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Page 1: fashion

COMPANY PROFILE

Page 2: fashion

INTRODUCTION

Celebrity Fashions started as a small 50 machine factory with 72 people on

14th April 1988 in Mylapore, Chennai. It started with the name Celebrity

Designs Pvt Ltd. Company was started by Mr. V Rajagopal, who served as an

IPS officer for almost a decade before he resigned to start the company.

Company was incorporated on April 28, 1988 as Celebrity Fashions Private

Limited under the Companies Act, 1956. In the year 1998, it became a

deemed Public Company. Subsequent to the amendment to the Companies

Act 1956, company reverted back to the status of a Private Limited Company

in the year 1999. It became a Public Limited Company on September 12,

2005 and subsequently the name changed to Celebrity Fashions Limited.

Celebrity Fashions is among India’s top men's wear manufacturers. Celebrity

Fashions Ltd today is one of India’s leading garment exporters with its own

menswear brand, Indian Terrain. The fact that some of the world’s top

designer and fashion brands source out of Celebrity Fashions is testimony to

the company’s expertise and experience in international standard clothing

design, production, quality and warehousing.

Celebrity Fashions, with its headquarters in Chennai, India is uniquely

located to handle contracts for all kinds of garments in the latest international

trends. Celebrity fashions Ltd, MEPZ unit was acquired in March 2006 from

Ambattur Clothing Unit. This is the largest unit in India which is dedicated

entirely to bottoms of all kinds. MEPZ unit is the headquarters consisting of

around 4000 workers. The other three units of Celebrity group in Chennai are

located at Thiruvancherry that has a centralised washing unit,

Narayanapuram that has a centralised fabric and trim store and Poonamallee.

Celebrity Fashions, Poonamallee unit commenced operations on 21st

February 2005 when it took over SPAN EICHER. This unit specializes in

men’s and women’s tops. It is a 100% exports oriented unit with a workforce

of 700 workers.

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GROUP MILESTONES

1998 – Celebrity Designs Pvt. Ltd., Mylapore

1992- Celebrity Fashions – Velachery

1996- Celebrity Fashions – Chrompet

1998- Celebrity Fashions- Pallikaranai

1999- Celebrity Fashions- Porur Unit I

2000- Celebrity Fashions- Thiruvanchery

2000- Indian Terrain Clothing – R.A. Puram

2002- Centralized Trims / Fabric stores – Narayanapuram

2003- Celebrity Fashions – Porur Unit II

2004- Celebrity Fashions – Narayanapuram

2005- Celebrity Fashions – Poonamallee

2006- Celebrity Fashions – MEPZ, bottoms

2006- Celebrity Fashions – Irungattokotai

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CELEBRITY’S GOALS

To become a powerful apparel business set up, effectively moving in the

value chain, achieving greater economies of scale and tapping the world

market with its unique styling.

To integrate the domestic brand and the international export business with the

capacity to adapt itself to the demanding product specifications for both

international markets and the branded domestic market

To continuously upgrade and benchmark systems and processes to achieve

and exceed customer satisfaction.

To maintain high standards of investors relations, corporate governance and

work place practices.

CELEBRITY’S STRENGTHS

Strong management team and motivated and efficient work force

Experienced team with industry specific knowledge

Strong infrastructure setup

Experience with cost-plus engagement models

Delivery capabilities

Commitment to quality

A de risked business model

Strong customer base

20 years of experience in Garments.

Geographical Location (Manufacturing Units Near to seaport)

Strong Domestic brand, Indian Terrain

Celebrity Fashions Ltd. (Poonamallee) 4

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COMPANY PROFILE

Company : Celebrity Fashions Ltd, Poonamallee

Address : Celebrity Fashions Ltd,

No. 72/1 Senneerkuppam Village,

Poonamallee High Road,

Chennai -600056

Capacity : 4300 garments /day

Buyers : Eddie bauer

A & F

Kohls Corporation - USA

Academy

Malbro classics

ITC

Unit Type : 100 % E.O.U/ Public Listed

Company

Products : Men’s and Women’s Shirts

Total Factory Area : 38000 Sq feet

Production Lines : 8

Commencement of Operations : February 2005

Total Workforce : 700

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PROCESS FLOW OF THE COMPANY

Celebrity Fashions Ltd. (Poonamallee) 6

PDC department

Production planning department

Fabric and Trims main store (CTS and CFS)

Fabric and trims sub store

Cutting section

Ticketing and bundling

Sewing section

Finishing section

Quality control

Packing

Merchandising department

I.E Department

Shipment

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Designations

Factory Manager - Mr. Victor Premrajan

Assistant HR - Mr. Uma Maheshwaran

Production Manager - Mr. Haridoss

Production Coordinator - Mrs. Smitha

Production Coordinator - Mr. Selvam

Production Coordinator - Mrs. Naresh

Cutting Incharge - Mrs. Rajeshwari

HR. Executive - Mrs. Premlatha

Quality System reporting - Mrs. Premlatha

Management Trainee - Mr. Navin

Industrial Engineer - Mr.Elumalai Rajan A.

Commercial Executive - Mr. Hari Babu

M/C Maintenance - Mr. Ramesh

Needle Maintenance - Ms. Bhanbagwalli

Trims-incharge - Mr. Thirunavkarasu

Cashier - Mr. Jeevanandam

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DEPARTMENTS

MERCHANDISING

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The merchandising department acts as a link between the buyer and the

company and ensures the timely delivery of the order. The major functions of

the merchandisor are:

1. Order booking

2. Costing

3. Development of samples

4. Communication with the planning department

5. Communication with sourcing team

6. Following operations

Process Flow

Celebrity Fashions Ltd. (Poonamallee) 9

Receive Tech Packs

Costing

Organize Fabric, Trims

Prepare Patterns

Prepare Samples

Receive approval from buyer, send

for bulk

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Every season the garment merchandiser receives 30-40 Techpacks from

various buyers. These techpacks contain information about the garment down

to the very last detail. 4 copies of these techpacks are made for the following:

o Industrial Engg Dept

o CAD Dept (Pattern)

o Sampling Dept

o Self

Factors considered during Costing are:

o Fabric Cost

o Trims Cost

For Sewing

For Packing

o Cost of Manufacture (CM) - overheads added here.

o Up charge (profit margin)

o Washing

o Processing e.g. Over dyeing

Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well

as bulk purposes.

Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are

different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons

and zippers etc. The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms

and sampling request forms and executes the styles for sampling. There are

various types of samples made based on the criteria that need to be noted

from the sample. Based on the issues that crop up during sampling, changes

are made, re submits are made over and over again, until the required look

and feel of the garment is achieved.

A final sample called the sealer sample or the pre production sample is made

which is sent to the factory for bulk production. During production, if any

shortage in fabric or trims or any other problems arise, the merchant is

informed, and they acquire more fabric or trims, or under extreme conditions,

inform the buyer for an extension in delivery date.

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Format for recording mini marker details for costing

Style

No.Date Pattern SAM Size Shrinkage Purpose Fabric Width Parts

Matching

StdsMarker

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTER

FAIL

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Re- pilot with pattern amendment

Bulk

PASS

PASS

FAIL

Pilot run selected shrinkage range 10 -100 pcs all size all

color

Resize set and pattern amendment

Size set (selected roll all size all

color

Different patternVersion shrinkage

Costing Fit SampleOrder confirmation

PP SamplePattern GradingPP Approval

Pattern

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PATTERN MAKING(CAD)

Responsibilities

1. Making patterns for samples

2. For sample markers, production markers

3. For checking

4. For templates to be used in production.

For tops LECTRA is used and for bottoms GGT Gerber is used. The

functions of the CAD department are:

The department receives a pattern request form from the sampling

department every time a new pattern is to be made.

The pattern maker consults the tech pack and makes the pattern.

This is then digitized, reprinted after naming and cut.

The digitized patterns are amended, graded and used for making

markers for costing and also for the production markers.

This is the pattern that is used for making templates also.

Every time there is a change or amendment in the pattern, the pattern

version alphabet is changed. For example from A to B.

There is a team that works exclusively on making templates for

production.

The patterns are also printed on white sheets for sending to buyers for

approval.

Digitizing

Digitizing is done on a digitizing board. This board is electronic and the

pattern pieces are pasted on it.

Then the digitizing mouse is used to input the points, the grain line and

trace the pattern into the computer.

Usually this pattern is not completely accurate and amendments are

done.

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Future amendments are then made on this digitized pattern and

directly printed; this reduces the work of the manual pattern maker.

Even allowance for shrinkage is done on the digitized pattern on

Gerber software.

There is an input menu on the board, which is used to digitize piece.

The following is an example to digitize a front pattern

piece:

1. Start piece

2. Piece Name FRT *

3. Piece cut X2*

4. Rule table (S) *

5. Grain line AA *

6. Corner ABOD9

7. Notch AC1

8. Select Point A

9. Close piece

10. Internal Label (S)

11.All internal marks: ABOD9

12.To end *

13.End input.

There are 10 technicians for bottoms and 10 for tops.

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SAMPLING

The buyer places the order, along with Product Development Request form.

The marketing department then communicates with the Product Development

Centre. The function of the PDC department is to analyze the fabric

consumption, SAM calculation, the critical method involved in the style and

trims details. In the Product Development Request form, the fabric details are

filled by the merchant.

Proto Sample

The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This sample

is made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of

identifying the overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of

the style. The garment is produced in the base size (M) as asked by the

merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are made for proto sample one for SMS (color wise)

and other for Presentation sample.

Fit Sample

Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size and

fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given

by the buyer is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also

done on the substitute fabric as proto sample. The main factors that are

considered are:

a. Perfect style

b. Quality

c. Measurement.

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Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in

each fit.

First Iteration: Similar to the first fit sample, new fit sample of the basic size

is made with few changes according to the comments and new techpack sent

back by the buyer. Again, third or may be fourth fit sample can be made as

required.

