Facials Chapter 23 – 12’. Good skin Makes a big difference in the way skin looks Makes a difference in the way a person feels about their appearance.

FacialsFacials

Chapter 23 – 12’Chapter 23 – 12’

Good skinGood skin

Makes a big difference in the way skin Makes a big difference in the way skin lookslooks

Makes a difference in the way a person Makes a difference in the way a person feels about their appearancefeels about their appearance

IntroductionIntroduction Oily skin Oily skin

CleanerCleaner HealthierHealthier

Dry skinDry skin Look Look Feel more moist & suppleFeel more moist & supple

Aging skinAging skin Look smootherLook smoother FirmerFirmer Less wrinkledLess wrinkled

Serve as an oasis in a busy dayServe as an oasis in a busy day Leaving client feeling refreshedLeaving client feeling refreshed Boost a person’s self-esteem and Boost a person’s self-esteem and

confidenceconfidence Change the way a person “faces” the Change the way a person “faces” the

worldworld Valuable service for clients who have Valuable service for clients who have

skin problems which cause anxietyskin problems which cause anxiety ““Focus on” page 710Focus on” page 710

Skin Analysis and Skin Analysis and ConsultationConsultation

Skin analysis determinesSkin analysis determines Skin typeSkin type Condition of skinCondition of skin Type of treatment neededType of treatment needed

Consultation - Ask client questionsConsultation - Ask client questions HealthHealth HistoryHistory Advise on home care products and Advise on home care products and

treatmentstreatments

ContraindicationContraindication

A condition that requires avoiding certain A condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures or products to treatments, procedures or products to prevent undesirable or negative side prevent undesirable or negative side effects effects

Caution box page 713Caution box page 713 Health screening form page 711 – 712Health screening form page 711 – 712

List of information page 715List of information page 715

Focus on page 713Focus on page 713 List of contraindications page 714List of contraindications page 714 Caution box page 715Caution box page 715 Contraindications Grid/Table 23-1 page Contraindications Grid/Table 23-1 page

714714

Treatment RecordsTreatment Records

ObservationsObservations ContraindicationsContraindications Secured filing cabinetSecured filing cabinet Each visitEach visit

treatmentstreatments observationsobservations purchasespurchases

Analysis ProcedureAnalysis Procedure

Carefully read health screening formCarefully read health screening form Discuss any questionsDiscuss any questions Client change into smock and remove Client change into smock and remove

jewelry – lock in safe placejewelry – lock in safe place Cosmetologist/esthetician remove own Cosmetologist/esthetician remove own

jewelryjewelry Drape clientDrape client

Recline into chairRecline into chair Cleanse the faceCleanse the face Cover eyes Cover eyes Look under magnifying lampLook under magnifying lamp

Determining Skin TypeDetermining Skin Type

Skin type - determined by how oily or drySkin type - determined by how oily or dry HereditaryHereditary Cannot be permanently changed with Cannot be permanently changed with

treatmentstreatments

Skin conditions – characteristics of the Skin conditions – characteristics of the skin associated with a particular skin typeskin associated with a particular skin type

Look for presence or absence of visible Look for presence or absence of visible porespores

Amount sebum produced determines Amount sebum produced determines size of poressize of pores

HereditaryHereditary Obvious pores – oilyObvious pores – oily Lack of visible pores - dryLack of visible pores - dry

Skin TypesSkin Types

Alipidic – “lack of lipids”Alipidic – “lack of lipids” Dry skinDry skin Does not produce enough sebum to prevent Does not produce enough sebum to prevent

evaporation of cell moistureevaporation of cell moisture

Dehydration indicates lack of moistureDehydration indicates lack of moisture Flaky or dry lookingFlaky or dry looking Small fine lines and wrinklesSmall fine lines and wrinkles Any skin typeAny skin type Feel itchy or tightFeel itchy or tight

Oily skinOily skin Produces too much sebumProduces too much sebum Large poresLarge pores

Open comedones (blackheads)Open comedones (blackheads) Mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell Mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell

build up build up

Closed comedones Closed comedones Small bumps beneath skin surfaceSmall bumps beneath skin surface Solidified sebum and dead cell buildup Solidified sebum and dead cell buildup Table 23 – 2 page 716Table 23 – 2 page 716

