)DVKLRQLQJ &RVPRSROLWDQ &LWL]HQVKLS 7UDQVQDWLRQDO *D]HV DQG WKH 3URGXFWLRQ RI 5RPDQFH LQ $VLDQ$PHULFDQ %ULGDO 3KRWRJUDSK\ Nhi T. Lieu Journal of Asian American Studies, Volume 17, Number 2, June 2014, pp. 133-160 (Article) Published by The Johns Hopkins University Press DOI: 10.1353/jaas.2014.0017 For additional information about this article Access provided by The University Of Texas at Austin, General Libraries (27 Jun 2014 01:53 GMT) http://muse.jhu.edu/journals/jaas/summary/v017/17.2.lieu.html
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Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship: Transnational Gazes and the Production of Romance in Asian/American Bridal Photography
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F h n n p l t n t z n h p: Tr n n t n lz nd th Pr d t n f R n n n r nBr d l Ph t r phNhi T. Lieu
Journal of Asian American Studies, Volume 17, Number 2, June 2014,pp. 133-160 (Article)
Published by The Johns Hopkins University PressDOI: 10.1353/jaas.2014.0017
For additional information about this article
Access provided by The University Of Texas at Austin, General Libraries (27 Jun 2014 01:53 GMT)
Part of a seventy-one-billion-dollar industry, wedding businesses thrive
even as the public continues to debate the viability of marriage while
facing uncertain economic times.1 The explosive rise of the wedding
culture in the twenty-first century, evidenced by popular bridal reality
television shows such as A Wedding Story, Bridezillas, and Say Yes to the
Dress (all airing and rerunning between 1996 and the present), urges
women to have ever more extravagant weddings, and many of them
acquiesce to those societal pressures. With dreamlike qualities, modern
weddings evoke romance, allure, fashion, style, and glamour. Even when
the intention is to achieve a modest style of simple elegance, it is not
uncommon to pay an outrageously high price tag—an average amount of
twenty-eight to thirty thousand dollars—in order for the bridal body to
become the site of lavish attention commanding gazes from near and far.2
Like most Americans, when a bride who identifies herself as Asian or
Asian American weds, she goes through this similarly extensive process
of imagining, planning, and realizing those costly romantic fantasies.3
Despite the rising social, cultural, and economic status of Asians in the
United States, the mainstream bridal market initially did not actively seek
to address their needs, nor did merchants realize that the multiple cultural
rites ethnic brides are expected to fulfill would yield such tremendous
profit. All this began to change by the early 1990s, owing largely to im-
migrant entrepreneurs from East Asia, mainly Hong Kong and Taiwan,
134 • JAAS • 17:2
who developed a niche market in the United States to provide a multitude
of services for those wishing to wed with ethnic and cultural flair.4 Small
bridal shops sprouted, giving rise to the informal but popularly known
destination called the “Asian Bridal District,” or, to insiders, “bridal row.”
With the congregation of the bridal business in one section of the South-
ern California suburb Temple City, it may appear as if owners made a
concerted effort to rebuild the bridal district as if it were elsewhere in
Asia. Nevertheless, the pattern of ethnic enclave formation indicates that
these shops coincidentally emerged as a result of immigrants imagining
these spaces as such. Consequently, resembling the famous bridal district
in Taiwan featured in Bonnie Adrian’s compelling study about gender and
Asian modernity, these shops make available a myriad of traditional ethnic
wedding attire and accessories from various Asian (mainly East Asian)
nations.5 The shops that line Temple City’s main street offer dreams and
fantasies with fashion and style makeovers, photography, videography,
attire rentals, and much more. For over two decades, Asian bridal shops,
owned and operated by mainly immigrant entrepreneurs and now their
children, have provided more than clothing that symbolizes culture and
ethnicity; they have also sold bourgeois images of wealth and fantasies of
romantic love in the form of hair and makeup makeovers for studio and
fashion photography. Getting married began to take on new meanings that
involved undergoing ethnic, aesthetic, and class transformations for both
bride and groom in an increasingly image-driven industry.
This article closely examines bridal makeovers, the visual produc-
tion of bodily transformations that take place with these practices, and
the documentation of these transformations through the aesthetics of
bridal photography. I situate these embodied practices at a juncture in
globalization in which transnational movements of people, culture, and
capital throughout the Pacific Rim are not unilateral but multilateral. In
particular, bridal photography performs three main intertwining func-
tions. First, as visual records, wedding photographs naturalize gender,
emphasizing the requisite youth and beauty of the bridal body. Second,
while the collection of photos often focuses on the performance of eth-
nicity, fashion photography taken prior to the actual wedding functions
simultaneously to demystify race. It does so by incorporating the subjects
135Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
into narratives of heterosexual romance that deemphasize ethnic mark-
ers. Third, in creating these images, Asians and Asian Americans fashion
themselves as cosmopolitan, global bodies able to traverse class, race, and
nation through their participation in consumer capitalism. In theorizing
the affective techniques of racial representations in visual culture, Y. Anu
Saraswati argues that whiteness operates virtually and transnationally to
uphold a sense of cosmopolitanism.6 This concept of “cosmopolitan white-
ness” provides a helpful tool for thinking about the aspirational nature of
bridal photography as it visually secures Asian Americans as middle-class
subjects capable of navigating consumption and reproduction. Neverthe-
less, that the photographs may be open to multiple readings indicates that
cosmopolitan whiteness can never be complete in fulfilling the romance
of the subjects’ desired status.
My analysis builds on Bonnie Adrian’s brilliantly detailed ethno-
graphic study of Taiwan’s bridal industry. In Framing the Bride: Global-
izing Beauty and Romance in Taiwan’s Bridal Industry, Adrian establishes
that as the Taiwanese people emerge onto the world stage they look to the
West for inspiration to construct themselves as modern subjects. While
Adrian’s work provides foundational analyses of the way gender and wed-
ding photography inform each other, my own research demonstrates that
immigrants from Asia and their children look to their homelands for what
they believe to be authentic expressions of culture. I suggest here that flows
of culture along with capital are multidirectional. Asian immigrants and
Asian Americans often look to Asia to authenticate an important event
in their lives—their wedding day. The wedding day represents not only
a rite of passage but also an event that compels those involved to seek
“tradition” and “culture.” This day marks an extension of filial obliga-
tions and as such encourages the performance of ethnicity. Documented
through the medium of photography, the marriage ceremony itself allows
a couple to enact cultural rites and empowers them to emerge as privileged
subjects of the state. Thus, they are not just performing “ethnicity” or
“authenticity,” they are performing citizenship as well. While some Asian
Americans blend and mix both “Western” and “Eastern” nuptial practices,
many—particularly brides—turn to the homeland in search of authentic-
ity. In fulfilling the wishes of their customers, the Asian immigrant bridal
136 • JAAS • 17:2
industry has correspondingly sought to look “back” to East and Southeast
Asia to reinforce this sense of “traditional” wedding practice. In what fol-
lows, I problematize the gaze between the West and the East as well as the
homeland and the diaspora by examining the embodied practice of bridal
photography to propose that technology enables the imagining of social
mobility while visual culture produces aspirational, romantic, and utopian
images of transcendence for Asians and Asian Americans.