Second Iteration: Similar like second fit sample new fit sample of the basic

size is made with few changes according to the comments and new techpack

sent back by the buyer. If the sample is approved the buyer confirms the order

to merchandiser and the specifications of the fabric and trims along with the

techpack are sent back to the merchant. In another case merchant sends up

to ten swatches of fabric for the approval for the bulk production. Finally, the

approval of the fabric and trims is decided by the mutual understanding

between the buyer and merchandiser.

Salesman Sample

These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer reaction to the

various styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed in

different retail stores and based on the average reaction, the buyer places

orders for bulk production. At the factory the salesman samples are referred

to as mini bulk.

Garment Process Test

GPT (Garment Performance Test) sample: two or three garments are sent for

the GPT test. GPT test consists of:

Seam slippage

Tearing strength

Button Pulling

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In case samples fail in above test, production is not allowed. Therefore in the

next GPT sample weaknesses of the garment are avoided and approval is

taken from the Lab.

The initial or first yardage is sourced from the mill during this period.

Sealer Sample/Pre-Production Sample

Sealer sample is sent back by the buyer after the approval of size set sample.

Seal is attached on this sample and it is maintained in the production

department, finishing department and QA for the requirements and the quality

parameters. Once the sealer sample is received industry is not allowed to

make any changes in the garment and this sample should only be followed as

the standard for production.

Size set: In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment.

If the fit sample is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and all

sizes

o Original trims and accessories are used.

o Four sets each of size are made.

o If not approved then again size set is made.

Pilot run: 25 pieces are cut in each colour and each size. 5-5 pieces on each

size and each colour are offered to the buyer’s QI’s.

TOP sample: The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the

first bulk production. It is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to

all sizes and all colors. In the base size the sample produced should be

double.

One set to the buyer

One set to buying office

One set as a counter with the merchant,

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IF NOT APPROVED, then again top sample is

produced.

IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment

starts.

Shipment Sample: Before the shipment buyer Q.A. picks up the carton

randomly and check for the quality. Shipment can only happen after of the

approval over shipment sample.

The workforce of PDC department is 170. There are 90 operators for sampling.

PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

Production planning and control is the backbone for the factory as it

coordinates with all the departments and maintain smooth flow of all the

materials. The main objective of PPC department is to collect information

about the factory’s committed capacity and available capacity. It also prepares

production plan of a particular order prior it reaches size set. It prepares

master plan to all departments and sending to them to respective

departments. This plan contains the following details:

Style

Date

Color and size ratio

Total Order quantity

Fabric Source

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Color and size ratio

Total Order quantity

Bill of Material

It updates the factory plan on day to day basis and to make schedules of the

functions to be performed by each department, providing a detail schedule of

the start and end dates of cutting, production, finishing and packing.

The 8-weeks rolling plan is prepared by this department which consists of the

dates on which a particular style has to be loaded on a particular line.

Process Flow

2 Months Planning

PPM Meeting (Pre production Meeting)

Shrinkage Study (Shrinkage Report)

Pattern making (Size Set)

Size Set Garments to Washing

Size Set Approval

Pilot run

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Cutting Schedule

The master plan gives the cutting department the information on how many

pieces of what color, size and fabric should be cut. They are also provided

with a week’s plan of all the orders running in each production line and the

quantity of pieces to be fed to the corresponding lines daily.

Sewing Schedule

This schedule is provided to the Production incharge to keep them updated

with their daily production targets. The schedule lets them keep track of how

many garments have been completed, and also the number of days and

garments remaining to be sewn for a particular style.

Washing Schedule

The planning department sends a washing schedule to the washing

department.

HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

There is a small HR department headed by Mr Uma Maheshwaran as

Assistant HR Manager. The department has many functions like attendance,

Payroll, training, recruitment and welfare. This department keeps a track of

the attendance and leave of the employees that is used for deciding on the

salary of the workers. A welfare officer is also there who takes care of the

needs of the workers and plays a vital role in motivating them and creating

awareness among them. There is a welfare department which is a part of H.R.

department. It works for the workers of the company. The awards and the

programs done by the welfare department are:

Star of The Month: It is the award given for the efficiency and work to

the workers. It is given to one operator from each line, one from collar

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section, one from cutting room, one from finishing and one from quality

department. The criteria for this award are:

o 100% attendance

o Discipline

Subordination

Absenteeism

Efficiency

Silence

o Late hours

o Attendance for 1 yr.

POP Corner: POP stands for Pride Ownership Passion.

It is held monthly. In this the operators are given information regarding

garment industry, eco-friendliness and CTPAT. CTPAT stands for

Customs Trade Partnership Against Terrorism and is encouraged by U.S.

buyers. There is a mascot named Neela doll for this program.

Sociable build Soldiers: Thanksgiving cards are given for expressing the

feeling of gratitude for others. The person who gets the maximum number

of thanks giving card is awarded.

Creche: Creche facility is also provided to the workers for their children.

The children are taken proper care and evening tea and teaching are also

imparted to them.

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FABRIC AND TRIM STORAGE

Trims and fabric store is centralized for three units of celebrity fashions i.e. for

Narayanapuram, Poonamallee and Thiruvancherry unit. They are located at

Narayanapuram unit.

CENTRAL TRIM STORE (CTS)

The trims used for tops only are stored at CTS. The major functions of CTS

are to receive, check and issue the trims and keeping the balance trims in red

tag area.

CTS incharge – Mr. Harikrishnan

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The process flow of CTS is as follows:

Bill of material is received from Mepz unit.

Purchase order is made and sent to the respective suppliers

Receiving department of CTS receives the order. The lead time for

imported trims is 25 days and that for the trims sourced from local

market is 5 – 10 days.

The trims are checked for quality as well as quantity by the quality

checking team of CTS.

Work order is received from the head office according to which the

trims are issued to the respective factories.

Trim card is made and sent to the head office for approval.

Daily trim report(TDR) is made and sent to the head office.

Types of trims

Labels

Main label

Main size label

Size label

Size and content label

Wash care label

Country of origin label

Placket label

Pocket label

Side seam label

Buttons

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Sizes

32 L

28L

24L

22L

20L

18L

16L

14L

Types

MOP

Horn

Snap

Rivets

Derings

Ring snap

Pearl snap

Chalk buttons(dyeable)

Thread

Chain poly

Core-spun polyester

Filament

Viscose

Packing trims

Back support

Collar patti

Butterfly

PVC patti

Pins

Clips

Tissue paper

Polybags

Master polybag

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Flat polybag

Stand up polybag

Hanger pack

Hang tag

Common tag

Price tag

Loop lock

Stapping roll

Gum tape

Cello tape

Tag and bullet

Inspection and checking

Threads

Threads ticket number is checked.

Threads article number is checked for colour.

Thread quantity is checked

Embroidery thread – 9000m per box

Spun polyester thread – 6000 m per box

Poly-poly – 10,000 m per box

Buttons

Buttons are checked for their “L” size.

1L= 1/40 inch.

Shade and color of buttons is checked

Type of button is checked

1 gross of buttons is counted and weighed and then whole packet is

weighed to check the quantity of buttons.

20 L button – 3 gross/packet

18 L button – 12 gross/packet

16 L, 14 L buttons – 20 gross/packet

Labels

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labels are checked for print, content , type of label andd quantity

Main label - shows brand name or logo.

size label – shows the garment size s,m,l,xl etc.

wash care label – describes the wash instructions.

Content label – describes the fabric content. Example, 67% cotton,

33%- polyester etc..

Origin label – it describes the country of origin.

Elastics

Elastic comes in different sizes(width) and colours.

10% of total quantity is checked.

Width and type of elastic are checked

Polybags

Two types of polybags are used as per the specification of the buyer

Polypropylene

Polyethylene

The trims are received at the receiving area, the carton numbers are checked

and the receipt is signed. The cartons are kept at quarantine area. They are

then opened and the trims are checked at the QC inspection area. If defective

trims are found then the number of defectives are informed to the

merchandising department at head office who in turn ask the supplier to

replace that amount.

After checking the trims are kept in the respective racks. A card containing the

number of trims according to style and buyer hangs at every rack. It helps in

keeping track of the amount of trims left in that rack.

The threads are kept according to the suppliers and shade. Labels are kept in

cartons that carry the buyer name, style number and the type of label.

Packing trims are kept according to type and the buyer. Trim tapes and

elastics are kept buyer wise. The balance trims are kept at red tag area.

The trims are issued according to the work order to the respective factories

and also to the trim sub store of the Narayanapuram unit.

Total work force in CTS

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Staff – 8

Workers – 12

Sourcing regions

Permar agency , Nerkundram , chennai

LR associates, cholai, Chennai

Coats India, vellacherry , Chennai

Brilliant labels, Hong kong

Max trade, Hong kong

Downtown buttons, Hong kong

CENTRAL FABRIC STORE

Fabric is received from the supplier according to the purchase order by the

receiving person. The fabric is then kept in the quarantine area. The roll are

issued for cutting of bits for shrinkage test and for preparing shade band. After

this the fabric rolls are inspected according to 4 pint grading system. The rolls

are inspected in perching machine and the takka are inspected on the

checking table. The passed fabric rolls are then kept on pallets and then kept

on racks according to the buyer and style no. Fabric is issued at the issuing

areas to the respective factories according to the work order. It is issued along

with the Non- Commencable Bits (NCR bits), pink copy (fabric inspection

report) and summary reports.

After the receipt of the fabric, three processes are followed:

Shrinkage test:

Fabric bit is cut to a size of 50 cm X full width in every roll.

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Fabric bit is cut into 50 X 50 cm

The bit is overlocked and marked with roll number and warp direction

Marking is done as per the shrinkage template ie.. 35 X 35 cm

Taking of washing standards for the particular style from the business

unit.

Washing bit is taken as per the wash recipe required for the style.

For washing, bits are sent to Thiruvancherry unit.

Pressing is done as per the style requirement

Fabric bits are then relaxed for 4 hrs. after ironing as per lab

requirement.

Shrinkage percentage in both warp and weft for every roll is

determined.

Shade bands

Shade blanket is cut 12” X 12”.

Shade blanket is sent to washing along with approved wash standard.

Shade segregation is done after wash

Shade band is made with both washed and unwashed bit of each

shade.

Three set of shade band is sent to business for approval.