Difference between open & closed Difference between open & closed comedonescomedones Size of follicle openingSize of follicle opening OstiumOstium Open comedone has large ostiumOpen comedone has large ostium Closed comedone has small ostiumClosed comedone has small ostium

AcneAcne

Pimples in oily areasPimples in oily areas Disorder – follicle becomes cloggedDisorder – follicle becomes clogged

Infection of the follicle with redness and Infection of the follicle with redness and inflammationinflammation

Caution box – page 717Caution box – page 717

Acne bacteria Acne bacteria anaerobicanaerobic – cannot survive in the presence – cannot survive in the presence

of oxygenof oxygen Survive from breaking down sebum into fatty Survive from breaking down sebum into fatty

acidsacids Acne papules – red pimples that do not have Acne papules – red pimples that do not have

a pus heada pus head Pustules – pimples with a pus headPustules – pimples with a pus head Pus – fluid made up of dead white blood Pus – fluid made up of dead white blood

cellscells

Analysis of the SkinAnalysis of the Skin

Conditions are generally treatableConditions are generally treatable DehydrationDehydration

Flaky areasFlaky areas Skin wrinkles easily on the surfaceSkin wrinkles easily on the surface Lack of careLack of care Improper or overdrying skin care productsImproper or overdrying skin care products Sun exposureSun exposure

Treat byTreat by Using hydratorsUsing hydrators Alipidic skin – treatments heavier in textureAlipidic skin – treatments heavier in texture Oilier skin – treatments are lighter weightOilier skin – treatments are lighter weight

HyperpigmentationHyperpigmentation Dark blotches of colorDark blotches of color Sun exposure or hormone imbalancesSun exposure or hormone imbalances Mild exfoliationMild exfoliation Home care productsHome care products Daily use of sunscreen Daily use of sunscreen Avoidance of sun exposureAvoidance of sun exposure

Sensitive skinSensitive skin Thin, red-pink colorThin, red-pink color Turn red easily Turn red easily Easily inflamedEasily inflamed Avoid strong cleansersAvoid strong cleansers Fragranced productsFragranced products Strong exfoliantsStrong exfoliants

Rosacea – chronic hereditary disorder Rosacea – chronic hereditary disorder indicated by constant or frequent indicated by constant or frequent blushingblushing Dilated capillaries present – telangiectasis or Dilated capillaries present – telangiectasis or

couperosecouperose Considered a medical disorder - Considered a medical disorder -

dermatologistdermatologist

Treat with gentle products & treatmentsTreat with gentle products & treatments Avoid treatments that release heat or Avoid treatments that release heat or

stimulate the skinstimulate the skin

Aging skinAging skin Loss of elasticityLoss of elasticity Skin tends to sag around eyes and jawlineSkin tends to sag around eyes and jawline Treatments hydrate and exfoliateTreatments hydrate and exfoliate

Sun-damaged skinSun-damaged skin Chronically & frequently exposed over Chronically & frequently exposed over

lifetimelifetime Many areas of hyperpigmentationMany areas of hyperpigmentation Wrinkled areas, sagging skin – damage to Wrinkled areas, sagging skin – damage to

elastic fiberselastic fibers Looks olderLooks older

Skin Care ProductsSkin Care Products

Cleansing ProductsCleansing Products To clean the skin surface and remove To clean the skin surface and remove

makeupmakeup

2 types:2 types: MilksMilks FoamingFoaming

Face wash – detergent type foaming Face wash – detergent type foaming cleansercleanser

Neutral or slightly acidic pHNeutral or slightly acidic pH Foaming action of bar soapFoaming action of bar soap Rinses off completely – leaving skin Rinses off completely – leaving skin

feeling fresh, but slightly tightfeeling fresh, but slightly tight

Oily – combination oily skin typeOily – combination oily skin type Cuts excessive amounts of oilCuts excessive amounts of oil For acne-prone skin – an antimicrobial For acne-prone skin – an antimicrobial

agent is used to kill bacteriaagent is used to kill bacteria Danger of face wash is that it can over dry Danger of face wash is that it can over dry

the skinthe skin

Cleansing LotionCleansing Lotion Formulated to remove makeup and soilFormulated to remove makeup and soil Water-based emulsion Water-based emulsion

Cleansing MilksCleansing Milks Non-foamingNon-foaming Dry and sensitive skinDry and sensitive skin Must be removed with water (sponge, cloth Must be removed with water (sponge, cloth

etc,)etc,)

