FA20CLUB Turbo Kit Install Guide

FA20CLUB TURBO KIT INSTALLATION GUIDE

1. We need to remove the front bumper, so turn your steering wheel all the way to oneside and remove the three plastic pop rivets at the lower portion of the fender splash

guard.

2. There is another plastic pop rivet located just beside the sidemarker that needs to beremoved.

3. The sidemarker itself needs to come out. Pull the inner fender liner away and try yourhardest to poke a screwdriver into one of the holes on the back of the sidemarker and pry.

Even after I got it out I am still confused as to why Subaru did it this way. Even theowners manual is very vague and the instructions make no sense. Good luck.

4. OK, now that you (hopefully) have the sidemarker out, there is a plastic pop rivetlocated directly above where it was mounted. This fixes the corner of the bumper to the

bottom of the fender, so it needs to come out.

5. There are three pop rivets centered under the front bumper. Remove them.

6. There are two 10mm bolts under there as well, one on each side. Out they go.

7. Two more plastic pop rivets attach the bumper to the splash guards at each corner ofthe car. All four of those need to be removed.

8. Now up top there are five 10mm bolts and a couple more pop rivets. Once you removethose the entire flat metal bar that holds the top of the bumper on will lift off.

9. To remove the bumper, firmly pull out on each corner and it will pop off.

Introduction: This guide will illustrate the basics of the BRZ/FR-S exhaust system as well asdemonstrate removal and replacement of all exhaust components.

Tools: The tools listed below are suggested for this task. Optional tools are noted.- Jack, jack stands or lift

- 3/8in drive ratchet- 3/8in extension

- 14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets- 10mm deep well socket (optional)

- Phillips screwdriver- 14mm wrench

- O2 sensor wrenchThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1053x785.

Tips: In low-torque applications, we like to use long tools (extensions, deep well sockets, etc) to keep from busting our knuckles worse than we already do.

Procedure:1. Begin by collecting your tools, safely jacking up your car and popping your hood. Consult your owner’s manual for preferred methods.

2. The first step will be to gain access to the entire exhaust system. This requires the removal of both panels below the car. We’ll remove the aluminum skid plate first. Use a flathead screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm socket along with your ratchet and extensions to remove six (6) plastic clips, four (4) 10mm bolts and eight (8) 12mm bolts. Use your screwdriver to pop the center part of each clip up about 1/4in before pulling the entire clip out. When you’re on your last bolt or two, be ready for the plate to fall. It’s not too heavy, but it can be sharp.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1053x788.

3. Next, remove the seven (7) 10mm bolts holding the second underbody panel to the chassis. Set both aside.


4. Now that the entire exhaust system is exposed, take a minute to identify each piece. Starting at the motor, the components of the system are exhaust manifold > crosspipe > forward midpipe > aft midpipe > axle back/muffler. The catalytic convertors are located in the exhaust manifold and forward midpipe. The forward midpipe also houses a resonator, not to be confused with the catalytic convertor.

5. These steps can be done in a number of difference sequences. We picked the one that seems to be the easiest. The first connection that we’ll loosen is between the crosspipe and the forward midpipe. Use a 14mm wrench to loosen and remove the two (2) bolts. Conveniently, there are weld nuts on the back side, so just be sure to put the bolts someplace where they won’t be lost.



6. Next, remove the 14mm bolt holding the forward midpipe to its hanger.


7. Using your 14mm socket and wrench, remove the two (2) 14mm spring bolts connecting the forward midpipe to the aft midpipe. Once these are loosened, they’ll no longer be in tension, so no need to worry about them flying away.


8. Next, we’ll remove the muffler from the car. The muffler is held on by two (2) 14mm bolts and four (4) rubber hangers, one on each corner of the muffler. Start by removing the bolts and then remove the muffler from its hangers, one at a time. I find that twisting the rubber hanger off of the muffler is the best way to get it started. Be ready when you’ve got it loose, as the muffler is a bit heavy.



9. Now that you’ve got the muffler and the forward midpipe off the car and set aside, removing the aft midpipe is as easy as pulling it off of its hanger and setting it aside as well.