Center to selvedge variation and selvedge to selvedge variation is

checked in spectralight shade matching cabinet according to the light

specified by the buyer.

The different types of lights available are : daylight, cool white

light(u35), uv light, horizon light.

Cool white u35 is used for A&f

Fabric inspection

Fabric face side swatch card is sent to business unit for approval.

Details covered in face side card are:

o Wash specification

o Pressing standards

o Fabric quantity

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o Hand feel

o Pattern

Fabric is checked lotwise as per 4 point system

100% fabric is checked for lot quantity below 500 mt.

30% of fabric is checked for lot quantity above 5000 mt and if lot fails

100% checked.

Samples of all defects found is washed and tested.

Unwanted sample of defects is given to cutting department for panel

checking.

Green sticker is for fabric roll that passed the inspection and red sticker

for the fabric that failed.

Fabric roll are inspected in perching machine and takka are inspected

on checking tables.

4 point inspection system

Length of defect in fabric(either length or width) Points

Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) 1

Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (15 cms.) 2

Over 6 in. (15 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) 3

Over 9 in. (23 cms.) 4

Holes and openings(largest dimension)

1 in. (2.5 cms.) or less 2

Over 1 in. (2.5 cms.) 4

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Rejection Criteria

Type of fabric Roll points Shipment points

50s count and above 18 14

Denim and twills 26 19

Mill made/ auto loom

fabric

26 19

Chambray and seer-

sucker

30 24

Linen and blends

38 28

Power loom fabrics 36 27

After the completion of the above three processes, 100% shrinkage and

shade details – rollwise is sent through mail to VP operation, factory manager,

merchandiser, cutting department incharge, technical department, sourcing

department and planning department. Then the fabric is issued to cutting as

per the work order. The lead time for one style to pass these three processes

is 7 days.

Wash evaluation test for Kohls

Wash evaluation test is done in which three intermediate washes are given to

the garment according to the AATCC 135 std. Drying condition is minimum 25

minutes. The garment undergoes conditioning for 4 hrs at 24º c and 65% RH.

One washed and one unwashed garment is hanged on Wash Evaluation

Quick View Board and check for smoothness, seam and pilling standards by

comparing the garments with the standard photographs. This test is done on

the garments that come out of the pilot run.

Workforce

Fabric receiving - 1 staff

3 workers

Fabric checking – 1 incharge

22 checkers

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Inspection machines – 6 machines

12 checkers (2 for each machines)

Library – 1 staff

Testing lab – 1 lab technician

3 workers

Fabric sourcing regions

Arvind mills

Adihi textiles ,Mumbai

A&EZ corporation, Chennai (lining fabric)

Ganitex Pvt. Ltd. , New Delhi

Global textile Pvt. Ltd. , New Delhi

Hitima Textiles , Andheri( Mumbai)

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting department receives the fabric from the Central Fabric Stores, which

is situated in the Narayanapuram unit. CFS (Central Fabric Stores) issues the

fabric according to the work order and the amount of fabric available ready for

use. The received fabric is stored in the racks infront of the cutting

department. There is one fabric and trims incharge for maintaining records

regarding the incoming and outgoing of fabric and trims.

There are total 85 operators amongst which 5 are cutters and 80 are

assistants. The total floor area of cutting department is 3750 square feet. It

has 5 spreading tables. The installed cutting capacity is 2000 - 2500

garments/day.

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Re- pilot with pattern amendment

Pilot run selected shrinkage range 10 -100 pcs all size all

color

Resize set and pattern ammendment

Size set (selected roll all size all

color

Different patternVersion shrinkage

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WORK FLOW IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Shrinkage Study

Pattern Required in Size Set

Size Set Cut

Marker Consumption Approval

Work Order Received

Fabric Received

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Laying

Marking

Cutting

Refolding

Relaying

Ready cutting

Panel Checking

Damage Cutting

Numbering

Fusing

Bundling

Storage in the Rack

Issuing in the line

CUTTING DEPARTMENT SOP

Check the lot nos. of the received fabric.

Layer the lot wise fabric for cutting to be cut in desired ratio.

Check layer height.

Select approval pattern for cutting and confirm style no., width etc.

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Lay the pattern and cut the layer.

Inspect the top, middle, and bottom Panels for the cutting accuracy.

Number the panels with lot no., size, and panel no.

Bundle the numbered panels.

Issue to the production lines.

FUNCTIONS

SPREADING/LAYING

Spreading or laying is done completely manually in the unit. The laying

workers receive the laying details which contains all the details required for

laying the fabric. The workers go and get the fabric from the storage racks. If

the fabric is in folded form, then the fabric is kept under the laying table on a

sheet to prevent the fabric from getting dirty. If the fabric is in roll form then

either it is unwound from the roll form or otherwise the roll is placed using a

rod on one end of the table.

Normally there are three people involved in the process of spreading. One

person stands on the end of the table and pulls the fabric from the underside

and releases it for spreading. The other two persons carry the fabric from one

end to the other. The spreading process goes as a cycle. The cycle is

mentioned below:

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Worker standing on the end of the table pulls the fabric from the underside

of the table using both hands and releases it for spreading.

One of the other two workers carries the end of the fabric till the other end

of the lay. The other worker holds a wooden stick in one hand and moves

with the other worker on the other side of the table.

The end of the fabric is matched with the end of the lay.

After that both the workers move towards the other end. One of the

workers not carrying the stick moves ahead of the other one and matches

the selvedge of the fabric with the edge of the lay. And the other worker

follows while settling the fabric using the wooden stick. Meanwhile the

worker standing near the end cutter spreads both the arms to spread the

fabric.

After they reach the end one worker makes a small cut with scissors on

the fabric layer and the other worker tears the fabric with his/her hands.

After that, again both the workers move towards the other end with the

edge of the fabric and the whole cycle is repeated again and again till

required number of layers is not laid.

When a thaan or roll of fabric finishes in between laying, the end bit is cut,

measured, recorded and kept separately. Big end pieces are used later in

single piece or two piece marker. The smaller end bits are used to replace

defective pieces.

The same is applicable for the interlining and lining which are followed by

manual marking and band knife cutting.

MARKING & CUTTING

After the lay is ready, the marker is made manually by keeping the patterns on

the lay and weights are kept. The patterns are received from the head office

and are stapled on a thick sheet to prevent tearing of patterns. A sticker

indicating size, lot number and name of the part is stuck on top layer of each

part in the lay before cutting. This is for easy identification of the parts after

cutting.

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After all the adjustments are made and the lay is ready for cutting, cutters

start cutting the lay using straight knife. Block cutting is done for checks and

stripes. Most of the notches are made using the straight knife only. The power

for cutting machine is received from the overhead power line.

REFOLDING

After the pieces are cut, the required pieces are refolded one by one

manually. Refolding is done for matching purposes and also to ensure the

straight grain where ever required for example in front placket, yoke, etc.

Some other problems like bowing, etc in the fabric are also removed during

this time.

RE LAYING

After the refolding of parts, they are laid again for ready cutting.

RE CUTTING

After the pieces are refolded, many of the parts are to be cut exactly as per

the patterns. Bigger parts like fronts, back, etc are cut using straight knife

blade and the smaller parts like plackets, yokes, etc are cut using band knife

machine. Extra care is required during this process as a small mistake can

leave all the pieces damaged.

TICKETING

After all the pieces are re-cut, they are taken for ticketing. A normal hand held

ticketing machine is used for this purpose. Ticketing is done on the pieces

according to the ticketing placement decided in PPM. A sticker contains the

size and a continuously increasing number. The number on the ticket can be

3 – 4 digits.

Different colored tickets are used like white, blue, yellow, green and pink. The

numbering starts from 1 for every color in one style

CHECKING

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The cut parts are checked by keeping the pattern over them. Top, middle and

bottom panels of every lay are checked.

All the cut pieces are checked one by one for defects. All the defective pieces

are taken out and recorded by the workers. Workers checking the cut parts

have been told of what kind of defects to look for and of how much intensity.

The mend able defects are mended by the weavers, else the defective parts

are replaced using the end bits of same color and shade. Defective pieces are

kept separately and can be used for cutting smaller pieces if required.

FUSING

All the pieces which require fusing are sent to the fusing section in the cutting

room. It has two Continuous Fusing Machines. Cuff, placket, welt pocket

pieces, collar, collar band etc are normal parts which require fusing. The parts

and the interlining are sandwiched between two tissue papers and fed in the

fusing machine. After the fusing is done, the parts are removed from the

tissue paper. They are bundled and sent back to cutting room.

ASSORTING AND BUNDLING

After that all the parts from the lay are divided into the bundles. Each bundle

is folded into a roll and tied with waste fabric. Very small pieces are kept

within the bundle of bigger pieces viz., Sleeve placket pieces are kept in the

bundle of sleeve. Each bundle is attached with a small card containing

information about that bundle:

Lot number

Style

Size

Quantity

Color and Shade

Serial number

Name of the part

READY TO ISSUE

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After bundling the bundles are kept in the racks in the cutting room. The

feeding helpers from the sewing lines take the bundles from these racks. One

worker in the cutting room records the number of bundles sent to the cutting

room

NUMBER OF MACHINES:

Band Knife – 02

Straight Knife – 10

Ticketing Machines – 05

Fusing Machines – 02

FILES AND RECORDS*

There are various types of files and records maintained in the Cutting section

at different stages. They are discussed below:

Fusing Test Report

Damage replacement report

Continuity card

Fabric summary sheet

Work Order File

Fabric shrinkage report

Lay quality report

Pattern position report

Cut panel report

Cutting issue slip

*ref:refer annexures

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SEWING DEPARTMENT

The Production department comprises of 8 production lines. Progressive

Bundle System is the production system used. Total number of operators in

this department is 297. There are total 8 supervisors. The sewing department

occupies an area of 12792 square feet. Total 339 machines are there in this

section.

The department is divided into collar and cuff sections, kaja button section

and the main assembly line.