Background and Methodology
I grew up in Southern California witnessing firsthand much of the early
development of the niche bridal industry. As members of my multiethnic
immigrant family married and participated in these cultural practices
on both the Chinese and Vietnamese sides, I collected memories often in
the form of visual representations of bridal bliss and beauty created by
my relatives in collaboration with the wedding experts. I saw the shops
grow, expand, and shrink according to supply, demand, fashion trends,
and economic imperatives. In the early 1990s, when the practice of bridal
photography began to gain in popularity, it was my parents’ generation
that fueled the businesses. Bridal photography was not only for young
couples starting a new life together. My parents, my aunts and uncles,
and a number of other immigrant couples in their circle of friends and
coworkers had their wedding photos taken in moderately sized bridal
photography studios. They cited a number of reasons for investing their
hard-earned money on having their wedding albums updated. Most often,
though, they wanted to create new memories of their day of matrimony
because (1) they were unable to afford studio pictures when they actually
got married, or their wedding photos were lost during their migration;
(2) they now were able to have new documentation of their special day
as a couple because wedding photos taken in the homeland often focused
on family and community, not necessarily the couple; or (3) they tacitly
understood that the actual commitment to taking these photos was akin
to renewing their vows. Despite having been married for years, many
wives were able to persuade their husbands to spend valuable time at a
photo studio. Given this rare opportunity to (re-)create their wedding
day through visual imagery, many couples participated—albeit under
137Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
the direction of the photographer—in producing an idealized version of
their romance through bridal photography. Although 35mm or 110 pho-
tographic film was the primary medium at this time, the married couples
eagerly underwent superficial transformations to produce new images of
their wedding day. New makeup techniques, filtered camera lenses, heavy
retouching, and photographic lighting allowed the couples, at the time in
their mid- to late thirties, to achieve a youthful appearance in the pictures.
The new wedding albums would be passed on to their friends and family
to see, their new images kept for generations to come.
As the first-generation immigrants have aged, the bridal photography
studios now offer “family portraits” that were rarely advertised when the
industry began to take off in the 1990s. The services are now aimed toward
their children and even grandchildren. While bridal row in Temple City
struggles during difficult economic times, it is currently undergoing a
revival due to the demand of the younger generation for more elaborate
weddings. A few of the studios have endured longer than others due to
reputation and quality. Others have closed permanently. This is a result of
both the economic downturn as well as the public outcry among citizens to
stop issuing business licenses to bridal shops and other racially motivated
incidents that occurred in the early 2000s.7
I gathered my data during two intensive weeks of observation and
oral history interviews with a handful of shop owners and photographers
in 2010, and I communicated with them via email. They also allowed me
to examine and analyze their photographs closely, as well as images they
posted on their company websites and social media. Some of the pho-
tographers and studio managers welcomed me as a researcher, revealing
their trials and tribulations working in a demanding industry, while others
refused to share their information and protected their privacy and that
of their business. Either way, the businesses welcomed anyone with an
engagement ring seeking to be transformed and immortalized through
the art of bridal photography.
historicizing the Bridal industry and the nuptials of asian aMericans
In her thorough study of the history of the bridal industry in the United
States, Vicki Howard found that it was not until the last quarter of the
138 • JAAS • 17:2
nineteenth century that weddings became a consumer-oriented institu-
tion. With a wealth of material evidence linking weddings to advertising
and consumer rites, Howard explains that the bridal industry increasingly
entered the mass market throughout the twentieth century. By the twenty-
first century, the niche bridal market had evolved into a multibillion-dollar
industry capitalizing on the long-standing desire for the “traditional
wedding.”8 Howard relies on Eric Hobsbawm’s classic formulation of
“invented traditions” to anchor her argument about the market’s creation
and sustenance of the notion of the “traditional wedding.”9 In the case
of the immigrants in my study, the enactment of “traditional” nuptials
stems from the simultaneous invention of new traditions as well as a
search for authenticity from the homeland that occurs both in memory
and in contemporaneous time. Other scholars such as Cele C. Otnes and
Elizabeth H. Pleck have shown that extravagant American weddings are a
direct result of the connection between ritual and consumption.10 Thus,
it is not surprising that multiple beneficiaries—both corporate and other
enterprising entities—are invested in the metastasizing of weddings. While
these notable studies of standard American wedding practices connect the
ritualistic and ceremonial to the mass market, few explore the important
role that ethnicity plays in matrimonial rituals or the relationship between
the commodification of ethnic identity and the dominant mass market.
My work locates immigrant Asian and Asian American matrimonial
practices amid larger narratives of globalization and migration as they
shape the formation of ethnic identity in the United States.11 Specifically,
I contend that market opportunities did not begin to be available until the
mid-1990s as globalization forces collided with technological advances in
photography and a heightened interest in wedding culture. The flowering
of the Pacific Rim economies instigated an increased flow of commodities
and images.12 Through popular culture such as magazines, satellite televi-
sion, video, and technological sources of information, exchanges between
individuals and families from Asia began circulating in the United States,
creating an aesthetic of ethnic difference that appealed to younger Asian
Americans. The acceptance of Asian chic in the American imagination
also enhanced the construction of “Asian cool” among youth. Images
generated from bridal photography reflected both Asian global moder-
139Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
nity and its transnational links to the diaspora and the homeland. The
professional photographer practicing her or his craft in the United States
often possessed either informal or formal training in Asian cultural and
aesthetic practices, yet that same photographer always displayed a keen
sense of awareness of American popular culture and the narratives those
images evoked in her or his work. Understanding the flow and circulation
of images between Asia and the United States enabled the conditions for
a successful career in bridal photography.
