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Symbol of Quality
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Page 1: Fabric Inspection

Symbol of Quality

Page 2: Fabric Inspection
Page 3: Fabric Inspection

We never compromise with the quality, this is We never compromise with the quality, this is the major and vital rule of Jinadasa Holding the major and vital rule of Jinadasa Holding because we strongly believe that to build a because we strongly believe that to build a good relationship with customers, to survive good relationship with customers, to survive with good reputation in this trade, and there is with good reputation in this trade, and there is no other way to make the quality goods as no other way to make the quality goods as per world class standard. Our fabric per world class standard. Our fabric inspection & lab team is ensured that no inspection & lab team is ensured that no garment will ship with minor defect to the garment will ship with minor defect to the customers. customers. To achieve the vision of quality, the FABRIC To achieve the vision of quality, the FABRIC INSPECTION/LABORATORY INSPECTION/LABORATORY DEPARTMENT monotonously managed by DEPARTMENT monotonously managed by accomplished professionals who check each accomplished professionals who check each and every lot and conform to the customers and every lot and conform to the customers recommended restriction. The following test recommended restriction. The following test is done by our inspection & lab team to is done by our inspection & lab team to ensure the quality.ensure the quality.

Page 4: Fabric Inspection

Visual inspection ( Fabric defect )Visual inspection ( Fabric defect )Fabric length & width Fabric length & width Color and shade (Shade variation)Color and shade (Shade variation)Weight ( GSM )Weight ( GSM )Shrinkage Shrinkage Skew ness / BowingSkew ness / BowingColor fastnessColor fastnessGarment/Label Durability Garment/Label Durability

Page 5: Fabric Inspection

Fabric InspectionFabric InspectionFabric supplier inspects the fabric before Fabric supplier inspects the fabric before sending the fabric to the fabric.sending the fabric to the fabric.Swing factory receive the reports of the Swing factory receive the reports of the above said check.above said check.Factory conducts 4 points inspection Factory conducts 4 points inspection system to check the fabricsystem to check the fabricFactory have the four fabric inspection Factory have the four fabric inspection m/cm/cequipped with variable speed control, equipped with variable speed control, overhead light, Yard meter counter and overhead light, Yard meter counter and over feeds.over feeds.Factory checks at least 10% Factory checks at least 10% -- 100% of 100% of bulk fabric.bulk fabric.Factory evaluate shade deviation against Factory evaluate shade deviation against standard color prior to cutting records are standard color prior to cutting records are available for fabric inspection. available for fabric inspection.

Page 6: Fabric Inspection

Precondition for inspection & testingPrecondition for inspection & testing

Approved LAB DIP/ HANGER Approved LAB DIP/ HANGER (A4Size,(A4Size, Style details, Fabric Style details, Fabric detailed,detailed, Authorized Signature with Authorized Signature with seal on the Face side) seal on the Face side) Style DetailsStyle Details (Style#, PI#, Po#, (Style#, PI#, Po#, Buyer, Cut & ProductionBuyer, Cut & Production Factory Factory && Other) Other) Garment Details (GMT type (sketch) Garment Details (GMT type (sketch) / Wash / Wash –– Unwashed/ Print/ EMB & Unwashed/ Print/ EMB & other)other)Supplier test report (Dimensional Supplier test report (Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage), all type Colour Stability (Shrinkage), all type Colour fastness, Skew ness/Bowing, Weight fastness, Skew ness/Bowing, Weight Determination & Other)Determination & Other)

Page 7: Fabric Inspection

4 Point System4 Point SystemIn this system, weIn this system, we should inspect at should inspect at least 10 % least 10 % -- 100% of the total rolls in 100% of the total rolls in the shipment.the shipment. Make sure to select at Make sure to select at least one roll or each color way.least one roll or each color way. The The defect classification we as follows.defect classification we as follows.

Size Defect Penalty 3 inches or less 1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 PointsOver 6 inches, but less than 9 3 PointsOver 9 inches 4 Points

Page 8: Fabric Inspection

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)

.A Hole carry 4 Point.

.4 Point for full width defect (A maximum of 4 points should be charged to one sqy yard. Also, note that only "major" defects are charged.)