WORK FLOW IN SEWING DEPARTMENT

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RECEIVE PRODUCTION DATES AND TARGETS FROM PRODUCTION MANAGER

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PRODUCTION STATUS

An hourly report is maintained in registers by helper girls, who go around to

every operator to find out their production for that hour. This then updated on

a board kept for each line to show their hourly as well as cumulative

production. A report of Work in Progress is collected from individual operator,

who then informs the situation to the Production Master, Production

Managers. The quality reporters compile the inline checking reports, end line

checking reports as well as the production status so that it is made into

comprehensive reports for the whole day for review. An hourly production

status is been sent to Factory Manager, who monitors the work flow.

FILES AND RECORDS*

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RECEIVE OPERATION BULLETIN & LAYOUT FROM IE

MAKE SIZE SET

LINE SETTING & PILOT RUN

BALANCE LINE ACCORDINGLY

RECEIVE CUT PARTS FROM CUTTING DEPT.

FILE THE PRODCUTION STATUS

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There are various types of files and records maintained in the sewing section

at different stages. They are discussed below:

Line Balancing File

Hourly Production per Operator

Incoming Bundles

Hourly Production Line wise

Daily Production Line wise

Production status (Style wise)

Production and Attendance Details File

Daily Factory Status Report (DFSR)

*REF: refer annexures

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Functions

To Rate the operators for pay purposes.

To make the operation bulletin

Line Balancing

Work station layout

Work Study

Method study

Capacity planning.

Operations Bulletin

Contains the elemental break down of all the operations.

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The operations are classified into loops, waist band, backs, fronts and

assembly.

The bulletin contains the following details.

Date

Style

Description

Total SAM

No of operators

Expected efficiency

Pcs / machine

Expected output / Day/Shift

Pieces / hour

Parts Description

M/c Sam

Manual SM

Operation requirements / hr

Work places

M/c type

Feed type

Attachments

Line Balancing

Initial line balancing is done taking into account the SAM values stored in the

sewing database. This information is included in the operation bulletin. The IE

department acts as an advisory body in resorting chronic bottle necks. In the

case of absenteeism then the line supervisor and the Industrial engineer work

together to balance the line.

FILES AND RECORDS*

Line wise efficiency

Factory efficiency

Daily production details

Time Study Report

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*ref: refer annexures

WASHING

Process Flow

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FAIL

FAIL

Inward

Segregation

Issue Job Card

Dry Processing

GrindingBlastingTagging…

Audit

Wet Processing

DesizingEnzyme washStone/ Rubber ballBleachingTintingSoftener Acid wash

Hydro Extractor

Dryer

Audit

Outward

PASS

PASS

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The garments sent to this department are sorted by shade, the purchase

order, and style and stored in the respective bins.

Consequently based on the planning schedule, the garments are sent

for the wash programs.

The wash recipe is set by the washing executive for the first lot, and

carried out for the all the garments in that particular style, fabric and

colour.

All dry processes are performed before the wet processes except in the

case of grinding where it is done before the softener treatment.

After washing, the garments are put into the hydro extractor to drain

out the water from the garments.

Subsequently, the garments are dried in tumble drier to remove any

traces of wetness. Drying takes about an hour depending upon the

specifications.

Finally, all the garments are checked 100% for visual defects such as

strikes, patches, shade mismatch etc. The defective pieces are sent for

rework and the good pieces are sent to the finishing department.

Tumble Dry machines

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Sand Blasting

It a type of dry process which is used to give a faded and worn out look to the

garment. To achieve this effect sand is blown at a pressure between 3 to 6

bar depending on the intensity of fading and type of fabric.

Sand Blasting Machine

Dust collector of the Sand Blasting Machine

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Tagging

This is a process where the garment is gathered and tagged in different

places. Due to this, during the wet processing the tagged areas do not get

affected by the chemicals / enzymes/ stone so only that area retains the fabric

color, thereby giving it a dark and light effect.

Grinding

It is a dry process. Here the garments are grinded so as to give it a torn look.

Generally after grinding the garments are given a softner wash.

Enzyme Wash

Enzymes are proteins and are present in all living cells. Enzymes speed up

chemical processes that would run very slowly. They are non-toxic and can be

readily broken down. Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the

finishing of fabrics and garments. They help to soften the fabric and lighten

the colour.

Stone Wash

It is the process in which pumice stones are added to wash cycle to abrade

the garment and to loosen the color. They are mainly used for denims.

Softener Wash

This wash is done so as to give the garment a good hand feel to the garment.

There are two kinds of softeners.

Silicon

Cationic

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Effluent Treatment Plant Process Flow

Celebrity Fashions Ltd. (Poonamallee)

BackWash

BackWash

BackWash

BackWash

BackWash

FiltrateConcentrate

Effluent Concentrate

Receiving sump

Equalization Tank

Flocculation Tank

Clarification Tank

Flash Mixing

Sand Filter Tank

Dual Media Filter

Ultra Filtration

Reverse Osmosis

Filter Press

Sludge For Disposal

Treated WaterFor Reuse

Raw Effluent

Carbon Filter Tank

48

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Receiving Sump

This is a small tank like structure where the wash out water from the washing

machine come and collected under gravitational force. From this sump the

effluent is pumped into the equalization tank. In this stage all the rags, sticks,

and stones etc are removed using a physical screen.

Overview of Effluent Treatment Plant

Equalization Tank

The objective of equalization is to minimize or control fluctuations in

wastewater characteristics in order to provide optimum conditions for

subsequent treatment processes. To maintain BOD and COD airator are used

in this tank. The functions of this tank are:

To help adequate pH control or to minimize the chemical requirements

necessary for neutralization.

To prevent high concentrations of toxic materials from entering the

biological treatment plant.

To get a normal water temperature

To get a homogeneous mixture of the effluent.

The effluent is retained in this tank for 8 to 12 hours.

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Flash Mixer

This is a small tank where the effluent is mixed with alum / mixed sulphate

salts at 100 to 500 mg/l. and lime at 100 to 500 mg/l. The effluent is agitated

so that the following chemical are mixed properly. They are added for ph

adjustment. The retention time in this tank is about 1 min.

Lime storage tank

Flocculation Tank

Here Polyelectrolyte are added at 1-2 mg/l . The retention time in this process

is about 30 min. Flocculation is a process of gentle and continuous stirring of

coagulated water for the purpose of forming flocs through the aggregation of

the minute particles present in the water. It is thus the conditioning of water to

form flocs that can be readily removed by settling or filtration.

Clarification Tank

This is a tank where all the heavy molecules are allowed to settle at the

bottom (sedimentation process). Then the water on top is allowed to flow into

the sand filter and the effluent concentrate is sent for filter press.

Filter Press

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Filter press is used to further concentrate the effluent to form semi solid

sludge.Filter press operate by applying very high pressure to the cake (from 5

to 15 bars and sometimes even more). After this the sludge is dried and

stored in sacks. The back wash of the press is sent back to the equalization

tank

Filter press

Sand Filter

Sand filter is used to remove the suspension materials and impurities in water.

The filter can remove the suspension materials.

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Media Filter

A media filter is a type of filter utilizing a bed of sand, crushed granite or other

material to filter water.

Activated Carbon Filter

It helps to remove the following substances

Organic, non-polar substances

Halogenated substance: I, Br, Cl , F

Odour

Yeasts and various fermentation products

Ultra Filtration

In this stage the water is forced against a semi permeable membrane.

Suspended solids and solutes of higher molecular weight are retained while

low molecular weight solutes pass through the membrane.

Reverses Osmosis

It is the process of forcing a solvent from a region of high solute concentration

through a membrane to a region of low solute concentration by applying a

pressure in excess (osmotic pressure). The membrane here is semi

permeable, meaning it allows the passage of solvent but not of solute. The

membranes used for reverse osmosis have no pore, the separation takes

place in a dense polymer layer of only microscopic thickness. In most cases

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the membrane is designed to only allow water to pass through. This process

requires that a high pressure be exerted on the high concentration side of the

membrane, usually 2 - 14 bar.

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FINISHING & PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Finishing section is responsible for trimming, checking, mending, ironing, and

packing the garments. Finished garments are received from Washing Unit.

There are total 100 checkers/ironers/packers and 3 supervisors. The total

floor area of finishing department is 9355 square feet.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT PROCESS

Garments received from washing

Sleeve Placket Marking

Collar down Marking

Sleeve Placket Button Hole & Buttoning

Extra Button Attaching

Collar down Button Attaching

First Checking

(uncut threads, raw edges, broken stitches)

Final Checking

(fabric defects, shade variations, hand feel, stains)

Measurements Checking

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Needle Detecting

Thread Checking

Ironing

Presentation Checking

Tagging

Packet Stickering

Poly Bagging

Shade Segregation

Carton Making

Carton Packing

Carton Auditing

Final Inspection

After the garments are received from washing, the collar down buttoning and

sleeve placket buttoning is done. Then the first checking is done in which the

garments are checked for uncut threads, raw edges and broken stitches. The

third step is final checking in which garments are checked for fabric defects,

shade variations, stains, hand feel and balancing of garment then the

measurements are checked against the specification sheet. It is a 100%

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checking where critical parts’ measurements are checked. A few

measurements which are checked are as follows:

Collar Length

Placket Width, length

Pocket placement & measurements

Sleeve Length

Side seam length

Button Placements

The garments from Measurement Checking are fed into the trimming section,

where the unwanted or extra threads protruding from the garments are

trimmed off with the help of a trimmer. The stained garments are sent to the

Stain removing section where the stains (oil, print, mark) are removed by

using guns with White Petrol and chemicals. The weaving defects are also

mended by a weaver.

The garment is then sent to the thread sucking machine for the complete

removal of trimmed thread. Then it’s moved to the ironing section. The ironed

garment is sent to the packing section where the garments are packed with

the poly bag. Before packing, the garments are tagged with the appropriate

bar code, tag, label etc. and finally the presentation of the garment is

inspected. If it’s not meeting the requirement, then it is sent back to the ironing

section for re-ironing. The quality inspection is done according to the AQL

level prescribed by the buyer.