10. The exhaust manifold and crosspipe are the two remaining components in the exhaust system. We’ll tackle the crosspipe first. This smaller pipe runs over the subframe and is a bit tricky to remove. First, remove the two (2) 14mm nuts connecting the crosspipe to the exhaust manifold.


11. Now that the crosspipe is loose, we’ve found it easiest to remove the heatshields from the pipe in order to snake it out without damage to the finish on the firewall and subframe. The heatshields are held on by four (4) 10mm bolts and a clamp with a single 10mm nut. Remove the fasteners along with the four heat shields.


12. With the crosspipe shields removed, the crosspipe has room to be snaked out. It’ll take some trial and error, but trust me, it’ll come out. You’re going to want to pull back and up on the pipe whileturning it slightly counterclockwise. We’ll be putting together a video as well that will help. Once that’s out, go ahead and set it aside.

13. The next (and last) step is to remove the exhaust manifold. This is actually pretty straight forward. First, disconnect the two O2 sensor wire connectors in the engine bay. You’ll also need to use a screwdriver to pry the tree clips free so that the sensors can be completely removed. Some people will leave these in and spin the sensors out with the wire still attached. We prefer not to stress the connections like that. For re-assembly, not that the longer sensor harness goes to the rear-most sensor and the connections are color coded



14. Next, use your O2 sensor wrench or socket to remove both sensors from the exhaust manifold. If you’ve disconnected the harnesses from the car, this step is optional, as you’re able to remove theexhaust manifold with the sensors still installed.



15. You’ll need to use your ratchet, extension and 14mm socket to remove the six (6) nuts. Be careful when you’re close to the end, as this piece has some weight to it. Once this is removed, you’re all done (or halfway done, at least).


NOW THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED MOST OF THE ESSENTIAL PIECES LETS GETS STARTED. FIRST THING YOU WILL WANT TO DO IS RAISE THE VEHICLE UP IN THE AIR EITHER USING A LIFT OR A JACK AND SET OF JACK STANDS. BE SURE IF WORKING ON THE GROUND WITH JACK STANDS TO SECURE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND PLACE THE JACK STANDS CORRECTLY.

ONCE THE VEHICLE IS UP IN THE AIR LETS REMOVE THE OIL PAN. BEGINE BY DRAINING YOUR ENGINE OIL. YOU WILL NEED EITHER A PAN REMOVAL TOOL OR A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER AND A HAMMER. FIRST USING YOUR WRATCHET AND 10MM SOCKET TO REMOVE AND THE BOLTS FROM THE OUTER EDGE OF THE OIL PAN. USE THE HAMMER TO INSERT THE SCREW DRIVER IN BETWEEN THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE OIL PAN. USE THE HAMMER TO PUSH THE SCREW DRIVER AROUND THE OIL ANS SEALING EDGE TO BREAK THE SEAL. PRY GENTLY AS TO NOT BEND THE PAN.

NOW THAT THE OIL PAN IS OFF YOU CAN INSTALL THE SUPPLIED OIL PAN. PLEASE USING AMPLE SILICONE TO PREVENT ANY LEAKS.

NEXT LETS REMOVE THE FRONT CRASH BEAM/BUMPER SUPPORT.

AFTER YOU REMOVE THE CRASH BEAM YOU WILL NEED A CUTTING TOOL OF SOME SORT TO NOT THE BEAM ON THE BACK SIDE TO MAKE CLEARANCE FOR THE INTERCOOLER HOT SIDE INLET. BEGINE BY LINING UP THE INTERCOOLER AND CENTERING IT ON THE BUMPER SUPPORT. YOU WILL WANT TO NOTCH THE BEAM ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE INTERCOOLER, SILICONE HOSE & CLAMP TO CLEAR.

AFTER YOU COMPLETE THIS PROCESS AND LOUNT THE INTERCOOLER USING THE SUPPLIED SELF TAPPING SCREWS YOU CAN REINSTALL THE CRASH BEAM. YOU WILL ALSO NOW NEED TO TRIM THE PASSENGER SIDE PLASTIC TO ALLOW FOR THE COLD SIDE CHARGE PIPE TP CLEAR.