This highly glamorized form of bridal photography gained popularity
not because it replicated “Asian” glamour but because the images being
produced between the photographer and the couple aligned with the glo-
balization of American celebrity culture and the glamorization of celebrity
nuptials in the pages of star-focused fashion magazines such as InStyle. The
end product of the photography sessions was a colossal keepsake photo
album for the couple to keep for their home and a smaller sharing album
to be distributed among relatives, family members, and the couple’s social
circles. In the early 1990s, one trend that pervaded was the framing of the
bride or the couple within larger English text to look as if they were on the
cover of a magazine.13 It is now more common for the images to resemble
a slick, high-fashion photo spread. I offer close readings of this genre of
fashion bridal photography toward the end of the essay, but please refer
to Figure 1 as an example of how couples increasingly prefer to pose in
such images suggestive of a grander lifestyle.
The practice of image sharing coincided with the beginnings of
the proliferation of websites devoted to the bridal industry. Perhaps the
best-known company to rely on cyberspace for these potentially lucrative
exchanges was The Knot, an e-commerce-based start-up devoted to wed-
dings and all things bridal that catered to those seeking traditional and
nontraditional ways to “tie the knot.” An Asian American entrepreneur,
David Liu, and his Anglo-American wife, Carley Roney, started The Knot
when they noticed that the bridal industry at the time failed to accom-
modate couples that were entering a mix-raced, multicultural union like
themselves. In the midst of preparing for their nuptials, they noticed that
mainstream publications such as Brides and its sister publications Modern
Bride and Elegant Bride only advised women to plan for excessive and lush
140 • JAAS • 17:2
traditional weddings.14 Because the American bridal industry dictated
most wedding trends before the mid-1990s, anyone seeking simplicity or
alternative visions beyond the lavish would not find them. In her book The
Substance of Style, Virginia Postrel suggests that the postindustrial 1990s
gave rise to an aesthetic value that cultivated new tastes for design that
appealed to the senses. The new aesthetics, she explains, “shows rather than
tells, delights rather than instructs. The effects are immediate, perceptual,
and emotional. They are not cognitive, although we may analyze them
after the fact.”15 I trace the rise of The Knot brand and its current media
empire in connection with Asian American bridal photography and chang-
ing aesthetics of wedding practices in the 1990s because the company not
only played a key role in changing American perceptions about weddings,
but also facilitated new ways for ethnic and mixed couples to invent new
traditions in the United States.
With a winning formula for success, The Knot launched spin-off
websites devoted to a contemporary, modern lifestyle, such as The Nest
(home decorating) and The Bump (pregnancy and baby). In May 2011,
The Knot expanded its market overseas to China (Ijie.com), serving ten
Figure 1. Courtesy of Henry Wang Photography.
141Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
million couples seeking to wed with over six hundred local vendors and
an online community to help plan. Riding on the popularity of style in-
spirations from celebrities in the pages of fashion and celebrity lifestyle
magazines, The Knot carved out a niche (now transnational) market in
redefining life in the twenty-first century.16 As far as ecommerce went,
The Knot was certainly a leader. However, many others followed after the
digital revolution in bridal photography.
Bridal fashion’s transnational Markets
The parallel commercial development of Asian bridal practices with the
alternative mainstream American bridal industry allowed Asian immi-
grants and Asian Americans to seek ways to celebrate their wedding day
by looking to their respective homeland cultures. However, the circuitous
path toward Asia involved a number of informal transnational economies.
Asia provided not only material goods but also a source of labor and
endless creative design ideas. In order to stay current and competitive,
vendors from Temple City traveled to Asia several times a year to buy
new merchandise, to observe new trends, and even to outsource the labor
and materials for the production of wedding garments. This included
traditional costumes as well as white wedding dresses that were deemed
fashionable in the metropolitan cities of Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Vietnam.
In The Beautiful Generation, Thuy Linh Tu investigates the simulta-
neously fraught yet enabling relationship between the garment industry
and the Asian American fashion designers who have benefited through
their “familial” ties with that industry.17 Without a doubt, Asian American
designers’ recognition and embrace of fashion have worked synergisti-
cally to bolster and fortify the overwhelming success of bridal couture
designers Vera Wang and Monique Lhuillier. The fondness for their gowns
by celebrities, elites, and fashionable women all over the world reveals a
startling tension between fashion and desire that remains unresolved,
but also reflects the positioning of Asian Americans and the niche im-
migrant bridal industry in the United States. Top bridal gown designers
create and project fashion and style through their products, but the price
points of these couture gowns make them beyond the reach of most
brides. This is where the niche Asian bridal industry enters the picture
142 • JAAS • 17:2
to facilitate the realization of fantasy for Asian American women. The
rising costs of weddings have made it more acceptable to rent gowns in
mainstream America, a practice that has been common in Asia.18 Brides
from nations in East and Southeast Asia have borrowed bridal attire for
generations, and Asian bridal shops made it acceptable, even customary,
for immigrants to continue this practice. The shopkeepers not only stock
dresses imported from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and other fashionable urban
centers in Asia but also work with seamstresses in Los Angeles’s garment
district to create custom gowns for brides designing their own or copied
versions of designer gowns. Bridal shop owners keep up with the latest
trends in fashion as well as photography by attending trade shows in Asia
and the United States.19
By the 1990s, the dearth of bridal photography services for Asian
immigrants along with the increased culture of bridal glamour in the
United States, compelled immigrant entrepreneurs—many of whom had
careers in Asia as photographers and makeup artists—to seize the eco-
nomic potential for services solely devoted to weddings. More important,
capitalizing on their own knowledge and skills in the bridal industry, they
spearheaded and facilitated the cultural turn back to the homeland.20
Bridal photography practices from Asia began influencing the aesthetics
and desires of Asian American couples. With this embrace of homeland
culture, photographs became an important means to record a couple’s
life-changing event.
photographic practices Beyond the Quotidian
Premised upon the need to revel in life’s significant moments, particularly
through the purchase of certain commodities that animate those moments,
The Knot, through its success, provided a model for smaller immigrant
bridal shops that began to inform their clientele on the importance of
embracing the photographic process. Photography not only became an
inviting technology with which to capture precious life events but also
provided a vehicle for staging aspirational identities. As material objects
that record and inscribe the subjects within its frames, photographs carry
and evoke multiple valences. Tracing the technological, aesthetic, and
ideological functions of photography from the nineteenth through the
143Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
twentieth centuries, the works of scholars such as Laura Wexler, Shawn
Michelle Smith, and Anna Pegler-Gordon powerfully illustrate that pho-
tographic practices are not politically neutral in that they intervene in
intersecting discourses that unveil the complex nature of identity, race,
gender, class, and nation.21 Moreover, the discursive and visual properties
of photographic archives have functioned historically to codify the mean-
ings of American identity through narratives of national belonging and
exclusion. Following the theoretical framework of Smith, who studied how
nineteenth-century middle-class Americans “utilized visual conceptions of
identity to claim a gendered and racialized privilege,” I argue that modern
contemporary photography serves similar purposes of establishing social
and moral boundaries.22 Because photographs are visual and can be seen,
shared, and circulated by others, they enter the realm of public and political
discourses, or what Nigel Thrift calls “institutions of public intimacy.”23
As such, bridal photographs can be read as intimate acts of romance be-
tween couples that momentarily capture and display the consummation
of marital relationships. Nevertheless, the actual production of wedding
photographs simultaneously enlists the couple in creating visual images
while demanding the photographer’s presence to translate and sometimes
direct those moments of intimacy. The images work to reaffirm the couple’s
commitment to each other but also function to legitimate their new status
as married citizens to themselves and before intersecting publics—their
families, their surrounding communities, and other social institutions.