WORK FORCE IN FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Checkers: 50

Measurement checkers: 8

Presentation checkers: 5

Assistant: 1

Stain removal: 2

Alteration tailors: 6

Kaja button tailors: 10

Button markers: 7

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Reporters: 3

PACKAGING TYPES

Crunch pack: Abercrombie & Fitch

Stand up pack: Timberland

Flat pack: LLBean

Hanger pack: Kohls

Carton sizes:

LLBean: 25 ˝×15˝×12˝ (20-50 pcs)

Timberland: 21˝×15˝×12˝ (18 pcs)

15˝×11˝×6˝ (6 pcs)

21˝×15˝×8˝ (12 pcs)

Academy: 90˝×15˝×27˝ (hanger pack)

Kohls: 23˝×19˝×7.5˝ (12 pcs)

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QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Each and every garment is checked for quality issues at various stages

starting from cutting till packing. Defective garments are sent for mending at

the mending section within the finishing section. But if the defect is not

mendable, the defective garments are sent back to the production floor to the

responsible production line.

All the garments are passed through the metal detector for detecting any

metal particles inside the garments. Garments with metal parts are directly

thrown in the bin provided next to the metal detector. The AQL (Acceptable

Quality Level) is 2.5.

Lot size or    

Acceptable Quality level      

quantity to 1.5   2.5   4  audit Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept

Less than 151 8 0 5 0 13 1151-280 8 0 20 1 13 1281-500 32 1 20 1 20 2

501-12,00 32 1 32 2 32 31201-3,200 50 2 50 3 50 53201-10000 80 3 80 5 80 7

10001-35000 125 5 125 7 125 1035001-150000 200 7 200 10 200 14

150001-5000000 315 10 315 14 315 21

5000001& over 500 14 500 21 315 21

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Quality in Cutting

Pre spreading quality checks

1. Cutting department has a big responsibility in taking care of quality

because once fabric is cut, it cannot be corrected at all and the losses by

losing fabric are high. Every piece re cut costs the factory.

2. The ratio of sizes made during the cut order plan is to minimize fabric loss.

3. The fabric width is constantly checked and the roll width is already noted

by the warehouse, and always fabric with same width are spread in the

same lay and issue of fabric is done in such a way by the cutting

department.

4. The takka number of fabric of same shade and same width is obtained

from the material management system which has the data that the

warehouse has stored about every takka in the database.

5. The cuttable width of the fabric is always ½” more than the marker made.

Spreading quality checks

1. Perforated paper is laid on the table before spreading fabric to ensure that

the lay does not get distorted or fabric is not damaged while moving the

lay towards the cutter.

2. The lays are laid taking care of machine capacity in terms of spreaders

capacity, cutters capacity and the optimum height to ensure clean cutting

without adversely affecting the machines.

3. The laying is done taking care that the takkas of one shade are laid in one

lay. Any shade variation is noted on the lay slip, and a paper is laid

between the layers to indicated change in shade.

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4. The laying is done only after the QC of the cutting department checks the

lay length setting, and the fabric width.

5. The spreaders (operators) have been taught to set fabric tension on the

spreaders and it is ensured that the fabric is laid tension free and it does

not lean.

6. The spreaders ensure that any holes or major defects evident on the fabric

if noticed is immediately cut off and the removed.

7. The number of plies spread is entered into the spreading machine and

hence never goes wrong, same way the nap is also entered.

8. The spreaders also ensure that in every roll at least 5 meters of fabric is

kept away as end bit.

9. The spreaders make sure to mark on the end bits the takka number and

the length of end bit so that re cuts from the same takka is easy

After Spreading Quality checks:

1. The lay length,

2. Cuttable width of fabric,

3. Width of marker,

4. Grain of marker,

5. Pieces of marker,

6. Number of pieces of marker,

7. Pattern matching with hard pattern,

8. Number of plies,

9. Lay height,

10.Nap direction,

11.Any skew ness on the fabric lay

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Pre cutting Quality checks

This is done for both the machine and for the lay. The lay is checked to see if

the lay is the same as the file entered in the cutting machine for cutting. The

marker is checked to confirm which lay is being cut, and noted. The marker is

checked if the blade plunging details have been given, if the byte setting has

been done.

The cutting assembly and blade is checked for change if needed. The

compressed height of the lay is checked. The lay is checked if it is properly

covered with plastic The power processor settings ensure quality in the pieces

during the cutting process. The factors considered are:

a. Cutting sequence -The setting of the cutting sequence is done

considering the grip of the vacuum, in order to avoid slippage between

plies the pieces with bigger surface area are cut first.

b. Blade direction - Setting the blade direction is important as a quality

requirement while cutting parts containing the crotch etc. eg: the right front

and the left back should be cut anti – clockwise and vice versa, to ensure

uniformity in cutting.

c. Blade Plunge - Setting the blade plunge forms a critical area as well

which involves setting the starting point, joining the parts, reducing the

gaps and thereby producing neater cutting. Another option is the lift-and-

plunge for sharp curves and right angled pieces.

Post cutting Quality check

The cut pieces are checked for even cutting by checking the top, middle and

bottom pieces with hard patterns for match. Any discrepancy is immediately

corrected by trimming off before sending to bundling.

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Panel checking

All the main panels of the garments are checked 100% for fabric and cut

defects. Re cuts are done with the end bits immediately Small parts are

checked randomly, pocketing fabric etc are also checked only randomly.

Fusing is cut and stored buyer wise, style wise in a separate section in bins

that is then issued to fusing machines. The number of plies is ensured while

ticketing using the starting and ending numbers. To ensure that no mix up in

size or shade happens, a lot that is cut is never broken and is moved till the

end as a single lot. Number of bundles is counted. Random number of

bundles is taken out, and pieces are checked for defects, thoroughly for all

parts.

Quality in Sewing

In line quality checks

1. The In line quality check points are decided by the IE department and by

the quality department.

2. They are placed strategically at the end of sub assemblies and after critical

operations.

3. In the manual lines, this is done by helpers.

4. The QC’s note these defects in a quality inspection format, where the

location of defect, type and number found in an hour and in a shift is

noted.

5. The in line QC’s check the inside as well as outside of the garment

thoroughly in the way its done using the same protocol and sequence to

ensure they don’t miss anything. This consistency of checking is ensured

in the training department

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6. The In – line QC’s check for stitching defects, stains, fabric defects etc.

7. If they miss checking it can become critical as some defects may not be

rectifiable and in such cases the loss may be great.

End line quality checks

The End line quality checkers are one of the most important people in

deciding whether the garment will rejected at a later stage. If the end line

checkers let some defects unnoticed and send the pieces to the next process,

the defect could become worse and lead to rejections. Thus catching a defect

as soon as it occurs, and finding its cause so that it doesn’t occur further is

the key to maintaining quality. The end line quality checkers along with overall

line checkers who occasionally pick random pieces and measure and check

for defects are majorly responsible for catching defects, and also help in

appraising the efficiency of in-line checkers. The end line checkers check the

garment thoroughly and only the pieces that are passed go to the next stage

of production.

The sewing sections have much more level of quality control than the cutting

section. Quality control is normally achieved by following methods:

Inline inspection

End line inspection

INLINE INSPECTION

Each production line has continuous quality checking (100 %) at various

points where more quality control is required. In this unit there are 2-3 inline

checkers in one production line. Normally they are placed at following

positions:

Collar checking

Cuff checking

Sleeve checking

Back checking

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Front checking

Feed off arm checking

Collar attach checking

These checkers belong to the quality department as such but are considered

to be a part of production department. These checkers are placed within the

line. They have slanting tables with light on top. They have to work in the

standing position. Every bundle has to pass through the checker. Checker is

supposed to check each and every piece and return the defective piece back

to the concerned operator.

END LINE INSPECTION

End line inspection, as the name implies, is done at the end of the production

line. The person assigned this job belongs to the quality assurance

department.

A table similar to the one provided to the inline checker. This person is

supposed to check each and every piece that is being produced in the line. In

this factory, there is one person for end line inspection in each production line.

All instructions regarding checking are pasted above the table of the end line

checker. After checking the pieces, the checker puts the approved pieces in a

plastic bin under the table. From there, the pieces are taken for finishing.

Records regarding number of pieces sent to finishing, number of defective

pieces, etc is maintained at this location. At this point, only major things are

checked and all the parts are not checked very closely for defects. The End

Line inspection involves preparing SPC- Attributes Control Chart.

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QUALITY SYSTEM

FABRIC QC

Receive Head ends of the fabric to be supplied by the suppliers for all

the buyers style-wise and arrange for shade and shrinkage tests.

Make cards with fabric cutting for face side for the bulk fabric receipts

and obtain approval from the BMC. The face side approvals must be

handed over to cutting dept via issues section.

Upon the receipt of fabric offered for mandatory inspection by the

fabric receiving section, necessary bits for shrinkage and Shade

purposes to be removed from the marked rolls and send the same to

lab and washing sections for the purpose of shrinkage test and shade

banding.

Shrinkage test for unwashed program to check for 10% and all wash

programs for 100% of fabric received.

Make shade bands for washed bits and unwashed bits and forward the

same for BMC approval/comments. The quantity against each shade

should be mentioned in the shade card.

Organize 100% fabric mandatory inspection make checking report on 4

point system. The checking reports are to be sent to the BMC

concerned.

All fabric in the roll form should be checked on fabric checkmate

machines, fabrics in takka form, lining and pocketing fabrics to check in

the tables meant for that purpose.

Monitor the fabric checking in the fabric checkmate machines; collect

the cutting of various fabric defects to be sent along with the NCR.

Mark the rejected fabric rolls with a red tape and keep separately and

inform the same to the issues section.

Prepare NCR (non conformance report) as per the specified format.

The summary of defects with points mentioned, and any major defect

has to be highlighted by grading the fabric in the report. The BMC or

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any competent person’s comments /advice on the NCR to be carefully

monitored and the same to be communicated to the factory effectively.

Hand over the face side card, NCR, shrinkage report and shade bands

to the fabric issues section for favor of forwarding the same to

production units.

TRIMS QC

Receive the total receipts from the receiving section with the copy of

the documents.