Result Result Point GradePoint GradeAcceptable 0 < 10 AAcceptable 0 < 10 A

10 > 19 B10 > 19 B19 > 28 19 > 28 CC

RejectedRejected 28 > D28 > D

Cut with penal replacementCut with penal replacement

Page 9: Fabric Inspection

Major Defects:· Major woven & Knitted fabric defects include but are not limited toHoles, Slubs, Missing yarns, Yarn variation, Broken pick ,Miss pick, Miss end, Soiled yarns, Wrong yarn, Knot, Major dye or printing defects are out of register, Dye spots, Dye Patch, Machine stop, Shade bar , Color out or shading.

Minor defects:Crease Mark, Press mark, Crush mark, Fold mark, Dirty mark, Pulling, etc...

JointXFold MarkROil markLForeign yarnF

Weaving DefectWPull yarnQShade BareKKnotE

Knitting Defect VDouble PickPThick PlaceJPulingD

Crush MarkUDirty MarkOCrease MarkISlubsC

Press markTStop MarkNHoleHMiss PickB

Stain markSMiss end MDye PatchGBroken PickA

Page 10: Fabric Inspection

Acceptance Criterion & Calculation.Acceptance Criterion & Calculation..Over 40 points per 100 yards is the Rejected defect rate (Per a Roll) 40%..Over 28 points per 100 yards is the Rejected defect rate (Per delivery QTY) 28%.

Total points per 100sq ydsTotal Defect 36Actual length yds Actual Width Inch

X X 100 =

Example- :Total Yardage received -: 5400Total Inspected Yds -: 540 Actual Width Inch - : 60Total penalty points found in the 10% inspection: 250 points

Total points per 100sq yds250 36540 60”x x 100 = 27.77

27.77 points per 100 SQ yards grade “C “(because the allowance is 28 points per 100 SQ yards, this shipment would be acceptable.

Page 11: Fabric Inspection

Inspection Procedure1. Determine the amount to inspect percentage (%). (Lot, Batch)

10%5001 - >50001 - >……

10%2001 - 500020001 - 50000

10%1001 - 200010001 - 20000

10%501 - 10005001 - 10000

10%251 - 5002501 - 5000

12% - 14%150 - 3001001 - 2500

50%Not less than 500501 - 1000

100%5000- 500

Percentage%Inspection Qty YdsReceived Qty Yds

2. Select the rolls to inspect. 3. Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device. 4. Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the Start, Middle & end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the fabric. (Stop the inspection process every 15 yards and use the fabric to check for any shading problems). Also make sure to check the end of the rol1. 5. Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment. 6. Check that the roll contains the correct yardage & width as stated by the piece goods source. 7. Check for skewed & bowed fabric. 8. Mark any defects to the side with arrow sticker so that they can be easily found and noted. 9. Record any defects fabric inspection report (FIR) (JHFG/R-01 -01)

Page 12: Fabric Inspection

Shading (Shade segregation)Shading is an important defect to catch prior to production. The bundler has the responsibility to check for shade problems prior to allowing the bundles to be put into the line. Both rolls and cuts should be checked for shading problems.

•A 4 inch square swatch from every roll received should be cut. (It is important to obtain a sample from every roll so that the rolls are checked 100%.•All samples should be laid out and grouped by shade. This area must be well lit in order to properly shade the rolls.•For wash garment swatches are stitched together with patchwork (blanket) and washed according to specification also marked withthe above. Each swatch in the blanket has the roll number with the marked unit. Blankets checked by light box. •Rolls should be grouped together accordingly by shade. ( Shade segregation card & shade report) (JHFG-R-01-02 / JHFG-R-01-03)

Light Box -: D-65, CWF, TL 84, UV,

Page 13: Fabric Inspection

Fabric Shrinkage/Skewness/ Weight

• All goods are stored in one pallet.• All goods are covered• All tests are done before starting the bulk cutting.• Tested fabric represents all colors and batches.• We ensure the Fabric Shrinkage/Skewness/ Weight prior to going the bulk. (FTR)(JHFG - R-01-04)

Page 14: Fabric Inspection

Fabric Skewness TestFabric Skewness Test

Place the specimen on flat smooth work surface.Place the specimen on flat smooth work surface.Place the specimen Selling Face side up so previous marking are Place the specimen Selling Face side up so previous marking are visible visible and length direction of the specimen runs verticallyand length direction of the specimen runs verticallyIf using a standard or tape measure the Diagonal lines AC and BDIf using a standard or tape measure the Diagonal lines AC and BD

-- Start at point A measure the diagonal to point C. Record Result Start at point A measure the diagonal to point C. Record Result as ACas AC-- Start at point B measure the diagonal to point D. Record ResulStart at point B measure the diagonal to point D. Record Result as BD t as BD

Diagonal lineDiagonal line

Page 15: Fabric Inspection

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Fabric SkewnessFabric Skewness

Determine if the specimen has left or right hand skewnessDetermine if the specimen has left or right hand skewness******To avoid confusion over sign use, the word To avoid confusion over sign use, the word ““ LEFTLEFT”” or RIGHTor RIGHT”” should be stated on the report.should be stated on the report.