Although the eye of the photographer mediates the image captured
within the boundaries of the photographic frame, the subject can perform
and create alternative identities and embody a different interiority for
those who would view their images.24 Claiming the importance of visual
culture in identity formation, the Modern Girl Around the World Re-
search Group asserts, “Visuality was important to the self-representation
of all women (and men) who considered themselves ‘modern.’ Since
the nineteenth century, women had used photography along with older
media such as painting, drawing, and literary representations of female
spectacle and performance to stage the self.”25 This public presentation
of the self may be grounded in reality, but it is often built on fantasies,
desires, and aspirations. Embracing the photographic process itself forges
144 • JAAS • 17:2
a sense of belonging for the subjects within the frames of the image. While
bridal photographs have been produced locally and grounded within the
geographies of Southern California or wherever they were taken, Asian
American subjects often emphasize a cosmopolitan identity, particularly
through the staging, setting, and configuration of the couple. For example,
the couple in Figure 1 is posed in front of a private jet and shiny bright-red
Ferrari. The vehicles featured here are no ordinary means of transport but
luxurious, ostentatious, fast machines that give the newly wedded couple
immediate access to the world. It is unclear whether these extravagant
objects actually belong to them, but the married couple is embedded in a
scene that is suggestive of a grand, opulent mode of living. Moreover, the
image invokes a lavish globe-trotting lifestyle of overseas Asians possess-
ing flexible citizenship.26
photography and the production of “roMance”
Traversing the realms of the private and the public, visual images produced
to capture marriage bring into focus the struggle for social meaning about
citizenship, gender, and class. As bridal photography practices standardize
over time, and as visual scripts and aesthetic compositions form semiotic
patterns, it becomes possible to interpret how photographs animate certain
narratives about the subjects. Starting with the last decades of the twentieth
century, modern photography, particularly as it was transformed by the
digital age, became a welcome advanced technological tool for document-
ing everything related to the formation of the “family”—from the initial
engagement well into the life of the marriage, such as the experience of
maternity, babies’ firsts, and the celebration of the blissful unit. Reflect-
ing on photography and life experience, Hubert Damisch remarks, “The
photographic image does not belong to the natural world. It is a product
of human labor, a cultural object whose being—in the phenomenologi-
cal sense of the term—cannot be dissociated precisely from its historical
meaning and from the necessarily datable project in which it originates.”27
My own assessment of modern bridal photography expands upon Da-
misch’s thoughts about phenomenology to argue that the need to fulfill
social expectations influences the ways in which photographs are developed
145Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
and produced. It has become very common for a young man to contact
a professional photographer to capture “the proposal” as these moments
are increasingly public spectacles.28 The newly engaged couple then relies
on a professional photographer to capture the changing nature of their
courtship through engagement photos (see Figures 2 and 3 as examples
of this practice). While some couples choose to take photos in settings
where they met or spend time together, such as the couple in Figure 2,
a number of these photographs are taken at places of pleasure and con-
sumption, such as in a sports car, at an outdoor shopping mall, or, as seen
in Figure 3, in front of a Tiffany & Co. storefront. Here, as landmarks of
accomplishment and wealth (or the potential of wealth and happiness),
these settings prime the couple for a bright future of matrimony. Figure
3 shows a causally dressed couple, posed in front of the classic American
commercial establishment of love and romance, sealing their love with
a kiss. The social pressure to spend unrestrained amounts of money to
show one’s love with the purchase of an exorbitantly priced engagement
ring obliges even more demands for an extravagant wedding to come.
As the couple plans for their wedding day, the series of casual photo-
graphs are followed by a more formal prewedding fashion photo session
where they “practice” getting their pictures taken. These photo sessions,
which can take place in a studio or outdoors, represent the opportunity
for the couple to enact their vision of romance and love, unencumbered
by the rites and rituals expected of them on their wedding day (see Fig-
ure 4). These images, along with the engagement photos, will be shared
proudly with family and friends on the wedding day itself. Oftentimes, a
photograph of the couple from this prewedding session will be enlarged
into a life-sized portrait and boldly displayed at the wedding reception.
Of all the photographic practices, the wedding day pictures are the only
ones that include the couple’s extended community—their families and
friends. Thus, the couple is engaged in producing images of themselves
in multiple contexts and settings before they are formally recognized as a
married couple. The intent behind creating these romantic photographs is
to capture the happiness of the couple suspended in time. When browsing
through the online archive of Los Angeles-based Henry Wang’s photog-
raphy, for example, viewers can see a range of styles emerge to reflect the
146 • JAAS • 17:2
Figure 2. Courtesy of Henry Wang Photography.
Figure 3. Courtesy of Henry Wang Photography.
147Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
personalities of the different couples. In a unique photo shoot, one couple
decided to take black-and-white photographs in a rustic setting dressed as
people from the 1920s. Made to look like Bonnie and Clyde, they pose in a
classic antique car from the time period in front of a barn.29 Others choose
to don traditional ethnic wedding garb and dress in costume as emperor
and empress of China or other regal figures of the past.30 This anachronistic
engagement with fantasy enables the couple to enact different persona, or
fulfill a variety of roles playfully, as they work together to create memories
while remaking their own images together. The medium of photography
allows for these imaginary scenes of romance to be concocted with the
photographer, even as it remains impossible to remove the markings of
historical time and the social context from which the images are produced.
Nevertheless, the desire to be suspended in time, like the photograph itself,
demonstrates the flexibility associated with this medium.