Receive the master trim card with specimens from trim-receiving

section with complete details like description, color, quantity, supplied

from, P.O. number, date of receipt, style etc., and upon verification by

the Trims-In-Charge. Forward the same to the BMC via the manager

warehouse. Proper register is to be maintained in this connection.

The minimum qty. to be checked is 10%, subject to enhancement

advice by the BMC. At times it may be even 100%.

The QC report must highlight the rejections, damages, shortages and

the qty unchecked etc.

The trims QC section is the custodian of all the approval cards sent by

BMC. The approval cards must be accessible at any point of time to

refer any dispute/clarification.

All the checked items must be kept in an area allotted for that purpose

and plastic pallets have to be used for storing at the QC area.

However, the checked goods, including rejections are to be forwarded

to the issuing sections within 24 hours of checking. All checked cartons

must have proper identification for traceability.

Cutting QC

Cutting QC inspects the lay against the hard patterns. If any defect is

found immediately informed to the pattern department to rectifying the

same.

In cut panel, the top ply is checked with hard pattern for cutting

perfection (TOL ± 1/8”) middle and bottom plies with the top ply.

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To ensure that all notches are in correct position as marked in the hard

patterns.

In numbering area, to ensure that the cut panel identification numbers

are in sequence.

In fusing, the fusing quality includes setting the fusing temperature,

pressure and time based on the type of fabric and interlining as per the

instruction given in the tech pack.

IN LINE CHECK POINTS

Quality manager/garment technician must identify the critical

checkpoints and it is highlighted during preproduction meeting.

Line QA explains the key areas to the checkers against approved

sample.

To ensure the machine setting against approved mock-ups.

Line QA analyzing the checkers report about critical defects. If any

defect is found from the 7 panels, the QA will stop the operation and

the red disc will hang at the concerned sewing machine.

END OF LINE QC

End of line checkers carry out 100% inspection on hourly production of

the line.

Follow visual SOP attached on the inspection table.

Must have relevant training about the defect analysis prior to carryout

any end of line inspection.

ROVING QC

Roving QC to visit each operation and inspect 7 pieces recording all

relevant details on the roving QC daily report.

The roving QC must start everyday by analyzing the previous day

reports to prioritize the critical areas of problem on which he has to

conduct the inspection.

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The problems found in the inspection should be immediately informed

to the line supervisor for corrective action.

While inspecting each operator’s pieces, the operator technical

standard must be used to carry out a comparison and to ensure that

everything is a standard requirement

SEWING AUDIT

Ten garments are randomly pulled out from the hourly production from

each line and carryout the audit. If any defects found from the 10

garments the entire hourly returned to the concerned line checker for

checking the entire hourly production.

FINISHING QC

To carry out the random audit in the finished product passed by the

checkers.

To ensure that the critical measurements are within the tolerance.

FINAL AUDIT

Final audit is done as per buyer sampling plan.

Every 250, 500 or 1000 pieces lot is inspected by the internal QA on a

daily basis.

Measurement audit is compulsory in the batch wise/lot wise inspection.

Auditors on a daily basis to ensure packed goods are meeting AQL

standards and approved to be offer to external QA’s for final inspection

of goods.

Final statistical auditor assists the nominated QA, who is responsible to

ensure all the departments are following the buyer specifications and

standards in the concerned departments.

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SHIPMENT

After the packaging of the garments, the cartons are put over a strapping roll

machine and they are wound by a strap. After this these cartons are arranged

buyer wise and kept in the quarantine area and are ready to be dispatched.

The process flow of dispatching is as follows:

Company

CFS

(Central freight station)

Customs clearance

Goods put in the container

Closed container

Goes to harbor

Ship

Different buyers have their nominated forwarders for shipping the goods. They

are as follows:

Timberland: APL

Kohls: ECMS (expeditors)

Academy: ECMS (expeditors)

Eddie Bauer: ECMS (expeditors)

LLBean: APL

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These buyer countries and their code dealt by the company are

EU - Europe

AP - Asia Pacific

AN - Argentina

VE - Venejuela

PA - Panama

BZ - Brazil

Software called Sean pack system is used to print the stickers for the

Timberland Buyer that uses xml files to print the barcode on the stickers. In

this system, the pack one system is used that takes the input of the p.o. and

then generates the code.

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PROJECT – 1

SYNOPSIS

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AIM: - To observe and understand the processes of the cutting room,

improvise the SOP and to find out the problems and suggesting the feasible

solutions for the same.

Scope of the Project: - The scope of this project was to observe the cutting

room for two weeks and get thorough understanding of all the processes

going on there. We had to find out the problems in those processes and

suggesting the feasible solutions for those problems. Finally, we had to

improve the Standard operating procedure being followed in the cutting room

of the company.

Methodology

Study all the processes starting from spreading to fusing and then

bundling.

Note down the causes due to which problem is occurring and that is

decreasing the productivity of the cutting room.

Think of the possible solutions and document the same.

Understand the standard operating procedure being followed.

Suggest the improved standard operating procedure.

PROCESS FLOW

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Spreading

Marker making

Cutting

Refolding

Relaying

Ready cutting

Ticketing

Fusing

Bundling

Issue to line

CONSIDERATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

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Spreading

1. The takka used for spreading are kept on a mat on floor due to which

workers have to apply more force to pull the fabric for laying. Moreover the

workers pass over the takka which leads to soiling of the fabric.

The takka can be kept on a table which will help the workers in laying and

the fabric would also not get dirty.

2. At the time of laying, the spreading operators remove tension using a

wooden stick but this does not removes the creases on the layer and they

often leave the layer with creases and fabric bulging at some places. This

leads to some parts being cut smaller or larger then the actual size and the

operators have to do the sizing of the parts with scissors. Bowing also

occurs due to uneven tension.

As the unit mostly gets the order for checks or plaids, so pin table can be

used. By using the pin table bowing and check matching problem will be

solved and the cost incurred will be overweighed by the reduced number

of processes and it will decrease the chances of panels being cut big or

small. It will prove a good return on investment for the company.

3. The end cutting of layers is done manually which causes uneven ends,

disturbs the tension and leads to weakening of yarns at the end of the

layer.

End cutter can be used for cutting the end of each layer which will

uniformly cut the fabric.

4. The defects are unprocessed at the time of spreading

While spreading the full fabric can be seen by the workers which is a good

opportunity to spot the defects, so at this time defects can be marked

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using stickers and the lay number in which the defect occurred can be

noted down, so that at the time of panel checking the defects are not

overlooked.

5. The end bits that are left after spreading are kept without writing any

identification on them.

The takka number and the lay from which the end bit is left can be written

on the end bit. This will ensure the cutting of the defective part from the

same takka avoiding the shade variation between the parts of a garment.

6. The varying width of fabric causes wastage. Marker is made to the cut able

width of fabric, but due to the varying width of fabric 2-3% is wasted as

end of ply losses and as fabric represents 40-50% of the cost of fabric, so

wastage in spreading should be eliminated.

This can be done by establishing standards for ends wastage and the

practices in cutting room should be regularly monitored and there should be

tight control over ply ends maintained. It is better to plan markers according

to the varying width of the fabric and to sort the pieces in batches according to

the measured width –additional labour cost are outweighed by the material

savings.

Marking and Cutting

1. After making the marker the number of parts are not counted and checked

due to which some parts are missed out from the marker and that have to

be cut separately from the end bits.

The pattern pieces should be counted and verified. The grain line should

also be checked.

2. The cut parts that are to be refolded or bundled are stored under the table

which leads to soiling, crushing of parts. The parts are kept under any

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table due to which sometimes workers have to search. The space under

the table is also not utilized to its full capacity.

The racks can be made under the tables which will help in keeping the

parts systematically. The curtains can be made from the unused fabric end

bits and can be used at the sides of the table to keep the parts neat and

clean.

3. The big panels are heavy and it is difficult for workers to move them from

one table to other alone, due to which they have to take the help of some

other worker which causes disturbance.

Trolley can be used for movement of heavy panels. It will help workers to

move the parts alone without disturbing the other operators.

4. For drilling the garment parts, everytime the operators have to bring the

cardboard and fix it on the table where drilling has to be done due to which

time and resources are wasted. This is done to prevent holes on the table.

A cardboard can be fixed in hanging form on one edge of every cutting

table which can be lifted up and used at the time of drilling.

5. After band knife cutting, the cut parts are kept on the table itself. For

collecting the cut parts the ticketing operator has to come to take those

pieces as it hinders the movement of pieces on the band knife table.

A rack or table can be installed near the band knife machine, so that after

cutting the parts can be kept there.

Ticketing

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Tickets used for different sizes are same which may lead to mixing of sizes.

Different colors can be used for different sizes which will avoid the mixing

of sizes.

1. Sometimes tickets are removed from the garment parts which lead to

mixing and mismatching of parts.

Tickets with good adhesive can be used which won’t remove while

handling of parts.

2. The workers sticks the unused or damaged tickets on the table which

leaves the gum stain on the table and these tickets can also stick to other

parts.

A polybag should be hanged on the edge of the table near the worker and

the worker should be told to dispose the tickets in the polybag.

Assorting and Bundling

1. The bundles ready for sewing are kept in racks. Every rack should contain

a card on which the buyer, style number and number of bundles of each

part in that rack should be written. Every time a bundle is added or taken

should be recorded on the card.

REMARKS:

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1. In the cutting room every operator should be allocated a specific job. This

will facilitate the supervisor to evaluate each operator according to his job

and it will be easy to identify the performance levels of the operators. The

operators would also be responsible for the work they do and it will in turn

increase their efficiency.

2. As the company is now planning to follow the lean manufacturing, 5S

should be followed as it is a part of lean. It is a method of maintaining

clean and organized work place. The operators should be educated about

this and posters should be put in order to make them understand the

objectives of 5S.

Kaizen box should be installed in order to get ideas and suggestions from

the employees and workers for improving the workplace.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT PROCEDURE

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Check the lot nos. of the received fabric.

Maintain lay length given in CAD marker leaving 2 cm allowance at two

ends.

Check face side of the fabric before spreading.

Layer the lot wise fabric for cutting to be cut in desired ratio.

Check layer height.

