKvass,153jarsfor,142,149Kahmyeast,145LettuceKvass,150MoroccanCarrotKvass,154nameorigin,143RedBeetKvass,144spices,145SunnyHerbKvass,144timing,142,145venting,143,145WinterHerbKvass,147WoodsyGinandTonic,147
lemonsBull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97
lemonjuiceCarrotCardamomSunPickle,198EggplantPâté,137
HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197lemonpeelsAsparagusPickles,57CocktailOnionRings,66MoroccanCarrotKvass,154
lemonzestChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82Pesto-Chi,122PintofPickledPeppers,59SnappyPeaPickles,49SuperSourCitrusKraut,96
LettuceKvass,150limeleaves.SeeThai-Chi,107limepeel.SeeMoroccanCarrotKvass,154limezestSalsa-Chi,124SuperSourCitrusKraut,96
macadamianuts.SeeNutsforKraut,89MacandKimcheese,116MediterraneanKraut,87MintyHakureiTurnips,55MirepoixKraut,95Misodokobuilding,189MisoRhubarb,190MisoSunchokes,190
molds,30,31–32MoroccanCarrotKvass,154
NabakKimchi,121napacabbageCrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103
NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122Salsa-Chi,124Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
NetCostMarket,150NewWorldRyeKraut,88no-salt-addedfermentsBalancedBroth,184broth,178Broth-PickledKohlrabi,184CeleriacBeetKraut,179coconutwater,178EarlGreyFennelBeets,181HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180pHlevels,185safety,185SenchaDaikonPickles,182smellof,185SpicedGreenBeans,181TanninTea,182tea,178WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179
NukaCukesandRadishes,192Nukadokobuilding,191NukaCukesandRadishes,192
NutsforKraut,89NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62
odor,30,32,185Ogusky,Jeremy,165olives.SeeMediterraneanKraut,87orangepeelCucumberFennelKvass,153MoroccanCarrotKvass,154
orangezest.SeeSuperSourCitrusKraut,96
peanutbutter.SeeSauerkrautSatay,90pecans.SeeCarrotCakeKraut,98peels,51Pesto-Chi,122pHlevelsbotulismand,13crocksand,159eggshellsand,92GarlicHoney,194IndianSunPickles,196moldand,31–32no-salt-addedfermentsand,185readinessand,29,40,159safetyand,13,23,31–32,196testingsupplies,23
picklesAsparagusPickles,57BánhMìPickles,51cannedpickles,42CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpears,68CocktailOnionRings,66CuminBasilBeets,46CurriedCauliflowerPickles,52CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52DirtyGibson,66FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180IndianSunPickles,196jarvolume,41MintyHakureiTurnips,55
NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62PickleMyJicama,49PintofPickledPeppers,59RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54RosemaryRutabaga,60RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles,47SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SenchaDaikonPickles,182SnappyPeaPickles,49softness,63storing,42submersionof,40SweetPotatoFryNests,64–65tanninsfor,160temperaturesand,41–42timing,40WholeOnions,168ZucchiniBreadPickles,63
pistachios.SeeNutsforKraut,89PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97probiotics,shoppingfor,35Puchowitz,Ben,138pumpkin.SeePumpkinSpiceKimchi,115pumpkinseedsNutsforKraut,89WinterSquashHummus,138
Quick&EasyTsukemono(IkukoHisamatsu),194
radishesAmericanSeoulKimchi,110ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44NukaCukesandRadishes,192Nukadoko,191
RadishKimchi,119RandomPickleGenerator,48Salsa-Chi,124WinterHerbKvass,147
RadishKimchirecipe,119MacandKimcheese,116
raisinsCarrotCakeKraut,98MoroccanCarrotKvass,154
RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54RedBeetKvass,144redcabbageAmericanSeoulKimchi,110Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78CabbageKvass,150DillyRootKraut,85SauerkrautSteak,174
rhubarb.SeeMisoRhubarb,190RosemaryRutabaga,60rutabagaDillyRootKraut,85RosemaryRutabaga,60RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles,47
safetybotulism,13,14,34,42jarexplosions,149molds,30,31–32no-salt-addedferments,185odor,30,32,185pHlevels,13,23,31–32,196submersiontools,26
salsaSalsa-Chi,124
SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128TomatilloSalsa,131
saltbriningvs.salting,17fermentationand,18kimchiand,102measuring,18,20,158weighing,18,20,158
saltedshrimpCrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105introductionto,103
saucesFermentedTomatoSauce,136HotSauce,133
SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83SauerkrautSteak,174SenchaDaikonPickles,182ShisoLeafKimchi,111SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SimplestSauerkraut,76–77snappeasSauerkrautSlaw,83SnappyPeaPickles,49
Solomon,Karen,190SpicedGreenBeans,181spices,46squashRandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69WinterSquashHummus,138
sterility,29
StuffingKraut,80submersionimportanceof,23–24jarsand,26–27rulesof,24,26toolsfor,26–28weightsfor,160
SummerCornSalsa,128summersquashRandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69
sunchokes.SeeMisoSunchokes,190SunnyHerbKvass,144SuperSourCitrusKraut,96SweetPotatoFryNests,64–65
tannins,69,160,178TanninTea,182temperaturebacteriaand,28,33,34,41fermentationand,28,33,34,41–42
ThaichilepeppersSauerkrautSteak,174Thai-Chi,107
ThousandIslandDressingCollardWraps,167recipe,137
TomatilloSalsa,131tomatoesFermentedTomatoSauce,136Salsa-Chi,124SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130
tomatopaste.SeeSalsa-Chi,124troubleshooting,31–36turnips
CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82MintyHakureiTurnips,55Nukadoko,191
venting,143VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113
WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179WholeLeafCollardGreensCollardWraps,167recipe,164
WholeOnions,168wildfermentation,14WinterHerbKvassrecipe,147WoodsyGinandTonic,147
WinterSquashHummus,138WoodsyGinandTonic,147
zucchiniChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69ZucchiniBreadPickles,63
ToJake,ingratitudeforhisfermentyandreallifeloveandsupport.AndforAva,mayshegrowupinaworldfullofbubbly,
probioticacceptance.