The practice of taking the photographs ahead of time marks a clear
distinction between most Asian American weddings and standard Ameri-
can weddings. The other difference is that much attention is devoted to
glamorizing the couple, especially the bride, and portraying idealized im-
Figure 4. Courtesy of Henry Wang Photography.
148 • JAAS • 17:2
ages of romantic love. In traditional American weddings, brides are not
supposed to be seen in their wedding dress before their wedding day.31
But for Asian Americans, in fact, photographs taken before the wedding
are much more important to the couple than those taken the day of the
event. In her study, Adrian explains that photos taken before the wedding
create narratives of romance. She notes that the romance is conjured by
the couple and the photographer, who tends to be male. There is little
doubt that ideas about romance conceived in these visual productions
are negotiated and produced; nevertheless, the vision belonging to the
bride most often emerges as the dominant one. Similar to the readers of
romance novels in Janice Radway’s insightful study, “romance” in bridal
photography “provide[s] a utopian vision in which female individuality
and a sense of self care are shown to be compatible with nurturance and
care for others.”32 Yet in a world where visual imagery about romance and
sexuality circulates transnationally, producers and subjects follow “visual
clichés” in order to create images signifying romance.33
Generally guided by gender scripts, bridal photography adheres to
traditionally rigid ideologies. However, when couples actively partici-
pate in the process, the act of conjuring images of romance allows them
to invert gender scripts and play with traditional notions of gender. As
Adrian suggests, the production of bridal photographs has the potential
to empower the bride and temporarily challenge the gender roles she is
expected to fulfill after the wedding.34 At the time of her study, Adrian
noted that unlike most photographic contexts where women’s bodies are
often eroticized and subject to the gaze of others, bridal photographers
in Taiwan worked to desexualize the bride so that she could bask in the
pleasures and glamour of the photo shoot.35
The sexual politics discussed in Adrian’s portrait of Taiwan in the
1990s have since shifted in the postmillennial photographic trends of
young Asian and Asian American couples in the United States. Although
the bridal body was previously regarded as a site of purity and sexual
innocence, particularly before the wedding, it is now common for the
bridal body to be portrayed as sexualized. With the increased practice
and acceptance of boudoir photography in the United States and perhaps
a more flexible attitude toward sexuality, contemporary photographs of
149Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
Asian American couples unveil the bride vacillating between sexual object
and subject.36 She is often portrayed with an alluring stare or intoxicatingly
suggestive smile. In the moments when the bridal body is the focal point
of the shoot, she appears to be commanding the gaze while her groom
glances at her or beyond her. Looking directly into the camera back at the
photographer/viewer, she challenges the onlooker’s gaze, while simultane-
ously inviting the gaze to fixate on her face and body (see Figure 5). Using
her body, and by extension her fashionable dress (and when featured in
a wedding dress she is accented by all the proper feminine accessories),
she looms large while the groom recedes into the background. Her body
can appear demure, nubile, and graceful, but increasingly she is shown
possessing or wielding some kind of power in the relationship. In some
cases, she may have made the majority of the decisions for the wedding,
as most brides do, but in others her power is visually symbolic. Adrian
argues that this inversion of traditional gender ideology reminds the
bride that she not only can be playful in these fields of visual production,
but also can indulge in feminist fantasies before committing to marriage.
Adrian is also quick to point out that after marriage, Taiwanese couples are
expected to adhere to dominant gender ideologies. Women, in particular,
are required to assimilate into traditional patriarchal and patrilineal house-
hold structures.37 The couple’s chances to establish a home of their own
after marriage are much greater in Southern California, despite escalating
housing prices. The photographs of wedded bliss essentially generate an
archival fantasy to which the couple can refer later in their married life.
These images are often displayed in living rooms and bedrooms of their
homes as a reminder of their commitment to each other. Moreover, they
serve as visual references for brides to negotiate power in marriage.
toward a theory of Bridal glaMour: lights, Makeup, and the Magic of photoshop
While weddings involve both the bride and the groom, the bridal indus-
try ensures that the bride is offered a dizzying array of choices when it
comes to matrimony. From what she wears and how she wears it to what
she chooses to do with her name and her body, the bride is hailed by all
kinds of vendors to make the most pressing decisions for the couple’s
150 • JAAS • 17:2
big day. With the goal of showing off their physical (and financial) assets
on their wedding day, it is not uncommon for brides to undergo radical
treatments, diets, and other bodily transformations to achieve their best
form.38 In terms of commodities, the bridal body can be adorned and
remade with everything from fashionable dresses, accessories, and shoes
to hairstyles, makeup, and even flowers depending on the wedding budget.
The choice of bridal attire may reveal a bride’s level of comfort with her
body and her style, but fashion trends often dictate how much skin a bride
bares, while social pressures demands more lavishness in her selections.
As such, it is much more common for brides to choose strapless dresses
than the more modest dresses worn by their mothers and grandmothers,
and fancier accessories than they initially imagine. Feminist scholarship
examining popular and visual culture has honed in on what many are
calling the postfeminist moment that emphasizes women’s sexual free-
dom and choice.39 However, the choices women make still rely heavily on
consumer products.
This participation in consumer culture requires an intense regimen of
self-maintenance that demands attentiveness to microscopic detail. These
Figure 5. Courtesy of Promise Wedding Studio.
151Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
reinstated traditional feminine practices aimed to impose bodily detail-
ing, self-surveillance, and excessive grooming are rituals of what Angela
McRobbie calls a “post-feminist (anti-feminist) masquerade” that work
to mask systemic male approval and patriarchal authority.40 The goal in
undergoing the various practices of transformation is to produce an allure
or a mystique in self-presentation. In theorizing the connected concepts
of allure and enchantment, Nigel Thrift writes, “This quality of allure is
being applied in all kinds of new ways, producing a more magical world
that is also, at one and the same time, more calculated. In the process,
new ‘intangible’ value is being generated for industries that are already
some of the world’s key means of making money.”41 Thrift’s work further
establishes a connection between goods and objects that functions effort-
lessly to create fictions of glamour in the social field. Thrift’s articulations
about the affective qualities of glamour provide a helpful framework to
understand the production of glamour in bridal photography as a normal-
izing practice among young couples.