Select approval pattern for cutting and confirm style no., width, size

and number of parts etc.

Make the marker on the lay leaving allowance for knife movement.

Mark part name and size on each panel for the identification after the

panels have been cut.

Before cutting check marker for correction of sizes and parts against

lay slip.

Inspect the top, middle, and bottom Panels for the cutting accuracy.

Number the panels with size, and panel no.

Allot size wise and lot wise serial number before sow bar stickering.

Check all major panels for fabric defects and re-cut and replace the

defective panels using end bits of same takka/rolls used for lay cutting.

Set fusing machine for temperature, pressure and speed as mentioned

in interlining test report.

Ensure correctness of parts, fusing material to be fused referring R&D

comments.

Record once in every two hours the standards of temperature,

pressure in prescribed format.

Test fusing temperature using temperature strip bond strength on

actual fabric bit and preserve the same.

Bundle the numbered panels.

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Issue to the production lines.

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR CUTTING ROOM

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1. Check the lot nos. and width of the received fabric and segregate the

fabrics with a width difference of more than 2 cm.

2. Maintain lay length given in CAD marker leaving 2 cm allowance at two

ends.

3. Check face side of fabric before spreading.

4. Layer the lot wise and width wise fabric for cutting to be cut in desired

ratio. Use end cutter for cutting the layer end after spreading each layer.

5. If any defect is found in any layer, put a sticker on the defect and record

the style number, color, lay number, layer number and the type of defect

found in that layer.

6. Check layer height and tally the number of layers to lay slip given.

7. Write style number, color, takka number, lay number and length of end bit

on the end bits of fabric takka used for fabric.

8. Make the marker on the lay leaving allowance for knife movement.

9. Mark part name and size on each panel for the identification after the cut

panels.

10.Check style number, color, lay number and number of sizes before cutting.

11.Before cutting check marker for correction of sizes and parts against lay

slip.

12.Check for notches of panels and shape of cut panels picking top, middle

and bottom panel of each bundle using hard copy of panels.

13.Adhere to stickering placement as decided in PPM.

14.Use different colored tickets for every size in one style. Check the panels

for ticket placement and the numbering on the tickets.

15.Allot size wise and lot wise serial number before sow bar stickering.

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16.Check all major panels for fabric defects and re-cut and replace the panels

using end bits of same takka/rolls used for lay cutting referring the sticker

on the end bits.

17.Set fusing machine for temperature, pressure and speed as mentioned in

interlining test report.

18.Ensure correctness of parts, fusing material to be fused referring R&D

comments.

19.Record once in every two hours the standards of temperature, pressure in

prescribed format.

20.Test fusing temperature using temperature strip bond strength on actual

fabric bit and preserve the same.

21.Refer style sample to identify the cut parts before starting and bundling.

22.Keep the bundled parts in assigned racks and update the number of

bundles in that rack on the card hanging at each rack.

23. Issue the bundles to the production lines and record the number of

bundles sent to the production lines.

FORMAT FOR RECORDING THE DEFECTS

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                   CELEBRITY FASHIONS LIMITED    DEFECTS SLIP     

  SR NO.STYLE 

NUMBER COLOR TAKKA NO. LAY NUMBER LAYER NUMBERTYPE OF DEFECT  

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

FORMAT FOR BUNDLE TRACKING

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    CELEBRITY FASHIONS LIMITED         

  BUNDLE RECORD CARD       DATE: STYLE NUMBER/COLOR:    LINE:     

  SR. NO. PART TOTAL BUNDLES AFTER ADDING BUNDLES SENT BALANCE  

  IN RACK BUNDLES FOR SEWING    1 RIGHT FRONT          2 LEFT FRONT            3 BACK            4 YOKE            5 SLEEVE            6 CUFF            7 COLLAR            8 BIND            9 SMALL PATTI            10 SLEEVE PATTI            11 FRONT PATTI            12 POCKET            13 FLAP            14 GUSSET            15              16              17              18              19              20                           

STICKER FOR END BITS

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STYLE NUMBER:

COLOR: LENGTH OF END BIT:

  TAKKA NUMBER: LAY NUMBER:

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PROJECT - 2

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SYNOPSIS

Aim: To study the style changeover process and suggest the ways to

minimize the set-up time losses.

Scope Of The Project: The scope of the project was to observe the line

layout of old style, the setting done for the new style like machine setting,

issuing of trims etc. , and the line layout for new style. It also involves

observing the internal and external elements, critical areas in the new style,

noting the lap time (difference between beginning of new operation and

ending of old operation) and style changeover time and suggesting the

methods to reduce the set-up time losses.

Methodology:

Observing the current changeover process and identifying the internal and

external activities.

Identifying the cause and effect and analysing them.

Optimising start-up time, converting activities from internal to external set

up and increasing the efficiency of external and remaining internal

activities.

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INTRODUCTION

A changeover is the complete process of changing between the

manufacture of one product to the manufacture of an alternative product to

the point of meeting specified production and quality rates.

It consists of three phases:

1) Run-down period- It is the interval when production of old product is

complete but set up for new product cannot be started as some of the

pieces of old product are inline for alterations or waiting for some parts/

trims. In ideal situations, run-down period should be zero. For example,

production of 5 Pocket Denim Pant is finished but some of the pieces are

inline for alterations and for some other pieces waistbands are missing. So

Run-down period will stretch till all the pieces are out from the line.

2) Set-up period- It is defined as interval when no manufacturing occurs.

In this phase, the equipments are being adjusted to manufacture new

product. This interval is critical, because there is no output from the line,

and potential revenues are lost. There are two kinds of activities required

to carry out a changeover: Internal and External activities.

Internal Activities: These are the activities which are performed in the

interval when no product is being manufactured. For example, when

sewing machines present inline are being set for gauge, SPI, folder

adjustment etc. for a new style F/S Shirt, at that time no production is

happening in line. The time taken to complete all the internal activities

constitutes set-up Period.

External Activities: These are the activities which can be performed

outside the line without disturbing the production inline. For example, pre

setting of a sewing machine for the Style B or early loading of cut parts

without disturbing the production of running Style A.

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Full Production of A

Run-Down Period Run-Up Period

Manufacture of A

Manufacture of B commences

Manufacture of B reaches set output and quality rates

Tc = Total Elapsed Changeover Time

3) Run-up period- It starts when production is commenced again and

continues until consistent output at full capacity occurs. It is often difficult

to determine at what point full production capacity is reached as the line

performance is still fluctuating at this time. It is quite likely that the

production line will be halted at intervals during the run-up period as

adjustments still take place at this point of time. For example, production of

denims of new style ‘B’ has started but output from a particular operation is

very low because it is a new

operation. So, the interval till the consistent output is achieved at that

operation constitutes run-up period.

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SMED: Single Minute Exchange of Die

Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED) is one of the lean tools for reducing

waste in a manufacturing process. It provides a rapid and efficient way of

converting a manufacturing process from running the current product to

running the next product. This rapid changeover is essential to reduce

production lot sizes and thereby improve flow which is a Lean aim. It is also

often referred to as Quick Changeover (QCO). The phrase single minute does

not mean that all changeovers and startups should take only one minute, but

that they should take less than 10 minutes (in other words, "single digit

minute").

Shigeo Shingo, who created the SMED approach, claims that in his data from

between 1975 and 1985 that average setup times he has dealt with have

reduced to 2.5% of the time originally required; a 40 times improvement.

However, the power of SMED is that it has a lot of other effects which come

from systematically looking at operations; these include:

Stockless production which drives capital turnover rates,

Reduction in footprint of processes with reduced inventory freeing

floor space

Productivity increases or reduced production time

Increased machine work rates from reduced setup times even if

number of changeovers increases

Elimination of setup errors and elimination of trial runs reduces

defect rates

Improved quality from fully regulated operating conditions in

advance

Increased safety from simpler setups

Simplified housekeeping from fewer tools and better organisation

Lower expense of setups

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Operator preferred since easier to achieve

Lower skill requirements since changes are now designed into the

process rather than a matter of skilled judgement

Elimination of unusable stock from model changeovers and demand

estimate errors

Goods are not lost through deterioration

Ability to mix production gives flexibility and further inventory

reductions as well as opening the door to revolutionised production

methods

New attitudes on controlability of work process amongst staff

Steps of SMED

Theoretically SMED is defined in four steps:

1. Suppress useless operations

2. Work together

3. Simplify fittings and fasteners

4. Suppress adjustments and trials

SMED methodology can be easily defined in six steps. It consists of:

Observing the current changeover process

Identifying internal and external activities

Converting activities from internal to external set up

Increasing efficiency of the remaining internal activities

Optimizing the start up time

Increasing efficiency of external activities

There are series of activities which should be performed before changeover to

reduce the set up time. All these activities are important and should be

performed timely by the responsible person. These activities can be divided in

three phases:

Planning Phase: The activities in this phase are essential prerequisite to

the activities of preparatory phase.

Preparation Phase: The activities in this phase involve completion of

external activities.

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Operating Phase: The activities in this phase involve execution of

changeover.

STEP-1

Observing the current changeover process and identifying the internal and external activities.

The changeover process of four styles was observed and the lap time

between operations was noted down. After that the activities were

distinguished between external and internal events.

External Operations are those that can be made when the equipment is

running. 

Internal Operations can only be made when the equipment is stopped.  

The time is reduced by eliminating from the time of internal preparation all the

operations that can be made while the equipment is still working. This it is the

first step in the improvements. It is a line in which impressive improvements

can be achieved.

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SET UP TIME LOSS FOR STYLE-1

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SET UP TIME LOSS FOR STYLE-2

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SET UP TIME LOSS FOR STYLE-3

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SET UP TIME LOSS FOR STYLE-4

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STEP-2

Cause and effect analysis- Ishikawa Diagram

Ishikawa diagrams (also called fishbone diagrams or cause-and-effect

diagrams) are diagrams that show the causes of a certain event. Common

uses of the Ishikawa diagram are product design and quality defect

prevention, to identify potential factors causing an overall effect. Each cause

or reason for imperfection is a source of variation. Causes are usually

grouped into major categories to identify these sources of variation.

