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42
TAKINGthei r p lace
It seems surprising, but as recently as a generation ago, women
in Argentina were
kept at arms length by the wine industry. But today, as Amanda
Barnes writes, the
country is nurturing some of the brightest female winemaking
talent in the world
TWENTY YEARS ago, one was hard-pressed to find a female working
in thewine industry in Argentina, let alone afemale winemaker. But
today women aretaking their place in the sector and thisyears
Argentina Wine Awards boasted anall-female tasting panel, bringing
to light
the role that many of the so-called fairersex now play in the
industry.
This list looks at some of the femaletrailblazers in the
industry, in particularsome of the up-and-coming young
femalewinemakers who are making their markin Argentina.
SUSANA BALBOSusana Balbo is unquestionably one of themost
remarkable women in wine, notonly in Argentina. Head winemaker
andowner of Dominio del Plata, Balbo is atthe top of her game, but
reaching theseheights as a woman was not easy.
Susana Balbo
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Hardships began early for young Balbo,who had wanted to study
physics, butdue to the military dictatorship had topick a degree
closer to home, which inMendoza means winemaking.
Even the early 80s, Balbo wasnt theonly female in the class out
of 33classmates, 17 were women. She was,however, the only woman to
graduate,making her the first female winemaker inSouth America. She
puts the lowcompletion rate down to having to take alate night bus
(past the 10pm curfew),creating more vulnerability for womenduring
the tyrannical military regime.Life wasnt easy as the first female
in theprofession. I couldnt get a job inMendoza; I was rejected
from manyapplications because I was a woman, sheconfesses. It wasnt
until an opportunityarose in Salta that she got her first job in
awinery, partly because some of the hiringprocess was made by a
headhunting firmin Paris, France.
Her move to Salta was indeed fateful,and Balbo is now coined the
Queen ofTorronts for her work with Argentinasnative white variety
there. Having provedher deserving place in a mans
industry, she returned to Mendoza as areputable winemaker and
eventuallystarted her own company, aged 38.
Many women have joined her in therealms of winemaking but few
own awinery. Today it is much easier forwomen to have their place
in theindustry, she analyses. But the currentpolitical environment
makes it difficultfor young women to have their owncompany. They
should keep dreamingthough, I have great hopes that thepolitics of
the country will change soon.
So adamant is Balbo to see a change ofwind for women and
politics that she isnow running as a parliamentarycandidate in
Mendoza. With thepresidency of Wines of Argentina alreadyunder her
belt and a proven track recordof succeeding in the face of
adversity her ambitions may well be realised.
LAURA CATENAOne of the greatest spokespersons andambassadors for
Argentine wine abroad,Laura Catena splits her time between
SanFrancisco where she is a doctor, andMendoza where she works in
her familywinery, Catena Zapata. Author of VinoArgentino, 2014
president of the IWSC,international guest speaker
Catenasachievements are endless.
Although she might already beconsidered as reaching a par with
herindustrious father Nicolas Catena interms of promoting Argentine
wine, it isher work as a scientist that is mostremarkable. When she
started working atthe winery in 1995, there were fewwomen and
convincing a largely maleteam that she, a young female
graduate,knew better when it came to vineyard
research was a challenge. Onetime I asked our viticulturist
toshow me all the places where wewere doing research. At everyplace
he showed me a differenttrial, different altitudes, plantdensities,
pruning methods,varieties. Every time I asked himWhere are the
controls? but Isoon realised that there weren'tany. To me, one
couldnt call thisresearch, and I said that to ourviticulturalist.
He turned back tome with a big smile and said,
Laura, you should really dedicateyourself to marketing because
that iswhere we need the most help.
Instead, she founded the CatenaInstitute of Wine with the first
Malbecplant selection in 1995. Today ourinstitute does world-class
research whichis published in prominent internationaljournals like
The American Journal ofViticulture and Enology, The Journal of
FoodChemistry and the Journal of Phytochemistryamong others. And if
any winemaker orviticulturalist asks me about marketing
they know that the answer will be thebest marketing is to make
the best wine.
Catenas defiance and attention to detailnot only makes her a
standout woman inthe company, but a great migrator ofinternational
knowledge into Argentinaand a considerable communicator ofArgentina
to the outside world.
43
argentina: women in wine
>
Today it is much easier forwomen to have their place
in the industry
Laura Catena
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explain and make a masculine worldunderstand. Interpersonal
relationshipsare important and taking assertive
decisions can be confused withthe authoritarianism of
awoman.
It takes a strong woman toconvince an industry that shewears the
trousers. But Celestedoes it with grace.
44
GABRIELA CELESTEWhile female winemakers are growing innumber,
female wine consultants are stilla very rare breed. After meeting
theFrench consultant winemaker MichelRolland while working in
Trapiche in1996, Celeste began her internationaleducation in wine
and is now the righthand of Rolland as his partner at
theirconsultancy firm, EnoRolland. Thoughshe works under the
Rolland brand as aconsultant, Celeste has made a name forherself in
her own right.