LET REMOVED THE FACTORY OIL SWITCH FOUND HERE. THE SWITCH IS THE UNIT WITH THE SINGLE WORE SPADE TYPE CONNECTOR. UNSCREW THE OIL SWITCH AND INSERT THE BSPT-TO-NPT ADAPTER FITTING INCLUDING WITH YOUR OIL SUPPLY KIT.

NEXT SCREW IN THE OIL TEE FITTING INTO THE ADAPTER. BE SURE TO HOLD THE ADAPTER PREVIOUSLY INSTALLED WITH A WRENCH WHILE THREADING THE TEE FITTING AS TO NOTH OVER TIGHTEN ENTHER FITTING.

YOUR INSTALLING OIL SUPPLY SHOULD LOOK LIKE THE FOLLOWING IMAGE

NEXT WE CAN INSTALL THE TURBO MANIFOLD COMPONENTS. YOU WILL INSTALL THE HEADER IN THE REVERSE ORDER OF HOW THE FACTORY ONE WAS REMOVED. PLEASE DONT FORGET TO INSTALL THE FACTORY EXHAUST GASKETS. BOLT THE TURBO MANIFOLD BACK ON AND YOU CAN MOVE ONTO INSTALLING THE SECONDARY PIPE.

ONCE THE SECONDARY PIPE IN INSERTED INTO THE VBAND CLAMP DONT FULLY TIGHTEN THE CLAMP JUST YET UNTIL EVERYTHING IS LINES UP. THE MANIFOLD STUDS ARE ALREADY INSERTED INTO THE TURBO FLANGE FOR YOU FYI. PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE TURBO YOU WILL WANT TO ROUTE THE OIL FED LINE FROM THE TEE AS WELL AS INSTALL THE WASTEGATE. THE WASTEGATE IS ALREADY SET WITH THE PROPER SPRING RATE BUT WE ADVISE YOU TO DOUBLE CHECK PRIOR TO INSTALLING IT ONTO THE CAR FOR YOUR VEHICLES SAFETY.

FOR THOSE NOT USING THE BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID YOU WILL WANT TO CONNECTTHE LOWER HAVE OF THE WASTEGATE TO THE COMPRESSOR COVER OF THE TURBO. PLEASE BE SURE TO INSERT THE NECESSARY PLUGS INTO THE OPEN PORTS ON THE WASTEGATE PRIOR TO INSTALL. WE HAVE TAPPED THE COVER AND ALREADY

INSERTED A HOSE BARB FITTING FOR YOU. FOR THOSE USING THE BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID PLEASE REFER TO THE SOLENOID INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS AT THIS POINT FOR PROPER LINE ROUTING.

NEXT YOU CAN INSTALL THE TURBO CHARGER. KEEP IN MIND YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO CLOCK THE CENTER SECTION OF THE TURBO TO POINT THE OIL INLET/OUTLET STRAIGHT UP/DOWN. TO DO THIS YOU NEED TO LOOSEN THE BOLTS ONBOTH THE COMPRESSOR AND TURBINE SIDE OF THE TURBO. FIRST MOUNT THE OIL DRAIN FLANGE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TURBO. USING THE SUPPLIED OIL DRAIN GASKET AND BOLTS. NEXT INSERT THE OIL DRAIN FITTING INTO THE TURBO AND ANGLE IT TOWARDS THE HEADLIGHT ON THE DRIVER SIDE SO YOUR DRAIN LINE WILLEASILY CLEAR THE WASTEGATE. YOU CAN AT THIS POINT ATTACH THE OIL DRAIN LINETO THE TURBO. THIS END WILL BE THE END WITH THE 45 DEGREE HOSE END. THE 90 DEGREE END WILL ATTACH TO THE OIL PAN.

FINISHED PRODUCT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THE FOLLOWING IMAGE

IF YOU ARE HAVING ISSUES LINE UP THE CHAR HOUSING OF THE TURBO PLEASE LOOSEN THE 13MM BOLTS ON BOTH THE TURBINE AND COMPRESSOR SIDES SO THAT THE COVERS CAN BE ROTATED INTO PLACE.