The categories typically include:

Man: Anyone involved with the process

Methods: How the process is performed and the specific requirements for

doing it, such as policies, procedures, rules, regulations and laws

Machines: Any equipment, computers, tools etc. required to accomplish

the job

Materials: Raw materials, parts, pens, paper, etc. used to produce the final

product

The 5 Ms (used in manufacturing)

Machine (technology)

Method (process/inspection)

Material (raw, consumables etc.)

Man Power (physical work)/Mind Power (brain work)

Money

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Percentage of 4 M’s in set up time lossStyle-1

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Percentage of 4 M’s in set up time lossStyle-2

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Percentage of 4 M’s in set up time lossStyle-3

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Percentage of 4 M’s in set up time lossStyle-4

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STEP – 3

Optimizing start-up time, Converting activities from internal to external set up and increasing the efficiency of external and remaining internal activities.

1. PLANNING PHASE

Line Plan

Planning of line plan should be done in a manner that loading of upcoming

style will occur four days after receiving updated line plan. Loading of styles

similar to previous running styles in the respective lines helps in achieving

quicker changeover and better productivity.

Operation Bulletin

Operation Bulletin of upcoming style should be revised on the basis of line

plan by IE 3 days prior to style loading. Operation Bulletin developed at

sampling room should be crosschecked with the reference sample by IE

executive and updated for required changes. After finalizing operation bulletin,

Machine layout should be developed by IE Executive.

Mock Sample

Supervisor should be informed about upcoming style, on the basis of line

plan, 3 days prior to style loading, to prepare the mock sample. It is the replica

of upcoming style in terms of design details. The purpose of mock sample

preparation is to make supervisor acquainted with all the operations. It is

beneficial as it helps in early identification of:

Critical operations

Necessary templates.

Method details

Preparation of mock sample should be completed on the same day.

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Machine Plan

Machine Plan preparation is a fundamental planning tool for SMED. It involves

internal and external element segregation for new style by comparing

operation bulletin of old and new style. It should be prepared 3 days prior to

loading.

It is a record of:

Operation Type

Machine Type (Segregated as internal/external)

Machine Number

SPI

Required Settings

Critical/External Independent Operation

Additional Operator/Helper

Status Check

Status of Cutting and Trims should be checked by the supervisor 3 days prior

to loading of new style and related issues should be discussed in Internal

PPM. It is necessary to check the status of all the inputs in advance, to

prevent off standard time arising due to waiting for raw material inline.

Internal Pre Production Meeting or Production startup meeting

Internal PPM should be held 2 days prior to style loading, after completion of

preliminary activities (OB, Mock sample & Status check). The purpose of

Internal PPM is to discuss new style in advance to anticipate problems and

their respective measures. The duration of PPM should be less than 10

minutes. Internal Pre Production Meeting is not mandatory for repeat styles.

Internal PPM should be held in the presence of:

Production Manager

Quality Head

Floor In-charge

Maintenance Head

Industrial Engineer.

Supervisor

Collar/cuff supervisor

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Line QC

Internal PPM involves discussion on following topics:

Mock Sample: Sample prepared by supervisor should be checked by

Quality Head and CTP (Critical to Production) operations should be

discussed.

Cutting and Trim status: Cutting and outsourcing status issues should be

discussed and Production Manager should be held responsible to get

them sorted. Trim status issues should be communicated to

merchandising department by Production Manager.

Quality Specifications: CTQ (Critical to Quality) operations and PP

comments are discussed by Quality Head. Any changes in the

specifications from the reference sample should also be conveyed.

Machine, Folder and Attachment Status: Requirement for any new folder,

attachment or machine for new style, analyzed during machine plan

preparation, is also discussed by IE in the meeting. The order should be

placed for the same after crosschecking with maintenance department on

the same day.

Template Preparation: QC should discuss about templates required.

Operator Allocation Plan: Based on the machine plan Floor In-charge will

decide operator allocation. Only discussion for operator allocation at

critical operations is held in the meeting.

A PPM report should be documented in the meeting by Industrial Engineer

and concerned issues are solved by the responsible persons. Machine plan is

handed over to maintenance department in the Internal PPM. All the concerns

regarding upcoming style are discussed and solved in Internal PPM.

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2. PREPARATION PHASE

External Machine Setting

External machines should be set by the mechanic according to the machine

plan. The settings should be complete a day prior to loading of new style.

Machine setting includes:

Gauge change

Folder/ Presser Foot change,

Needle addition /removal

SPI adjustment

Programming

The stitch quality should be approved by Quality Checker. After completion of

machine setting the machine should be tagged indicating the line and style for

which the machine is set.

Preparatory Section Status

Preparatory Section status should be checked by supervisor one day prior to

style loading and problems should be discussed with preparatory head and

solved to get timely loading.

Template Preparation

Patterns should be issued by supervisor one day prior to style loading. The

number of patterns should be checked and requirements of any other pattern

should be communicated to CAD/ Sampling room immediately. The templates

should be prepared by supervisor and approved by QC.

Sketches preparation

The technical sketches explaining the critical operations should be prepared

by the line incharge one day prior to style loading. These sketches should be

hanged at the respective machines at the day of style loading. This will help

the operators to clearly understand the operations and they will commit less

mistakes.

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Day of Changeover:

Inline Loading

Trims Issue

Trims like threads, zippers labels, buttons etc. should be issued at least 2

hours before old style ends at first operation.

Cut part loading

Cut part loading should also be done at the same time. It should be checked

by feeding helper while loading if all the parts are present. Parts coming from

preparatory section should be counted before loading so that any missing

parts can be communicated to preparatory section at the earliest. Early inline

loading is necessary to reduce the off standard time.

Style Change Analysis

Style change analysis report should be documented for each style by IE

person to analyze the problems faced during the changeover. All the

problems faced during style analysis should be discussed in the style review

meeting which will be held a day after completion of changeover.

3. OPERATING PHASE

This phase constitutes the execution of changeover process. In order to

reduce the set up time, independent operations should be started before

loading of new style and the operators should be involved in the changeover

process. Supervisor should be alert and should assure that the mechanic is

available on time and the internal setting is being done according to the line

plan and machine plan.

Increasing efficiency of internal activities

Template preparation should be done before style loading

Cut part and trims should be issued before loading

Sketches for critical and difficult operations should be prepared and given

to workers.

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Simplify adjustments and settings by involving the operators in the task.

The operators should be trained to change the presser foot and needle so

that they do not have to wait for the mechanic and time can be saved.

There should be a meeting of supervisor with the operators prior to style

loading in which the details about new style should be discussed. This will

motivate them and they will like to be a part of the process.

Work group should be formed for each style changeover that will be fully

responsible for that style. Making a team will speed up the task and it will

be easy to identify the problem causing element.

Increasing efficiency of External activities

This can be done by following the 5S principle and kaizen.

5S is a process and method for creating and maintaining an organized, clean,

and high performance workplace. 5S enables anyone to distinguish between

normal and abnormal conditions at a glance. 5S is the foundation for

continuous improvement, zero defects, cost reduction, and a safe work area.

It is a systematic way to improve the workplace, our processes and our

products through production line employee involvement. 5S can be used in

Six Sigma for quick wins as well as control. 5S should be one of the Lean

tools that should be implemented first. If a process is in total disarray, it does

not make sense to work on improvements. The process needs to be first

organized (stabilized) and then improved.

The 5 S’s are:

1. Sort – Clearly distinguish needed items from unneeded items and eliminate

the latter.

2. Straighten / Stabilize / Set in Order – Keep needed items in the correct

place to allow for easy and immediate retrieval

3. Shine – Keep the work area clean

4. Standardize – Develop standardized work processes to support the first

three steps

5. Sustain – Put processes in place to ensure that that the first four steps are

rigorously followed.

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Kaizen is a Japanese word that means to break apart to change or modify

(Kai) to make things better (Zen). Kaizen is used to make small continuous

improvements in the workplace to reduce cost, improve quality and delivery. It

is particularly suitable when the solution is simple and can be obtained using

a team based approach. Kaizen assembles small cross functional teams

aimed at improved a process or problem in a specific area. It is usually a

focused 3 to 5 days event that relies on implementing “quick” and “do it now”

type solutions.

Kaizen focuses on eliminating the wastes in a process so that processes only

add value to the customer.

Some of the 7 wastes targeted by Kaizen teams are:

- Waiting/Idle Time/Search time (look for items, wait for elements or

instructions to be delivered)

- Correction (defects/rework & scrap ‐ doing the same job more than once)

- Transportation (excess movement of material or information)

- Over‐production (building more than required)

- Over‐processing (processing more than what is required or sufficient)

- Excess Motion (excess human movements at workplace)

- Storage/warehousing (excess inventory)

The benefits of doing Kaizen are less direct or indirect labour requirements,

less space requirements, increased flexibility, increased quality, increased

responsiveness, and increased employee enthusiasm.

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EXPERIENCE

The eight week internship done at Celebrity Fashions Pvt. Ltd. has been a

great learning process for us as an apparel manufacturing students of NIFT.

During our stay in the organization we observed different departments and

their daily functioning and the process flow. We were also able to work on live

projects that has been an immense training value for us and helped us in

having better understanding of garment manufacturing process.

This internship gave us an opportunity to see in practical whatever we have

learnt in theory and to understand the problems faced by different department

in meeting the shioppment dates and delivieries, giving us deeper insight to

the industry as well as practical experience of working in the industry.

It helped us to learn and improve our interpersonal communication skills with

colleagues, peer groups and workers.Each and every experience in the

company helped us a lot inincreasing the knowledge both theoritically and

practically.

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CONCLUSION

During our internship we were able to inculcate wide range of knowledge

about the existing scenario of the garment industry, understanding the

functioning and the role played by various departments in meeting the delivery

schedules.

The various departments that exists in the company from administration to the

shipment were thoroughly studied with the good understanding.The

conclusion were drawn and suggestions were presented to the management,

who humbly accepted them.

To conclude, this internship proved to be a great learning in many aspects as

it gave us an opportunity to experiment and utilize the inputs imparted by the

institute.

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