Bridal photography relies heavily on consumer products to render a
wedded couple’s transcendence in American society symbolically, yet the
subjects of the photographs often depend on the transformative proper-
ties of makeup to change them from ordinary people to extraordinary
images worthy of notice. “Bridal makeup” has become regarded as the
quintessential aesthetic transformation for any woman. This aspirational
look achieved through the clever use of cosmetics and lighting to enhance,
conceal, and create illusions is now demonstrated through exponential
numbers of Internet tutorials on how to wear “bridal makeup.”42 Magazines
and online beauty sites also encourage women to adopt the “bridal look”
for their everyday appearance, thereby prolonging the beauty that brides
possess on their wedding day. Bridal hair is perfectly coiffed and bridal
makeup has the potential of turning any bride into a celebrity-like figure
capturing omnipresent attention. She possesses a “glow” that is uniquely
hers. Whereas her photographic self can be digitally manipulated to the
point where she becomes unrecognizable, photographers and image con-
sultants consistently inform me that brides want “ten to fifteen pounds”
taken off their wedding photos.43 Although some brides work hard to trim
down their bodies for the day of the wedding, others demand thinness
and the illusion of the slim bridal body without having plastic surgery
152 • JAAS • 17:2
through the altering of their bridal photographs. Moreover, makeup,
with its wonders, can widen and enlarge eyes, create the appearance of
slender noses, and remove any flaws from the skin, making it appear as
pore-less porcelain.
Unlike any previous moments in the couple’s life, this occasion lavishes
attention on them, marking a transformation in their status. Photography
frames the bridal face and body, making these features the primary focus
that captivates all gazes. Moreover, aesthetically, allure and glamour domi-
nate. As Thrift further asserts, “Glamour is about the special excitement
and attractiveness that characterizes some objects and people. Glamour is
a form of secular magic, conjured up by the commercial sphere. We might
see it as a fetish or as a means of feeling thought and tasting thought.
What is clear is we seek it out.”44 As significant subjects, the marrying
couple and the bridal body demand attention evocative of glamorous
self-presentation. The technologies of glamour thus work in conjunction
with commodities and contexts within the frame of each photograph.
The glamorous photographs essentially lock the couple into images
that idealize their relationship to be fulfilled by fantasy, beauty, and ro-
mantic love. These images largely imitate those that circulate in popular
culture and become the sources for the happy couple hoping to fulfill those
fantasies. Reflecting on the medium and the process of image production,
Susan Sontag writes,
Photography has powers that no other image-system has ever enjoyed
because, unlike earlier ones, it is not dependent on an image-maker.
However carefully the photographer intervenes in setting up and guiding
the image-making process, the process remains an optical-chemical (or
electronic) one, the workings of which are automatic, the machinery
for which will inevitably be modified to provide still more detailed, and
therefore, more useful maps of the real. The mechanical genesis of these
images, and the literalness of the powers they confer, amounts to a new
relationship between image and reality.45
In the case of bridal photography, the new relationship forged between
reality and the images produced not only is circumscribed by images of
romance circulating in popular culture, but also serves to prescribe social
aspirations for advancement in American society. At the most superficial
level, the high-end photographic images appear to accentuate gender
153Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
differences and deemphasize racial markers, especially when couples are
ensconced in serenely natural settings such as a meadow or beach. Never-
theless, supplemental frames narrating the wedding suggest that class and
race infuse the bridal photographs, especially as the couple is surrounded
by expensive accouterments and commodities such as fine Tiffany jewelry,
Hermes cufflinks, Jimmy Choo shoes, Badgley Mischka gowns, and other
high-end designer accessories, including luxury vehicles that reflect their
elite status. Whether the material goods are owned, borrowed, or rented,
they function to elevate the wedded couple’s social and class standing or
enhance their self-image.
reading the Male Body
Until recently, little could be read of masculinity in bridal photography.
Because the photographic practice was feminized and focused on the bridal
body, less attention was paid to the groom. For the most part, the groom
has been depicted as an accessory to the bride, whereby his visibility fades
in and out of the frame. In some instances, such as the image in Figure 5,
his presence is blurred out, overshadowed by her body, or merely suggested
by a silhouette. In recent years, these practices have started to change as
Asian American men have begun to seize the opportunity to articulate an
alternative masculinity from that of the American mainstream. I want to
stress that partaking in these photo sessions enables men not only to assert
their own masculinity but also to play with and bend gender norms. Hence,
it is unsurprising to see a groom playfully submit to the dominance of his
new wife in photographs. In other settings, men embrace the opportunity
to demonstrate their wealth, status, and potential ability to provide for
the wedded couple. Enjoying the process of being photographed, some
construct an alternative masculinity or use the opportunity to create a
form of hypermasculinity by mimicking scenes from popular culture
such as gangster films or by posing in sportsman-like postures with their
groomsmen. In one example, a groom is featured as the leader of his team
in a huddle with other men.
Yen Le Espiritu, Robert Lee, and other scholars examining Asian
American representations in popular culture have argued that Asian
American masculinity must be understood within the framework of
154 • JAAS • 17:2
history.46 Due to economic and cultural imperatives, the racialization of
Asian American men has stereotyped them as “effeminate” and asexual.
The historical demonization of Asian American men as the yellow peril
and the repeated failures of American popular culture to portray them
realistically render few positive models for men. The circulation of ac-
tion films from Asia since the 1990s with stars such as Chow Yun-Fat, Jet
Li, and Jackie Chan has provided alternative images of masculinity for
Asian American men in the United States. The photograph in Figure 6 is
evocative of a scene from a Hong Kong crime flick. Working in tandem
(or perhaps in collusion) with a photographer (Asian American and male
in an overwhelming number of cases), the group possesses a slickness that
challenges the idea that Asian American men are incapable of possessing
“coolness” in other social settings in mainstream American society. It is
also in this space that the cool guy essentially gets the girl of his dreams
and marries her.
Figure 6. Courtesy of Henry Wang Photography.
155Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
conclusion
Despite pressure to perform ethnicity and pay homage to their cultural
heritage, Asian American couples engage with popular culture and adopt
trends and practices amendable to their own identity as ethnic Americans.
While some couples perform rites and rituals on their wedding day for
their parents and other community members, they also choose to enact an
alternative, more personal identity for themselves as they become united
in matrimony. In the photographs taken before they are married, they
perform idealized romantic scenes where they are together isolated from
the rest of the world. From the engagement photos to the wedding photos
and beyond, the couple works with a photographer to realize their deepest
romantic fantasies while remaining respectable and tasteful.47 Encapsulated
in a medium that is itself a transforming technology, bridal photography
allows couples to indulge in choices of self-representation.