Foaming CleansersFoaming Cleansers Contain surfactants (detergents)Contain surfactants (detergents) Combination and oiler skin typesCombination and oiler skin types Used quickly/easily in showerUsed quickly/easily in shower Some have antibacterial ingredientsSome have antibacterial ingredients

TonersToners AstringentsAstringents FreshenersFresheners Rebalance pHRebalance pH Ingredients to help soothe or hydrateIngredients to help soothe or hydrate May contain and exfoliants to remove dead May contain and exfoliants to remove dead

cell buildupcell buildup Stronger productsStronger products Higher alcohol contentHigher alcohol content Used for oilier type skinUsed for oilier type skin Alcohol-free –sprayed onto faceAlcohol-free –sprayed onto face

ExfoliantsExfoliants

Removal of dead cells from skinRemoval of dead cells from skin Skin appears smoother and clearerSkin appears smoother and clearer Help clear skin of clogged poresHelp clear skin of clogged pores Improve appearance of: Improve appearance of:

WrinklesWrinkles AgingAging HyperpigmentationHyperpigmentation

Cosmetologists – remove dead cells from Cosmetologists – remove dead cells from Stratum CorneumStratum Corneum

Dermatologists/Surgeons – deeper, Dermatologists/Surgeons – deeper, surgical-level- peelssurgical-level- peels

Caution Box page 719Caution Box page 719

Mechanical exfoliants – products used to Mechanical exfoliants – products used to physically remove dead cell buildupphysically remove dead cell buildup

Gommages - roll-off masks – peeling Gommages - roll-off masks – peeling creams that are rubbed off creams that are rubbed off

Microdermabrasion scrubs- contain Microdermabrasion scrubs- contain aluminum oxide crystals, with other aluminum oxide crystals, with other granular scrubs (mechanical exfoliants)granular scrubs (mechanical exfoliants)

Chemical ExfoliantsChemical Exfoliants

Contain chemicals the loosen or dissolve Contain chemicals the loosen or dissolve dead cell buildupdead cell buildup

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – gentle Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – gentle naturally occurring acids that remove naturally occurring acids that remove dead cell by dissolving the bonds and dead cell by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cellsintercellular cement between cells

As dead cells are removed over time:As dead cells are removed over time: Wrinkles appear less deepWrinkles appear less deep Skin discoloration may fadeSkin discoloration may fade Clogged pores are loosened and reducedClogged pores are loosened and reduced New clogs are preventedNew clogs are prevented Skin is smoother Skin is smoother More hydratedMore hydrated

AHA PeelsAHA Peels

20% – 30% of AHA20% – 30% of AHA Client must use a 10% AHA product at Client must use a 10% AHA product at

home for home for at least 2 weeks at least 2 weeks before salon before salon peel!peel!

AND using daily facial sunscreen AND using daily facial sunscreen productsproducts

Enzyme PeelsEnzyme Peels

Keratolytic enzymesKeratolytic enzymes Protein-dissolving agentsProtein-dissolving agents Dissolve the keratin protein in the surface Dissolve the keratin protein in the surface

cells of the skincells of the skin Made from plant-extracted enzymes from Made from plant-extracted enzymes from

papaya or pineapples or beef by-papaya or pineapples or beef by-productsproducts

2 Types of Enzyme Peels2 Types of Enzyme Peels

Cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) – Cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) – contain papayacontain papaya Applied – dried – rolled off skinApplied – dried – rolled off skin

Powdered enzyme peel – mixed with Powdered enzyme peel – mixed with water – applied – removed with towelswater – applied – removed with towels Does not dry the skinDoes not dry the skin Used with a steamerUsed with a steamer

Proper Exfoliation may Proper Exfoliation may improve skin’s improve skin’s appearanceappearance

Reduces clogged pores and skin oilinessReduces clogged pores and skin oiliness Promotes skin smoothnessPromotes skin smoothness Increases moisture content & hydrationIncreases moisture content & hydration Reduces hyperpigmentationReduces hyperpigmentation Decreases uneven skin colorDecreases uneven skin color Eliminates/softens wrinkles and fine linesEliminates/softens wrinkles and fine lines Increases elasticityIncreases elasticity

Proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnoverProper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover Allows for deeper penetration of Allows for deeper penetration of

treatment creams & serumstreatment creams & serums Makeup applies more evenlyMakeup applies more evenly Caution boxes page 720Caution boxes page 720

MoisturizersMoisturizers Products that help increase moisture Products that help increase moisture

content of skin surfacecontent of skin surface Help diminish fine lines & wrinklesHelp diminish fine lines & wrinkles MixturesMixtures

Humectants/hydratorsHumectants/hydrators Water-binding agents – ingredients that Water-binding agents – ingredients that

attract waterattract water Emollients – oily/fatty ingredients that Emollients – oily/fatty ingredients that

prevent moisture from leaving the skinprevent moisture from leaving the skin

Moisturizers – oily skinMoisturizers – oily skin Lotion formLotion form Less emollientsLess emollients

Moisturizers – dry skinMoisturizers – dry skin Heavier creamHeavier cream More emollientsMore emollients

Sensitive skin – soothing agentsSensitive skin – soothing agents Aging skin – AHA Aging skin – AHA SunscreenSunscreen

Cautions boxes – page 721Cautions boxes – page 721

Sunscreens & Day Sunscreens & Day Protection ProductsProtection Products

Shielding skin from sun exposure is Shielding skin from sun exposure is the most important habit to benefit the the most important habit to benefit the skinskin

Cumulative sun exposure causes the Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers and majority of skin cancers and prematurely ages the skinprematurely ages the skin

Use daily moisturizers that contain broad-Use daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreen – protects against spectrum sunscreen – protects against UVA & UVBUVA & UVB

SPF of 15 or higherSPF of 15 or higher SPF measures how long someone can SPF measures how long someone can

be exposed to the sun without burningbe exposed to the sun without burning

Combination skin – lotionsCombination skin – lotions Oily skin – fluidsOily skin – fluids Dry skin - creamsDry skin - creams

Night treatmentsNight treatments More intenseMore intense Design to treat specific skin problemsDesign to treat specific skin problems Heavier than day use productsHeavier than day use products Higher levels of conditioning ingredientsHigher levels of conditioning ingredients

SerumsSerums

Concentrated productsConcentrated products Contain higher concentrations of Contain higher concentrations of

ingredients designed to penetrate skin and ingredients designed to penetrate skin and treat various conditionstreat various conditions

Home useHome use Applied under moisturizer/sunscreenApplied under moisturizer/sunscreen Ampules – individual doses sealed in a Ampules – individual doses sealed in a

vial vial

Massage CreamsMassage Creams

Lubricants to make the skin slippery Lubricants to make the skin slippery during massageduring massage

Contain oils or petrolatumContain oils or petrolatum Thoroughly remove during a facial – Thoroughly remove during a facial –

prevents other products from penetratingprevents other products from penetrating Biggest benefit of massage is that it Biggest benefit of massage is that it

increases product absorption – increases increases product absorption – increases conditioning effect of treatment productsconditioning effect of treatment products

MasksMasks

MasquesMasques Concentrated treatment products Concentrated treatment products Composed of minerals claysComposed of minerals clays Moisturizing agentsMoisturizing agents Skin softenersSkin softeners Aromatherapy oilsAromatherapy oils Botanical extractsBotanical extracts

Other ingredients to cleanseOther ingredients to cleanse ExfoliateExfoliate Tighten Tighten Tone Tone HydrateHydrate Nourish Nourish

Clay-based masksClay-based masks Oil-absorbing cleansing masksOil-absorbing cleansing masks Have an exfoliating & astringent effectsHave an exfoliating & astringent effects Oily & combination skinOily & combination skin Makes large pores temporarily appear Makes large pores temporarily appear

smallersmaller soothingsoothing Antibacterial ingredientsAntibacterial ingredients

Cream masksCream masks Contain oils, emollients & humectantsContain oils, emollients & humectants Strong moisturizing effectStrong moisturizing effect Dry skinDry skin

Gel masksGel masks Sensitive or dehydrated skinSensitive or dehydrated skin Do not dry hardDo not dry hard Contain hydrators & soothing agentsContain hydrators & soothing agents Help plump surface cellsHelp plump surface cells Makes the skin look more supple & hydratedMakes the skin look more supple & hydrated