Consulting for over 15 wineries acrossArgentina, her
well-respected reputationis synonymous with her tireless energyand
she is even working on the launch ofher own wine label Escarlata.
To workin the wine industry, considered theactivity of men, is a
challenge, admitsCeleste. While she sees the advantages of
men not viewing her as competition andbeing polite enough to let
her speak, thereare particular disadvantages as a femalewine
consultant. You are more exposedto criticism, which demands a
certainemotional intelligence, she remarks.When it comes to the
moment whereyou have to take decisions, it is difficult to
You are more exposed tocriticism, which demands a
certain emotional intelligence
argentina: women in wine
The appearance of more women on the winemaking scene might lead
one to therather simplistic conclusion: that women are responsible
for making Argentine Malbecmore feminine. This would be doing a
great disservice to all the male winemakers inArgentina, and also
generalising about the winemaking style of female oenologists.
Nevertheless, as Argentina becomes more worldly in taste and
experience, itsMalbec has seen a great diversity of expressions in
recent years: from moremasculine, meaty Malbecs, to more feminine,
ethereal and elegant Malbecs.
Instead of gender, the different styles of Malbec are
representative of different soilsand microclimates, changing
winemaking tendencies, and the different personaltastes and
experience of each maker. Often female winemakers make big and
boldwines, and undoubtedly many male winemakers are the source of
some of the mostelegant Malbecs being produced in Argentina right
now.
I think there is a Malbec for different occasions, I dont
believe in a Malbec fordifferent genders, Daniel Pi, Trapiche
The style of Malbec depends a lot on the personality and
sensitivity of thewinemaker, not on their gender, Matias
Riccitelli, Matias Riccitelli Wines
I know of many female winemakers who make very masculine
Malbecs! And thereare also male winemakers (perhaps few) who have a
lighter hand, AntonioMorescalchi, Altos las Hormigas
Malbec has found an elegance thanks to the respect given to the
terroir more thanbecause of gender Although without a doubt women
have added a bit ofsensitivity, Mariana Onofri, sommelier, The
Vines of Mendoza
Have women feminised Malbec?
Gabriela Celeste
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45
ANDREA MARCHIORIHaving grown up running around herfathers
vineyard in Lujan de Cuyo,Andrea Marchioris choice of career was
anatural one. Completing her winemakingdegree as the only woman in
the class,she headed to Sonoma in the US with herhusband and fellow
winemaker, LuisBarraud. There they met flyingwinemaker Paul Hobbs
and whileoverseas began talks about a partnershipback in her
hometown of Mendoza. Now,with Hobbs and Barraud, Marchiorifronts a
successful winery Via Cobos where you can find some of
Argentinasmost acclaimed and expensive wines.
Having grown from 1,500 cases to100,000 cases in just over a
decade (andlaunched a side project with her
husband,Marchiori-Barraud), Marchiori knows athing or two about
making a winebusiness successful. And while she isadamant that her
experience has beenprivileged for working in environmentswhere
women were accepted as equals,she admits there were challenges to
face.My whole career has always been withmen, she reflects over the
last 20 years.When I started working in a winery as ayoung woman,
some men found it
shocking to have a woman telling themwhat to do. You always have
to keep inmind that you are a woman and that youare there because
you have a capacity.And once men understand that, theyrespect you
too.
In Argentina Marchiori has proved hercapacity as a woman, and a
winemaker.
LAURA PRINCIPIANO, Today Bodega Zuccardi is one of the
mostexciting operations in Argentina. A largefamily winery with
young gunwinemaker Sebastian Zuccardi at its head,it has brought
forward innovations,finesse and has just opened a landmarknew
winery in the Uco Valley. Behindevery great captain there is a
greatskipper, and the skipper of Zuccardisvessel is a woman Laura
Principiano.
Plucked straight out of university to joinZuccardi in the
winerys experimentationlab, Principiano feels blessed to havelanded
a great job early on in her career.Im very privileged to work in
acompany with a family that takesimportance in people and not in
theirgender, she comments. Althoughfortunate, Principiano is a hard
workerand has been instrumental in the progress
argentina: women in wine
of Zuccardis style and criticalacknowledgements. Her work in
thedevelopment and experimentation labhave led her to take charge
along withSebastian in the production of thewinerys top wines.
Laura is much morethan an agronomist or winemaker, herperception
and passion for wine transpassthe technical barrier, says
Zuccardi.
I find it difficult to think of what wewould be doing without
her. Wine needsmore people like Laura she isundoubtedly one of the
references ofArgentina. In this case, Principianoproves that the
right-hand-man can bejust as deservedly a woman.
>
Andrea Marchiori
Laura Principiano
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Antoln has been significant in thedevelopment of the brand and
inparticular surprised many with her takeon Torronts. I always saw
thatTorronts was very nice in the nose but inthe mouth it was a
little light for me, so in2005 I decided to do some barrels
withTorrents and we continue doing it everyyear, she says about her
partially oakedexpression which bucks the trend for thisusually
lightly styled variety.