Calculation Calculation Skewness Skewness is calculated as follows: is calculated as follows:

Left Hand SkewResultant = ( + ) : BD < AC = Left Resultant = ( + ) : AC > BD = Left

%K = 2 (AC %K = 2 (AC –– BD) X 100BD) X 100(AC +BD)(AC +BD)

WHERE WHERE

% K = % SKEWNESS CHANGE% K = % SKEWNESS CHANGE

ACAC = DIAGONAL FROM POINTS A to C= DIAGONAL FROM POINTS A to C

BD = DIAGONAL FROM POINTS B to DBD = DIAGONAL FROM POINTS B to D

100 = VALUE MULTIPLIER TO CONVERT 100 = VALUE MULTIPLIER TO CONVERT RESULTANT INTO %RESULTANT INTO %

2 = MATHEMICAL CONSTANT2 = MATHEMICAL CONSTANT

Right Hand SkewResultant = ( - ) : BD > AC = Right Resultant = ( - ) : AC < BD = Right

If AC = BD then 0% Skewness or NO SKEW

Page 16: Fabric Inspection

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Dimension Stability (Shrinkage) TestDimension Stability (Shrinkage) TestCalculation Calculation

AverageAverage is calculated as follows: is calculated as follows:

ShrinkageShrinkage is calculated as follows:is calculated as follows:

A A = = ΣΣ (G (G NN))NN

WHERE WHERE A = AVERAGEA = AVERAGE

G G N N = INDIVIDUAL VALUE = INDIVIDUAL VALUE

N= TOTAL NUMBER OF READ TAKENN= TOTAL NUMBER OF READ TAKEN

%D = (M%D = (M11 –– MM22)X100)X100MM11

WHERE WHERE

% D = DIMENSION CHANGE% D = DIMENSION CHANGE

M M 1 1 = MEASUREMENT = MEASUREMENT BEFORE WASHBEFORE WASH

M M 22 = MEASUREMENT = MEASUREMENT AFTER WASHAFTER WASH100 = VALUE MULTIPLIER TO CONVERT 100 = VALUE MULTIPLIER TO CONVERT RESULTANT INTO %RESULTANT INTO %

Page 17: Fabric Inspection

Garment/Label DurabilityGarment/Label DurabilityAccording to buyers requirement we tested Garment/Label DurabiliAccording to buyers requirement we tested Garment/Label Durabilityty

Purpose and ScopePurpose and ScopeThis test method is for the determination of dimensional changesThis test method is for the determination of dimensional changes of of

garments when subjected to home laundering procedures commonly garments when subjected to home laundering procedures commonly used by consumers. Four washing temperatures, three agitation used by consumers. Four washing temperatures, three agitation cycles, two rinse temperatures and four drying procedures cover cycles, two rinse temperatures and four drying procedures cover the the common home care options available to consumers using current common home care options available to consumers using current laundering machines.laundering machines.

The dimensional changes of garments subjected to home launderingThe dimensional changes of garments subjected to home laundering care care procedures are measured using bench marks placed on designated procedures are measured using bench marks placed on designated areas of the garments. areas of the garments. Measured dimensional changes may be Measured dimensional changes may be affected by garment construction, tensions, sewing threads or traffected by garment construction, tensions, sewing threads or trims in ims in addition to fabric dimensional changeaddition to fabric dimensional change

PrinciplePrincipleThe dimensional changes of garment specimens subjected to home The dimensional changes of garment specimens subjected to home

laundering care procedures are measured using bench marks applielaundering care procedures are measured using bench marks applied d to the garment before launderingto the garment before laundering( DTR/LTR) ( DTR/LTR) (GMT (GMT --JHFGJHFG--RR--0101--05/ Label05/ Label--JHFGJHFG--RR--0101--0606))

Page 18: Fabric Inspection