Alginate masksAlginate masks Seaweed basedSeaweed based Powder form mixed with water or serumsPowder form mixed with water or serums Dry to a rubberized textureDry to a rubberized texture Treatment Cream – facilitates change in Treatment Cream – facilitates change in

skin’s appearanceskin’s appearance Or serum applied under maskOr serum applied under mask Mask forms a seal that helps skin’s Mask forms a seal that helps skin’s

absorption of serum or treatment creamabsorption of serum or treatment cream Used only in salonsUsed only in salons

Paraffin Wax MasksParaffin Wax Masks Melted at little more than body temperatureMelted at little more than body temperature Cools to a candle-like textureCools to a candle-like texture Applied over treatment cream & gauzeApplied over treatment cream & gauze Eye pads may be applied to prevent wax Eye pads may be applied to prevent wax

from getting on eyebrows & lashesfrom getting on eyebrows & lashes

Modelage masksModelage masks Special crystals of gypsum – a plaster-like Special crystals of gypsum – a plaster-like

ingredientingredient Used with a treatment cream and gauzeUsed with a treatment cream and gauze Mixed with cold waterMixed with cold water Apply ¼’ thick layerApply ¼’ thick layer hardenshardens

Chemical reaction occursChemical reaction occurs Gradual increase to temperature of 105ºGradual increase to temperature of 105º Gradually cools downGradually cools down Setting time about 20 minutesSetting time about 20 minutes Follow mfg. directionsFollow mfg. directions

Heat increases blood circulationHeat increases blood circulation Beneficial for dry, mature skin – looks dull & Beneficial for dry, mature skin – looks dull &

lifelesslifeless Do not use on sensitive, capillary problems, oily Do not use on sensitive, capillary problems, oily

skin, blemishesskin, blemishes Can be heavy on faceCan be heavy on face Do not apply on lower neckDo not apply on lower neck Never use on clients with claustrophobiaNever use on clients with claustrophobia

Use of GauzeUse of Gauze Thin open-meshed fabric of loosely woven Thin open-meshed fabric of loosely woven

cottoncotton Holds ingredients onto face & keep from Holds ingredients onto face & keep from

sticking to hairs on facesticking to hairs on face

Client ConsultationClient Consultation

Designate a quiet areaDesignate a quiet area Write down all necessary informationWrite down all necessary information

Bulleted list pages 574 - 575Bulleted list pages 574 - 575

Record Record DateDate Type of service and/or treatment performedType of service and/or treatment performed Products usedProducts used Purchased productsPurchased products

Recommend services and products to Recommend services and products to benefit clientbenefit client

Client will be disappointed in no Client will be disappointed in no recommendations givenrecommendations given

They will go elsewhereThey will go elsewhere Best results achieved if home care Best results achieved if home care

regime is followedregime is followed Perform a thorough analysis of client’s Perform a thorough analysis of client’s

skinskin

Facial MassageFacial Massage

Massage-Massage- Manual or mechanical manipulation of the Manual or mechanical manipulation of the

body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain. absorption, and relieve pain.

FYI Box page 577FYI Box page 577 Focus on – page 726Focus on – page 726

Massage requires:Massage requires: Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiologyBasic knowledge of anatomy and physiology Firm sure touchFirm sure touch Flexible handsFlexible hands Quiet temperamentQuiet temperament Self-controlSelf-control

Keep hands softKeep hands soft File and shape nailsFile and shape nails Wrists and fingers flexibleWrists and fingers flexible Palms firm and warmPalms firm and warm

Basic Massage Basic Massage ManipulationsManipulations

Each manipulation applied in a certain Each manipulation applied in a certain way to achieve a certain end (result)way to achieve a certain end (result)

Impact of treatment:Impact of treatment: Amount of pressureAmount of pressure Direction of movementDirection of movement Duration of manipulationDuration of manipulation

Focus 0n & FYI – page 726Focus 0n & FYI – page 726

Direction of movementDirection of movement Insertion to the originInsertion to the origin

InsertionInsertion Portion of the muscle at the more moveable Portion of the muscle at the more moveable

attachmentattachment

OriginOrigin Portion of the muscle at the fixed attachmentPortion of the muscle at the fixed attachment

Massaging incorrectlyMassaging incorrectly Loss of resiliencyLoss of resiliency Sagging of skin and musclesSagging of skin and muscles