Photography promises to solve a vast array of potential social, cultural,
and ideological problems, but it is unable to conceal markers of race. In her
comments about photography’s centrality to the history of race and the
formation of citizenship, cultural critic and creative artist Coco Fusco as-
serts, “Rather than recording the existence of race, photography produced
race as a visualizable fact.”48 Asian American subjects who constructed
their cultural identities through bridal photography cannot elide their
race in the digital age. In fact, bridal shops in Temple City have endured
racist vitriolic attacks from within the community as they have become
scapegoats for urban transition and global restructuring instigated by an
emerging Asian population into the area and the perceived social, political,
and economic rise of Asia in general.49
In my research, I discovered that the visual productions made from
cultural practices surrounding matrimony—through codes of class,
discourses of respectability and multiculturalism, and performances of
heteronormative romantic love are meant to normalize and position Asian
immigrants as part of American society. However, the images created from
these attempts to “pass” can be interpreted as threatening to the American
way of life. The subjects are seen as racial foreigners attempting to impose
their ideas about romance, beauty, and family upon the local population,
and the gendered images produced through bridal photography are per-
156 • JAAS • 17:2
ceived as the promotion of illicit activities prostituting women, an idea
that harkens back to the racial discourses of the nineteenth century.50 Race
remains a significant barrier despite class achievement.
In historicizing the tensions created through visual imagery, I traced
the transnational roots and routes of the bridal photography industry
by examining the meanings and notions of beauty, romantic love, and
“culture” in the wedding practices of immigrant and second-generation
Asian Americans. Through this series of close analyses of visual produc-
tion, I attempted to make visual sense of the cultural practices involved in
bridal makeovers and bridal photography by critically deconstructing the
meanings behind the circuits of representations as well as the reasons why
people perform the cultural practices originating in Asia but adopted and
adapted for a lifestyle in the United States. I intend to do more interviews
with the subjects of the photographs and those who participate in these
practices of image making as I continue my research.
notes1. These numbers refer only to the industry in the United States, and do not
reflect specialized markets within the industry. Krystal Wynn, “Weddings by the Numbers (Infograph)” (August 30, 2011), http://www.bridepop.com/everything-else/weddings-by-the-numbers-infograph/.
2. There are conflicting estimates of the actual costs of weddings, and many of the prices are inflated and adjusted according to tastes and location, but the amount actually spent in most cases ends up higher than the price bud-geted. See these websites for details: http://blog.theknot.com/2013/03/07/average-wedding-cost-2013/; http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/07/cost-of-a-wedding_n_2831445.html; and http://www.gobankingrates.com/savings-account/average-wedding-cost-actually-nowhere-near-25000/.
3. In this article, I focus on Asian Americans who identify with East and South-east Asia and the cultural forms most often associated with these nations. The wedding industry of the South Asian diaspora demands an entire study of its own. For more information, please see Kativa Ramdya, Bollywood Weddings: Dating, Engagement, and Marriage in Hindu America (Latham, Md.: Lexington Books, 2011). For more insight on Asian American cultural productions, see Lisa Lowe, Immigrant Acts: On Asian American Cultural Politics (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 1996), and Kandice Chuh, Imagine Otherwise: On Asian American Critique (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2003).
4. The “cultural traditions” invoked are often symbolic and serve to pay homage to the couple’s heritage. These are often personally, communally, or com-mercially defined and do not adhere to actual rules and tenets of any culture.
157Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
In some ways, bringing “ethnicity” and “culture” into a wedding is optional. Please see the classic text on identity and ethnicity: Mary Waters, Ethnic Op-tions: Choosing Identities in America (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1990).
5. Bonnie Adrian, Framing the Bride: Globalizing Beauty and Romance in Taiwan’s Bridal Industry (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2003).
6. Y. Anu Saraswati, “Cosmopolitan Whiteness: The Effects and Affects of Skin-Whitening Advertisements in a Transnational Women’s Magazine in Indonesia,” Meridians: Feminism, Race, Transnationalism 10, no. 2 (2010): 15–41.
7. Elsewhere, I explore the racial politics of these struggles; please see: Nhi T. Lieu, “Disrupting Nostalgic Scenes of Whiteness: Asian Immigrant Bridal Shops and Racial Visibility in the Ethnoburb,” Spaces and Flows: An International Journal of Urban and ExtraUrban Studies 3 (2013): 1–13.
8. Vicki Howard, Brides, Inc: American Weddings and the Business of Tradition (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2006).
9. Eric Hobsbawm and Terrance Ranger, The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992).
10. Cele C. Otnes and Elizabeth H. Pleck, Cinderella Dreams: The Allure of the Lavish Wedding (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2003). For a study geared toward a popular audience, see Jacyln Geller, Here Comes the Bride: Women, Weddings, and the Marriage Mystique (New York: Four Walls Eight Windows, 2001).
11. Elsewhere, I elaborate on the global and demographic shift by examining the presence of bridal salons and racial politics of local spaces in Southern California. See Nhi T. Lieu, “The Business of ‘Fitting In’: Asian Immigrant Bridal Salons Transforming Bodies and Geographies” (paper, American Studies Association, Baltimore, October 23, 2011).
12. Rob Wilson and Arif Dirlik, Asia/Pacific as Space of Cultural Production (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 1996).
13. These aesthetics were initiated in Asia. Photos would sometimes be sur-rounded by grammatically incorrect, nonsensical phrases made to look like headlines in a Western publication. This practice was adopted for use in the United States, but it was short-lived.
14. Carley Roney and David Liu, “Something Old, Something New,” Time Business, November 15, 2007, http://www.time.com/time/business/ar-ticle/0,8599,1684491,00.html.
15. Virginia Postrel, The Substance of Style: How the Rise of Aesthetic Value Is Remaking Commerce, Culture & Consciousness (New York: HarperCollins, 2003).
16. InStyle magazine was a leader in instituting these trends. In additional to fashion and style, the magazine focused on celebrity life cycles, especially weddings and pregnancies, to satiate the public’s interest. Susan Douglas and Meredith Michaels, The Mommy Myth: The Idealization of Motherhood
158 • JAAS • 17:2
and How It Has Undermined Women (New York: Free Press, 2004); Otnes and Pleck, Cinderella Dreams.
17. Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, The Beautiful Generation: Asian Americans and the Political Economy of Fashion (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2011).
18. Gerit Quealy, “When Something Borrowed Means the Dress,” New York Times (Fashion/Weddings), February 26, 2006.
19. Style coordinators, interviews with author at Lucy’s Bridal and Photography and Promise Bridal Studios, Temple City, Calif., August 3, 2010.
