Fashion in the 20th century

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1900s•S-shape

silhouette•Gibson Girl•Rise of Haute

Couture

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S-CURVE SILHOUETTE

• The silhouette slimmed and elongated by a considerable amount since 1830s.

• Low chest and curvy hips.• Removed pressure from

the abdomen.• Necklines were supported

by very high boned collars.[

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GIBSON GIRL LOOK

• The Gibson girl was the creation of American artist Charles Dana Gibson (1867– 1944).

• Independent, athletic, and confident, the Gibson girl was also pretty and feminine, illustrating some of the contradictions of modern womanhood at the turn of the twentieth century.

• The look included High collars, Curls swept up in a bun, Shirtwaist blouses

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RISE OF HAUTE COUTURE

• Haute- High, Couture- Dressmaking.

• It refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing.

• Haute couture is fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish, made from high quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

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• In modern France, haute couture is a "protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards.

• Haute Couture designers-

oChristian Dior oDolce & Gabbana oGiorgio Armani oHermes oChanel 6

1910s•Paul Poiret•Orientalism•Hobble Skirt

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•Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was an influential French fashion designer.•He led a fashion renaissance that introduced free-flowing dresses•replaced tight corsets with brassieres.•This was an important step in liberating women from the confines of a metal or bone cage that caused them to disfigure their bodies.

PAUL POIRET

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ORIENTALISM• Poiret's clients were at once

transformed into harem girls in hisflowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colors and geishas in exotic kimono.

• Simple felt hats, turbans, and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of headgear popular in the 1900s.

• His lampshade tunic and turbans were all in vibrant glowing shimmering colours, with beaded embellishment.

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HOBBLE SKIRT• A Hobble skirt was a

skirt with a narrow enough hem to significantly impede the wearer's stride.

• It was a short-lived fashion trend

• The name was given in reference to the device used to restrain, or hobble, horses.

• A knee-long corset was also used to achieve this effect.

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1920s• The Flapper• Women’s

Sportswear• The Boyish

figure• Tweed

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FLAPPER DRESS• A flapper was a young woman of the 1920's.• The most memorable fashion trend of the

“Roaring '20s” was undoubtedly “the flapper” look.

• The flapper dress was functional and flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it.

• Their appearance included –o Short-bobbed hair styles,o fancy hats,o makeup, o and long, flat, but often gaudy dresses.

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WOMEN’S SPORTSWEARIn the post-war period, The tubular dresses

of the teens had evolved into a similar silhouette that now sported shorter skirts

with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion and easier movements.

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BOYISH FIGURE.• For the first time in centuries,

women's legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee and dresses becoming more fitted and most importantly, the confining corset was discarded.

• A more masculine look became popular, short hairstyles such as the bob cut.

• The fashion was bohemian and forthcoming for its age.

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TWEED•Tweed is a rough,

unfinished woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, but more closely woven.

• It is made in either plain or twill weave and may have

• a check or herringbone pattern.

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1930’s•Aloha shirt•Bowl cut•Fedora•Horn-rimmed glasses•Zoot suit•Double breasted suits

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ALOHA SHIRT

The Aloha shirt, commonly

referred to as a Hawaiian

shirt, is a style of men’s dress shirt originating in Hawaii. The

dress shirts are printed, mostly short-sleeved, and collared.

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BOWL CUTA bowl cut , is a simple and plain short haircut where the hair is cut

with a straight fringe on the front and the rest of the hair is the same

length all the way around or is cut short on the sides and back.

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FEDORAA fedora is a hat that is typically

creased lengthwise down the crown and "pinched" near the front on both sides. The typical crown height is 4.5 inches

(11 cm).

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HORN-RIMMED GLASSES

•Horn-rimmed glasses are a type of eyeglasses. •They are characterized by their bold appearance on the wearer's face.

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ZOOT SUITA zoot suit is a

men's suit with high-waist, wide-legged,

tight-cuffed, pegged trouse

rs, and a long coat with wide lapels and

wide padded shoulders.

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DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS

•The term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket.

• Wide, overlapping front flaps

•two parallel columns of buttons or snaps.22

1940’s• Spaghetti strap• Peter Russell

(fashion designer)

• Harlequin print• Kitty foyle (dress)• Pencil skirt• World War II

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SPAGHETTI STRAP

A spaghetti

strap (also

called noodle strap) is a very

thin shoulder

strap used in clothin

g, such as camisol

es.

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PETER RUSSELL (fashion designer)

•Peter Russell was a London-based fashion designer.•He is the founder member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers.• Running a major couture house from the 1930s to the early 1950s, he has been described as a: "designer of beautiful, jauntily sophisticated women's suits".

