Fabric design

Twill WeaveTwill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal line on the face of fabric. In a regular twill the diagonal line or twill line produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal.

Feature of Twill WeaveDiagonal line can be seen on the faced of the fabric.

Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right(Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-twill) corner.

Smaller repeat twill is(3)It means take at least end and three picks produce twill weave.

Three or more heald shaft are required for shedding.

Appearance it will design can be seen from both sides the fabric.

Diagonal lines run at angle vary between (15-75)Degree but in a continuous or regular twill is 45 degree.

Twill AngleTwill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on following factors.

Ratio between EPI and PPI.

Difference between warp and weft count.

Rate of advancement it interlacement warp and weft.

Classification of Twill WeaveAccording to direction of twill lines on the faced of fabric. 

i. Z- twill

ii. S -twill

According to the nature of twill weave i.Single warp

ii.Expanded twill

iii. Multiple twill

According to the face yarn

i.Warp twill

ii.Weft twill

iii.Double faced twill

Factor Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave: Character of weave i. Twill line of short float ii. Twill line of long float

Character of yarn i. Twill line of folded yarn ii. Twill line of single yarn iii. Coarser or soft twisted yarn iv. Finer and hard twisted yarn

Number of ends and pick per inch i. More EPI and PPI ii. Less EPI and PPI

Derivatives of Twill Weave:

There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow;

Broken twill.

Combined twill.

Diamond design.

Diaper design.

Diagonal design.

Elongated design.

Hearing bone twill.

Shaded twill.

Stepped twill.

Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave

Zigzag/waved/pointed Twill Weave: 

• This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist. According to reversing of direction there are two type of zigzag twill:

• Horizontal zigzag twill.

• Vertical zigzag twill.

Horizontal zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the warp yarn,it result a horizontal zigzag twill. Here the basic twill is extended in warp direction . Here the number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the number of weft. In horizontal zigzag twill pointed draft is used.

Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the weft yarn. it result a vertical zigzag twill. Here the basic twill is extended in weft direction. Here the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the number of warp. In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft is used

Hearing Bone Twill: These twill weaves will reversal direction of twill lines in a different manner as compared to that of waved twill.

At the points of reversing take place, lifts of warp ends exactly opposite, change from up to down or down to up.

In hearing bone twill straight draft is used.

There are two type of hearing bone design

Horizontal hearing bone twill Vertical hearing bone twill

Horizontal hearing bone twillWhen hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in warp direction horizontal hearing bone result in

Vertical hearing bone twill:When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in weft direction,horizontal hearing bone result in

Diamond Design:• It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the bans of zigzag twill principle. It is obtain by combining

a horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. So here in the repeat the number of both warp and weft thread are double then that in basic twill. Dimond design geometrical about there vertical and horizontal axis. In this weave pointed draft is obtained. To contract a diamond design at first the design repeat is selected.It the basic twill is 3 up 3 down,that is 6×6 insize,the repeat of design will be 12×12 insize. 

Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover etc

Diaper Design:This derivative of twill weave is created on the basis herring bone principle. This design is constructed by combining horizontal and vertical hearing bone twill.

In the repeat of a diaper design the number of warp and weft threads are two type more than that in its basic twill. So if the basic twill size is 8×8.Its diaper design repeat size will 16×16. In case of diaper design, Broken or straight draft is used Use: Towel,Bed Cover,Table Cover,Pillow Cover.

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