Stepping into winemaking as a womanwas no challenge for Antoln,
who madeher first wine with her father at 15 yearsold; the greater
challenge has beenmanaging motherhood and a full timejob, which she
does with aplomb.
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ANDREA MUFFATOComing into winemaking after havingfour children,
Muffato jugglesmotherhood with her growing career asthe second
winemaker for Zorzal andhead winemaker for the family wineryGen del
Alma. Being a winemaker and amother of four children is
complicated!But winemaking is a lifestyle for us as afamily, and
with Gen del Alma we get tolive our dreams and make these wines,she
says.
Muffato, like her brothers-in-law,winemakers Matias and Juan
PabloMichelini, and husband GerardoMichelini, is a fan of a leaner,
fresher styleof wine with high acidity and morenatural winemaking
methods. Her wines
focus heavily on playful co-fermentations,like, for example, Ji
Ji Ji: a slightlymadcap carbonic co-fermentation ofMalbec and Pinot
Noir.
Muffato is one of the most daring femalewinemakers at the
moment. Her plan totake the whole family, including her 18-year-old
son and protg, to Spain for aharvest this year, proves that you
canjuggle winemaking and family life, andhave fun doing it.
VALERIA ANTOLNHailing from a winemaking family, itwasnt a
surprise to Antolns father,himself a renowned sparkling
wineproducer, that she wanted to studyagronomy and winemaking.
What
might have been somewhatsurprising is that her femalecousin and
younger sister soon followed suit.
After working in working atVia Cobos, Antoln settled intoa full
time role in 2003 with hercurrent employer, Piatelli, whereshe
climbed her way to becomehead winemaker for both theirMendoza and
Cafayate wineries.
argentina: women in wine
I find it difficult to think ofwhat we would be doing
without her. Wine needs morepeople like Laura
Andrea Muffato
Valeria Antoln
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PAULA BORGOHead winemaker for Spanish-ownedBodega Septima, Paula
Borgo isresponsible for the still and sparklingwine production of
one of the biggerwineries in Mendoza.
Her path in the industry also beganthrough family: My
relationship withwine is due to my father, he is anagronomist that
is very well connected tothe sector, says Borgo. As a young
girl,the countryside, the vineyards and wineaccompanied me through
to myadolescence. I have many happymemories with a glass of wine in
myhand, and then the passion transformedinto an obsession, a study,
a quest forperfection, and lots and lots of work!Nowadays Borgo
travels around thecontinent and further afield as not onlythe
winemaker for Septima, but a femalespokesperson for the wine
industry.
PAULA GONZALEZOne of the youngest female winemakersin the
profession, 25-year-old PaulaGonzalez is second winemaker at
BodegaCasarena in Lujn de Cuyo. Workingunder head winemaker
Bernardo BossiBonilla, Gonzalez has played a hand inthe development
and launch of theirlatest DNA range and single vineyardrange. While
Malbec is still the flagship ofthe winery, it is a different
variety that isthe apple in Gonzalezs eye: Malbec isone of the most
important varieties for us,but I think Cabernet Franc is one that
is
going to explode, she predicts.With an early start to her career
as a
winemaker and under the guidance of anexperienced team, like the
lesserdiscovered varieties of Argentina,Gonzalez is one of the yet
undiscoverednew generation of female winemakers thatwill
undoubtedly make an impression inthe future of Argentine wine.
db
Paula Gonzalez
There are many families with daughters who want to work, and
because familywineries and vineyards are such a big part of the
industry it is inevitable that therewill be more women working in
every aspect of winemaking, says Laura Catena,herself the daughter
of one of Argentinas most renowned vignerons Nicolas Catena.The
final spot on our list of women in wine is dedicated to the many
women who aremaking the industry what it is today.
Among the female winemakers and agronomists to watch are: Lorena
Mulet(Cruzat), Carola Tizio (Vicentin), Soledad Vargas (La Anita),
Estela Perinetti (LUCA),Silvia Corti (Argento), Romina Carparelli
(Margot), Celia Lopez (Navaro Correas),Victoria Pons (Melipal),
Pamela Alfonso (Altavista), and Victoria Prandina (Trivento).
Of course, for all the daughters moving into the industry as
career-women, theindustry would never have developed to such an
extent if it werent for thededicated wives and mothers too, many of
whom have not only supported theirhusbands in a gruelling and
time-consuming career, but raised a family that respectand admire
their wine heritage.
Women also occupy some of the top sommelier and educator
positions inArgentina, notably including Marina Beltrame (the first
female sommelier inArgentina, and founder of Escuela Argentina de
Sommelier) and Paz Levinson(currently Best Sommelier of the
Americas). Wine is no longer the realm of onlymen in Argentina.
Women are an increasingly integral part in the offices, the
salesrooms, the restaurants, the laboratory, the winery, and the
field.
Other women in the industry
Paula Borgo
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