EffleurageEffleurage

Light continuous stroking movementLight continuous stroking movement Fingers – digital – small surfacesFingers – digital – small surfaces Palms – palmar – large surfacesPalms – palmar – large surfaces Slow rhythmic Slow rhythmic No pressureNo pressure Every massage begin and endEvery massage begin and end Soothing and relaxing effectsSoothing and relaxing effects

Used on:Used on: ForeheadForehead faceface ScalpScalp BackBack ShoulderShoulder NeckNeck ChestChest ArmsArms HandsHands

Hold hand looselyHold hand loosely Keep wrists and fingers flexibleKeep wrists and fingers flexible Curve fingers slightlyCurve fingers slightly Cushions of fingers touching skinCushions of fingers touching skin

PetrissagePetrissage

Kneading movementKneading movement Lifting, squeezing and pressing tissueLifting, squeezing and pressing tissue Light, firm pressureLight, firm pressure Deeper stimulation to muscles, nerves Deeper stimulation to muscles, nerves

and glandsand glands Improves circulationImproves circulation

Limited to back, shoulders, and armsLimited to back, shoulders, and arms Used on cheeks/jawline with light Used on cheeks/jawline with light

pinching movementspinching movements Pressure light but firmPressure light but firm Movements must by rhythmic – never Movements must by rhythmic – never

jerkyjerky

FullingFulling Tissue grasped firmlyTissue grasped firmly LiftedLifted Spread outSpread out

FrictionFriction Deep rubbing movementDeep rubbing movement Apply pressure with fingers/palm while Apply pressure with fingers/palm while

moving over an underlying structuremoving over an underlying structure Significant benefitSignificant benefit

circulation circulation Glandular activityGlandular activity

Scalp, arms, hands – heavier movementsScalp, arms, hands – heavier movements Face and neck – lighter circular Face and neck – lighter circular

movementsmovements

ChuckingChucking Grasping flesh firmly in one handGrasping flesh firmly in one hand Move hand up and down along boneMove hand up and down along bone

RollingRolling Pressing and twisting tissues in a fast back Pressing and twisting tissues in a fast back

and forth movementand forth movement

WringingWringing Hands placed on both sides of arm/legHands placed on both sides of arm/leg Working downwardWorking downward Twisting motion against bones in the Twisting motion against bones in the

opposite directionopposite direction

Tapotement/PercussionTapotement/Percussion

Short quick tapping, slapping and Short quick tapping, slapping and hacking movementshacking movements

Most stimulatingMost stimulating Applied with care and discretionApplied with care and discretion Tone musclesTone muscles Impart a healthy glow to area being Impart a healthy glow to area being

massagedmassaged

FacialFacial Light digital tappingLight digital tapping Fingers must be flexible to create an even Fingers must be flexible to create an even

force over treated areaforce over treated area

SlappingSlapping Wrists flexibleWrists flexible Light, firm, rapid slappingLight, firm, rapid slapping One hand follows the otherOne hand follows the other Lift flesh slightlyLift flesh slightly

HackingHacking Chopping movementsChopping movements Edges of handsEdges of hands Move alternately in fast, light, firm Move alternately in fast, light, firm

movementsmovements

Hacking and slapping used on:Hacking and slapping used on: Back, shoulders, arms, legsBack, shoulders, arms, legs

VibrationVibration Rapid shaking of the body partRapid shaking of the body part Balls of fingers pressed firmly on point of Balls of fingers pressed firmly on point of

applicationapplication Rapid muscular contractionRapid muscular contraction Highly relaxingHighly relaxing Applied over nerves and end of massageApplied over nerves and end of massage Stimulate blood circulationStimulate blood circulation Increase muscle toneIncrease muscle tone

Physiological Effects of Physiological Effects of MassageMassage

Thorough knowledge of structures Thorough knowledge of structures involvedinvolved MusclesMuscles NervesNerves Connective tissueConnective tissue Blood vesselsBlood vessels

FYI - page 728FYI - page 728

Every muscle has a motor pointEvery muscle has a motor point Point on the skin over the muscle where Point on the skin over the muscle where

pressure or stimulation will cause pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of the musclecontraction of the muscle

Location of motor points varies from Location of motor points varies from person to personperson to person

Differences in body structureDifferences in body structure

Relaxation is achieved Relaxation is achieved Light, firm, slow rhythmic movements Light, firm, slow rhythmic movements oror Very slow, light hand vibrations over motor Very slow, light hand vibrations over motor

points for a short time points for a short time oror Pause briefly over motor pointsPause briefly over motor points