ONCE THE HARD WORK IS DONE YOU CAN NOW INSTALL THE DOWNPIPE AND BOLT IT TO YOUR FACTORY OR AFTERMARKET OVER PIPE. PLEASE DONT FORGET THE GASKET.

NEXT YOU WILL SIMPLE HAVE TO INSTALL THE CHARGE PIPES. INSERT THE HOT SIDE PIPE ABOVE THE RADIATOR AND MOUNT IT TO THE INTERCOOLER INLET USING THE 2.5” SILICONE COUPLER AND SUPPLIED HOSE CLAMPS. THE TURBO OUTLET WILL MOUNT TO THE CHARGE PIPE USING THE SUPPLIED 2”-2.5” SILICONE HOSE WITH SUPPLIED CLAMPS.

YOU CAN SEE THE TURBO POINTING FORWARD ABOVE THE RADIATOR IN THIS IMAGE.

NEXT YOU CANMOUNT THE UPPER CHARGE PIPE TO THE THROTTLE BODY. THIS TUBE ALSO CARRIED THE BLOW OFF VALVE. WHICH CAN BE INSTALLED AT THIS TIME. YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE SUPPLIED VACUUM TEE AND TAP INTO THE VACUUM LINES ON THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD FOR A BOV PRESURE SOURCE. NEXT REMOVE THE MAF SENSOR FROM EITHER YOUR INTAKE OR FACTORY AIR BOX AND INSTALL IN THE CHARGE PIPE. THIS IS THE PIPE WITH THE MAF FLANGE ATTACHED. YOU WILL NEED THE 3” SILICONE HOSE & CLAMPS TO ATTACH TH ETHROTTLE BODY. THE OTHER END OF THE CHARGE PIPE WILL USE THE 2.5”-3” SILICONE HOSE AND CLAMPS. THE LOWER CHARGE PIPE THE THE FINAL PIPE TO BE INSTALLED TO THE INTERCOOLER.

THE FINAL STEPS WILL BE TO ATTACH THE OTHER END OF THE OIL DRAIN LINE TO YOUR OIL PAN AND TIGHTED. YOU WILL ROUTE THIS LINE ABOVE THE RUNNERS OF THE TURBO MANIFOLD.

YOU WILL NOW BE ABLE TO INSTALL YOUR CHOSEN INTAKE TUBE PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE FRONT BUMPER. IF USING THE COLD AIR VERSION YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE WASHER BOTTLE AND ROUTE THE TUBE UNDER THE HEADLIGHT. YOU CAN USE THE IMAGE ABOVE FOR THOSE WHO HAVE CHOSEN THE REMOTE LOCATION.

TurboBOVWastegateOil Feed LineOil Drain Line

Oil Drain GasketOil Drain FlangeOil Feed Flange ADAPTEROil Drain FittingsWater Cooled Fittings OPTIONALOil Feed TeeOil Feed Fitting 3

Turbo Inlet GasketTurbo Air FilterManifold Studs/NUTS3” DOWNPIPE

Oil Pan Fitting OR OIL PAN

Hoses

X1 2-2.5”X1 2.5-3”X1,2.75”X2 2.5”X1 3”

Clamps X10 2.5” X5 3”

TURBO MANIFOLD

2.5" V-Band CLAMP2.5" ElbowTURBO SECONDARY PIPEExhaust Wrap3" V-Band CLAMP

Intercooler & BRACKETS

Intercooler Piping4PIECES INCLUING INTAKE PIPE

Dump Tube

EXTERNAL WASTEGATE:

BOOST SOURCE: PORT 1 (TEE WASTEGATE BOTTOM/BOOST SOURCE LINE)

WASTEGATE TOP: PORT2

NOT INCLUDED:

5/16” Vacuum Hose 4-6ft

Vacuum Block Optional*

Vacuum Tee for Brake Booster Line

1/8” Tap for Compressor Cover Boost Fitting Optional*

FA20CLUB Turbo Kit Install Guide

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