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HARLEQUIN PRINT

Harlequin print is a women's fashion design which was introduced by

designer Adele Simpson in 1944. She presented the harlequin print in a bold diamond design on the town suits she

created

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KITTY FOYLE (dress)

A Kitty Foyle is a dress style of the 1940s characterized by a dark fabric and contrasting light collar and cuffs,

typically of navy blue and white. The shape of the dress is a shirtwaist with short or

elbow-length sleeves.

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PENCIL SKIRTA pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem

falls to, or just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit.

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WORLD WAR II

•ZAZOU-The Zazous were a subculture in France during World War II. They were young people expressing their individuality by wearing big or garish clothing and dancing wildly to swing jazz and bebop.

•M1 HELMET-The M1 helmet is a combat helmet that was used by the United States military from World War II until 1985.

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NEW LOOK• Below-mid-calf

length• Multi-layered,

puff skirt• Large bust• Puff sleeves• Small waist• Cartoony look

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1950’s

• TEDDY BOY

•POODLE SKIRT

•RINGER TSHIRT

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TEDDY BOY

Teddy Boy is a British subculture typified by young men wearing clothes that were partly inspired by the styles worn by dandies in the Edwardian period.

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POODLE SKIRTA poodle

skirt is a wide swing felt skirt

 of a solid bright bold

colour (often pink and powder blue) displaying a

design appliquéd or

transferred to the fabric. The

design was often a coiffed French poodle

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RINGER T-SHIRT

A ringer T-shirt is a T-shirt in which the jersey shirt fabric is one colour, but the ribbing used for the collar and the sleeve bands are of a contrasting colour.

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1960’s• Kennedy Era• Aubrey

Hepburn Look• PVC Clothing• Chanel Suits• Mini Skirts,

Jeans, Hot Pants• Mod Look

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KENNEDY ERAThe “Jackie look” included-• Clean suits• A-line dresses• Famous pillbox hats• Triple strand pearl necklace• over-sized buttons.

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AUDREY HEPBURN LOOK•Audrey Hepburn is not only

one of the1960s fashion icons but is also a well-renowned actress.

• To this date, Audrey is still looked up as one of the best1960s fashion icons and a notable philanthropist.

•  The look has been described as "ultra-feminine" and "Parisian”.

• This little black dress attained iconic fame and status that it became an integral part of a woman's wardrobe. 

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PVC CLOTHINGPVC clothing , is shiny clothing made of the plastic polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

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CHANEL SUITS

•One of the strongest symbols of bourgeois female chic.

•A strong statement of an independent woman

•Pink color had an element of traditional femininity. 39

MINI SKIRTS, JEANS & HOT PANTS

• The miniskirt is described as one of the defining fashions of the 1960s.

• A miniskirt is a skirt with a hemline well above the knees, generally halfway up the thighs – normally no longer than 10 cm (4 in) below the buttocks.

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•Jeans became more acceptable•Jeans are trousers often made from denim or dungaree cloth.• Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of pants, called "blue jeans“•Invented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss in 1873.

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•Hot pants became a British fashion icon.

•Hot Pants are a garment worn by both men and women over their pelvic area, circling the waist and splitting to cover the upper part of the legs, sometimes extending down to knee but not covering the entire length of the leg.

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MOD LOOK• Mods were very

self-conscious and critical young adults.

• The term mod derives from modernist, a term used in the 1950s to describe modern jazz musicians and fans.

• Male mods- inspired from the music groups like the Beatles.

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1970s Hippie Look Disco styles

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HIPPIE LOOK

•Hippie clothing was made in extremely bright colors

• In the early 1970s, there was a trend for unisex men's and women's matching outfits. 45

DISCO STYLES• Fancy clothes made from man-

made materials• Stylish three-piece with neckties

and shirts• Disco clothes included tube tops,

sequined halterneck shirts, blazers, miniskirts, spandex shorts, loose pants, form-fitting spandex pants, maxi skirts and dresses with long thigh slits, jersey wrap dresses, ball gowns, and evening gowns.

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1980s•Active Wear Dressing

•Power Suits

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ACTIVE WEAR• Sports clothing as

everyday apparel• Tracksuits,

jumpsuits, etc.• The accessories

included Sneakers & tennis headbands.

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POWER DRESSING

• Oversized shoulder pads.

• 'power suits'.

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1990s•Doc Martens boots•Platform Shoes•Retro Style

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Doc Martens Boots

• The boots and shoes became popular in the 1990s as grunge fashion arose.

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Platform Shoes • These

are shoes, boots, or sandals with thick soles.

• The trend re-established itself in the late 1990s and early 2000s with a much higher threshold of what was considered outrageous.

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Retro Style• Retro fashion is a

clothing style which consists in wearing clothes commonly used in the past.

• Examples- leather handbags, "bell-bottom jeans", Poodle skirts, big sunglasses, fedoras, funky jackets, etc.

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PREPARED BY-•Ashwarya Chaudhary

•Shivani Singhal•Sudipta Sabharwal

Roll no.s- 13, 42 & 52 respectivelyB.Des 01

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