20. Indicative of this turn was the trade publication of books that provided somewhat problematic explanations and instructions for Asian American couples to incorporate “culture” in their weddings. See Shu-Shu Costa, Wild Geese and Tea: An Asian American Wedding Planner (New York: Riverhead Trade Press, 1998). Many found Costa’s book to reify and reinforce cultural essentialism, while others thought her emphasis on Chinese customs to stand in for “Asian American” to be highly contentious.
21. See the exemplary analyses of photography and its cultural meanings in Shawn Michelle Smith, American Archives: Gender, Race, and Class in Visual Culture (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1999); Laura Wexler, Tender Violence: Domestic Visions in an Age of U.S. Imperialism (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2010); Anna Pegler-Gordon, In Sight of America: Pho-tography and the Development of U.S. Immigration Policy (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009).
22. Smith, American Archives, 5.23. Nigel Thrift, “Understanding the Material Practices of Glamour,” in Affect
Theory Reader, ed. Melissa Gregg, Gregory Seigworth, and Sara Ahmed (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2010), 289–308.
24. Anna Pegler-Gordon calls these strategies the “honorary ethnographic,” a term she used to call attention to how subjects resist documentation through photography by asserting their own agency.
25. Modern Girl Around the World Research Group, “The Modern Girl as Heu-ristic Device: Collaborations, Connective Comparisons, Multidirectional Citation” in The Modern Girl Around the World: Consumption, Modernity, and Globalization, eds. Alys Eve Weinbaum, Lynn M. Thomas, Priti Ramamurthy, Uta G. Poiger, Madeleine Y. Dong, and Tani Barlow (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2008), 13.
26. For an important study on cultural citizenship, see Aiwah Ong’s Flexible Citizenship: The Cultural Logics of Transnationality (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 1999).
27. Hubert Damisch, “Five Notes for the Phenomenology of the Photographic Image,” in The Photography Reader, ed. Liz Wells (New York: Routledge, 2002), 88.
28. Take, for example, the flash mob marriage proposal. No longer are propos-als an intimate act between a couple, but one that involves a community of people staging a production leading to the moment where the groom pops the question. Increasingly these intimate moments are no longer undocumented.
159Fashioning Cosmopolitan Citizenship • lieu •
29. See Henry Wang’s photography blog. http://mrhenrywang.com/2012/09/vintage1920s-themed-e-session-los-angeles-engagement-session/
30. See Henry Wang’s photography blog. http://mrhenrywang.com/2012/10/e-session-union-station-pasadena-city-hall-albert-eva/
31. Although the practice of taking photographs before the wedding day has been common in Asia and in Asian immigrant and Asian American communities, I would argue that bridal photography has made it more acceptable in the United States in recent years.
32. Janice Radway, Reading the Romance: Women, Patriarchy, and Popular Litera-ture (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1991), 55.
33. Adrian, Framing the Bride, 181; Laikwan Pang, “Photography, Performance, and the Making of Female Images in Modern China.” Journal of Women’s History 47, no. 4 (Winter 2005): 56–85.
34. Adrian, Framing the Bride, 202. 35. Ibid., 198.36. Since 2011, the Huffington Post has been running a number of articles fo-
cusing on boudoir photography. See http://www.huffingtonpost.com/news/boudoir-photography/. In an earlier posting, Amy Haberland asks, “Does This Sexy Wedding Trend Go to Far?” as the title of her piece. (December 20, 2011). However, the title of the same piece has since changed to “In Defense of Bridal Boudoir” http://www.huffingtonpost.com/amy-haberland/to-boudoir-or-not-to-boud_b_1151755.html. Also see: Marisa Leigh, “Where Did Boudoir Photography Come From?” (February 3, 2014) http://www.huffingtonpost.com/marisa-leigh/where-did-boudoir-photography-come-from_b_4654991.html
37. Adrian, Framing the Bride. 38. Television shows such as Bridalplasty offer extreme plastic surgery makeovers
for the brides-to-be, while Exercise TV, an on-demand video program, makes several series devoted to shaping and preparing the bride for her wedding, including Bridal Body Burn and Bridal Boot Camp. Courtney Hutchinson, “‘Bridalplasty’: Plastic Surgery as a TV Prize?,” ABC News Medical Unit, http://abcnews.go.com/Health/Wellness/bridalplasty-compete-nose-jobs-implants-dream-wedding/story?id=11663378 (accessed September 20, 2010); David Lieberman, “VOD Offers New Way to Work Out,” USA Today, January 17, 2006.
39. See Angela McRobbie, The Aftermath of Feminism: Gender, Culture, and So-cial Change (London: Sage, 2009); Susan Douglas, Enlightened Sexism: The Seductive Message That Feminism’s Work Is Done (New York: Times Books, 2010).
40. McRobbie, Aftermath of Feminism, 66.41. Thrift, “Understanding the Material Practices of Glamour,” 290.42. YouTube.com showcases numerous makeup instructional videos for women
so they can learn to put on makeup for their own wedding. For example, see http://www.frmheadtotoe.com/2009/08/bridal-makeup-video-tutorial.html.
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43. Bridal consultant for Promise Wedding Studio, interview with author, Temple City, Calif., August 2, 2010.
44. Thrift, “Understanding the Material Practices of Glamour,” 297. 45. Susan Sontag, On Photography (New York: Picador, 1973), 123.46. Yen Le Espiritu, Asian American Women and Men (Thousand Oaks, Calif.:
Sage, 1996); Robert Lee, Orientals: Asian Americans in Popular Culture (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1999); Nguyen Tan Hoang, “The Resurrection of Brandon Lee: The Making of a Gay Asian American Porn Star,” in Porn Studies, ed. Linda Williams (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2004).
47. In Bonnie Adrian’s detailed ethnographic research, she mentions one incident where a photographer had to submit to the request of a couple to have their photos taken in the nude. She explained that this private album made for the couple was used to capture their youth and beauty but also indulged them in the fantasy of celebrity. See Adrian, Framing the Bride, 219–21.
48. Coco Fusco and Brian Wallis, eds., Only Skin Deep: Changing Visions of the American Self (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2003), 16; Pegler-Gordon, In Sight of America, 10.
49. Denise Hamilton, “Bridal Shop Owners Denounce Crime Rumors as Rac-ist: Temple City: Talk That Businesses Are Fronts for Money Laundering and Prostitution Angers the Community’s Growing Asian Population,” Los Angeles Times, May 1, 1994, http://articles.latimes.com/1994-05-01/local/me-52664_1_temple-city (accessed August 2, 2010).
50. I explore this in greater detail in my work on race and the visual configuration of Asian Americans and immigrants in the “ethnoburb.” See Lieu, “Disrupting Nostalgic Scenes,” 1–13.