Massage applied directly or indirectly Massage applied directly or indirectly influences the structures and functions of influences the structures and functions of the body the body

Immediate effects are first noticed on the Immediate effects are first noticed on the skinskin

Area being treated shows increased:Area being treated shows increased: CirculationCirculation SecretionSecretion NutritionNutrition ExcretionExcretion

BenefitsBenefits List page 729List page 729

Frequency of massage depends:Frequency of massage depends: Condition of skin or scalpCondition of skin or scalp Age of the clientAge of the client Condition being treatedCondition being treated

General ruleGeneral rule Weekly massageWeekly massage Accompanied by proper home careAccompanied by proper home care

Facial ManipulationsFacial Manipulations

Even tempo/rhythm - relaxationEven tempo/rhythm - relaxation Do not remove hands from area being Do not remove hands from area being

treatedtreated Feather offFeather off Feather back onFeather back on

State Regulatory Alert - page 732State Regulatory Alert - page 732

Facial TreatmentsFacial Treatments

Enjoyable and relaxing serviceEnjoyable and relaxing service Restful, stimulating experienceRestful, stimulating experience Regular facialsRegular facials

Noticeable improvement in skin toneNoticeable improvement in skin tone TextureTexture AppearanceAppearance

PreservativePreservative Maintains health of skinMaintains health of skin

CorrectiveCorrective Correct skin conditionsCorrect skin conditions

Treatments:Treatments: Increase circulationIncrease circulation Activate glandular activityActivate glandular activity Relax nervesRelax nerves Maintain muscle toneMaintain muscle tone Strengthen weak muscle tissuesStrengthen weak muscle tissues

Guidelines for facial treatmentsGuidelines for facial treatments Page 737Page 737 Inspect skin - Page 738Inspect skin - Page 738

Analysis determines:Analysis determines: What products to useWhat products to use Areas needing special attentionAreas needing special attention How much pressure to useHow much pressure to use What equipment to useWhat equipment to use

Special ProblemsSpecial Problems

Dry SkinDry Skin Insufficient flow of sebumInsufficient flow of sebum Infra-red ray lights – (3 - 5 minutes)Infra-red ray lights – (3 - 5 minutes) Milia - whiteheadsMilia - whiteheads

Oily SkinOily Skin Comedones – blackheads - hardened Comedones – blackheads - hardened

masses of sebum formed in ducts of masses of sebum formed in ducts of sebaceous glandssebaceous glands

Special notes for acne-Special notes for acne-prone skinprone skin

AcneAcne Disorder of the sebaceous glandsDisorder of the sebaceous glands Medical treatmentMedical treatment Work with doctor/dermatologistWork with doctor/dermatologist Wear gloves – contains infectious matterWear gloves – contains infectious matter

Acne medical careAcne medical care

Follow physician’s instructions for type Follow physician’s instructions for type and frequency of facialsand frequency of facials

Help with extraction treatmentsHelp with extraction treatments Assist in choosing proper home care Assist in choosing proper home care

products and make-upproducts and make-up Help client understand how to coordinate Help client understand how to coordinate

with home skin care programwith home skin care program

Hereditary Environmental factors Aggravated by:

Emotional stress Faulty diet

Diet for Acne

Foods high in: - tend to worsen condition Fat Starches sugars

Recommended: Well balanced diet Drinking plenty of water Healthful personal hygiene

Special Notes for Acne-Prone Skin

Unresponsive or severe cases – medical attention

Work with dermatologist Proper home care products and makeup Coordinate medications home care

program Topical medications - sensitive skin

more reactive

Consultation and Home Care

Most important factor in successful skin care program

Explain proper home care after first treatment

Focus –On pp. 739

Procedures Basic facial – 741 - 745

Caution box page 594

Dry Skin – 746 – 747 Service tip – pp. 747

Oily skin Pages 748 - 750 Caution Box & Service Tips - 750

Acne prone skin – pages 751 - 752

Aromatherapy

Therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health treatment

Improves efficacy of many skin care preparations

Benefits a person’s physical Emotional Mental Spiritual well-being

Cinnamon candle in winter – warm cozy Use oils lightly – tend to be overpowering Caution box page 740